Geographical introduction

THE LEPINI MOUNTAINS

The ancient Roman Lepinus Mons, is an imposing mountain chain situated in the southern part of Lazio whose name originates from the Latin Lapis (stone) to indicate its compact mass nature characterized by white limestone which impressed the primitive inhabitants of Latium Vetus (Ancient Lazio). The Lepini Mountains together with the Ausoni and Aurunci Mountains make up the Antiappenines of Lazio, also called the “Catena dei Volsci”. This group is positioned between the provinces of Rome, Latina and Frosinone (the point of the three meets right on the Lepini, to be precise south of Fossa dei Felci at an altitude of roughly 1100m). On the north-west the Lepini mountains are separated by the Albani hills with the Arianna valley (Giulianello-Lariano-Valmontone), on the south-east by the Ausoni mountains with the Amaseno valley, and on the northeast by the Preappenines with the Sacco valley (valle Latina) and finally to the south by Monte Circeo and the Pontine marshes. The Lepino massif (which spreads across for roughly 800 square metres) consists of two parallel chains moving towards North-west and South-east, divided by the deep valleys of Rio, Casale and Pisciarello (tectonic line Montelan-

Wolf photographed on the 16 February 2019 near Sella del Semprevisa (© Petrella) 

ico-Carpineto-Maenza). The western chain is formed by two main mountain groups: to the north M.Lupone (1378 m) and to the south M. Semprevisa (1537 m) which is the highest summit of the Lepini mountains and all the Volsci (followed by M. Petrella 1533 m, on the Aurunci Mountains).

The western mountain chain begins to the north with the small subgroup of Colle Illirio (732m, above the commune of Artena) to which follow Punta della Melazza (1084 m), M. Lupone (1378 m), M. Perentile (1023 m), M. Caprea (1477 m), M. Ardicara (1447 m), M. Semprevisa (1537 m), M. Erdigheta (1342 m) and M. la Difesa (923 m, in the commune of Roccagorga). The eastern chain instead is formed by another two groups as well as a sub group situated east-south-east: north of the M.Malaina (1480m made up by the extended plains of Gorgsa), to the south-east lies M.Gemma (1474 m) and continuing along, the subgroup of M.Siserno (M. Campo Lupino 800m). This ridge, starts off north with Cima del Monte (983m, between the communes of Gorga and Sgurgola) to which follows Sprone Maraoni (1328 m), M. Pisciarello (1423 m), M. Malaina (1480 m), M. Gemma (1474 m), M. Cacume (1094 m, in an isolated position), C. Calvello (936 m) and finally the two peaks of the subgroup, that is M. Siserno and M. Campo Lupino (respectively 792 and 800 m, between the communes of Giuliano di Roma, Villa S. Stefano and Ceccano). As well as these, a series of minor reliefs extend between the western ridge and the lowlands of the Pontine Marshes forming the so called chain of the pre-Lepini, and that is the group of M. la Trinità (862 m, between Sermoneta, Bassiano and Sezze), M. Sant’Angelo (382m, between Roccagorga and Priverno) and finally, towards south, the one of M. Seiano (415 m, at Priverno). The chain of the Lepini mountains, as well as many small plateaus which make up the vast Plateau of Gorga (Piani del Lontro, Prati della Valle, Campo di Caccia, etc.) presents large closed depressions (polje, evident superficial karst phenomena) called “plains” of “fields”; among the most important: Campo di Segni, Campo di Montelanico (or plateau of Collemezzo), Pian della Faggeta (and its superior ramifications of Piani dell’Erdigheta) and Pian della Croce (or piana di S. Serena). The underground karst shapes are represented by caves and pools (holes, chasms and ponors), which are very numerous (the Lepini mountains are in fact one of the most interesting sites of Lazio in terms of speleology). Among the most important: Ouso di Passo Pratiglio (the deepest in Lazio, with its -840 m), Ouso della Rava Bianca (the second, in terms of depth, in Lazio) Grotta del Formale (the fourth longest in Lazio, with its 2920 m of total length), Abisso Consolini (-600 m of depth), etc. This imposing karst system causes these mountains to have no important water courses, this is because across the extended underground circulation, the meteoric waters are captured and then they go to feed the large springs situated especially along the western foothills. The superficial hydrological circulation is strictly linked to important weather events and all the water courses are of a seasonal-torrential regime.. Among the most important we remember il Rio (which leads into the river Sacco), Fosso di M.Acuto (Giuliano di Roma), il Fosso le Mole (channels the waters into Amaseno), Fosso della Valle (Bassiano), Fosso di Roccagorga and Valle (di Patrica). There are also many waterfalls which are often dry, the largest and worthy of note are: the waterfall of Sant’Angelo (often dry) situated near the hermitage of Sant’ Angelo in the commune of Morolo at an altitude of approximately 830 m; and the characteristic and spectacular water of Valle Naforte (there is water only after rainy periods or when the snow melts) positioned on the southern side of monte Semprevisa in the commune of Carpineto Romano at an altitude of 1020m while the copious waterfall of Rapiglio which comes from the Rapiglio cave in the commune of Carpineto Romano, at an altitude of roughly 850 m. The central part of the area offers a decent amount of water springs at altitude, often correlated with the presence of clay formations. They have a variable flow rate and some are subject to drying out during the summer season, and are strictly connected to precipitation. Among the highest: Fonte S. Antone 1005 m (Morolo), Acqua

valle Perti 1047 m (Maenza / Carpineto), Fonte della Formica 1070 m (Carpineto), Fontana Santa Serena 1105 m (Supino), Fontana Formella 1124 m (Gorga), Fontana Canai 1150 m (Gorga), Fonte Semisuvia 1150 m (Maenza), Acqua Mezzavalle 1214 m [undrinkable (Carpineto)], Bocca del Lupo 1235 m (Carpineto), Risorgenza San Marino 1270 m (Gorga), Fontana del Merlo 1321 m (Gorga), Fontana la Spina 1329 m (Supino), Sorgente del Pisciarello 1335 m (Morolo) and Fontana del Sambuco 1350 m (Carpineto). There are many wells, cisterns and a few ponds inside old dolines or in the karst fields where the red ground and/or tuff do not allow the water to percolate through. These are represented by very few, but characteristic mirrors of water: Stagni cava Valle del Canneto 110 m (Parco S. Martino Priverno), Laghetto dell’Antignana 380 m (Bassiano), lake of Pantano 690 m (Bassiano), lakes of Costa Pecci 700 m (Carpineto), stagno Pozzo di Monte 701 m (Norma), lake of Selva 715m (Norma), Laghetto Casalicchio 725m (Carpineto), Volubro di Collemezzo 730 m (Montelanico), stagno Pantana del Camenardo 748 m (Montelanico), lakes of Campo di Segni 835 - 839 m (Segni) and lake of Monte Ermo 1297 m (Sgurgola); (there was once the characteristic lake of Occhiali or delle Fosse at 1325 m in the commune of Morolo). The aquifer is fed by almost all the rain water which filters through inside its karst system, across cracks, ponors and other unknown systems. There are many fresh water and sulphurous springs in the foothills and the aquifers of the Pontine Marshes, which directly depend on the large karst system of the Lepini mountains. The most important are the Ninfa river, from the Monticchio water springs (from which the Cava-

ta river originates), from the water sources of the Mola dei Preti and Acquapuzza, Fosselloni and the Ufente river (which forms two lakes, Vescovo and Nero), Fontana del Muro and Pedicata. It is important to understand that the Lepini mountains are among the mountain groups with the highest biodiversity in Lazio, where there are corners of natural life to be admired in silence. The perfect symbol to witness all this is the fantastic Ninfa Gardens, which represents a natural monument of the Italian Republic and is protected by the WWF as an Oasis. The garden is situated in the territory of Cisterna di Latina, bordering with Norma and Sermoneta. It is a typical English garden, initiated by Gelasio Caetani in 1921, in the area which is the vanished medieval city of Ninfa, of which today only ruins remain, some of which were restored during the creation of the garden. The New York Times voted the Ninfa Gardens as the most beautiful and romantic garden in the world. But the Lepini mountains are also an open air archaeological park, which describe the presence of Prehistoric man, as well as that of dinosaurs. Briefly we can remind you of a few sites: Grotta Iolanda, Arnalo dei Bufali and the Cava (Palaeolithic settlements); Fosso Brivolco ex Petrianni quarry (Paleonthological site with dinosaur prints). Then there is the history of its dwellings, where numerous monuments from Roman or medieval eras live in harmony with nature, and allow one to experience past emotions. Among these areas it is important to remember: Polygonal Walls of Segni and Norba; The walls and Roman villa of Sezze; Via Appia; Civita di Artena; Civita di Privernum; the Temple of Hercules; The Abbey of Fossanova; the Abbey of Valvisciolo; the Castle Caetani of Sermoneta; the Castle of

One of the lakes at Campo di Segni (© Vona) 

Maenza, of Monte Acuto and the ones of Colonna di Morolo. In particular some castle ruins and towers on rocks are worth mentioning: Torre Vittoria (tower of Monticchio or Pretrara) (Sermoneta); Torre Acquapuzza (Sermoneta); Castello di Montelongo (Montelanico); Castello di Monte Trevi (Sezze); Castello di Collemezzo (Montelanico); Castello di Monte Prunio (Montelanico); Torre dei Pani (Sezze); Torre dei Masi (Sezze-Roccagorga); Torretta Rocchigiana, Towers of Mole Sante Mole Comuni (Priverno). Among the “architectural” symbols of the area, outside the inhabited centres, there is a more sobre building which for centuries was used by farmers, shepherds and lumberjacks, it is the Capanna Lepina. Made up of stone walls which are roughly one metre high, on which poles placed in a “pyramid” shape, held up bunches of rope grass (Ampelodesma) or stubble. Its flooring consisted of clay or pebbles and next to the hearth there was a straw mattress. Originally, the hut was the only abode, while for others instead, it was a seasonal shelter both for people and for animals or also used as a storage room, especially during periods of transhumance, tree cutting and grape harvesting. Throughout the years though, almost all have been abandoned. In any case it is still possible to see the remains of ancient villages of huts in some internal areas of the mountain chain; the most important ones are Le Campore (Cori); Valle Nazzani (Carpineto); Valle Pera (Norma); Valvisciolo (Carpineto); Caprei (Carpineto); I Ruschi (Bassiano); Valle La Caccia (Roccagorga); Valle Nardi (Roccagorga); Piani dell’Erdigheta (Carpineto). All of this was surrounded by sanctuaries and hermitages, always visited by the devoted population of the Lepini mountains who in many cases built them in remote and isolated areas which were difficult to access so as to dedicate

Rapiglio’s water fountain (© Funaro) 

themselves more devoutly to their contemplation, meditation and praying. Following is a short list of the rocky hermitages on the Lepini mountains: Monastery ruins of Santa Maria di Mirteto c. 300 m (Norma); Remains of the temple of Giunone Lucina 440 m (Norma); Santuario del Crocefisso 448 m (Bassiano); Chiesetta della Santissima Trinità al M. Campazzano 673 m (Segni); Chiesetta di San Leonardo 706 m (Sgurgola); Ruderi Abbazia di Malvisciolo o di Santo Stefano di valle Roscina 742 m (Carpineto); Santuario di San Luca 745 m (Maenza); Ruderi chiesetta di Santa Secondina 770 m (Sgurgola); Santuario Madonna di Collemezzo 775 m (Montelanico); Ruderi Eremo di San Tommaso Becket c. 800 m (Carpineto); Eremo di Sant’Angelo 820 m (Morolo); Eremo di Sant’Erasmo 849 m (Roccagorga); Santuario della Santissima Trinità 862 m (Bassiano); Ruderi Eremo di San Bartolomeo dei Valloni c. 900 m (Carpineto); Chiesa dell’Immacolata sul M. Cacume 1094 m [ex Monastero di San Michele Arcangelo] (Patrica).

CIRCEO

The Promontory of Circeo on the southern edge of the Pontine Marshes, is roughly 15 km as the crow flies from the first ramifications of the Lepini-Ausoni mountains, and is just like a bastion on the Tyrrhenian sea which to the north, overlooks the vast Pontine Marshes and to the south towards the Pontine islands. From the Lepini mountains, it appears on the horizon as a giant shape of a sleeping man (they say it is the witch..!) whose nose is in fact characterized by

A short visit to the panoramic Rave (© Funaro) 

the peak (Picco di Circe). From Gaeta, Sperlonga and Terracina instead, Circeo looks just like an island, the island of Eea which the ancient mariners saw rising up from the sea, and was dominated by the Sorceress who had powers to transform men. Mount Circeo consists of a rocky mass which is 6 km long and 2 km wide, with an almost continuous ridge line, which runs slightly downhill from west to east. Along this ridge the following main peaks rise (from west to east): vetta di Paola (picco d’Istria) 420m, picco di Circe 541m, punta di Torre Moresca 462m, punta di Vasca Moresca 421m, punta del Fortino di Cretarossa 395m, monte Circello (punta di Cristoforo or del Semaforo) 448m and punta dell’Acropoli (le Crocette) 385m. To this, three hills are added onto the eastern side: Peretto 181m, Guardia Orlando 162m and Monticchio 114m, which shut off the basin in which the town of San Felice Circeo rises west-north-west. The promontory is subdivided into two main sides, the northern one known as Quarto freddo, and the southern one known as Quarto Caldo. The first is characterized by a thick and cool holly oak forest with a few olive groves, while the second one runs down into the sea with steeper and harsher slopes, interrupted by imposing rock faces and Mediterranean bush. This last side is covered in caves, almost all are present on the cliffs which touch the water or further up and even underwater. Following are the names of the known sea caves which can be visited using small boats (kayaks) or on foot, and others only by expert freedivers and scuba divers (not recommended to non experts). In order from east (Torre Fico) to west (Torre Paola) you will find the caves of: Torre Fico, Stefanini, del Cervide, del Presepio (or del Calice), Azzurra, delle Capre, dell’Impiso (or dell’Impiccato), del Fossellone (communicating with the Elena cave), Anna, del Faro, dell’Acquario, of Torre Cervia,

Enzo Lanzuisi, dell’Alabastro (or delle Corvine), Barbara, le Cattedrali or 5 caves (dei Pesci, delle Palme, della Fessura, Anna, dei 3 Luigi), of the Anfore, del Rimbombo, dei Prigionieri (o dei Bombardieri), of Maga Circe (or of the Precipizio), Breuil, of the Bombardiere, of Ulisse or else of Paola or Aperta (internal right hand cave: grotta del Laghetto or dell’Isolotto, preceded by the Oscura Spelonca), and finally the cave Spaccata di Torre Paola (superior internal cavity Antro Padula). All these caves are never far from gorgeous bays and little inlets, we list the most interesting: the little beach of Porto (or di Torre Fico), the Rinascente, twin inlet of Punta Rossa, the bay of hotel Punta Rossa, bay Le Casette, beach of Pinguini, inlet of Piscinetta, bay of Alabastro, inlet of Calozza, Moresca bay (beach of the Prigionieri or of the Bombardieri) and the little beach of Ulisse (or of Torre Paola). As well as these there are other caves, which are more distant from the sea, some are very well known for the prehistoric remains which can be found inside the caves. Among these: grotta Guattari, grotta d’Antrassi and grotta dei Mammelloni. On the mountain, as well as along its slopes, there are many important archaeological remains (usually from Roman times) which are of great value. Among these I will mention a few: Mura ciclopiche dell’Acropoli di Circei; Fortino di Creta Rossa; Tempio di Venere; Grotta della Sibilla; Guardia Orlando. As well as these, along the coasts, the defence towers against the Saracen Pirates (1562) are still present, which still to this day are intact (except for one which is in ruins and another one being restructured): Torre Paola, Torre Moresca or Falconara (ruins), Torre Cervia or Torraccia, Torre Fico, Torre Vittoria and Torre Olevola.

M. Circeo’s Quarto freddo from Lake di Paola (© Tognoni) 

The promontory does not have many fresh water springs but, especially on the northern side, some important springs are present, among these: sorgente Mezzomonte, sorgente Orto Carbone (currently dry) and Copella fountain. In this guide book I have described all the Circeo paths which are more or less frequented and which climb up Mount Circeo itself. However there are many other itineraries in the Park that I have not included since, in my opinion, they have fallen into disuse (not viable), some are almost all flat and others, instead, are very touristy, so moving away from the main theme of this book.

ZANNONE

A true pearl of the Mediterranean which rises north-east of Ponza and is part of the Pontine islands (Ponza, Ventotene, Palmarola, Zannone, S.Stefano and Gavi). This island though, is not related to its “step sisters”, in fact it doesn’t have any volcanic origins but consists of limestone like its brother Circeo. In fact, it boasts an important record: here the most ancient rocks of Lazio were found, dating back to the dinosaur era (approx. 250 million years ago, Triassic). This consists of fossil remains made up of thousands of living organisms since it was an ex coral reef. Since Zannone is part of the Circeo National Park it is completely uninhabited and its only anthropic sign, as well as the lighthouse with attached house for the light house warden, is the ruin of the ancient Benedictine convent with an old hunting lodge nearby. The island, as opposed to the rest of the archipelago (where the settlers destroyed any trace of the original forest), has maintained a plant landscape which is very similar to the one its first visitors encountered thousands of years

The sacred entrance into the Alabastro cave (© Cortese) 

ago. Zannone, even if it was an area settled by humans since the dark ages, was never inhabited permanently, but for long periods it welcomed hermits, and after that, monks. The ruins of the Benedictine convent date back to the XIII century, the convent consisted of a church, a convent and a parish, as well as some vineyards, the pigeon house and the fish farm. In 1246 the monastery became Cistercian under the direct jurisdiction of Fossanova, but, quickly, the remarkable difficulties of staying permanently on the island and the growing raids of the Saracen pirates proclaimed the definitive abandonment of the monastery towards the end of the XIII century. Cala del Varo, is currently the only docking area and the best one on the island, permitted only with good weather and optimum sea conditions (but currently prohibited by PAI due to geological instability), an inlet with rocky banks facing Ponza. From here, continuing the circumnavigation towards south-east (right) you will find the following points of interest: punta Varo, cala delle Grottelle, punta del Monaco (with the remains of a fish farm dating back to Roman times), the cliffs of Monaco, punta di Levante, punta di Lauro, scoglio Calcare, Spiaggetta, capo Negro (light house), cala del Procidano, cala del Mariuolo (cave and cliffs of Mariuolo) and punta Lunghitiello.

The view towards Palmarola from the island of Zannone (© Pietrocini) 