Delightful Sydney

A bird’s eye view of Sydney.

Water World

Exploring Sydney by ferry reveals iconic sights as well as charming beach towns

By Tim Johnson

The view just kept getting better. Rumbling back from the dock, the austere little boat cut through the calm, gray waters, the seats inside holding a smattering of work-weary commuters, most of them entranced by their phones.

First, the skyline. Above rose the glassy skyscrapers of Australia’s largest city. A little farther from the shore, the next icon came into view: the Sydney Harbor Bridge, its famous steel archway soaring more than 40 stories, its span stretching some 1,650 feet. And finally, the white folds, peaks, and shells of the city’s Opera House—one of the most recognizable places in the world.

It’s a view that’s available to anybody with a couple of bucks in their pocket and the wherewithal to navigate down to Circular Quay.

Sydney is a famously fun city, and with Australia reopening to visitors earlier this year, it’s again possible to explore its wonders. A big place, home to around 5.3 million in the metro area and covering more than 4,700 square miles, it may seem a little intimidating to a first-time visitor.

But as more and more travelers return to the land Down Under, they’ll discover that the best place to start is at the waterline, taking a boat ride around town.

The first thing you notice upon arrival is that there’s water everywhere. Sydney Harbor is absolutely huge. Approaching from the Tasman Sea on a cruise ship (or any other craft), you’ll proceed past the “Heads”—a series of headlands girding the 1.2-mile entrance to the harbor. From there, you can continue to sail for almost 12 miles until you reach the end of it.

Technically a sunken river, Sydney Harbor is surrounded by 150 miles of coastline. It’s jagged, with peninsulas jutting out, along AUSTRALIA

Sydney

Canberra

Sydney’s Kingsford Smith

Airport (SYD) has direct flights to/from San Francisco and Los Angeles.

with coves and inlets, many of them filled with sailboats in marinas. The shores are lined with beaches, green spaces, and many different neighborhoods, their streets climbing up and away from the water.

Much of this aquatic playground is accessible by public ferry. Circular Quay, in the central business district, feels a little like a busy urban train station, except the locomotives and carriages are replaced by boats of varying sizes. Getting aboard is easy—you don’t even need to line up to buy a ticket. Just scan your credit card at the gate on one of the wharves, and a very modest charge will show up on your account in a few days. You’ll never pay more than $10, and for very short voyages, the fare is often free of charge.

One of the best places to go? Manly Beach, which feels like a trip to a charming beach town, is only about 20 minutes from the heart of the city.

Pretty much every ferry passes the Harbor Bridge and the Opera House. The former somehow feels even bigger when you see it in person from below. Nicknamed “the coat hanger” by witty locals, this bridge is an absolutely vital link, carrying trains, cars, bicycles, and pedestrians. Workers toiled for eight years to build it, shaping 53,000 tons of steel and driving 6 million rivets before the bridge opened in 1932. Brave visitors can walk along the top spans on guided tours. It’s worth it to gather your courage: The view from the top is truly unforgettable.

A minute or two later on the voyage, you’ll pass the Opera House. Snap some fantastic photos while passing by. It’s the one place you can be assured that nobody will obstruct your picture, and the place is even more brilliant when you see it rising from the water.

When you alight in Manly, grab an alfresco lunch at The Corso, which connects the ferry wharf with the main beach. A boardwalk originally constructed in 1855, it’s long been the beating heart of town—for both locals and tourists—and home to shops and theaters. Now, it’s a bustling pedestrian mall lined with cafes and restaurants. Linger over a glass of rosé, then walk to the broad strip of sand nearby.

Perhaps a little more tucked away, but definitely worth the trip, Watsons Bay is one of the oldest fishing villages in Australia. Now, it’s a small, mostly residential community with bright cottages, a palm-lined shore, and clear, aquamarine water that feels positively tropical. About 25 minutes from Circular Quay, here you can see all the way back to the central business district. The view of those distant skyscrapers feels a little surreal, with sailboats in the foreground and waves lapping at your feet. Less than a 10-minute walk through a pleasant neighborhood will take you to Camp Cove, a picture-perfect beach that feels like a secret.

But you really don’t need to go anywhere at all. Under those uncertain skies, as I passed the Opera House, I was only headed to Neutral Bay, a short round trip, less than half an hour in total. It was all about the ride—just getting out onto the water. A free ride, as it turned out, and a spectacular one, at that. 

Tim Johnson is based in Toronto. He has visited 140 countries across all seven continents.

5.3

MILLION

people live in the Sydney metro area

If You Go

Getting Around:

From Circular Quay, trams roll out to other parts of the city, and Sydney also has a fast, clean, efficient metro system. Stay: The Langham Sydney is superposh but still friendly. The service is impeccable, with staff providing a warm, personal welcome and ensuring that both guests’ stay and their time in the city are enjoyable. Take Note: While most ferries are frequent, especially at peak hours, it’s best to double-check the return schedule upon disembarking at your destination.