ESTETICA USA 1.2011 by Edizioni Esav

USA

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FEATURES Viva Burlesque! Iconic Salon Interiors SHOWS & EXPOS Reports and Highlights of the Biggest Events

ESTETICANETWORK! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it

FRONT AND CENTER Color Consultation Formaldehyde Update

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w w w . e s t e t i c a m a g a z i n e . c o m /w w w.es tet ica- u s a.c o m

E D I T O R I A L

Estetica USA? It’s like Burlesque! Now that I have your attention, I can explain the similarities. When we begin working on an issue, it’s full of inspiration, which

is easy in the hair fashion industry, with expos and

events like the Redken Symposium, Matrix Imagination, and ABS, not to mention the colorful, over-the-top hairstyling personalities who create stunning coifs and set new trends (even if they may not have provocative nicknames). But on the road to the final printed product, we often encounter “bumps and grinds”, like last minute changes made to the editorial program or layouts, editing articles, waiting for approvals – will we ever meet the deadlines? Finally everything seems to “come off” without a hitch, with our “Top

It’s beautiful, it’s colorful, Themes” front and foremost (this it’s fun, it’s provocative… issue focuses on Iconic Salon it’s Estetica! Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas and John Simpson Photo: Babak Make-Up: Dragan Vurgelji Styling: Xenia Bous Products: Goldwell

Interiors and Color-Comfortable Clients) and regular features on celebrities and trends in hair, nails, and fashion in general, followed by our “centerfold” highlighting international fashion trends and catwalks. Then we finally get down to the “hard” stuff for industry pros. In addition to our regular features on events, expos, news, and products, this issue includes a special report on the formaldehyde in smoothing treatments controversy to keep you updated on the latest developments there. And oh! By the way – I almost forgot – there is also a feature article on Burlesque! Enjoy! Marie Scarano Managing Editor

Publisher and Director Roberto Pissimiglia

C O N T E N T S Estetica n.1/2011

Estetica Network Editorial Director Carla De Meo c.demeo@estetica.it Estetica Network Editor-in-Chief Laura Castelli l.castelli@estetica.it

International Editorial Coordinator Fatima Pilone f.pilone@estetica.it Editorial Assistants Ludovica Cavalli l.cavalli@estetica.it Carola Piazza c.piazza@estetica.it Art direction Barbara Belletti

The coolest coifs and freshest fashions.

Looks: Cougar Couples

Catwalks: Both Extremes

Trends: Pasties & G-Strings

Book: This is Mamika

Make-up: Coloured Nights

Vogue: Revolution Denim

Layout Manuela Artosi m.artosi@estetica.it Paola Baratta p.baratta@estetica.it Davide Cardente d.cardente@estetica.it Elisa Favara e.favara@estetica.it

Accessories: Wonderful Glasses

Celebrities: Taylor’s Tressmistress

Nails: Mini Mania

Fashion: AIPP Explosion

Production Supervisor Carlo Tiani c.tiani@estetica.it

Design: Iconic Interiors

Vision: Subtle Contrasts

Contributors U.S. SPECIAL Advertising & P.R. Nives Carena nivescarena@estetica.it Circulation Manager John Barrios Managing Editor Marie Scarano esteticausa@estetica.it Contributing editors Tracy E. Banghart Lucy ToBar España Sergi Bancells Pilar Alonso Floría Rosa Girona Cristina Hernández Elisabet Parra Ester Puerto Deutsche Ausgabe Annette Rübesamen Petra Weinzierl

Details that make a difference. ifference.

116

Business: Color-Comfy Clients

120

Interview: Manly Mission

122

Charity: Caring Community

126

Investigation: Alarm Formaldehyde

130

Events: Redken Rising

133

Events: Matrix Imagination 2011

135

Events: ABS Highlights

136

Expos & Agenda

139

News

142

Products

France Stéphanie Argentin Marie Coccoluto UK Rachel Gould Gary Kelly Italia Adriana Abbena Paola Gallotti Daniela Giambrone Lucia Preziosi Wilma Sommariva World/Asia Victoria Clifford Mexico-Latinoamérica Sergi Bancells Laura Cantarella Irma Del Olmo Alondra Vergara

International Trends 50

Time Glimpse

Colour Energy

Marlene Dietrich

Combs in C Minor

Paris Night

Couples

Punk Attitude

eck.

Cougar

Couples Thanks to feminism, cutting-edge beauty treatments, and downright attitude, often it’s a “middle-aged” woman on the prowl for younger males. GRRROOOWWL!

s the old saying goes, you’re not getting older, you’re getting better! And this is certainly true nowadays, and not only thanks to lifting and tucking! Women today are more aware, more self-confident, and taking better care of themselves. This is why VIP Looks features famous so-called Cougar Couples, with women who are considerably older than their male partners. Toy boys? A mere fad? Unlikely, also because some couples, like Demi Moore and Aston Kutcher, have been around for years. Mariah Carey and hubby Nick Cannon have recently announced they’re expecting, while Mira Sorvino and Christopher Backus are already an established family. Pureology’s Ruth Roche, an award winning hairstylists with 25 years experience was asked to give these couples ratings on style, cut, and outfit. As a salon owner, editorial stylist, platform artist and educator, Ruth continues to inspire her peers and her clients with her innovation, humor and talent.

Photo: Getty Images

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Demi Moore Ashton Kutcher These two look absolutely amazing. Nothing is overdone. Demi’s dress is so beautifully detailed that she needs no accessories. The gold laces running through it add an edge, and although there is a lot going on in the dress, her sleek hair and lack of jewelry balance and complete her look. Ashton’s suit is sharp and perfectly tailored. I had to give him a 9 for the piece of hair on his forehead. It should have been either textured or smooth … not both.

E S T E T I C A ❘7

Photo: Getty Images

Mariah Carey Nick Cannon This Valentino dress on Mariah outlines her shape beautifully, despite the deep plunging neckline. Perhaps a little lighter with accessories would have worked better. The glittering clutch, Piaget watch and diamond bracelets overshadow the floral broach on her gown. Mariah and Nick together are stunning! Mariah’s hair looks very pretty, however more volume and a little more glam would have balanced her overall look. Nick’s hair is well groomed, but his facial hair should be just as polished.

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8❘ E S T E T I C A

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Photo: Pho to: o Getty Getty Image ges es

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Mira Sorvino Christopher Backus Christopher’s hair is modern and well styled. Mira’s hair does not look glamorous at all. It is very fine and limp. It looks a little too ‘every day’ for the red carpet. Some fresh highlights would have added life and texture to her look. Her earrings and bracelet work well, but the dress is not flattering, has no shape, and hides her amazing legs. Christopher’s shirt doesn’t fit well, and the jacket is too big for him.

E S T E T I C A ❘9

Both

Extremes Fashion is a sign of the times, and times today are volatile. Designers are reacting in different ways, offering a wide variety and sometimes conflicting trends. by Marie Scarano

Mend M Me Men del el

Cassis

Neu utral tones like bla ack, white, beige and d grey lend themselvess to simple cuts and interesting texturres in both fashion n and hair.

Cass Cass ssis

veryone has his own way of dealing with things, and it would seem that fashion designers are no different, although it would seem that there are two main concepts. Reassuring somber hues and vintage looks to reflect pessimism in the world economy and nostalgia for “back when” or picking spirits up with bright and bold tropical tones and carefree cuts. Elene Cassis came on with styles that were understated and lady-like but with a modern “twist” and bold black and white geometric patterns, to which lead hairstylists for L’Oréal Professionnel, Amit Abraham, matched an elegant “big hair” look, reminiscent of the classic “French Twist” and Jackie O simplicity to enhance the bold colors and shapes, Other designers offset neutral tones with rich plissé and draped fabrics that skim the figure while bodices evoke either Grecian goddesses or fairy-tale princesses, as did J. Mendel, who explained that “This season is all about the ethereal. It is an airy and easy look that is infused with modern femininity and a balletic twist.” Ted Gibson, L’Oréal top stylist, said he was inspired by the collection, which evoked in him the image of a ballerina with her hair down. The result was a deliberately unkempt look with straight texture for a just-out-of-bed look. The backstory to Jen Kao’s collection apparently involved “girls wandering the desert in an altered state where they find the man of Extremes in concepts their dreams.” One of his most striking creations was and cuts, but with a fitted and textured halter top with cutaway sides a neutral palette and a voluminous silk skirt. Such contrast calls for minimal accessories, and the most basic of jute sandals. L’Oréal Professional Portfolio Artist Joseph DiMaggio succeeded in capturing the mood by creating a multi-textured “salt of the earth” look, giving hair contrasting textures to mimic the fabrics, like the macramé and silk used in this collection.

C A T W A L K S

Long hair inspires creativity, but lately the key word is texture. Whether up or down, it is often with sleek and rough contrast and just a bit of “messy”.

Mend M Men ndel e

Lamb

Cassis

Jen JJe een n Ka Kao K o

Elegance can traditionally be long and ﬂowing or well above the knee and minimalist. Sometimes less is more.

Photos by Bennet Raglin of BR Photo Creations. Inc E S T E T I C A ❘11

Prab P Pra raaab baall Gu urun uru ur rru un ng

Carolina Herrera

Erin Fetherston

C A T W A L K S

Caro Car arolina ina na Her H Herrera rera era

Brilliant jewel and spicy tones evoked oriental ﬂowers and tropical sunsets Longing for exotic getaways

Erin Fetherston

Catwalk photoss: Juri Romano Studiio

Moroccanoil’s own Odile Gilbert and Orlando Pita were at Fashion Week NY to do hair for such stylists as Carolina Herrera, Prabal Gurung, and Erin Fetherston. For Spring 2011, Herrera’s collection bloomed with prints, colors, and appliqués inspired by eighteenthcentury botanical plates, while the cuts were borrowed from traditional Korean garb, for an oriental silhouette. Pita explained, “My hairstyle is precise and graphic… and held together only by custom-made barrettes that match the exact color of the model’s hair. Moroccanoil products give hair hold, smoothness, and shine.” Gilbert created ad hoc looks for Prabal Gurung and Erin Fetherston to reflect the contrasting moods between the collections. Prabal Gurung embodied American sportswear with a European flair. Detailed tailoring and fitted silhouettes contrast with large, airy prints in bold colors. With such a palette to work on, Gilbert started with something classic – a ponytail – to combine both modern and classic elements. But part of the ponytail become chignon, pinned at the nape of the neck to hold its form – reflecting the contrast between cut and color in the collection by giving different profiles: one bold and simple, while the other is soft and flowing. She had to switch gears, instead, for Fetherston’s collection, which was a celebration of wanderlust, the exotic and the unique, evoking equatorial zones of tropical sunsets or desert dunes. For daywear, cotton twills, voiles, and linens were used to create classic dresses and safari-style sportswear. But for the evening, Fetherston’s woman emerges like a butterfly from a cocoon, decked out in brilliant hues. Gilbert recalls, “I wanted to create an exotic look that had the mood of a woman on a tropical holiday… so her hair looks natural, healthy, straight and clean, but I’ve given it a bit of subtle drama with texture only on the top… the rest of the strands fall free.” To get that tropical effect, she sprayed Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray just a few inches from the hair before separating the strands with a comb. Colors are known to have a strong effect on the human psyche, so why not splash out? You’ll feel great!

Odile Gilbert and Orlando Pita for Moroccanoil succeeded in embodying the mood of these collections with ad hoc hairstyles. Hair is long, but always with contrasts in texture or dos. Photos by Peter Lueders and David Webber for Moroccanoil

Watch the video on your mobile With the QR code you can see other images of the catwalks Instructions on page 145

ESTETICAFASHION! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ w e esteticatv E S T E T I C A ❘13

Pasties &

G-strings During times of economic hardship, small-town girls were wont to seek fame & fortune in the big city, even if not exactly as they had planned. by Marie Scarano

LaBaff expects the styles created for the ﬁlm ﬁ to inspire people in their everyday lives.

Getty Images

Above and photos right: Sony Pictures www.burlesquethemovie.com

16❘ E S T E T I C A

here’s no doubt about it. Burlesque is making a big comeback as an art form whose all-American historical and cultural relevance is often compared to jazz. Foremost in this most recent revival is the film of the same name, starring Cher, Christina Aguilera, Julianne Hough, and Kristen Bell, taking fashion trends by storm both on catwalks and in hair salons. NY and Paris runways featured peek-a-boo lacies, corsets, and even feathery boas, while Michael Kaplan designed costumes for the film to reflect the irony and ribaldry that is the very essence of Burlesque. Celebrity hairstylist Colleen LaBaff was part of a team that researched and updated looks from the 1920s, 30s, 50s and even 70s for the cast. She told Estetica that, “We had both straight and curly looks, depending on the theme of the dance number. But curls are always sexier and more glamorous, as there is great movement and dimension.” Not to mention the myriad falls, ¾ wigs, and wraparound wigs by Naasha Ladek. But such artifice is common among female Burlesque performers, who have always created an alter-ego as their stage-personality, often

enhanced by elaborate sets, lush costumes, and even mood music to entice the audience. Male comedians created sketches rife with double-entendre, but the girls were the real attraction - especially at Minsky’s, where four enterprising brothers from the Big Apple realised that during the Great Depression there seemed to be throngs of pretty young girls seeking steady work and finding it difficult to say no to salaries that ranged from between $700 and $2,000 per week, opening doors for such stars as Georgia Sothern, Ann Corio, and Sherry Britton. These were the artists who - as is often said -“put the tease back in striptease”. Sally Rand became famous for her dances involving ostrich feather fans and large balloons. Karen Abbott decided to write an entire book about Gypsy Rose Lee after hearing a family anecdote about a cousin who claimed, “She took a full fifteen minutes to peel off a single glove!” Striptease in burlesque soon became subjected to local legislation, requiring the Minsky’s to keep their shows clean enough to

T R E N D S

Getty Images

Gett y Im ages

Wigs and extensions are used to get big hair and extra hair to hold styles for all-day shooting, sometimes dance numbers last 16-17 hours a day.

Putting the ‘tease’ back in striptease, with feathers, corsets, garters, and whatever your imagination suggests To get these looks, use different sizes of curling irons and IT&LY Pure Water Drops and styling products. Still not sure? Ask your stylist for some tips! S Hair by Colleen LaBaff

S Hair: Colleen Jas LaBaff, Kimble, Natasha Allegro

S Hair by Frida Aradottir

E S T E T I C A ❘17

Josephine Baker wowed Parisian crowds with her dark skin, quirky smile, banana skirt, and self-assured non-chalance.

18â?&#x2DC; E S T E T I C A

Marc Jacobs

Zac Posen

All celebrity photos: Getty Images

New York and Paris runways reďŹ&#x201A;ect the revival with lace, feathers, and tantalizing glimpses of skin.

Burlesque, often likened to jazz as an all-American art form, is now making a big comeback

Chan Cha Ch C han ha h aan nel el

Watch the video on your mobile With the QR code you can see the trailer of the movie. Instructions on page 145

Catwalk photos: Juri Romano Studio

ESTETICATREND! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it

avoid being raided, while keeping things risqué enough to entice customers. One of the most famous Burlesque artists of all time was Josephine Baker, whose comic ability and jazz dancing drew the attention of the director of the Folies Bergère in Paris in 1925. Baker was destined to become one of the best-known entertainers in both France and Europe, remembered mostly for her suggestive Danse banane. But her influence went far beyond the Harlem Renaissance in America, as her art also coincided with the Exposition des Art Decoratifs, piquing worldwide interest in ethnic art forms. During World War II, Baker also worked with the Red Cross, gathered intelligence for the French Resistance, and entertained troops in Africa and the Middle East. When she eventually returned to the States, she became a staunch crusader for racial equality, breaking the color bar by refusing to entertain in any club or theater that was not integrated. Now a whole new nationwide generation of artists is determined to bring Burlesque back, spearheaded during the early 1990s by Billie Madley’s “Cinema”, Ami Goodheart in “Dutch Weissmann’s Follies” in New York, and Michelle Carr’s “The Velvet

Hammer” in Los Angeles, and the Shim-Shamettes” in New Orleans. Dita Von Teese, with her vintagestyle costumes and elaborate sets, has done much to bring Burlesque almost into the mainstream. And thanks to the opening of the Burlesque Hall of Fame in Las Vegas, Nevada, ironically referred to as the “Strippers’ Smithsonian”, this all-American performing art is finally getting its due. The museum is brimming with thousands of artefacts, diaries, outfits, and promotional materials donated by performers - a virtual snapshot of this art in its hey- day. And like jazz, there is a genre to suit everyone, as the world of Burlesque embraces non-conventional beauty standards. Artists are tall and short, young and old, petite and voluptuous. So don’t be shy! Join in the fun! Find the Burlesque school nearest you! Yes, they do exist! All it takes is attitude. So stock up on g-strings and pasties and learn the old bump and grind! Getty Images

Z Pose Za Zac Posen n

T R E N D S

New-generation stars like Dita Von Teese elaborate lush sets and lascivious personae to go with them.

www.youtube.com/ w e esteticatv E S T E T I C A ❘19

B O O K

This is

Mamika An international media phenomenon or how to become a happy style icon at the age of 91. Seeing is believing with this photographic book by Sacha Goldberger.

IRONY HAS NO LIMITS. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the elixir of youth in modern times. Frederika Goldberger knows this well. Born a baroness in Budapest in 1919, she has lived a storybook life. One war, two dictatorships, four husbands, two children, a hugely successful career as a fabric designer in France. And now, thanks to her photographer grandchild Sacha, she is reborn as Mamika. This character has inborn style and class from another era. She is the heroine of surreal adventures recounted in a photographic book where toilet rolls become binoculars, air fresheners are chic earrings and inflatable pool rings transform into useful sunhats. Happiness is thinking out-of-the-box. E S T E T I C A â?&#x2DC;21

M A K E - U P

Colored

nights

Lancôme

The eye plays its part. And when blue is involved, it always takes a starring role. This season’s make-up offers a huge range of ideas. From the refined eyeshadows by Dior and YSL to the whimsical fanciness of Deborah and Collistar, with hi-tech eyeliner. Blue in all its shades, to match up with silver for evening glam. Lancôme varnish to polish up nails, Dolce & Gabbana eyeshadow for highlighting eyes. Anything else? Yes, mascara with an ergonomic brush, like this one by Lancôme.

Collistar

Lancôme

Dior

Estée Lauder

Yves Saint Laurent

Blue as the night, the sea, the sky. On eyes and nails, highlighted with silver dust, blue is the ideal companion for starry nights with a spring-like air and a blue moon.

rah bo De

Giorgio Armani

Do lce &

Ga bb an a

Collistar

E S T E T I C A ❘23

V O G U E

Revolution

denim

FORGET ABOUT THE STANDARD BLUE JEANS OF THE EIGHTIES. The upcoming season will witness a revival among stylists, and heavy-duty denim will become an absolute must-have. But only if fashioned into mini-shorts and maxi-hats, trendy jackets, and dizzying stilettos. And only if it’s complete with patches, tears, embroideries, and appliqués. Perfect for a modern dandy look while zipping about in downtown traffic to a concert or a happy hour. Stone washed or delavé, denim will be matched with white, or contaminate a shirt or scarf. And to complete your outfit, simply consider a small detail, like a small bag or belt.

Just Cavalli

Miss Sixty

Guess

B ett Ben etton on

Denim has come a long way since it was a mere fabric for heavy-duty work clothes. Now denim is once again filling our wardrobes, but this time in an ultra-glam version.

A C C E S S O R I E S

Wonderful

glasses Diane Von Furstenberg Castelbajac

Dsquared2

Prada

Dolce & Gabbana

Stella McCartney

Betsey Johnson Fendi

John Richmond

Jeremy Scott

Foureyes. And blatantly so. Glasses are no longer terrifying, au contraire... This summer, the key is: in your face! So, glasses go outsize. The classic frames get bigger, painted in Bauhaus colours or inspired by divers. Eyewear has never been so eclectic or outrageous – with frames harking back to childhood days, or triangular and wicked, or in the form of a cross for those latent punks. Original colours – fluorescent yellow or multi-colour combinations. Daytime, night-time, or fun time. Can you see us clearly? Well, wear these everyone will be ogling your goggles.

Sonia Rykiel

Betsey Johnson

Wonderful glasses. Not just for shading the sun, they are also the must-have accessory of the season. Classic or way-out, or mix’n’match like t-shirts.

E S T E T I C A ❘27

Taylor’s Tressmistress She’s young, gorgeous, and talented – in a word irresistible. She probably never has a bad-hair day, but for the Red Carpet, she calls in Jemma Muradian…

The girl with the golden locks and the platinum hits.

28❘ E S T E T I C A

s a tall, lanky teenager with a guitar, Taylor Swift started out, like many artists, on MySpace, and went on to win a string of prestigious music awards with her catchy teen-age love songs with country twang and a pop beat. Today, this household name and America’s Sweetheart has also become a “Hair Icon”, especially when she’s performing on stage. But what’s a girl to do for those Red Carpet days? She calls a celebrity stylist like Jemma Muradian, of course! “For TV appearances, we know that Taylor will be the grounded person she really is, but for red carpet looks, we usually take it up a notch or two. I believe that any hairstyle should just enhance the person’s beauty, not take it over or be the focus of attention.” And part of being naturally gorgeous means no color products. “Doing waves and curls is a good way to enhance her natural highlights. I love to use curls, even for updos,” reveals Jemma. And Taylor has sported some splendid updos for her red carpet appearances, with intricately sculpted yet seemingly non-chalant coifs. Until the 2010 American Music Awards, when she showed up with super-straight hair and a trendy fringe. “We felt the look for the AMA was great for the red carpet, as the straight hair and bangs accented her eyes and really complemented her wardrobe. The hairstyle was simple, sleek, and elegant, but edgy”, explains Jemma. So what’s life like on the “glam squad”? “It’s special to work with Taylor so I feel like I am part of an environment that fosters creativity, and creating and being expressive with my hands is what I love doing!” What can we mere mortals do to get hair like Taylor’s? “Use great shampoos and conditioners! One of my favorites is the L’Oréal Kérastase line. And don’t overuse styling products.” Wise words from the personal hairdresser of a hair icon!

C E L E B R I T I E S

Jemma’s secret? “Bangs are great for framing the eyes and give an interesting look when you pull the hair into a pony tail.”

The many faces of Taylor, left to right: demure, wild and free, edgy, street soft. All of them different, always true to herself.

Photos Getty Images

“I love where we are and what I do. It’s inspirational and fun!”

E S T E T I C A ❘29

Photo by: Rebecca Palladina

Mini

Nails are no longer a mere detail. They are over-the-top, dominating even hair, make-up, and other fashion details in defining a total look with incredible designs.

30â?&#x2DC; E S T E T I C A

Photo Courtesy of Minx

Opposite and far right: Contessa Awards Nail Enhancement Artist winner Jessica Marie Ellison; Right/Left: Nail designs by Cherie Plank of Simply Polished in Fort Morgan, CO.

Cherie Plank Simply Polished

Flowers, candy, checkerboards - there’s no limit to the imagination

or as long as humans have had nails, it seems they have always been fascinated with manicures. In ancient Babylonia, noblemen used solid gold tools to give themselves manicures and pedicures, while the use of fingernail polish can be traced back even further to China in 3,000 BC, where nail color indicated one’s social status, as did ancient Egyptians, who used red to show the highest social class. Even the Incas decorated their fingernails with pictures of eagles. Through the

Photo by: Rebecca Palladina

N A I L S

decades and centuries, shapes, lengths and colors have changed hundreds of times according to the whims of fashion and even historical or cultural movements and necessities. T Today, even the lingo has changed: a manicure is now referred to as nail enhancement or nail art. New technologies and materials have made it possible to do the seemingly impossible when it comes to nail care: strengthening and lengthening products, quickdrying polishes, long-lasting top coats, gels and acrylics, and of course, colors galore that follow fashion trends. Obviously such

materials and techniques inspire creativity, empowering manicurists to explore new worlds. Today they have become true artists, reminiscent of monks who so painstakingly created illuminated letters in medieval manuscripts, molding and shaping, workings with fine brushes, contrasting colors, appliqués and bling, creating miniature works of art at your fingertips. Sources of inspiration are endless: special occasions, hobbies, sports, and even other editorial themes, like candy, playing cards, nature. Your nail enhancement artist can even personalize your design exclusively - just for you! E S T E T I C A ❘31

AIPP explosion Pop art, Spanish Baroque, 50’s quiffs, and futuristic extravagance at the Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle de la Coiffure.

Best Commercial Best Avant Garde

Best Photo

hen talent and passion blend to perfection. Unapologetically feminine women, comics heroines, modern Japanese warriors... the most ingenious international hairstylists flaunted all their talent and creativity at the XIV edition of the award ceremony organised by AIPP (Association Internationale Presse Professionnelle de la Coiffure), which this year recorded dizzying figures. There were 283 collections from 24 countries worldwide: thousands of photos and videos from the jury of associates who awarded the best in five categories: Commercial, Avant-Garde, Photo, Men and Best Video. Femininity to the umpteenth power for the Carita collection, winner of the Best Commercial Watch the video on your cell phone With the QR Code you can see the Best Video AIPP! Find out how on page 145

Best Men

Read the complete interviews on www.estetica.it/aipp

Best Video ESTETICAEVENT! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ w e esteticatv

32❘ E S T E T I C A

Award. Soft and sinuous forms that lend sensuality and charm, a chic style not to be taken for granted. “Neon” colours offered strong contrasts (light blue, hot pink and yellow) and an original 3D effect for Rush’s Tina Farey, victorious in the Best Avant-Garde section with creations inspired by the pop art of Roy Lichtenstein and icons like Grace Jones and Andy Warhol. The lighting of Rembrandt and El Greco, like the costumes of film Mad Max in the collection by Gemis, judged as the Best Photo Award winner. An imaginary dream projected into the future, where the majesty of lunar queens is made sumptuous by crown-like dos. And then beyond the women, the award for Best Men went to the Australian é Salon. Fascinating samurai with quiffs that evoked the 1950s transmitted strong fragmented masculinity to female sensuality. A dreamy sensuality that returns in the Best Video by Felicitas Ordás, a short subject with surreal overtones where women-geishas swallow words and emerge from futuristic screens. Now all we must do is wait for spring, when only one of the five category winners will take home the Grand Trophy Award 2011…

F A S H I O N

“It’s a dream come true! Thanks to all the international press for their support” Felicitas Ordás

Clockwise from left to right, Tina Farey for Rush, Victor Alonso for Gemis, Carita, é Salon.

E S T E T I C A ❘33

Iconic

Interiors Warm, edgy, wild, elegant. What type of salon interior and esthetic do you prefer? Some salon owners share their philosophies on iconic salon interiors. Tracy E. Banghart

HIGH TRAFFIC Angus Mitchell Salon Beverly Hills, CA www.angusmsalon.com.

ECLECTIC ARTISTIC Champions Salon Lake Forest, CA www.championssalon.com

SAFE HARBOUR Londoner Salon Manhattan beach, CA www.londonersalon.com

AWAKE - AWARE Juut Salonspa Edina, MN www.juut.com

WARM CONTEMPORARY Teeze Salon Lyndhurst, NJ www.teezesalon.com

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our experience in the salon begins long before you sit in the chair and talk to your stylist about the hot new look you want. The very design and vibe of the salon’s interior will relax you, energize you, or maybe even make you feel like a celebrity. What type of salon interior and esthetic do you prefer?

High TrafficSoothing Busy, popular salons can be challenged to create a calm, relaxed atmosphere among all the hustle and bustle. This was a concern when designing the Angus Mitchell Salon in Beverly Hills, CA. Mitchell wanted a “modern, yet welcoming” vibe for his salon. The salon’s design architect, McGuire, explains, “This was achieved by designing a series of transparent and semi-transparent glass panels that welcome the client into the salon but also keep the busy salon stations partially screened. The effect provides a sneak peek into the salon. Inspired by womanly curves, the first set of glass panels have flowing features. The wood work surface provides a great contrast to the backlit modern façade of the reception desk.”

Eclectic - Artistic And if you don’t want a soothing, low-key salon? What if you’re seeking a more energetic vibe? David Mazza, owner of Champions Salon in Lake Forest, CA, wanted something eclectic, “different from the typical salon look.” He hired a street artist to spray paint “some really cool looks” on the floor. Mazza says, “The floors have a very cool worn urban look to them.” But the eclectic vibe of the salon’s interior is just part of the whole package. The esthetic of a salon goes beyond the color of the walls or the building design. “The salon has a very fun, eclectic look, so I feel that the employees should portray that image as well. We don’t have a dress code but we say to look like you’d go to yourself for a haircut.” Another way Mazza keeps the space looking edgy and fresh: “We rotate local artists’ artwork year-round.”

Safe Harbor Anthony Morrison, owner of Londoner Salon, in Manhattan Beach, CA, and winner of the first season of Shear Genius, put a lot of thought into the design and ambiance of his salon. To him, the

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LOREM Interior settings can have a profound effect, reďŹ&#x201A;ecting on the overall salon experience

ECLECTIC - ARTISTIC

SAFE HARBOR

Design and color count, but the staff also contributes to ambiance

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most important element was to create a space where “clients feel they are in a very upscale salon without all of the upscale snobbery. They should feel comfortable, relaxed, and refreshed.” The Londoner Salon was envisioned as “a modern, elegant, delicious space that invited open communication, a sense of comfort mind, body, and spirit, and a safe harbor from the stresses of the day.” Morrison “focused on creating a rooted and rising organic feeling by using natural stone for the floor and a combination of warm and ‘familiar’ chocolate browns, creams, and gray...easy on the eyes, and familiar to the soul.” But he also wanted to create a space that would be both beautiful and functional for his team as well. He says, “The stylist stations are on wheels so we can create different looks for the salon from time to time, or accommodate the many fundraisers we have to support the community.”

Awake-Aware David Wagner, owner of Juut Salonspas, takes it one step further. He says, “I saw the changing dynamic of the traditional day spa a number of years ago and noticed how retail, restaurant design, and hospitality in general was transforming from sedate and calming decor to vibrant and fully alive energy.” He believes his employees are “stimulated creatively by the décor”, as are his clients. One client quipped, “Forget the hot tea, I’ll have a cosmo.” She felt that she was in a cool art studio, club, night spot versus a spa where you speak with hushed voices.”

WARM CONTEMPORARY

Warm Contemporary Malcolm Sillars, owner and president of Teeze Salon in Lyndhurst, NJ, says the most important functions of salon interiors are wowing new clients, and providing a comfortable, relaxing atmosphere. For his salon, “The reception area features a metal drop ceiling, tri-color slate floor and a contemporary tiled front desk for the ‘wow factor’. And the lather lounge has soft purple chairs, dim lighting, and a fireplace for a warm, comfortable atmosphere.” When asked what esthetic he was going for, he said, “I worked with my builder and my business partner, Jan DeDolce, to design the

layout and color scheme, creating a unique ambiance for the salon that I describe as warm contemporary. Before we began, the space was rectangular with no uniqueness. My design incorporated walls for separation and different levels at the Color Bar and Lather Lounge to break up the space. My partner Jan loved purple, so I used purple tones with stainless accessories for a contemporary feel. Two brick walls give the salon a Soho feel.” Whether you enjoy a soothing, spa-like vibe while getting your hair done, or an eclectic, energizing ambiance, a salon’s design is always merely a complement to the talented, helpful stylists, colorists, receptionists, and other professionals providing you the experience you expect and deserve. E S T E T I C A ❘39

Subtle

Contrasts

These are times that call for both sobriety and contrast. A subtle background and minimal make-up exalt the color, volume, and texture of stunning hair. 40â?&#x2DC; E S T E T I C A

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Cut and color can offer either the richly sculpted volume of layer upon layer of loose curls or the sumptuous gloss of timeless elegance.

Farouk Systems Hair: Rocky Vitelli & Leonel Rodriguez Photo Shoot Director: Lisa Marie Garcia Photo: Babak Photographer’s Assistant: Felix Make-up: Elena Pacienza Styling: “I Clothing Co” Laura Spiers Technical Support: Cindy Penton & Jessie Mancini

After all, bob is also a boyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name, evoking both ambiguity and mystique. Blunt cuts, geometrics, and asymmetries change mood with the time of day, changing weather, or the company.

Chrystofer Benson Hair and artistic direction: Chrystofer Benson, Logics Artistic Director Photo: Joseph Cartright Make-up: Merrill Hollis Styling: Jersey

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Cross-dressing is the ultimate prerogative of a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s domain. No frills, no excess, the perfect harmony of stripes and pois, black and white, masculine and feminine. E S T E T I C A â?&#x2DC;43

Downcast eyes belie the intense passion and power of fiery red. Are wildfires smoldering beneath such demure coyness, about to burst into flames when least expected?

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V I S I O N

Red is perfectly complemented by cool tones, lavish volume offsets small geometric patterns, sleek and neat contrasts larger graphics.

Kaaral Hair: Kristan SeraďŹ no, Chalaine Archer, Antonio Magliano, GianLuca Montebello, Andrea Meccariello Photo: Marcelo Capizzano Make-up: Alemka Krupic Styling: Big Lucy Coordination: PMS by Estetica Products: Karaal

Time glimpse A trip through time. The future of the futurists arrives from the past, plays with shapes and then lets them go free. Fluorescent touches straight out of the Eighties disturb the frequency and create a multi-input mix. Geometric lines become real and volumise the hair, thanks to wool threads tracing out shapes. Online creativity. Hair and make-up: X-Presion

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Un viaggio nel tempo. Il futuro dei futuristi arriva dal passato, gioca con le forme e le lascia in libertà. Dettagli fluo direttamente dagli anni Ottanta disturbano le frequenze, a creare un mix multi-input. Geometrie disegnate diventano tattili su un filo di lana e riempiono di volume le acconciature. Creatività online. Auf Zeitreise. Die Zukunft der Futuristen ist aus der Vergangenheit gekommen, spielt mit Formen und lässt sie frei. Neondetails aus den Achtzigern stören die Frequenzen und kreieren einen aus vielen Quellen gespeisten Mix. Geometrische Zeichnungen erwachen in einem Wollfaden zum Leben und bringen Volumen in die Frisur. Kreativität online. Voyage dans le temps. Le demain des futuristes vient du passé, joue avec les formes et les rend libres. Des détails fluo tout droit venus des années 80 perturbent la fréquence et créent un mix multi-entrée. Des géométries dessinées deviennent tactiles tel un fil de laine et remplissent de volume les coiffures. Créativité en ligne. Un viaje en el tiempo. El futuro de los futuristas llega del pasado, juega con las formas y las deja en libertad. Detalles fluo directamente de los años ochenta alteran las frecuencias, para crear un mix multi-input. Geometrías dibujadas que se vuelven táctiles sobre un hilo de lana y llenan de volumen los peinados. La creatividad online.

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Hair and make-up: X-Presion Photo: Paco PeregrĂn Make-up: Lewis Styling: Kattaca

Colour energy Lorem Ipsum

Electric blue. Fluorescent yellow. Fiery red. Be infected by the heat of colour. No-limits energy, quirking those quiffs and flowing through eyelashes. An urban up-do that flares up. A sunny yellow that proudly drops onto shoulders. The idea is to live by colours. And the time has come to amaze... Hair: Franco Curletto

Blu elettrico. Giallo fluo. Rosso fuoco. Lasciarsi contagiare dalla temperatura del colore. Nessun limite all’energia, che scuote ciuffi e irrora ciglia. Un raccolto metropolitano che divampa. Un giallo sole che ricade orgogliosamente sulle spalle. L’intenzione è vivere a colori. È arrivata l’ora di sorprendere... Elektrischblau, Fluorgelb, Feuerrot. Die Hitze der Farbe kann ziemlich ansteckend sein. Grenzenlose Energie rüttelt Strähnen wach und durchblutet Brauen. Eine metropolitane Hochfrisur lodert auf. Sonnengelb fällt stolz bis auf die Schultern. Ein Leben in Farbe. Zeit, zu überraschen... Bleu électrique. Jaune fluo. Rouge feu. Que la couleur nous envahisse. Qu’une vague d’énergie déteigne sur nos mèches et nos cils. Des cheveux relevés très métropolitains qui se dressent et s’enflamment. Un jaune soleil qui retombe avec fierté sur les épaules. Le but ? Vivre haut en couleur et, surtout, de surprendre... Azul eléctrico. Amarillo flúor. Rojo pasión. Se contagia la temperatura del color. No hay límites para la energía, que sacude mechones e inunda pestañas. El recogido metropolitano estalla mientras un amarillo como el sol resbala orgullosamente sobre los hombros. La intención es una vida en tecnicolor. Ha llegado el momento de sorprender...

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Hair: Franco Curletto Photo: Pierpaolo Ferrari Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Courtesy of: Visto su Vogue

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Dietrich Marlene

All that Mittel-European charm in those cheekbones. All that ambiguous sensuality in those mannish outfits. And those huge eyes with a killer gaze. Lola Lola lives on, burning under the refined elegance of light dresses and tilted hats. In admiring homage to one of the all-time stars. Hair: A. Bellver and R. Robie

Tutto il fascino mitteleuropeo dei suoi zigomi. Tutta la sensualità ambigua dei suoi outfit maschili. E quegli occhi grandi da cui sferrare lo sguardo killer. Lo spirito di Lola Lola vive ancora, brucia sotto la raffinata eleganza di abiti leggeri e cappelli sulle ventitrè. Un omaggio appassionato a una delle dive di sempre.

In ihren Backenknochen sitzt der ganze Charme Mitteleuropas. Dazu die mehrdeutige Sinnlichkeit ihrer maskulinen Outfits und die großen Augen, die Killerblicke versenden. Der Geist von Lola Lola lebt weiter, glüht unter der raffinierten Eleganz leichter Kleider und schräger Hütchen. Eine leidenschaftliche Verbeugung vor einer ewigen Diva.

Tout le charme de la Prusse dans un visage. Toute la sensualité ambiguë d’un style vestimentaire masculin. Et de grands yeux qui lancent des regards glacés. L’esprit de Lola Lola est encore parmi nous : des robes vaporeuses à l’élégance raffinée et des cheveux crantés portés sur le côté. Place et hommage à l’une des plus grandes divas de ce monde.

Todo el encanto centroeuropeo de sus pómulos. Toda la sensualidad ambigua de su atuendo masculino. Y esos grandes ojos que parecen lanzar miradas asesinas. El espíritu de Lola Lola sigue vivo, ardiente bajo la refinada elegancia de sus vestidos ligeros y sombreros adeados. Un homenaje apasionado a una de las divas de todos los tiempos.

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Hair: Antonio Bellver and Roberto Robie Photo: Ivan Aguirre Make-up: Ossiel Ramos Stylist: Iván Nuza Hernández esteticamoda

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Combs in C minor Like the strings on a musical instrument. In a stylist’s hands, hair vibrates and plays the tune of every woman. In a pas de deux where she expresses herself and he re-interprets. And the stylist becomes a poet, providing both voice and words for the female notes. A creative synergy that starts with the sound of the comb, surges through poetry and becomes a performance event. Hair & Concept: Salvo Filetti @ Joyà Academy

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Come corde di uno strumento. Fra le mani dello stylist i capelli vibrano e raccontano la musica di ogni donna. In un pas de deux dove lei esprime, lui reinterpreta. E lo stilista si fa poeta, dando voce e parole alle note femminili. Una sinergia creativa che parte dal suono del pettine, passa per i versi di una poesia e diventa una mostra evento. Wie die Saiten eines Instruments. In den Händen eines Stylisten vibrieren die Haare und erzählen die Musik einer Frau. Ein Pas de Deux, in dem sie sich ausdrückt und er interpretiert. Der Stylist wird zum Dichter, der die weiblichen Noten vertont. Eine kreative Synergie – vom Klang des Kamms über Gedichtzeilen bis hin zu einer Ausstellung. Telles les cordes d’un instrument. Entre les mains du styliste, les cheveux vibrent et racontent la musique de chaque femme. Un pas de deux où elle s’exprime et lui réinterprète. Le styliste se fait poète et prête sa voix et ses mots aux notes féminines. Une synergie créative qui part du son du peigne, passe par les vers d’un poème pour devenir un événement de pure beauté. Al igual que las cuerdas de un instrumento, también los cabellos vibran y hablan de la música de cada mujer entre las manos del peluquero. Un baile de pareja en el que ella expresa y él reinterpreta. El estilista se vuelve poeta, dando voz y palabras a las notas femeninas. Una empatía creativa que arranca del sonido del peine, pasa por los versos de una poesía y se convierte en una muestra evento.

L’essere umano, strumento musicale a corda.

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Nuclear physics tells us that “the real truth is energy, and vibration of this energy. Matter is an illusion”. If a human consists of vibration, then it may be possible to change one’s own vibe through thought, music, colours and sensorial stimuli. Sometimes one lives in a state of attuned vibrations, at other times in total disharmony. I am increasingly more convinced of the fact that, often and instinctively, each of us treats ourselves (particularly our hair) as a password that allows us to access our own personal vibration. I like to think of Man as a musical instrument. And, with especial regard to hair, I like to imagine him/her as a string instrument. At times we all feel “off-key, off-tone”. And often we re-tune our instrument “Man”, starting with the hair, in order to be able to “replay” and “play” in a more melodious key, in tune with ourselves. And so I think: what if my role is that of a tuner for these special human strings, hair? Through shape and colour, tensing the “strings” to just the right point in order to free the sounds within. Searching, listening, conducting, until the exact key is hit, as in a diapason. And then again: perceiving the shining vitality of hair, its silent code, I imagine the invisible essence of an individual in order to render the soul visible through beauty. It’s a strong, inner voice which reveals... ”If your hair were the physical representation of your thoughts, your emotions...” This is the invisible image of each of us. Hair language goes far beyond industry jargon, written and spoken. It oversteps the logical-analytical filters of the mind. It is able to establish a direct contact with feelings and passions hidden in the memory and imagination. Just like music.

La fisica nucleare dice che “la vera realtà è energia e vibrazione di quest’energia. La materia è illusione”. Se l’essere umano è vibrazione, allora è possibile cambiare la propria vibrazione attraverso il pensiero, la musica, i colori, gli stimoli dei sensi. Alcune volte si vive in un’armonia di vibrazioni, altre volte in disarmonia. Sono sempre più convinto dell’idea che, spesso ed istintivamente, ognuno di noi intervenga soprattutto sui propri capelli come password d’accesso verso la nuova personale vibrazione. Mi piace pensare l’essere umano come uno strumento musicale. E, in particolare, rispetto ai propri capelli, immaginarlo come uno strumento musicale a corda. Capita ad ognuno di noi di sentirsi “scordato, stonato”. E spesso riaccordiamo lo strumento “uomo” iniziando dai capelli. Per poter “risuonare” e “suonare” in modo più melodioso, in accordo con noi stessi. Allora penso: è come se il mio ruolo fosse quello di accordare queste speciali corde umane, i capelli. Attraverso la forma e il colore, tendere al punto giusto le “corde”, per liberare i suoni dell’essere. Cercare, ascoltare, orchestrare, fino ad ottenere l’intonazione esatta, come con un diapason. E poi ancora: percependo la luminosa energia dei capelli, il loro linguaggio silenzioso, immagino l’invisibile di un individuo per rendere visibile l’anima in estetica. È una voce forte, interiore, che dice: “Se i tuoi capelli avessero la forma dei tuoi pensieri, delle tue emozioni…”. Ecco l’immagine invisibile di ognuno. Il linguaggio dei capelli va ben oltre il lessico di settore, scritto e parlato. Supera i filtri logico-analitici della mente. Può stabilire un contatto diretto con i sentimenti e le passioni nascosti nella memoria e nell’immaginazione. Proprio come la musica.

Man, a stringed instrument

In der Nuklearphysik heißt es, dass die Wirklichkeit Energie sei sowie die Vibration dieser Energie. Materie dagegen sei Illusion. Wenn der Mensch also Vibration ist, dann kann man seine Schwingung durch Gedanken und Musik, durch Farben und Sinnesanregungen verändern. Manchmal leben wir in Schwingungsharmonie, manchmal in Unstimmigkeit. Es gibt eine Vorstellung, die mir immer besser gefällt: dass jeder von uns, ganz instinktiv, sich die Haare so richtet, als wären sie das Password für neue, persönliche Schwingungen. Ich stelle mir den Menschen gern als Musikinstrument vor. Und was seine Haare betrifft, besonders gern als ein Saiteninstrument. Jeder von uns fühlt sich manchmal „missgestimmt”. Und wenn wir das Instrument „Mensch” neu stimmen, beginnen wir oft mit den Haaren. Um es im Einklang mit uns selbst und melodischer als zuvor spielen zu können. Daher sehe ich meine Aufgabe darin, diese ganz besonderen menschlichen Saiten zu stimmen – die Haare. Um über ihre Form, ihre Farbe und die genau richtige Spannung den wahren Wesensklang zu befreien. Probieren, zuhören, so lange orchestrieren, bis der Ton stimmt – als hätte ich eine Stimmgabel. Indem ich die strahlende Energie der Haare und ihr beredtes Schweigen wahrnehme, stelle ich mir das Unsichtbare eines Menschen vor, um seine Seele ästhetisch sichtbar zu machen. Es ist wie eine starke innere Stimme: „Wenn deine Haare wie deine Gedanken und Gefühle aussähen…”. Genau das ist das unsichtbare Bild unser selbst. Die Sprache der Haare geht weit über den branchenüblichen Wortschatz hinaus. Sie überwindet die logisch-analytischen Filter des Verstands. Und stellt eine direkte Verbindung mit den Gefühlen und Leidenschaften her, die in unserem Gedächtnis und in unserer Vorstellung ruhen. Genau wie die Musik.

La physique nucléaire nous enseigne que la seule réalité est l’énergie et les vibrations de cette énergie. La matière n’est qu’une illusion. Si l’homme est fait de vibrations, il peut donc avoir un ascendant sur celles-ci : les modifier grâce à la pensée, la musique, les couleurs, en stimulant ses propres sens. Parfois, nos vibrations vivent en harmonie, d’autres fois, en désharmonie. Je suis de plus en plus convaincu que, souvent et instinctivement, les gens veulent changer de coiffure parce que les cheveux constituent une porte d’accès à de nouvelles vibrations personnelles. Je me plais à imaginer l’homme comme un instrument de musique. Et, notamment, du fait de ses cheveux, comme un instrument à cordes. Ça peut arriver à tout le monde, un jour ou l’autre, de « manquer de rythme » ou d’être un peu « sonné ». Alors, pour se réaccorder, l’instrument « homme » commence par ses cheveux. Afin de pouvoir se (re)mettre à jouer de façon plus mélodieuse, d’être en accord avec soi-même. Et moi, c’est comme si j’étais l’accordeur de ces cordes humaines spéciales. Par le biais de la forme, de la couleur, je tends ces « cordes » juste ce qu’il faut pour libérer le son intérieur de chacun. Chercher, écouter, orchestrer pour obtenir le bon LA, tel un diapason. Mais encore : en percevant l’énergie lumineuse des cheveux, leur langage silencieux, j’imagine le monde invisible de chaque individu pour rendre l’âme visible de façon esthétique. Il s’agit d’une voix forte, profonde, qui dit : « Si vos cheveux pouvaient avoir la forme de vos pensées, de vos émotions… ». Voici l’image invisible de chacun. Le langage des cheveux va bien au-delà du lexique spécialisé, écrit ou oral. Il franchit les filtres logicoanalytiques de l’esprit. Crée un lien direct avec les sentiments et les passions cachées au fond de la mémoire et de l’imagination. Tout comme la musique.

La física nuclear dice que “la verdadera realidad no es sino energía y vibración de esta misma energía. La materia es ilusión”. Si es verdad que el ser humano es vibración, entonces se puede modificar la propia vibración por medio del pensamiento, de la música, de los colores, de la estimulación sensorial. A veces se vive en una armonía de vibraciones, otras veces, en cambio, en desarmonía. Cada vez estoy más convencido de que todos nosotros intervenimos, instintivamente y a menudo, sobre nuestro cabello como si este fuera la contraseña para acceder a la nueva vibración personal. Me gusta pensar en el ser humano como un instrumento musical. Y por lo que a su cabello se refiere, me gusta imaginármelo como un instrumento musical de cuerda. Muchas veces nos sentimos “desafinados”, y muchas veces también volvemos a afinar el instrumento “hombre” empezando por su cabello. Se trata de poder “volver a tocar” más melodiosamente, en sintonía con nosotros mismos. Entonces me digo a mí mismo: es como si mi papel fuera el de afinar esas cuerdas humanas tan especiales que son los cabellos. Gracias a la forma y al color, tensamos esas “cuerdas” con gran exactitud, con el fin de liberar los sonidos del ser. Buscar, escuchar, orquestar, hasta obtener la entonación que deseamos, como un diapasón. Cuando percibo la luminosa energía del cabello, su lenguaje silencioso, me imagino también esa parte invisible de un individuo que me permite darle visibilidad estéticamente a su alma. “Si tus cabellos cobraran la forma de tus pensamientos, de tus emociones…”. Esta es la imagen invisible de cada uno. El lenguaje del cabello supera los filtros lógicos-analíticos de la mente y puede hasta establecer un contacto con las pasiones y los sentimientos ocultos en la memoria y en la imaginación. Exactamente igual que la música.

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Hair & Concept: Salvo Filetti @ Joyà Academy Photo: Antonio Di Maria Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Exhibition at Joyà Academy Edited by: Davide Guglielmino

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Different yet the same. Complementary? No, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than that. Almost a mirror which highlights the shade on the other side and viceversa. Double couple, loving synthesis of synonym and antonym. Sizes fuse with shapes, smooth falls in love with frizzy. The two halves arrive at (re)cognition, becoming one. Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Salons

Diversi ma uguali. Complementari? No, qualcosa di più. Quasi uno specchio che mette in luce ciò che l’altro ha in ombra e viceversa. Coppia con il doppio, amorosa sintesi di sinonimo e contrario. I volumi si fondono con le geometrie, il liscio si innamora del frisé. Le due metà si (ri)conoscono e diventano unità. Unterschiedlich, aber gleich. Mehr als komplementär. Als würde ein Spiegel jeweils ins Licht setzen, was beim anderen im Dunkeln liegt. Ein doppeltes Spiel und die liebevolle Synthese aus Synonym und Gegenteil. Volumen löst sich in Geometrien auf, Glatthaar flirtet mit Frisé. Zwei Hälften erkennen sich als Ganzes. Différents mais pareils. Complémentaires ? Non, plus. Un miroir qui montrerait le côté caché de l’autre et vice-versa. Couple version double, une douce synthèse du différent et de l’identique. Les volumes aiment les géométries, le lisse flirte avec le frisé. Les deux moitiés se (re)trouvent pour ne former plus qu’un. Distintos pero iguales. ¿Complementarios? No, algo más. Casi como un espejo que ilumina lo que en el otro vive en la sombra y viceversa. Pareja redoblada, amorosa síntesis de sinónimo y contrario. Los volúmenes se funden en las geometrías, el liso se enamora del afro. Ambas mitades se (re)conocen y se vuelven una unidad.

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Hair: Anne Veck for Anne Veck Salons Photo: Barry Jeffery Make-up: Gosia Styling: Kate Jeffery

Night Traditionally the city of love, but also of science and fashion. In Paris, anything and everything can happen. You can even glimpse modern and provocative Marie Antoinettes parading at night, complete with fancy hair and tight leather outfits. Cherchez la femme. Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas and John Simpson Città dell’amore, ma anche delle scienze o della moda. Nella multiforme Parigi tutto può succedere. Anche vedersi sfilare accanto, nella notte, delle moderne e provocanti Marie Antoinette, dalle elaborate acconciature e dagli stretti tubini di pelle. Cherchez la femme. Die Stadt der Liebe ist auch die Stadt der Mode und der Wissenschaft. Im vielfältigen Paris ist alles möglich, auch überraschende nächtliche Begegnungen mit modernen und provokanten Marie Antoinettes in engen Lederhüllen und mit ausgefeilten Frisuren. Cherchez la femme.

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Ville de l’amour, mais aussi des sciences ou de la mode. Dans ce Paris aux mille visages, tout peut arriver. Même voir, dans la nuit, défiler des MarieAntoinette fashionistas et provocantes, aux coiffures recherchées et habillées de cuir moulant. Cherchez la femme. Urbes del amor, pero también ciudades de las ciencias o de la moda. Todo es posible en la París multiforme. Incluso ver desfilar junto a ti, inmersas en la noche, provocativas y modernas Marie Antoinette, luciendo peinados sofisticados y estrechas faldas tubo de piel. Cherchez la femme.

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Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas and John Simpson Photo: Babak Make-up: Dragan Vurgelji Styling: Xenia Bous Products: Goldwell

k n Pu

nni A 35 a t dead. più vitale o n is Punk cita è ra ad ua nas dalla s E riesce anco a ll i. e a d m che ondo . Dal m rti ispirare uello delle a , la q re moda a per la coiffu i stata o d n a è ma n o pass n e egna tazion contes cente. All’ins u , ma d ) e io s r ì s co bbligato rosso, o ( ro e del n libera a lo: via non so ile. Punk is not dead. 35 Jahre nach vo pizzi e seiner Geburt ist er lebendiger denn je. Und inspiriert uns immer noch. Von der Mode über die Kunst bis hin zur Coiffure: Nie war Protest so verführerisch. Schwarz ist obligatorisch, aber nicht alles: auch Rot, Spitzen und Tüll sind jetzt erlaubt.

A tti tude

Punk is not dead. Thirty-five years on and it’s still alive and kicking. Still able to inspire. From the fashion world to the art world to the world of hair, the protest movement has never been so sexy. Dominated by black (a must) but not only: thumbs up also to red, lace and voile. Courtesy of Europunk exhibition

Fashion Ed itor: Laura Fashion P C hotos: Juri astelli/ Copy by: D aniela Gia Romano Studio mbrone

Punk is not dead. Après 35 ans, il est pl us jamais. Et co vivant que ntinue enco re à inspirer. D u monde de la mode et de s arts en pa ssant par la coiff ure, la cont estation n’a jamais été aussi séduisante . À l’enseign e du noir (obl igé) mais pa s seulement : libre cour s au rouge, dent elles et voile . Punk is not dead. A sus 35 años de vida aún sigue si endo fuente de in spiración y su espíritu es más vital qu e nunca. Del mundo de la moda al de las ar tes, pasand o por la peluquería, la pr la cumbre de otesta está en la seducció n. Bajo el esta ndarte del ne gro (obligado), aunque no está solo: rienda suelta al ro jo, a las puntill as y a las ga sas.

Hair: Klaus Peter Ochs Photo: Axel Zajaczek Make-up: Gudrun M端ller Styling: Audrey Mieyevill Products: Wella Professionals

Yohji Yamamoto

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Left and right Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Sabine Liewald Make-up: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler 90 â?&#x2DC;

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Combat Rock!

Urban heroines fiercely dance. Defended by invisible armour. Colourful crests, leather jackets and that unerring rebel charm. Bullseye.

Rosso e ne ro. Catene e borchie. Il punk ha i su oi punti fermi. I contrasti so no il suo must, la sorpresa e la provoc azione le su e soddisfazion i. Look cres ta troppo prev edibile? La donna pu nk inside sa come sostitu irla fiammeggian . Corti ti, carré graf ici e netti da m ettere su sopracciglia in evidenza . Pronta per mordere la strada. Rot und Sch warz. Kette n und Nieten. Auc h der Punk hat seine Stand ards. Kontr aste sind Pflicht; Provokation und Überras chung mac hen ihm Spaß. S tatt dem üb lichen Iro-Schnitt fällt den Punkgemüt ern unter de n Frauen Bes seres ein: flammende s Kur und graphisc zhaar h-saubere Carrés knap p über den Augen brauen. Ab auf die S traße!

Red and black. Chains and studs. Punk has its own characteristics. Contrasts are a must, surprise and provocation provide the ultimate satisfaction. Find a punk crest too predictable? The inner woman punk knows just what to do. Fiery short hair, artistic neat bobs dropping towards darkened eyebrows. Fearless, afraid of no-one.

s et haîne rs. oir. C es valeu , n t e s e st a g u u k un nm Ro ont u . Le p s clous ntrastes s rovoc’, de p p o o r c t a l s e t e t e L ê ok cr nk rprise la su ctions. Lo mme « pu e fa satis ble ? La f sans. re si prévi » peut fai ts, carrés er e rt an d y i o ins , à po mb récis ts fla Cour ques et p oyants. i v graph s sourcils la route e … d e r r rd su à mo Prête es dents. n i y à ple enas . Cad e o r g e s. yn sigu Rojo . El punk ses sólida s a a b l n r e n o v o l b ndo c e vue conta ntrastes s nhelan la o a c ción. Los s, se rativo a provoca do e p m l i a masi esa y sorpr cresta de ujer punk s k to m o . Cor ¿Lo ? La cible ustituirla ficas e d e r s á p r cómo as y g sabe ntes, net das, a a as. r e d s cej llam itas cua bre la alle. n o e l s e s c a m nciad rse la evide ara come p a List

Left Hair: Mark Leeson for Goldwell Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Make-up: Denise Rabor Styling: Bernard Connelly Right Hair: Bastian Casaretto and Herbert Ploenes for Aveda Photo: Cathleen Wolf Make-up: Nino Allegro

Left Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Sabine Liewald Make-up: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler Right Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Art Direction: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Photo: Desmond Murray Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Lana Sotnikova

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John Richmond

Roberto Cavalli

trade, rough ll is e.p, in, 1977 co Maqu a , Paris i Metal Urb Urbain de Métal do 45 giri n ébris, Eric D na del seco ti coper

Grafik in stark en Sei es auf dem Farben. in der a Laufste lt g aktuell ernativen Pha , er Des igner, o ntasie den Pla der k bis zum aten von dam in als, die 20. Mä der Rü r ckscha z in Rom in u La cult ura vis Europunk. iva pun Europa k in g Die Re ezeigt werde n. bellion s nur Mu h sik gem at nicht acht. Graphis m Sur les e aux teintes p fo l’imagin odiums, dans rtes. a styliste ire alternatif des s sur les actuels, tout co aff exposé iches d’hier mme es à Ro m 20 mar s, dans e, jusqu’au la rétro Europu sp nk punk e . La culture v ective n Europ isuelle e. découv re com Où l’on b de la p rotesta ien l’heure tion n’a envahi p que la musiqu as e.

Strong graphics in forceful colours. On the catwalks and in the alternative fantasy of today’s designers, as in these original posters on show in Rome until 20th March in the retrospective Europunk. Visual punk culture in Europe. And the message rings loud and clear – yesterday’s passionate protest infected not only music.

Gráfica de colores fuertes. En las pasarelas, en la imaginación alternativa de los estilistas de actualidad y en los posters de aquella época, expuestos en Roma hasta el 20 de marzo en la retrospectiva Europunk. La cultura visiva punk en Europa. Se descubre que la urgente protesta de entonces no se limitó a contagiar solamente la música.

Givenchy

Hea vy Givenchy

Jamie Reid, post 977, collezione er per l'uscita del disco, 'Pretty vacant Stolper Wils on ' dei Sex Pist ols,

Grafica a tinte forti. Sulle passerelle, nell’immaginario alternativo degli stilisti attuali, così come nei manifesti dell’epoca, esposti a Roma fino al 20 marzo nella retrospettiva “Europunk. La cultura visiva punk in Europa”. E si scopre quanto l’urgenza di protesta di allora non abbia contagiato solo la musica.

God save the Queen

The ironic-revolutionary slogan of the past. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a quote in a mirror game, where it becomes an act of homage to creative femininity. Because Woman is the true queen nowadays.

Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team Art Direction: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Photo: Desmond Murray Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Lana Sotnikova

Ann Demeulemeester

Black leather. Heute so faszinierend wie damals. Verführerisch und mit Transformationspower. Wer hat behauptet, dass es für Fetish und Dark stehen muss? Ein Kostüm ist elegant, auch wenn es aus Leder ist. Pflicht-Detail: geometrisch inspiriertes, strenges Glanzhaar.

r. Its appeal Black leathe s seductive A is endless. ho sformist. W as it is tran mere a be to s said it ha e fetish and th synonym of ill st n ca A suit dark side? her. even in leat be elegant, dtie – on iti nd With one co shiny rpe su ir, back ha ric. and geomet

Noir, c’est cuir. Un charme éternel. Autant séduisant que transformiste. Qui a dit que le cuir était seulement synonyme de fétichisme et d’obscurité de l’âme ? Un tailleur est toujours élégant même si tout en cuir. Détails IT : cheveux tirés, brillants et géométriques.

r. Il suo Black leathe . amontabile tr in è o in fasc to an qu cente Tanto sedu tto . Chi l’ha de trasformista lo so re esse che debba fetish e lato sinonimo di ane tailleur rim oscuro? Un o tt tu che se bon ton an taglio must: di pelle. Det cidi, di i, lu capelli tirat . geometrica ispirazione

Versace

Black lea ther. Su hechiz oe y tan sedu s inoxidable, ctor como transform ista. ¿Quié n dice que deb solamente a ser si fetiche y la nónimo de do oscuro ? traje de c haqueta si Un gue mantenie ndo sus m odales aún siend o todo de piel. Un impera tivo: cabe llos tirantes, b rillantes, de inspiració n geométr ica.

100 ❘

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Versace

bLACK

Right Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Sabine Liewald Make-up: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler

Versace

Left Hair: Treubel for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Thomas Pierre Schwab Make-up: Alemka Krupic Styling: Angela Marcato Coordination: PMS by Estetica

I am an anti-Christ

Or so the Sex Pistols sang in 1976. Today the desire to shock remains strong, but more for fun and surprise. In a witty role game, where religious allusions provide fashion-based amusement.

Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team Art Direction: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Photo: Desmond Murray Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Lana Sotnikova 102 â?&#x2DC;

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Jean-Paul Gaultier

Jeremy Scott

te . „Schlech Evolution eißt Punk h s a d – Qualität“ gann und so be übersetzt, ische, ur, die rebell e Subkult rmistisch fo e. n o tt k a ti h n a rfolg solchen E mourla die dann G r e d eute in Und die h . rückkehrt zu n io rs Ve lüsse und h c rs ve iß Wo Re n für äßigkeite Unregelm s stehen e rt e id hne Maßgesc nd klare u n e Farbe und stark iffure. Haute Co Linien für e gnifie « d s. Punk si le ù Évolution d’o qualité » mauvaise bculture si i, su e tt e c e nom d rmiste qu anticonfo rebelle et utant de a u e a ire, au contra urd’hui, jo t qui, au succès. E lam. Avec g n io rs ve revient en our un p s ie métr zips et asy el et couleurs onn look pers rées pour gnes épu li t e s e fort re. fu if o aute-c un côté h

( ) Evolution. Punk means “low quality”, this is the origin of that rebellious and anti-conformist sub-culture which became so popular. And now it’s back in a new glamorous version. Where zips and irregularity are synonymous with tailor-made, strong colours and neat cuts are synonymous with haute coiffure.

Givenchy

Evoluzioni. Punk significa “di scarsa qualità”, da qui il nome di quella sub-culture così ribelle e anticonformista che invece ha avuto tanta fortuna. E che oggi torna in una veste davvero glam. Dove cerniere e irregolarità sono sinonimo di tailor made, colori forti e linee nette sono sinonimo di haute coiffure.

Evolu c “de e iones. Pu n s el no casa cali k significa da m tan re bre de es d”, de aq u a b que t elde y an sub-cult í u uvo, t i c o nform ra sin e suert mb ist e envu . Y que ho argo, tan a elta e ta y vue n En él l , crem un vestid ve o gla irreg allera ul m. se de he aridades s cho a o n s inóni los c mano m ol netas ores fuer , así com o t e s s y las o peluq on sinón imo d líneas uería . e alta

Left Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Sabine Liewald Make-up: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler Right Hair: Mark Leeson for Goldwell Photos: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Denise Rabor Styling: Bernard Connelly

Gucci

Betsey Johnson

Jean-Paul Gaultier

(

Love kills

The Ramones knew what they were talking about. Nothing is more dangerous than loving a beautiful woman. Add that to punk irony, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no chance of redemption...

Hair: icono Creative Team Photo: David Ulrich Make-up: Franziska Dominick Styling: Kilian Kerner

)

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Féminité ? Déclarée mais non conventionnelle. Couleur ? Oui, mais avec des nuances inattendues. Aujourd’hui, la punk attitude se traduit par une esthétique réfléchie, colorée et de caractère. Qui ne vise que les plus audacieuses. Mèches, coupes dégradées, touffes à mater. Tout le charme de l’anarchie.

Rock

Weiblichkeit? Absolut, aber nicht konventionell. Farbe? Schon, doch mit überraschenden Nuancen. Punk Attitude übersetzt sich heute in eine überlegte, bunte, charaktervolle Ästhetik. Nur für kühne Geister. Dichte Schöpfe, Irokesen, Stufenschnitte, ungezähmte Locken. Der Charme der Anarchie. Left Hair: Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Sabine Liewald Make-up: Nicole Jaritz Styling: Natascha Eichler

EA VY

Femminilità? Sì, dichiarata ma non convenzionale. Colore? Sì, ma con nuance imprevedibili. Oggi la punk attitude si traduce in un’estetica ragionata, colorata e di carattere. Che detta regole solo per le più audaci. Ciuffi, creste, tagli scalati, ciocche da addomesticare. Il fascino dell’anarchia.

Femininity? Yes, openly declared but non-conventional. Colour? Yes, but nothing predictable. Punk attitude today is a form of rational aesthetics, colourful and strong. Laying down rules that apply only to the most daring. Quiffs, crests, layers, hair waiting to be tamed. The temptation of anarchy

Photo: Gettyimages

¿Feminidad? Sí, declarada aunque no convencional. ¿Color? Sí, pero de tonalidades insospechadas. Hoy en día, la actitud punk se traduce en una estética razonada, de colores y con carácter. Que dicta las reglas sólo para las más atrevidas. Mechones, crestas, cortes escalados, mechas para domar. El encanto de la anarquía. Above right Hair: Michael Marenco Photo: Dan Carabas Make-up: Virginie Rascle

M e t a l

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Jean-Paul Gaultier

Hair: Püts for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Thomas Pierre Schwab Make-up: Alemka Krupic Styling: Angela Marcato Coordination: PMS by Estetica

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Color-comfy

Clients

Top colorists share their tips and tricks for suc ccessful color consu ultations and satisffied clients, plus some e ideas on how to va alue add services and ensure clientt loyalty. by b y Tracy E. Banghart

116❘ E S T E T I C A

ith the evolution of fantastic, hair-healthy products to color and protect colortreated hair, more and more women are brightening their current color or going for a dramatic, spectacular change. What can colorists and salons do to ensure that the transition to colored hair is a positive, confidence-inducing experience for their clients? What’s the best way to turn firsttime color clients to loyal repeat visitors? Read on to find out!

Take the Time Often a client’s perfect experience can begin even before the actual appointment. David Adams, Cofounder and President of redCHOCOLATE and former Aveda Technical Artistic Director, recommends scheduling a 30-min innuutte consultation with new color clients before anny treatment. He explains, “Consultations are usually squeezed in at the start of a regular appointment and there are so many factors that can subtract valuable minutes, whether the client is running late or the salon is a few minutes off schedule.” He gives many reasons for this approach: when rushed, clients will often choose their normal routine instead of trying something different, or someone will book for the wrong type of appointment. Adams says, “Every redo, every guest complaint, everything comes down to the consultation. It is the cornerstone of your hair color business.”

B U S I N E S S

Red Re ed dC Choco olla lat aatte for o Aveda

R ken Red ken ke n

Farouk Sytems

Color can be versatile with darker to lighter tones that shift when parted differently

First Impression

Getting the Right Answers

When your client walks into your salon, pay attention. Jesse Marcks, Goldwell North American Guest Artist, suggests, “Make sure you see the client before they are hidden behind a cape. How do they present themselves? Clothing, makeup, accessories… Are they conservative, classic, trendy or edgy? Their color should invoke feelings and tell a story. What do they want to feel and say? We can put a great color on a woman but if it doesn’t ‘fit’ her, we haven’t truly done our job.”

Sometimes listening is all about asking the right questions. Stephanie Kocielski, Paul Mitchell Artistic Director, likes to ask new clients for their “permission to evolve them”. She wants every new client to feel comfortable with her and trust that she will steward their new look successfully. She’ll ask her clients, “Why are you coming to see me? What are your expectations?” Stanko likes to ask, “Who do you want to be?”. He says, “By using key words, I help my clients identify their image—tailored and successful, casual and carefree or sultry and sexy—and polish it. It doesn’t matter how I see a client: the only vision that matters is the client’s personal self-image, which my questions reveal.”

After you’ve noticed these details about your client, prepare to listen, listen, listen. As David Stanko, Redken Haircolor Consultant, points out, “Clients want to be heard, given attention and convinced that their colorist is actively listening, and as a result is able meet the client’s needs and solve his or her problems. I compare the art of the consultation to the art of dating: If you don’t prove you are listening, you won’t get a second date – or in the salon circumstance, a repeat client.” Nancy Braun, L’Oreal celebrity colorist, agrees. She says, “It’s better to listen than to speak at first. Find out what she likes and dislikes about her hair! Women are very vocal about their hair so the hairdresser must LISTEN. Then, after you gather the facts, the hairdresser and client should begin a dialogue to determine what services will be executed.”

It can also be very helpful for clients to bring in pictures or items for inspiration. Marcks always asks for images. Adams says, “I ask my clients to bring things in; I get pictures, fabric, paint swatches, you name it. I once had a client who got a new bright red Mercedes Benz with cream interior and a wooden dash. She took me outside so I could see her in the car. She didn’t care what I did, as long as her hair looked amazing when she was in the car with the top

E S T E T I C A ❘117

Time and Money Next, it’s important to ask the client how much time they wish to spend in the salon. Aura Friedman, Wella Professionals Color Ambassador, gives this advice to clients thinking about changing their color: “Determine how much maintenance will be required to upkeep the color and how much time and money you’re willing to invest in the process.” Marcks points out, “Sometimes there is a cost consideration. Trust and loyalty are gained when I find that perfect color service to meet ALL of my client’s needs.” Kocielski echoes this sentiment, saying ,”The last thing I want is for someone to dump a bucket of money into the salon and not feel they got their money’s worth.” 118❘ E S T E T I C A

Paul Mitchell

Gol olldwe o d ll

W laa Pr We Wel Pro P rofes fessio fe sional nals

down.” Braun also asks for photos. She says about 50% of her clients have some image to refer to and these photos spark discussion. She says, “I listen for key words they use to describe their color, i.e. brassy or ashy or honey or sun-kissed, baby blonde… each word helps me understand how they identify color.” As George Papanikolas, Joico Celebrity Stylist, points out, “One person’s idea of a buttery blonde is another person’s ashy blonde or brassy blonde, so pictures are very important to have references for clients to refer to.” He suggests keeping an “inspiration book” of photos and magazine cut-outs to give your clients ideas and make sure you’re all on the same page.

And to ensure gorgeous, long-lasting color, you must start with healthy hair. Many colorists recommend conditioning treatments first or just after having the color done. Others suggest changing a client’s color in stages.

Stages Kocielski says, “Rome wasn’t built in a day. Let me get you there in three visits instead of one for the health of your hair and our business relationship. It’s all about keeping a client’s hair healthy, and keeping the integrity of their hair.” Papanikolas offers this advice, “I suggest finding a look that is flattering and not too far from my client’s natural. This way, the maintenance will be less demanding, and the damage it incurs on the hair will be minimal. Also, if they want a drastic change, it’s best to do it over a series of months rather than one day.” As Marcks says, “Color is a journey, not a destination.”

What’s Hot for Spring So what will be the hot colors this spring? Rocky Vitelli, Farouk Systems Global Artistic Board Member, says, “Have a color that is versatile when parted lighter to darker tones and visa versa when parted

B U S I N E S S

All About Confidence differently. Use sulfate and paraben free Farouk Royal Treatment Shampoo and Conditioner to maintain color vibrancy.” Stanko recommends, “Redken Blonde Icing Conditioning Cream Lightener for lightening and brightening key areas, such as the fringe, long layers or selected strands.” For Adams, “I am an advocate of regular color change, whether slight or drastic. It’s one of the easiest things a guest can do to enhance their image. Think about offering yourr guests a seasonal change. I use Aveda Full Spectrum ectrum Hair Color which iis organized like an artist’s rtist’s palette of paints. Pigments can be mixed to create endless shade possibilities; it is the ideal line for creating ‘co co c out utur u e color’.” And finally, Friedman Frie thinks we’ll be se eeing lots of highlighting this spring, spri but “we ew wiillll be tto onniing n them warmer, golden and rose ose gold with Wellaa P Prrof ofesssi s onals’ Color Touch as a gloss after highlights.” Giving your clients a grea ea at ne new hair color isn’t the end of your job, however. Therre e’’s still more you o can do to ensu suure a happy, loyal client.

Braun says, “Confidence is sexy,” and she’s absolutely right. One of the best things you can do for your client is help her “own” her new look. This means, according to Papanikolas, “helping her reevaluate her wardrobe and make-up to make the entire look come together. She might need a little bronzer with her new highlights, the latest neon colored fashions might be perfect with her sunkissed highlights. Or a more ivory foundation will flatter her newly coppered hue.” Adams’ advice to his clients? “Make sure you have good instructions from your stylist sty st on o home o e care, ca e, and a d make a e sure su e you have a e the t e right products to preserve hair health and achieve the style you want. Your hair color will not look its best if you style your hair poorly.” Friedman says, “When changing a client’s color you must be very clear on the maintenance and give them the best care products to protect the hair. Wella’s new Brilliance care regimen for color-treated hair is designed to c work rk w with Wella color and it maintains the color so much longe nger.” It all comes down to tr trust and YOUR confidence as well. As Stanko points out, “When you are confident in your own choices, you cann pro provide reassurance throughout the service. Let the client ent kknow the new color will look great; co-workers and desk esk p personnel should also let the client know it does look great. great When the client fully achieves her personally described self-image, she owns it.” Give your client confidence in you AND her new look by listening, providing exceptional service, and e evolving her style in the way most comfortable ffor her h – and healthy for her hair.

Goldwell’s Jesse Marcks reminds us that color is a journey, not a destination

ince the early 1970s, Kurt Kueffner worked as a barber and cosmetologist with no specific gender bias, but his business acumen soon led him to specialize in men’s grooming, counting important roles in education and product development for men with such name brands as American Crew, K.M.S., and Joe Grooming as career stepping stones to his current position with Aveda. Cerebral yet down to earth, Kueffner share his viewpoint on the potential of this market with EsteticaUSA.

S Manly

Mission

Kurt Kueffner, Founder of The MENSDEPT. & Director of Men’s Business Development for Aveda is something of a legend in his own time, one of the few greats dedicated exclusively to men’s grooming. by Marie Scarano

120❘ E S T E T I C A

How do barbershops differ from men’s grooming salons?

Men haven’t changed, nor has the men’s grooming market. The beauty industry has gone from ‘corner business’ to a booming industry, while men have migrated to chain salons in strip malls, leaving a massive opportunity. Men’s grooming should focus on technique and how technical services relate to modern fashion. I think barbershops and beauty parlors have made an invaluable contribution, but they always lack a disposition that a consumer can trust. Guests now demand services that are appropriate and contemporary. Who are your target clients and how do you plan to broaden your client base?

We do all ages, though we do have a swell in the young professional age group, 25 to 35. Referrals and promotions are crucial for recruiting new guests, but the most important aspect is establishing a. Once they experience MENSDEPT. service, I know they’ll be back. Can hairstylists be “cross-overs”, or must they specialize?

No one has planted both feet in modern men’s hair cutting. There are salons that have pool tables, flat screen TV’s and cleavage, but none say, “We’re doing better men’s haircuts than anyone else.” Men’s salons today have great decor, not a business strategy. I think some professionals can differentiate between male and female guests—technically, in service, customer relationships, guest expectation. If you can switch

I N T E R V I E W

gears, you’ll succeed, but if you think you can catch both with one disposition, you’re wrong. You have to express your commitment to men in a way that is truly sensorial.

Kueffner is transforming modern male grooming into an experience tailored to the wants and needs of men

Must products be men-specific?

Men’s products have to work without heat, they do not blow-dry. They must be formulated for short hair and developed keeping in mind that 95% of men’s products migrate to the scalp with perspiration. Men’s scalps are thicker than women’s and can produce up to twice the oil, making them more prone to sensitivity, dryness, irritation, redness and other unpleasant scalp conditions. Aveda Men products address male-specific hair and skin care, so many clients will use them forever, finally having experienced relief from psoriasis. How interested are men in hair trends, coloring, treatments, and overall looks?

Men are as interested in their hair as women are. They aren’t always concerned about trends, but like looking smart, appropriate and modern. They never like looking like they just got a haircut or are experimenting with their look. Highlighting very short hair is difficult, and every time you cut a guy’s hair, you cut away half the color, so 80% of the color services we perform are grey blending for a less conspicuous result. Hair, beard, and sideburns are all part of grooming. If a man wears a beard, he gets it trimmed with every haircut. All 50 states allow barbers to do shaves, but very few allow cosmetologists use a razor on skin. So in some cases, he can get the works in one stop, and in others he cannot, unless he goes to a barber.

Men are habitual and soon expect consistent service every time. We’re looking at shaving and skin care, but first we’ll master the fundamentals of our current business. What retail strategies do you implement?

At MENSDEPT we believe that products are sold in the consultation. We have 4 questions that we ask every customer every time: 1. What is your service interval? 2. What hair products do you generally use? 3. Is there a length you’re most comfortable with? Their answers will tell you everything you need to know. The fourth question is very important: Is there anything else I need to know? Not only does this question mark the end of the consultation, you also learn about special occasions or travel plans that may impact the timing of future services, making it easier to take care of your guest. What role does education play?

Education is everything, whether we’re talking about technique or understanding front desk strategies. We’re learning on all fronts. On July 1, 2011, I’ll be launching a new men’s education program called The MENSDEPT. Method: The Architecture of Men’s Hair. Men’s hair doesn’t limit creativity, the parameters are just tighter.

You pamper your clients with in-office service, T-shirts, grooming packages. What’s next?

I’ve learned that men are afraid of what they don’t understand. So when we offer a t-shirt for them to change into, we explain: “We offer all of our clients a t-shirt to prevent hair from getting on their shirt, would you like one?” Once you remove the risk, they relax. And once they’ve experienced superior service, they’ll stand in line for the t-shirt and a warm towel. “I think subtle products are lost on men - with short hair performance has to be overt or it will be invisible.” E S T E T I C A ❘121

Caring

Community

The haircare product industry is perhaps one of the most generous, promoting a wide variety of initiatives on corporate, salon, and individual levels to give back and sometimes give forward to those in need.

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nthropologists maintain that preening is a primate behaviour that consolidates a sense of alliance and belonging to a group or community. Perhaps this is why hairdressers as a group are often active in community, social, and environmental initiatives, as they must be the ultimate preeners, creating their own communities, fostering a sense of trust and participation with their clients visit after visit, chatting about current events or about their deepest needs or aspirations, transforming them and building their self-esteem. It is no small wonder that the entire haircare industry espouses a wide variety of social and environmental causes.

The City of Hope Spirit of Life Award City of Hope in Duarte, California is a leading research and treatment center for cancer mostly, but also for diabetes and other life-threatening diseases. In 1981 its National Professional Salon Industry Group was founded in the hope of creating a constant flow of support for such a worthy cause and has succeeded, up until now, in raising $13 million for advanced research, treatment and education. With a view to further promoting these efforts, an annual tradition has been established to pay homage to industry leaders for business and philanthropic achievements through the Spirit of Life Award. This year, Joico Senior Vice President and General Manager Sara Jones will be presented with this prestigious award at the Spirit of Life Award Dinner to be held during the PBAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty Week in July in Las Vegas, which always promises to be a glamorous gala event. Jones makes good use of her corporate leadership position to inspire support and raise funds for a wide variety of causes, including breast cancer, leading a team of colleagues to join the Walk for Hope in Los Angeles to raise funds for the institute. Joico also supported Heart Month last February by donating proceeds from the K-PAK ReconstrRx VaporIron to raise awareness by bringing the program down to a grassroots level. Jones commented, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Together, I believe that City of Hope and Joico can make an important

C H A R I T Y

difference in the lives of beauty industry professionals, salon clients, and women around the world, and I am thrilled to be this year’s Spirit of Life honoree.” Her award will be dedicated to all the salon professionals who use their skills to make people look and feel beautiful every day, including clients who are battling cancer, presenting even more challenges for salon professionals.

More of the Big “C” Sexy Hair makes this a case in point by choosing to partner with “Look Good…Feel Better®”, an organization dedicated to improving the self-esteem and quality of life of people undergoing cancer treatments by improving their self-image. Last year in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, ten-cents from each sale of a limited edition of pink cans of Sexy Hair styling & finishing products were donated to LGFB. Redken also supported COH with a Cut-a-Thon, featuring more than 100 Redken Artists volunteering their time in 10 states offering consumers stylish coifs in exchange for a minimum donation of $30. Other companies on the anti-cancer bandwagon include Farouk Systems, who have taken to heart the plight of Taylor, a young girl fighting kidney cancer, by offering part of the proceeds from the sale of an awareness kit of BioSilk Kids BubbleGum, Bubbles No Tear Shampoo, and No Kink Conditioner to the University of Texas MD Anderson Medical Center.

Helping others help themselves Standing by his belief that “Success not shared is failure”, John Paul Dejoria, co-founder and CEO of JPMS, supports a wide variety of philanthropic programs worldwide, having spearheaded Matter of Trust’s efforts to counteract the Gulf of Mexico Oil spill, sponsoring sports programs, and fighting against cancer. But one cause is particularly close to home: Grow Appalachia, intended to offer residents in this region healthy food options, and stronger sense of community, and potential sources of new income. The program literally starts from the

The City of Hope Spirit of Life Award is a festive event that encompasses the entire haircare industry, paying homage to outstanding individual in both business and philanthropy. Top: City of Hope laboratory and Golter Gate; Joico’s parent company Zoto headquarters in Geneva, NY; The City of Hope fountain; Invitation to the City of Hope Spirit of Life Award Gala in honor of Sara Jones.

Above, Paul Mitchell Schools celebrate Earth Day 2010 with low-cost haircuts to beneﬁt Grow Appalachia; right and below, eco-aware Aveda sells Light the Way Candles to protect clean water worldwide.

ground up, helping families create and maintain productive, low-cost gardens through educational programs about gardening and food preservation techniques, making residents more self-sufficient. Paul Mitchell Schools also participate in fundraising for this program, while this past Christmas, a portion of the proceeds from Paul Mitchell® gift sets was donated to the cause. This year Grow Appalachia estimates that the total food harvested will amount to about 60 tons at a total cost of $1.25/lb and has plans to reach nearly 1000 people over the next season. Now that’s some food for thought! Instead, further away from home, Wella Professionals, the flagship brand of P&G Salon Professional, a division of P&G Beauty and Grooming, is teaming up with UNICEF, the world’s leading children’s organization, to help train young adults in Brazil with life skills, including hairdressing, in the Making Waves program. During 2011 Wella will be funding and managing 3 special hairdressing courses in UNICEF Centers in Rio, Fortalazza and Belem, opening a door to a much brighter future for the young participants. But Wella is taking a more global approach by putting Germany into the mix. Beginning in July 2011, hairstylists from Wella salons in Germany will visit the hairdressing courses in Brazil for a two-week period to take the students under their wings, sharing skills and experience alike. The plan is to eventually involve more countries, like the UK and The hottest initiative is Matrix’s Chairs of Change, an on-line community to promote giving on all levels: industry, salon, and individual.

Hair product companies support a wide range of initiatives: diseases, ecology, self-help

C H A R I T Y

others, in this unique mentoring program as well. Mark Hopkinson, Head of Business Development at UNICEF UK, has been working with Wella on this program. He observes, “The additional resource that Wella brings to the table makes this partnership so exciting for UNICEF. We know that vocational training is critical for young people, to ensure that they fulfill their right to reach their full potential as they enter adulthood. The funding Wella is providing is hugely important in providing critical training, and we are excited that Wella are sharing their hairdressing expertise to offer young adults specific hairdressing training as part of the program.” There is a famous African proverb- “It takes a village to raise a child” - and Wella seems to truly believe that investing in youth is the same as investing in our future, sparing neither time nor expense. Gabi Schupp, General Manager of Wella Professionals, explains, “As a leading salon brand, Wella believes it has a responsibility to give back not only to the industry, but also to wider society. Some of our hair stylists are already personally engaged in various causes and with this program we aim to harness this passion and their efforts to make a dramatic difference, allowing more stylists to get involved. Stylists are passionate about their craft and are the ideal ambassadors to share their talents and industry insights with a new audience. With Making Waves, we hope to create a lasting legacy that all of us - hair stylists, Wella and UNICEF - can take great pride in.”

Water, water everywhere… Aveda, a long-time champion in the global fight for clean water, has announced April to be Aveda Earth Month 2011, launching a campaign to inspire its beauty professionals and consumers worldwide to raise $4 million to protect what should be a basic human right that is too often denied. Twelve years of the Aveda Earth Month campaign has raised more than $18 million dollars for environmental organizations and another $12 million for water-related causes over the past four years. By buying a 2011 Light the WayTM soy wax candle during earth month, Aveda will donate 100%

of the purchase price to the Global Greenhouse Fund. Hopefully stocks will sell out, amounting to a contribution of $1.34 million. Now that’s something to drink to! Instead, Pureology is targeting young people and education on a more grassroots level by partnering with Global Green USA’s Green School Makeover Competition. From March 1 to September 1, 2011, anyone can nominate any K-12 school for a makeover. One school will be selected to receive a “green makeover” and four finalist schools will win $2500 for their sustainable upgrades. “Pureology is proud to have supported Global Green’s extraordinary programs over the past two years and to increase our support in 2011 by presenting Global Green USA’s Green School Makeover Competition,” states Shae Kalyani, Vice President of Marketing for Pureology. “Throughout 2011, Pureology will offer client product promotions in salons and donate a total of $250,000 to Global Green USA’s Green School Makeover Competition Presented by Pureology.”

Matrix “Chairs of Change” Almost as if to wrap up all of the above, Matrix has most recently founded and announced at its Imagination event a movement called “Chairs of Change” in celebration of the positive impact hairdressers make on their own lives, their client’s communities, and the world through three types of change: personal, professional, and social. Matrix Vice President and General Manager Colin Walsh boasts, “Who hasn’t walked out of a salon feeling better than when they walked in? We all know that at the core of the profession is the depth of hairdressers’ care for their clients. What may be less obvious is the hairstylist community’s commitment to extend that positive influence beyond the chair and into the world. Chairs of Change will be the way that we serve this generous community with support and guidance.” The online community at www.chairsofchange.com is expected to serve as a forum where stylists can indulge in an exchange and find kudos and support. Chicago salon owner Nick Stenson says, “We love to help people. It’s in our blood. It’s what we do and who we are.” We couldn’t have said it better!

E S T E T I C A ❘125

Alarm Formaldehyde Some hair smoothing treatments have been removed from the market in Ireland, Canada, and Australia... as the high level of formaldehyde content is believed to be harmful to human health. Estetica reports.

ormaldehyde in smoothing treatments is at the top of everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s list. In many countries widespread tests are being conducted following the withdrawal from the market - voluntary or imposed - of some smoothing products. The ingredient suspected of being harmful is formaldehyde, which is apparently present in levels much higher than what would be legally allowed in many countries. Formaldehyde is a gas. In addition to being present along heavily traffickedroadways, in homes and offices, in food, furniture, packaging, books and magazines, it was widely used up until the 1980s in cosmetics as a preservative. European directives and some states in the USA oblige certain hair products to limit formaldehyde content to 0.2%. The question is: is this limit always respected? We are not jumping to any conclusions, but Estetica could not ignore this issue, and so will review progressive coverage of the situation worldwide over recent months to shed light on the situation, as well as offer companies (whether multi-national or Italian), associations, and distributors the opportunity to express their point of view and concerns.

by Marie Scarano

For the chronicle The alarm was signaled in the month of August when some distributors called for the voluntary recall of hair 126â?&#x2DC; E S T E T I C A

I N V E S T I G A T I O N

Post-market surveillance is no guarantee of safety

products with high concentrations of free formaldehyde (1.7%) from the Irish market. This alarm was spread via the Rapid alert system for non-food consumer products (RAPEX) at the end of September. John Cook, managing director of Trichovedic Pty, voluntarily withdrew his smoothing product Hydrospa Keratin Smoothing Treatment. In Italy, the Ministry for Public Health requested the NAS to monitor and confiscate the products indicated in the Irish RAPES. Last October, Health Canada, the Federal Agency that deals in safeguarding consumer health, called for the removal of Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California from the market, as it contained a 12% concentration of formaldehyde. By December, the number of products that overstepped recommended limits had risen to ten. In October, Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-Ore), asked the US Food and Drug Administration and the Federal Trade Commission to investigate two hairsmoothing products shown to contain high levels of formaldehyde, even if labelled “formaldehyde free, questioning if a recall was advisable. OSHA tests on Brazilian Blowout resulted in formaldehyde levels of between 4.85 and 10.6 percent. When another product was tested with four different methods, ratings ranged from 6.3 to 10.6 percent. A sample of Acai smoothing product instead contained an average of 8.5 percent. OSHA requires manufacturers of products used in workplaces and containing more than 0.1 percent formaldehyde to list the chemical and indicate safe work practices on an informative sheet accompanying the product. A few days later, Cadiveu, the Brazil-based hair care company disputed such claims, while their USA distributor stated that it had been assured that the formula did not contain formaldehyde. An independent laboratory hired by Cadiveu backed up this claim. The hair treatment, which had only recently become available in Canada

through hair salons, seemed to have caused reactions in hairdressers and clients, triggering testing by the Ontario-based health department. These tests indicated 12 percent formaldehyde content, compared to the 0.2 percent allowed in cosmetics, although it seemed that the irritant might have become aerosolized due to high heat used during blow drying and flat ironing in the salon. Cosmetologists Chicago seemed to confirm this suspicion and reacted by issuing safety guidelines for professionals and consumers interested in this treatment. CEO Paul Dykstra explained, “We urge salon teams to utilize proper ventilation and to incorporate safety procedures into their daily and weekly schedules, especially when it comes to chemical services.” Some critics instead claim that testing methods are often inaccurate, as formaldehyde is the generic name for a substance containing both methylene glycol and formaldehyde, leading to ambiguous results caused by the confusion of the two elements. In any case, most experts continue to emphasize that low levels of formaldehyde are not dangerous if exposure is limited, although this chemical is much more common than anyone probably suspects. In fact, The US Government Accountability Office recently tested about 180 household items and discovered that about 5.5 percent of them had formaldehyde levels that exceeded EPA standards.

WHAT IS FORMALDEHYDE? Formaldehyde, the aldehyde of formic acid, is a gas with an acrid and irritating odour. It is often used in the preparation of synthetic resins, glues, solvents, preservatives, disinfectants, deodorants, detergents, cosmetics, and fabrics. Since 2004, the International Association for Research on Cancer has classified it as one of the substances considered carcinogenic for man. Cosmetic products may contain up to a maximum concentration of 0.2%, as allowed by European Cosmetic Directive 76/768/CEE.

E S T E T I C A ❘127

In spite of such “reassurance”, currently, California, Europe, Canada and South America all have banned the use of Brazilian Keratin Treatment on salon clients.

Farouk Shami Founder and Chairman of Farouk Systems

“I take my hat off to our neighbors in Canada for being one step ahead of our regulators in quickly banning these dangerous products...” One of the first USA manufacturers to speak out in support of Canadian reports and international response, bringing the controversy to his home turf, was Farouk Shami of Farouk Systems. On December 15 of last year, he sent out a letter to all hair industry professionals to raise awareness concerning this controversy, true to his mission to offer safer alternatives to fellow hairdressers and their clients. The same letter announced efforts to develop a truly 100% safe formaldehyde-free smoothing system. What levels are currently allowed in cosmetic products by USA legislation?

Contrary to popular belief, there are no regulatory standards set by the United States FDA that limit formaldehyde in beauty products. Currently the State of California has set the standard for banning formaldehyde through the California Safe Cosmetics Act. The allowable level of formaldehyde in cosmetics is only 0.2 percent. The occupational air quality levels set by OSHA is 0.75 ppm over an 8 hour period. Is anything happening in the Congress to establish new legal standards for such products?

This past year the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 was introduced to Congress. This bill was designed with the Safety of the American people in mind. Its goal is to give the U.S. Food and Drug Administration authority to ensure that personal care products are safe and free of harmful ingredients. This bill must be reintroduced to Congress. Why are USA regulatory bodies so slow in updating current limits or banning dangerously toxic products?

There is a lack of regulatory oversight, perhaps due to other pressing issues in the government. We will only see an improvement in regulating dangerous cosmetic and personal care products when the FDA implements a mandatory pre-market approval process as opposed to

128❘ E S T E T I C A

post market surveillance. Who knows how long this will take? This is why I took matters into my own hands and developed CHI Enviro American Smoothing System that is 100% formaldehyde free. Hairdressers now can perform revenue boosting smoothing treatments without risking their or their clients’ health. Our mission statement has always been and always will be “Environment, Education and Ethics.” And what is more important, CHI Enviro comes complete with a customer information pamphlet on safety precautions, Home Maintenance tips, and FAQs, so that hair care professionals will be able to better advise and reassure clients.

John Cook Managing Director Trichovedic Pty

“Pay attention to the interaction of other ingredients” Why did you withdraw HydroSpa Keratin Smoothing Treatment from the market although it was said to be formaldehyde free?

After learning that two products had been ordered to withdraw from the Irish market due to illegal levels of formaldehyde, I decided to have our product independently tested for formaldehyde. Test results revealed that our product also contained illegal levels. I immediately and voluntarily withdrew our product from the Australian Market. Could it be that the formaldehyde is the result of the interaction of other ingredients included in the formulation of smoothing products?

According to our Brazilian manufacturer they do not formulate with formaldehyde and its presence in the product is the result of interaction of other ingredients in the formulation. Our consultant Doctor of Toxicology has confirmed that this is quite possible. Could the smoothing products containing formaldehyde in accordance with the limits established by law be dangerous for health?

I do not believe so, as everything I have read indicates that formaldehyde is a potential health hazard when exposure levels are high and over an extended period of time. Legislation in Australia limits formaldehyde in cosmetics to 0.02% and in the air to 2 ppm (parts per million) Short-Term Exposure Level and 1 ppm Time Weighted

I N V E S T I G A T I O N

Average (8 hours). These are extremely low limits. Are you currently working on new products?

We are about to release a new product that has been tested and trace levels of formaldehyde are substantially below the legal limits. The product works very effectively. How much damage have smoothing products with higher concentrations of formaldehyde already caused?

I do not know of any injuries caused by such products in Australia; these types of products are relatively new to Australia so I do not think long-term exposure is an issue.

Sandrine Michard International Communications Director L’Oréal Professional Products Division

“Security and Health a top priority” “Formaldehyde scandal”: what is the Group’s position towards smoothing products that contain formaldehyde and that are imported from other countries, above all from Brazil?

The professional products division of L’Oréal has always put the safety of hairdressing professionals and their clients as a priority. As demonstrated by the technologies used in X-tenso Moisturist by L’Oréal Professionnel or Opti.smooth by Matrix, we are committed to hairstraightening solutions that do not use formalin / formaldehyde as an ingredient. Thus we provide the hairdressing profession with effective, responsible hair-straightening treatments, to ensure optimum results and comfort to professionals and their clients. Is there an alternative to formaldehyde free products?

“Safe” and efficient alternatives do exist on the market: L’Oréal with X-tenso Moisturist (LP) or Opti.smooth (Matrix) can offer alternative products to satisfy customers, so the potential growth of this business will not be compromised. A responsible approach in the choice of your manufacturers for hair straightening treatments is important if you want to have a sustainable business.

Group, we are involved in this matter, and we will review our communication from now on by including a « no formol » seal to reassure hairdressers and their clientele. We will continue to support the below mentioned products and our Research and Development Division always looks for ways to improve existing technologies. How do you act in the world, to inform hairdressers about what is going on?

First of all, we ensure safe products that meet local regulations. It is our duty to inform clients of the general situation: doing business with manufacturers selling non-compliant products would lead to a serious crisis within the profession. What would be the risks?

I only mention a few of them: health problems for hairdressers and their clients, legal proceedings against hair salons for not respecting the regulations related to employee protection, legal proceedings by clients following their smoothing treatment at the hair salon, a trust issue from clients towards their hairdressers… Consumers are afraid that some companies might declare a formaldehyde free product on the packaging, which could instead actually contain formaldehyde. With all the existing controls, would that still be possible?

We are confident that local regulators will take the necessary action in order avoid the presence of noncompliant products on the market. This process has already resulted in product recalls in Canada, Ireland, France. But this is not enough. At the same time, everyone should be careful and ask for a guarantee that the product is formaldehyde free!

Allowable levels of formaldehyde in cosmetics is 0.2%. Some products reach as much as 12%

How can we reassure hairdressers and their clients?

The hairdressers have to assure their salon clients that the products are reliable and meet local regulations. At the same time, they have to ensure the health and safety of all individuals working in their salons. As a

E S T E T I C A ❘129

Redken

rising

The Redken Symposium once again exceeds all expectations: spectacular, inspirational, educational, and downright fun, too! by Marie Scarano

Showtime! The Redken Symposium made the best of all the Mandalay Resort in Las Vegas had to offer, with spectacular multimedia entertainment.

130❘ E S T E T I C A

as Vegas is already fun and exciting, add to this the Redken Symposium, held January 16-18 at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, and you’re sure to go over the top! Nearly 9,000 people came from all corners of the globe to be dazzled by the Grand Opening Show featuring graceful models entangled in huge colorful spider webs and trapped inside mystical bubbles, as if to inspire participants to shake off old routines and break out of the mold. And of course such legends as Rodney Cutler, Jenny Balding, Chirs Baran, Kris Sorbie, and Sam Villa worked their quasirock star charisma over the crowd. Symposium buzz words are education and inspiration, and performing Redken artists did just that with classes and performances featuring a team of international artists. Highlights included a Countertrend class with Carmody Homan, Brent Borreson, Justin Isaac, and Leah Freeman, who inspired hairdressers to dare. Chris Baran, Chris Moody, Francesco Ferri, and Sam Correa demonstrated how to push creative inspiration to the breaking point in the Creative Design Surge class, while Colorists Dhaniel Doud, Julie Hoffman, George Garcia, and Tisha Hall demonstrated how to increase both creativity and profits. On a business edge, Michael Cole revealed his secret to moving from financial recession to wealthy

expression with cutting-edge management techniques. Other hands-on highlights were in The Break Room, a coffee lounge where attendees discovered Redken’s exclusive digital resources, won prizes, and watched videos with new mobile phone apps. And what hairdressing event would be complete without a product launch and an awards ceremony. So Redken hosted the Press Event for Intra Force, the latest breakthrough to fight thinning hair, as well as the official induction of Charles David Salon & Spa into the Hall of Fame, Thomas Scott Salon as Salon of the Year, Invidia Salon & Spa for the Largest Percentage Gain, Randoph’s Salon for Education Excellence, and Bio Salon as the Rising Star. On a final note, the postSymposium Bash painted the town “Red-ken”to a soundtrack by Train! Watch the video on your mobile With the QR code you can see the video of the show Instructions on page 145

ESTETICAEVENT! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ w e esteticatv

E V E N T S

Creativity is the buzz word for the Redken Symposium, brimming with color, suggestive lighting, sets, and cutting-edge multimedia devices, as well as good old-fashioned talent - which never goes out of style! Clockwise from top left: Kris Sorbie for the Grand Opening; IWOR Model; Chris Baran backstage; Grand Opening spider web; Grand Opening bubbles; Carmody Hamon, Sam Villa, and Kris Sorbie on stage.

Inspiring stylists to break out of molds and shake-off routine

E V E N T S

Matrix Imagination 2011 Spread the Love Students get a colorful send-off.

Imagine all you can be. Imagine all you can do.

More than 1,600 meet in Palm Springs to imagine potential, inspiration, conviction and love in unison...that’s some pretty powerful stuff!

atrix VP and General Manager Colin Walsh welcomed more than 1600 hairstylists to Matrix Imagination 2011 in Palm Springs for three days bursting with creativity, connection and change, inspiring hairstylists to build business and professionalism with passion and skills. Matrix Artistic Directors Chrystofer Benson, Ammon Carver, Nicholas French, Patrick McIvor, Daniel Roldan, Brian and Sandra Smith and Nick Stenson wowed crowds by bringing their 2010 NAHA creations to life on stage before flanking other Matrix Education Team members in training sessions on cutting and coloring techniques and demos of new products like Design Pulse, Biolage Hydrathérapie and Dream. Age. Another highlight was the launch of the Matrix online community at www.mymatrixfamily.com. Matrix’s Maria Bowman and Fallon Farraone gave eager crowds a tour of the site. Six Matrix Spread

the Love students will find their virtual home on this site while traveling throughout the USA. So keep an eye out for Courtney Guess, Ashley Hanson, Kayla McCormack, Jo Pickering, Sam Ritter and LaKeisha Michelle when they drop in near you! Finally, Matrix Marketing Director Jennifer Rosado announced Chairs of Change, a sharing and inspiring intiative that encourages hairstylists to make the world a better place, one step at a time. Almost more important than the word “Imagine” is the word “can” – because Matrix and Imagination attendees are now truly inspired to make their dreams come true.

E S T E T I C A ❘133

E V E N T S

ABS

highlights The salon industry is lining up to see what’s new, what’s important and what’s ahead in beauty at America’s Beauty Show.

merica’s Beauty Show, says Cosmetologists Chicago President Frank Gironda, “is the event that the leaders in our area grew up on. It’s the show that helped build our careers and our businesses. For 86 years, America’s Beauty Show has been The Midwest Beauty Show and we fully intend to continue the tradition for many, many years. We owe that to the future of our salons.” And now, Cosmetologists Chicago®, the organization of salon owners, professionals and students that owns and produces America’s Beauty Show, is pleased to announce the highlights of ABS 2011, topped off by an exclusive blockbuster event: the Red Carpet Premiere of the acclaimed documentary that gives hope and inspiration to beauty professionals the world over - VIDAL SASSOON: THE MOVIE! Plus, there will also be a special appearance by Vidal Sassoon himself and the chance

to be first to own the DVD. Then, on the runway, talent, creativity, and inspiration will abound from industry icons including shows by Vivienne Mackinder, Gina Khan and Jo Blackwell-Preston for Intercoiffure; Anthony Mascolo for TIGI; Nick Arrojo for ARROJO and Wella; Mark Hayes & The Sassoon Academy Team; Zak Mascolo for Toni&Guy and FashionFusion with Jan Arnold of CND. The business of beauty will be explored at the ABS Salon Owner Forum co-presented by Cosmetologists Chicago and P&G Salon Professional. And as always, beauty will be delivered by hundreds of manufacturers and distributors offering the newest products, tools and equipment for hair, skin and nail care to make a salon business successful. Visit: www.AmericasBeautyShow.com for more information and to register.

The entire hairdressing industry is looking forward to the premiere of the ﬁlm on Vidal Sassoon, an industry icon.

What better way to spark inspiration? Three photos right: Sebastian Professional, Farouk Systems, Vivienne Mackinder.

E S T E T I C A ❘135

Dubai, May 24-26

Orlando, June 4, 5 & 6

ISSE Long Beach 2011

Beautyworld Middle East

About 40,000 beauty professionals from all segments of the industry thronged to ISSE Long Beach 2011, confirming its position as the West Coast’s largest industry event, featuring the latest products, services and trends as well as more than 250 exciting educational opportunities, mostly focused on color trends and tips for winning the NAHA. Many industry VIPs graced the stages, like Beth Minardi, Michael O’Rourke, Martin Parsons, and Charlie Price. Even Tabatha Coffey was on hand to sign copies of her new book. ISSE Long Beach 2012 is already set to be held at the Long Beach Convention Center January 28 – 30, with even more to offer, but in the meantime, don’t miss ISSE Midwest in Rosemont from 26-28 March! For more information on both shows, please visit

The Middle East market is one of the largest and most profitable in the world, with an annual growth rate of 12%. And Beautyworld Middle East, the largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and well-being in the Middle East, offers the ultimate opportunity to tap into this market through a wide variety of show divisions, ranging from Hair to Tanning to Salon and Spa Outfitting and everything in between. The Dubai International Convention is expected to welcome more than 16,000 visitors from about 100 countries, representing an profitable exchange of ideas and business opportunities. Show highlights include the Walk of Beauty, Nail It!, the Fragrance Station and much more. Small wonder visitor satisfaction levels were at an all-time high and exhibitor satisfaction levels increased to 83%. For more info, visit: www.beautyworldme.com

Premiere Orlando International Beauty Event

www.probeauty.org/isse

Long Beach, January 29-31

REPORT

E X P O & A G E N D A

This year, the first weekend in June will mark the opening of the Premiere Orlando, the only all-inclusive event to offer industry professionals and students educational opportunities for the latest trends and techniques in hair care, styling, and nails. Focus on the Main Stage will be on in-depth color training in Hair Color Today -and the most complete and advanced nail education offerings anywhere. And the Premiere DAYSPA Conference also offers hands-on activities in make-up, skin care, massages, and much more on all levels, from basic to advanced. This is one event capable of meeting all your education and shopping needs for 2011 in one stop. So mark your calendars and be sure to bring everyone along to update skills and learn about cutting edge products that are guaranteed to help your business grow. With over 385 education sessions there is something for everyone! You won’t want to miss it. www.premiereorlandoshow.biz

do not forget

MONTHbyMONTH

March 18-21

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Bologna (Italy) www.cosmoprof.com

23-24

Haute Coiffure Française Beijing (China) www.haute-coiffure.com

26-28

ISSE Midwest Rosemont (USA) www.probeauty.org/issemw/

12-14 March

America’s Beauty Show

April

McCormick Place , Chicago, IL

2-5

America’s Beauty Show 401 N. Michigan Ave. Suite 2200 Chicago, IL 60611, USA Ph. +1 3123216809 Fax +1 3126440575 www.americasbeautyshow.com

Hair Brasil São Paulo (Brasil) www.hairbrasil.com

17-18

Intercoiffure Spring Symposium Miami Beach (USA)

4-6 June

Premiere Orlando Orlando (USA) Orange County Convention Center, Orlando, FL, USA Premiere Show Group 1049 Willa Springs Drive, Suite 1001 Winter Springs, FL, 32708, USA Ph. +1 800.335.7469 Fax +1 407.265.3134 www.premiereorlandoshow.biz

www.intercoiffure.us

May 9

Revlon Professional Style Masters Show Amsterdam (The Netherlands) www.stylemasters.com

14-16

Cosmosalón Santiago de Chile (Chile) www.cosmosalon.cl

15-16

AROUNDtheWORLD 19-21 March

Top Hair International Düsseldorf Trade Fair Centre Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Düsseldorf Stockumer Kirchstrasse 61, Messeplatz (Germany) D-40474 Düsseldorf, Germany Ph. +49 0211 456001 Fax +49 0211 4560668 www.top-hair-international.com

16-18 May

Beautyworld Japan Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan Mesago Messe Frankfurt Corporation Tokyo Shosankan 7F, 1-3-2 Iidabashi (Japan) Chiyoda-ku, 1020072,Tokyo, Japan Ph. +81-3-3262-8453 Fax +81-3-3262-8442 www.beautyworldjapan.com

International Beauty & Barber Show Miami (USA) www.ibeautyshowmiami.com

18-19

Luxe Pack New York New York (USA) www.luxepacknewyork.com

24-26

Beautyworld Middle East Dubai (UAE) www.beautyworldme.com

June 18-20

Haircolor USA Las Vegas (USA) www.haircolorusaevent.com

18-20

IBS Las Vegas Las Vegas (USA) www.ibslasvegas.com

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Sexy Hair sales and kudoz In the hair industry, sales and education go hand in hand. So Sexy Hair decided pay homage to its educational superstars in a wide variety of categories during its 2011 International Sales Conference on January 29. “Stylists are creative, artistic and passionate people by nature so you need educators who not only command these qualities but can motivate and bring out the best in others,” said Marlene Amezcua, Director of Education and Shows. “These talented and skilled individuals are the cornerstone of our top-notch educational program and we are honored they have chosen to work with us.” In the photo, Lonn Bogart, Nicole Nixon, Ian Browning, and Josh Perez accept their award with heartfelt appreciation.

iconic stylists+L’Oréal Professionnel Tim Hartley, Vivienne Mackinder, Oscar Blandi, Edward Tricomi, Eva Scrivo and Roy Teeluck have all chosen to partner with L’Oréal Professionnel by collaborating in the Every Six Weeks program being offered only in 2011. Just as clients come into the salon to get their haircut every six weeks, the Soho Academy will be bringing stylists the best in design through the Every Six Weeks program. “We are so proud to be able to offer hairdressers the very best in education and we have the opportunity to step it up even further through this new series,” says Kate Oechsle, Manager, L’Oréal Professionnel, Education. There will be a variety of topics, including customizing haircuts with razor and scissors, dry cutting, and all aspects of design, editorial and not. To sign-up for classes of the Every Six Weeks program at the L’Oréal Professionnel Soho Academy, please email lpsohoacademy@us.loreal.com or call 866.sohonyc.

Estetica’s Roberto Pissimiglia: Alternative Hair Show Patron Estetica Network’s very own editor, Roberto Pissimiglia, received the prestigious international award - the Worldwide Media Patron of AHS - directly from Tony Rizzo. AHS is known for organising high-profile events in London and worldwide to raise funds for research on leukemia, lymphoma, and other forms of blood cancer. Over the years this initiative has raised over 7.5 million British pounds, with the support of sponsors like TIGI, Wella Professionals, Schwarzkopf Professional, Denman, Aston & Fincher, Affinage. The next appointments are set for Moscow (28 September 2011) and London (16 October 2011). www.alternativehair.org

PBA’s 2011 Awards Every year, the entire hairdressing industry comes together to celebrate the most prestigious photographic competition - the North American Hairstyling Awards, under the auspices of the PBA Beauty Week and hosted by Cosmoprof North America. What better moment to pay homage to two professionals who have made significant contributions to the industry? This year, Stan Klet Sr. (in photo), founder of East Coast Salon Services will be inducted into the NAHA Hall of Leaders for his entrepreneurial and philanthropic achievements. And not only, Klet’s generosity with charities, employees, and family and friend has made him a role model for both emerging and established beauty professionals. Then, internationally renowned salon owner, businessman and educator Michael O’Rourke will be awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award for his innovative name brand line of products and his Structure in Motion cutting style. But O’Rourke is not all business, as he also opened the Institute of Courage, LLC with the intention of educating and giving back to the international community of hair stylists. Don’t miss this year’s Beauty Week to be held at the Mandalay Bay resort in Las Vegas from July 30 – August 2, 2011. For more information: www.probeauty.org/naha

E S T E T I C A ❘139

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P&G’s Student Stylist Competition at ABS 2011 Fabio Sementilli, Creative Director for P&G Salon Professional, is excited about the student competition planned to take place at ABS 2011 in Chicago in March. “Today, I’m the Creative Director of P&G salon professional working shoulder to shoulder with the coolest and biggest stars in our industry, but none of this would have been possible if I didn’t take that chance to show my skills in competition. Go ahead and make your mark!” And what better place to make a mark than the ABS, the leading professional hairdressing event attended by professional hairdressers from all corners of the United States. The winner from each category will be awarded a $1,000 cash prize, a PGSP Stylist Kit and their choice of an in-school education course taught by a PGSP top educator. Good luck to all participants!

CHI Enviro launch at ISSE ISSE, the International Salon and Spa Expo held from 29-31 Jan 2011 at the Long Beach Convention Centre in California, was the perfect venue for the launching of Farouk Systems timely response to widespread concerns about hazardous levels of formaldehyde in keratin hair smoothing treatments. Always on the cutting-edge of healthier hair care products, CHI Enviro American Smoothing System, starts with an in-salon treatment based on amino acids, proteins, silk and pearl molecules, making it much safer for both salon professionals and clients, especially as there is no bond breaking involved, just rearranging. The product is also specially formulated for a variety of hair types: Virgin/ Resistant, Colored/Chemically Treated, and Highlighted/ Porous/Fine. Clients can then follow up with the CHI Enviro Home Care Maintenance Products, which help to prolong results. CHI Enviro will be available in salons as of March 2011.

Kris Sorbie’s MembersOnly Education Platform On-line education is where it’s at, and so it only seems natural for Kris Sorbie to be there as well with her MembersOnly, a digital education program providing stylists around the world with inspirational images, tips and techniques. “Stylists are always looking for easy access to information to help them stay on-trend all year long,” states Kris Sorbie, Creator of MembersOnly. “MembersOnly helps stylists expand their brand and provide clients with exceptional service and bespoke, tailored looks. In the end, each stylist will be able to earn a better living and live a better life.” The MembersOnly program allows stylists to tap into the latest in business, color, and styling, including weekly inspirational images and monthly step-by-steps. Always attentive to professional needs, an optimized version of MembersOnly is now being developed for your iPhone to offer easier access while working in your salon. Kris is currently Redken 5th Avenue’s Education Artistic Director and even boasts an educational DVD series.

Style Masters International Creativity Contest This year, Revlon Professionals has launched the Style Masters Project international creativity contest to find talented hairstylists who embody the same values Revlon supports. Entry requirements can be found on the contest’s site, www.stylemasters.com, and has received entries from at least 14 different countries, promising a truly exciting and international competition. The selection and nomination of each Country Winner will take place on March 15th and the 7 Worldwide Finalists will be reported on March 31st. The next STYLE MASTER artist will be officially announced at the Style Masters International Event in Amsterdam, on May 9th, 2011, where exclusive trophies will be presented to all country winners as well. Don’t miss out on the excitement!. E S T E T I C A ❘141

4 5

n Sexy hair adds a glossy top coat

o Don’t worry, be curly

Is your hair tired, stressed and over-treated? The latest addition to the Healthy Sexy Hair Reinvent Color Care line is designed to revitalize hair color by adding glossy sheen to dry, damaged hair, making it silkier and strengthening it from the inside out. Indeed, Sexy Hair’s Top Coat was developed with an anti-oxidant and botanical formula that includes bamboo and coconut extracts, açai berry, rice bran oil and passion fruit oil, each of which plays a specific role in protecting, preserving, and brightening hair color, while reducing fading and boosting shine. In-salon treatments are intensive, but clients can also use the product at home.

The latest trends dictate waves and curls galore, all kinds and shapes, whether long or short, loose or ringlets. And now Moroccanoil® has formulated a new Curl Control Cream that also detangles and conditions, while leaving hair naturally p CHI is thinking pink smooth, soft, and shiny March marks the release of a CHI Limited Edition Pink without compromising on Stardust Pro Drier and Hairstyling Iron from Farouk control. This new product Systems. With March winds and April showers in the air, offers excellent hold this dynamic duo is perfect for foiling the frizzies while and volume, in addition brightening up your décor with these spiffy pink and black to humidity resistance to styling tools. The dryer comes with three nozzle attacheliminate those annoying ments and both the dryer and the hairstyling Iron boast frizzies. Finally here is a CHI 44 Ceramic technology, making it easier to bend, flip, one-stop styling product and curl to keep up with the latest trends. The tools come that does double-duty as with a complimentary 6-oz CHI Silk Infusion and a 8.5-oz a leave-in conditioner and CHI 44 Iron Guard Thermal Protectant that will come in styling gel or mouse. handy when using the iron to create spring coifs. Moroccanoil® suggest you try this product with clients q More creative color options who come in for a cut Following the groundbreaking launch of INOA by L’Oréal and/or color treatment and Professionnel with its ammonia-free formula and ODS tech- are on tight schedule. nology, this March will mark the launch of a more complete range of spectacular colors while the new 10 Volume Rich Developer will inspire colorists to unleash their creativity by opening new doors, from toning to lowlighting, from boosting faded color to changing color either boldly or subtly. As always, INOA is the perfect product for color correction, adding shine and silky smoothness for the softest hair ever.

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Curls are bouncy and flouncy, elegant and sexy, and oh-so-in, so why not try? Especially since Aveda has developed its Be Curly™ Style-Prep to moisturize and seal the cuticle, defining curls and doing away with frizz caused by humidity. Hydrolyzed wheat protein and organic aloe work together to enhance curls and waves, while organic babassu oil, baobab seed oil, and macadamia nut oil seal and moisturise hair. To complete this sensual experience, the fragrances of organic lime, lemon, bergamot and orange and other essential oils will refresh your spirit.

r Getting curls under control

P R O D U C T S

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s Designer scissor for IT&LY

t Hairspray better than ever

It would only seem logical that IT&LY HAIRFASHION should settle for nothing less than top Italian style. So now two leading designers – Pininfarina, designer of Ferrari, Maserati, and other iconic automobiles, and LEADER-CAM, an Italian manufacturer of exclusive handmade shears, have joined forces to create an exclusive handmade scissor for professional salons: the First Pininfarina Designed Haircutting Scissor. Measuring just 5 ½ inches, but made of the finest alloy known to man, the cost of each shear is estimated at $850.00 US Dollars, which might seem a little steep. But given the importance of a hair stylist’s tools, such precisely engineered scissors are sure to give you a “cutting edge”. These supershears will be distributed through the IT&LY HAIRFASHION Advanced Education Hairstyling Academies in Milan, Italy and Pittsburgh, PA (www.italyhairfashion.com)

Redken has always been on the forefront of bridging the gap between runways and reality, and now all types of hair for any feminine profile can stay in place, especially since the arrival of new 12 Versatile Working Spray and Pure Force 16 Non-aerosol Fixing spray. Not only do they keep your coif looking fresh all day, they also feature formulas that protect hair and prevent color fade. All Redken hairsprays offer 24-hour humidity resistance and 8-hour control for girls on the go. More news? New & Improved Forceful 23 now has a fresh new scent! Can it get any better? Yep! Product Knowledge videos are always FREE so stylists can learn about the Hairspray Renovation at their convenience from any computer. Click. Watch. Learn. 24/7 RedkenEducationOnDemand.com

v PM dresses esses tools in nature

F more than 30 years, For Paul Mitchell has been a champion of an ecological approach to haircare and supported environmental initiatives worldwide. Now PM is introducing the Limited Edition Nature Express Ion Dry® and Express Ion Smooth®, to reduce styling time and guarantee healthy hair while offering the perfect accessory for your “green” salon with its natural bamboo u Pravana’s Nutri-Balance Supplements pattern. The Limited Edition It is a long-standing belief that shiny hair, radiant skin Nature Inspired and Express and strong nails are indicators of overall health. And now Ion Smooth even come we know that proper nutrition plays an important role with an accessory, a Paul in feeling good inside and looking good outside. So now Mitchell Bamboo Round® Pravana is now venturing into this field with a new Brush. In addition to superproduct called Biojen 0 Nutri-Balance Dietary Supplements, charged negative ions to containing a special blend of vitamins, minerals, and break up water molecules amino acids to reinforce and beautify hair, skin, and nails and get them to penetrate from the inside out. Pravana President and CEO Steve the hair shaft, the Express Goddard feels Biojen 9 Nutri-Balance is a natural segue Ion Dry also offers powerful for Pravana, “We’ve built our reputation producing and airflow and lightweight comcreating highly effective and superior hair care products fort, while the Ion Smooth to treat and maintain beautiful, healthy hair. Now with heats quickly and offers Nutri-Balance, we’re promoting good health and beauty negative ion and far infrared at its source, the cellular level – where robust vitamin technology. This double formulations are most effective.” offer will be available exclusively in salons during March and April 2011, so don’t miss out! E S T E T I C A ❘143

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