Tortillas With Soul

AT SOBRE MASA, THE HOUSEMADE TORTILLAS CONTINUE AN 8,000-YEAR-OLD STORY

Zack and Diana Wangeman, two Oaxaca natives in New York, use heirloom corn from Mexico to make some of the most special tortillas in the country

Crystal Shi

On a good day, the tiny tortillafactorythatanchorsSobre Masa in Brooklyn churns out5,000tortillasinshadesof red,yellow,white,andperhapsblue. The colors that day—and, in turn, thedistinctflavors,aromas,andtextures—depend upon the availability of the heirloom corn purchased from small Mexican farms.

“We’re fourth in line,” said chef Zack Wangeman, noting that the factory’s share comes after the farmers save enough for their families, livestock, and next year’s crop.

Wangeman and his wife Diana, both from Oaxaca, Mexico, opened the all-in-one tortilleria, cafe, taqueria, and bar in October 2021. The tortilleria is the first in the city to use only imported heirloom Mexican corn, sourced through Mexico Citybased purveyor Tamoa.

“We try to showcase the diversity of the corn as much as we can,” Zack said.

There are about 60 heirloom varietals in Mexico, their seeds preserved by small farmers for generations.

“They all have a soul of their own,” he said.

Oaxacan white bolita corn has a “toasted popcorn aroma,” while yellow bolita is “a lot more mushroom-y, a lot sweeter.” Blue bolita makes softer tortillas, while extra-starchy cacahuazintle makes ones softer still.

The corn is nixtamalized—the ancient process of soaking it in an alkaline solution to break it down and make it more nutritious—and milled and kneaded into masa, the thick dough that gets pressed and cooked on a hot comal. The tortillas—sturdy yet supple, fragrant, and flavorful enough to devour plain—are delivered to restau-

A cafe in the front sells Oaxacan coffee, tortillas, and other retail items, while the dining room in the back serves tacos and cocktails highlighting Mexican spirits.

The taco menu—

al pastor, bistec, and cauliflower, with some regional specialties—is intentionally short, to highlight the specialization of Mexican cuisine.

ZACK WANGEMAN

Favorite Taco:

Al pastor

Last Meal:

Tortillas with queso fresco and salsa Morita

Best Advice Received:

“Marry Diana.” (From his mom)

DIANA WANGEMAN

Favorite Taco:

Tacos de bistec, gringas al pastor

Food She Misses Most:

Tlayudas and the flavor of squash blossoms from home

Best Advice Received:

“Hard work will prevail, regardless of the circumstances.”

Zack and Diana Wangeman, both 29, work to champion the richness and diversity of Mexico at Sobre Masa.

rants, sold to customers, or served in tacos.

The seeds of Sobre Masa were sown while Zack was working as a full-time pastry chef in New York. Missing the food from home, he learned to cook Oaxacan dishes, including tortillas made from masa ground in his apartment, for monthly pop-ups in 2018.

His research led him deep into the history of corn, a bedrock of the Mexican diet for at least 8,000 years—now under threat by genetically modified organisms, industrialization, and other factors, in turn threatening the country’s nutrition. When the pandemic hit, Zack returned to Oaxaca and put together a business plan.

Diana grew up in a small farming village where her parents ran a traditional Zapotec restaurant. A medical school graduate, she was taking a break from employment when Zack, a high school friend, came calling.

He was opening a tortilleria in New York, he told her, and jokingly proposed a deal: “You hand-press tortillas, I’ll pay for your flight.”

A visit in December 2020 eventually led to a permanent stay— and a marriage.

With their heirloom corn tortillas, Zack and Diana join a growing movement of chefs and producers helping this ancient ingredient make a comeback. They’re happy to see more interest and awareness among customers as well.

“People say, ‘What tortillas do you have today?’” Zack said, smiling. “What an amazing question.”