The Other Rome

Hidden Roman Gems

By Tim Johnson

Once, this city was the capital of the greatest empire the world has ever known. The Romans built aqueducts to channel water for public baths, latrines, and fountains, plus an extensive network of more than 250,000 miles of highways radiating out from the capital.

The Italian capital still maintains many monuments to those glory days. The Colosseum remains the largest amphitheater on earth. The ruins of the Roman Forum, once the city’s bustling center of trade and commerce, retains many of its pillars and archways. Later additions also delight, such as Michelangelo’s masterpiece on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel; the soaring dome of St. Peter’s Basilica; and Trevi Fountain, where visitors gather to toss a coin that promises their return.

Collectively, these form the heart and soul of any tourist visit to Rome. But once you tire of the crowds and long lines, what’s next? On several visits here, I’ve made a few discoveries.

Try Trastevere

Its name meaning “beyond the Tiber,” this increasingly trendy neighborhood is separated from the rest of Rome by the Tiber River.

Multicultural and populated by the working class for most of its history, its tiny, winding cobblestone lanes once marked this district’s poverty, as they were too narrow for fancy carriages. They’re now lined with cool little boutiques, the tables out front arrayed with niche items, such as funny hats, cool trinkets, and hand-woven blankets. Ivy climbs the walls while sidewalk trattorias serve up steaming pasta.

Along the way, pop into the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, a church that dates back to the fourth century, to enjoy the Pietro Cavallini mosaics. Two other sites—the Renaissance-era Villa Farnesina and the baroque Galleria Corsini—sit across from one another. Both house masterpieces—the former, frescoes by Raphael, and the latter, works by Titian and Caravaggio.

Take your pick of many patio restaurants serving up cool spritzes. A late afternoon break with this distinctive drink that combines Aperol, Prosecco, club soda, and an orange slice is a favorite late afternoon activity here.

Go to the Gardens

While the city isn’t known for its green spaces, the Botanical Garden of Rome is just a short walk away. Rome is hectic and heated. These gardens are the perfect escape. On a recent visit, on a particularly steamy day, I was happy to find a bench and a little refreshment in the shade. Rome has roughly 900

churches

and 700 private chapels.

ROME

Rome is built

on the River Tiber and surrounded by seven hills.

Only 10 percent of ancient Rome

has been excavated.

Every year, tourists toss roughly

$1.7 million in coins into Trevi Fountain.

Outdoor dining options abound, for both formal meals and the popular late-afternoon aperitivo.

An urban enclave covering about 30 acres, the garden’s lands once belonged to a 17th-century queen of Sweden. Explore the Japanese garden, Mediterranean garden, rose garden, and one of the richest collections of bamboo in Europe. Ducking into the greenhouses is also worthwhile. One contains more than 400 species of orchid; plus, there are bubbling fountains, meandering pathways, and a tent that flutters with butterflies.

After my afternoon garden reverie, I walked among subterranean bones at the catacombs, popped into shops along the bustling Via del Corso, and enjoyed sweeping views from the rambling hilltop park around Villa Borghese. Along the way, I drank from the “nasoni”—literally, “big nose”—2,500 water fountains that channel cold water pouring from a curved metal spout protruding from the front.

Treat Yourself at Trattoria della Stampa

After days of fast meals on the fly, it was time for a really excellent sit-down meal. I drilled down, researching little hole-in-the-wall spots within walking distance of my hotel.

One stood out: Trattoria della Stampa, located on a back lane. As I approached, I noticed that the restaurateurs had displayed the fresh vegetables and herbs they planned to use for that night’s dinner. A table presented boxes of spring onions, basil, cucumbers, and of course, tomatoes.

Under a curved roof, chef Roberto Cavalli sliced meat and set tiramisu at a little prep station right in the middle of the restaurant. I dove into the food, a caprese salad with the freshest, creamiest buffalo mozzarella I’ve ever tasted, followed by simple, beautiful pastas, including cacio e pepe, carbonara, and amatriciana, three of Rome’s signature dishes.

Then, a chat with the chef was in order. He joined me out in the lane. Turns out, he’s a former professional soccer player who turned to the kitchen after retiring, earning a Michelin star along the way.

“I have two passions: football and food,” he told me. “I grew up in the kitchens of my grandmother and my mother.”

While he was answering my questions, a Ferrari roared by, squeezing through the small passage at a far too fast pace, almost clipping our shins. We both laughed heartily at the near-miss, slapped each other’s backs, and then slipped back into the restaurant, the warmth and lovely aromas of the main course still lingering, dessert almost on the way.

If You Go

Fly:

Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino International Airport is Italy’s busiest hub.

Getting Around:

While individual neighborhoods are easily explored on foot, hopping across the city is best done on the metro system. Buses are a good option.

Stay:

Hotel degli Artisti sits within walking distance of the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Villa Borghese, and a metro station.

Take Note:

Trastevere’s relative remoteness means there are no nearby metro lines, and bus stops can be a few blocks’ walk.