the photography issue
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here are always at least two people in a surf photo. The surfer and the photographer. A surf photographer does not shoot what he sees, he shoots what we feel. And that puts him in the photo too. Funny how we use the term for surf photographers being “behind the lens”. When in fact they are in front of it. Surfers are not surfing in front of photographers, photographers are shooting in front of surfers. And that is why in this issue we honor some the best photographers in the world. Our photographers. The men and women that bring our best moments back to life. Forever. In this issue we have the very personal work of Pete Frieden, who we dispatched to the North Shore for the Hawaiian season. His portraits
photos of Indonesia and its Indonesian surfers, as well as a spattering of the international crew. Because photography is way of touching, of feeling…of loving surfing. Proof of how rich reality really is. How dramatic. Because without photography we would all suffer from a kind of silence. Photography is the only true international language, understood in a glance from sea level to the top of Everest. Because photography is not about what these photographers see, it’s about the way they see things. Great photography is about knowing where to be. Knowing where to stand. Knowing where you stand. The waves are forgotten to the surfer in his search for more. The photographer is the lasting witness. So we invite you to dive
of the stars being a result of lifelong friendships with the best. We go back and find some unpublished gems from Jason Childs. The double page spread of Andy Irons surfing Keramas on the best day of the decade is a mind blower. And we check in with Liquid Barrel, one of the hardest working men in the sport. Aside from his portfolio, he has brought back photos of the Mentawai featuring a gargantuan day at Lance’s Rights. A day that would make anyone check their soul. All this past year we have been very proud to feature the best
into this photography issue. Because the best thing about surf photography is that we do not have to explain things. Wherever there is light, there is photography. Both philosophically and literally. And if you ask us which photos are our favorites? That’s easy. The ones our photographers are going to bring us tomorrow. -Editor-
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PORTFOLIO PETE FRIEDEN: THE FACE OFF STILL THE ONE
TIDE CHART:
COVER: For the photography issue photographer Liquid Barrel turned his lens toward Marlon Gerber’s very expressive moment on a day when the rivermouth broke through at Keramas. Known mostly for his water work, Liquid Barrel can still murder it from behind a tripod. Photography by Liquid Barrel
A Pete Frieden North Shore Portfolio
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And keep in mind that every single one of these 26 surfers is a hungry, red-hot, sponsored pro. This kind of surfing is beyond aggression. This is the realm of single minded, totally focused ego.
Though well behaved, this year on the North Shore featured the most high pressure line-ups in history. With the great equalizer of high performance surfboards, comes a tougher task to stand out. Whether or not you are up to it is not a question, it’s an imperative.
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t was a kindler, gentler North Shore season than ever before. Some accredited it to the inevitable fact that John John Florence was going to earn his second world title, at home, on the golden sands of his backyard and in the familiar barrels of his Backdoor. And we do mean his backdoor. Kelly, out of generosity it seems, has handed John John the pink slip to the place. And John John is firmly at the
wheel. Ten and two. Still, others thought the gentler season was due to the consistent high performance surf that suited the fledgling WCT nominees to the tee. Easing them into the hierarchy. The acid test of Waimea was for another time. Or maybe, it was said, the high number of sunny days in the middle of winter eased the pressure. Or maybe it is all the luxury lodging these days. Long gone are the days when
The total involvement with the water itself is becoming hard to believe. What’s next? Underwater maneuvers? Felipe Toledo, becoming one with Rocky Point.
World Champion Rabbit Bartholomew had to sleep in a shaping bay and treat his infected reef cuts with Pine-Sol disinfectant for floors. Or maybe, some thought, maybe all the grumpy people are just getting getting older and mellower. One pundit even cited that the best herb in history was in circulation. And that’s saying a hell of alot, all things considered in that part of the world. But the fact remains that
Italian Champion Leonardo Fioravanti. The only way to handle pressure is to apply it.
the country will always be the country, and our tribe will always gather for the annual pilgrimage no matter what. Regardless of all the modernization, heading due north to “Da’ country” will always be an evolving family reunion. A pageantry. Our glory. And for those who partake, really partake, another season to experience the defining moments of their surfing lives.
World Champion John John Florence. A hammer against Pipeline’s anvil.
There is so much more to deal with on the North Shore than mere drop-ins. Try near misses with Jet ski’s like this one. Mikey Wright, staying the course at Backdoor
With more power comes more speed comes more possibilities. Mikey Wright and his new quantum leap. Photographer Pete frieden tells us Mikey made this.Not surprising considering the family Mikey comes from. Hawaii will always remain the acid test for performance.
On an absolutely huge day at Lance’s rights, with the swell lined up perfectly and with the waves staying open all the way to the channel, gargantuan tubes were the order of the day. As were life threatening wipe-outs. Photographer Liquid Barrel describes swimming among these waves was like dodging artillery. Tatsuya Fukagawa looking for a foxhole. 24
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Photography by Liquid Barrel
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et us never forget that the Mentawai Islands and her magnificient waves lay in wait for us all. Haunting us. Like a monster under the bed, she is always on the edge of our consciousness. Ready to gobble us up in her life changing waves. And though she gives thousands of us our best fireside stories, here is her story. Of just who she is.
From the Encyclopedia of Surfing:
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ocated 75 miles off the west coast of the Indonesian island of Sumatra, scant degrees below the equator; the Mentawai Islands are considered to be the world’s richest wave zone. The 200-mile-long Mentawais consist of four main islands, Siberut (a national preserve), Sipura, North Pagai, and South Pagai, along with dozens of smaller islets, most of which are populated by animistic tribesmen. The May-toSeptember dry season is the best time for surf in the Mentawai, as the islands receive frequent four to six-foot waves generated from storms tracking across the Indian Ocean’s Roaring 40s and inexhaustible two to four-foot waves from smaller, closer storms. The October-to-April wet season brings smaller waves and intermittent stormy weather. Average daytime air and water temperatures remain in the low ‘80s all year. The Mentawaian surf takes shape along the dozens of perfectly tapered coral-lined lava reefs around the islands. Two of the area’s best-known breaks are Lance’s Rights, a shifting, tubing, dangerously shallow wave located at the south end of Sipura; and Macaroni’s, a mechanical left tube that has been described as the world’s best high-performance wave. Reef cuts and scrapes are the most common Mentawaian surf hazard; malaria is a risk for anyone on land. Australian teenage surfers Scott Wakefield, Chris Goodnow, and Tony Fitzpatrick, all from Sydney, boated out to the Mentawais in 1980, camped for five weeks, surfed more than a half-dozen breaks, including Macaroni’s, and didn’t tell anybody about their discovery for years. Australian salvage diver and boat captain Martin Daly, working out of Jakarta, began trolling through the Mentawais in 1989 and 1990, and over the next year rode a handful of world-class surf spots, including what would later be called Lance’s Rights, named after New South Wales surf traveler Lance Knight, who was dropped off on Sipura one month prior to Daly’s arrival in 1990.
Late afternoon brings movie star lighting out to the reef at Lance’s Rights. Giving the wave and the surfers an even more jaw-dropping appearance. With the right surfers in the water, it becomes a surf photographers fantasy. Lucas De Nardi weaving around the boils through the sunset’s celestial glow.
She’s still out there. But the Mentawai experience, second only to the North Shore when it comes to media saturation, is not the domain of the pro surfer. The common man rules here by sheer number aboard the fleet of charter boats that ply her reefs. And this has made for a very uncommon experience. A place where the everyman can live the fantasy, get the best waves of his life and come home feeling a hero. The Mentawai will always be an overload to the senses. And unlike other over-run surf tourist areas, thanks to the environmentally minded Captains of her industry, she is only getting better and healthier by the year.
The following year, after Daly began telling others about the newly discovered surfing paradise, a group of famous surfers, including former world champions Tom Carroll and Martin Potter, visited the Mentawai. The Carroll/Potter visit went all but unreported in the surf press, but word was spreading nonetheless, and by 1994 the first surf charter tour boats were taking groups of surfers out to the Mentawai on 12-day excursions. More breaks were discovered and photographers and videographers began feeding a stream of ravishing Mentawaian images to the surf media. The surf charter tour outfits, primarily Great Breaks International and the Surf Travel Company, began looping constantly from Sumatra to the Mentawais during the dry season, while sparring among themselves for exclusive reef-use rights and engaging in endless political dealings with Indonesian officials and politicians. By the early 2000s, as many as 30 surf charter boats were circulating through the Mentawais, carrying an aggregate total of hun-
dreds surfers at any given time. A berth on a 12-day budget charter boat, can cost about $3,000; slots on a plush air- conditioned cruiser cost as much as $6,000. A number of land-based surf camps were in operation as of the mid 2000s. The Bali nightclub terrorist attacks in 2002 brought a steep reduction in the number of surfers traveling to Indonesia, and it was reported that up to a third of Mentawai charter boats were temporarily taken out of service. Ocean Pacific surfwear and Surfer magazine sponsored a $102,000 “floating” pro surf contest in the Mentawais in 2000, won by Mark Occhilupo of Australia and Rochelle Ballard of Hawaii. Both surfers shared their prize money with the other competitors. Sports journalist Rob Story, covering the Op/Surfer event for Outside magazine, was impressed by the perfect surf and the magnificent performances by the pros, but described the general push into the Mentawai as “good old surf imperialism.” Oc-
chilupo won the Op/Surfer event again in 2001, along with Hawaiian Keala Kennelly. Though the ASP world tour has yet to hold a significant contest in the Mentawais, the Indonesian Surf Championship tour began holding events in the island chain in 2011. Eight breaks in the Mentawais made the cut in Surfer’s 2011 list of the “100 Best Waves in the World,” with the epic right tubes of Rifles coming in at #6. The Mentawai Island experience remains to this day a rite of passage for any serious surfer.
Aerials in the Mentawai, particularly at Lances Rights, are very perilous act. The reefs below her waves are very much alive and hungry for blood. The slightest touch will paint you. Rio Waida, taking his chances at low tide Lance’s.
OLD GOLD:
BUT STILL WORTH ITS WEIGHT A JASON CHILDS RETROSPECTIVE
JASON CHILDS TELLS THE STORIES BEHIND THE PHOTOS: “This is Andy Irons surfing one of the biggest and best days I have ever seen at Keramas. Rasta and some other Billabong team riders were out, but they were not in the same league on this day with Andy. Andy loved Keramas. It was one of his favorite waves in the world. He surfed it like no others can or have to this day. Andy said it reminded him of surfing a wave back in his home island of Kauai. Riding a 6’1 for late drops under heaving lips”.
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Andy, 2006
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ike an A-List war photographer, Jason Childs has been embedded in the Indonesian surfing scene since day one. His relationships within the industry and his connections with top pro surfers has kept him on the top of the heap for his entire career. Part technician and all artist, Childs was able to bring his experience as a front line newspaper photo journalist to the rarefied air of the elite surfing scene. Dependable as the sun, he has never failed to bring back defining images that have set the platinum standard of surf photography. Recently, he came across some unpublished gems from his adventures and we were lucky enough to have him send them our way. Here are just a few from his archives. Archives that represent the evolution of modern surfing itself.
Jason Childs on his quiver: “These days, It’s not what equipment you shoot with, it’s what you do with it”.
Mick, 2015
“Mick Fanning charging on a Rip Curl Search Mission in Indonesia a few years back. Four days of travel and two days of surfing. The modern pro surf trip. That’s Luke Hynd on the inside, getting a few tips from the Master”.
Timmy, 2003
Timmy Turner, Apocalypse, the cover of Surfer Magazine. Ok, this one was published, but its fun to point out here that Timmy’s casual pose in the face of tremendous peril had alot to do with the amount of beer he had been drinking all that afternoon. Still, it remains one of the most unforgettable photos to ever come out of Java.
MATT WILKINSON IS A BELIEVER: “It’s pretty exciting to think that right now the wave pool has just become real, the Olympics thing is happening and the changes to the tour are as well. It’s the most exciting thing that’s ever happened in surfing…” -Matt Wilkinson-
With every carve, Matt Wilkinson gives hope to the everyday surfer. Not a surfer that electrifies, but one that does “electritry”. Though his surfing can be thought of as fairly pedestrian within the pro ranks, his consistently high rankings speak volumes for his passion and performance. 4 0 SURFTIME
THE WAVE POOL DREAMS OF THE 5TH BEST SURFER IN THE WORLD By Luke Kennedy
Matt Wilkinson. No rainy days ahead for this happy man.
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ith his quads still burning from runs at the Surf Ranch, Wilko spoke openly about the wave pool experience and suggested that a complete restructure of the WSL is definitely going ahead. What was the wave pool scoring experience like? You couldn’t get a big score unless you got to the end. And that’s a chore. The wave is so long that you take off, do three big turns, get a long barrel. If you mess up they can’t give you any more than a five. If you were able to surf four waves and one of them counted for the win, that would be the way to go. What was the delay time between waves in the pool? Every four minutes, but on the practice days we were doing every three minutes. That’s three minutes from the start of your wave and your wave goes for a minute, so you’ve got two minutes of waiting time till the next one. If you finish riding a wave, it’s like riding a wave from Snapper to Greenmount. Long, long ride. You gotta be fit. So the pool settles relatively quickly? Yes. But you wouldn’t want your gap between waves any shorter because you finish your wave and you’re taking deep breaths and trying to get your legs sorted. Does is it lend itself to progressive surfing? Yeah, it’s plenty powerful. The main problem with airs is that the right’s pretty strong offshore when the wind comes up and the last section’s pretty sucky, so they’re kind of stuck doing alley oops because you can’t do an air reverse into the flats there, it’s just too gnarly. Then the left was great for airs, but because it was onshore the barrel was so hard to make that barely anyone really finished a wave. Wind patterns actually affect the conditions in the pool? Yeah, the winds are basically the same every day in that area. Straight offshore, I guess. Not sure what to call them because your 100 miles from the Ocean in farmland USA.
Though he says that aerials are tough at the Surf Ranch wave pool, Wilkinson is no slouch in the real thing. If he can get his aerial act down for the 2018 season, he will be assured to keep his spot in the top five.
Perhaps Wilikinson’s most underrated talent is his tuberiding in waves from 2 to 10 feet. His low stance, clean lines and retro back leg make it look so easy that the judges quite often underscore him. It should be interesting to see how he fares backside in the 2018 event at the surf Ranch. He is the first surfer to come out and publicly say he taking the pool very seriously.
Do you think it will suit some surfers more than others? I don’t think so. It’s not like you’re doing airs all along it; it’s not like Filipe will just flog everyone. You carve, the barrel’s great, but you’ve got to ride it well. The barrels fast and you’ve gotta get deep. On John’s best one he got barreled and then instead of just staying in it he came out and did a big wrap and came back and just pulled back up under it and that was outrageous. So you can choose to take different lines? Yeah and then when you’re in the barrel you can choose how deep you are going to be. But it’s obviously more risky in a comp situation. Is there variation between waves? The wave does change a bit; there are ones that are a bit bigger and ones that have a white-washy bit. So if it’s an inch deeper when the thing starts, the wave will be three or four inches taller and if it’s shallower it’s slabbier. You still got to get it wired. Do you think they have the capacity to crank it up to big, slabbing barrels? It doesn’t really need to be any slabbier, the barrel’s as thick as a chunky one at Rainbow Bay. In the pit you’re on the foamball, it’s probably more powerful than Snapper. Is it big enough for someone like Jordy? The right is, but the left was harder with the wind. Some would go small and some would go a bit weird. Funny, everyone who didn’t get invited was crying, so there was an email sent around explaining why. It just said the World Champs plus the top seeds and also Kanoa because they had the Japanese Olympic Committee there and he’s a huge hero in Japan. If you didn’t get the invite you would have been upset? Yeah. But obviously there were going to be top surfers that didn’t get the invite. Remember, it wasn’t a CT, it was just a little test run. You can’t be angry at anyone. Man, this is the future we are dealing with here.
Again, that everday surfer that has made it to number one in the rankings. Twice. Giving hope to all the Aussie battlers one wave at a time. His secret? Matt Wilkinson’s exuberance becomes a very dangerous element in a heat. Onlookers feel it, fans love it and so do the judges. It just feels so damn real.
IN HIS OWN WORDS, SURFTIME’S ITALIAN PHOTOGRAPHER WEIGHS IN:
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believe it is to shoot with the fisheye.This is my favorite lens and that’s what I love most because it gives me some incredible emotions when I use it. But there are many days when I prefer to use other types of lenses. While I see 95% of photographers who always use the fisheye in all conditions. This is an important lens to have in certain wave conditions, but it is not a lens to use every time. It is limited.
Definitely there are many more surf photographers. More people are motivated. There has been an increase in the number of surfing magazines and web sites, which has generated more opportunity but less money. In addition, with the supremacy of digital photography theb whole scene has become much more automated. Today’s Water Housing is lighter and stronger. Thanks to technology, companies that manufacture these housings have improved the quality so much to make them safer. No one wants to lose a camera to seawater. Today, I can change more settings on my camera compared to a few years ago. In addition, new housings are increasingly similar to the shape of the camera body without having the excessive footprint of the old ones. Currently I photograph in the Mediterranean, Atlantic Ocean, Pacific Ocean and Indian Ocean. I love photographing in any Ocean as long as there is warm water. I do not like to feel that shiver of frost on my back and I do not like to be covered with neoprene when I swim. I think that Go-Pro has made a great effort to invent and perfect its product. There has been a great revolution from the first GoPro 1 series to the current Go-Pro Hero 6. I find it incredibly profitable and useful. I personally use it exclusively for videos. I have never used photographs made with grabs from a Go-Pro. I say that thanks to Go-Pro. I was able to perfect my video days at sea behind that camera. And having both video and stills is an amazing thing. I have never used Go-Pro photos, no, but that does not mean I never will. Photos 48
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made with my Canon and photos with the Go-Pro...there is a big difference. The GoPro is still very far from being able to print quality frame grabs. Lets just say I feel the Go-Pro is a good product and find it very useful for now, but it will be some time before it outclasses a still camera. The biggest impact of the Go-pro is that it has turned every surfer into a videographer. And surfers they are doing such a good job of it. They are using creative and different framing, some by hand, some hold it in their mouth, they work great on helmets and surfboards. Garut had a wicked looking mount off the side of his board at G-land. I think it was called a cobra. Those images were incredible. I also believe that the Go Pro has really pushed surfers deeper and deeper into barrels. That little camera has had a big influence on performance and progression. Much more than still cameras. But the beauty of a great still photograph will never be surpassed. Both in seeing and feeling. That is what is so great about surf photography. I am having as much of a thrill as the surfers themselves. Surf photography is the most advanced sports photography on earth and I am proud to be part of it.
Surfing is free…but it is not for free. Liquid Barrel stands amid the minimum amount of equipment its takes to operate at his level. It ain’t as easy as it looks…or as cheap.
I love to photograph when the light is soft and I love capturing photos at sunset and dawn because the colors of the sky are warmer and the wave acquires colorful colors and the water feels thicker. Plus I can play with the shot speeds to give different effects to my photos. To take pictures from the water you have to have a very good relationship between a surfer and the photographer. This is important. To make big shots you have to have a feeling between both of you. You have to trust each other to not have collisions. Those three fins become weapons in the water. Often surfers go a few inches from my face or my neck and a small mistake could be fatal. But there must also be great respect because surfers need photographers to document their skill and photographers need surfers to publish their work. We all need each other. My advice? What you need is to surprise yourself. And give the best of yourself as a photographer. The other advice I give surfers is to never look at me. Because if you look at me, you lose your feeling with the energy and flow of the wave. And you are twice as likely to fall or smash into me. I do not know a photographer who I feel prevails over all the others. Because each of us has a unique style and our own tricks. I am looking forward to growing and trying different styles.To try to be a more complete photographer. Like I said, I take alot of pride with me into the water. And every day I wake up wanting to shoot, shoot, shoot. It is a wonderful and healthy way to live.
Liquid Barrel has a knack for technical perfection mixed with genuine emotion. This shot of Diah Rahayu Dewi being the perfect example. This was not an advertising shoot, but a very candid photo of Diah entering the water. By getting lower than his subject, Liquid Barrel instinctively captures both the scope and the elegance of the moment.
I do not have a specific name because my favorite surfer is the one who when it comes to making pictures together is not like doing free surfing. But the one that waits for the best waves and avoids losing unnecessary energies for the photographer, making the photographer swim around like a table tennis ball. Usually my favorite surfer is the one who respects these small rules and is not afraid to take the biggest and best waves. Like many others I believe that Kelly Slater is the best surfer in the world. My dream would be to be able to find myself photographing him on an epic day. I’ve met him, but never got the chance to run with him. As I was saying before, there are more and more photographers and there are more
and more changes in the technological aspect of new cameras. All this leads to having as many identical photos but also a greater percentage of different photos. However, we will see what changes come with the future. All of this also depends very much on the big camera companies. My future is to continue to grow at the photographic level. I’m sure growth will never stop because photography is too varied and in a continuous technology change. Technology is the great help to all of us photographers, giving us a margin of error much wider and making our photos always precise and spectacular. I find myself fortunate to do what I do because I am the one who wanted to engage in this life. I have a great passion for the sea that is being transmit-
ted to me by my family and and friends and surfers and that continues to grow. I respect the sea and I fear the sea at the same time and my future is undoubtedly with the ocean wherever I may be.
It would be interesting to measure a water photographers swimming abilities in an Olympic laboratory. They would have to be the best rough water swimmers in the world. And photographer Liquid Barrel spends as much time in the tube as his subjects. We wonder if the Olympic committee could even grasp this ability.
BRUCE BROWN’S ENDLESS RIDE 1937-2017 By Sam George
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s the surf world mourns the passing of Bruce Brown much attention will be drawn to his reputation as a documentary filmmaker. His 1966 masterpiece “The Endless Summer” has long been considered one of best documentary films ever made. It was the documentary box office champ until 1994’s Hoop Dreams release. But having written and directed a number of documentary films myself, including Hollywood Don’t Surf, which examined 50 years of attempts to make a successful mainstream movie about surfing, I ask that Bruce Brown be celebrated not just for entertaining documentary films like Barefoot Adventure but for writing and directing the most successful feature surf film of all time: The Endless Summer. That’s right. The Endless Summer, which, comprised of so many contrived sequences, hardly qualifies as a documentary at all. Yet skillfully employs the three most crucial elements of any feature film: plot, cast, and script. Brown, in constructing his narrative, effectively applied this time-honored “Hollywood” template to what previously had been conventional documentary material. The plot, centered on the audacious concept of following the summer around the globe, was brilliant in its simplicity. Try to explain the essential allure of surfing to a mainstream audience? Good luck. But disguise the same aesthetic in the context of chasing summer around the world and you’ve got a concept even the landlocked 5 4 SURFTIME
people could relate to, and did, judging by the film’s wild mid-western box office success in the USA. Then there was the film’s stars, one goofy-foot, one regular-foot. And if you think it was by accident that Brown cast dark-haired Robert August as the straight man and blond Mike Hynson as the prankster, think again. Finally there’s The Endless Summer script, key to the film’s success. Keep in mind “script” doesn’t necessarily mean dialogue. Consider two of the film’s most memorable story points, the South African hitchhiking bit and, of course, the iconic Cape St. Francis discovery. Brown’s feel for narrative rather than documentary momentum was impressive, as illustrated in the South African hitch-hiking ruse and the dramatic dune-climbing reveal leading to the completely fabricated Cape St. Francis climax. Also the fact that he would splice together two waves claiming they were one impossibly long ride. This observation isn’t meant to diminish the sequence, it is the most influential six-and-a-half minutes of surfing footage ever presented to the world, but rather to recognize Brown’s ability as a screenwriter. And his eye for creating drama within the film itself. “I couldn’t help but think of the hundreds of years these waves have been breaking here, but until this day, no one had ever ridden one. Think of the thousands of waves that went to waste, and the waves that are going to waste right now at Cape St. Francis.” Hardly documentary words, considering none of it was accurate, or true at all. Absolutely brilliant, however, when viewed through the prism of feature screenwriting. No, The Endless Summer is no documentary film, but an innovative feature, effectively combining plot, cast and script in a manner no surf movie since has ever been able to manage. As such, Brown’s passing should also include a new appreciation for his skills beyond the confines of conventional documentary filmmaking. A renewed celebration, long overdue, of the gift of his imagination that he shared with generations of wave riders the world over, inspiring us all to seek new horizons and live the adventure for ourselves.
Mike Hynson and Robert August at Cape St. Francis during the seminal sequence of The Endless Summer. The one that ignited the surfing wanderlust and the discoveries of our surfing globe of today. Never mind that this spot was a movie set-up, just a stone’s throw down the coast from Jeffery’s Bay. And despite the name of the movie, that the water temp was a chilly 15 degrees. Still, the standard was set, and the rest of us have met its bold challenge ever since.
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north shore veteran since John John Florence was a toddler, Photographer Pete Frieden has seen and shot it all. The following is a stream of consciousness that he wrote for Surftime Magazine: “Cutting edge photography comes when you work with very good surfers, in good conditions , with the best equipment . Of course there are more photographers around now, with less money to go around, so that’s a bummer. Water housing’s haven’t changed much, people are just risking more to put those housing to work. Its dangerous. I am surprised there are not more horrible injuries. The Indian Ocean is where you want to shoot from the water, because the big swells are more groomed and perfect in the Indian Ocean, and not as scary as the Pacific. This Go-Pro world we are in…it has created some pretty incredible moments. They’re everywhere. Hard to believe they are going bankrupt. But a Go-Pro mount can really screw up a beautiful image. I shoot Go Pro Video, but still, my favorite moment is when I know I got the shot I wanted to get with my still camera. That is really satisfying. It takes a good relationship with a surfer to get the most genuine photos, especially in the water. If you know each other, the shoot is like a family affair and everybody does their absolute best. That’s why young should surfers should listen very closely to the photographers on what is the best way to shoot a session. And come to think of it, the photographer should listen to the young surfer too, he might have new ideas. My favorite shot ever did not even have a surfer on it. That golden wave Mentawai shot. Wow. It’s like that shot took itself. And even though line-up shots are important to the whole surf experience, they give us our dreams, I still have alot of favorite surfers to shoot. And with the level of surfing these days…its getting easier to get great moments. At this stage, I have shot every surfer that I like, but I am really looking forward to the next generation of surfers. The future of surf photography will be frame grabs from super high def video cameras. We will just video the whole wave and every moment will be captured. It will be either really interesting to see how it comes down, or really boring. Me, I’m just gonna stay on top of the best equipment and shoot and surf when I want to. It’s still magic out there.
Gabriel Medina, Banzai Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii.
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The Sacred Challenge, Waimea Bay, Oahu, Hawaii.
Rookie Yago Dora, Rocky point.
Felipe Toledo and friend, Off the Wall.
World Champion Tyler Wright, Ehukai Beach.
2 time World Champion John John Florence and friend, Banzai Pipeline.
World Champion Gabriel Medina, Banzai Pipeline.
Rookie Barron Mamiya, Off the wall.
3 time World Champion Mick Fanning, Banzai Pipeline.
Jack Robinson, Keramas, Bali, Indonesia.
Mikey Wright, Log Cabins.
Kolohe Andino, Sunset Beach.
11 Time World Champion Kelly Slater, Backdoor Pipeline, Oahu, Hawaii.
STILL THE ONE:
DEDI GUN IS JUST GETTING STARTED Photography by Liquid Barrel
Still fit as a teenager, Dedi Gun is still as stoked as one too. Homegrounds, Sumbawa January 2018.
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“His eyes will be filled with wonder at what hangs above his head in the sky�. Photography by Mick Curley
With a re-newed commitment to his surfing and a new fitness program, Dedi Gun is once again turning heads with his pyrotechnic backside attack. Recently he showed up at Lakey Peak with a new Quiver of boards and proceeded to blow minds. Lakey Peak, January 2018.
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edi Gun escaped his highland village of Dompu on Sumbawa at age nine. Right after his ritual circumcision. An event where raw bird’s eggs were placed in his mouth to keep him from screaming. On that day, he began his great walk to the sea. Setting out on foot with a worn machete and an old plastic Coke bottle full of water. Dedi walked overland for days, eating fruit from the trees, navigating by the landscape and sleeping under the stars. After an encounter with a six foot spitting cobra, Dedi tired of walking overland and managed to drop out of a tree onto the luggage that was strapped on top of a passing tourist bus. When he awoke the bus was empty and parked at Lakey Peak. One look at the Ocean was all it took. Dedi Gun swore never to leave. And despite his far flung travels, Dedi never has. In his heart carrying a faithfulness to the wave that gave him his life. But throughout it all, Dedi, now 31 years old and a father who still turns heads evry timehe paddles out, has maintained his humbleness. An odd, compassionate alone-
ness. He remains, despite the adoration of anyone he comes in contact with, a solitary figure. And smart as a whip. At Lakey Peak and in Dompu, the village elders often come to him for advice. He is considered an oracle, what with the exotic Scandinavian women he shows up with from time to time. And he is filled with the dreams of a survivor. Dreams like getting the Sumbawan government to protect Lakey Peak as a national surfing reserve. And dreams of building a traditional Sumbawan longhouse for the next surfing generation of surfers from Lakey Peak. A dormitory of sorts, and Dedi the spirit guide, who will lead generations into the future. You will hear and see all of this from Dedi Gun on a star-sprung night at Lakey Peak. On the beach, he will be standing by some driftwood, staring up at the Milky Way as he quietly speaks of things in perfect English. His eyes will be filled with wonder at what hangs above his head in the sky. He will talk about the “view” of life; that if you can see things, important things, natural things, then you will be part of the “view” and that
you will be happy. He will have built a small fire from the driftwood for the younger boys who will be sleeping on the beach this night and the glow of the coals will light up Dedi’s heavy features as naturally as an old tree. You will hear Dedi Gun and you will see him like this and you will not be able to imagine a more connected surfer on earth. A more connected human on earth. Connected to something so vast and so special and so real and so brave. And with that thought in your mind, the great Dedi Gun will shake out a sandy, moldering blanket, curl up next to his fire and fall asleep on the beach as he first did here 22 years ago as a boy all alone in the world. And he will find sleep as he listens to the foaming waves, to the soft clicking of hooves from the nearby grazing wild ponies, and to the sing-song laughter of children coming from around the pool table at Fatmah’s cafe. Knowing that he has a whole lot of party to go. Just thirty one years old, knowing he is just hitting his stride.
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G A L L E R Y HOT. US. NOW. PARADISE. Although Mason Ho seems to be having the most fun of any surfer on earth, he still knows how to put himself in very serious situations. His performances this year at Pipeline were stellar, reminiscent of his old man’s dominance in the 80’s. An expert at loading the Pipeline rifle, Mason was shot out of the barrel ten times a day. Photography by Pete Frieden
This is Liki from Lakey. The next phenom to come out of Sumbawa’s favorite wave zone. Liki has been working on his airs in the small stuff and charging both the rights and the lefts at the peak on big days. Only nine years old, he has spent more time in the barrel than most of us will in a lifetime. If this kid can keep his act together, he’s got some incredible times ahead. Photography by Liquid Barrel
Seek and ye shall find. There is plenty of party to go out there in Indonesia. Secret spots around every corner. Tai Graham, neighbor island. Despite the two camera’s...he’ll never tell. Photography by PJ.
With an approaching rain squall comes this otherworldly lighting, adding an elegance to the scene. Blerong Dharmaputra, launching his solo act as graceful as a dancer on this magic afternoon. Photography by Liquid Barrel
FEATURING . HURLEY & INSIGHT
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MIRAGE MICK FANNING REACT 21” PRICE: 699.000 IDR MIRAGE MAX FOCUS 21” PRICE: 699.000 IDR TRANSFER TEE PRICE: 349.000 IDR F-LIGHT 2.0 SURF PACK PRICE: 1.699.000 IDR F-LIGHT POSSE HYDRO PRICE: 1.499.000 IDR MID DUFFLE MIDNIGHT PRICE: 599.000 IDR
IS15719004 - RED (CAP) DUMB UNICORN CAP PRICE: 199.000 IDR IS711015 - BLK (T-SHIRT) POLAROID LOGO TEE PRICE: 299.000 IDR ILS791004 - WHT IN BASIC TEE PRICE: 199.000 IDR ILS719501 - CRM AMPHIBIAN BACKPACK PRICE: 649.000 IDR IS711502 - WHT COCONUT SWING TEE PRICE: 299.000 IDR ILS794015 - BLK MANDOLIN DRESS PRICE: 349.000 IDR
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HOLBROOK METAL MTTGNMTL W/ PRIZMBLKPOL PRICE: 4.399.000 IDR FROGSKINS™ LITE PRICE: 2.299.000 IDR Enduro 30L 2.0 PRICE: 1.299.000 IDR EDDIE PRICE: 599.000 IDR SURF TEE RASHGUARD PRICE: 599.000 IDR O SHORT PRICE: 659.000 IDR
BLOK RESIN EQYBS03742-BMM6 PRICE: 799.000 IDR CRYPT SCALLOP EQYBS03823-KVJ6 PRICE: 799.000 IDR ZIGZAG BLOCK EQYBS03830-BRQ6 PRICE: 799.000 IDR HEATWAVE BLOCK EQYBS03834-CPH6 PRICE: 799.000 IDR ELECTRIC HIPPY EQYBS03837-CPH6 PRICE: 799.000 IDR POPLINE EQYBS03839-BNC6 PRICE: 699.000 IDR
PLACE REVIEW
THE LAWN: OBVIOUSLY THE PLACE TO BE.
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estled right on the beach with an unobstructed view of Canggu’s spectacular sunsets, The Lawn has quickly become a favorite haunt for locals, expats and visitors alike. Only a stones throw from the surf, Tai Graham has created a boutique beach lounge with a fun vibe showcasing a venue that effortlessly blends into the local environment. The Lawn is the perfect place to sit down picnic style on the grass with comfortable straw mats. Or you can lounge on the daybeds or on one of the beach chairs close to the pool while sipping on one of
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The Lawn’s signature cocktails as the sun sets into the Indian Ocean. And while your at it, check out the Top Deck, a fantastic new addition that rises above the venue, providing a panoramic view of all that Canggu has to offer. Whether it is a group lunch or a romantic dinner, the mouth-watering menu of The Lawn offers everything from lunchtime share plates to a full dinner service featuring a mix of international flavors and local twists. And the cocktail list has been carefully created from the finest liquors and ingredients that truly embody the “spirit” of
The Lawn. Even though the Indian Ocean and the sunsets are the star players, great pride has gone into The Lawn’s soundtrack too. With live acts and DJs keeping things in the groove right through to closing time. And don’t miss Friday’s at The Lawn, the perfect time to unwind with your friends and enjoy your favorite cocktail, wine, draft beer and delicious food. Whether you’ve had a run of tropical adventures or a busy week of living the island dream, The Lawn is your place to celebrate it all. See you there!
RESTAURAN REVIEW
RESTAURAN REVIEW
RYOSHI AND SAKANAYA BETTER THAN EVER!
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yoshi and Sakanaya resto’s have long set the standard for sushi and Japanese food here in Bali. And now, they’ve become even better. With Ryoshi still proudly serving all their delectable Japanese dishes using
only fresh, local ingredients and still cooking with Live hot Jazz performances every Monday, Wednesday and Friday night. And great news over at Sakanaya is the addition of Non-GMO vegetarian and raw food cui-
sine added to their menu. Both restaurants, already dining institutions on the island, looked locked and loaded to be bringing us the best in dining experiences for years to come. Lucky us.
SHOP REVIEW
ONBOARD STORE CANGGU IS FOR EVERYONE!
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o it’s no surprise the latest surf shop to open its doors to the public boasts a range of surfboards catering to surf city. Onboard Industries was established in 1986 and operating from its Headquarters in Mona Vale NSW on the East coast of Australia. Shortly thereafter Onboard Store became the go to spot for Channel Islands, Chris Christenson, Haydn Lewis and Catch Surf, while retailing the best surf and hard goods equipment in the market to Average Joes. “What we’re trying to do at Onboard is have every style of board that caters to all surfers; longboards, fishes, single fins and high performance shortboards,” says, Onboard Store’s Charlie Stambo. “We want to offer all varieties of surfing. Not just your WSL lover but the guy who surfs on the weekend or the local you see in the line up every day. We have a strong focus on surf culture, from the books we stock to the labels that line the racks.”
SUNSET SURF SHOP OPENS DOORS! Signaling the return of the hard core surf shop, the new Sunset Surf Shop on Jalan Sunset in Bali is every serious surfers dream. The go-to shop for Hayden Shapes and JS high performance surfboards and every accessory you would ever need whether you are planning an expedition or just going surfing in your own backyard. The shop also features the NATIVE surfboard brand out of the Gold Coast. Shapes that are custom designed for Indonesian waves, they are already earning a loyal following. This two story surf emporium has Future fins, FCS, Quiksilver Boardshorts and tees, OTIS sunglasses and more. And with a walk through shop that faces two streets, parking is a snap. The place is a must see. Check it out the next time you are serious about your surfing.
FREE VOLCOM GIVEAWAY! As an Indonesian, I was so proud to read of Dede Suryana and his efforts to help his local area from pollution and development. It has inspired me to do the same thing. We have a beautiful country and it is up to Indonesians to keep it that way. We cannot wait for other people to do it. We must do it ourselves. Thank you Surftime and Dede Suryana for reminding me. Agus Semantik, Canggu Agus, Surftime is also proud of Dede. A great reminder of how we can keep this place clean and healthy and happy. Thank you for your letter, please except this Volcom adventure Backpack prize package for caring enough to send us a letter. Right on.
JAVA
Jabodetabek: PT.Gagan Indonesia (Ipanema), PT.Sukses Sinar Abadi (NIXON), PT.Exhibition Network Indonesia, PT. Indonesia AirAsia, PT.Harindotama Mandiri (OP & Redsand), Pola Grade, PT.Coca - Cola Distribution Indonesia, BEAM GLOBAL ASIA PTE LTD, PT. Amerta Indah Otsuka (Pocari Sweat), Point Break Bekasi, Point Break Blok M, Point Break Karawaci, Point Break Kelapa Gading, Point Break Serang, Point Break Taman Anggrek, Point Break Aeon Tanggerang, Djournal Cilandak town square, J.co Cilandak town square, Brew&co Cilandak Town Square, Kopiluwak Cilandak Town Square, Tapas movida Cilandak Town Square, Excelco Cilandak Town Square, Starbuck Cilandak Town Square, Hagendaz Cilandak Town Square, My Kopi Cilandak Town Square, Conouseour Cilandak Town Square, Liberica Cilandak Town Square, The Coffe Bean Cilandak Town Square, Malay Village Cilandak Town Square, Mangkok putih Cilandak Town Square, Fish&co Cilandak Town Square, Hatten wines Kemang, Coffe corner Kemang, Largo bistro Kemang, Beergarden Kemang, Moe’s place Kemang, The coffe bean Kemang, Kopi seruput Kemang, Chiken chon Kemang, Esia café Kemang, Anomali café Kemang, Signature café Kemang, Café mondo Kemang, Koi Kemang, VIN + Kemang, JCO Kemang, Casa Kemang, Takigawa Kemang, Starbuck Kemang, Pizza marzano Kemang, Kedai kopi 89 Kemang, Daily bread Pondok Indah Mall 1, Kafe betawi Pondok Indah Mall 1, Regal coffe Pondok Indah Mall 1, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Chopstix Pondok Indah Mall 1, Out Back Pondok Indah Mall 1, Starbuck coffee Pondok Indah Mall 1, J.Co Pondok Indah Mall 1, Teritorri Pondok Indah Mall 1, Fatburger Pondok Indah Mall 1, Soursally Pondok Indah Mall 1, Taichan Pondok Indah Mall 2, Regal coffe Pondok
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Indah Mall 2, jitllada Pondok Indah Mall 2, Takigawa Pondok Indah Mall 2, Bakerzin Pondok Indah Mall 2, Hanei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Din tai fung Pondok Indah Mall 2, Shabu tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, The Café Cartel Pondok Indah Mall 2, Radja Ketjil Pondok Indah Mall 2, Fish & co Pondok Indah Mall 2, Suntiang Pondok Indah Mall 2, Coldstone Pondok Indah Mall 2, Seruput Pondok Indah Mall 2, Opasuki Pondok Indah Mall 2, Sushi tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Pizza marzano Pondok Indah Mall 2, Dellifrance Pondok Indah Mall 2, Victoria caffe Pondok Indah Mall 2, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 2, Krispy kreme Pondok Indah Mall 2, Red bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Hagen daz Pondok Indah Mall 2, Kenny Roger Roasters Pondok Indah Mall 2, Killiney Kopitiam Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Grand Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Grand Indonesia, Kenny Roger Roasters Grand Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Grand Indonesia, Fish & co Grand Indonesia, Cali Deli Grand Indonesia, Pizza Marzano Grand Indonesia, Starbuck Coffe Grand Indonesia, Burger King Grand Indonesia, Krispy Kreme Grand Indonesia, The Coffe Bean Grand Indonesia Lt. 1, Hagen Daz Grand Indonesia, Takigawa Grand Indonesia, Djournal Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Plaza Indonesia, Starbuck Plaza Indonesia, The Coffee Bean Plaza Indonesia, Segafredo Plaza Indonesia, Shabu-shabu house Plaza Indonesia, Opus café Plaza Indonesia, Chopstix Plaza Indonesia, Kitchenette Plaza Indonesia, Bakerzin Plaza Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Plaza Indonesia, Red tomato Plaza Indonesia, Fatburger Plaza Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Plaza Indonesia, Yakun Kaya Toast Plaza Indonesia, Bistro baron Plaza Indonesia. Jawa Barat: Point Break Bandung Super Mall, Heaven Skateboard, Asep Kusdinar Pangandaran.
Jawa Timur: Point Break World Tunjungan Plaza II. Jawa Tengah dan DIY Jogyakarta: Point Break Hartono.
KALIMANTAN
Point Break World Banjarmasin, Point Break Pentacity Mall.
SULAWESI
Point Break World Panakkukang, Point Break Gorontalo, Point Break Palopo, Point Break Tantura Palu.
MALUKU
Point Break Mall Ambon City Centre, Point Break Maluku City Mall, Point Break Ternate.
SUMATERA
Point Break Andalas Padang, Point Break Basko, Point Break Batam Centre, Point Break Palembang Square, Point Break World Palembang Icon, Square extension, Point Break Ciputra Pekan Baru, Point Break Sun Plaza Medan, Substance padang.
NUSA TENGGARA BARAT
Royal Surf Mataram, Senggigi, Billabong Gili Trawangan, Blue Surf Gili Trawangan, Hurley Gili Trawangan, Sumbawa (Pesawat Trans Nusa DPS-Dompu, Lakey), Sempiak Vila Selong Belanak, Lombok
BALI
Kuta: Alam Kul-Kul Hotel, Back Door, Balcony Rest & Bar, Huffian, Bali Learn To Surf, Billabong Kuta Square, Bliss Wayan Hotel, Blue Groove, Blue Ocean Shop, Blue Panic I, Blue Panic II, Dragon Office, Dragon Shop, Eikon Bar, G-Land, Halfway Surf, Hard Rock Café, Hard Rock Radio,
Hot Banana, Hurley Kuta Square, Hurley Poppies Lane II, Indodream, Hurley Factory Outlet Simpang Siur, Naruki, Oddyseys Surfing School, Ovault Legian, Papaya Surf, Pro Surf School, PT.Billabong Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Beachwalk, Quiksilver Kuta Square, Quiksilver Premium, Ripcurl Bemo Corner, Ripcurl Kuta Square, Rip Curl Memo, Star Surf, Sunkissed, Surfer Girl, Surfer Girl Office, Surfer Girl PODS, The Pit, Toke, Tubes Bar, Volcom Bemo Corner, Volcom Kuta Square, Yayasan GUS, Bali Niksoma Hotel, BSO, Cozy, Hurley Factory Outlet, Istana Rama Hotel, Kuta Seaview Hotel, Luke Studer Shop, Mercure Hotel, Nero Bali, OZ Radio, POP Hotel, PT.Jarosite (Rip Curl), PT.Sinar Sosro, PT. Transnusa Air Services (TransNusa), Ramayana Hotel, Rip Curl OSO, Rip Curl Sunset Road, Rosso Vivo, Ryosi Restaurant, Starbuck Café Pantai, Take Restaurant, The 101 Legian Hotel, The Stones, TJ’s Restaurant, VI AI PI, Hotel Santika, Blue Wave, Trans Nusa. Tuban: Aston Kuta, Bali Dynasty Hotel, Bamboo Restaurant, Batan Waru Restaurant, Billabong Discovery Mall, Blue Fin, Bubba Gum, Ryoshi, Discovery Hotel, Envy Restaurant, Golden Lotus, Hacienda Restaurant, Holiday Inn Resort, Hurley Discovery Mall, Kuta Lines Discovery Mall, Kuta Paradiso Hotel, Magani Hotel, PT. Volcom Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Discovery Mall, Ramada Bintang Bali, Risata Bali Resort. Legian: Dahui, All Season Hotel, Camankila Hotel, Cibola, Huck Happy Store, Hurley Legian, Jayakarta Hotel,Legian Beach Hotel, Macaroni Bar Bar & Restautant, Ovault Beachwalk, Poco Loco Bar & Rest, PT.Jaya Bersama (Rip Curl Surf School), PT.Quiksilver Indonesia, Quiksilver Café, Quiksilver Legian, Ripcurl
Legian, Ripcurl Melasti, Sky Surf, SWICH Restaurant, Tanaya Bed and Breakfast, The Bokha Hotel, The Granmas Hotel Jl. Legian, Trattoria, Zanzibar Restaurant, Bali Mandira Hotel. Seminyak, Oberoi, Petitenget: Afends, Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Biku Restaurant, Billabong Bintang, Billabong Seminyak, Canggu Deli, Channel Islands, Cocoon Restaurant, DC Seminyak Square, Deus Oberoi, Deus Petitenget, Drifter Shop, Fave Hotel, Hurley Indonesia, Hurley Oberoi, Insight Seminyak, IZE Hotel, Laca-Laca Restaurant, Lanai Restaurant, Made’s Warung Seminyak, Mannekepis Restaurant, Meja Kitchen & Bar, Motel Mexicola Restaurant, Oakley Seminyak, Volcom Shop, Petitenget Restaurant, Potato Head, Puravida Seminyak, Quiksilver Bintang, Quiksilver Oberoi, Quiksilver Petitenget, Red Carpet, Rip Curl Bintang, Rip Curl Seminyak, Rumors Restaurant, Ryosi Restaurant, Single FIN Seminyak, SOHO Restaurant, Surfer Girl Seminyak Square, Tekor Bali Restaurant, The Grandmas Hotel Dyana Pura, The Haven Hotel, Betelnut Restaurant, Black Canyon Seminyak Square, By The Sea Shop, Chandi Restaurant, Dylon Long Bottom, Eat Well Restaurant, Queens Tandor Restaurant, Taco Casa, Miyura Restaurant, Kinky Tiki Bar. Nusa Dua: Nusa Dua Beach Grill, PT.Bali Bijaksana (Oakley) Office, Ovault Nusa Dua.
Sanur, Denpasar: Bali Adventure Tours, Bali Hai Cruise, Batu Jimbar Restaurant, BIMC Hospital, Bir Bintang, Bounty Cruise, Coca-Cola Distribution Bali, CV.Royalindo Pacific (No Fear), G-Xtreme, International SOS, Yoska Surf, Kopi Bali, Ombak Shop, PT. Planet Selancar Mandiri, Red Bull, Rip Curl Sanur, Starbuck Café Sanur, Tiket To the Moon, Tiara Dewata, Soputan, Tiara Dewata Denpasar, Tiara Dewata MonangManing, Tiara Dewata Gatsu, Toko Buku Leny, Kios Rama, Bali Scuba, Ocean Gravity (Bali Diving School), Nova Dive Center, All 4 Diving, Billabong. Canggu: Billabong Batu Bolong, Billabong Canggu, Café di Batu Bolong, Café di Echo Beach, Café di Jalan Uluwatu, Deus Canggu, Hurley Brawa, PT.Deus Ex Machina Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Canggu / Echo Beach, REDZ Surf Boards, Reef Canggu, Hurley Outlet Store Berawa, Seven Shores / 69 Slam, Oldmans Restaurant & Bar, The Lawn. Balianas shop, Loco Shop, Canggu Deli, Swich Brawa, Loko Shop, Brawa Surf Shop, Matcha Cafe Brawa, Nude Cafe Brawa, Onboard Store Batu Bolong, Echo Beach Club Canggu. Tabanan: Toko Buku Sastra Mas. Gianyar: Bali Zoo, Komune Hotel, Bali Safari & Marine Park, SOBEK Lembongan : Billabong Lembongan
SINGAPORE
Carkit Agent (Far East ) Pte Ltd. Uluwatu, Jimbaran: Surfer Paradise Kelan, Drifter Office, Hansel Surfboards, Quiksilver Uluwatu, Single Fin Shop, Single Fin Restaurant, Kacho Rest, Warung Ketty, Warung Lana, White Monkey, PT. Bali Balance, Surf Edge/ Uluwatu Café, Noh by Pison, Nusa Surf, Loko Shop.
MALAYSIA PHILIPPINES
Media Partner ASC (Asian Surfing Championship)
CLOSE OU T:
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s great a surfer as Jamie O’Brien is, and as much as his surfing has set standards of performance excellence on the North Shore, his goofy antics now also hold a historic place. Providing a much needed comic relief during a Hawaiian surf season that can take itself all too seriously. Here, Jamie, on his beloved pink soft top, enjoys his own unique perspective of Jack Robinson during a break in the pressure cooker action of the short winter season. Clearly, a BFF moment in a dog-eat-dog arena.
Photography by Pete Frieden
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Photography by Liquid Barrel
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