FINDING ITALY’S REAL ‘BLACK GOLD’: TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA

A far cry from the salad dressing condiment, the real deal is dark, rich, intensely concentrated, and precious—an edible legacy passed down generations

By Kevin Revolinski

If you’re a casual fan of balsamic vinegar, I may have some troubling news for you: Most likely, whatever you’re using isn’t the traditional form. True, traditional balsamic vinegar comes at a dear cost in a 3.3-ounce globelike bottle—a hand grenade of deliciousness.

Much like Champagne, you can’t put “balsamic vinegar of Modena” on vinegar that isn’t produced in its home region. But there are two distinctions for Modena: balsamic vinegar of Modena PGI (protected geographical indication—IGP on an Italian label) and traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena PDO (protected designation of origin—or DOP). The former allows for blending with wine vinegar; the latter is made strictly with grape must (crushed grapes with skins, stems, and all), aged at least 12 years and even judged for quality.

But the tradition is a lot older than these labels—historical records date back to the Romans—and it’s been kept alive by generations of home producers.

On a tour through the Museum of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar in Modena, which is also headquarters to the consortium that judges the DOP vinegar, Director Cristina Sereni showed me a series of five barrels descending in size. This is a “battery,” she told me.

“Tradition says that any time a baby girl is born, we should start a new set.”

The process begins with the fall grape harvest. The must is cooked down, sealed in a large bottle, and cellared until spring.

Barrels of balsamic vinegar age in the attic of the Museum of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.

Made under strict requirements and aged for at least 12 years, pure traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena has a complex flavor and thick, syrupy texture, to be doled out in precious drops.

Need To Know

Buy: Look for “aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena D.O.P.” on the label. Anything aged at least 25 years is also labeled “extravecchio” (extra old).

Enjoy: Try a few drops on Parmigiano Reggiano, risotto, strawberries, chocolate, or ice cream. Never heat it.

Visit: See the Museum of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar’s website for more information.

This liquid is poured into the largest barrel, and the hole in the top is left open or covered with only a cloth to allow evaporation. Thus, natural fermentation begins, and in a few weeks, it’s vinegar.

The following year, a portion of the mother barrel moves to the next smaller barrel, and the new batch is blended into the mother. This process continues annually, and after many years, that small one at the end is eventually producing a small amount of old but blended vinegar.

“When girls grew up and got married, their sets would be part of the dowry. When we start a new set, we are not doing it for ourselves; it’s for future generations,” Sereni said.

The tradition at the commercial level is basically identical to a local maker’s. For the DOP label, everything must be made in

Modena, with only local grapes. And for the pros, everything is controlled, from the vineyard to the bottling phase; producers can’t bottle their own.

“They have to bring it here to the consortium, where five expert master tasters will evaluate the quality,” Sereni said.

For local makers, pride is on the line.

“We have a contest every year, [where] families bring a sample,” Sereni said.

They had 1,636 entries in 2022. The winner received a diploma, a medal, and a spoon of gold.

“But what really matters is, they can say to everyone, ‘My vinegar is better than yours,’” she said.

Portions of this trip were arranged by Emilia-Romagna Tourism. Kevin Revolinski is an avid traveler, craft beer enthusiast, and home-cooking fan.