edible SOUTH SHORE®
Number 6 Winter 2009/2010 Celebrating the Abundance of Southeastern Massachusetts, Season by Season
Hope On Earth Local Holiday Bounty Gray’s Grist Mill Wood Fired Ovens Member of Edible Communities
19th
Annual
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edible South Shore contents
2
Grist for the Mill
4
Contributors
6
edible Notables
8
food for Thought Winter’s Challenge
10 12 14
20 26
by Paula Marcoux
by Mary Blair Petiet
edible Difference Hope On Earth by Marjorie R. Williams edible Community Bioneers by the Bay by Marjorie R. Williams
fresh & Local mmm Maple Syrup
by Noelle Armstrong
edible Yesteryear Gray’s Grist Mill by Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely
edible Traditions Enjoying Local Bounty for the holiday season by S. Terry Vandewater
edible Backyard Fired With Enthusiasm
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Winter 2009 / 2010
16
®
by Paula Marcoux
liquid Assets Jim’s Organic Coffee by Kate Strassel
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edible Environment Greener Kind of Clean by Rachel Vidoni
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Advertisers’ Directory Front Cover Photo: Parsley overwinters in clochiére. Table of Contents Photo: Sap bucket at Matfield Maple Farm in West Bridgewater.MA
Grist for the Mill
edible SOUTH SHORE® Publisher & Editor Laurie Hepworth
Co-Publisher/Art Director Michael Hart
Sales & Marketing “It is around the table that friends and family understand best the warmth of being together.”
- An old Italian proverb
Julie Gillis Williams
Copy Editor Sarah Kelley
T
his is such a special proverb. Not only do I need to slow down to read it and absorb it, it also reminds me to slow down and appreciate family, friends, and traditions. What can I say about this special time of year that hasn’t already been said? Except to remind our readers (and myself ) that taking the time to be with loved ones is the heart of the holidays, and that traditions––no matter how small––really do matter. Traditions create that warm spot in your heart, and bring that faint smile to your face, when you read this proverb and think about your own special times. As a fellow foodie, I would imagine that many of your own traditions and warm memories revolve around food. In this issue I have asked our contributors to share with us a holiday food memory and have published their memories in place of their usual bios on page 4. I am grateful that they took the time to share their memories, and I think you’ll be able to feel the love, warmth, and humor between the lines. One of my own favorite holiday food memories revolves around my mother making condensed milk pudding. She would spend hours (some years it seemed like days) boiling cans of condensed milk; after all, we each had to have our own can or fierce bickering would ensue. Every year my mother would complain about how long it took to make the pudding, and every year we all whined incessantly until she gave in and made it again. This was part of the tradition as well. It was a special rite of passage when a boyfriend or girlfriend was finally included in the tradition and received his or her own can; it was not an honor that was bestowed lightly and you knew you were finally part of the family when you got your own. I haven’t made the pudding myself. Since my mother’s passing I’ve read some cautionary advice about the potential for the cans to explode while boiling, and I haven’t had the courage. But nonetheless this memory reminds me that food is so much more than just something to eat. I’ll leave you with two additional quotes that are much more eloquent than I:
“There is a communion of more than bodies when bread is broken and wine is drunk.” - MFK Fisher
“We should look for someone to eat and drink with before looking for something to eat and drink...” Cheers!
- Epicurus
Food Editor Paula Marcoux
Contributors Noelle Armstrong Kezia Bacon-Bernstein Paula Marcoux Mary Blair Petiet Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely Kate Strassel S. Terry Vandewater Rachel Vidoni Marjorie R. Williams
Photography Michael Hart Paula Marcoux Carole Topalian Photo Credit: © Michael Hart (unless noted otherwise)
Published By Hart Design LLC 15 Evergreen Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 582-1726 info@ediblesouthshore.com www.ediblesouthshore.com Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. Printed on recycled paper.
Laurie Hepworth
edible South Shore® is published quarterly by Hart Design LLC. Telephone: (781) 582-1726
Distribution is throughout Plymouth & Bristol Counties of Southeastern Massachusetts and nationally by subscription. All Rights Reserved. Subscription Rate is $32 annually. Published seasonally, Spring (March), Summer (June), Fall (August) and Winter (November). Please call to inquire about advertising rates, deadlines and subscription information or email us at: info@ediblesouthshore.com
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No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2009 All Rights Reserved
Buy Fresh, Buy Local! At the Market, we proudly support local businesses. Here are some of the local products we carry:
Marguerite’s
OPEN
fresh ingredients fresh air fresh food
Monday - Thursday 7am - 8pm Friday & Saturday 7am -8:30pm SUNDAY CLOSED
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778 Main Road Westport, Massachusetts
margueritesrestaurant.com
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• Fine Wine • Beer • Liquor • Cigars • Lottery •
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(781) 422-9999
•www.uncorkedonline.com• www.ediblesouthshore.com
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Contributors
Holiday Memories Noelle Armstrong
Paula Marcoux
My favorite holiday memory is of listening to holiday albums and reading stories with my brother Ed around the Christmas tree, drinking hot cocoa, and enjoying my mother’s amazing homemade banana bread and cream cheese. Not very holistic, but oh so good. I still love to do that with my kids—it doesn’t matter how old you are, we are all kids inside.
One long-ago Twelfth Night, I closed out the holiday season by playing out a Gingerbread Firebomb Scenario in the family fireplace. The homemade, once-elegant Victorian went up with surprising vigor and alacrity, billowing acrid molasses smoke, followed by Crisco-fueled flames, out the chimney and windows (where hapless gingerbread men, their frosting mouths in Os of panic, raised their stubby, handless arms for rescue). My siblings and parents were impressed, and The Gingerbread Anarchist has been remembered fondly ‘round the Marcoux punchbowl each year since.
Writing is only one of my jobs—I am also a yoga teacher. Back in December 2001, one of my longtime students, Fahy Bygate of Duxbury, arrived at class with a heaping platter of homemade Christmas cookies—at least 15 varieties. She had spent the past month baking and freezing them. After class, we all dug in. Thanks to Fahy’s generosity, we have made this a cherished annual tradition in my yoga classes. The selection changes somewhat from year to year, but the cookies are always delicious. Mary Blair Petiet A day before Christmas, it was wonderful to rake oysters with my father, plucking them like jewels from the ocean floor, the wind blowing while we were up to our thighs in frigid sea water, the thin film of our waders our only protection from the briny cold of the holiday ocean. After reverently cleaning the shells, half frozen ourselves, we took our haul home and put them in the refrigerator. On Christmas morning we would make oyster stew according to our old family recipe and later we would eat the rest on the halfshell before dinner. Our hours in the cold water were rewarded by the warmth of our Christmas tradition each year.
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Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely As a curious little girl I discovered among the wrapped presents under the Christmas tree a small container of something smelling delicious. Of course I had to investigate, then taste, and taste again…until it was all gone. I never knew if my parents noticed. Later I learned that it was chicken liver paté and that my druthers lay not with candy canes and sugar plums but with the savory foods that I continue to love. Kate Strassel For as long as I can remember, I have looked forward to Christmas Day dinner and my mother’s carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. Her recipe, taken from a cookbook put out by Avon in 1983, does not call for nuts, raisins, pineapple, or coconut— which is probably why I loved it so much as a kid—yet there is nothing plain Jane about this cake. It is extremely moist and bursting with sweet grated carrots (which my mom insists must be grated on a box grater; pre-shredded carrots are too dry, and a food processor does not produce a fine enough grate), and the thick layer of slightly tangy cream cheese frosting perfectly compliments the spicy sweetness of the cake. I would eat the leftover cake from Christmas for breakfast the next day—partly because I couldn’t resist it, but mostly because I didn’t want my younger brother to have the last piece.
Photo by Carole Topalian
Kezia Bacon-Bernstein
S. Terry Vandewater Our favorite holiday meal growing up was “Mush.” It was (and still is) the best holiday leftover, ever. My mother melted butter in a skillet, added turkey, stuffing, and gravy, mixed it all around... and there it was, Mush. Served with her amazing creamed onions and a little cranberry sauce, Mush is a family tradition that three generations continue to devour. Rachel Vidoni As a child, holiday meals wouldn’t have held such delectable memories without my grandmother’s famed cauliflower casserole. As an adult I wanted to recreate it for holidays I would miss with my family, and grandma shared her recipe. Cream cheese, milk, and steamed cauliflower, topped with toasted cracker crumbs. That’s it. Perhaps not an epicurean masterpiece, but for me, a mouthwatering symbol of holidays shared with my grandmother. Marjorie R. Williams My sister, who admittedly is not much of a cook, once made cranberry sauce with raw cranberries and no sweetener. She dropped it off several hours before our holiday dinner and left. When my sister-in-law and I tasted it, we squealed and spit it out. It was awful! We decided to substitute our own cranberry sauce and put it in my sister’s bowl, hoping she’d never notice because she had told us she didn’t even like cranberry sauce and wouldn’t eat it. But while we were dumping out her relish and pouring ours in, we dropped her bowl and it broke into smithereens. We had to tell her what we’d done. She hasn’t contributed a dish to our holiday meal ever since.
Join our discussion on Facebook: What are your favorite holiday food memories?
www.ediblesouthshore.com
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edible Notables by Paula Marcoux
Can Plan Events
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Visit www.ediblesouthshore.com for quick links to Facebook, Twitter, and our email newsletter.
Join our discussion on Facebook: What would you suggest for possible upcoming events?
New Year brings All-Natural Eatery
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eter and Madeline Hauser, residents of Marshfield’s Green Harbor village, intend to revitalize a little part of downtown with their new take-out/eat-in restaurant, Anna’s Country Kitchen. Their emphasis on high quality local ingredients and their commitment to fair-trade and organic sourcing whenever possible bode well for a healthy and tasty option for folks who find themselves in Marshfield for breakfast, lunch, or early dinner. Highlights of Anna’s planned menu include classic deli sandwich offerings (with on-the-spot prepared meats and gourmet pickle bar!), Green Harbor-sourced seafoods, and organic-egg omelets and house-made hashes. Their bagels are freshly “imported” from New York. (edible South Shore looks forward to sampling but can’t help wondering, “Where is our regional bagel bakery? Anyone? A great bagel need not be made only in New York!”) Otherwise, Anna’s is committed to purchasing from Massachusetts businesses and generally bans preservatives, additives, and other industrial evils from its offerings.
Beat the Blight
I
f your tomatoes looked like this––stricken with Late Blight (Phytophthora infestans)––you’re probably wondering what you should be doing to secure a blight-free garden for next year. The good news is that the organism that causes the disease can only survive in living plant tissue, and by the time you read this, any tomato tissues that survived the Late Blight will be dead from frost. Apparently, seeds will not carry the pathogen over the winter, so it’s safe to save them to plant next year. You needn’t worry about your stakes or trellises. The place to be vigilant is the compost heap, where temperatures could conceivably be too warm to freeze, yet too cool to kill the spores with heat. The key is building a pile with a mix of green and dry inputs, and then turning and aerating to keep the temperature up (decomposition releases heat!). If that seems like too much work, just leave the vines where they’ll freeze solid, or till the whole mess down shallowly. Cleaning up after potatoes requires more diligence, since the tubers are designed to over-winter under the soil, long after the other plant tissues are dead and gone. Even the most careful potato-digger misses a few little ones; it is imperative to pull up and dispose of any resulting volunteers next year, because they could well carry Late Bight from ’09 into ’10. If you keep your potatoes for seed, inspect them closely for signs of blight before storage and again before planting. And watch out for and destroy any potatoes––even if you bought them in the grocery store–– sprouting in the compost.
Anna’s Country Kitchen At The Shops at Ocean’s Gate Ocean Street, Marshfield, MA 02050
Next spring, choose tomato seedlings and seed potatoes from reputable growers. The UMass Extension likes the tomato varieties ‘Mountain Magic,’ ‘Plum Regal,’ and ‘Legend’ and the ‘Elba’ potato for Late Blight-resistance and suggests including them among your selection just to be on the safe side. It’s worth noting that many gardeners and local farmers I spoke to had decent luck with cherry or grape tomatoes even during the worst of the infestation.
Look for updates at www.annascountrykitchen.com
www.umassvegetable.org/lateblightalertfortomatoandPotato.html
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Photo by Paula Marcoux
dozen participants chopped, sliced, brined, and boiled a September evening away at the well-appointed Dartmouth Grange Kitchen. When the vinegar fumes had cleared, everyone took home hot jars of bread-and-butter pickles and apple jelly, as well as a newfound confidence in their pickling and preserving potential. Did you miss out on the first of our many hands-on events? Want to know what goes on between quarterly issues? Join the edible South Shore community online by signing up for the email newsletter and following eSS on Facebook. Winter workshops and events are shaping up now!
edible Update
Fair Haven
for
by Mary Blair Petiet
Chicks?
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eaders of the winter 2008-2009 issue of edible South Shore will remember the story of the Vliet family in Fairhaven and their struggle with the town over their right to keep their flock of chickens. On October 26, 2009, Superior Court Justice Thomas F. McGuire denied the Vliets’ motion to overturn the Town of Fairhaven Board of Health’s denial of their permit to keep 12 laying hens on their property. They were instructed to remove the birds immediately, so they relocated the birds to a property that is about 1/10th of a mile from theirs. The Vliets state that they are deeply saddened by the Court’s ruling and find it very difficult to avoid feeling singled out. They are gathering support for a change to the Town’s bylaws, with the hope that likeminded residents of the community of Fairhaven can make it legal and acceptable for residents to keep a few hens on their property.
In from the Cold
M
ark your calendars––the Plymouth Farmers’ Market is going year ‘round! The third Thursday of every month, December through May, will find the farmers and foodmakers you’ve come to rely upon setting up their wares in the Henry Hornblower Visitor Center at Plimoth Plantation (137 Warren Avenue). For those of you who haven’t tried web ordering yet, this is the perfect time to take some of the guesswork out of holiday shopping. Preorder your provisions––veggies, meat, poultry, cheese––as well as gifts like hot sauce, honey, and jam. At press time, details were still emerging, but get yourself up-to-date at: www.plymouthfarmersmarket.org Rumor has it that a winter market is forming in North Attleboro as well. We will try to stay on top of the breaking news––check www.ediblesouthshore.com for updates.
Littlenecks Fresh and Local Dining in South Weymouth
C
hatting with diners at the bar of the newly opened Littlenecks Bar and Grill, edible South Shore discovered that Weymouthites are pretty pleased to have a non-chain restaurant option. Colleen McGrory, a local who has long made do with slim pickin’s in the close-to-home dining department, seemed quite buoyed up by her first trial of “Progressive Ocean Cuisine,” as the restaurant’s owners dub their style of cookery. She and her husband clearly enjoyed their Asian-inflected meals, and, she said, “…can’t wait to come back and explore the menu further. It was tough deciding what to order because so many dishes looked so interesting.” Other diners were equally pleased with the freshness of the seafood and produce on their plates. George Dellas, the General Manager, explained that management’s deepest commitment is to the freshest seafood, purchased locally daily, or flown in by Honolulu Fish Company. (Naturally, edible South Shore hopes that diners will prefer local and sustainably harvested species to Pacific fish and their heavy carbon “finprint.”) Mim, the young sushi chef ruling over Littlenecks expansive sushi bar, was also enthused about the exacting freshness standards management supports; he makes his selections personally at the fish market each morning, he said. Chef/owner Tony DiRienza brings his commitment to the fresh and local with him from his first venture, the successful Waterfront Grille in New Bedford. Diners in edible South Shore territory can only hope he’ll pull it off again here…and then once again, next summer, when he is slated to open yet another eatery in Padanaram, South Dartmouth. Littlenecks Bar and Grill 1073 Main Street South Weymouth, MA 02190 (781) 340-5624 www.littlenecksgrill.com
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food for Thought Winter’s Challenge: Eating Locally During the Cold Months
by Mary Blair Petiet
I
n New England, it is easy to eat our fill locally from late spring through first frost. But when the first chills of autumn are felt, when gardens and farms provide their last sustenance, when local markets close until next year, and fields sleep under blankets of snow, locavores face their biggest challenge: how to continue sourcing healthy, locally grown fare in the dead of a New England winter? The solution: locavores, look to your kitchens! Every kitchen has the capacity to function as a preserving facility all through the growing season. Canning, freezing, dehydrating, and even smoking can help you stock your larder for winter with what seems superfluous in summer. Look to books, the internet, and local classes to learn the age-old art of safely putting up food. A cupboard full of home-preserved deliciousness from last fall’s harvest equals a cozy feeling as the snow comes down!
However, if you missed the opportunity to capture summer’s bounty, concentrate on what is available today. Some winter produce has great storage capacity and can simply be put aside with little or no preparation. Find a cool (around 50 degrees), dark, dry spot in your home and experiment with storing root vegetables, onions, garlic, and winter squash. An ancient, lowtech method of saving potatoes is to bury them in a hole in the ground—below the frost line—and remove as needed. Home gardeners can also keep rows of hardy winter greens, such as kale, growing into the cold months. Just snip these frost-resistant plants when needed to keep leafy greens in your early winter mix. Better yet, invest in small cold frame greenhouses, which shelter vegetables from low temperatures while maximizing the winter’s sun. Continue to shop locally during the winter months. How on Earth: The Store, in Mattapoisett, offers local chicken and other meat products throughout the winter months and also sells locally grown potatoes and onions through December. Margie Baldwin, the store’s owner, acknowledges that it is hard to find local greens from December to March. Chef Martha Stone, of Martha’s Stone Soup in Plymouth, concurs and advises us to plan ahead carefully and to reset our expectations. For example, don’t seek out sweet peppers in January as winter is not their season. Instead eat your own preserved peppers or seek out locally made preserves, such as Donna Blischke’s delicious organic products, grown and processed right on her Carver farm, Web of Life.
CELEBRATION DAYS!
CAKES • PIES • DESSERTS
265 Walnut Plain Road Rochester, MA 02770
508.763.4905
Holiday Menus on the Web:
www.theartisankitchen.com 8 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Sources
Support the beginnings of the local winter market movement, starting this year in Plymouth (see Notables). For a great day trip, try the big winter market in Pawtucket, Rhode Island. Stocking up when you have the chance is key for easy and convenient meal prep at home. As New Englanders gain appreciation for fresh, local produce, there’s a new demand for year-round production. Currently, local farmers face a conundrum: the cost of the energy needed to heat a greenhouse still usually outweighs the revenue winter crops generate. However, forward-thinking farmers are working on this problem. For example, Eliot Coleman, of Four Season Farm in Maine, has matched cold-hardy vegetables to simple unheated greenhouse technology, and as a result he can harvest and sell fresh greens year-round in a very cold corner of the country. Some local farmers, too, are experimenting with energy-efficient greenhouse solutions, and new winter options for the South Shore may not be so far off.
How on Earth: The Store 62 Marion Road (Route 6) Mattapoisett, MA 02739 (508) 758-1341 www.howonearth.net
Rhode Island Winter Market Saturday, 11:00am to 2:00pm November 7 to May 29, 2010 Hope Artiste Village 1005 Main Street Pawtucket, RI 02860 Martha’s Stone Soup at the Tavern Market Manager: Sheri Griffin 517 Old Sandwich Road (401) 480-0102 Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 224-8900 Web of Life www.marthasstonesoup.com 71 Silva Street Carver, MA 02330 Plymouth Winter Farmers’ Market (508) 866-7712 December thru May, third Thursday www.weboflifefarm.com Exact time to be determined or order through: Plimoth Plantation www.shop.plymouthfarmersmarket.org 137 Warren Ave Plymouth, MA 02360 Eliot Coleman www.plymouthfarmersmarket.org Four Season Farm 609 Weir Cove Road Harborside, ME 04642 www.fourseasonfarm.com
And speaking of the South Shore, don’t forget our richest asset: the ocean. We can eat responsibly from our own waters any time of year. If we combine sustainably-harvested local fish and shellfish with what we preserve, grow, and store; if we concentrate on what is in season as it arrives; if we source meat, eggs, and dairy from local farmers year-round, then we stand a fairly good chance of remaining true locavores right through the cold months until the warm season, once again, greets us with its tender offerings.
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www.howonearth.net Free Wi-Fi
HOW ON EARTH THE STORE
•LOCAL, ORGANIC PRODUCE• •BREADS & CHEESES• •FREE RANGE CHICKEN & GRASS-FED BEEF• •ORGANIC COFFEE, TEA & PASTRIES• •GRILLED PIZZA & ENTRÉES TO GO• •OPEn• TUESDAY-SATURDAY 8AM-5PM
LUNCH SERVED FROM 11AM-2PM DINNER ON FRIDAYS 5:30PM-8:30PM
508 758-1341
62 MARION ROAD RTE.6 MATTAPOISETT, MA 02739 www.ediblesouthshore.com
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edible Difference
Hope on Earth by Marjorie R. Williams
W
hen she leased a vacant storefront in Mattapoisett to serve as a CSA pick-up location, Margie Baldwin had no idea that she was planting the seed for a larger enterprise. Margie and her husband Michael Baldwin had partnered with Weston and Eileen Lant, farmers of Lucky Field Organics, to develop the concept of How on Earth. The plan was to grow vegetables at Lucky Field and sell them via a CSA and some farmers’ markets. The storefront on Route 6 was simply a convenient pick-up location for CSA members. “But as soon as we opened, other people started coming in and asking if they could buy some of the produce,” Margie says. “And so we started selling vegetables.” That was the humble beginning of How on Earth, The Store—or simply “The Store,” as it is known. “And then,” Margie continues, “what were we to do with leftover vegetables? So, we decided to open a kitchen and serve breakfast and lunch.” Business continues to evolve. The Store now sells a variety of mostly organic and local produce, dairy products, grass-fed meats, and prepared foods, along with a range of environmentally-safe cleaning and household products. They recently expanded the café hours and now serve dinner on Fridays, offering local beers and wines. Painted bright colors and furnished with tables sporting fresh flowers, The Store is not just a cheerful place to stock up on healthy items but also a hub of activity and information for people who care about supporting local farms. A poster on the wall cites Ten Reasons to Buy Local, ranging from “If each American ate locally 1 meal a week, the nation would 10 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
save 1.1 million barrels of oil per week” to #10: “Eating locally is easy, fun, and nutritious.” And indeed it is, especially at The Store. As a young business, The Store is still working to develop a sustainable business model. But in terms of impact, The Store is already a big success. It is helping improve people’s eating habits (providing local, seasonal, and mostly organic foods), helping increase awareness about the urgency of supporting local farms, and helping encourage good environmental practices (for example, regular customers know to bring their own carrying bags). “I’m seeing the mindset changing,” Margie observes. “People are more mindful about their choices.” Her gaze extending farther, she adds, “These choices have a huge ripple effect. They make a difference in the health of our bodies, our community, and our local economy.” The rise of The Store from a seedling of an idea to a vigorous and ambitious enterprise for promoting sustainability follows the same model as other programs supported by the Baldwins. Back in the winter of 1992, inspired by Bill Moyers’ series of interviews with Joseph Campbell, Margie and Michael Baldwin gathered with friends to discuss how they could make a difference. Mahatma Gandhi’s famous saying, “Be the change that you want to see in the world,” became their beacon. As a result of these conversations, in 1993 the Baldwins founded the Marion Institute, whose mission is to identify and promote innovators in the realms of the environment, health, business, spirituality, and sustainable farming and help others to replicate their work. Essentially, the Institute is an incubator for programs, both locally and globally, that its Board deems worthy of support. This support often includes helping programs achieve the tax-exempt status and financial stability they need to reach a higher level of impact. Some of the passionate visionaries whose work the Marion Institute supported early on include environmentalist Paul Hawken’s Natural Capital Institute, which is dedicated to research and education about socially and environmentally responsible organizations; the Green Belt Movement, which fosters environmental conservation and community development in Kenya and whose innovative work led to its leader, Wangari Maathai, being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize; and Dr. Thomas Rau’s Paracelsus Biological Medicine Network, which promotes integrated holistic approaches for healing. A slew of other “serendipity projects” also receive support from the Marion Institute during their fragile incubation periods.
Marion Institute Executive Director Desa Van Laarhoven explains that the Institute has recently renewed its focus, saying, “We realized that we need to do even more locally.” One of the best examples is their annual Bioneers by the Bay conference in New Bedford (see page 12). The overall How on Earth program, conceived of by Michael Baldwin and Weston Lant, is another example. In addition to How on Earth: The Store, this program’s initiatives include establishing the Lucky Field Organics CSA, delivering local produce to area schools and hospitals, and building school gardens modeled after Alice Waters’ Seed-to-Table program.. The intention of the How on Earth program is to develop sustainable business models that farmers can adopt and to increase community awareness about the benefits of supporting local farms. Weston Lant hopes to rebuild a sustainable farming economy and avoid the fate of farmland being converted into housing developments. “It’s not only a noble aspiration, but a practical aspiration,” he says. Another Institute-supported project taking root locally is the Green Jobs, Green Economy Initiative. Fueled by the ideas of Van Jones in his book The Green Collar Economy, and directed by Kalia Lydgate (in collaboration with New Bedford Mayor Lang’s office and the New Bedford Economic Development Council), this initiative’s goal is to help New Bedford become a national leader in the green jobs and sustainability movement. Margie Baldwin measures success by comments she hears from the local community. She takes heart when the youth who attend Bioneers get motivated to continue with the momentum on their own. “Change happens one individual, one family, one community at a time,” she observes. And whenever she’s in doubt, her commitment gets renewed when she does pick-ups to restock The Store. “I see farmers who have been at it for years, and this summer was especially hard with the rainy weather and the blight. But they keep at it. I admire that.” Make donations to the Marion Institute and learn more about their programs at www.marioninstitute.org.
How On Earth, The Store 62 Marion Rd. (Route 6) Mattapoisett, MA 02739 For hours and Friday dinner reservations: (508) 758-1341 www.howonearth.net
www.ediblesouthshore.com
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edible Community Bioneers by the Bay: Connecting for Change by Marjorie R. Williams
T
he raw voices of urban teen poets mixed with polished presentations from Nobel Prize and MacArthur “Genius” Award winners. State-of-the-art multimedia performances resonated with the ancient drumming and chanting of the Wampanoag Nation Singers and Dancers. A vibrant blend of thinkers and doers, artists and scientists, celebrities and regular citizens gathered again in New Bedford this October for the fifth annual Bioneers by the Bay conference. The Marion Institute presented this conference in collaboration with its partners UMass Dartmouth, Bioneers, Center at Westwoods, the City of New Bedford, and Southeastern Environmental Education Alliance (SEEAL). New Bedford teemed with activity, from live keynotes held at the Zeiterion Theater to the plenaries from the San Rafael Bioneers conference that were beamed into the National Park Corson Maritime Learning Center Theater, from the trolley tours to the exhibition tents, from the fresh vegetables at the farmers’ market to the fine catering of Russell Morin’s healthy hot lunches. This year’s presenters included Will Allen (cofounder of Growing Power, an urban farming and educational program), Robin Chase (founder of Zipcar and GoLoco), and Winona LaDuke (founder of White Earth Land Recovery Project), among others. Their presentations inspired animated conversations about urban agriculture, climate change, social justice, and even vermicomposting. The program’s eclectic mix of speakers, performers, and workshops offered something for everyone of all ages and backgrounds. Diversity is a hallmark of this conference, represented in the range of presenters and nearly 2000 participants. But a strong unity quickly emerged, namely a deep desire to restore the health of the Earth and its inhabitants.
12 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
A palpable excitement suffused the three-day event, in no small part thanks to the many youth who attended. The organizers made a concerted effort to involve high school and college students as well as youth groups from numerous community organizations. Groups came from UMass Dartmouth, Stonehill College, Brockton High School, Cape Cod Academy, Tabor Academy, New Bedford Global Learning Charter School, New Bedford High School, Westport High School, and elsewhere in New Hampshire, Connecticut, and Rhode Island. Roughly 800 youth scholarships were awarded, and a specially designated Bioneers by the Bay Youth Initiative saw to it that activities aimed at youth were a key part of the program. Additionally, the open mic extravaganza “Words Not Waste,” with performance time reserved for youth, gave them opportunity to express themselves through rap, song, poetry, and dance. Desa Van Laarhoven, Marion Institute’s Executive Director, remarked on the communication and bonding that occurred between youth groups. “There was teamwork being displayed everywhere—from working on art projects, to talking about how to green schools, to showing support for one another at the open mic. The positive energy that came from the youth was outstanding.”
The theme of sustainability was not just given lip service but was woven into the way the conference itself was conducted. Recycling receptacles collected different kinds of waste in separate containers, including twenty 96-gallon carts that were available for compost. At the conference’s end, only two bags of trash were collected for all four days. The Marion Institute’s support for this annual conference brings their lofty vision directly into the real streets and soul of the local community with reverberations that, hopefully, will spread far beyond. The release of butterflies in Wings Court at the conference’s conclusion made a dazzling display and perfect symbolic statement. They immediately scattered, aloft in every direction with their brilliantly colored wings beating fast.
Next year’s Bioneers by the Bay Conference will be held again in New Bedford from October 21-24, 2010. For more on Bioneers by the Bay go to www.connectingforchange.org.
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fresh & Local
mmm…Maple Syrup by Noelle Armstrong, CHHC
mmm…
Hot maple syrup…poured over a big stack of pancakes, darkly pooled with warm butter atop butternut squash, stirred into cream of wheat before kindergarten. These are just a few lasting memories of delicious maple syrup from my childhood. My mother Marie always bought true maple syrup and used it in many recipes. I remember our family trying to tap our maple trees to make our own syrup and being fascinated with the whole process.
amino acids (the building blocks of protein). And a huge bonus is that maple syrup has fewer calories than corn syrup!
Native Americans of the northeastern forests developed the tapping process; today northeastern North America is still the only place maple products are produced. edible South Shore readers are fortunate to be on the southern edge of the “maple belt.” We have the opportunity to buy our syrup locally!
The next time you are reaching for “pancake syrup,” think again (please). If you really want a sweet, truly satisfying, and healthier treat, seek out some local maple syrup. Your body and your local farmers will thank you.
Recently, I spoke with Rich and Robin Forbes from Matfield Maple Farms in West Bridgewater and learned more about the amazing process of making maple syrup. The Forbes have the only commercial sugarhouse south of Boston and have been in business for over 27 years. Rich explained that maple sugar and syrup are all-natural products. There is nothing refined or changed in the process of making them.
Matfield Maple Farm 107 Matfield Street West Bridgewater, MA 02379 (508) 588-9858 matfieldmaple@comcast.net www.matfieldmaplefarm.com
Maple sap, as it drips from the tree, is a clear liquid containing about 2% dissolved sugar. It looks just like water and has a very slight sweet taste. Put simply, the difference between sap and syrup is the percentage of water––on average, forty gallons of sap must be boiled down to make one gallon of syrup. It is during the heating and boiling process that the characteristic delicious flavor develops. Syrup graded “light amber” has a more delicate flavor, while the darker colored “Grade B” syrup has a stronger flavor. (Vitamin and mineral content do not vary with the grade.) Nutritionally speaking, because maple syrup is a natural sugar, your body knows what to do with it. By contrast, commercial “pancake syrup” is little more than flavored high-fructose corn syrup. When consumed, it causes an internal “war” in your body because it isn’t recognized as an actual food—high-fructose corn syrup is not actually found in corn and must be made in a laboratory using specialized equipment. In breaking it down, your body actually “pulls” from its own natural vitamin and mineral resources, leaving you feeling depleted: truly an example of “empty calories.” In the real thing, there are vitamins, minerals (including potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc), and 14 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Some of Matfield Maple Farm’s best customers are a local dentist and pediatrician who purchase gifts of maple syrup to give out to friends, clients, and family members. They know this product is a good-for-you treat, and that, by buying locally, they are supporting and promoting businesses that are so important to our community.
Maple products and tours available year round—call ahead for open hours. Also: llamas, hayrides, vegetables, berries, cordwood, tapping supplies, and sap-testing services. Maple-Garlic-Ginger Sauce Noelle Armstrong recommends this versatile sauce with beef, chicken, or marinated tofu.
• 2 or 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 1-inch knob of fresh ginger, peeled and minced
• ½ cup water
• 1 Tablespoon toasted sesame oil
• 2 Tablespoons maple syrup
• 3 Tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 Tablespoon of water
Put all ingredients except the cornstarch solution in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Whisk in the cornstarch and cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens slightly.
Matfield Maple Farms Butternut Squash
• 1 large butternut squash
• 2 teaspoons butter
• 2 teaspoons maple syrup
Halve squash lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Arrange squash halves in baking pan. Place 1 teaspoon butter in each squash hollow, and drizzle about 1 teaspoon maple syrup over each half. Cover pan with foil and bake about an hour at 375 degrees, or until squash is tender. Serves 4. Roast Chicken Robin Forbes’ Maple with Winter Vegetables Small vegetables may be left whole; otherwise chop them in halves or quarters, as necessary. Try out some other fresh and local seasonal combinations, depending on what you have on hand—leeks, jerusalem artichokes, and sage? Garlic, turnip, and celeriac?
• 1 chicken (3½ to 4 pounds)
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4 small onions, peeled and halved
• ½ pound small carrots, peeled or scrubbed and trimmed • ½ pound small fingerling potatoes, scrubbed
• 2 teaspoons maple syrup
• 1 sprig rosemary
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Rinse chicken, pat dry, and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper inside and out. Place in baking dish with just enough room to contain the vegetables. Arrange the vegetables around the chicken. Drizzle maple syrup over chicken, sprinkle with rosemary leaves, and see that some salt and pepper get on the veggies.
HEALTHY VETERINARY ALTERNATIVES
Roast for 45 minutes. Remove from oven, stir the vegetables around a bit, and brush any drippings you find over them and the chicken. Repeat this activity about every 10 minutes thereafter. The chicken is done when a skewer poked into the fattest part of the thigh brings out clear juices, about an hour and a half in all for this size bird. Remove the chicken to a heated platter and allow to rest in a warm place about 10 minutes before serving. Test the vegetables. If they do not yield pleasantly to a fork, stir them around in the juices, and pop them back into the oven, topped with foil, while your chicken has its rest period. Serves 3 or 4.
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www.healthyveterinaryalternatives.com KINGSTON ANIMAL HOSPITAL • 192 MAIN STREET • KINGSTON, MA 02364
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| 15
edible Yesteryear by Elizabeth Gawthrop Riely
A
long a pond straddling the border with Massachusetts stands the village of Adamsville, Rhode Island. It’s a cluster of old buildings—a general store, workshops, houses, and barns––some of which have been turned to new uses. But one plain structure, Gray’s Mill, has been housing more or less the same business for centuries. The first gristmill on this site was built sometime in the late 1600s by English colonists; milling of meal, flour, and animal feed has been carried out here ever since.
Simmons, miller at Gray’s Grist Mill for the last eight years, describes it. Mr. Simmons has deep roots in this region. His ancestors owned another gristmill, long since gone, in nearby Little Compton, RI. Simmons Mill Pond, now surrounded by wooded trails, still exists as part of a large nature preserve. Mr. Simmons’ personal history includes a stint as a Hollywood stunt man before returning to his native habitat, an experience that may help him give demonstrations to present-day visitors.
Today a visitor can see a small part of the old channel, called a race, running beneath the road to connect the pond to the gristmill. The race then disappears round a bend and empties into a branch of the Westport River. The rush of water in the narrow deep race powered the vertical water wheel, which, through a system of gears, turned the horizontal millstones inside. Corn is the traditional grain milled over the centuries at Gray’s Mill. Because wheat and other European grains yielded poorly in our soil, the native maize of the Narragansett Indians continued as the staple grain in the region after English farmers took root. After a late summer harvest, the colonists would dry, shuck, and shell the corn, then take the kernels to the miller for grinding.
Renamed in 1883, Gray’s Grist Mill today also includes a museum and store. In the museum you can see the old millstones, of huge size and weight, as well as antique tools used in the whole milling process from field to table. Many of these were collected by John Hart, a previous miller (1939 to 1980), who wanted the mill to continue in operation. Mr. Hart sold it to the present owner, Ralph Guild, a New Yorker and a longtime summer resident, on the condition that it remain a working mill. Mr. Guild has done a great deal to preserve and restore and mill and its pond.
That the miller was once a central figure in the community is evidenced by Adamsville’s 18th-century name: Taber’s Mill. The small settlement also included a general store, blacksmith shop, and coach maker. “The original strip mall,” is how Thornton 16 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Mr. Simmons shows visitors the two separate pairs of mill wheels, each 15 inches thick and weighing 1½ tons. One upper “running” stone, an imported French buhr stone 48 inches in diameter, grinds wheat and rye. Another, 56 inches across and made of very hard granite, is for corn, which he grinds more often. The bottom “bed” stone is stationary. The dried and shelled corn is put into a hopper or chute which feeds the corn with the help of a wooden
Jonny Cake Corn Meal and Pancake & Waffle Mix are stone ground and put up at Gray’s Grist Mill. rod, called a “damsel,” through the “shoe” in the center of the millstone. As the stone turns, the damsel continually taps against the shoe, so the phrase “the damsel sings” means that the millstones are grinding. The pair of millstones never quite touch each other, which would harm the stones, stop the mill abruptly, or, in certain circumstances, risk fire. The crisscross grooves on the bed stone and slight incline and grooves on the running stone gradually move the corn from the middle, where it’s sheared open rather than crushed, toward the periphery, where it’s ground more finely. Brushes whisk the finished meal down through a “bolter” or sieve, and then into large sacks, to be divided into bags and weighed. Today Mr. Simmons sells the bags of finished meal in the shop or ships them far and wide across the country and overseas, especially at holiday time. Mr. Simmons points out the importance in the process of grinding slowly: about three bushels an hour, so that the cornmeal doesn’t heat up, spoiling the germ (the central embryo which contains many nutrients and rich flavor). Along with its coarse texture and lack of preservatives, it’s this cool grinding that makes stone-ground cornmeal so much better than the highly processed cornmeal sold at the supermarket. Packaged at the mill in plastic within a cloth bag, the cornmeal should be refrigerated or frozen to keep the germ fresh.
Among the miller’s responsibilities is keeping the millstones’ grooves sharp. With hammer and chisel, Mr. Simmons dresses these patterns each winter, lifting the extremely heavy top stone with a screw jack and crane. The visitor can see all these tools (large and small) in the museum along with diagrams and other paraphernalia. Because the water level of the pond is unreliable for year-round grinding the mill wheel is now powered electrically, but otherwise the cornmeal is stone-ground by the traditional method. With the expansion of farming in the Midwest in the 19th century and the building of great turbine mills on the upper Mississippi River to process the resulting amber waves of grain, many small local mills like Gray’s, which could not compete in power and speed, ceased to exist. For the consumer in a newly industrialized America, long shelf life and low cost meant that many damsels sang no more. The distinguishing feature of the cornmeal at Gray’s Grist Mill, which may have contributed to the mill’s extraordinary survival, is that it’s made from Narragansett White Cap Flint Corn. This is an eight-row flint corn, the word “cap” describing the way the kernels grow up around the tip, and the word “flint” describing its very hard texture. This ancient local cultivar, bred by the Narragansett Indians, thrives in the local soil, but its comparatively low yield challenges today’s farmer—so much so that only two farmers grow
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it now. The variety has survived to the present day on its clear superiority when ground into meal. In fact, this is the only cornmeal that purists will have in their “jonnycakes,” the local name for cornmeal pancakes. For several reasons the jonnycake itself presents challenges—first of all, its spelling (purists say without the h); second, its derivation (infinitely pondered over by 19th and 20th century antiquarians who guessed at “journey cake” or “Shawnee cake,” or, more recently and rigorously documented, “jannock cake,” a flatbread traditional to northern England); and third, all the local and historical variations on the basic recipe. At its most basic, the jonnycake is nothing more than moistened meal fried in small cakes. Flint cornmeal, like Gray’s, has been used for more elaborate pancakes, cornbread, fritters, and cakes over the centuries, but it is in the jonnycake that the modern eater can still experience a true flavor of the past, thanks to the lineage of local farmers and millers who have sustained this tradition.
Narragansett White Cap Flint Corn.
Jonnycakes
These cornmeal pancakes, made of stone-ground flint corn and little else, are very plain—that’s what makes them so good. This basic thick johnnycake is based on a recipe from Gray’s Grist Mill. Like spoonbread or grits, jonnycakes can be served at any meal with sweet or savory accompaniments: butter, maple syrup, bacon, hash, meatloaf with gravy, and so on.
• 2 cups stone-ground cornmeal
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup boiling water
• About 1 cup milk
• Vegetable oil, bacon fat, butter, or other grease for the pan
Heat a griddle or large cast iron frying pan to medium hot, about 325 degrees, and cover the surface with a generous amount of cooking fat. Drop small spoonfuls of batter well apart and let them cook for about 5 minutes as the edges become crisp and lacy and the bottoms golden brown. Turn once, cook a minute more, and serve. The phrase “the damsel sings” means that the millstones are grinding.
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Serves 4 to 6.
Photos by Carole Topalian
Put the cornmeal and salt in a bowl. Slowly add the boiling water in the middle, stirring it to smooth any lumps. Gradually add just enough milk to make a thick but pourable batter. Let it sit for a few minutes.
Gristmills in Southeastern Massachusetts (call ahead to confirm hours): Gray’s Grist Mill 638 Adamsville Rd. Westport, MA 02790 (508) 636-6075 www.graysgristmill.com
Jenney Gristmill 6 Spring Lane Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 747-4544 www.jenneygristmill.com
Dexter Mill Maine and Water Streets Sandwich, MA 02563 (508) 888-4910 (Town Hall)
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Indian Pound Cake edible South Shore can’t resist sharing a wonderful recipe found in a hand-written notebook in the Pilgrim Hall Museum Archives, and printed here with their kind permission. Mary Elizabeth Spooner of Plymouth apparently copied this formula from Eliza Leslie’s Seventy-five Receipts, for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats (published 1828) when that volume was relatively hot off the press. Like the jonnycakes, it’s not worth making if you can’t get the right meal. But with stone-ground flint corn, this will be one of the best pound cakes you’ll ever eat. Incidentally, the title adjective “Indian” is 19th-century recipe shorthand for “Indian Meal.”
• 4 eggs
• 1½ cups (9 oz.) sugar
• 2 cups plus 2 Tablespoons (7 oz.) jonnycake meal
• ½ cup (4 oz.) butter, soft
• ½ nutmeg, grated
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
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Line the bottom of an 8½”x4½” loaf pan with waxed paper or parchment. Butter the pan and the paper. Cream the butter very thoroughly. Add the sugar and beat until very light. Stir in the nutmeg and about one quarter of the meal, followed by one egg; beat 20 seconds. Continue alternately adding meal and eggs, beating 20 seconds after each egg addition. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake at 350 degrees. After 40 minutes, turn oven down to 325 degrees for ten minutes, or until a toothpick or skewer inserted into the center of the cake emerges clean. Allow the cake to rest in its pan on a cooling rack for 15 minutes, then unmold and cool thoroughly before slicing.
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| 19
edible Traditions
Enjoying Local Bounty
for the Holiday Season by S. Terry Vandewater
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rom farm fresh turkeys and hearty root vegetables to tangy cranberries and soothing apple cider, you can use the local bounty of southeastern Massachusetts to deepen the experience of eating during this holiday season. By taking advantage of what is in season and available locally, you support your local farmers and add pleasure and satisfaction to your menus. Try re-thinking some of your holiday favorites in light of seasonally available produce. Infusing some new ingredients or side dishes into old-time favorites can give your holiday meals a new twist, while pleasing the pickiest of palates. Here are a few suggestions and recipes to incorporate local flavor into your holiday cooking. Let’s talk turkey—there are a variety of turkey farms in the area, including Asack Turkey Farm in West Bridgewater, Bongi’s Turkey Roost in Duxbury, Belwing Acres in Seekonk, Rainbow Turkey Farm and Dufort Farms in Rehoboth, and Web of Life Farm in Carver. Keep your turkey simple, roasting it with butter, fresh herbs, and salt and pepper; craft a stuffing using local bounty–– Island Creek Oysters and last-of-the-season onions, celery, and carrots––and, voilà, you have created a fabulous culinary centerpiece. Root vegetables add a nice touch to any holiday table—and they’re in season. One of my favorite recipes calls for a combination of carrots, leeks, and parsnips. Parsnips, you say? Ah…the diamonds in the rough of the root vegetable family, parsnips are a creamy-colored relative of the carrot. Cooked just right, parsnips have a sweet and nutty flavor that will have you asking, “Why don’t I eat these more often?” This past year, the culinary world lost the trend-setting Sheila Lukins, co-founder of gourmet food company The Silver Palate. I thought it fitting to share a recipe that was inspired by her The New Basics Cookbook in her honor. This recipe uses an herb butter to enhance carrots, leeks, and parsnips, and it adds some nice color to the plate. Local cranberries, both abundant and nutritious, are one of the easiest accompaniments to add to your holiday feasts. Cranberries don’t have to be relegated just to Thanksgiving Day either. A fresh cranberry relish adds a burst of tang to meat and poultry dishes 20 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
anytime. Cranberry Hill Farm, located in Plymouth, provides organic cranberries for your perennial favorite turkey condiment. When the cleanup is done and the in-laws have retired for the evening, settle into your favorite chair and relax with a cup of Hot Apple Pie. Laced with rum, infused with cinnamon and orange, and topped with butter, this spiked apple cider will leave you with a warm glow as you contemplate the day’s events. Afraid the alcohol might leave you a little fuzzy the next morning? Omit the rum, and you still have a soothing and flavorful drink that whisks away the day’s stress. Plain or spiked, it offers a welcome respite from the hectic pace of the holidays. Add some pizzazz to the dinner plate and create new favorites this holiday season, even as you deepen your connection to our region and to the people who grow our food.
Sources: Asack Turkey Farm 166 South Street West Bridgewater, MA 02379 (508) 586-2902 Bongi’s Turkey Roost 414 Kingstown Way (Rte. 53) Duxbury, MA 02331 (781) 585-2392 www.bongis.com Belwing Acres 773 Taunton Ave Seekonk, MA 02771 (508) 336-9142 Cranberry Hill Farm 103 Haskell Road Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 888-9179 www.organiccranberries.com
Dufort Farms 55 Reservoir Rehoboth, MA 02769 (508) 252-6323 www.dufortfarms.com Island Creek Oysters 296 Parks Street Duxbury, MA 02332 (781) 934-2028 www.islandcreekoysters.com Rainbow Turkey Farm 199 Homestead Ave Rehoboth, MA 02769 (508) 252-4427 Web of Life Farm 71 Silva Street Carver, MA 02330 (508) 866-7712 www.weboflifefarm.com
edible South Shore extends a special thank you to Marion Crocker for hosting a wonderful holiday feast at her beautiful home in Plymouth, MA.
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Roast Turkey
with Cornbread/Oyster Stuffing and Giblets Gravy
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n irreproachably lovely twelve-pounder from Bongi’s Turkey Roost in Duxbury was the centerpiece of edible South Shore’s locavore holiday dinner. To order such a small turkey may require calling ahead, but it serves eight nicely and is much more convenient to handle from start to finish than the usual avian behemoth. Plus, leftovers do not stretch dauntingly into infinity.
• ½ cup vermouth
• 1½ cups chicken broth
• 12 oysters, shucked and coarsely chopped,
• salt and freshly ground pepper
We like to brine a turkey for best flavor and moisture, so we start the night before.
• ¼ cup parsley leaves, finely chopped
• 3 eggs
Make the brine:
• 2 gallons cool water
• 2½ cups kosher salt
In a non-reactive container large enough to hold the turkey, stir together the salt and water. Rinse the turkey inside and out. Find the giblet packet and reserve in fridge. Submerge the turkey in brine. If you don’t have room in your refrigerator for this large item, plan to use a cooler you can leave outside overnight. (You can even brine directly in a clean cooler. Substitute ice cubes for up to half the water in the brine mix.) Also the night before, bake a double batch of your favorite simple cornbread. edible South Shore used cornmeal from the Jenney Grist Mill in Plymouth and a recipe from the ever-reliable old Joy of Cooking. In the morning, check your timetable. Allow 20 minutes per pound for a stuffed turkey, which for our small bird came to 4 hours. Ovens vary, so this is a ballpark figure. More on doneness later. If you want to make giblet gravy, set aside the best parts of your vegetable trimmings as you are making the stuffing. Make the stuffing:
• 2 pounds cornbread
• 8 Tablespoons (4 ounces) butter
• 1 cup onion, finely chopped
• 1 cup celery, finely chopped
• 1 cup carrot, finely chopped
• 1 Tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, minced
• 1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, minced
• 1 Tablespoon fresh sage leaves, center stalk removed, minced
22 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
oyster liquor reserved
Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Crumble the cornbread into chunks—you want 10 cups. Spread on two cookie sheets and bake 45 minutes, or until crunchy. Stir up the crumbs and put them back in the oven, turning it off. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the onions, celery, and carrots, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the thyme, rosemary, and sage. Cook another few minutes. Add the vermouth, chicken stock, and oyster liquor. Turn up the heat and bring to a simmer for a minute. Add salt and pepper to taste. Put the toasted cornbread chunks in a large bowl. Pour on the contents of the sauté pan, adding the parsley and the oysters. Mix well. Beat eggs and mix in. When it’s time to stuff the turkey:
• 1 onion or 1 apple, optional
• 1 Tablespoon soft butter
• salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place oven rack as low as possible. Take the turkey from the brine, rinsing it with cool water inside and out. Pat dry, also inside and out. Have some skewers and twine handy. Have your roasting pan, preferably with a greased rack in it, also standing by. Stuff both cavities of the turkey loosely; the stuffing won’t all fit. Use optional onion or apple to stopper lower cavity, then secure ankles to tail with twine. Tack down neck flap over stuffing in upper cavity with a skewer. Rub turkey all over with butter and season with salt and pepper. Place the turkey on the roasting rack. Tent the bird loosely with a large sheet of foil and ease him into the oven. Pour in enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. Make a note of the time.
(continued)
Roast Turkey
with Cornbread/Oyster Stuffing and Giblets Gravy
Transfer the leftover stuffing to a baking dish, dotting with butter, if desired. Cover snugly with foil or a lid. Set aside, eventually baking it in 350-degree oven for about 30 minutes. What about the giblets? Rinse them off and determine which one is the liver; set it aside. Place all the rest of the giblets in a large saucepan, adding the best of the carrot, leek, onion, and parsnip trimmings, etc., that you’ve been making through the day, plus a bit of salt. Cover with water and simmer very gently while you go about the rest of your business. Put the liver in a tiny pan, cover with cold water and a pinch of salt, simmer very gently 10 minutes, drain, cool, and set aside. Now it’s time to look at the turkey. Pour more water in the pan if it’s drying up. Next time you look in there, say at the one-hour mark, it’s probably time to start basting. Just use a bulb baster or large spoon to bathe him all over quickly with pan juices; then go back to roasting. Do this every half-hour or so. About 45 minutes before your 20-minutes-per-pound math tells you the turkey should be done, start to look at him critically. When he’s beginning to look like a roasted turkey—skin browning, tautening and receding; leg joints feeling loose—poke a skewer deep into the thickest part of the thigh. Juices run clear when the bird is done. Or, deploy an instant-read thermometer into the same region—175 degrees tells you to finish up.
Pour the drippings carefully from the roasting pan into a large saucepan. Skim off any fat, and bring to a simmer. Add the giblet broth, catching the solids in a strainer. Set the cooked giblets aside to cool a bit. Simmer the combined stock a few minutes to reduce. When the stock tastes great, keep it simmering over medium heat, and whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Keep whisking until it boils and thickens somewhat. (If you like your gravy thicker, simply repeat this step.) Mince liver along with the giblets. Stir it into the gravy, heat through, adjust seasonings, and it’s ready. To serve: Admire the turkey. Spoon out the stuffing, supplementing with that which merely baked in a dish. Carve the turkey and serve instantly. To make an unstuffed turkey: Follow general guidelines above (except the stuffing part…). Toss some aromatic things into the turkey’s cavities (onions, herbs, garlic, citrus), and use plenty of pepper, (and salt, too, if you don’t brine). Calculate roasting time at 16 minutes per pound. Whichever method you choose, don’t forget to make turkey broth from the carcass!
If the skin is not as brown and crisp as you like, remove the foil for a few minutes of additional roasting. When satisfied that the turkey is perfectly done, remove the whole thing from the oven (putting the covered dish of leftover stuffing in the oven now). Transfer the turkey carefully to a heated platter. Put the foil back on loosely to keep him warm for a resting period of at least 15 minutes. Make the gravy:
• Pan juices from turkey
• Giblet broth
• Giblets
• 1 Tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 3 Tablespoons cold water
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
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Root Vegetables
Unbundled (adapted from the “Vegetable Bundles” recipe in The New Basics Cookbook)
Blanching the vegetables brightens their colors and assures that they’ll all be perfectly cooked before their last-minute visit to the sauté pan. A downside to the technique is that a significant portion of their flavor goes into the blanching water; one compensation is that the resulting vegetable broth can be used as a cooking medium in another recipe—say, for cooking giblets in the accompanying turkey recipe. After the blanching step, you can set the drained vegetables aside for hours; finishing them in the herb butter later.
Traditional Whole Cranberry Sauce Recipes for the basic, but delicious, cranberry sauce have been in print in American cookbooks, magazines, and trade pamphlets, virtually unchanged, since the 19th century. Get some local organic berries, and enjoy them unembellished, or work up your own version, adding a little orange zest, horseradish, fresh ginger, or other spice to suit your menu.
• 2 cups fresh cranberries
• ½ cup sugar (white or brown) or 1/3 cup honey
• 2/3 cup water or orange juice
Rinse and pick over berries. Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer aggressively until the berries have all popped, about 8 to 10 minutes.
• 6 carrots, peeled
• 4 parsnips, peeled
• 2 leeks, paler parts only
Taste for sweetness and season as desired.
• 8 Tablespoons (4 ounces) butter
Pour into serving bowl; sauce will set as it cools.
• 2 shallots, minced
• 1 teaspoon tarragon leaves, minced
• 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, minced
• 1 teaspoon marjoram leaves, minced
• 6 scallions, green parts only, or a bunch of chives
• Freshly ground pepper
Trim the carrots and parsnips to a convenient uniform length, around 4 or 5 inches. Cut leeks to same length. Cut all into julienne strips. Fill a large saucepan with water. Add ½ teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Place the carrots in a small metal basket or strainer and submerge them in the boiling water for 45 seconds. Rinse under cold water and set aside to drain. Repeat with the parsnips for 30 seconds and the leeks for 10 seconds. As each vegetable comes out of the boiling water, plunge it directly into ice water, then drain. (A slotted spoon also works, if you lack the basket or strainer.) If you like, you may set the vegetables aside, in a covered container, for up to three hours at this point. When you’re almost ready to serve, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook the shallots until translucent. Add the minced herbs, the scallions and the blanched vegetables, turning them very gently in the butter. When they are heated through and tender, transfer the vegetables along with their butter to a warmed serving dish. Serve immediately. Serves 8.
Uncooked Cranberry Orange Relish According to Kathleen Curtin and Sandra Oliver, authors of Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie, this relish recipe has been printed on Ocean Spray cranberry packaging for almost 80 years. Still a favorite, it now takes about 30 seconds to make with a food processor, and it can be stored in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Adaptable to any poultry, game, or roast, this relish can go any direction you want to take it. Add ground walnuts. How about a squirt of lime, some minced cilantro and scallion, or maybe ground toasted coriander seeds, unsweetened grated coconut, and fresh mint or parsley?
• 2 cups fresh cranberries
• 1 whole orange
• ¾ cup sugar or ½ cup honey Rinse and pick over cranberries.
Wash orange and cut in 6 or 8 chunks. Put the berries and orange together in food processor and pulse to grind to a relish. (Or, if you’d prefer to employ the technology appropriate to the original recipe, put them through an old-fashioned meat-grinder.) Mix in sugar or honey. Chill, covered, for a few hours, to allow flavors to blend.
24 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Native Grown, Farm-Fresh Turkeys & Home-Style Turkey Products with all the Fixin’s!
Specialties include: Hot Roasted Turkeys & Chicken Fresh & Frozen Turkeys Turkey Pot Pies & Chicken, too! Dinners, Box Lunches, Soups and more!
Bongi’s Est.1938
Turkey Roost Raised for Quality, Sold on Merit! 781.585.2392
Rte.53 Tuesday-Saturday Duxbury, MA 02332 9am-6pm
www.bongis.com
“The Perfect Gift for Every Season”
“Hot Apple Pie”
not necessarily like mom’s
• 6 cups apple cider
• 1/3 cup brown sugar
• 8 whole cloves
• Zest of one orange, removed in one or two fat strips with a vegetable peeler
• 8 cinnamon sticks
• 6 Tablespoons (3 ounces) butter, soft
• 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 cup light rum
• About 3 Tablespoons applejack, optional
Fedele’s
Hand DippedChocolates
The Most Unique Confectionery Shops
P LYMOUTH
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Village Landing Marketplace 170 Water Street
Anderson Plaza 95 Church Street
781.826.0669
508.746.8907
www.fedeleschocolates.com
Combine the cider and brown sugar in a large saucepan. Using a skewer or toothpick, poke 8 holes into the strips of orange zest, and insert the cloves. Toss these, along with the cinnamon sticks, into the cider. Bring to a simmer over medium heat; allow to warm and infuse for 15 minutes. Combine the soft butter, nutmeg, and allspice in a small bowl. Mix well and set aside. When ready to serve, add the rum to the cider pot, then ladle the mixture into cups. Top with a teaspoonful of spiced butter and a swirl of applejack, if desired. Garnish each cup with one of the cinnamon sticks. Serves 8.
Bridgewater • Lawn & Garden • • Seeds, Bulbs, Shrubs & Fruit Trees • • Organic Fertilizer, Compost, Loam • • Horse, Livestock, Poultry & Pet Supplies • 1000 Plymouth Street Rte104 Bridgewater, MA 02324
508.697.1995
www.bridgewaterfarm.com
www.ediblesouthshore.com
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edible Backyard
Fired with Enthusiasm
Wood-fired Home Baking in Southeastern Massachusetts by Paula Marcoux
I
n an era when, we are told, Americans can’t spend more than 3 minutes preparing a meal, a strangely contrarian segment of the population is willing, no, driven, to go to great lengths to bake in wood-fired ovens. Most of these devotees operate in back-yard secrecy, sometimes communicating in on-line cells, but largely engaged in a solitary pursuit involving brick and mortar, flour and sourdough. Only when these elements have come together successfully, sometimes after years of labor, only then is the world invited to bear witness, as the perfect pizza margherita slides out of the oven’s maw to create awe and envy. And spawn the next generation of The Obsessed.
26 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Full disclosure: I am one of them. After a winter spent dreaming, researching, and planning, I built a wonderful small oven of clay (a “mud oven,” in masons’ parlance) in my yard last April. I love it and use it a lot, to bake bread, pizza, veggies, poultry––basically anything you’d stick in a gas or electric oven. And it’s here—where the dough hits the bricks—that all the scheming and shoveling pays off—everything is better baked in a wood-fired oven. I have to admit, though, that even subject as I am to The Obsession, still I had to shake my head in wonderment when I beheld it manifest, full-blown, in others. I found these kindred spirits online, where hundreds of wood-fired baking enthusiasts around
Photo by Paula Marcoux
The author’s humble, but beloved effort. Kiko Denzer’s book was invaluable.
“Something was just triggered in him when he saw that first oven, that’s for darn sure. He became a man obsessed.”
––Wife of a local brick-oven enthusiast, October 3, 2009
the world gather virtually to work out their draft and insulation issues, reveal the next crazy plot to get the hearth temperature blasting hot for the best pizza, and debate how to inject steam for the most shattering baguette crust. Upon my inquiry, a few of these folks admitted to living in edible South Shore territory, and some of them could be persuaded to turn in others of their acquaintance. Before I knew it, I was standing in the midst of a sweet coven of like-minded baking-kooks, underground low-tech enthusiasts made visible by the high-tech world. Perhaps your heart is suddenly racing as you contemplate your own wood-fired baking potential. Maybe you are a home baker, frustrated by the foolish inadequacies of the plug-in oven in the kitchen, yearning for the ideal loaf or the perfect 3-minute pizza. Or maybe, like some of my informants, you’ve never baked in your life, but have somehow come into the mania oven-first, bread-to-follow. I’m here to tell you that there are many paths to the goal, depending on your resources and particular version of The Obsession. Details follow under “Resources.” Like any other project, your wood-fired oven requires an investment. If you don’t want to spend a lot of money, plan to spend some physical labor and some time. My oven was the cheapest one of all I surveyed, coming in at under $20 (for sand of all things––and I live in a virtual sand-pit). Admittedly, I am a scrounger and a cheapskate, and my aesthetic runs to the funky and eclectic. But my oven does exactly what I need.
Photo by Marty Pearson
For under $2000, some of my informants are building brick and mortar ovens, very substantial, and very well insulated. These folks are investing a great deal of effort and are learning new skills. (“By the time I’m done with this, I’ll really be ready to build an oven…”) One man I spoke to was on his third summer of building and was desperately hoping to bake bread by Thanksgiving. These massive, well-insulated ovens are for a lifetime, a smaller version of those used by commercial wood-fired bakeries. For those who can afford money more than time and sweat, there’s the pre-fab oven core, made of refractory clay. What you’re buying is the actual baking chamber, the trickiest part to design and build. The Le Panyol brand from France is the most frequently-found version in this area. Cast in sections out of lovely terre blanche clay, it arrives on our shores in modular convenience,
Marty Pearson has built this beautiful Le Panyol in Plainville. BUT there’s still a big masonry job, what with the base, insulation, enclosure, and façade. Folks I know who followed this route spent $3000 to $4000 on the core and other materials, and then a like amount on the local mason who did the installation. One local couple who decided to undertake the installation themselves puzzled over the pieces and their proper orientation, poring over websites for clues by night, cursing Le Panyol for their lack of instructions by day. When at last things seemed to be going correctly, and they hoisted the final oven section off the pallet, they found the instruction booklet, packed first. Perhaps you have special circumstances: Rent your home and hesitate to invest in so permanent a structure? How about an oven on a trailer? Homemade out of clay, or high-end Le Panyol, it’s been successfully done. Or look into a smaller, quick-to-fire, sheet-metal oven-on-wheels for your patio. Live in an old house with a long disused oven in the chimney (or maybe just a tell-tale bricked-up rectangle)? Get a mason with experience in restoration to have a look at your flue and firebox––with a little investment, you may be wood-fire baking INSIDE your house! Designing a new house or addition? Talk to a local mason about building a domed or vaulted oven, or installing a refractory core, like a Le Panyol. Once you’re in for a fireplace, you’d be silly not to go the full route and include an oven! (If you find yourself automatically agreeing with that statement, just face it: you’re one of us.)
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Resources Online:
Books and Plans:
Reading about the experiences of others can be very helpful in deciding which sort of oven to build, and practical problemsolving advice is invaluable when you hit a wall. Some potential oven-builders may even get talked down from The Obsession when they see what is involved.
Build Your Own Earth Oven, by Kiko Denzer. A wonderful (dare I say foolproof?) scheme for building basic yet beautiful ovens, by someone who has a real way with clay. For the quick, cheap, yet perfectly serviceable oven, Kiko’s your man.
www.groups.yahoo.com/group/brick-oven An amazing resource with active and generous participants of all experience levels, plus photos of every sort of project imaginable. When you are feeling like the kookiest person you know, it can be inspiring to see that someone else is much further around the bend than you are. www.fornobravo.com/forum Even though this forum is sponsored by a distributor of one of the leading lines of pre-fab ovens, its participants wander far and wide in the wood-fired baking world. Slick, beautiful, and naturally a bit more commercial than the Yahoo! group. www.traditionaloven.com Not a forum, but brick ovens A to Z. A tremendous introduction to the wood-fired world from Down Under.
The Bread Ovens of Quebec, by Lise Boily and Jean-Francois Blanchette. Another inexpensive option. Examples of this type of oven may be seen in action at Plimoth Plantation. Several of my local informants surprised me by telling me that it was seeing those ovens at the museum that first set them on the wood-fired trail. (Me, too. That’s where I first learned wood-fired baking!) The Bread Builders, by Daniel Wing and Alan Scott. Truly a watershed volume, this book has galvanized many an imagination. The recently deceased Alan is all but venerated as a saint in the wood-fired community; his ovens and those inspired by his ideas can be found all around the world (including Dartmouth and nearby Warren, Rhode Island). His followers carry on at www. ovencrafters.net. There’s an annotated gallery of Alan Scott building an oven at www.blackoven.idkhosting.com/wfob.html. Building a Wood-Fired Oven for Bread and Pizza, by Tom Jaine. A fun book, with lots of well-researched baking history and a how-to section. The Obsession with an English accent. The Forgotten Art of Building and Using a Brick Bake Oven, by Richard M. Bacon. Interesting, but outdated, both in terms of restoration and food history; probably most useful in planning a reproduction brick oven. www.traditionaloven.com Rado Hand, an Australian mason, will send you detailed plans on disk for his extraordinary oven’s chimney, flue, firing dome, and arch construction. His website is generous with free information. Pre-cast ovens (and the masons who know them): www.fornobravo.com www.wildwoodovens.com Le Panyol Martin Pearson Stone Comfort Gallery Plainville, MA 02762 www.stonecomfort.com Marty is the only local Le Panyol dealer. He has experience in building vaulted or domed ovens as well as installing and finishing the Le Panyol.
A ready-made rolling patio oven provides multi-season versatility at the home of Kathy & Peter Messier in Kingston, MA. 28 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Le Panyol dealers, but further afield: Albie Barden Norridgewock, ME www.mainewoodheat.com
Local masons (known to have installed and finished a Le Panyol): Tim Croke Steve Petronelli (508) 348-4765 (401) 623-1309 Brick ovens from the ground up: Frankie Landscape Construction Joseph Cecchinelli / Steve Lassman Bourne, MA (508) 274-4909 (617) 694-4595 Restoration Masonry: These craftsmen specialize in appropriate mortars and bricks for repairs and historic reproductions. MLB Restoration Michael Burrey Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 277-4468
actions green louder than words ™ An On-line Green Business Directory & Community that will help you achieve a more eco-friendly lifestyle!
P.O. Box 388 Marshfield, MA 02050
North River Masonry Jared Baker Hanover, MA 02339 (781) 831-3185
877.304.4493
Visit us at: www.gogreenwebdirectory.com
Ready-made rolling patio ovens: Less costly than a pre-cast refractory clay oven, ready to go. Anderson Fireplace 720 Brockton Avenue Abington, MA 02351 (781) 616-6265 www.andersonfireplace.com
Wood-fired baking workshops: www.breadhitz.com Our local baking luminary, Swiss-trained Chef Ciril Hitz, is creating a workshop space in Rehoboth around his capacious Le Panyol oven. Classes begin next summer. Ciril’s authoritative books and instructional DVDs are also available through the website. www.stoneturtlebaking.com Highly recommended workshops in Maine with Michael and Sandy Jubinsky. www.kingarthurflour.com/baking Their educational center in Norwich, Vermont, offers classes for every level, featuring great instructors like Richard Miscovich and Ciril Hitz. www.heartofmaine.org/kneading An annual mid-summer conference in Maine—immersion in making and baking bread, building wood-fired ovens, and cultivating local grains.
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Malcolm Stone’s Pizza Place the dough back in the bowl and cover again for another 45 minutes. Turn the dough carefully out on your counter. Divide the dough in 2, 3, or 4 pieces, depending on the size pizza you’d like to make. Knead each dough ball briefly into a perfect smooth ball, then arrange them in a container with a lid. Leave space between them, so they don’t join together into one blob again. Cover with the lid and place in fridge at least overnight or for up to 3 days.
A
serious home baker, Malcolm Stone started out about ten years ago with a bread machine he got as a gift and a sack of grocery store flour. While many unsolicited bread machines gather dust until they go into the yard sale, Malcolm’s eventually blew out from overuse. One thing led to another, and now the Duxbury resident does his baking in a backyard Le Panyol oven. He grinds his own flour with a cute little hand mill and maintains a sourdough culture that he uses for most of his leavening. When asked by edible South Shore if he could adapt his signature 80% whole wheat pizza for less advanced bakers, Malcolm generously complied. The result is a nuttily delicious and chewy pizza crust. The method is very easy, but it is best to make the dough a day or two before you wish to use it.
• 2 cups lukewarm water
• ¼ teaspoon yeast
• ⅓ cup (2 ounces) semolina
• ½ cup (2¼ ounces) all purpose flour
• 4 cups (17½ ounces) white whole wheat flour
• 4 teaspoons kosher salt (or 2½ teaspoons table salt)
When you want to make pizza, preheat your oven to its hottest bake setting. If you have a pizza stone, by all means deploy it in the upper half of the oven (allow an extra half hour of preheating time). Take the dough out of the cold, and separate the blobs onto a lightly floured surface. Have your toppings ready, along with some cornmeal. Gently stretch out your dough, either with a rolling pin, or with your hands. Lay pizza on cornmeal-dusted baking sheet or peel (for transferring to the baking stone) and quickly add toppings (don’t overdo it). The pizza will bake in 5 to 10 minutes, depending on its size and your oven temperature. Makes 2-4 pizzas, depending on size desired.
You can use a stand mixer with a dough hook or a big bowl and wooden spoon. Put the water in the bowl and swirl in the yeast. Add all the flours at once and mix well. Everything should be amalgamated together, with no dry or wet spots, and the dough should have a springy feeling. This takes no more than 3 or 4 minutes.
After 45 minutes, very lightly flour a clean countertop. Scrape the dough out of the bowl as one blob. Gently stretch the edges of the blob out to all sides. Imagine that the dough is a business letter, and stretch and fold in the top, then the bottom. Press it a bit flat, then fold in the right side, then the left, making a nice, smooth package. Incorporate a minimum of flour during this procedure.
30 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Fig and Goat Cheese Pizza On each personal-sized pizza, Malcolm scattered 5 or 6 wedges of fresh ripe fig, a crumbling of mild goat cheese, a handful of walnut pieces, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Wonderful with his complex and lightly sour crust.
Photos by Paula Marcoux
Scrape down the bowl and utensil. Cover the bowl with a plate, lid, or bit of plastic wrap and an elastic band. Set your timer for 45 minutes, and go about your business.
“Where Food, Wine, and Friends Meet!” The Winery on 53 features Chef Ken Wisneski’s New England American Cuisine. Serving Fresh Seafood, Steaks, Chops, and Pasta Entrées.
THE WINERY 53
a little bit of Italy on the South Shore!
Live Entertainment at our Piano Bar Thursday-Saturday
restaurant & tavern
Pré Fixé 3 Course Menu $14.95 Sunday-Thursday 3pm to Close Sunday Family Specials 3pm to 10pm Lunch & Dinner Monday-Saturday 11:30am-10pm Sunday Brunch & Dinner 11:30am-10pm
New Private Function Room 615 Washington Street Route 53 Pembroke, MA 02359
America’s Hometown Tax Service, LLC Jeff rey E. Simpson,EA
781-826-2532 www.winery53.com
Since 1986
Ta x P r e p a r a t i o n & P l a n n i n g
781.582.9930 1 . 8 0 0 . 2 8 7. 9 4 9 5 t a x - p r e p @u s a . n e t w w w. h o m e t o w n t a x s e r v i c e . c o m 7 8 Main Street Kingston, MA 02364
Ready-to-bake entrees, sauces and more… • Ziti with Chicken & Broccoli • Chicken Parmesan • • Baked Ziti with Cheese • Lasagna • Ravioli • Manicotti • • Gnocchi • Meatballs • Soup • Calzone • Pizza • • Fresh Italian Bread • Tiramisu • Cannoli • Italian Deli •
Send the gift of food! www.aapasta.com
Alfredo Aiello Italian Foods, Inc.
Store Hours: M-F 9am-6pm / Sat 9am-5pm
Norwell
72 Washington St. ( Rt 53 )
781.878.2500
Banks Too Big To Fail? Good For The Customer? Don’t Bank On It. Is having nearly 70%* of all bank deposits in our nation controlled by a few large financial institutions really good for our nation’s economy – or security? Given what we know now, how many Americans think that the creation of “too-big-to-fail” mega banks is good for anyone other than fat cats on Wall Street? For those of you who have been “merged” into banking with an institution that doesn’t know you and takes you for granted, consider coming home to a local bank that cares about the same things you care about.
Weymouth Bank. 120 years of continuous service to the community. * Banks with assets exceeding $10 billion • Source: FDIC–Deposits of All FDIC-Insured Institutions (June 2008)
744 Broad Street • Weymouth, MA 02189 Tel: 781.337.8000 51 Columbian Street • Weymouth, MA 02190 781.337.8000 83 Summer Street • Kingston, MA 02364 781.585.1000
WWW.WEYMOUTHBANK.COM
Quincy
8 Fra nklin Stree t
617.770.6360
IF YOU NEED TO FEED IT, WE HAVE IT!
Pet & Bird Food WILD BIRD Farm Supplies HORSE Nursery & Greenhouse DOG Lawn & Garden CAT Organic Materials CHICKEN PIG Your Yard, Garden & Pet Place! GOAT Open 7 Days • Year Round SHEEP Mon-Sat 8am-6pm DUCK Sunday 9am-5pm GOOSE 90 Long Pond Road FISH Plymouth, MA 02360
508.746.0970
www.morrisonshomeandgarden.com www.ediblesouthshore.com
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liquid Assets
Jim’s Organic Coffee:
Organically Grown Abroad, Conscientiously Roasted Locally by Kate Strassel
I
t would not surprise me to discover that Jim Cannell, the owner, founder, and operator of Jim’s Organic Coffee, has coffee flowing through his veins. He began his career in the coffee industry as a trader on Wall Street in the 1980s, where he noticed a developing trend towards organic coffees. In 1992, Jim left the commodity world to start his own organic roasting company. After four years and a merger with a larger company, Jim decided he preferred doing things his own way and launched Jim’s Organic Coffee in 1996. Entering the small, unassuming front office located in an industrial park in West Wareham, one would never guess that a full-scale roasting and distribution facility was in full swing in the back of the building. When I mentioned this to Jim, he laughed. “We quietly get a lot of coffee cranked out of this place,” he said. Jim’s excitement and pride in his product were clearly evident in his smile as he talked about the company and the various ways Jim’s supports organic farming, fair trade, and sustainability. Beginning with the beans themselves, Jim’s sources and roasts only organic coffee beans—in fact, Jim was the first to roast organic beans in the United States. Not only does organic coffee provide a cleaner, more flavorful cup of coffee, but organic farming increases biodiversity and protects the health of the farmers and their communities. All of Jim’s coffee is also shade grown. This means that the coffee trees are interplanted with taller species such as banana and mahogany trees that provide a leaf canopy which shades and protects the topsoil around the coffee trees, reducing erosion as well as providing critical habitat for tropical birds. Because the taste and quality of the coffee is the company’s number one priority, Jim sources his coffee beans only from farmers and cooperatives that practice sustainable organic farming methods. In return,
32 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Jim pays higher prices for these premium beans, enabling farmers to support their families and their communities. While all of Jim’s Organic Coffee is fairly traded, the company does not adhere to any single fair trade certification, instead choosing to purchase coffees based upon the flavor and character of the beans. In the case of Jim’s coffees, the absence of the Fair Trade seal on the bags does not mean the absence of a commitment to taste, quality, and sustainability. Sourcing only organic coffees might seem like it goes far enough towards protecting the environment, but here too, Jim has taken things one step further. Jim’s is among the first coffee roasters to use sealed, one-way valve coffee bags lined with PLA (polylactic acid), a resin made from corn starch. PLA is biodegradable, fully compostable, requires 65 percent less energy to manufacture than conventional oil-based plastics, generates 68 percent fewer greenhouse gasses, and is toxin-free. Jim’s also supplies its wholesale bakery and café customers with PLA-lined paper coffee cups made from renewable resources such as trees grown in responsibly managed forests. To reduce the carbon footprint of its operations, Jim’s purchases offsets from Sterling Planet to compensate for the company’s electric and gas use. Jim’s website offers a wealth of information pertaining to organic farming, sustainability, and environmental responsibility, but the company prefers to remain “under the radar” when it comes to boasting about their admirable business practices, choosing instead to keep the coffee itself in the spotlight. Jim Cannell also strives to support the Wareham community as much as possible. The company has donated coffee to be served at school plays and coffee gift baskets for raffles to benefit local charities. But Jim never forgets the farmers who work so hard to supply
“Beginning with the beans themselves, Jim’s sources and roasts only organic coffee beans— in fact, Jim was the first to roast organic beans in the United States.” him with exceptional coffee beans, and he continuously works to support specific projects in the regions where he has forged relationships. A noteworthy example of such a project is the Jim’s Organic Coffee Library in Guatemala. From 2002 through 2007, the project used a percentage of the proceeds from the sale of Jim’s Holiday Blend coffee to improve the school classrooms and to build a school library in the village of Atitlan. With the school and library both now self-sustaining, Jim’s has chosen to focus on helping the Good Samaritan Orphanage in Mbeya, Tanzania, an institution that oversees the care and education of children whose parents have been lost to HIV/AIDS. Five percent of the sales from the 2009 Holiday Blend, a mix of Tanzanian Peaberry and Mbeya region AA coffees, will be donated to the orphanage. Even in these challenging economic times, Jim’s customers have remained faithful to their coffee, always eager to try out
new flavors and blends. “Coffee is still a relatively inexpensive pleasure,” Jim said. “It’s a great value for the product.” Jim’s Organic Coffee offers consumers a variety of rich, full-flavored coffees that offer a clean cup of coffee with a clear conscience. In other words, it’s the perfect blend. Jim’s Organic Coffee can be found locally in bakeries, cafés, gourmet food shops, and select Whole Foods Markets as well as online through Jim’s website. Check out their website for a complete list of retailers.
Jim’s Organic Coffee 21 Patterson Brook Road West Wareham, MA 02576 (800) 999-9218 www.jimsorganiccoffee.com
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edible Environment
A Greener Kind Of Clean by Rachel Vidoni
T
he seasonal enemy of the epidermis has arrived, yet we’re never prepared. If the cold wind and temperatures don’t wreak enough havoc on your skin this winter, it’s a sure bet that the hot, dry indoor air will finish it off, leaving you feeling like an over-baked pie crust. So consider using the break in the growing season this winter to pamper yourself with luscious, moisturizing natural bar soaps and body washes. You’ve probably seen them at farmers’ markets—bundles of colorful rectangles tied in raffia, or simply labeled with brown paper or cellophane. Perhaps you’ve been skeptical of the ingredients and wonder if that natural soap will leave you smelling clean and fresh. “All of our soaps are rich in fragrance, using a combination of essential and fragrance oils. They contain no animal fats or detergents, but wonderful ingredients like sweet almond oil, shea butter, and oatmeal,” says Cyndi Jacobs, owner of the Drippie Hippie Soap Company. They have over 21 hippie soap scents including Woodstock, Whine Bag, and Shiney Hiney. For those with sensitive skin, naturally made soaps offer a chemical-free clean. “Our company’s mission is to provide people with a natural product that will clean and moisturize your skin without exposure to harsh chemicals such as sodium laurel sulfate,” says Carolyn Cabe, one of the owners of Earth Sisters Farm in Rochester, Massachusetts. Carolyn and her sister Heidi Bussiere make organically-scented soaps using olive, coconut, and palm oil and fragrances such as lavender, chamomile, and herbs. Carolyn started making natural soaps 18 years ago after the birth of her first daughter. “It just didn’t seem right to expose such new skin to all the chemicals in your average over-the-counter baby washes,” she said. Their most popular soap is an all-natural shampoo bar, made from shea butter, jasmine wax, and chamomile and lavender essential oils. For Beth Worster of Sacred Acres Healing Arts in Easton, Massachusetts, making small batches of natural soaps was a way to use farm surplus and support other local suppliers. “My first products were a spritz and then sunflower soap,” says Beth. “It was then I discovered the demand for handmade soap created with natural scents and ingredients. I buy soap making supplies from an herbal wholesaler in Cohasset, healing herbs from Florence, honey from the Berkshires and Rhode Island, and goat’s milk from Bridgewater.” In addition to bar soap, Sacred Acres also offers a delicious variety of liquid shampoo/bodywash combos packaged in recyclable plastic bottles. 34 | edible south shore Winter 2009/2010
Drippie Hippie Soaps If you’re more the hands-on type, Earth Sisters and Sacred Acres both offer soap making classes for groups of 2 or more. The cost of the classes varies with the number of people and the project selected. You’ll be able to design and create your own soap and leave with soap making facts and history and the know-how to create beautiful bars at home. That’s a squeaky clean you can feel green about. Where To Find: Drippie Hippie Soap Company (508) 208-4487 Find the soaps at: Alderbrook Farm, Dartmouth Oakdale Farm, Rehoboth Allandale Farm, Brookline Seraphim Tea & More, Seekonk Earth Sisters Natural Soap and Candles (508) 577-2152 www.earthsistersherbals.com Find the soaps at: Lee’s Supermarket, Westport How on Earth, Mattapoisett Down to Earth, New Bedford The Market at the Pinehills, Plymouth Tihonet Village, Wareham Sacred Acres Healing Arts (781) 858-1428 www.sacredacreshealingarts.com Find the soaps at: Easton Farmers’ Market Saturdays, May-October 10 am-2 pm On-line through Web site
Clean like an Old Maid by Rachel Vidoni
DISCOVER All that is local in eastern massachusetts Celebrating the Abundance of Plymouth & Bristol Counties, Season by Season
the story on fresh, local food
Number 14 Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season Fall 2009
no.14 fall 2009
In 2003 Old Maids, Inc. was born. A company dedicated to “healthy, safe, non-toxic house cleaning products,” Olde Maids has products ranging from glass cleaner made with green and black tea to laundry powder. While they aren’t giving up their recipes, Nancy and Marsha say that their products are hand made in small batches using ingredients you might find in your grandmother’s kitchen cabinets. “We label our own bottles, create all our products, and fill the bottles and bags ourselves,” says Marsha. Still, creating homemade cleaners from scratch using trial and error isn’t always easy. “Using poison-free products takes work. Chemical products work also, but you give up your skin, lungs, and kidneys. It doesn’t sound like a fair exchange to the Olde Maids.”
tm
raw milk ✦ save the planet: eat cider donuts ✦ mppu: you can take it with you
L
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edible boston
edible SOUTH
eave it to two Olde Maids to break out their natural cleaning products and clean us right under the table. Longtime friends Nancy Boutin and Marsha Hartley have spent the better part of 20 years cleaning houses for families all over southeastern Massachusetts. Tired of using chemical products that were harsh and damaging, Nancy and Marsha decided to get back to basics and create their own natural cleaners—ones that actually work.
Member of Edible Communities
Member of Edible Communities
Subscribe to edible South Shore, edible Boston and edible Cape Cod today and save! Usually each one-year subscription (4 issues) costs $32. If you purchase a subscription for all three, you pay only $75. A savings of $21.00!
To suscribe, go to www.ediblesouthshore.com, www.edibleboston.net or www.ediblecapecod.com or complete the form below and mail it with a check payable to edible South Shore in the amount of $75.00 to: 15 Evergreen Street, Kingston, MA 02364 Name: __________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________ City: ________________________ State: _____ Zip Code: __________ e-mail: __________________________________________________
You can find Olde Maid products at the following stores: Lloyd’s Market, Rochester; Marion General Store, Marion; Earth Sisters, Rochester; Bev Loves Books, Rochester; Foster Hardware, Lakeville; How On Earth, Mattapoisett; Lees Market, Westport; Cronig’s Market, Martha’s Vineyard; and online at www.oldemaidsinc.com.
Olde Maids Inc. Box 372 Rochester, MA 02770 (508) 763-5181 www.oldemaidsinc.com
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Want to know what’s brewing in Brooklyn, sautéing in San Francisco, appetizing in Austin or hatching in Hawaii? Get the best authentic food stories directly from the fields and kitchens of its edible communities.
Subscribe online to any edible magazine by clicking on the “Edible Publications” page at www.ediblecommunities.com and select the magazine of your choice. Stay up to the minute on all things edible with Facebook and Twitter, or for delicious seasonal recipes visit our blog at ediblestories.com.
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Advertisers’ Directory
Find edible South Shore
magazine at these fine establishments
Alfredo Aiello italian foods, Inc. The finest in Italian foods, prepared in your kitchen. 8 Franklin Street Quincy, MA 02169 (617) 770-6360 72 Washington Street Norwell, MA 0206 (781) 878-2500 www.aapasta.com AMERICA’S HOMETOWN TAX SERVICE Complete tax preparation and planning. 78 Main Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 582-9930 (800) 287-9495 www.hometowntaxservice.com ARTISAN KITCHEN Offering the best in homemade pastries, breads, cupcakes, wedding and specialty cakes. 265 Walnut Plain Road Rochester, MA 02770 (508) 763-4905 www.theartisankitchen.com AVANT GARDENS Nursery/Greenhouses Classes/Workshops Consultation/Design 710 High Hill Road Dartmouth, MA 02747 (508) 998-8819 www.avantgardensNE.com BONGI’S TURKEY ROOST Native grown farm fresh turkeys. Rte. 53 - (Across from Tarkiln Ctr.) Duxbury, MA 02332 (781) 585-2392 www.bongis.com
BOSTON UNIVERSITYMETROPOLITAN COLLEGE Programs in food, wine, and the arts. (617) 353-9852 www.bu.edu/foodandwine BOSTON WINE EXPO Wines from all over the world. Seaport World Trade Center Boston, MA www.wineexpoboston.com BRADFORD’S MEATSHOP Unique shop specializing in premium quality meats. 644 Washington Street (Rte. 53 - Across from Starland) Hanover, MA 02339 (781) 826-3100 www.bradfordsmeatshop.com BRIDGEWATER FARM SUPPLY CO., INC. Wholesale and retail farm, garden, landscape, and environmental supplies. 1000 Plymouth Street Bridgewater, MA 02324 (508) 697-1995 www.bridgewaterfarm.com COMMONSENSE FOODMARKET & BLUE BLINDS BAKERY CommonSense Food Market A wholesome food market. 53 Main Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 732-0427 www.commonsensemarket.com
Blue Blinds Bakery Artisan Breads, Soups & Teas. Fresh Bakery Fare. 7 North Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 747-0462
A Note to our readers:
DOWN TO EARTH NATURAL FOODS
The invaluable support of these trusted resources helps to sustain and grow edible South Shore. Please endeavor to support them.
751 Kempton Street New Bedford, MA 02740 (508) 996-1995
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For people and pets.
www.downtoearthnaturalfoods.com
EMPIRE WINE & SPIRITS Fine wine, beer, liquor, cigars, lottery. Special orders welcome!. Summer Hill Plaza (Stop & Shop Plaza) Route 3A Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 422-9999 www.uncorkedonline.com
FARMCOAST Explore New England Farms & Villages www.farmcoast.com Fedele’s Hand Dipped Chocolates Small delicious batches are made daily and are always fresh. Anderson Plaza 95 Church Street, Pembroke, MA 02359 (781) 826-0669 Village Landing Marketplace 170 Water Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 746-8907 www.fedelesChocolates.com
FOODIE’S MARKET Offering a selection unsurpassed by even the biggest supermarkets at competitive prices. Two Locations: • Foodie’s Duxbury Market 46 Depot Street Duxbury, MA 02332 (781) 934-5544 • Foodie’s Urban Market 421 Washington Street South End Boston, MA 02118 (617) 266-9911 www.foodies-urban-market.com
GO GREEN WEB DIRECTORY An on-line green business directory and community. P.O. Box 388 Marshfield, MA 02050 (877) 304-4493 www.gogreenwebdirectory.com
How on Earth – The Store Featuring foods and items produced by local farmers and artisans. 62 Marion Rd (Route 6) Mattapoisett, MA 02739 (508) 758-1341 www.howonearth.net
PILLSBURY FLORIST Full service florist and custom specialty food baskets. Delivery available. Two Locations: • 685 N.Bedford Street Route 18 East Bridgewater, MA 02333 (508) 378-8141 • 506 N. Elm Street West Bridgewater, MA 02379 (508) 583-6587 www.pillsburygourmet.com
LINDSEY’S FAMILY RESTAURANT Featuring locally grown produce and fresh caught seafood. 3138 Cranberry Highway Rte. 6 & 28 East Wareham, MA 02538 PLIMOTH PLANTATION (508) 759-5544 & cinema www.lindseysfamilyrestaurant.com Satisfy your craving for cultural cuisine, first-run films, worldclass living history. MARGUERITE’S HEALTHY VETERINARY 137 Warren Avenue Fresh ingredients, fresh air, ALTERNATIVES fresh food. Plymouth, MA 02360 Acupuncture & Natural Holistic (508) 746-1622 Healing Treatments for Animals. 778 Main Road www.plimoth.org Dr. Mark Russo Westport, MA 02790 HEALTHY ANIMAL A health food store for pets, offering all-natural and high quality pet products. Town Line Plaza 808 Washington Street (Rte. 53) Pembroke, MA 02359 (781) 826-9760 www.thehealthyanimal.com
Kingston Animal Hospital 192 Main Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 585-6525
(508) 636-3040 www.margueritesrestaurant.com MARTHA’S STONE SOUP
PLYMOUTH FARMERS’ MARKET www.plymouthfarmersmarket.org
www.healthyveterinaryalternatives.com From Homestyle to Haute
Cuisine—where 90% or more of all ingredients are certified organic and locally sourced. HEAVENLY MESSENGERS & HEART OF REIKI CENTER 517 Old Sandwich Road Plymouth, MA 02360 A sanctuary for learning and healing. (508) 224-8900 720 Washington Street www.marthasstonesoup.com College Park Hanover, MA 02339 MORRISON’S (781) 871-1740 HOME AND GARDEN www.heartofreiki.com
HOLISTIC & REALISTIC HEALTH & WELLNESS A holistic and realistic approach to health and happiness. Noelle Armstrong (508) 245-9716 (508) 697-9824 www.holisticandrealistic.com
Serving the region’s agricultural community for over 35 years— from professional grower to the homeowner. 90 Long Pond Road Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 746-0970 www.morrisonshomeandgarden.com
NORTHEAST FAMILY FARM Creating a supply chain between the farmer and the chef. Sustainably raised lamb, pork, beef, poultry, cheeses, produce. (800) 777-2648 www.northeastfamilyfarms.com
STRAWBERRY FAIR RESTAURANT Olde-Fashioned Goodness served in a charming New England farmhouse. 14 Pond Street Norwell, MA 02061 (781) 878-7878 www.thestrawberryfair.com THANKSGIVING CELEBRATION & FOOD FESTIVAL (508) 746-1818 www.usathanksgiving.com THE MARKET AT PINEHILLS At The Market, we proudly support local businesses. Life is Delicious! 6 Purchase Street Plymouth, MA 02360 (508) 209-0000 www.themarketpinehills.com THE WINERY 53 615 Washington Street Rt. 53 Pembroke, MA 02359 (781) 826-2532 www.winery53.com WEYMOUTH BANK Your Community Bank. Keeping it Local! • 744 Broad Street, Weymouth, MA 02189 (781) 337-8000
SEMAP Southeastern Massachusetts Agricultural Partnership One State Bog Road East Wareham, MA 02538 (508) 295-2212 x50 www.semaponline.org
• 151 Columbian Street Weymouth, MA 02190 (781) 337-8000 • 83 Summer Street Kingston, MA 02364 (781) 585-1000 www.WeymouthBank.com
WHOLE FOODS MARKET Selling the highest-quality A restaurant that is modern & earthy natural & organic food and with food to “nourish the soul.” products. 150 North Street 94 Derby Street Hingham, MA 02043 Hingham, MA 02043 (781) 740-4060 (781) 741-8050 www.thesquarecafe.com www.wholefoodsmarket.com Square Café
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Massachusetts-Grown Produce Availability Calendar JA
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