historical background

This final reductive conception, with the addition of that fake oriental halo that makes it so cool, easily attracted a growing mass of people, and many climbers are among them. Great part of the “vertical population” has (re)discovered Yoga only as a complementary tool for climbing training: a positive aspect, but reductive. Another part of them, instead, approached Yoga with that anxious need for performance and physical strength, that often characterizes the attitude towards climbing. Coming back to the starting point of this introduction, the remarks mentioned should not be revised now because the diffusion of Yoga has finally revealed its connection with climbing, but because, now more than ever, it is fundamental to remember what the meaning of this millennial discipline is, without which it is impossible to understand the true and deep connection with climbing. Yoga is not stretching, it is not cult of the body, it is not becoming more skilled in executing Asanas (positions): it is first of all a path of self-awareness starting for sure from the body, but using it as a means to explore the deepest states of our consciousness. The body is only the starting point and Asanas have the objective to bring it back to a healthy state, purify it from toxins, improve the psycho-physical well-being and release the energetic channels to prepare them for the next steps. These prerequisites are important both to understand how to get closer to its practice and to its connection with climbing. Surely, not everybody can be interested in going beyond Asanas, and this is even more true when Yoga techniques are connected with climbing. If well executed, positions are useful to prevent injuries, increase flexibility, fluidity, balance, concentration, strength and thus improve as climbers. In the same way, Pranayama or meditation techniques are perfect to work on breathing or on mental and emotional aspects connected with climbing. All of this gives us well-being in addition to performance. Therefore, if you are only interested in this “practical” approach, you will find the technical explanations to achieve that here. However, even in that case, remember that between Yoga and stretching or fitness there is a substantial difference: in the practice of Asanas the mind must remain present, concentrated and focused on the body, on what we feel while we keep the position, on a calm and deep breathing flux and on self-awareness.

Awareness. Presence in the “here and now”, to be in the moment. Mind control together with body control. These aspects are fundamental in the practice of Yoga, even if only limited to training. Otherwise, if you are interested in Yoga not only as a set of techniques, but as a spiritual path of inner exploration, then you will be able to experience it in its most true and complete nature. This is the starting point also to look at climbing from a different perspective, discovering that it can also be practiced with a deeper awareness, so as to be considered a real form of Yoga! This handbook thus is not intended only to give some suggestions on “Yoga for climbing”, but it has the more challenging purpose to help consider “climbing as Yoga”. This is why, as a first step, we will analyse how, in fact, climbing and spirituality have always been connected!

Living spiritually is living the moment. Yoga brings us in the present moment, making us aware of our posture, our movements and breathing. Swami Vivekananda

SPIRITUALITY, YOGA AND CLIMBING: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

A close relationship always existed between spirituality and the concept of mountain!

The holiness of the mountain is a concept echoing in all cultures and religions since the beginning of time, so as to become an archetype itself of Holy. The mystery of peaks, their surge to the sky, their inaccessibility and the power of their phenomena (rockslides, avalanches, storms, etc.) has always recalled the idea of divine beings living there, which must be feared, venerated and respected. The unspoilt mountains have become symbolic spots where Eternity connects to the Earth and the ascent to the summit represents that metaphorical journey where man, while ascending, makes a journey towards divine and spiritual contemplation. Mountains have become a symbol of elevation, detachment from the material world and inner aspiration to eternity that is part of human nature.

Every major religion and every population in any part of the world has its Sacred Mountain: Mount Olympus for the Greeks, Mount Sinai or Calvary for Christians, Mount Qaf for the Islamic religion, Kailash for Hindus, Ayers Rocks for the Aborigines, Mount Fuji in Japan, all the sacred mountains of native Americans, etc.

The idea of the Holy Mountain is a shared symbol in the history and culture of all humanity: the idea of elevation recalls deep archetypes in our inner self. Since its beginning, despite the celebration of ego in man’s “fight with the Mountain”, alpinism has, in fact, presented a deep mysticism and the description of spiritual experiences is not unusual at all in mountain literature. Certainly, alpinism is an extreme context where the relationship with the power of Nature appears in all its wideness and where man can realize his nothingness as well as his immense potential. However, this archetypical component of ascent through a steep wall exists also in sport climbing, even though objective risks are dramatically reduced, the environment is tamed and human-sized by now: climbing touches many deep strings in us, anchored in our more instinctive self, that cannot be easily held by rationality.

Let’s just think about the fear of falling that everyone had to overcome: rationality would tell us that there is nothing to fear (rope, quickdraws and bolts are safe etc.), nevertheless there is a reaction in us that is deeper, “animal” and irrational, a manifestation of our inner instinct of survival. The same thing happens with the archetype of the ascent: whether we admit it or not, climbing activates in us an impulse of inner elevation, and maybe the materialistic approach of many climbers is an unconscious reaction to deny this inner elevation, that not everybody is ready to accept.

Having said that, we will now present, from a more historical perspective, some examples of the close relationship between spiritual disciplines and climbing. Between the XIX and the XX century, in Wales, lives a great climber and alpinist, probably the first to practice bouldering: Oscar Eckenstein. However, our subject is not about him, but another alpinist, with whom Eckenstein made the first serious attempt to conquer K2 in 1902, and who left us the first maps of Llanberis Pass’ blocks: Aleister Crowley. The name of Crowley is probably already known to many, not for his mountaineering activity, but for his interest in the occult. Actually, he was a famous esoteric, magician, founder of several esoteric congregations, author of books evoking an “obscure” dimension of spirituality, so as to become famous as one of the major Satanists. Along with this vocation, Crowley carried on a remarkable mountaineering career, which came to an end in 1905 after the failing expedition to Kangchenjunga. Surely, this first example is not really positive concerning the approach to spirituality, and it is a case where climbing and alpinism take second place. However, it is still a historically interesting example where we find a first connection between these two dimensions, including Yoga. Actually, in the notorious book Magick, Crowley describes the meditative states that can be experienced thanks to the practice of Raja Yoga and there are several mentions of Yoga.

In more recent times, a remarkable example of spiritual experiences in climbing brings us back to 1969, when the famous American magazine Ascent published The climber as visionary by Doug Robinson. In that revolutionary article, starting from the artistic conception of climbing already mentioned by George Mallory, Robinson goes beyond, analysing the visionary experiences one can have while climbing. He describes how our perception varies, how concentration and relaxation experimented during an ascent prepare us inside for this vision when we feel “we are suffused with oceanic feelings of clarity, distance, union, oneness”.

When we identify tensions, it is important to stop and relax before taking the movement to the upper parts.

If we keep the spine extended and move slowly, the areas of most resistance will soften gradually, intensifying the position and also relaxing possible chronic tensions. In many twists there is the temptation to force, but this must be avoided in order not to go beyond our limits and to avoid injuries. Often, hip tensions tend to pull the hip up towards the shoulder, or to pull the shoulder down to the hip during the execution of Asanas, bringing the twist where it is easier. This entails a more intense lateral bend into the spine, which, if combined with the twist, can partially compress vertebral discs and stop the energy flow. Therefore, it is necessary to balance this tendency pushing the hip away from the corresponding shoulder and, if necessary, slightly relaxing the twist to realign the spine. In addition to neck and spine, it is recommended to also warm up pelvis and shoulders.

During the execution, breathe consciously during each twist, extend the spine as much as possible on the inhale and intensify the twist of the chest on the exhale. Twists present several benefits: they open chest, hips, shoulders and neck; reduce discomfort and tiredness in the spine, relaxing tensions and rebalancing back muscles; massage intervertebral discs and align the spine; reduce the accumulation of calcium in the spine. They also bring further benefits: they improve digestion, peristalsis and elimination; extend and tone the diaphragm; expand lungs improving breathing.

At a mental level they calm negative emotions and restlessness that often contribute to back problems. Moreover, they encourage relaxation and improve the flow of vital energy, promoting its moving upward towards the heart and the brain, increasing our awareness. For these reasons they are often executed during the final phases of the practice to rebalance the spine and prepare the body and mind to the practice of Pranayama and/or meditation.

The practice of Yoga helps a lazy body to become active and vibrating. It transforms the mind, making it more harmonious. Yoga helps to maintain body and mind in harmony with the essence, the soul, so that the three are merged in one.

B. K. S. Iyengar

01. ADHO MUKHA SVANASANA

DOWNWARD DOG POSE

Introduction Adho Mukha Svanasana is a fundamental Asana and one of the most important in the Yoga practice, amazing in combination with climbing and present in every style. It is a pose of the Surya Namaskara and a pose of transition almost “mandatory” in the execution of many Vinyasa sequences. In Sanskrit Adho means “downward”, Mukha means “face” or “muzzle” and Svana means “dog”, from which the name of the pose. The position of the arms allows to open shoulders and chest, preventing kyphosis caused by climbing and stretching neck and back muscles. Chest and arms are toned, while calves are stretched and ankle joints become more flexible and healthier. Apart from the merely physical benefits, since it is a slightly inverted position, it stimulates concentration and mental presence. It is a suitable position either for warm-up, active recovery and rebalancing after training, but it must be avoided in case of carpal tunnel syndrome.

Execution 1. Move down on your mat and come on your hands and knees in tabletop pose. Plant your palms down on the mat spreading your fingers wide, your arms right under the shoulders, toes touching the ground; 2. On the exhale rise your knees from the ground, stretching arms and legs; 3. Take your body to form a triangular position, with the top formed by the hip bones, the legs extended and your back aligned with the arms; 4. Place your feet as wide as your hips and press your heels down as much as possible to touch the ground, with extended legs. Open the shoulders to form a perfect line, straightening the arms and dropping the head between them, without leaving it waging and sending your gaze towards the belly. The chin is thus placed between breastbone and collarbone to form a lock called Jalandhara Bandha. As an alternative, it is also possible to keep the head in a neutral position; 5. Hold the position for 5/10 deep and regular breaths, feeling the effects on body and mind; 6. To release the position, inhale and on the exhale come back to the centre; 7. Repeat twice. After the second execution, sit back on your heels and, without lifting the hip bones from them, lie down with the forehead touching the mat and the arms resting on your side, and remain in this position of relaxation for some breaths (Balasana).

Benefits It opens shoulders and chest; stretches calf, foot and hand muscles and knee tendons; strengthens both lower and upper limbs; helps digestion and reduces headache and menstrual pains. It is helpful for tiredness, back pains and for problems of blood pressure, asthma, sciatica and flat feet. It relaxes the mind reducing stress and mild depressions. Moreover, it energizes the whole body.

Specific benefits for climbing

It prevents kyphosis tendencies; reduces stiffness of neck or back muscles; tones up and helps the active recovery of arms, shoulders and chest; extends and makes flexible ankle tendons.

Precautions and warnings

Do not execute at an advanced stage of pregnancy or in case of carpal tunnel syndrome. In case of migraine or headache rest your head on a pillow or another support. If you cannot execute it completely, keep your legs slightly bent, focusing on opening the chest, feeling the pressure of the hands on the mat and pressing the heels to the ground, always avoid excessive efforts. Contrary to what is sometimes showed, you should avoid to stretch shoulder joints too much.

02. ARDHA CHANDRASANA

HALF MOON POSE

Introduction In the different traditions there are several positions called “half moon pose”, even though this name refers more commonly to the position called Tola Trikonasana in this book. In Sanskrit: Ardha means “half”, “mid”, while Chandra is the Moon, from which it draws the name. The version presented here is a simple position helping us to extend all the body side and to keep shoulders open. Moreover, this Asana make us perceive the shifting of the body weight on the feet, executing it on both one sides, becoming thus aware of the flowing of our balance.

Execution 1. Stand up in Tadasana; 2. On the inhale lift on your toes, circling your arms up overhead. Squeezing the shoulder blades towards each other and opening the shoulders, send the palms of your hands forward interlacing your fingers and stretch all your spine. Focus on the balance into your toes; 3. On the exhale bend to your right side pressing the heels down to the ground, stretching all the left part of the body from the hip to the neck and paying attention that the bend is only lateral, as if the body was blocked between two slabs, without twists or soft flexions forth or back. Shoulders must remain relaxed and away from the ears, but both arms and legs are active and well straightened. In this position the body forms a lateral arch like a halfmoon; 4. Hold the pose for 5/10 breaths with the spine extended and the chest open, keeping the extension for all the duration of the Asana; 5. On the inhale, take your arms up again standing on your toes, then on the exhale repeat the Asana on the other side; 6. Once it has been executed, come back in Tadasana for a few breaths, and listen to the effects of the position and the inner sensations that it generated.

Benefits It opens shoulders, chest and rib cage, improving and expanding the breath; stretches the spine, opening it sideways; promotes an effective general energy recharge; promotes awareness of the spine and the flow of energy in it; helps to become aware of the balance in the feet.

Specific benefits for climbing

It helps to open shoulders and chest and to close shoulder blades, preventing kyphosis and avoiding thus the troubles linked to it; tones up and activates shoulders, arms and ankles, also in preparation for the next climb; makes us more aware of the shifts of balance in our feet.

Precautions and warnings

In case of hyperlordosis problems or excessive tension during the execution with lifted hands, bend the elbows or separate the hands keeping the arms parallel or even keep the hands joined at the heart centre. During pregnancy scoop the pelvis forward and move the belly inward to protect the lower region. In case of heart problems keep the hands to the heart centre. Do not execute or pay particular attention in case of spinal injuries, herniated disc, hip prosthesis or pelvis problems.

08. VIRABHADRASANA III

WARRIOR POSE III

Introduction In the third position of the Warrior, strength, rooting and focusing on the objective find a perfect synthesis introducing the balance on one hand, combined with the search of arm, trunk and leg alignment. This position is similar to Ganapatiasana, the position of Ganesha (also called Ganapati, from which the name of the Asana), Indian god in form of an elephant, a strong and heavy animal, but kind at the same time. This image still recalls in us the sensation of strength and stability.