Technical Introduction

Over 40 years of vertical history, created by the work and passion of the many exploring bolters who with a constant and evolutionary process, transformed the unused territory in sporting terms into what today is considered the third vertical centre of northern Italy. After the popular areas of Arco di Trento and the nearby Finale Ligure this is where a true climbing playground is being created, contributing not only to the fun of climbing enthusiasts, but also to the economic development of the hinterland, which experienced a strong crisis before the arrival of outdoor activities especially sports climbing.

The climbing styles are very different: from technical slabs in the Veravo area, to the long overhanging routes requiring endurance near the Pennavaire torrent to the many new rock faces in the woods of the upper valley offering more modern styles which are similar to the climbing style found in Frankenjura.

Val Neva currently has fewer sectors compared to Val Pennavaire, but some of them, such as Cersola and La Jungla, are of very high quality. Val Pennavaire is definitely more structured for climbing and has an increasing number of sectors, from the area of Martinetto running up the valley crossing the communes of Castelbianco, Nasino and Alto until the higher elevations of the Capruana and Aquila d’Arroscia areas. The orographic left hand side tends to face south and has winter crags which are scattered across the whole area and vary from the more classic styles to the more modern ones. Instead, on the opposite side, it enjoys a north facing exposure and has a multitude of summer sectors which are often ventilated, sometimes lightly touched by the Pennavaire torrent with its crystal clear waters, where it is possible to cool down before and after climbing. For all the salt water climbers out there, who dream of crags in Sicily and Greece, where it is possible to combine climbing with a swim in the sea, we remind them that the beautiful beaches of the western Ligurian coasts are only a few minutes away by car!

Being close to Finale Ligure and Toirano, which represent timeless, vertical realities, climbing here offers beautiful and complementary realities, making this area even more attractive. Finally we describe the tourist accommodation: coming to these areas you will discover how welcoming and professional the local shop keepers are, from the climbing shop “Cprfreesport” to the Bar “Neva” and “ A Cadana” at Cisano, who from the word go believed in the miracle that climbing is, becoming the true reference points for climbers, but also of the many shops, bars, restaurants, B&B scattered across the valley, which have contributed over the years to welcome the remarkable increase of local and foreign tourism, as well as giving a marked vertical identity to the area.