Experiencing Mexico

Colorful façades abound in San Miguel de Allende.

Old Mexico Charm

A sense of history permeates San Miguel de Allende, whose founding dates back to 1542

By Fred J. Eckert

hen most people think of visiting Mexico, they think of beach resorts or archeological ruins. Places such as Acapulco and Cancún or Chichén Itzá and Palenque.

Interesting, pleasant places to be—all of them nice to visit.

But if you want to experience the real Mexico, you’ll find what you’re searching for in one of the Spanish colonial towns or cities that has retained the flair of Old Mexico. The best one, many agree, is a picturesque small historic colonial town that sits just about in the middle of the country in the Bajío mountains of the state of Guanajuato.

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, doesn’t merely look historic—it’s genuinely historic. Founded in 1542, it came to be known as San Miguel after Franciscan monk Fray Juan de San Miguel, who founded it and who was beloved for his work among Native Americans in the area.

The town’s distinctive and highly colorful facades look today as they did at their finest moments, unblemished with any intrusions of a more contemporary appearance. This is because the government of Mexico made it a national monument in 1926, thus placing heavy restrictions on altering the town’s historic central district. No new building and no renovation have been—or will be—allowed unless it retains the city’s historic colonial characteristics.

Walk about the historic central district of this town and you’ll see that it’s all of the little things that make such a big difference. Or, more accurately, it’s the lack of all of those little things that give it the charm of Old Mexico. MEXICO

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE MEXICO CITY

San Miguel de

Allende is located about 170 miles northwest of Mexico City.

You won’t see a neon sign—not one. Nor any billboards. Nor any traffic lights. Nor even so small a sign of our more modern days as a stop sign.

What you take in instead is true charm—it’s there in abundance. The “greater” San Miguel de Allende town area may have a population of about 80,000, but its central district truly does have the look and feel of a very small town in Old Mexico.

Because it’s located in the middle of sunny Mexico and because it sits at an altitude of 6,400 feet above sea level, the town enjoys a temperate climate year-round, which is often and appropriately described as idyllic. It varies little and features low humidity and cool mountain breezes.

Wealthy residents of Mexico City, mainly actors and political figures, have long come to this mountain town to escape the heat and frenzy of the big city. The great climate has also drawn people from much further away. A surprisingly high percentage of its residents—about 15 percent—are U.S. and Canadians who have settled there because of the weather, pleasant pace, and affordable living.

Some of these U.S. and Canadian expats have roots in town that trace back to the days following World War II, when polio scares led many returning GIs to search for healthy spots to live and raise their families, while others came there in the 1950s, drawn by the burgeoning artists’ colonies, including the renowned Instituto Allende.

You’ll find plenty of art galleries, craft stores, and antique shops run by second-generation U.S. and Canadian residents. In one gallery that we visited, the owner hailed from our hometown, Raleigh, North Carolina.

The cobblestoned streets that we walked along each day made us feel as if we were walking through a sort of open-air museum. On each side of the narrow street stood palacios—old mansion type of buildings—mostly from the late 1500s through the 1700s.

Fountains are ubiquitous. Simple ones. Great tiered ones. Standing in the corners of streets and in the centers of parks and recessed into walls. The town has more than 40 public fountains—and far, far more private ones.

On the main square sits one of the most famous churches in Mexico, the late 17th-century La Parroquia, also known as the Parish of San Miguel Arcángel, a landmark with pink-toned Gothic spires that can be seen from most areas in and near town. Its construction was led by a local who taught himself stonemasonry and created the church’s design from studying postcard drawings of some of the great European churches.

And a good way to get a feel of the place, besides walking around a lot—and also a good place to just sit and relax awhile—is the small main plaza. Locals gather here to chat or get a shoeshine or buy small gifts from roaming vendors.

And when in San Miguel de Allende, it’s also a waste to not do some shopping—it’s always a highlight for visitors. Mexicans are known for the fine-quality workmanship of their goods—pottery, ceramics, weavings, wooden toys and carvings, metalwork and jewelry, lacquer work, basketry, textiles, and so forth. You won’t have any difficulty locating enough nice shops—and a bonus is that because it’s located in the very center of the country, San Miguel de Allende is an outlet for artisans from every region of Mexico. 

Fred J. Eckert is a retired U.S. ambassador and former member of Congress.

AT 6,400 FEET

above sea level, the town enjoys an idyllic climate year-round.

If You Go

Getting There:

The nearest airport for San Miguel de Allende is an hour and a half drive away in Leon. Casa de Sierra Nevada makes arrangements to pick up guests there, as well as other airports even further away. Safety: Many of Mexico’s bestknown places are best avoided, but San Miguel de Allende is a much better choice, and it’s a good place to experience Old Mexico.

Accommodations:

A good variety of accommodations are available. Casa de Sierra Nevada is considered the premier choice.