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The Liquid issue
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Let us know which green words turn you on and which immediately switch you off and you could win a years subscription to EggMag! Email info@eggmag.co.uk. Competition closes 05/07/10. es Our appologi n, me to Sandra Ka th 20 director of tre, Century Thea we whose name spelt wrong last issue.
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WIN TICKETS TO LOVEBOX!
That’s right. We have a pair of tickets to give away, so turn over to p5 to find out how you can enter. For more information on the festival, see lovebox.net
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EGGMAG HQ PUBLISHER, Ed EdItoR & ARt dIRECtoR Ellie Good AR ME MEdIA & dESIGN MANAGER Holly Wilkinson A AdVERtISING ads@eggmag.co.uk PR PRoJECt MANAGER Duncan Hill SPLEN SPLENdId INtERN Helen Mills BIG tHANK YoUS: Anthony Scott, Erica Moon, John Hipkiss, James Bennett, Hans Somest, Jane Read, all our contributors, supporters, and the ever patient focus group – you know who you are. P PRINtING Headley Brothers Ltd., a company environmentally accredited to ISO 14001, FSC and PEFC certified.
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Published by EggMag Ltd. Copyright © 2010 EggMag Ltd www.eggmag.co.uk
The Liquid issue
Contents
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✷ = ON THE COVER 2
Welcome
4 FIVe Ideas EggMag’s festival survival guide, plus other clever findings 9 ✷ spotlIght on... Bottled water: what’s it worth?
56 IllUstRatIon competItIon 58 InteRIoRs Bathroom delights
SWALLOW 62 Food neWs
EYES & EARS 13 Joe’s gems Stilgoe’s got creative with his pen 14 mUsIc ReVIeWs Our pick this issue 16 ✷ andReya tRIana Her voice will make you melt
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65 toWpath A foodie’s delight by the canal 66 ✷ tapas & sheRRy Brindisa shares some recipes 68 gUIde to sUstaInaBle FIsh 70 ✷ RIse oF the URBan Bee Let’s fill our towns with honey
23 BooK ReVIeWs 24 FoUR lIons Chris Morris and his new movie
INFO PAGES
26 magnIFIcent 7 FIlms
74 WoRd on the stReet
28 RIchaRd WIlson Is slIcK The artist and his room of oil
76 goIngs on
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78 a RIVeR steeped In hIstoRy See the Thames in a new light
AESTHETICS
80 london’s Best lIdos Go on, dive in
32 FashIon neWs
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36 ✷ FRom RaIn to shIne Forecast-ready fashion
86 sURFeRs on a mIssIon This bunch demand clean water!
46 BeaUty & gRoomIng neWs Get ready for the sun
88 addRess BooK
✷ peRFect UK BReaKs
48 ✷ scents sense What are you putting on your skin?
92 sUBscRIBe & FInd eggmag
53 ✷ Jo Wood On rock ‘n’ roll organics
96 snIppets Jo Royle’s life at sea
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up in an amazi w e r g ng m I – l a w s a a d y w s u l e o s s r h i o e e c s a u h m l o h t eon e singing or dancing
SOUL WAVES e such a thing as liquid v If there wer elvet, Andreya Triana’s voice would h i s T h . n o nest soul s nitio f e d e h t e b inger is on the up, but she’s not letting h e s , t e d a l l s e h E r l e l i e h o G ood it go t
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meet Andreya Triana in Camden’s Jazz Café on a rainy afternoon. It’s the day of the HMV Next Big Thing gig in which she is performing and, as I step onto the balcony, I see the silhouette of a figure in a dark corner, listening to a band do their soundcheck. As I walk over, the figure turns and I see it is Andreya, her warm smile putting me at ease before we even say hello. Wearing a super-casual, oversized jumper and hair tied back, she leads me into the green room (that little room on the first floor of the Jazz Café building that you can just see into if you stand on the opposite side of Parkway). ‘How’s life treating you?’ I ask as the band downstairs abruptly kick into another number. It’s not so quiet, so we shuffle closer together and Andreya raises her voice over the music. ‘Busy! Busy, busy! But great! It’s the build up to my album launch and because I manage myself I have to take care of the day-to-day running of things – promoting and arranging rehearsals – but I also need to keep writing. Those two things don’t go hand in hand.’ It sounds like a handful, and thankfully just as I ask her if she’s writing at the moment, the noisy soundcheck downstairs finishes. ‘I find it easier to do it in chunks. Right now, for example, it’s not really a priority – I’m doing about 90% emails and organising, and 10% creative work, which seems so wrong! But that’s the way it is, so I’ve just got to roll with it.’ Andreya’s background is wonderfully varied. She tells me how all through her childhood she was surrounded by a melting pot of cultures. ‘My Mum’s Jamaican, my Dad is half Scottish and half Trinidadian, and my stepdad is South American. I grew up round Brixton, which is home to every ethnicity you can imagine. All those cultures have influenced me in some way.’
What a lovely backdrop to grow up with. I want to know if her musicality was directly influenced by this diverse childhood. ‘Absolutely,’ she says. ‘My whole family is hugely musical – they haven’t all had careers in music, it’s just something that flows through our veins.’ Andreya beams as she explains, ‘My grandparents have fantastic voices and my mum is a habitual singer; she’ll be doing the washing up, singing along! She’s fantastic. She also used to play the steel drum at the Notting Hill Carnival, but then she had me, and that went down the drain! ‘I grew up in an amazing musical household – it was really free, and there was always someone singing or dancing.’ ‘So I guess my next question about when you officially got the music bug is no longer valid,’ I say. She continues, ‘People always ask me where it all started, but it was never a conscious decision. I grew up surrounded by it, so music just came naturally. It’s always been what I was going to do. I suppose music became more of a focus to me when I was about seven. That was when I started singing, writing poetry and songs; generally tinkering about. I remember being at school, and having this urge to sing to people. I sang in the choir, and when I finally got to the year where you could have a solo, the teacher who sorted them out had left. No-one else bothered to organise them – I was gutted!’ Andreya moved to Worcester at the age of 14, and I ask how the move came about. As soon as I mention this, I detect a waver in her, so far, genuinely happy aspect. ‘My stepdad got a new job, so we had to uproot. I have to say, it was one of the most traumatic, but important experiences I’ve had. I was taken out of this mixing pot of cultures in London to a predominantly white, middle-class area. It kind of put me in isolation. I www.eggmag.co.uk
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didn’t have all my friends around me, so I completely withdrew and spent my time getting really obsessed with my vocals and listening to – and writing – music and poetry. ‘Then, when I was about 17, I managed to hook up with some local musicians who were in a band called Bootis. I met them through an open mic night at a place called The Marrs Bar (yes, it really was called that!) I’m not a technical musician at all – my music is very much about my feelings – and I learnt a hell of a lot from them. They were all about improvisation and being free musically, and I learnt some important fundamental things that I still stick to today. They introduced me to a lot of soul, funk and psychedelic music that I hadn’t heard before: they took
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on board a very introverted little girl and opened my eyes! They formed the benchmark for my musical education, so I really do owe them a lot.’ She was to be alone once more when, after finishing university, she moved to London. ‘Bootis had split up and I had nothing. I didn’t know anyone there anymore, and I couldn’t even play the guitar at the time. But then I met Reggie [Watts, the comedian/musician] who used a Line 6 DL4 sampler to loop sounds and accompany himself vocally. It completely mesmerised me, so I took that idea and used it myself. It meant that I didn’t have to hire any musicians and I could really get out there on the music scene – it made me totally self-sufficient.’ So, did the Freeflo Sessions (her hypnotic one-woman live shows that use a sampler to loop vocals and beats) evolve from this self-sufficient musical style? ‘The Freeflo grew from watching this guy who just blew my mind to trying it myself,’ Andreya says. ‘I still use that in my sets, but it will take a back seat this evening as tonight’s gig is all about promoting the album. It’s still there though, floating around from time to time – I use it for delays, harmonies and other effects.’ In 2006, Andreya was chosen to attend the Red Bull Music Academy – a four-week music workshop for 60 selected students from across the globe, who are mentored by past pioneers and musical legends of tomorrow. ‘It was the most amazing experience – so intense. There were musicians from all over the world, all collaborating and writing together. It opened so many doors – I met so many people, and even recorded a track called Tea Leaf Dancers with Flying Lotus that did quite well afterwards. They had great food as well – amazing chocolate brownies! ‘Everyone had a chance to work with everyone, and we all chatted about different things. I’d say I probably learnt something from every single person there, although I suppose my relationship with Flying Lotus has been the most important – and it still continues today – he did the remix on my first single Lost Where I Belong, so it’s worked out nicely.’ Andreya has been noticed by Gilles Peterson too – always a good person to have on your side. ‘I saw him two days ago actually, at the Worldwide Awards. He’s such a lovely guy. I did a radio interview with him a while ago, and beforehand, I was thinking, “Oh my God, it’s radio. Ahhh!” But he’s so nice – totally
COLOUR IMAGES: Oscar and Ewan
Eyes & Ears
etely withdr l p m o c i ew e m o t i m g n u i t s n a i e y c an n m list d wr d spent try iting poe put me at ease and he’s just a guy, you know? So I was like, “Oh, this is FINE!” And of course I really appreciate his support.’ There’s an enviable coolness she exudes, considering she’s been associated with such a hip bunch of musical bods –the most notable so far being her collaboration with Bonobo. ‘I met Bonobo through a mutual friend when he was looking for a singer for the Worldwide Awards 2006. So of course I said yes, but I did such a bad job of it, I was so nervous!’ I have heard Andreya’s voice, so I say that I highly doubt that, but she’s adamant, No, no I did, it was bad, it was BAD! But it worked out anyway, because he said he wanted to work with me.’ Yes, quite. Case rested – and now Bonobo has produced her debut album. ‘It’s been really good working with him – I can’t quite explain the chemistry of it,’ she says. ‘He’ll suggest something that I’m not sure about, but we do it anyway and
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FILMS: the MagnIFIcent EggMag’s movie know-it-alls Garreth Hynes and Ewan Fraser take a look at some of their favourite fluid films WhISKY gaLORe! (1949) Director: alexander Mackendrick Who in their right mind would turn down a free drink? Certainly not the residents of the Hebridean Island of Todday, where life revolves around the steady consumption of their beloved whisky. Disaster strikes, however, when wartime rationing ensures the community are left with nothing but water. Luckily, fate decides to intervene when a cargo ship containing 50,000 cases of whisky runs aground off the coast of their island. The parched community hatch a plan to steal the precious liquid before the Home Guard can find out. This classic Ealing comedy is a real jewel of British cinema – like a good dram it will leave you feeling warm inside! EF good for: Mischievous laugh-out-loud fun for all ages.
LaKe PLacID (1999) Director: Steve Miner Written by the creator of Ally McBeal and directed by the man who gave us Friday the 13th 2 & 3, it is populated with character actors like Bill Pullman and Bridget Fonda. The story sees two man-eating crocodiles terrorising the eponymous lake, and follows the oddball team brought together to stop them. The Ally McBeal link is evident in the film’s offbeat tone – the woman feeding a cow to a croc in the same way that one might feed bread to ducks, being a prime example. It’s this quirkiness that made Lake Placid a failure on release, but it found a life on DVD and eventually spawned two inferior sequels. It’s this original film that exists as a strange, hidden gem – there really was something in that water. GH good for: Something a bit different.
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theRe WILL Be BLOOD (2007) Director: Paul thomas anderson
It's a corker!
“If I have a milkshake…” What Daniel Day Lewis’s performance lacks in subtlety it makes up for in power, conviction and intensity. The near silent first 20 minutes establishes Daniel Plainview as a man driven to succeed, but also makes it clear that this film will not pander to modern Hollywood’s need for audience-friendly material, even in its alleged highbrow fare. We watch Plainview destroy anyone he needs to (including his adopted son), railroad over an entire town and lock heads with the local preacher – all on his quest to becoming one of America’s first oil barons. By the time we get to his famous milkshake rant, we have watched a man barely held together by the requirements of working with people in the field, now completely come apart as he sits alone in the opulent prison he has come to call home. A truly astonishing film, There Will Be Blood will be discussed and poured over for many years to come. GH good for: Some serious, frightening drama.
Eyes & Ears D.O.a. (1988) Directors: Rocky Morton and annabel Jankel A rain-soaked man staggers into a police station to report a murder – his own. Opening with one of the greatest hooks in movie history, Dennis Quaid is a fatally poisoned college professor, who has 24 hours to track down his killer. This wonderfully trashy remake of the 1949 film noir classic is given a full MTV makeover by the creators of Max Headroom, Morton and Jankel. As the toxic solution from his spiked drink slowly works its way through his system, dead-man-walking Quaid stumbles through various red herrings to a superbly ridiculous twist at the finale. It’s so absurd it’s enough to have you reaching for the poison yourself! EF good for: A terrifically trashy thrill ride.
SIDeWaYS (2004) Director: alexander Payne Unpublished writer Miles (Paul Giamatti) takes his wayward and soon-to-be-married friend Jack (Thomas Haden Church) to the wine country of Santa Barbara, California. Miles wants to sample fine wine, play golf and enjoy a sedate break. Jack wants to have one last fling and is determined to score, despite his friend’s morose demeanour as he pines for his ex-wife. Thus begins one of the best films of the Noughties and, for my money, the best film of Alexander Payne’s career. Miles and Jack are old college friends but have little in common now – Jack’s uncouth behaviour (like tasting wine while chewing gum) contrasts fantastically for the most part with Miles’s more refined manner. Church was Oscar-nominated and, excellent though he is, it’s Giamatti’s quiet dignity (that he hilariously loses every so often) that steals the film. Funny, touching and a wonderful ode to the most important liquid of all – wine. GH good for: Gentle and funny drama.
the WageS OF FeaR (1953) Director: henri-georges clouzot This winner of the top prize at Cannes and Berlin is a leading contender for the most nerve-wracking movie ever made. A nightmarish tale of four men paid to drive trucks of liquid nitroglycerin along hazardous roads, which further cemented Clouzot’s reputation as ’The French Hitchcock’. While exploring the exploitation of workers Clouzot pulls no punches in his portrayal of desperate men who live life with the odds stacked against them. This is a real masterclass in nail-biting, edge-ofyour-seat cinema, as the audience endures every moment of the s: Don’t mis terrifying journey, knowing that n Li e, the one wrong move could easily End of The ry documenta ignite the liquid explosive. EF hard-hitting rve o f o s ct fe good for: Action and about the ef 9 .9 DVD for £8 adventure in a European style. fishing. on k o.u at amazon.c
DeeP WateR (2006) Directors: Louise Osmond and Jerry Rothwell The awesome power of the ocean – and the people who pit themselves against it – is well explored in this documentary about Donald Crowhurst’s ill-fated 1968 attempt to circumnavigate the globe. The first, non-stop, round-theworld Golden Globe Race promised fame and fortune to its winner, but Crowhurst (one of nine contestants) was not prepared for the magnitude of the task. Finding himself in a leaky boat on the high seas, he was left with the choice of turning back and facing financial ruin, or sailing on to a certain death. In desperation he found a third option in faking his voyage. This haunting but moving tale charts the extraordinary mental and physical extremes endured by men who dare to tackle the sea alone. EF good for: An engrossing true-life mystery.
Watch FILMS OnLIne: check out LoveFilm’s brilliant Watch Online service at lovefilm.com FOR cURRent FILM ReVIeWS: Look no further than eggmagmovies.blogspot.com www.eggmag.co.uk
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From
Rain TO Shine
You can’t predict the British summer weather, so be prepared for any forecast with umbrellas, picnic fashion and swimwear PHOTOGRAPHY George Garnier STYLING Io Takemura
PREVIOUS PAGE REMY wears: Shirt, £49 by American Apparel. Trousers, £20, braces, £10, and mac, £40 by Rokit. Felt fedora, £30 by Pachacuti. Umbrella, £40 by London Undercover CLAIRE wears: Mac, £430 by Christopher Raeburn. Dress (worn underneath), £210 by Lena Santana. Earrings, £28 by Rosie Weisencrantz THIS PAGE REMY wears: Shirt, £55 by People Tree. Tie £8 by Rokit. Waistcoat, £85, and trousers, £109 by Article 23. Shoes, £100.50 by Bourgeois Boheme CLAIRE wears: Top, £39 by Annie Greenabelle. Skirt, £185 by Anatomy. Socks, £9 for three pairs by American Apparel. Shoes, £173 by Beyond Skin. Recycled scarf, £45 by Tamasyn Gambell. Necklace, £165 by Rosie Weisencrantz PROPS: Tablecloth, £10 by Eric’s store at Spitalfields vintage market. Phone, £60 by Nanadobbie
CLAIRE wears: Culotte suit, £51 by Annie Greenabelle. Recycled polyester trousers, £425 by Julia Smith. Recycled scarf, £45 by Tamasyn Gambell. Necklace, £175 by Rosie Weisencrantz. Corsage, £45 by A Alicia REMY wears: Shirt, £49 by Quail. Tie, £6 by Rokit. Trousers, £109 by Article 23. Fedora, £120 by Pachacuti PROPS: Picnic mat, £10, and cup and saucer, £8 by Eric’s store at Spitalfields vintage market. Thermos box, photographer's own
The fragrance industry is big business, but behind its glamorous front is a barrage of toxic chemicals. Olivia Marks pokes her nose into perfumes and finds a wealth of natural options – and there’s not a patchouli flower in sight ILLUSTRATION Parisa Walklett
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t the height of a New York summer, in unlucky New Yorkers, by passing a perfume-drenched store. the heart of Manhattan’s Meat Packing Similarly, it’s not the smell of a particular scent itself sufferers are District, it isn’t surprising that people averse to, but the growing number of chemicals that are found in them. might feel nauseous from breathing Most mainstream, conventional perfumes are made up of over in the rotten, overwhelming smells that hang in the 4,000 synthetic chemicals – 95% of which are, according to the US stagnating air. At least, it wasn’t surprising when the National Academy of Sciences, derived from petrochemicals believed area was used for the original purpose its name refers to be harmful to our bodies as well as the environment. The two main to. But since butchers were replaced with boutiques and man-made nasties that cause the greatest concern are synthetic musks fetid flesh made way for high fashion, it’s hard to believe and phthalates. The former has been linked to cancer, while the latter the air would now be anything other than, well, fresh. (according to a study carried out in Sweden) has been associated And yet for many pedestrians passing by Diane von with reproductive damage in men. Furthermore, to help ensure Furstenberg’s store last July, they were met with a smell so ‘recipes’ are not copied, perfume-makers are not obliged to list ‘putrid’ that they suffered dizzy spells and coughing fits. The their ingredients. The words ‘parfum’ (in the EU) or ‘fragrance’ cause? The designer’s signature scent D eau de Parfum that (in the US) are deemed explanation enough as to what was wafting from air vents onto the street. comprises the concoction. Quite possibly, those that complained about the strong and It is well worth pointing out that the chemicals used in overpowering odour were sufferers of fragrance sensitivity, a conventional perfumes are constantly undergoing safety condition that affects people intolerant to conventional perfumes checks and have been approved for cosmetic use. The odd as well as scented household goods such as air fresheners and spray of scent isn’t going to result in fatality or infertility, detergents. Symptoms can include dizziness, fatigue, rashes, hives, but while the use of chemicals in fragrance is by no means watery eyes, sore throat and a tight chest. Fragrance sensitivity ideal, many brands find the synthetic solution preferable has even been blamed for learning difficulties and depression, to the animal-derived alternatives. Animal substances but is still not a widely recognised problem in the UK – unlike that are commonly found in perfumes and aftershaves are in Halifax, Canada, where the wearing of cosmetic fragrances often sourced to the detriment of that creature’s wellbeing. has been banned from public spaces in much the same way Sadly, the musk deer, beavers, sperm whales and civet cats all as smoking has in this country. contain secretions valuable to the fragrance industry and will An allergic reaction to perfume is not just caused by direct undoubtedly suffer in order that the industry obtain them. skin contact with a cologne or eau de toilette, but also passively But, needless to say, it hasn’t always been this way. Beavers’ – through inhaling someone’s aftershave or, in the case of those genitals haven’t always been the first port of call to make sweet-
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Aesthetics smelling scents, nor have the diseased stomachs of sperm whales (yes, really). Perfumes have existed for millennia, principally in religious and ritualistic practices, then gradually as a symbol of luxury, status and as a way to mask the medieval smells we only come across these days on overcrowded public transport, gym changing rooms and public lavatories. Funnily enough, the ancient Greeks didn’t have access to synthetic chemicals either, nor did the court of Louis XVI. The first fragrance that was made using chemical synthesis was at the end of the 19th century, but certainly not to the extent that it is used today. The majority of perfumes and aftershaves available now are so manipulated that their scent is not based anywhere near reality. Natural and organic fragrances made using traditional practices have never disappeared from the marketplace, but the wealth and diversity of which there is to choose from is perhaps in need of highlighting. For those that read the phrase ‘natural perfume’ and only see the word ‘patchouli’, couldn’t (thankfully) be more wrong. Although some natural YOU KNOW THESE MAKE SCENTS scents may take some getting used to compared to the potency of ...and natural ones at that. Here’s conventional perfumes, they needn’t be tarnished with the hippie stick. EggMag’s pick of the best natural smells Solid perfumes made from beeswax are not only free from the FOR HIM potentially harmful list of ingredients, but can also be beautiful to look n NYR Men Cologne, £18.80 for 50ml, from at. Frazer Parfum is one such perfumery that creates zesty smelling Neal’s Yard Remedies solid perfumes (as well as the liquid type) using 18th century methods. n Florascent Aqua Colonia for Men, £60 for 60ml, As such, there are no chemicals or alcohol in their products and from The Natural Store no raw materials are tested on animals. What’s more, the perfume n Korres Saffron Fragrance For Men £38 for 100ml itself is encased in a sustainable African Blackwood case which also makes it easy to transport without the risk of spillage. Aftelier is UNISEX another such company offering solid perfumes, but this time the n EOS For Him and Her, approximately £20 for 15ml goods come in exquisite one-of-a-kind antique metal cases. FOR HER Many natural scents, being created from essential oils, share the n 100% Natural Fig & Mace perfume, range from principles of aromatherapy and homeopathy. Not only do these £25 for 50ml, from Wickle smell delicious, but also give the mood-enhancing benefits that n Aftelier solid perfumes, from approximately £83 come from blending essential oils that conventional fragrances n Frazer Parfum perfumes, approximately £69 for 5g can’t offer. Try Wickle’s good-enough-to-eat Fig & Mace n Honoré des Prés, from £89 for 100ml, from perfume or any of Neal’s Yard Remedies’ Remedies to Roll range. Les Senteurs There are even some carbon neutral perfumes available that n Jo Wood Organics Eau de Toilette, £36 for 50ml do just that. EOS For Him and Her is a perfume that uses n Korres Fragrances, £38 for 100ml brewery waste (although luckily not backwash at the bottom n Pacifica Solid Perfume, £10 for 10g, from of a pint) to replace petroleum in the production process, Beauty Naturals making it fully carbon neutral. Korres is another brand that n Remedies To Roll, £5.70 for 9ml, from Neal’s not only makes carbon neutral scents, but also supports ethical Yard Remedies employment by using Pack-It, an organisation that See p53 to n Rosewood Solid Perfume by Soap and Paper find out about provides employment for people with disabilities or Jo Wood’s Factory, £14 for 0.5oz, from Puresha disadvantages in the employment market. So now you heavenly scents can smell and feel really good too! For stockists, see p88
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Swallow
In our gobs by the looks of things. Helen Mills finds out how to be a responsible fish-eater
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t’s hard to imagine that the oceans, in all their vastness, could ever run out of fish. After all, who hasn’t been told at one time or another: ‘Chin up – plenty more fish in the sea!’ Unfortunately, this is no longer the case. According to the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) one-quarter of the world’s fish stocks are over exploited, while half of the stocks are fully exploited and being fished to their maximum limits. Fishing irresponsibly has a strong impact on the ocean; it affects the marine environment in many ways, from destroying habitats to altering the food chain, which means that species will, and are, dying out. Although it sounds bleak there is something we can do to preserve the ecosystems of the sea. Purchasing seafood with the MSC ecolabel means that you are buying seafood from sustainable and
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well-managed fisheries, and are thus helping to prevent depletion of fish stocks. Buying certain fish at certain times can also make a difference; if we hold off from buying fish during their spawning period it will help stop their numbers dropping. A table detailing which fish to buy when, is available at tinyurl.com/yhqg5qg Restaurants that we know serve sustainable seafood are: • Duke of Cambridge, N1 8JT • Moshi Moshi, EC2M 7QH, E14 5EW and Brighton BN1 1JS • Soseki, EC3A 5AX • Fifteen London, N1 7LP • Paternoster Chop Houses • Tom’s Kitchen, SW3 3QP • Pret a Manger • Check out Fish 2 Fork, the restaurant guide for people who love to eat fish sustainably. fish2fork.com
WHERE TO SHOP In a survey taken by the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) to find out which supermarkets have the best policies for selling responsibly sourced fish, the following came out top: ExCEllEnT: The Co-operative VERy GOOd: Sainsbury’s GOOd: Waitrose, Marks & Spencer
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WHICH FISH TO BUy It is by no means as simple as eating some fish and not others, but here is a basic rough guide. For a much more comprehensive list, take a look at fishonline.org. FISH TO AVOId Cod (Atlantic) Grouper Haddock Halibut (Atlantic / Greenland) lobster (American) Tiger Prawn Salmon (Atlantic) Tuna (albacore / bigeye / northern bluefin / Pacific bluefin / southern bluefin)
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FISH TO EAT Cod (Pacific) lemon sole lobster (Mexican Baja Californian red rock / western Australian rock) Mackerel Mussels Oysters Salmon (organic Atlantic / Pacific) Scampi Skipjack tuna
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To guarantee you’re buying sustainably, look out for the MSC logo. www.eggmag.co.uk
IMAGE: Dreamstime
I wonder where that fish did go!
Canal cuisine I SHOULDN’t reaLLy be wrItINg tHIS – ONce yOU’ve DIScOvereD It, tOwpatH IS tHe kIND Of pLace yOU’LL waNt tO keep UNDer yOUr Hat
✷ Opening times: Weekdays 8am-dusk saturday 9am-dusk sunday 10am-dusk Closed on mondays
The Regent’s Canal plays host to a constant hum of life: whether it’s the chatty geese, the stern cyclists, or friends out for a stroll, there’s always something going on – and all with the backdrop of the peaceful waterway. ‘I love looking at the reflections on the water and the life that goes by along the canal,’ says Lori De Mori, one half of the brains behind Towpath, the new, tiny food heaven that opened recently between Hackney and Islington. Jason Lowe, a food photographer, is the other half – in business and in life: the two met working on a book in Italy where Lori lived until last year. De Mori explains that she loves the different ways people integrate eating into their lives and how, at Towpath, people are connected to the food in a sociable environment. Customers receive a personal greeting and something really delicious, much like the coffee bars and small cafes you find in Europe. With tasty bites served on vintage crockery and the bar frontage made from reclaimed wood, the place has a lived-in, homely feel. Its open viewpoint is integral to the sociable atmosphere and makes it easy to turn a quick snack into a long, day-dreamy lunchbreak. The outstanding food comes courtesy of Laura Jackson and the café’s smooth running is assisted by Amanda Thompson. So far, I have tried the flavoursome porridge with poached quince breakfast, the mouthwatering toasted cheese sandwich made with Montgomery’s Cheddar and St John bread (below centre), and have also had the pleasure of tasting their blood orange possett (top left), which blew me away and will happily talk about for months. Nods to Italy appear on the menu with dishes such as the cavalo nero bruschetta (above), but a British seasonality shines through. Lori views the project as a learning curve and is immersing herself in our culture and cuisine, “I really love rhubarb – and marmalades and possets!” Looking ahead, the Towpath team wish to host more events like their recent Catalan barbecue, and if all goes well, they may have an alcohol licence by the time you read this! As the days get longer, this tiny gastrogem is the perfect balmy evening spot this summer. Find Towpath at Bridge 43 (Whitmore Road), Regent’s Canal, London
WORDS Ellie Good
PHOTOGRAPHS Jason Lowe
kist stoc
Death,
sex honey &
plants – the very things we eat, or feed to animals, which we then go on to eat. With the bees failing to reproduce, we are facing a pollinator shortage. Should this trend continue, we could face a rapid decline in food production. How bad could it get? Well, Einstein is reported to have given humans four years to live beyond the death of bees: ‘No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no more man.’ The importance of honeybees cannot be overstated. Some people have taken it upon themselves to replenish the pollinator population by setting up hives in the middle of the city. While beekeeping hasn’t traditionally been widely practiced inside the M25, it is emerging as the unexpectedly sexy hobby of choice for switched-on Londoners. Suddenly, it Moved by recent worries seems, everyone wants to keep bees. With eight years’ experience (and only a few over the bee shortage, Sara stings) Dr Luke Dixon is an authority on urban Williams explores the rise beekeeping. The self-described ‘roving bee man’ is often found on rooftops across the capital, where he of the urban beekeeper tends hives as part of greening initiatives and CSR ver the past few years, strange things have endeavours by NatMags and Fortnum & Mason, among others. been happening in beehives across the globe. Part of the appeal is that urban beekeeping demands little Experienced beekeepers have checked on time or effort. Bees don’t need a lot of space or care, which makes previously healthy hives, only to find silence, hobbyist beekeeping an easy and potentially rewarding activity. stillness and a handful of corpses. The bees are disappearing. At most, the hobby improves both macro and micro environment It’s not just happening in the US, or China, or Europe – it’s and yields honey. But there’s more to the relationship than everywhere. Scarier still, there’s no clear explanation for the drop sweetener and green issues. in honeybee populations. The primary cause is Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD), but that in itself is a false positive; CCD is ‘It’s a fine line between tough simply a term for the disappearance of a colony of bees. Colonies love and dead bees.’ weakened by illness or malnutrition can go on to collapse, but Dixon hints at a deeper connection when talk just as often the collapse comes without warning or explanation. Certainly, the usual suspects are worth a look: shifts in global turns to stinging – a kamikaze move, he says, bees only resort to weather patterns have been blamed for thwarting bees’ natural when threatened. ‘Stings aside, bees are delicate creatures bent rhythms, and some pesticides are known to be poisonous to on their own survival.’ There’s a certain amount of respect in this them. Then there are the myriad of diseases to which bees fall description, testament to a pattern of anthropomorphisation that prey, from American foulbrood (a bacterial infection) to mites. crops up again and again in my discussions with beekeepers. Few are easily cured, but none alone is a likely cause for CCD. Like Dixon, Ian Douglas, a second-year beekeeper, is Bee mortality has skyrocketed. Between 40 to 50% of bees concerned about the dwindling honeybee population. As chief die prematurely (before reproduction). And there’s the rub: bee correspondent for The Telegraph, his beekeeping is diarised, honeybees don’t just make honey. They pollinate flowers and so during the summer visits his hives – and feeds his bees – more
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IMAGES: Dreamstime
Swallow often than is strictly needed. This means his bees are perhaps more dependent on him for food than would be ideal. Again, there’s the human connection: ‘My bees are spoiled,’ he admits, ‘but it’s a fine line between tough love and dead bees.’ For both beekeepers, the duty of care extended from keeper to kept has developed into an emotional relationship. While Dixon and Douglas are pleased to contribute to the city’s biodiversity and reinvigorate the honeybee population, this isn’t what first drew them to the beekeeper’s veil. In separate conversations, they describe similar fascinations with the pastime. For Dixon it was a calming, meditative practice, ‘the antidote to modern life’. Similarly for Douglas, who had been wary of stinging insects, there was something ‘very calming and liberating’ about facing up to the sting factor and spending time with these captivating creatures. So what is it about bees, anyway? Bees are socially developed creatures that live in highly evolved societies and adhere to complex behavioural rules. They are bestowed of very human traits – territoriality, kinship, diligence, an awareness of status – that strike a resounding chord with us. Individually, they fascinate, but collectively, they astonish. A colony of bees functions, quite extraordinarily, as a single organism with a collective consciousness. The queen is at the centre. The female workers and male drones serve her and gather food, and clean and repair the hive. So far, so similar to modern Britain. But it is in their sex lives that bees truly astound. The virgin queen leaves the hive on a top-secret mating flight, bound for a mystery location where she will mate with multiple drones, all of which die in the act of sex. Why and how this all happens is still not fully understood: the bee orgy, if you will, has yet to be fully documented, so protective are the bees of the queen. The queen stores all the drones’ sperm and, once she’s had enough, flies back to the hive to feed, rest, and fertilise eggs for the rest of her life. The mass bee orgy normally happens just once a season, and the mating itself happens on the wing. Afterwards, the queen can lay in excess of 1,000 eggs. Bees truly are fascinating creatures. The average honeybee lives just six weeks, while a queen bee lives for around five years. Bees need nectar and pollen to survive, and they create wax and honey – the latter of which they can consume, making them just about completely self-sustaining. A colony usually takes up to two years to bed in and start producing honey, but it can collapse in just a day. Einstein gave us four years from the flight of the last honeybee to the swan song of homo sapiens. Alarmist?
Dr Luke Dixon’s manmade hive – everything you need to keep bees
Alas, probably not. Humankind hasn’t yet found a way to beat the bees at the pollination game. Other bugs can pollinate, but not as quickly, effectively, or on such a large scale as can honeybees. There is a common-sense onus on us, dependent as we are on honeybees, to do everything we can do to support their resurgence. It is down to the individual to choose whether this means keeping hives, planting more flowers, averting one’s eyes should one ever see the bee shag-train in motion, or all of the above. After all, we need the bees more than they need us.
TIPS FOR KEEPING YOUR OWN
n Start-up costs are around £500 for equipment, a queen, some workers and a hive. Try the urbanfriendly Beehaus (below), from £465. omlet.co.uk n Try Honey Bees at Home for a bespoke service that do the hard work for you. honeybeesathome.com n On Twitter? Follow beekeepers for news and tips. n Join the London Bee Keepers Association for mentoring, courses and taster days. lbka.org.uk n Read Ian Douglas’s beekeeping diary at telegraph.co.uk/gardening/beekeeping
BEE SMART n Learn more with A World Without Bees by Alison Benjamin & Brian McCallum (right). n Support beekeepers: buy local honey. n Check out The Golden Company,
a youth social enterprise in Hackney that make its own honey! thegoldenco-op.com
INFO
LONDON’S COOLEST LIDOS
Feelin’ hot, hot, hot? Need to cool, cool, cool down? Here’s where to go, go, go for a splash in the city, with a bit of fresh air for good measure BROCKWELL LIDO Opened in 1937 the Brockwell Lido has been an oasis enjoyed by thousands of sizzling city-dwellers year after year. The alluring art deco style building surrounding the 50m pool is particularly striking and, with the lavish hydrotherapy area, sauna, steam room, and café, there is really no reason not to unwind here this summer. Dulwich Road, SE24 0PA. £5.20, kids £3.10 (-5’s free)
LONDON FIELDS LIDO For those who aren’t quite brave enough for a cold plunge, the London Fields Lido is the only 50m heated outdoor pool in the city. Maintained at 25ºC, it’s great for a swim on a not-so warm day, but still fresh enough to cool you down on a roaster. London Fields West Side, E8 3EU. £4.10, kids £2.45
HAMPSTEAD HEATH PONDS Originally dug in the 17th and 18th centuries as reservoirs, these ponds have been used for swimming by plucky Londoners from as early as 1860. There are three pools: one for girls, one for boys and one mixed pool – all of which boast the beautiful surroundings of the park and are great for a gutsy dive on a hot day. Hampstead Heath, NW5 1QR. £2, concs £1
HAMPTON POOL Situated on the edge of the Bushy Park, this heated pool is open all year round and has a grassy area for relaxing in between splashes. Why not take the little’uns to see a play on the lawns of the pool while you’re at it? This year they host James and the Giant Peach amongst others. For info see hamptonpool.co.uk High Street, Hampton TW12 2ST. £4.60, 4 to15yrs £2.90
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PARLIAMENT HILL LIDO A stone’s throw away from Gospel Oak station, the recently updated Parliament Hill Lido is perfect for a refreshing dip after a wander around Hampstead Heath. The views of the city from its lofty location and its surrounding steps give it a liberating and spacious feel and make it the ideal spot to soak up some rays. Parliament Hill, NW5 1QR. £4.10, concs £2.70
POOLS ON THE PARK This unique gym and leisure club, located in the beautiful Old Deer Park, is great for all your health and fitness needs. The lido is ideal for lengths while the inviting grassy area surrounding the pools is perfect for lounging away the summer days. As well as the pools, there are tennis courts and a fully equipped gym. Twickenham Road, TW9 2SF. £4.10, 5 to 16yrs £3.25
HAMPSTEAD IMAGE: Layton Thompson COMPILED BY Helen Mills
SERPENTINE LIDO This charming swimming spot is great for a relaxing swim right in the heart of the city – as long as you don’t mind sharing the lake with the odd duck! There is also a veranda for sun bathing and deck chairs available for hire, which all add up to the perfect sunny afternoon – or lovely, long lunch-break. Hyde Park W2 3XA. £4, concs £3, -16yrs £1
TOOTING BEC LIDO Opened in 1906 this lido is the biggest fresh-water, open -air pool in England at a whopping 90m. There is also a children’s pool, café, sunbathing area and colourful dressing-sheds, which make it a popular site. The lido has even been visited by Brad Pitt while filming Snatch – if it’s good enough for Mr Pitt, it’s good enough for us! Tooting Bec Road, SW16 1UT. £4.75, concs £3.15
MAKE A DAY OF IT. Lidos are great value, so why not take advantage of a super-cheap, lazy day out by taking a picnic along? Track down some Prosecco, make a little tapas selection (see recipes on p66 for inspiration) and Bob’s your uncle!