MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
FABRIC INFO DESCRIPTION: BERMUDA SHORT CONTENT: 100% COTTON TWILL FINISH: BRUSHED MILL: FIBER
WASH INFO WASH: GARMENT WASH REFERENCE: *6789
FIT REFERENCE
COLORWAYS
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
NOTES
Cover Page
1 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
1/16” Edge Stitch WB Back
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
3 Total Belt Loops
See Attached Sketch for WB, Front Pkt and Belt Loop Front Fly Zipper Closure
See Attached Sketch for Back Flap Details
See Attached Sketch for Front Fly
1 1/2” Invisible Stich Hem
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Detail
2 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
FRONT FLY DETAIL
RIGHT FRONT 3” GAP
3” GAP
1 3/8” WIDTH
6” OPENING
1/16” SNTS
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
3 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
FRONT POCKET DETAIL
2” WB Height
1/4” BL Width
2 1/2” BL Height
1/8” DNTS
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
4 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
BACK FLAP DETAIL
2” WB Height
8 3/4” Width 5 1/2” Width
1 1/4” Height
1/4” SNTS 1 3/4” Height
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
5 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
Fabric Details
Colorways
Fabric
PO#
Supplier
Content
Location/Placement
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
COTTON TWILL
1335705
FLEYSHMANS
100% COTTON
ENTIRE GARMENT EXCEPT WHERE NOTED
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
INTERFACING
2550690
FLEYSHMANS
100% COTTON
WAISTBAND FACINGS
NATURAL
NATURAL
NATURAL
POCKET LINING
4330755
FLEYSHMANS
100% COTTON PLAIN WEAVE
INNER POCKET
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
Supplier
SIZE/ QTY
Trim Details Trim #
Description
Location/Placement
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
BH-840
4 HOLE BUTTON
FLEYSHMANS
1/2” / 4
CF WAISTBAND & BACK FLAP
WHITE
KHAKI
246 BROWN
BH-837
2 HOLE BUTTON
FLEYSHMANS
1/2” / 1
CF INNER WAISTBAND
CLEAR
CLEAR
CLEAR
ZP-461
CF ZIPPER
YKK
#5SG
CF ZIPPER
101 WHITE
342 GREEN TAPE
245 BROWN TAPE
DA1LHD
ZIPPER SLIDER
YKK
#5
CF ZIPPER
COIL
COIL
COIL
BT-644
BIAS TAPE
1/2” / 1
INNER WAISTBAND BOTTOM EDGE
WHITE
KHAKI
342 GREEN
WRIGHTS
Thread Details THREAD
BODY THREAD
COATS
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
ENTIRE GARMENT
Bill of Materials
WHITE
KHAKI
246 BROWN
6 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
Label Details Trim #
Description
Supplier
SIZE/ QTY
Location/Placement
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
COO-450
MAIN LABEL
SML
1 PC
CENTERED AT INSIDE BACK WAISTBAND
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
COO-2350
SIZE LABEL
SML
1 PC
INSERT BELOW MAIN LABEL CENTERED
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
470 BLUE WITH WHITE WRITING
101 WHITE
201 KHAKI
342 GREEN
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
KHAKI
KHAKI
KHAKI
Packaging Details Trim #
Description
Supplier
SIZE/ QTY
UPC-54694
UPC TICKET
SILVER PRINTING
1 PC
SWIFT TACKED ON LEFT HAND SIDE SEAM AS WORN BELOW BTTM WB SEAM OR BTTM WB TOPSTITCH
PP-340
PLASTIC PIN (75MM)
SILVER PRINTING
1 PC
THRU UPC TICKET AT LEFT HAND SIDESEAM AS WORN
MH33045
MAIN HANGTAG (REGULAR FIT)
SILVER PRINTING
1 PC
WEARER’S FRONT LEFT BELTLOOP
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
PB29847
PLASTIC BAG & TISSUE PAPER
KHAN LTD.
1 PC
TRI-FOLD BAG
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
AS MANUAL
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Location/Placement
Bill of Materials
7 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
STITCH DETAILS AREA
DESCRIPTION
STITCH CLASS
WIDTH
FRONT RISE
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
BACK RISE
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
SIDE SEAMS
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
INSEAMS
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
WAISTBAND
SINGLE NEEDLE
401 CHAINSTITCH
1/8” SN
FRONT POCKET
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
BACK FLAP
SINGLE NEEDLE
401 CHAINSTITCH
1/4” SN
FRONT POCKET LINING HEM
SINGLE NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
HAND DONE
FLAT-CATCH STITCH
1/2” SN
BELT LOOPS
TWIN NEEDLE
301 LOCKSTITCH
1/16” SN
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Stitch Detail
8 of 12
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Waist relaxed (Circumference at top WB) Waistband height Front Rise (to top WB) Back Rise (to top WB) Hip @ 3" up fm crotch point (Circumf.) Low Thigh @ 3" (Circumf.) Bottom Opening (Circumf.) Inseam Back Flap Height @ Center Back Flap Height @ Side Back Pocket Width @ Top Belt Loop Height (folded) Belt Loop Width (folded)
MISSY SHORT SPEC Measurements 1/4 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/2 1/4 1/2 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8
Tol (+) - 1/4 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/2 - 1/8 - 1/8 - 1/8 - 1/8 - 1/8
Tol (-) 34 2 8 13 1/2 36 1/2 20 3/4 18 1/2 10 1/4 1 3/4 1 1/4 5 1/2 2 1/2 1/4
4 35 2 8 1/4 13 3/4 37 1/2 21 1/4 18 3/4 10 1/2 1 3/4 1 1/4 5 1/2 2 1/2 1/4
6
36 2 8 1/2 14 38 1/2 21 3/4 19 10 3/4 1 3/4 1 1/4 5 1/2 2 1/2 1/4
8
SAMPLE SIZE 37 2 8 3/4 14 1/4 39 1/2 22 1/4 19 1/4 11 1 3/4 1 1/4 5 1/2 2 1/2 1/4
10
38 2 9 14 1/2 40 1/2 22 3/4 19 1/2 11 2 1 1/2 5 3/4 2 1/2 1/4
12
Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
B-A B-D B-G B-H B-K B-L B-N B-Q
code
POINTS of MEASURE (POM), WOVEN--Specs and tolerances are FULL MEASURE
MISSY SHORT S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
Graded Specification
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
9 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
100% Cotton Twill 100% Cotton Lining Fusing
FABRIC
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
TYPE Shell Lining WB, Flaps, Fly
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
PRICE / YD $5.00 $1.50 $0.50
USAGE 2.5 0.25 0.5
UOM YD YD YD
$ $ $
TOTAL PRICE 12.50 0.38 0.25
$
13.13
$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $
TOTAL PRICE 0.80 0.15 0.50 0.80 0.03 0.03 1.50 0.10 0.15 4.06
$ $ $ $
TOTAL COST 3.00 0.45 0.36 0.27
$
4.08
+ $ + $ + $ = $
17.19 4.08 0.50
TOTAL FABRIC TRIM BH-840 4 Hole Button Hole BH-847 2 Hole Button Hole ZP-461 CP Zipper DA1LHD Zipper Slider Main Label Country of Origin/ Size Label Thread UPC Ticket Packing Material (plastic bag)
TYPE
PRICE $0.20 $0.15 $0.50 $0.80 $0.03 $0.03 $1.50 $0.10 $0.15
USAGE 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
UOM Ea Ea Ea Ea Ea Ea Ea Ea Ea
TOTAL TRIM LABOR Cut & Make Trimming Labeling Packaging Total
SAM 25.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 37.00 TOTAL LABOR
TOTAL MATERIAL COST LABOR COST FINISHING COST GARMENT FOB DUTY SHIP(LOAD) COMMISSIONS QUOTA FEE LANDED COST
RATE 0.12 0.09 0.09 0.09
15% 9% 6% 2%
21.77
$ $ $ $
3.26 1.96 1.31 0.44
$
28.73
FRONT SKETCH
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Costing Sheet
10 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
Construction Sequence 1. Edge stitch front pocket knuckle facing to knuckle pocket lining. 2. Edge stitch front pocket facing palm to palm pocket lining. 3. Sew knuckle piece to front shorts panel across top with ½” SA. Iron to facing side and under stitch. 4. On back flap, line up lined piece with non-lined and sew across sides and bottom. Trim and clip. 5. Sew back darts into shorts back. Sew button holes to back pocket. 6. Sew knuckle and palm facings together around curve. Serge. Flip so serging is under and sew ¼” around curve to secure a clean edge. 7. Sew Pocket sides to leg ¼” in. 8. Attach front and back legs together separately via inseam and outseam. Serge. Sew crotch together up to zipper notch. 9. Sew on fly facing, right sides together. Edge stitch, sew on half of zipper. Sew fly shield on to opposite side, right sides together, with the other side of the zipper in between. 10. Match up waistband with notches and put belt loops in between waistband pieces. Sew waistband pieces together. Then sew across bottom of waistband, attaching it to shorts. 11. Sew seam tape to exposed edge of waistband. Fasten waistband down by stitching in between shorts and waistband. 12. Put button holes of waistband and hand sew buttons. 13. Hem bottom up 1 ½”.
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
Piece List 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.
Front leg-cut 2 self Back leg-cut 2 self Belt loops-cut 3 self Back pocket flaps-cut 4 self, cut 2 fuse Front pocket facing (knuckle)- cut 2 self, cut 2 fuse Front pocket lining (knuckle)- cut 2 lining Front pocket facing (palm)- cut 2 self, cut 2 fuse Front pocket lining (palm)- cut 2 lining Fly shield- cut 1 self, cut 1 fuse Fly facing- cut 1 self, cut 1 fuse Waistband front right0 cut 2 self, cut 1 fuse Waistband front left- cut 1 self Waistband front left facing- cut 1 self, cut 1 fuse Waistband back- cut 2 self, cut 1 fuse
Construction Sequence / Piece List
11 of 12
MISSY SHORT Season: SUMMER 2014 Description: BERMUDA SHORT
S56486
Delivery Name: BERMUDA
J CREW
Delivery Date: 4/15 Factory: FED FACTORY-SHANGHAI
DATE: UPDATE: INITIAL OF AUTHOR:
Modified: May 21, 2013 9:02 AM
Style History
12 of 12