Maui’s Best Views

An aerial view of the road to Hana.

The Road to Hana

With narrow lanes and 600 twists and turns, it is a challenging but deeply rewarding drive

By Tim Johnson

Stretching a total of 64 miles, Hana Highway transports you to another version of Hawaii, a long way from the poolside deck chairs of Kapalua. Along the way, you’ll pass through thick tropical forest, skirting blacksand beaches, seaside cliffs, and waterfalls.

While Hana is worth the drive, the pleasure is in the journey—as you steer down Hawaii Routes 36 and 360, you’ll wind through more than 600 curves and pass over 46 one-lane bridges.

The Beginning

Coming from the hotels of West Maui or Wailea, you’ll approach the beginning of Hana Highway along a four-lane highway, passing the island’s main gateway, the international airport at Kahului. A few miles beyond, the road now narrowed to two lanes, you’ll arrive in Paia—“busy town” in the local language. It’s a former hippie hotspot and home to one of Maui’s best surf breaks, creating massive waves that roll onto the white sand of Paia Bay (feel free to stop—all beaches in Hawaii are public and free to access, if you can find a parking place).

This small village serves some of the island’s best seafood at Mama’s Fish House. A homey place set among swaying palm trees just past the main four corners in town, this restaurant even has its own dock so fishermen can pull right up to the back and unload the day’s freshest catch.

While you’re just beginning your drive, you would be well-justified to tarry in Paia for a while—tuck into some ahi tuna or mahi-mahi with a mai-tai to wash it down, your table facing out to the Pacific and those sultry trade

PAIA

MAUI

HANA

Hana Highway

stretches 64 miles between Paia and Hana.

winds keeping you cool. If you find that you’re done for the day, Mama’s also has a few spacious rooms on-site where you can rest—and wait until morning to face those curves.

Mile Marker 2: Into the Canopy and Twin Falls

Rolling across the lower flanks of the Haleakala Volcano, soon the landscape begins to change dramatically from wide-open vistas to dense, tropical forest. If you’re already ready for a stop, park your car in the lot at Mile Marker 2 and take a hike (and a dip, if you like) in the pools and cascades that form Twin Falls, which run along two forks, the Ho’olawa li’ili’i (little stream) and Ho’olawa nui (big stream), cutting through the jungle and forming perfect tropical swimming holes below clear, clean, tumbling water.

Mile Marker 10: Garden of Eden Arboretum

The Garden of Eden arboretum is an interesting place even for those who don’t love botanical gardens—a lush paradise with more than 700 labeled plant species, many of them were donated by the late George Harrison (the famous one, from The Beatles), who lived nearby and had a green thumb. Walk the 2.5 miles of paths, enjoy the ocean views, and ask the staff for the story behind Alan Bradbury, a musician and arborist— and the passionate creator of the arboretum.

Mile Marker 17: Halfway to Hana

Although it will feel like you’re early into the drive, the halfway point comes quickly—at a classic snack bar called Halfway to Hana. Park and take a pit stop, picking up some of the island’s favorite treats. In addition to the standard fare, such as cheeseburgers and hot dogs, you can top up on shave ice (Hawaii’s version of a snow cone—they have 13 different flavors), as well as the best banana bread you’ll find along the way.

Mile Marker 31: Hana Lava Tube

Once a place of great heat and turmoil, molten lava poured through this underground passage, forming today’s tunnel (the oldest of its kind on the island) and leaving its flow patterns fossilized on the walls. Drive four miles off the main highway (up Ulaino Road), pay a small fee to enter the cavern, descend the steps, and take a self-guided tour into this natural tunnel, which will transport you to the volcanic times in which Maui was born. Bring your own flashlight, and walk around the garden maze afterward.

Mile Marker 32: Wai’anapanapa State Park

At this state park, black sand meets blue water. Walk the dark pebbles on the volcanic beach, visit an ancient temple, spot sea stacks, and look out on the ocean for the natural stone arch. If you brought your bathing suit, this is an excellent time to wade into the Pacific Ocean.

Mile Marker 34: Hana Town

Not so far from the rest of Maui, but a world away from busy, touristy Hawaii, Hana is sleepy, charming, and personal, a place that feels like home on the far side of the island. (Local shops encourage this image, selling T-shirts billing the village as “Far from Waikiki.”) While the Hana Highway can be driven round-trip in a single day, it’s worth staying at least one night there. A number of super-local hotels and cottages offer no-frills accommodation, or you can go luxe at Hyatt’s Hana-Maui Resort, a series of ocean-facing, hillside rooms and residences surrounding a big pool.

Tim Johnson is based in Toronto. He has visited 140 countries across all seven continents.

25

MPH

is the average speed limit, though the highway is only 52 miles long.

If You Go

When to Go:

Hawaii is great year-round.

Getting There:

It takes 2 1/2 hours to drive to Hana, but it’s best to take a full day.

Planning:

Stay aware of weather patterns. You likely won’t be able to stop at every highlight on the road, so plan which stops you want to make in advance. Also, make sure to fill up on gas in Paia—there are no gas stations between there and Hana.

Tours:

If you’d rather not drive, consider tour companies, which offer expert guides. A helicopter tour is also an option.