Carnival season in Louisiana

By Elaine Warner

You may not have noticed but we’re in Carnival season – the pre-Lenten celebration that begins with Twelfth Night and ends on Mardi Gras (March 1). For family-friendly festivities, I recommend Shreveport or Lake Charles, La.

While you may be able to catch a parade any weekend, the closer to Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday, the day preceding Ash Wednesday), the wider the choices for activities.

The major events are produced by krewes – private groups who sponsor balls, parades or both. The most public of the celebrations are the parades. Floats are massive, elaborate and carry celebrants who throw treats – most often beads – to crowds which line the parade routes.

Parades scheduled for Shreveport include the February 13 Parade of Barkus and Meoux at the Louisiana State Fairgrounds. There is a nominal charge -- $1 – to attend the event which includes the pet parade, decorated golf carts and batterypowered, kiddy vehicles. Lots of food trucks add to the fun.

The Krewe of Centaur Parade marches out on Saturday, February 19, and the Krewe of Gemini Parade is scheduled for the next Saturday, the 26th. Veteran parade watchers pick spots along the routes early – bringing folding chairs or finding spots in parking lots so they can back up their trucks and set up in the truck bed. Most people spend the parade standing, with arms up, calling, “Throw me something, mister!”

The goal for many is to collect as many “throws” as possible. I’ve seen little kids so loaded with beads that only their heads and hands stick out. Greedier attendees bring baskets or fish nets for catching the flying beads, Moon Pies, plastic toys, etc.

Lucky people – and I was one – get a bird’s eye view from atop a float. It’s a real dance keeping up with holding handfuls of beads and throwing them. While we had to keep up rapid-fire throwing, I never threw to the basket people – always tried to aim for small children.

On Sunday, February 27, those in the know will head for the Highland neighborhood for the Krewe of Highland Parade. In the past, the most popular throws were foil wrapped hot dogs. I’m not sure they’ll get to throw those this year. This parade is a combination of some of the large floats, marchers,

Lake Charles Gala gives guests a look at the most elaborate of royal regalia.

kids on bikes, and fun home-made creations. Also on the 27th, Marilynn’s Place is party central. Once a filling station, this popular eatery throws a great Mardi party. There’ll be boiled crawfish, red beans, beignets and more – all to the tune of a zydeco band. To prepare properly for the celebrations, I recommend two stops. First is Tubbs Hardware and Cajun Gifts. The Tubbs family was instrumental in bringing the Mardi Gras tradition to Shreveport. So in addition to hardware, a good portion of their stores are dedicated to all things Carnival. You’ll find walls with beads hanging from floor to ceiling. I asked Kenneth Tubbs to estimate the number of bead strings he had. The answer was complicated. There are hundreds of variations on Mardi Gras beads – the regular throws, beads with accessories, pearl beads, krewe beads and so many more. Of the beads I have collected, most are simple throws, but I also have beads with alligators,

Participants spend hours loading beads and other throws on Mardi Gras floats Elaine Warner models a Dennis Beckman creation at The Enchanted Garden

shrimp, fishermen’s boots, even a string with a music box. So Tubbs’ estimate – they have tens of thousands of beads. There are also, tiaras, funny hats, masks, noise makers and all sorts of party accessories.

The second do-not-miss spot is The Enchanted Garden. I do not enjoy shopping. The Enchanted Garden, owned by Deb Cockrell, is the one place that could make me change my mind. It’s full of gorgeous gifts, unique apparel, soaps, lotions, toys and seasonal specialties. Mardi Gras items – you bet!

The masks at The Enchanted Garden are art. Created by Dennis Beckman, these gorgeous, hand-made masks range from small ones (I bought a little, black and silver, music-themed beauty for a very reasonable price) to elaborate, feathered, and jeweled masks with towering head pieces.

Mardi Gras in Lake Charles is much like Shreveport – balls, parades, and lots of beads. To me, the most impressive thing about Mardi Gras there is the Gala. This is an open-to-the-public, inexpensive evening where the royalty from all the krewes parade in their exquisite finery. You won’t see these outfits in the parades – they’re strictly for indoors – the krewe balls and the Gala. The Gala was cancelled this year, but they’re looking forward to returning it next year.

No matter what time of year, visitors can get a big taste of Lake Charles Mardi Gras by visiting the Mardi Gras Museum. In a former school building, fabulous costumes line the main hallway and the classrooms now are filled with exhibits on every aspect of Mardi Gras from costume and float design to the history of King Cakes.

Ah, King Cake, a highlight of the season! The tradition is said to have originated in 12th century France, when, on the Twelfth Night after Christmas (Three Kings Day) this special treat would be served. The base is a raised dough baked in a circle or oval to represent the circuitous path of the Wise Men, filled or unfilled, topped with icing decorated with gold, green and purple sugar.

Tucked into the cake is a tiny baby. The person who gets the piece with the baby is supposed to supply a King Cake the next year.

Tubbs, in Shreveport sells at least 10,000 of their original recipe King Cakes (more moist, more filling than the average cake) each year – and they ship.

I have to put in a plug for my favorite source – Rao’s Bakery in Beaumont, Texas.

They have sent me one for the past several years – complete with beads for decorating and, of course, a baby.

I planned to go Mardi Gras again this year, but I couldn’t imagine social distancing at a parade. Shreveport is an easy day’s drive, and the last weekend is the best, but you might prefer planning for next year. Me, I’m sitting here hoping a King Cake will arrive soon!