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EDITÉUR PLUS
PLUS
The F i f t eent h Issue I am I am FASHION
We give you the insight into the winner of the New Talent Search competition with SAFW.
SAFW
We share with you some of our favourite looks of the runway at South African Fashion Week.
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EDITÉUR STAFF
PLUS
EDITOR & FOUNDER
LEEROY ESBEND
CRE ATIVE D IREC TO R
LEEROY ESBEND
HEAD WRITER
BEKIWE HLONGWANE
TEAM MEMBERS
STÉPHAN WEILBACH JOSHUA MCQUIRK JO-ANN MCQUIRK KIMBERLY GROSSMANN CHELSEA PITT MARC DAVIS CONTRIBUTORS
EMILE LIME, HENRY MARSH, SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION WEEK, OCEAN HIDE, SELVEDGE CLOTHING, JASIME CLOTHING, JON, SUNGLASS HUT, ASHLEY HEATHER, FAMKE, WANDERER, TYRONE NELL, SOCIAL MEDIA
INSTAGRAM: @EDITEUR_PLUS TWITTER: @EDITEUR_PLUS FACEBOOK: EDITÉUR PLUS LO CATIO N
SOUTH AFRICA WEBSITE
WWW.EDITEURPLUS.COM
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FROM THE EDITOR
HI
and thank you for ready Editéur Plus online magaizne. I am truly grateful for all the traction this publication has gotten for the past two years. Yes, Editúr Plus is only turning two in December and we have a really nice treat for all of you.
As you all noticed, there was not an October issue, due to some changes in the team as well as some changes in terms of the platforms we use etc... I am please to announce the new website www.editeurplus.com. We have created a really beautiful platform that reflects who Editúr Plus is and so much more. If you have designs, press releases, photograohy, anything creative that you would like to shouwcase, email us on info@ editeurplus.co.za. Thank you to everyone who reads and if you’re new, welcome. Be sure to check out the social media contacts of our many contributors. I encourage you to engage with them. I am grateful for all who have contributed to this issue, I value your work immensely. To all our readers, feel free to connect with us on social media. Welcome to Editéur Plus “L’inspiration à travers la vision.”
BEST REGARDS Leeroy Esbend
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CONTENTS
FASHION 8
N E W TA L E N T S E A R C H Chelsea Pitt
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JASMINE CLOTHING Chelsea Pitt
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T YN E LL U N D E RWE AR
S E LV E D G E Bekiwe Hlongwane
I N FO R M ATI O N 3
EDITORS LETTER By Leeroy Esbend
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C O N TA C T Connect with us on social media
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JEWELLERY 22
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A S H L E Y H E AT H E R Kimberly grossmann
ACCESSORIES
FA M K E
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OCEAN HIDE Stephan Weilbach
Bekiwe Hlongwane
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WA N D E R E R Bekiwe Hlongwane
EDITORIAL 39
JON-MARC
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As the definitive destination for the latest trends in premium eyewear with over 3000 retail spaces worldwide, Sunglass Hut has earned its credit for being at the forefront of fashion. As the curators of Luxury Fashion eyewear Sunglass Hut established a relationship with SAFW to support the local fashion industry in promoting up and coming design talent. The highlight for Sunglass Hut’s partnership with SA Fashion Week is the New Talent Search. Created by SA Fashion Week director, Lucilla Booyzen, the search is a platform for young designers to prove their ability to create a Collection that achieves the fine balance between commercial and aesthetic appeal. “One of the most difficult challenges for a start-up designer today, is the breakthrough to retail. A sure way for designers to fast track their careers is through entering fashion competitions. It pushes young businesses into the media spotlight which then leads to social media share of voice and in turn has an immediate effect on the growth of a young label”, says Booyzen. “It is our 3rd year partnering with SAFW and based on the growing number of entries year on year it is clear that this relationship has driven major interest and is a key platform aiding the development of South African fashion. We have been privileged and humbled by the opportunity to invest and help nurture the undoubted talent we have in this country” Earl Kopeledi, Marketing Manager for Sunglass Hut SA
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The prize that will put the New Talent Search winner on the map includes: • Representation by The Fashion Agent for 1 year • Show a collection at SA Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 • Access to SA Fashion Week Fashion Trade Event and Pop-Up shop • A trip to London Fashion Week, which includes a return ticket, accommodation, transfers and access to shows/exhibitions
SAFW Sunglass Hut New Talent Search “There are a lot of good voices that come out. We’ve got our own stories to tell, whether it’s music or art or fashion and the world is ready to embrace that.” Earl Kopeledi, Marketing Manager Sunglass Hut “ Since it’s establishment in, 1993 by South African fashion week, the New talent search competition has grown to showcase some of the most iconically innovative talent South Africa has to show. The competition has seen successors such as Jacques van set Watt of Black Coffee, Terrence Bray, Maya Prada and some of the more recent talent such as Roman Handt, David Tlale, Take Care, Anmari Honiball and Jenevieve Lyons. From 2016’s winner, Lumin, we were dazzled by their collection of brown African soil tones layered with deconstructed elements of spot colors and patterns that enhanced the simplicity of their construction. With high hopes for the future , judges -Aspasia Karras ( publisher for the The Times media magazine supplements ), Earl Kopeledi ( marketing manager for Sunglass Hut ) , Annette Pringle Kolsh ( The fashion Agent), Sandy Rogers ( trend analyst), Papama Ramogase ( founder and creative director, Butter Pudding) were impressed by what the new talent had to show. From an impressive 80 entries, the selection was narrowed down to 8 finalists. The portfolios were judged on professionalism, previous works, and garments presentation. The finalists were namely AGEO by Arnold Phasha, Kentse Masilo, Ipikoko, I Am , Danielle Frylinck Design, Liu Liu, Turner Studio, and MmusoMaxwell.
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The collections created from the submitted portfolios sketches and swatches included 7 complete ladies wears as a collection. These works were exhibited on models on the 18th of October in Sandton City where the garments were assessed on the finished construction, their use of textiles and the potential of their runway collection to be used in commercial retail streams and how the designers could communicate that through their interview. Sunglass Hut based in Cape Town with 140 outlets nationwide has been the official naming sponsor of the competition since 2015. With their final year in collaboration with the competition, they will be providing the winner with a prize of a full experience of London fashion week. The key thing is to provide the winner with the exposure at a large scale fashion week to gain skills and knowledge through workshops and behind the scenes access to get them inspired to put out a new collection and start their own businesses.
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WINNER OF THE NEW TALENT SEARCH 2017 - MMUSOMAXWELL “We definitely in a good place. Having met and spoken to the designers m. I think they definitely have their heads skewed on the right way. They get the beautiful combination of being a creative and having a business mind. That kind of puts me at ease “Papama begins. The 8 collections showed what Amber Grant in the trend report explains as conscious consumption where the focus on was on handcrafted pieces that praised the makers as well as revealed ethnical sourcing. With a majorly of the collections taking from personal experiences and inspirations from the designers own environment they demonstrated authenticity. The official opening show at fashion week on the 24th of October left the audience captivated As they indulged in the variety of the collections. An early judge favorite MmusoMaxwell was left in awe when announced that they were the official competition winners for South African Fashion Week Sunglass Hut New Talent Search 2017. The duo winners MmusoMaxwell collection showcased the innovative use of simplistic and inexpensive textiles in combination with higher priced fabrics that provided a comprehensive variety of neutral tones with balancing dark palette combination. Their inspiration is drawn from a “makhoti” which means wife. Their aim was to create a collection that caters for the modern wife getting married, affordable but still maintaining sophistication. The collaboration between Sunglass Hut and South African fashion week has been a huge success. The announcement of the new sponsor as well as what the new talent will have in store for us next year is much awaited
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For more details on the Sunglass Hut New Talent Search 2017, please visit: http:// www.safashionweek.co.za For more information on SA Fashion Week please contact: Sandy Kass – 011 442 7812 media@safashionweek.co.za About Sunglass Hut www.sunglasshut.com Sunglass Hut is the biggest sunglass specialty retailer in the world with more than 3000 retail locations. With a global reputation for premium sunglass brands, Sunglass Hut offers the latest designer brands along with outstanding customer service. Sunglass Hut stores are located throughout the United States, Canada, the Caribbean, Latin and South America, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Middle East and South Africa.
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ASHLEY HEATHER An article written by Kimberly Grossmann
“I believe in creating. I believe in quality. I believe in honesty to materials. I believe in doing things differently. I believe companies can do more, be more.” Ashley Heather incorporates this passion in all of her designs and creations. Jewellery, proudly South African - hand-crafted using age-old silversmithing techniques combined with contemporary designs. From a young age, Ashley Heather has always known her passion lies in creating, although she stumbled upon jewellery making by accident after visiting a friend who just happened to be melting a crucible full of silver. From then on, she was hooked. Not only is the jewellery exquisitely beautiful, but they are also manufactured with recyclable materials – with the silver and gold reclaimed from circuit boards. Ashley Heather states this to be one of the most exciting parts, along with the design, the manufacture and even the hours and hours of admin that go into running a small business. “I truly believe that sustainable materials need to be supported by good quality design and uncompromising craftmanship otherwise we are just filling the market with more ‘stuff’ to contribute to our ‘throwaway culture’,” Heather speaks of how this passion for incorporating e-waste is part of her values and ethics. She states that she knew she wanted to work within the medium she loved, but without compromising her values. Heather’s jewellery is not for ‘one sort’ of person. She mentions that it is her greatest hope that their work resonates with many different people for many different reasons and that the idea of truly sustainable design can become a greater topic of conversation.
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“Jewellery is not going to change the world but hopefully we can encourage people to think a little more about the provenance of the things they buy after all our consumption patterns have very real environmental and social consequences.” However, with the journey of entrepreneurship, there will come moments when one can start looking for threats. Heather says she prefers to focus rather on what they do, doing it well and letting the world carry on around them. She says they are working very hard on stabilizing their access to a supply of e-waste, so the issue of a constant supply of materials does not slow them down. Ashely Heather is currently working on opening their first stand-alone store. “It will be a space dedicated to telling stories around sustainable design and the green economy”.
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ASHLEY HEATHER
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WWW.ASHLEYHEATHER.CO.ZA
ashleyheatherjewellery
info@ashleyheather.co.za EDITÉUR PLUS / THE FIFTEENTH ISSUE
@ashleyheatherjewellery
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WANDERER Written by Bekiwe Hlongwane
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We’ve all seen them before in airports, on trains, in board meetings. Sometimes we smell them before we see them. They are all around us and we can’t miss them: genuine leather bags and accessories. They are a feast for the senses, they conjure up emotional responses that leave us gasping and sighing, longingly and wanting to feel the texture. We’re drawn into the design and the colour and the way the bags fall comfortably and splendidly over the shoulder of their bearer. And then we go and buy the cheaper version because we are so-called ‘discerning bargain hunters’, but these counterfeits do not evoke the same emotions. Perhaps the days of cheap knockoffs are gone. Perhaps we should save a little extra and finally buy a bag that will stir up the wanderer within. As admirers of pure leather items, we need a reliable brand that will provide the genuine article: bags and accessories that will excite and inspire. We need to look no further than Wanderer Handcrafted Leather. Mariska Claassens, the founder of the Wanderer brand, is passionate about leather and adventure. ‘The brand draws inspiration from adventure-seeking individuals who are not afraid to wander.’ After her studies in Clothing Retail Management, Mariska did a course in leather crafting to hone her skills
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in this area. She had it in her mind to create a high-quality leather brand, turning a passion into a career. During that time, there was a mentor who influenced her thinking with regard to leather saying that an item can become an investment if it is well made and carefully crafted. The high value that Mariska puts on working well with leather and making the product as authentic as possible is what sets it apart from other products. ‘When I say handcrafted, I literally mean every single step in the construction of a Wanderer product is handcrafted.’ A process is followed to create each of the different items available on the online store. Each piece starts with an idea. Mariska carries her sketchbook around to make sure she does not miss an inspired moment. Through trial and error, and a consideration of what we the customers could appreciate, designs are chosen and then developed into physical products. The leather for each item is chosen to match its design. The leather is cut and constructed by hand. It is notable that every Wanderer bag and accessory is meticulously stitched by hand to using the ‘saddle stitch’ method. This creates an aesthetically pleasing item and ensures the product’s durability, an
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aspect that is prioritised by the brand. This furthermore makes each item unique. ‘Each design is individually handcrafted from start to finish [to ensure] exclusivity.’ Mariska enjoys this process, particularly the feeling of completing an item. ‘After the entire process each design feels like a piece of art.’ Durability, she says, makes leather an exceptional material to work with in this age where things don’t last as long.
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Mariska names some of her bags and accessories after explorers and adventurers who have gone before like Henry Hudson, the English explorer. Her favourite among these is the Livingston, a travel bag. It is close to her heart because of the exciting potential adventures that the bag could go on and it also happens to be the first item that she sold. Being in a supportive family is one of the things that has brought Mariska and the Wanderer brand to where they are today. ‘I can’t even begin to describe the major role their encouragement played in where the brand is today and the places where it will go.’ Mariska would encourage young, aspiring designers to learn the proper way of designing with the materials and fabrics that you want to use. She says that although there are many ways to work with leather, there are few that create long-lasting, high-quality products. She would also say, ‘Just go for it.’ As humans, we have a tendency to overthink things and find reasons why plans and dreams will not work. She believes that if you are passionate about something then you should go for it, you’ll find that you can make it work. Hard work and determination are what took Wanderer from being an idea in Mariska’s head to an online store that caters for a variety of tastes and styles both locally and abroad. Much time was spent building Wanderer’s reputation on social media so that it could be known as an authentic, pure brand. ‘There are definitely plans for expanding into new areas as the brand is growing,’ says Mariska as she reflects the coming months and years. A project she hopes to take on in the future is one where she teaches local women to work with leather, giving them the skills she has. Training those who are unlikely to afford higher education is a truly valuable and sustainable investment into the community. Though there is a temptation for us as customers in this economic climate to buy cheaper products, experience with those products has taught us that they do not provide value for money in the long run. As Mariska continues to make high quality, handcrafted leather items, followers, fans and admirers of the brand will do well to choose Wanderer products. As Vivienne Westwood says, ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last,’ and with the quality promised by the Wanderer brand, products will do nothing less than endure into the future.
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WWW.WANDERERHANDCRAFTED.CO.ZA
Wandererhandcrafted
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@wanderer_handcrafted
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Jon-Marc Luppnow Full Circle Model Management
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43 HEIGHT - 185CM CHEST - 99CM WAIST - 76CM COLLAR - 38CM SHOE - 44.5 EU HAIR - DARK BROWN EYES - BLUE/GREEN
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jluppnow@gmail.com
@jxnmarc
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Written by Bekiwe Hlongwane
When clicking through web pages searching for jewellery one is met with large corporations that are selling mass produced items that reflect little about the personality of the designers or possess qualities that make them stand out from other items. If jewellery does meet a high quality and design standard, then it is priced to be exclusive and inaccessible. Enter Famke Jewellery Design and Manufacture. The Black Aventurine necklace. The Curved Chevron ring. These are the inventive names you will be met with when you visit the Famke online jewellery store. Meticulous care and precision are exercised in the creation of each jewellery item and each piece is priced to reflect quality while being accessible to a range of tastes and budgets. Behind this brand is the dynamic and quirky Famke Koene who, with a determined team of three people, makes each of the timeless and elegant jewellery items herself. Every single piece of jewellery is crafted by hand from scratch at their studio in Cape Town. Every. Single. Piece. New designs are born at the manufacturing bench and seldom designed on paper first. New pieces are inspired by old pieces creating consistency within the brand. It was during her third year of studying that she decided that working for someone else was not for her and started thinking about how to start her own business. She jumped at the opportunity to present her brand free of charge at the Emerging Creatives Programme through the Design Indaba. ‘Nothing is certain in the very beginning,’ Famke says as she remembers how the brand started. ‘It took my life.’ Many hours of crafting jewellery and even
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more hours doing administrative work have been poured into the brand since its inception five years ago. Though other aspects of her life have had to take the back seat in this time, Famke feels that the sacrifices she has made are worth it because she is working towards something she is passionate about. The simple yet elegant logo was created by best friend and designer Cassandra Johnston of Cassandra Leigh Design and accurately represents the simplicity and elegance of the brand. For any creative person, admin can be quite a challenge. It takes up more of a day than one plans, but Famke manages this by sticking to her to do lists and keeping a daily diary. She also aims gets the admin out of the way in the morning as far as she can so that she can spend afternoons focused on creating new pieces. Famke’s family has been an integral part of the development of her brand. ‘They have always been very supportive and honest. Constructive criticism is hard to take, but very much needed!’ Her words to those aspiring to design jewellery of their own are simple: ‘Keep your head up!’ When moments in life get you down and the pace is too fast for you to keep up, take a breath and carry on, and don’t panic. ‘Panic never got anyone anywhere!’ When she’s not making jewellery, Famke is experimenting with different textures and colours in the kitchen cooking up a storm exploring new foods and flavours. She also enjoys spending time with her husband and their dog exploring the mountains. EDITÉUR PLUS / THE FIFTEENTH ISSUE
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Looking forward, Famke would love to work with Dutch designer Maarten Baas because of his range of burnt furniture. ‘I think combining the sleek, shiny metal against the raw, imperfect wood could be an exciting contrast.’ Coming out from the shadow of commercial and high-priced jewellery is Famke Jewellery Designs and Manufacture. If you are not convinced by the unique design of each item, then perhaps you may be swayed by the fact that Famke also offers a re-plating service at no additional charge. The future of jewellery design belongs to brands that create innovative pieces and are willing to go the extra mile to keep their products in mint condition, even after their sold.
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WWW.FAMKE.CO.ZA Famke Jewllery Design
@famkejewellery
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TYNELL UNDERWEAR The struggle has always been real to find underwear that still feels comfortable after a few hours of wear. In our quest to design underwear that deliver on quality as well as comfort, we arrived at our ethos; Fit. Feel. Freedom. Wear the Fit. Feel the quality. Experience the Freedom. The TYNELL Signature Range comes in two styles – briefs and brieftrunks and we will soon be releasing our trunk style. Our Limited Editions have exquisite prints that vary from pair to pair. We have released a limited number of pairs as part of our first range and each pair has been handmade from specially selected fabric that feels light and soft against your body. #DressToUndress To celebrate the launch of TYNELL we collaborated with international film and commercial producer, Renier Ridgeway from Silverlining Pictures and one of South Africa’s most acclaimed music video directors, Kyle Lewis, to produce our first brand video.
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WWW.TYNELL.CLOTHING
thetynellstore
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JASMINE CLOTHING Story: Chelsea Pitt
Compassionate, feminine and classically sensual, that is what every woman wants out of a dress. Eloise Marais takes retro and transforms it into pieces that exemplify the nostalgia of the past. Founder of jasmine studio and growing fashion designer, Eloise grew up in Pretoria attending Afrikaans Hoër Meisieskool and then later went to what is now known as Vega school of Design. Finding her love for fashion since the age of 12 she has gone on to reach great heights, with her pop up being exhibited at the SAFW pop up in Brooklyn, Pretoria recently. “Some of my earliest memories are of me waiting in anticipation for every new Barbie movie to come out, not because I’m that excited for the story, but because I was excited to see what new dresses she was going to wear this time.” Jasmine design studios is founded on the on the woman trying to prove herself in a ‘man’s
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world’, and how the aesthetic of the woman is lost in favor feminism. She takes this element and creates collections that radiant playfulness which women can feel beautiful and powerful in. Inspired by old Hollywood she creates collections that spark smiles on her customers faces. Sometimes her inspiration, however, sparks from nature or even people such as for her spring collection at the SAFW pop up, where her inspiration came from all things floral. Her materials range from lightweight stretch fabrics to even t-shirt fabrics, constantly challenging herself she keeps her designs elaborate to create balance between the simplicity of the material and the design. Love simplistic, elegant pieces that take you back to a less complicated time then make sure you have one of Eloise’s pieces in your closet.
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WWW.JASMINEFDS.CO.ZA jasminefds
@jasmine_fds
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S E LV E D G E Story: Bekiwe Hlongwane
Each time I saw Dino Perotti at SA Fashion Week, he was wearing Selvedge, and he looked good. It’s always good to see someone with faith in their own brand. The aim of the brand is to provide men with clothes that give them the edge as they confront and overcome the challenges that modern life presents to them. The range of fitted shirts and trendy jackets do make men stand out in a crowded room. Selvedge clothing is both stylish and comfortable. It is valuable while being accessible to every man. As South Africans shoppers begin to choose quality local brands over cheap, factory-made foreign brands from the Far East, growth is on the horizon for the Selvedge brand. The sustainable approach they have taken in their supply chain means that they design South African fashion for the South African man. Follow the remarkable Dino family and the Selvedge brand as they continue to write the future of trendy South African menswear.
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WWW.SELVEDGE.CO.ZA
Selvedge.men
@selvedge_mensclothing EDITÉUR PLUS / THE FIFTEENTH ISSUE
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OCEAN HIDE Story: Stephan Weilbach
Emile Maree is the son of Shirley Schmidt who came up with the idea of making leather out of fish skins in South Africa. Emile has a background in business development, and when the opportunity arose to run his own business he quit his job to develop this opportunity further. Ocean Hide was conceptualised when Shirley Schmidt, the owner, and her team were researching sustainable fish farming and came across fish leather. Emile then researched and collaborated with a local leather tanner to further develop the product to a workable material as is used in their products today. For Emile his biggest influence from the fashion industry would be opportunity, “There is so much opportunity in the fashion industry which really drives me on a day to day basis. Every avenue that doesn’t work out seems to open two new
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ones.” And his drive for success would be best put in his own words; “It’s a sink or swim world being in business. As much as my goal of running a business that employs people, turns a profit and provides unique products drives me, so does the prospect of failure.” They are still a young company, only 9 months old, so their projects are still mostly current. They started their brand by collaborating with a local accessories designer to have a few bags and wallets made up and they are still working with the same designer for these items. They then moved into the shoe and jewellery industry and collaborated with a shoe company and small jeweller to have items made up. They are working on their first furniture piece which will hopefully be ready by early 2018, fingers crossed, and after a few décor items.
To them the material comes first as designs are chosen to highlight the material seen as only certain designs really showcase the fish leather and its unique texture. With regards to their fish leather, they currently use Salmon skins which are tanned and then dyed into various colours. The materials used to accompany/showcase the fish leather are then selected based on matching colours and highlighting the texture of the fish leather. Their designers are the brainchildren of their creations mostly, although Emile has a say in which designs are chosen to be developed. Seen as they repurpose fish skins, which are off-cuts from the fishing industry, into fish leather, they are defined by sustainability. They are also pro empowerment. They like to work with small, growing businesses where possible and businesses/designers that empower their staff. Ocean Hide is a small and growing business and they want to work with
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other likeminded designers so that they can grow together. EDITÉUR PLUS They preach sustainability and encourage their designers to utilise every piece of material so as to minimise their waste wherever possible. The process of creating fish leather is rather fascinating, Emile is excited by the entire process, seen as it is something so often overlooked as being a durable leather product, eaten in restaurants even. To start the process they source the fish skins from an importer in Cape Town. The skins are then transported to Uitenhage where they are put through a tanning process, mostly done by hand, and converted to crusts. These crusts are then dried and dyed to make fish leather. The fish leather is then taken to their bag designer who will take them with when purchasing calf or cow hides in order to highlight the fish leather and match the colour. The designs are then drawn up to best utilise the materials. These designs are cut out of cardboard at first to ensure no material wastage. Once the cardboard design has been assembled and approved the bag is ready to be made. The patterns are then cut out and the bag assembled and stitched by hand. Their design concepts come from combining a few different aspects: firstly market research; they look at what is selling and what is current, they also determine colour combinations from the same research. Then they add their own unique twist to each product whilst still ensuring three key factors: practicality, style and unique design. Their designers are scattered around the Western and Eastern Cape and design under the Ocean Hide brand, except for their shoes whom they collaborate with Bolton Footwear Group. We feel that our products are made a wide variety from different age groups to different ethnic groups. Emile’s favourite event is definitely SA Fashion Week, “They bring together new and old designers into one big showcase event.” His greatest success in his short fashion career to him has been to bring the different processes together, from the sourcing of materials to the tanning to the design, to produce a unique item. He is planning to turn his young, growing business into a success locally and then expand abroad. Advice that Emile gives people that are starting up something: “Play to your strengths and don’t be afraid to ask for help wherever you can. Persevere in attaining your goals.”
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The F i f t eent h Issue I am I am FASHION
We give you the insight into the winner of the New Talent Search competition with SAFW.
SAFW
We share with you some of our favourite looks of the runway at South African Fashion Week.
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