The Sewing Box Magazine 10 (english version)

We are a team!

Editor-in-chief for TSB10: Estefanía González. Santa Pazienzia

Management, editing and writing: Anabel García-Plata Roberto Hinojo

Artistic director a and layout: Clara Palomero

On the cover: Lady Desidia Back cover photography:

Translation: Mari Carmen Gutiérrez Vanessa Iglesias

Marketing and advertising Carlos Berges

Distribution: SGEL Pineapple Media (INT)

Address and contact: The Sewing Box Company Avenida República Argentina, 24, 2 41011 Sevilla

@bocrochet

Froofreading: TSBM Team

Advertising: Premiummedia GS

The Sewing Box 10 (El Costurero 16) ©All right reserved.

ISSN 2444-295X Legal Deposit: SE 946-2020

Edited in Seville, Spain by The Sewing Box Company www.thesewingboxmag.com info@thesewingboxmag.com

What does a crochet designer do as a guest editor of a magazine? Well, that was the same question I asked myself when I got this wonderful proposal.

When the TSB team invited me to be the guest editor of one of their issues, it was clear to me that I was going to build my ideal magazine. The one that, as a reader, I’d like to squeeze out from the first page to the last one.

If there’s one thing that fascinates me since I started crocheting in 2014, it’s how a hobby, in this case craft, creates a real community that serves to create bonds beyond crocheting, knitting or embroidering.

Over the years, I’ve met wonderful people, exceptionally talented designers, who make our lives much richer and, of course, more sustainable. There is much to contribute to the planet from our corner of creation.

In this issue I’ve tried to capture these two things, how you can work on being more sustainable from the crafts and how powerful it’s to have in your life a room for any handmade hobby ; because where you least expect it, you can find a community that supports you, where you can share, where you can let off steam. They can be a group of crazy crocheters or, why not, a group of Tejedoras de Sueños (The dream crocheters).

In this, my ideal magazine, you’ll find many different modalities. In knitting we have our cover girl, Carmen García de Mora, accompanied by the two needles of Tricotriu and Beagle Knits. In crochet, we’ll enjoy a lot with The Wool Loop, Tanana Yarns, MamaQuilla and DosPunts. In macramé, your eyes will fall in love with the work of Fruto Samore and on the other hand, Señorita Lylo and I, Santa Pazienzia, we make a collaboration where we join crochet with embroidery.

In amigurumis we have GanchiGurumi and MiTxoko. In upcycling, we have 2nd Funniest Thing and Laura Algarra and in entrepreneurship, we have one of the greatest experts in her field, Mamá, quiero ser blogger (Mom, I want to be a blogger).

Most of the artists who accompany me in this issue have managed to make their passion their profession and from experience I tell you that it’s possible; so if the craft world is really what makes you happy, roll up your sleeves, get on with it and don’t stop until you succeed.

“When there’s a will, there’s a way.”

04

Contents The Sewing Box Magazine 10

Designers

46.

he

06. Beagle Knits 14. Tricotriu 20. Fruto Samore 26. The Wool Loop 32. GanchiGurumi 40. MamaQuilla 46. MiTxoko 54. Tanana Yarns 62. Laura Algarra 68. Señorita Lylo 74. DosPunts 80. 2nd Funniest Thing

Call for talent

86. ShowroomCrochet 88. mariamai

Cover girl

90. Carmen García de Mora

Tips for bloggers

98. Mama, quiero ser blogger

100. Las tejedoras de sueños

102. Extra Pattern: Nieta DeSastre 108. Glossary 110. Illustrator’s gallery

68.

ewi ox

90.

86.

102.

www.ravelry.com/designers/beagleknits

Beagle

06

Knitting

Knits

When two or more knitters meet, what they do is talk about what they’re knitting, what they’ve knitted, what wools they’re using, what pattern they’ve seen out there that has caught their eye, what things they’ve learned or where they got stuck, etc.” And that’s exactly what we can taste in “Coffee with Beagle Knits” precisely to evoke that coffee among passionate knitters. “I started it in June 2019 because some people asked me to do so, besides it became a way to overcome those stereotypes, that shame and be able to talk openly about one of my passions.”

Antonio’s story is full of little discoveries that led him to share what he likes best. So, without great aspirations, he began to create his first patterns and to make them public to see “what would happen”. The result is a small community that follows him and appreciates his first projects. “At the moment it’s not a full-time job, although I spend many hours a day knitting and designing. But, for now, I can’t live from knitting. I haven’t been here very long and it’s normal.

Hopefully in the future I’ll be able to devote myself completely to Beagle Knits.”

Bwa knits

Antonio, a 38-year-old man from Granada, defines himself as a knitter who sits for an official exam. His encounter with needles is a story that begins in childhood and continues into adulthood, when in November 2018 he creates Beagle Knits. This name is inspired by two of his great passions, his dogs Sherlock and Watson and knitting.

He’s a man who knits, this shouldn’t be news, although he acknowledges that it wasn’t easy to “come out” as a knitter. “The truth is that breaking stereotypes has never been my goal, it was simply to make visible what I like, which is to knit. If that’s how I can break them, great!”

In fact, he already knitted as a child, but when he became a teenager he stopped knitting just because of those damn labels. He was embarrassed to knit and have people know he was “doing women stuff.” After a few years he went back to it, but always in secret, without anyone knowing. This changed as he created his knitting pattern brand when he started to “face the music” by showing what he was doing on social media.

We couldn’t enjoy Beagle Knits designs without the podcasts. It was as a result of meeting by chance with accounts of this type, both on YouTube and on Instagram, that Antonio decided to create his own communication channel. “To me, a knitting podcast is like a conversation between knitters.”

His style is very defined by his personal tastes, clothes (shawls, vests and beanies mostly) of classic, simple and elegant cut. “I think that simplicity has a huge beauty, but I would also define my patterns as casual and fun.

The two things can be brought together perfectly, although it’s also true that I don’t like to be pigeonholed and I’m constantly evolving.”

Starting I don’t consider myself an expert in social media at all (or in anything, for that matter), but as a piece of advice I would say to be yourself. If you knit and design what you really like and that with which you identify, you transmit that to people and that’s attractive.

Knitting The design I’m involved in at that moment always becomes my favorite. But I really like the patterns of two Canadian boys: Maxim Cyr (@maxtheknitter) and Vincent Deslandes (@designsbydelz).

Besides “El Chal María”, which is very special to me, the first one I designed and dedicated to my grandmother.

Following I follow a bunch of podcasters and I wouldn’t want to leave anyone out.

Everyone brings something different.

The first podcast I saw was the one on Bethlehem by @tejereningles. It was thanks to her that I discovered the Instagram knitting accounts, I discovered Ravelry, the podcasts, etc. Shortly after, I found Marianela Galo’s podcast from which a beautiful friendship was born. I also found Merino Feroz’s podcast it was a guy!

I also discovered Jaime’s Tejido in Brooklyn, another guy knitter!, Cecilia’s @mammadiypatterns and many more. One that I never miss is Ardilanak’s, which is a walking encyclopedia that I keep learning things from.

Being Inspired Keep your eyes wide open. And not only your eyes, but all your senses. I love Gaudí, his life and work. Tomás Luis de Victoria was a Renaissance composer and I identify myself 100% with his style. I’d love to be called the Tomás Luis de Victoria of knitting!

“To me, a knitting podcast is like a conversation between knitters.�

10

Generalife Vest

This vest is inspired by the Generalife Gardens (Granada, Spain), where Antonio used to walk as a child with his family. “These gardens, apart from being a delight to the senses, are full of fountains with a multitude of jets that cross each other, creating dreamy geometric shapes. The central motif of the vest is a vague image of the beauty of those fountains.”

Materials

- 60% merino, 20% silk and 20% yak yarn: 100 g – 366 m of Silkyak from El Robledal de la Santa Mohair (Deep Waters color) or any other yarn of fingering thickness.

-Since they are hand dyed skeins and may have a slight change of color, I recommend you to alternate them.

Size 1 - 800 m Size 2 - 850 m Size 3 - 900 m Size 4 - 950 m

Size 5 - 1100 m Size 6 - 1200 m Size 7 - 1350 m

- 3 mm (US 2.5) and 2.75 mm (US 2) needles with cables of 40 cm, 60 cm and 80 cm (32 in, 24 in and 16 in) or the necessary to have the gauge.

- Markers (one marker for the round start, two markers to mark the motif and 5 markers to mark the steeks).

- 2 auxiliary needles for braids.

- Tapestry needle and waste yarn.

- 2 mm crochet hook (or 2 sizes smaller than the bigger hook used) or a sewing machine to secure the steek.

Measurements

Theses sizes correspond to the finished garment. Choose a size that allows an intended positive ease of 5-10 cm (2-4 in) depending on your chest size (for example: if your chest size is 100 cm (39 ³/8) and you’d like a positive ease of 8 cm, you should choose size 4). You can modify the length in order to adapt it to your measures.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Gauge

Chest size 87,5 cm (35 in) 92,5 cm (37 in) 97,5 (39 in) 107,5 (43 in) 117,5 (47 in) 127,5 (51 in) 137,5 (55 in)

- 28 sts and 41 rounds in 10 cm (4 in) in stockinette stitch after blocking.

It’s highly important that you measure it when the gauge is dry and loose. If the number of stitches isn’t the same, the measures will change and you’ll have a different size. If you’re using 3 mm needles

and you get more than 28 stitches, change to a bigger one. If you get less, change to a smaller one. What is important is that the number of stitches of the gauge matches that of the pattern.

Skill level - Intermediate How to crochet the pattern This vest is knitted bottom up in a circular pattern and through the wrong side of the work. When you reach the armholes, you have to prepare the work to make a steek (Scottish word used to refer to the cut of the fabric). In the same way the neck hole is made. Finally, you have to join the shoulders with Kitchener stitch, cut the steeks and work the ribbings of the armholes and the neck hole.

Pattern In order not to have to purl all the time, work it on the wrong side of the work, therefore, keep in mind that what you’ll see while knitting will be the wrong side.

Realización Ribbing With the smaller needles and 80 cm / 16 in cable, CO 226 (240, 252, 274, 304, 330, 356) sts using tubular cast-on (watch the video in Spanish), join to work in a circular pattern, K1 and place BOR marker. Tubular cast-on has 2 set up rounds. You must join in the round after these 2 rounds.

Be careful not to twist the stitches when binding off and not to forget to knit a stitch before placing the BOR marker. The rounds start from the BOR marker.

Round 1: *Ptbl, K*, repeat ** until M. Repeat round 1 until approximately 7 cm (3 in) from cast-on edge or until the length you prefer.

Body Body Switch to the bigger needles. The bold correspond to the central motif.

Increases round: Size 1: (K7, M1) x5, K3, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K3, (M1, K7) x5, PM, (M1, K14) x7, M1, K15, M1. [245 sts] Size 2: (K10, M1) x4, K2, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K2, (M1, K10) x4, (M1, K12) x 9, M1, K11, M1. [259 sts] Size 3: (K7, M1) x6, K2, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K2, (M1, K7) x6, (M1, K16) x 7, M1, K15, M1. [273 sts] Size 4: (K7, M1) x7, K, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K, (M1, K7) x7, (M1, K12) x11, M1, K5, M1. [301 sts] Size 5: (K9, M1) x6, K4, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K4, (M1, K9) x6, (M1, K12, M1, K13), x6, M1, K. [329 sts] Size 6: (K9, M1) x7, K, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K, (M1, K9) x7, (M1, K13, M1, K14) x6, M1, K3. [357 sts] Size 7: (K8, M1) x8, K6, PM, (Ptbl, K3) x 9, Ptbl, PM, K6, (M1, K8) x8, (M1, K15, M1 K14) x6, M1, K5. [385 sts]

Armholes Wath the video (Spanish), https://youtu. be/MgRCAX1zVJM Attention! In this section you must repeat the last 1-10 rounds. It’ll be indicated as: “work x sts according to the motif”.

During round 1 switch to 60 cm cable.

Round 1: Remove BOR marker, K9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) sts. Now slip the sts just worked onto a waste yarn (don’t fasten off).

Work 105 (109, 115, 127, 137, 149, 159) sts according to the motif.

Slip the next 18 (20, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34) sts onto a waste yarn, fasten off and place the first SM.

Cast on 5 sts using firm backwards loops and place the second SM. K104, (110, 114, 126, 136, 148, 158).

Slip the 9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17) remaining sts onto the same waste yarn as for BOR (you will now have a total of 18 (20, 22, 24, 28, 30, 34) sts held at each underarm) and place the third SM. Cast on 5 sts using firm backwards loops and place the fourth SM (this will be also your BOR marker).

[219, 229, 239, 263, 283, 307, 327 sts].

It has been placed the stitches in the armhole in a waste yarn and cast on 5 stitches of steek instead. They are pointed out by the SM. These will be purled.

Round 2: *P2tog, work according to the motif until 2 sts before SM, lld, SM, P5, SM*, repeat **.

Repeat the last round 10 (10, 11, 14, 17, 20, 25) more times. [175, 185, 191, 203, 211, 223, 223 sts] Attention! Work in pattern means working the sts as they present themselves, i.e. knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches. Specially in the steeks and the stitches surrounding them: the 7 stitches will be purled.

Work according to the motif and in pattern until approximately 45 (45,5, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50) cm (18, 18,2, 18,5, 19, 19, 19,5 in) or 10 cm from armholes if you have changed the length. Last round must be round 5 of motif.

Neckline Wath the video (Spanish), https://youtu. be/6iBo3WjV4Nk Attention! During the decreases, you’ll have to keep crossing the sts according to the motif, as long as 5 sts are available for the crossing and haven’t decreased already. When the M’s of the motif aren’t necessary, you can remove them. You can see a graphic at the end of the pattern.

Round 1: Work 40 (42, 44, 47, 49, 52, 52) sts according to the motif.

Slip the next 3 sts (3 center sts) onto a waste yarn and place the first SM. Cast on 5 sts using firm backwards loops and place the second SM. Work according to the motif and until the garment measures 58 (60, 62, 64, 68, 69, 70) cm / (23,5, 24, 25, 25,5, 27, 27,2, 27,5 in) or the desired length.

Shoulders Wath the video (Spanish), https://youtu. be/DsRiJipq96k The shoulders are shaped working with German short rows.

Round 1: Work in pattern until 3 sts before the first SM armhole, turn the work and make a Dst. Round 2: Work in pattern until 3 sts before BOR, turn work and make a Dst. Round 3: Work in pattern until 4 sts until Dst, turn work and make a Dst. Repeat the last round 3 more times (Size 1: only 2 more times).

Work in pattern until the first armhole steek, SM, P5, SM, work the last German short rows in the same way on the back.

Work in pattern until BOR. Work in pattern until neck steek; remove SM; bind off 5 sts; remove SM; work in pattern until the first armhole steek; remove SM; bind off 5 sts; remove SM; work in pattern 16 (18, 18, 20, 22, 23, 23) sts; bind off 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 60) sts; work in pattern until last armhole steek; remove SM; bind off 5 sts, remove BOR marker.

Use Kitchener stitch to join 16 (18, 18, 20, 22, 23, 23) sts of the right front shoulder and mirror the sts of right back shoulder.

Repeat it for the left shoulder.

Armhole ribbing Attention! From this moment on you’ll have to turn the fabric inside out and work on the right side of the work.

Secure steeks using the crochet method or with a sewing machine (Knitter’s preference). Cut steeks down center st, creating armholes openings (watch the video in Spanish).

Slip underarm sts from waste yarn onto 40 cm smaller needles.

Starting at bottom left of armhole opening (to the left of underarm sts), begin picking up 3 sts for every 4 rounds around the armhole until you reach underarm again. PM and join work into the round.

If between the stitches that were in the waste yarn and the place where we have to start picking up stitches you have a hole left, also pick up 1 stitch there and in the first round is diminished. When picking up the stitches there’s no need to worry about whether you have odd or even. If it’s odd, the last two have to be knitted together.

Watch video in Spanish: https://youtu.be/ JQT-oANsafI Rounds 1-7: *Ktbl, P*, repeat ** until BOR. Round 8: *Ktbl, sl1wyif*, repeat ** until BOR. Round 9: *sl1wyib, P*, repeat ** until BOR. Tubular bind off.

Repeat these instructions now for the left armhole.

Neck ribbing Make the steek.

Slip 3 sts from waste yarn onto 40 cm smaller needles.

Starting at bottom left of the neck hole opening (just to the left of held sts), begin picking up 3 sts for every 4 rounds upside the neck until you reach shoulder seam.

Pick up 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 60) sts across back neck, continue picking up 3 sts for every 4 rounds down opposite side of neck opening.

PM and join work into the round.

Round 1: S2KPO, *Ktbl, P*, repeat ** until 1 st before M, Ktbl.

Rounds 2-4-6: K, work in pattern until 1 st before M (remember to knit trough back loop), sl1 onto right needle, remove M, sl1 onto left needle and PM. Rounds 3-5: S2KPO, work in pattern until BOR. Round 7: S2KPO, *sl1wyif, Ktbl*, repeat ** until 1 st before M, sl1wyif.

Round 8: *sl1wyib, P*, repeat ** until BOR. Tubular bind off.

Finishing touches Weave in all ends without cutting the ends.

Take into account that the vest has been knitted in the wrong side of the work and the loops might be in the right side. Before binding off pass them to the wrong side.

Block without pulling it, unless it’s necessary to have the desired measurements.

When it’s dry, cut the threads. Secure the steek (optional but advisable), whether with an invisible seam or a cotton ribbon.

Central motif graphic

Knit Ptbl: purl through back loop C5BF: place 1st on cable needle, hold to back; place 3 sts on another cable needle, hold to front, ptbl K3 from second cable needle; ptbl from first cable needle

Neck graphic This graphic only shows the rounds of the neck until the central motif completely disappears. Keep making decreases until reaching the number of stitches indicated in the pattern for the shoulders.

Knit Purl No stitch Ptbl: Purl through back loop C5BF: place 1st on cable needle, hold to back; place 3 sts on another cable needle, hold to front, ptbl K3 from second cable needle; ptbl from first cable needle lld: Left-leaning decrease: slip one knitwise, slip one knitwise, pass the slipped sts to the left needle and purl through back loop P2tog: Purl 2 sts together Cast on 1 st using backwards loops

14

Knitting @tricotriu

Tricotriu

These meetings have brought together more than 40 knitters and have created a small community whose bond goes beyond the hobby that unites them. “The fact of being able to knit with other knitters and share doubts, pieces of advice or ideas is very enriching. Only another knitter can understand the emotion you feel when you finish a garment, the anxiety to knit three projects at once, the madness when a new fiber comes out or the obsession we can have for a color.”

As for the Terreta Sweater, I based it on an sweater my mother had from decades ago. It was more of a research work, trying to figure out how each round fit together and to be able to bind off the work so that it would look good. The truth is that it was almost a year of work in which I have to admit that I had a lot of doubts and moments of stress. But, in the end, it worked out well and I can calmly say that I’m satisfied with the three designs.”

icotr

Bea has been knitting and showing her adventures between yarn balls in Tricotriu for years. She’s a technical architect, Valencian, stubborn, perfectionist and a paella lover (not necessarily in that order).

Around 2012, love at first sight with needles emerges. The first attempts were with the bobble stitch that would become a neck, the prettiest one and the most eagerly knitted.

Although that’s a feeling that always accompanies every knitter. Since then, she’s never stopped, and she’s even made patterns for well-known brands such as WAK.

“Tricotriu is born from the union between the Spanish word ‘tricotar’ (to knit) and my Valencian name ‘Beatriu’. When I started knitting I uploaded neck and scarf photos to my Instagram personal account and my friends used to say: ‘Why don’t you sell them?’ At the very beginning that was the idea… but what I really enjoyed the most was showing what I was knitting and creating the Instagram photo composition, from the material used, going through the execution process until the final garment. Little by little the number of followers started to grow. I began with the blog and did the first collaborations and to this day.”

More than a brand, Tricotriu it’s a personal project whose own room is on Instagram, the showcase where she tells her story as a knitter and shares projects of her passion. All this has led her to live experiences of all kinds, from knitting alone on the train every day to being the organizer of almost thirty knitting parties in Madrid, Alicante or Valencia.

Another important milestone for this compulsive knitter was her collaboration with the knitting kit brand We are Knitters. She never imagined when she bought her first kit that she would end up making a collection for them. “It was clear to me that I wanted to design three garments for all levels, so that my kits could be knitted by everyone from beginners to the most expert knitters. As for the design process, it’s curious that the one I had the most trouble designing was the Bonica Scarf. I wanted it to be very simple but also to attract a little attention, designing something like that it’s also difficult! My premise for designing the Mariola Snood was to use a stitch combining two colors, and after knitting several samples, it was very clear to me.

Knitting is the best yoga, the best company and the best therapy.

Beatriz bears witness to all of this, and adds a long list of other achievements, from stopping biting her nails (a tic that she eliminated when she couldn’t pass rounds well) to meeting “wonderful people who are today part of my life although they’re even many kilometers away.” We enjoy her adventures and are inspired by her ideas through social networks.

“T he fact of being able to knit with other knitters and share doubts, pieces of advice or ideas is very enriching. Only another knitter can understand the emotion you feel when you finish a garment�

Knitting For me the favorite pattern is the one you feel like knitting because it makes you enjoy while you knit it.

Leaving a mark Knitting, embroidering, painting, drawing, etc., are the greatest expression of oneself, and being oneself is how one leaves a mark.

Being inspired I would distinguish two types of inspiration. On the one hand, the one born from a need that your head consciously sets out to satisfy it.

And on the other hand, the one that drives you to create something more spontaneous, that is, when the idea comes out of you in a more fluid and relaxed way. Feeling that inspiration is great and can really come to you in any moment.

Following I try to follow only profiles related to the craft world so when I want to change of environment I switch to my private profile where I see content related to architecture, fashion, food or photography. Some of the accounts I like the most are @anniset and @drcuerda because they play like nobody else with visual effects, or @t_diary and @72kilos because of how much they express with a simple drawing or cartoon.

18

Tricopan, bread bag

To make this project you’ll have to knit and crochet. It’s a pattern that you can make with cotton waste, all in the same color or using different ones. You’ll also be able to adapt the measurements to your needs.

Materials

- Yarn 100% cotton: waste of the desired colors. It’s advisable that the material doesn’t yield to much. For the model of the photo, it has been used 250 g in color A (white), B (coral), C (blue) - 5 mm crochet hook - 6 mm knitting needles

Measurements

- 25 cm wide and 48 cm long Gauge 25 stitches and 30 rounds in 15 cm in the pattern stitch (see below)

Skill level - Begginer

How to crochet and knit the pattern

Pattern

The stitch we’re going to use is quite simple. Cast on 41 stitches but if you need to adapt it, you just have to cast on a number of stitches multiple of two plus one.

To make the bag exactly the same as in the photos, make the following changes of color from round 1 to round 88.

It’s made in the following way: R1: Knit all the stitches.

R2: Knit 1 stitch, *purl two stitches together and, without taking them out of the left needle, knit them.* Repeat from * to * until you reach the end of the round.

R3: Knit all the stitches.

R4: *Purl two stitches together and without taking them out of the left needle, knit them.* Repeat from * to * until you have one stitch left and knit it.

R1-16: Knit it with color A. R17-22: Knit it with color B. R23-26: Knit it with color C. R27-34: Knit it with color A. R35-38: Knit it with color B. R39-40: Knit it with color C. R41-44: Knit it with color A. R45-46: Knit it with color B. R47, 48, 51, 52, 55, 56, 59, 60, 63, 64, 67, 68: Knit it with color A. R49, 50, 53, 54, 57, 58, 61, 62, 65, 66: Knit it with color C. R69-74: Knit it with color B. R75-80: Knit it with color C. R81-84: Knit it with color B. R85-88: Knit it with color A. To bind off the stitches, alternate knitting a stitch and purling a stitch.

Repeat the same to make the other side of the bag.

In the case of the image, it’s approximately 90 cm long.

When finishing, make a knot and cut the threads leaving about 20 cm. Pass the cord between the holes. Knot the two cord ends. With the surplus threads wrap the knot area to cover it up and with the help of a needle hide the surplus thread on the inside.

Once you have the two parts, leave the knitting needles and take the crochet ones.

Finishing touches With color A, crochet a round in double crochet in each part. To make the holes through which you’ll later pass the closing cord, make a chain stitch and leave one stitch without crocheting every 5 stitches.

This is approximate, according to the width you have, distribute it as you consider best.

Join the two sides and crochet them with a slip stitch with color B thread.

Bind off the edges with bobble stitch with color C thread.

To bind off with the bobble stitch, insert the needle in the first stitch of one of the upper corners of the bag and hook the new thread with the help of the needle.

Continue crocheting as if it were a single crochet but from left to right. Once you’ve bound off the three edges of the bag, continue until you have finished the top edge.

To make the closing cord it has been used a very simple technique that also allows the use of two colors. You can also make everything in the same color.

Take the threads of two balls and make a simple knot leaving some cm to be able to hold it better. Make a slipknot by making a loop with the right thread and passing the left one inside. This will form the first stitch where you have to insert the crochet needle and pull the right thread to adjust it. Holding it tight, wrap the needle with the left thread from front to back, take the right thread with the needle and pass it inside the two threads that you have in the needle. Repeat these steps until you reach the desired size.

www.frutosamore.com

Fruto

20

Tapestry macramĂŠ

Samore

ruto Sara is one of the mentors of the tapestry and macramé world. Born in Burgos, she moved to Madrid for love more than one decade ago, a city where she lives next to her family, including Mia, the little dog that they adopted five years ago.

The same time that this administrative worker decided to devote completely to that which truly filled her: Fruto Samore, a word game between the concept “fruit of her hands” and her name, Sara Moreno. “I was forced to quit my job due to an incompatibility of conciliation when my son Mateo was born and seek an escape from life; I didn’t want my son to see his mother as a sad and stressed person.

Luckily, I found that the tapestry world relaxed me, I liked it and made me feel good.”

Fruto Samore is an artisan brand dedicated to the creation of textile craft accessories and modern wall tapestries made in loom, macramé or a mix of both to decorate beautiful spaces. They’re exclusive and unique pieces, because she never repeats a design. She also teaches courses and workshops of these techniques, both for companies and individuals, collaborates with brands and is tester of products related to her work. “And above all, I now enjoy what I do, I reconcile my familiar life with the job, and I’ve found my way.”

She works from home, a bright place full of Nordic decorative details that delight her followers on Instagram.

In the mornings she types non-stop between pending emails, budget and

and sketches, she works on her tapestries and prepares her “DIY Handmade Kits”, so that anyone who’s not familiar with the material can learn from home with all the necessary.

On the other hand, she has the help from her husband, the other half of Fruto Samore, which is in charge of the web, posts, newsletters and is an emotional support in this career in the craft enterprise. “Fortunately, I’m dedicated to this work full-time or nearly full-time, until the little ones come through the door.”

Her pieces are hung in restaurants, shops, or private homes, as well as adorning the most special moments or places for many people (very applauded are her photocalls for weddings or curtains for baby cribs).

“I find very rewarding and enjoyable to create from scratch a work of art where little by little you see its progress, where you let your imagination and creativity run wild. In my case, I never create two equal pieces, because it wouldn’t be the same for me and person who receives it.” Strongly influenced by the rebirth of the boho chic style, she’s inspired by international publications and Pinterest.

Textile fabric rarely becomes a popular art, but these techniques that became fashionable in the ‘70s, they’re back to stay. She is self-taught and she experiments and shares everything she’s learned about them on her social networks, where we can find tips and tricks such as having a lot of patience and calculate well the necessary meters so that we don’t fall short with the knots; or make sketches and choose the material and colors we’re going to use before starting the work.

She works with the aim of claiming the textile art for the creation of daily use pieces with a modern air. Without labels or fashions, an art that will always be there, waiting for us.

Starting Be constant, work hard and, above all, always provide your sign of identity.

Be true to yourself and never copy or plagiarize!

Making macramĂŠ or tapestry My favorites are those projects that I make for myself, of free creation, those that I use to keep learning and pushing my knowledge to the limit, like the yellow jacket of macramĂŠ I made for my particular wardrobe.

Being inspired Follow accounts that you like very much until you find your favorite style and try a thousand times to create your own.

Following I deeply admire @santapazienzia and @alimaravillas from the crochet world. Also, painters like @raulalvarezpintura and his realism with water, or @meledelayglesia and her freehand drawings.

“Creating from scratch a work of art where little by little you see its progress.

I find it very rewarding and enjoyable to let your imagination and creativity run wild�

24

Wheat Field Tapestry

Creating a tapestry like everything in the craft world is to build something with our hands. What does it involve? Time for us and the satisfaction to make something for oneself.

Sara has made this tutorial in a clear and concise way so that creating is within the reach of everyone.

Materials

- Yarn: 1 mustard-colored warp cone, 1 black-colored warp cone, 1 cream-colored macramé cord of 3 mm, 1 cream-colored macramé cord of 5 mm, 2 jute air yarn balls - Pine bar - Optional: fabric glue

Measurements - Go to the graphic in the next page

Skill level - Beginner

How to make the pattern This tapestry is made with three types of knot: reverse lark’s head knot, square knot, festoon knot. See knots description in the glossary (page 110).

Step by step Step 1: Cut 17 cords of 3 meters of length and place them on the rod with the reverse lark’s head knot.

Step 2: Mark with a black cord half of the tapestry and start creating the square knots on the closest cords with jute air.

Create a line of square knots until covering a length of 78 cm.

Step 3: As you mix different types of cords in this tapestry, you can’t count the knots because each cord has different dimensions and it also depends on the tightness of the knots. So, do it calculating the length in cm.

Stick the finished lines to each other with fabric glue so that the drawing is well marked.

Take a look at the graphic and its measures, even though you can always adapt it as you like.

Step 4: Tie all the unleashed cords behind the tapestry with two simple knots.

F R I N G E S

Step 5: Keep on making lines of square knots following the graphic, adding more cords of different types and colors when it’s required.

F R I N G E S

F R I N F G R E I S N G E S

Step 6: Finally, create a line of festoon knots in the middle of the tapestry with the black warp. This way, you’ll create such beautiful fringes. Comb it and cut it as wished.

@thewoolloop

T he Wool

26

Crochet

Loop

The author of all the beautiful patterns created in The Wool Loop is Tania Schwartz, of Canarian origin, a dreamer and confirmed creator, administrative by obligation and crocheter by passion. She spends her working day wanting to get home to do what she really likes, designing crochet clothes.

This craft world is also touched by a certain stress, the “obligation” to be constantly generating content or the desire to do several things at once is contradictory to the philosophy of these works. Tania’s advice is the following, “crocheting is relaxing, enjoying the process and focusing on the project you have in your hands.

There are times when we want to do many projects at once and without realizing it, we fall into the syndrome of the hyper-gifted child (who doesn’t appreciate what he or she has).”

T he

Her career has always been marked by the world of art in general (she studied Fine Arts and decoration), and she’s even devoted much of her life to photography. The day she decided to put a name to what she was doing she wasn’t exclusively focused on crochet designs, she was experimenting with other techniques such as tapestry or knitting. So she needed a name that comprised everything related to playing with yarn, “It was clear to me that the word ‘wool’ was the key that couldn’t be missed and from there I began to make several tests until I found the ‘wool loop’.

The loop represented me 100 % because since I took my first ball I couldn’t stop. I finally decided to put it in English because I found it more visually appealing.”

As Tania herself explains, everything she creates is very much related to her personal likes and way of being, “I consider myself a very visual person, with many influences coming from film, photography and art in general.” She’s always looking for her own stamp that distinguishes her from others, reflected in a fresh and modern style, with very unique color contrasts (pastel shades mixed with other solids), but which give as a final result unique pieces.

Her bags, jackets or tops sometimes remind us of popular Peruvian crafts because of their geometry, but the chromatic range they use makes these garments look as if they’ve been transferred to the 21st century. Another of her signs of identity is the use of the granny square, the first thing she crocheted around 2011. “When I design a garment, the first thing I consider is whether it’s something I would use. Because of my constitution there are many shapes that don’t suit me, so I always try to create clothes with which I’ll be comfortable, let’s say that would be the only guideline that doesn’t vary in each of my processes, otherwise I try to flow in terms of choice of colors and so on, depending also on whether it’s an order or I’m crocheting for me.

In the end, in an order you’re always more limited in the creative process because you also depend on the tastes of the other person.

That constant loop of wool has enriched her life in many ways and made her grow as a person. She often gives workshops and travels around thanks to them, “what I enjoy most is seeing how the students learn, especially when someone comes along who doesn’t know anything and you see them leave happy with their first creation in their hands.” She doesn’t stop meeting people with whom she shares the same passion, but above all, she enjoys the therapeutic benefits that these techniques imply, “it has helped me to disconnect in difficult stages of my life.There’s a reason they call it the new yoga, an escape route from my daily routine where I can give free rein to my imagination.

Starting To make a difference you have to love what you do, be consistent and define your style. Never forget our motivation and why we started.

Crocheting My favorite pattern is a jacket I crocheted for the DMC blog. For the design I used different geometric shapes, the technical drawing was my favorite subject, and this is reflected here. I think it’s the garment that represents me the most.

Following I love the work of Mireia Ruiz and Camille Walala, both artists mix different geometric shapes and use color in a prodigious way, they’re a great source of inspiration for me.

Being inspired When I feel blocked and need a creative impulse what works best for me is to go to the beach, the sound of the sea and the sun renews me completely. When I get home, I’m a different person and ideas emerge again. In short, it’s necessary to disconnect from routine and connect with nature.

“Knitting is relaxing, enjoying the process and focusing on the project.

�

30

Striped Pinafore

The pinafore, you may have hated it or loved it during your childhood, but this garment always comes back and is a good time to give it a chance. What better way to make it than in the crochet version?

Materials

- Yarn: 2 yarn balls of veggiesilk (500 g) in mint and cinnamon color - 6 or 7 mm crochet hook

Measurements

- Skirt height: 37 cm Skirt width: 50 cm Total pinafore height without the suspenders: 55 cm Total pinafore height with the suspenders: 80 cm

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet the pattern It’s a very simple and easy to make three-piece pattern.

Pattern The number of chain stitches you make initially will determine the height of the skirt. If you want it shorter or longer you’ll just have to add or diminish the number of chain stitches.

In this case, 41 ch x 40 hdc are equal to 35 cm. Remember that it’ll also depends on the gauge in which you crochet.

Make 3 rounds of each color to form the stripes in both colors.

Crochet 41 ch.

R1 - R3: 40 hdc (cinnamon) R4 - R6: 40 hdc (mint) R7 - R9: 40 hdc (cinnamon) When you’ve reached round 10, add 21 ch more to form the higher part. You’ll have to crochet first the 21 ch and then you’ll have to make a total of 60 hdc.

Here you must also keep in mind whether this height suits you or not. My advice is that you try on the garment in front of the mirror and check if you need to add or diminish chain stitches. All bodies are different.

For the back base from which the suspenders will come out, crochet 31 ch and make 12 rounds of 30 hdc, alternating 3 rounds in mint and 3 rounds in cinnamon.

Finally, you’ll get 2 mint-colored stripes and 2 cinnamon-colored ones.

By crossing the suspenders the rectangle will fold in the center. You can make some stitches from behind so that it’s more stable. You can also put the suspenders without crossing them so that the rectangle doesn’t fold. It’s up to you!

R10 - R12: 60 hdc (mint) R13 - R15: 60 hdc (cinnamon)

Center the base in the back part and join it upside down to the skirt.

And pinafore done!

R16 - R33: Repeat rounds 10 to 15 three more times. At the end you’ll have a group of 4 stripes of each color interspersed. If the width is very big or small, just add or diminish rounds, as needed.

From round 34 you’ll just have to make 40 hdc to continue with the skirt. The number of rounds made will determine the width, if you want it smaller or bigger, just add or diminish rounds, as indicated before.

Now, to make the suspenders, you have to crochet 61 ch (try it on before you continue crocheting to check out if the length suits you. Keep in mind that the suspenders are going to be crossed on the back.)

R34 - R78: repeat rounds from 1 to 6.

Once the rounds are finished, join them on the inside with a single crochet.

You already have the body of the garment ready. Now you can make the suspenders and the base rectangle for the back.

www.etsy.com/es/shop/GanchiGurumi

GanchiGurumi

32

Amigurumi

In his particular universe you can find mostly dolls crocheted in 3D, “I always say that I’m inspired by a kawaii style, but I try to mix it with the chibi esthetic of big heads and small bodies. In general, anything that can be freak, in a sense, I try to make it adorable, and if it already is, even more.”

It’s not often that you find men who crochet in Spain. Fernando confesses to us that he never thought in breaking any stereotypes or to do anything that would stand out. “At a one point, I’ve also suffered from gender discrimination, in this case the other way around but, in general, I’ve always received a lot of support, and I feel very lucky. I also feel proud that some men may see in me the push they need to not feel shame. At the end of the day we have to enjoy what we do.”

Gan

Fernando is a boy from Granada (Spain) who crochets adorable dolls, “sometimes I have the impression that it’s so unexpected that when a new follower arrives on my account, they generally refer to me in feminine, taking it for granted that I’m a woman.”

His professional career is distant from the craft world, although it was thanks to it that he discovered the amigurumi world. He studied Translation and Interpreting, specialized in French and Chinese, then moved to the United Kingdom and Belgium for work. It was in the latter country where he began to learn Japanese and later, back in Spain, he continued with that passion by doing a Master’s degree on East Asia, “I guess my love of languages and specifically Japanese culture have defined much of what Ganchigurumi is now.”

He started crocheting at the end of 2014, but he really only knew how to make chains stitches and double crochets that his mother had taught him to make a blanket of grannies. “When I ended it up, a few months later, she taught me how to make single crochets (I spent a few months without knowing how to make them!) In that moment I found out YouTube, specifically Marta Blüu and Alba from Lanas y Ovillos. A world of possibilities was opened to me and I ended up finding amigurumis.” Around 2015, motivated by his surroundings, he opened a Facebook account for which he needed a name; he didn’t think it twice, he united the words “Ganchi” from “ganchillo” (crochet) and Gurumi from “amigurumi” and started to develop a little more his favorite hobby.

During a while, he dedicated exclusively to GanchiGurumi, although currently he combines it with other activities, keeping open his Etsy store where you can find some of his patterns. In this stage he prefers to enjoy crocheting, designing and showing the world what he thinks is most beautiful.

Turned into a more intimate and personal project, he’s dedicated to research and create other different kinds of pieces that he originally made, so as to show what he has learned in both YouTube and Instagram, two of the social networks where he interacts most with a community that loves this kind of techniques. At present, he has focused on the creation of articulated dolls, “I’m involved in the design of a basic chibi look, whose pattern can be acquired on my Etsy.

It’s a base body that can be personalized in a lot of characters with the clothes and the hairstyle, so that people can turn it into whoever they like best. To give ideas or if someone isn’t capable of designing their own character, I’m also designing many others whose patterns will become available little by little. However, I haven’t stopped (only parked) designing complete dolls that are crocheted from scratch to end and that are just like that.”

The gender stereotype can be broken through crafts? In his opinion, anything that moves us can be defended. The crafts aren’t an exception, but this boy from Granada would highlight the respect. “Tolerance in general, both between the crafts (there isn’t a craft better than other), and in life in general, going through the different ways of leisure. Ways of living, feeling, being entertained, there is infinite, as many as there are people. Why should my way be better or worse than the way next door?

And I insist, it can apply to the silliest thing of our daily life and to something so important that it can affect people’s lives.

Crocheting Although my followers may get tired of seeing the same doll (in different situations and with different clothes, though), Nandogurumi has become for me another symbol of GanchiGurumi, with its own personality. It wasn’t designed for that, but to show the world my ability to customize dolls that look like a real person.

And, to begin, obviously, what better model than myself.

Leaving a mark The truth is I don’t really know how to leave a mark. I’m still looking for that answer, but at least I’ve learned that what I want most is to leave a mark on my own. I mean, every time I’m more and more interested in what I do, in the fact that I like it and am excited about it, that I’m satisfied and my heart is moved when I look at my project.

Being inspired Inspiration is so subjective that I don’t think I should tell anyone how to do it. So, do what your heart asks, and that joy will attract inspiration! At least I like to think that in my case is this way.

Following On the one hand, an illustrator, Ross from @rossdraws. His manga style mixed with that watercolor look captivates me and relaxes me. On the other hand, @homelymbrosia, Violet, besides being a great friend from childhood, she’s quite an artist.

She has a great voice, plays several instruments and composes poetry and songs of her own. She transmits so many emotions!

“I also feel proud that some men may see in me the push they need to not feel shame. At the end of the day we have to enjoy what we do. �

36

Bunny costume (chibi doll)

The chibi doll is one of the most popular creations of GanchiGurumi (you can find the doll in his Etsy Store). For this amigurumi he has created a bunny costume and a kawaii carrot to dress it.

Materials

- Yarn: Cotton for a 3 mm crochet hook. Suggested colors: (A) brown, (B) light gray, black, orange, green. Stuffed or fuzzy touch yarn in white (normal cotton can also be used like in the rest of the project.)

- 2 mm crochet hook - 8 mm safety eyes (for the carrot) - Synthetic stuffing (for the carrot) - 2 mini buttons

Measurements - 13 cm

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet de pattern: This pattern is made in spiral and without binding off the rounds (unless otherwise indicated.)

Pattern Legs x2 In brown or gray.

R1: 10 ch and join the first with sl st to form a circle.

R2: *1 sc, 1 inc* x 5 (15).

R3 - R8: 15 sc.

Bind off the first leg but leave the second without binding off to continue with the body costume from that stitch.

Costume body Continue in brown or gray from the last stitch of the second leg.

R9: 5 ch, 15 sc (in the first leg), 5 sc (in the ch), 15 sc (in the second leg), 5 sc (in the ch) (40). *The 5 ch don’t count for the total stitches of the round, they’re just a base for crocheting the crotch.

*This last union is made exactly the same as the union of the doll’s legs, explained in detail in the pattern to crochet it.

R10 - R11: 40 sc.

R12: 38 sc.

Leave 2 stitches without working. Raise with 1 ch and turn the work. From this moment, crochet in rows instead of rounds. Make 1 ch and turn the work at the end of each row.

Row 1: 1 dec, 36 sc, 1 dec (38).

Although in R12 you only make 38 sc, in fact they are 40, for that reason Row 1 can end with 38 stitches too. Don’t worry.

Row 2: 1 dec, 34 sc, 1 dec (36).

Row 3: *4 sc, 1 dec* x 3 and then *1 dec, 4 sc* x 3 (30).

In this way, 2 decreases will be in the center so that it takes the shape of the body.

Row 4: 30 sc.

Row 5: *3 sc, 1 dec* x 3 and then *1 dec, 3 sc* x 3 (24).

Row 6-7: 24 sc.

Row 8: 3 sc, 5 ch (skip 3 stitches), 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 5 ch (skip 3 stitches), 3 sc (26).

Row 9: 3 sc, 5 sc (in FLO of the 5 ch), 10 hdc, 5 sc (in FLO de las 5 ch), 3 sc (26).

Row 10: 8 sc, 10 hdc, 8 sc (26).

Bind off.

Stuffed edges Hood In brown or gray color.

R1: Mr (6).

R2: *1 inc* x 6 (12).

R3: *1 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (18).

R4: *2 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (24).

R5: *3 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (30).

R6: *4 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (36).

R7: *5 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (42).

R8: *6 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (48).

R9 - R18: 48 sc.

R19: 10 hdc.

Leave the rest without working.

Join those 10 hdc with sl st to the 10 hdc of the center of Row 10 from the body of the costume. If you prefer it, you can bind off the hood and then sew.

With white thread of stuffed touch (or in normal cotton if you prefer.)

Hook the thread in the leg’s edges and in the armholes and crochet one of the edges with sc around. Bind off and weave the threads in.

Hook the thread in the lower corner of the costume opening and crochet: 10 sc upwards, [1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc] (in the corner), 8 sc (in the costume neck), 1 triple dec (3 stitches together in the union between the body and the hood), 38 sc (in FLO of the hood), 1 triple dec (3 stitches together in the union between the body and the hood), 8 sc (in the costume neck), [1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc] (in the corner; the 5 ch are the buttonholes), 4 sc downwards, [1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc] (the 5 ch are the buttonholes), 5 sc downwards and join to the first stitch to bind off the edge.

Hair In black color.

Hook the thread in the remaining BLO of the hood, in the 7th stitch from the union with the body costume.

Crochet locks as it follows: *6 ch, in the 2nd ch from the hook, 5 sc, join to the hood with 1 sl st* x 5 *8 ch, in the 2nd ch from the hook, 7 sc join to the hood with 1 sl st* x 15 *6 ch, in the 2nd ch from the hook, 5 sc, join to the hood with 1 sl st* x 5

Carrot sleeves x 3 In green color.

The sleeves are crocheted in rows instead of rounds.

Row 1: 9 ch.

Row 2: in the 2nd ch from the hook, 3 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, [5 dc] (in the last ch and continue on the other side), 2 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sl st.

Bind off and leave a long tail to sew. Sew in the top part of the carrot.

Bunny ears x2 In brown or grey.

R1: Mr (6).

R2: *2 sc, 1 inc* x 2 (8).

R3 - R4: 8 sc.

R5: *2 sc, 1 dec* x 2 (6).

R6 - R8: 6 sc.

Bind off and crochet the hood without stuffing.

Also sew the two buttons on the opposite side of the fuzzy edge buttonholes to be able to open and close the costume.

Carrot In orange color.

R1: Mr (6).

R2: 6 sc.

R3: *1 inc* x 6 (12).

R4: 12 sc.

R5: *1 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (18).

R6 - R7: 18 sc.

R8: *2 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (24).

R9 - R10: 24 sc.

R11: *3 sc, 1 inc* x 6 (30).

R12 - R16: 30 sc.

Bunny tail With white thread of stuffed touch (or in normal cotton if you prefer).

R1: Mr (6).

R2: 6 sc.

Bind off and sew to the back part of the costume, in the opposite part of the opening. Stuff a little earlier before finishing crocheting.

Place the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, 7 sc apart.

R17: *3 sc, 1 dec* x 6 (24).

Stuff.

R18: *2 sc, 1 dec* x 6 (18).

R19: *1 sc, 1 dec* x 6 (12).

Finish stuffing. Close the hole and bind off.

Embroider a mouth and rosy cheeks as you like best.

@mamaquillatejidos

MamaQuilla

40

Crochet and knitting

At present, she continues to live in Buenos Aires, where she has set up her studio and workshop, where she teaches how to crochet, encourages creation and invites people to be “creative”. For Julia, both knitting and crocheting are spaces where each of us can develop our personal skills, “I believe that each of us carries a magic that allows us to move in a unique way in this world and in mamaQuilla there is a clear intention to encourage that personal search by deactivating obstacles, silencing self-criticism and giving more power to our inner voice.”

Besides being a great communicator and teacher, she creates knit and crochet patterns that she sells digitally and makes different collaborations. In her projects there’s always a palette that inspires happiness, with simple, unstructured and “high positive impact designs.”

Mam

Julia Mackeprang was eighteen years old and was going to study medicine in Buenos Aires (Argentina), but suddenly she came across a big city that offered her many paths. The questions ran through her mind: what do I want to be and how am I going to get there? The answer was immediate, “I want to be happy, feel passionate about what I do and work with pleasure and dedication. Not as a distant goal, but as a way to live.”

During that period in search of “being” she tried other careers, studied design and began her training as a choreographer (she had already been dancing since she was fifteen and had trained as a gymnast for a whole decade) until knitting became more apparent. “At that time, knitting and sewing were very much present, accompanied by unanswered questions in those days. Little by little I gave it more space. In the eagerness to work I started going to fairs, selling to people close to me, accepting personalized orders, etc. It started to become a job and I gained enough confidence to choose a name with more identity (mamaQuilla), and even opened a Facebook account. From that first showcase I felt much more committed to the branding and the proposal.

From that moment on (I think it was a summer Sunday in 2009) I’ve been working while being.

The name of the brand arises by relating those words with which she identified the emotions that moved her to create it (woman, being, expressing oneself, letting go, meeting, union, opening up, giving life to ideas, etc.) with goddesses that represented them. That is how MamaQuilla appeared, “it means Mother Moon or Grandmother Moon in Quechua language, she’s a powerful figure who defends women, creation and every creative gesture.”

Behind every crochet or knit round there’s always a message of action and movement to get what we want to be or have. This is demonstrated through its content on Instagram with the hashtags #yosoytejsiendo, “knit to believe and create”, or #misacorchetera. The latter is a meeting and learning space where Julia shares live how to make a project in real time, the most interesting thing is that the audience can interact by asking questions or sharing their experiences. These virtual meetings have been a challenge both on a personal and professional level, they’re a way to overcome the embarrassment in front of the camera to show the human side that’s often hidden in the online world, where it’s edited, trimmed or hidden. “In marketing terms is everything that ‘shouldn’t’ be a video on YouTube, some last up to an hour and have no editing whatsoever.

But in relation to ‘real networks’ they’re everything I imagine as ideal, because there’s connection and that’s something this community values very much: to crochet and knit and to be able to share the moment.

Julia has achieved what many crocheters and knitters dream of, making a hobby a full-time job, but this can be dangerous on a creative level. “It hasn’t been easy to combine my work as a knitting teacher and at the same time learn and grow as a designer. I got it when I stopped teaching for six days a week, to do it for three a month. That’s how I gave myself space to be able to devote myself continuously to nurturing and developing my own creative journey: connecting with me, drawing, writing, crocheting and knitting much more, testing and of course enjoying myself while everything goes by without the days slipping away.”

Ten years of searching, of overcoming limits and with the same questions very present, “what do I want to “Be” and how am I going to achieve it? And here I am, ‘Being by Doing’ with my hands.”

“I want to be happy, feel passionate about what I do and work with pleasure and dedication. Not as a distant goal, but as a way to live.�

Starting Make your own way! Entrepreneurship is a verb that is “alive” and asks you to be equal, alive and connected to yourself! To be able to transform yourself in order to be updated with our objective.

Time kneads things sometimes too slowly and it’s only by being patient that you get a few jumps.

Crocheting I’m working on an ongoing project, it’s called “ABULITA” (as I sometimes call my grandmother), they’re basic garments with a retro wink that evokes the fabrics that were sometimes made with remnants of different yarns and that generates unusual shades or mixtures. This collection has me trapped because it allows me to play a lot with colors!

Being inspired Usually, if I feel blocked, it helps me to do something, no matter what, but moving is the key. I put my attention and energy into another activity that allows me to flow. Dancing, cooking, gardening, or taking a walk as a tourist in one’s own city.

Following I invite you to see the account of these crocheters: @varetasdelsur, @aliciascardetta, @johamiltonart, @atelierchaos, @tuijaheikkinen, @yrurari and @karendolorez. I love the DIY of @bloggdomath and @napalmquist makes me happy.

44

Serena top

Simplicity is MamaQuilla’s hallmark and it’s demonstrated by this pattern, a delicate and easy to make top. “It’s designed to connect from the minimum, rediscovering the beauty that lives in simplicity and giving us a moment of serene plots”.

Materials

How to crochet the pattern

-Yarn: 100 g of 3-ply cotton yarn (20 WPI) for size S - 2 mm crochet hook - Stitch marker - Little buttons

Make two almost identical pieces. Both with the same main body and each one with a small extension that will correspond to the back and the front.

Measurements

Front right + front waistband for buttons

- Size S

Skill level

Pattern How to crochet the front cups It’s a cup crocheted in hdc ribbed from behind that starts in the center and grows outward as we crochet. It’s crocheted by turning the fabric, combining knitting and purling, which together with the back ribbed stitches, generate a weft that simulates the tricot technique.

In its structure is hidden only a central line of increases, with 1 stitch as its axis and that in each round adds 1 stitch to each side of the piece.

- Intermediate

Front left + back

Cast on 40 foundation ch. Crochet 2 raising ch and start crocheting 1 half double crochet (from now on hdc) in each of the next 39 base stitches.

On the next stitch make 5 hdc and continue crocheting 1 hdc for the next 39 foundation sts using the other side of the foundation chain.

There are 83 stitches left in total: 1 central stitch and 41 stitches on each side.

Place a marker in the stitch number 42, which is our central stitch. Turn the work.

From here continue crocheting until you have completed 20 rounds. Always add 1 st per round to each side of the central stitch. At the end we should have: 1 central stitch and 60 stitches on each side.

From here we’ll continue crocheting and we’ll make a different work for each front part.

Front left + back

Top strips

R21: from where the previous round ended, turn the work. Make 2 raising ch and start crocheting 1 hdc ribbed stitch from the back for each of the following 32 base sts (or the desired height for the back.)

Turn the fabric.

R22: Crochet 2 raising ch and crochet 1 hdc ribbed stitch from the back for each of the following 32 base sts. Turn the fabric.

R23 - R73: Crochet as in round 22. Cut leaving a long tail to be able to sew and work at the end. Leave on standby for assembly.

With the I-Cord technique we’ll lift 3 stitches at each angle of the cups and crochet a 3 stitch cord of the length needed to reach half of the back. Also from the back we’ll make 2 strips with the same technique. With an approximate length up to the shoulders.

Front right + waistband buttons R21: from where the previous round ended, turn the work. Make 2 raising ch and start crocheting 1 hdc ribbed stitch from the back for each of the following 32 base sts (or the desired height for the back.)

Turn the fabric.

R22: Crochet 2 raising ch and crochet 1 hdc ribbed stitch from the back for each of the following foundation sts. Cut and work the last stitch.

Finishing touches With the two main pieces crocheted, we can proceed with the assembly.

We’ll sew the sides as shown in the picture: sides A to each other and sides B to each other. Once it’s done, only the strips of the top have to be crocheted.

1. Lift 1 ch in the 3 stitches to work.

2. Remove the hook from the last 2 chains, leaving them in suspension, take the thread and crochet 1 chain on the first stitch.

3. Insert the hook into the second chain, take the thread and crochet 1 chain.

4. Insert the hook into the third chain, take the thread and make 1 chain.

There are now 3 stitches left on the hook.

Repeat steps 2, 3 and 4 until the desired length is reached. A three-stitch cord will be formed. Cut and work the last stitch at the end.

Make a strong knot at the end of each cord.

46

Amigurumi @mitxoko

MiTxoko

In addition, she’s managed to create a large community in social networks with which she shares the same concerns, “I was one of the people who never had a personal Facebook account when everyone else did, because I didn’t understand the idea of sharing photos with strangers or meeting people online. Opening the MiTxoko Instagram account was a big challenge for me, but it was worth it.

Another great experience she’s had thanks to Instagram is being the forerunner of “colorcollage”. An initiative that came about spontaneously in response to the many fans who asked her for advice on how to make their photos more beautiful or how to combine colors in a project. “I had noticed that many of the photos that I liked most in my profile were those in which only one color predominated.

I always look for objects around my house in similar shades that I can use with my dolls for photos, and I saw that not everyone realized that it was as simple as that. So I thought that one way to encourage other people’s creativity and help them take pictures that are eye-catching and visually appealing was to do colorcollage. I proposed something very simple, they had to take pictures using objects they had around the house in one color. The result was spectacular, and the best part was seeing the reaction of the people when they realized how simple it’s to make beautiful, colorful pictures.

c

Amaya is a Cordoban girl with a Basque name, which has always been linked to any activity that involves creating with her hands. After studying veterinary medicine, she decided to focus on the world of research (another of her great passions) and, once she finished her doctoral thesis, she settled in Holland for work, but during all these years she has continued to create and try out different ways of expressing her creativity.

This optimistic and empowering philosophy is exactly what she wants to convey through her dolls. An attitude that translates into the use of happy colors, simple and austere lines, so that each of us can use our imagination and give that personal touch when crocheting them. “Having a positive attitude in life helps a lot, that’s why my purpose is to make people smile with my pictures, or to make them feel proud when they make any of my patterns and see that they’ve achieved it and that it has turned out beautiful.”

itxo One of those creative escape routes is MiTxoko, which means “corner” in Basque, a window where she shows everything she does with crochet hooks. She started crocheting five years ago thanks to video tutorials on YouTube, although at first it was difficult for her to do so. “One of the main reasons I started was to relax. I’ve always done some kind of craft, especially painting, but for a few years now it’s been getting harder and harder because of the lack of time and space at home. So, after trying several techniques, I discovered crochet and fell in love with how easy it’s to take your project anywhere, as well as the amount of practical things you can do. A few months later I made my first amigurumi and fell in love. I still find it amazing to create something in 3D that has come out of your imagination. And when you see the happy face of a child when you give it to them... I don’t change it for anything in the world!”

Another collateral consequence of crocheting, for all the fans in general and for Amaya in particular, is that it brings security and confidence in oneself, “I’ve realized that if I set my mind to it I’m capable of doing things that didn’t even cross my mind before.”

Like most makers, she always has more than one project on her hands and for some time now she would like to expand the MiTxoko family with new amigurumis. At the moment, the presidential position is occupied by Mr. Hugs, the first pattern she released and whose response has encouraged her to continue creating. This 3D crocheted piece is a sweet and “cuddly” doll that becomes the best adventure friend for the little ones who receive it. She designed it with her son in mind and with anyone who could crochet it regardless of their level as a crocheter. “After many sketches, I finally decided on the current pattern. It’s very simple, it’s made almost in one piece, so you don’t have to sew much because I know how lazy it is. Besides, it contains many pictures of the step-by-step to make everything clear so that everyone dares to crochet it.”

This movement of color continues on her social networks, where she continues to show everything she does when she’s not in front of a microscope. Her work as a scientist and her love of crafts has made her an advocate for the environment and encourages us to be aware of how, with small gestures, we can make a better world. From her Instagram account we can see how she makes practical things (elements to be zero waste at home), gives life to pieces she no longer wears (lining a bracelet with threads) or simply enjoys her “happy crafty place.”

“I’ve realized that if I set my mind to it I’m capable of doing things that didn’t even cross my mind before. ”

Crocheting One of the first amigurumis I made was the Tekubi doll from @pequicosas. I learned a lot from that pattern. Anyone who wants to start crocheting amigurumis, I recommend it. Another of my favorite patterns, and that I keep doing when I want to make some pattern that relaxes me, is the clutch of @santapazienzia.

Leaving a mark When you are aware of how we’re treating the planet, and the waste we generate, you can’t close your eyes and turn your back on the problem. I think that in the craft world you can do a lot for the environment: thanks to our creativity we can give a new life to many of the things that we have at home and that otherwise would end up in the garbage. Before we buy something, we should think if it’s really necessary or if we can reuse something that we already have.

Being inspired Nature is my greatest source of inspiration. Looking at the colors of flowers or the feathers of a bird, I can think of an idea to apply them to.

Creativity must also be encouraged, so practice is our best ally.

Following I love to follow accounts that aren’t related to the world of crochet, but are related to design and creativity, I would highlight @anniset and @drcuerda that make use of architecture to create original and visually powerful photos. The mixture of illustration and the use of everyday objects combined with an extra dose of imagination created by artists like @jesuso_ortiz makes me look at each object differently.

50

Kai, the eco-warrior surfer

Kai, which means sea or ocean in Hawaiian, is a defender of nature. When she goes out with her surfboard, she’s always on the lookout to pick up any trash found in the water. If you go to the beach (or anywhere), remember her and follow her example.

Materials

- Yarn: Catania cotton thread from Schachenmayr - 3 mm crochet hook - 4 or 5 mm safety eyes - Marker - Stuffing - Cardboard for the surfboard - 3 buttons for the dress

Measurements

- 20 cm (without the hat)

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet the pattern In this crochet pattern various techniques and stitches will be used. For the body and hair, we’ll use the amigurumi technique. The dress and accessories are crocheted in flat or in rows. After each round (or row) the work will have to be turned to start with the next round in the opposite direction. Before starting with the next round, a raised chain stitch will have to be made. This last won’t count in the total of stitches of that round.

Body Start crocheting from the bottom and in circle. Start with the thread of the color of the skin you’ve chosen.

R1: Mr + 6 sc inside (6).

R2: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (9).

R3 - R16: 1 sc in each st (9).

Change the color (color of the swimsuit) R17: 1 sc in each st (9).

R18: 1 sc *blo* in each st (9).

Pull the thread and cut it leaving a long tail.

Repeat the process (R1 - R18) to crochet the other leg just in the same way. On the second leg, don’t cut the thread and continue crocheting following the instructions from round 19.

R19: Crochet 3 ch ad join one to the other leg with 1 sc. Place the marker in that stitch. Continue crocheting 8 sc in the leg, 3 sc in each of the chain stitches of union, 9 sc in the next leg and finish with 3 sc in the other thread of the chain stitches from the bridge of union between the legs. With this, the two legs are joined and it has a total of 24 stitches.

R20: 1 sc in each st (24).

R21: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (30).

R22: [4 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (36).

R23 - R28: 1 sc in each st (36).

R29: [4 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (30).

R30 - R32: 1 sc in each st (30).

Stuff the body as you crochet.

R33: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24).

R34: 1 sc in each st (24).

Change the color (color of the skin).

R35: 1 sc *blo* in each st (24).

R36: [2 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (18).

R37: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12).

R38: [1 dec] x 6 (6).

From now on, continue crocheting the head. To reinforce the neck some wood sticks or wires can be introduced firmly in the part of the neck. Make sure that the edges don’t stand above or prick.

R39: [1 inc] x 6 (12).

R40: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18).

R41: [2 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (24).

R42: [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (30).

R43: [4 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (36).

R44: [5 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (42).

R45 – R51: 1 sc in each st (42).

The eyes are placed between rounds 46 and 47 with 8 stitches of separation between them. Place a marker here to know where the eyes have to be placed later.

Stuff the body as you crochet.

R52: [5 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (36).

R53: [4 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (30).

R54: [3 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (24).

R55: [2 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (18).

Finish stuffing the head.

R56: [1 sc, 1 dec] x 6 (12).

R57: [1 dec] x 6 (6).

Cut the thread leaving a long tail, long enough to bind off with a tapestry needle.

Arms (X 2) R1: Mr + 6 sc inside (6).

R3 - R19: 1sc in each st (6).

Before finishing each arm, stuff slightly the hand.

Once the rounds are finished, cut the thread leaving a long tail, long enough to sew the arm to the body between rounds 36-37 on each side of the body.

Hair Start crocheting the base of the hair.

R1: Mr + 6 sc inside (6).

From round 2 to round 14 crochet using the back loop only *blo*.

R2: *BLO* [1 inc] x 6 (12).

R3: *BLO* [1 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (18).

R4: *BLO* [2 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (24).

R5: *BLO* [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (30).

R6: *BLO* [4 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (36).

R7: *BLO* [5 sc, 1 inc] x 6 (42).

R8 - R14: 1 *blo* sc in each st (42).

From now on, crochet the curls of the hair and advance in the opposite direction to the one you’ve been crocheting so far, around the base of the hair, from round 14 to round 1. Hook the sts in the front loop of each st from the previous rounds.

Start crocheting 10 chain stitches and join the last one to the base of the hair with 1 sc in the next st. Continue with 1 sc in the next 2 sts. Repeat the process [10 chain stitches, join with 1 sc, 2 sc in the next sts] until finishing the base of the hair and getting to R1. Bind off and hide all the threads.

Dress Crochet in flat or in rows for the dress and frills. After each round (or row) turn the work to start crocheting the next round in the opposite direction. Before starting the next round, make a raised chain stitch, it won’t count in the total number of sts of that round.

R1: 26 ch.

R2: 1 sc, [3 sc, 1 inc] x 6, 1 sc. Until here there must be 32 sts. Now crochet 6 ch (or the number of ch needed according to the size of the button that will be used) that will work to make the buttonhole for the button.

R3: Hook the last ch with the first st of the next round with a sc in the front loop only (*flo*, continue with 1 sc *flo* in each st.

R4: 1 sc, [4 sc, 1 inc] x 6, 1 sc (38).

R5: 1 sc, [5 sc, 1 inc] x 6, 1 sc (44).

R6: 1 sc in each st (44).

R7: 1 sc *flo* in each st (44).

R8: 1 sc in each st (44).

Continue crocheting 6 ch. This will make the second buttonhole.

R9: Join the last ch to the last st of the previous row with 1 sc. Continue with 1 sc in each st (44).

R10: 1 sc in each st (44).

R11: 1 sc *flo* in each st (44).

R12 - 13: 1 sc in each st (44).

R14: 1 sc in each st (44).

Continue crocheting 6 ch. This will make the third buttonhole.

R15: Join the last ch to the last st of the previous row with 1 sc. Continue with 1 sc in each st (44).

R16: 1 sc in each st (44).

Bind off.

First frill R1: 30 ch (30).

R2: 1 sc in each st (30).

R3: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 15 (45).

R4 - R5: 1 sc in each st (45).

R6: [2 sc, 1 inc] x 15 (60).

R7 - R8: 1 sc in each st (60).

Bind off.

Second and third frill R1: 42 ch (42).

R2 - R3: 1 sc in each st (42).

R4: [1 sc, 1 inc] x 21 (63).

R5 - R7: 1 sc in each st (63).

R8: 1 sc in each st (63).

Bind off.

Sew each frill on the corresponding place of the dress joining each stitch of the frill with the thread that protrudes in the rounds that were crocheted with *flo*: - First frill in R3.

- Second frill in R7.

- Third frill in R11.

Sew the buttons on the corresponding place.

R9: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec (5).

R10: 1 sc in each st (5).

R11: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (3).

R12: 1 sc in each st (3).

R13: 1 dec, 1 sc (2).

R14: 1 dec (1).

Bind off.

Join the 2 pieces on the sides. Leave open the bottom part.

Base of the sailing boat (X 2) R1: 14 ch (14).

R2: 1 sc in each st (14).

R3: 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc (16).

R4: 1 sc in each st (16).

R5: 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc (18).

R6: 1 sc in each st (18).

Bind off.

Join the 2 pieces on the sides.

Place the sail inside the base of the sailing boat and join the base of both pieces together as shown in the next picture.

Surfboard The surfboard is crocheted in flat. After each round or row, turn the work to start crocheting the next round in the opposite direction.

Before starting the next round, make a raised chain stitch, it won’t count in the total number of sts of that round.

Sailing hat The sailing hat is also crocheted in rows.

After each round or row turn the work to start crocheting the next round in the opposite direction. Before starting the next round, make a raised chain stitch, it won’t count in the total number of sts of that round.

Top part or sail (X 2) R1: 13 ch (13).

R2: 1 sc in each st (13).

R3: 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec (11).

R4: 1 sc in each st (11).

R5: 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (9).

R6: 1 sc in each st (9).

R7: 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (7).

R8: 1 sc in each st (7).

R1: 5 ch (5).

R2: 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc (7).

R3: 1 inc in each st (7).

R4: 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (9).

R5 - R7: 1 sc in each st (9).

R8: 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc (11).

R9: 1 sc in each st (11).

R10: 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc (13).

R11 - R13: 1 sc in each st (13).

R14: 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc (15).

R15 - R22: 1 sc in each st (15).

R23: 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc (17).

R24 - R28: 1 sc in each st (17).

R29: 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec (15).

R30 - R32: 1 sc in each st (15).

R33: 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec (13).

R34 - R36: 1 sc in each st (13).

R37: 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec (11).

R38: 1 sc in each st (11).

R39: 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (9).

R40: 1 sc in each st (9).

R41: 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (7).

R42: 1 sc in each st (7).

R43: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec (5).

R44: 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (3).

R45: 1 dec, 1 sc (2).

R46: 1 dec (1).

Repeat the process from R1 to R46 to get another piece.

Use one of the mold pieces to draw and cut out a surfboard of the same size (or slightly smaller) using a sturdy piece of cardboard. If you don’t have thick cardboard, you can put several sheets of thinner cardboard until you get the desired strength for your board.

Join the 2 crocheted pieces by making single crochets along the edge. When you have half of it, insert the piece of cardboard with the shape of the surfboard as filler, and continue crocheting single crochets around the whole edge. When you reach the end, bind off, cut the thread and hide it in.

www.tananayarns.com

Tanana

54

Crochet

Yarns

Less than two years have passed and they’re gradually gaining recognition from a community that’s very demanding with the materials they acquire and the history behind them. Maria tells us how complicated it is, “we are very happy, but I have to admit that we have to dedicate many hours, both to knitting and to dyeing and everything that’s behind it. It’s a full time job, but not only for Lola and me, also for Migue, my right-hand man, who runs the web, dyes and supports me in every crazy idea that comes to mind. We work hard because we want this small company to one day become a brand that everyone recognizes.”

The main source of sales is their website and their store, Lola&Punto (in Granada), but they also have hanks distributed by some specialized stores in Spain and Chile. This is where those knitters who are looking for something different come to, as in Tanana’s catalogue it’s easy to find colors that aren’t the usual ones and even to almost personalize the skeins.

“I like to dye new colors often, but above all that my clients challenge me by telling me a combination of shades inspired by a photo and letting me experiment until I find the perfect skein.

It’s a very balanced way of matching the client’s tastes with ours and it makes me very happy when they say ‘that’s just what I wanted!’, to know that they’re happy with the result.”

ana

Yarnaholic is a word that defines all those who love to buy, treasure and love their wool collection. They never buy them out of necessity, even if that’s their main excuse, they’re always on the lookout for any new fiber and their storage capacity is always overflowing.

What’s the consequence of being a yarnaholic? Besides having to move to a bigger house often, you may end up creating a brand of wool. Yes, your own wool! The dream of every knitter that Lola and Maria, mother and daughter, started under the name of Tanana Yarns, a term that comes from the Malagasy language and is related to everything natural or handmade.

Its aim was clear, “we wanted to find different, high quality products and also artisan in a market where, if you want to stand out, you must innovate.”

It all started when Lola set up a wool shop in Granada, Spain (Lola & Punto). In her search for fiber brands that had a special touch, she opted for hand-dyed wools. She soon realized that this type of article was the one that the knitters liked the most, both for its original colors and its quality.

Later, María became pregnant and part of that experience was surrounded by people who made her admire this world. “In the summer, with my big belly, I suggested Lola to try dyeing our wool, and that’s when it all started. We always asked ourselves the same question when we found distributors with the quality fibers we were looking for: would we use it?, we started to try it. By reading books and search for information, we learned about the process of dyeing wool by hand and different techniques to create unique skeins.”

This mother and daughter’s day is a bit crazy, the shop or dyeing takes up more than those eight working hours, as they take their ideas with them everywhere or must be busy completing any administrative tasks. They knit during the week and dye at the end of this one, because in “Tanana’s House” they not only turn balls into a whole rainbow, they also make and sell knitted and crocheted patterns. “Knitting and designing is another story. Knitting a garment following a pattern is easy, the complicated part comes from wanting to design something that’s different and original. That means many hours of trial and error, making and unmaking, changing stitches, changing fibers, etc., all to get the idea of your head. Lola is a designer and I hope one day to be like her, to knit clothes as beautiful as hers.”

Something that characterizes them is the use of bold colors, the neon tones and the most striking, although they also work with softer colors and not for them less vibrant. They’re always looking for the highest quality and variety of wools to dye, always thinking about innovation. “Our future is surrounded by skeins, now also by cotton! We want to keep improving and learning new things, if you like something, it’s not difficult to dedicate your time (and energy) to it, and we love what we do!”

“Our future is surrounded by skeins, now also by cotton! We want to keep improving and learning new things, if you like something, it’s not difficult to dedicate your time. ”

Starting I think the best advice I can give is to be constant and put a lot of energy into the project, being aware that many things will have to be sacrificed in order to improve day by day. If what you’re doing makes you happy, all that effort will be compensated.

Knitting One thing we would like to change in the world of craft is the concept that because it’s handmade, it’s of lesser value. I firmly believe that the value of something so handcrafted should be treated as it deserves. Not only because of the process, but because of the hours that have to be dedicated to that garment, that skein or any other craft.

Leaving a mark One thing we would like to change in the world of craft is the concept that because it’s handmade, it’s of lesser value. I firmly believe that the value of something so handcrafted should be treated as it deserves. Not only because of the process, but because of the hours that have to be dedicated to that garment, that skein or any other craft.

Following I love @madamederosa not only because of her style but also because she has some photos that inspire me a lot when it comes to creating new colors. Of course I also follow all those wonderful knitters we have around the world!

58

Tarifa top

Inspired by Cádiz and its beaches in Tarifa, María dyed a skein especially for this project. She tried to have all the colors that the city evoked for her represented, “including the kite sails that at sunset fill the water with color like little specks on the horizon.”

Materials

- Yarn: 100 % Silk yarn by Tanana Yarns (100 g / 400 m). TERRA COLOR - 1 glitter ball - 3 mm crochet hook

Measurements

- M size - 56 long x 49 cm wide

Gauge

My 10 cm sample is made with 25 sts and 14 rounds

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to make the pattern

Pattern

This top is crocheted in two identical pieces that will be joined together later.

Cast on 36 ch and follow this scheme: The blank section represents the number of rounds to be crocheted to achieve the desired size, always following the sequence of graphic 1.

These pieces will form the neckline and the strips.

The bottom of the top is made with salmon stitch, but it is optional.

To start, you can see this first basic graphic to follow the sequence to be repeated throughout the whole body of the top:

Graphic 1

The right side of the chart always goes in a straight line (it’s the neckline part), but the left side grows and decreases freely (it’s the bottom edge) so we can make it as we wish.

The total number of rounds to be crocheted for size M are 57. If we adapt it to another size, we must take into account that in the end we’ll have to decrease just as the piece begins. (Go to graphic 2.)

Graphic 2

Once we’ve crocheted two identical pieces, face them to join one another through ch and sl st: Zigzag starting with sl st in the first section. In the second section make 2 ch between sl st and in the third section make 3 ch.

This seam will make the top flared. (Go to graphic 3).

When the two parts are sewn together, start with the neckline and shoulders. (Go to graphic 4.)

We crochet the front and back separately twice as both pieces are identical.

In case the top has been crocheted wider and has more than 57 rounds, we can adapt it by increasing the neckline on the single crochet round, but it’s very important that the decreases of the armholes and the neckline fit properly.

Once the two parts are finished and the strips have been crocheted, sew them. For the finishing touches we’ll use a double-strand composed of silk and another with glitter. (Go to the graphic 5 to make the edge of the neckline and strips.)

Measurements graphic 5 cm 6 cm

20 cm

25 cm

28 cm

40 cm

Graphic 3

Graphic 5

Graphic 4

@lauraalgarra

Laura

62

Crochet

Algarra

To define Laura Algarra’s style as a brand is to define her as a person. She confesses that she’s simple, sometimes too loud, cheerful and with a passion for the things she likes and dislikes. She tries to practice that ‘middle ground’ but it is difficult for her, “my brand is what I would like to see in the world, and a small creative corner for all those who enjoy sharing and having fun.”

This kindergarten teacher has moved a lot in life, from Utebo (Zaragoza, Spain) to London, UK, where she lived for 9 years, and now to Valencia, Spain. “I started in the craft world almost by accident, we created a little group to knit with a mother of the school I was working in. I learned how to make basic stitches and that’s where my apprenticeship as a two-needle knitter stayed. Another colleague was making amigurumis, and she told me that crocheting was easier, much faster and more suited to my restless personality. I bought all the hooks in the world, several wools and cottons, and stood in front of a YouTube channel. The first day I’d have thrown everything away, but something made me persist and I set out to try out patterns and practice. In less than a year I had already designed my first summer top, and from that moment on I couldn’t stop thinking about things I would like to do.”

She has fed her personality and esthetic style through reading. She’s attracted by everything cultural, going to museums and exhibitions, but also by everything “nerd” and absurd humor. From this eclectic mixture comes the inspiration to make a tapestry backpack of dinosaurs or simpler pieces, which have nothing to do with other dominated by the stitch that she’s obsessed with at that time.

On the other hand, communication isn’t bad for Laura and she shows it weekly in the interviews she does in her “Craftivity” podcast. Her goal is to spread, divulge and make known all the work behind projects in the craft world, all kinds of techniques and movements associated with them. “I believe that we’re a huge community of craft artists and that many of us are lost in the sea of social networks. As it’s a world in which it’s very difficult to survive economically, the culture of ‘step or be stepped on’ is growing and that makes me sad.

With the podcast I want to open a door to humankind, to see that we all have the same problems, to make our efforts and our work known beyond the noise that can make success.

And above all I would like to create a community of sincere support, to use all the visibility I can have in sharing other projects that I admire.”

Laur

The best things in life are often the result of chance. Laura uploaded her first picture of something crocheted to her personal Instagram account, which she hardly used at the time.

Thanks to that image, she decided to make her account public and thus the first chapter of Laura Algarra as a brand was born, a job that takes as many hours as the one she does for someone else.

She has attended courses and workshops of great designers, she is addicted to buying stitches manuals to practice and above all to understand the mathematics behind each step. “I think it’s fundamental to learn from those who know, to make their designs, to admire their work and to be aware that you can always learn more.” She also enjoys teaching, a space where she discovers as much as the students do, because she tries to overcome all the limits to give the best of what she’s learned throughout these years.

When it comes to creating, she has her own method. First she chooses the material and from there the game begins. A game where she combines different types of stitches, visits her craft library, notes down sequences, numbers, etc., until she finds something she likes. “That’s when I make a sketch of what I want to design: a T-shirt, a jacket or a sweater. Many times what ends up being has nothing to do with that initial sketch, but it gives me a sense of order, which helps me to keep going.” Laura makes all her patterns in different sizes, making samples that are essential when explaining a pattern and that are understandable to other people who live outside her mind.

Currently, she focuses her work as a maker on using her skills for something that concerns her more and more: the footprint we’re leaving on the planet. She’s a follower of the Crochet Hack movement, led

by English designer Emma Friedlander-Collins. “I’m lucky to be able to meet and be in touch with Emma, whom I admire and who has inspired me to follow this line of ‘creating more and consuming less’.” Many of my projects focus on this principle of reconverting old clothes with my crochet, but above all on disseminating the importance of crafts beyond a fashion, as a way of life, which we can easily incorporate into our daily lives.” Are you in?

Crocheting I choose my dinosaur bag, the Jurassic Bag. It’s something I don’t usually do, I’m more of a garment designer, not an accessory designer, but that design came out of a joke, a very happy moment, and it makes me smile every time I see it or think of it. I also recommend any pattern by Santa Pazienzia, you can appreciate all the work behind it and the effort to make it accessible and fun.

Leaving a mark Craft is being revalued because we’ve realized that we were very disconnected from reality, at a point where we need to reconnect with ourselves, with values that we understand and can apply in our daily lives.

Being inspired Going for a walk on a sunny day and the photos by @kutovakika.

Following I have a lot of fun following @tinycurl, I love her Cat Dance and her amigurumis. Also, I’m an absolute fan of @anniset and @drcuerda, two wonderful photographers who have me hooked. They make a great and very inspiring team.

“Many of my projects focus on this principle of reconverting old clothes with my crochet, but above all on disseminating the importance of crafts beyond a fashion, as a way of life, which we can easily incorporate into our daily lives.�

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Customized crocheted jacket

This isn’t a pattern, it’s an act of rebellion, Laura clarifies and invites us to practice upcycling. “In a society where we’re directed towards mass consumption of products, we knitters and crocheters have great power using our skills to create and minimize our footprint on the planet. Shall we start?

Materials

- Yarn: 100 % cotton yarn from Casasol (100 g) - 3 mm crochet hook - A denim jacket or other item that we want to personalize

Measurements

- The piece is customized on a garment of our usual size

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet the pattern In this project we’re going to customize a denim jacket replacing parts of it, specifically three panels, one rear and two front.

The measurements and stitches are those necessary for this specific model, but they can vary according to your size or the areas you want to replace.

We advise you not to throw away the scraps you cut, they can be useful for making patches and other mending.

Pattern We’ll start by measuring the back panel for part 1 of our project.

Make a chain stitch that is the same length as the base of the panel we’re going to replace, plus half a centimeter on each side (to be sewn later).

In this case a combination of V-stitches has been used, so make a chain multiple of 3 + 2.

Piece 1: Make 35 ch + 3.

R1: 1 dc in the fifth ch from the hook, 1 dc in all of them (35), 3 ch, turn.

R2: Skip 1 *(1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in the next stitch, skip 2, (3 dc) in the next stitch, skip 2. Repeat from * until the end. After the last round, skip just a stitch, make 1 dc in the last stitch (35), 3 ch, turn.

R3: *(3 dc) in the ch that we have in the V from the previous round, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in the dc that’s in the middle of the V from the previous round. Repeat from * until the end, finish with 1 dc in the last stitch (35), 2 ch. Turn.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until reaching round 27. Cut and hide all the threads in.

Reserve this piece.

Piece 2: In this jacket a piece was measured between the upper and lower pocket of the left front panel and the same process was followed. First, the base of the rectangle to be replaced was measured (it’s important to add half a centimeter on each side to sew it later).

Make 11 ch + 3 R1: 1 dc in the fifth ch from the hook, 1 dc in all of them (35), 3 ch, turn.

R2: Skip 1 *(1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in the next stitch, skip 2, (3 dc) in the next stitch, skip 2. Repeat from * until the end. After the last round, skip just a stitch, make 1 dc in the last stitch (35), 3 ch, turn.

R3: *(3 dc) in the ch that we have in the V from the previous round, (1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc) in the dc that’s in the middle of the V from the previous round. Repeat from * until the end, finish with 1 dc in the last stitch (11), 3 ch. Turn.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until reaching round 10. Cut and hide all the threads in.

Reserve this piece.

Piece 3: Do exactly the same, but this time with the top panel on the right front side of the jacket. This panel has an irregular shape, for this reason we’ve played with decreases so that it fits and it’s comfortable when worn.

It’s crocheted exactly the same as pieces 1 and 2 but on round 5, we used sl sts to adjust to the shape of the panel. Make as many sl st as necessary to reach the visible V-stitch and crochet in the same way as before.

We could make a rectangle just like the previous pieces, but it might be uncomfortable to wear.

Finishing touches Cut the panels to be replaced (remember not to cut the seams that hold the jacket together). We’ll use pins to secure the pieces in place. It’s very important that your cuts are as clean and neat as possible, as well as leaving half a cm of seam allowance.

We can then sew by hand using a thread similar to denim, use a sewing machine with a special needle for this fabric or opt for the use of textile glue.

As a last step, cut all the threads and bind off any loose ends.

68

Embroidery @srtalylo

SeĂąorita Lylo

is the one that she transmits to her students and now occupies all her time, relegating her work as a graphic designer; “it wasn’t an easy decision at all, but I considered that if I gave the space to what I wanted, more doors would open up on that path.”

This has forced her to rethink her daily life, organize priorities and order projects to which she previously devoted nights and weekends. In her diary are her classes at the legendary store Barcelona Duduá, prepare her third course at Doméstika, participate at events like the Handmade Festival and try not to leave behind those personal projects that she values so much; like travelling around Spain to meet more embroiderers and embroider together.

that’s very motivating for my curious hands.”

rta. ylo

In Loly Ghirardi’s business card would always come first her work as a graphic designer, however now the noun embroidery precedes it. This girl from Buenos Aires, Argentina, arrived in Barcelona, Spain, a city where she’s been living for eighteen years; “my final route was Madrid, but here I was caught by the sea and the mountains, as well as the financial freeze of my country.”

Señorita Lylo, the name she uses for her alter ego as an embroiderer, came later, even though it’s only been a year since she decided that this would be her only activity. The beginnings were casual, she learned from other embroiderers, monographic workshops, giving room to her own style. Later she started to share what the stitches had taught her.

And those lessons aren’t always physical actions, like threading a needle and knowing how to make a stitch, they go beyond. The meeting between Loly and embroidery is a story of “salvation” at bad moment, as she tells us, “I started embroidering to make myself friend of a balloon that blew up in my face when they told me I couldn’t be mother in a natural way and was going to need treatment.

This search, acceptance, frustrated desire was so uncomfortable that I needed to get out from that loop and start something new away from everything I was doing.

The embroidery came by chance, it made me forget those waits between the treatments and served as a refuge for me when they went wrong. Motherhood (sadly) didn’t come to my life, but what I’m convinced of is that my project is a genuine creation that without what I had lived wouldn’t have been born.”

That experience, which has allowed her cultivate patience and create,

Her activity as a graphic designer makes her connect with the embroidery on many creative levels.

What it never was in her plans was to teach; a task she performs both face-to-face and remotely, counting with almost twelve thousand students spread out for Spain, Argentina, Mexico, Chile or Colombia. “On site you can share a lot and show it, see how they learn or correct them in the moment; and a hug or a grateful look is an unpayable reward. But the online one has the magic of a community that is formed by all parts of the world; I have students who live in the middle of the mountain far away from the cities, cases of people overcoming diseases that find in this work a form of meditation, grandmothers and granddaughters, or mothers and daughters who do it together and thank me for the time I made them share. A thousand stories behind the screen that are mind-blowing!”

Between classes and collaborative work, there’s also time for creation.

She loves to improvise and make compositions from intuition, so she never knows how the final piece will be; “I decide a lot on the fly and

She defines her style as contemporary, as she likes to design under a concept, choose the materials, colors and stitches to represent what she wants to create. “For me embroidery is drawing with threads and at the end of each piece, beyond the drawing that can be observed, there’s something else: a collection of my hours and my days that are left there for always.”

One of her favorite projects, and the most personal until now, is “Di dove sei”, a set of typography, embroidery and memory; “through the stitches I pay homage to the women of my family, embroidering on clothes pieces of each one of them, the direction where we’ve born and where we’ve lived.” This work has several chapters: a scarf from her grandmother, a shirt sleeve and even a garment of her from the first period in Barcelona.

“This is my most ambitious project, where through stitches I connect different generations. They’re embroidered fabrics with a lot of memories and history and I hope that someday I make an exhibition.”

In her diary isn’t only marked the present, but also the future, even though her life philosophy isn’t to project long term doesn’t mean that she doesn’t have any challenges or little objectives. “I think that my biggest challenge is to create projects in which embroidery is the protagonist and that are loyal to my search and personal development.”

Luckily she has all the yarns meters of the world that she needs to achieve it.

Starting Even though I’ve been embroidering for more than 10 years, now I’m seeing it as such. The main thing for me is to be honest about what you do, about what you design and what you show.

Searching for originality in the message or product you want to make and give all of you to reflect on what you do.

Embroidery More than a favorite pattern, I have two stitches that I almost always use in my designs because I love their textures. The chain and the picot stitch, which provides volume and can represent many things.

Leaving a trace (in the craft world) The most important thing is honesty when it comes to creating, that your projects come out of concepts that support them, so you can develop them with consistency.

Following My latest discoveries of textile artists in networks were: Helen Wilde @ovobloom, Maryam Ashkanian @maryamashkanianstudio and finally, Han Cao @hanwriting.

For me embroidery is drawing with threads and at the end of each piece, beyond the drawing that can be observed, there’s something else: a collection of my hours and my days that are left there for always.”

“For me embroidery is drawing with threads and at the end of each piece, beyond the drawing that can be observed, there’s something else: a collection of my hours and my days that are left there for always.”

72

Sunflfl flower bag

This bag is the result of a collaboration between two designers and two techniques that complement each other perfectly: crochet and the embroidery. To Santa Pazienzia we owe the crocheted structure and to Miss Lylo, the embroidery.

The latter tells us that inspiration comes from the memory of a vacation. “One summer, in Menorca, we stopped on a road full of sunflowers. Thousands of them stood upright and in exact line. They moved subtly in the warm breeze, following and orienting their leaves, stems and flowers towards the sun.

Materials

Crochet -Yarn: 100 g cotton XL Casasol jade color and remains for the closing of camel color or the desired color - 5.50 mm crochet hook - 1 marker Embroidery - Yarn: 1 cotton cone L Casasol of mustard, orange, camel, chocolate and jade color - Embroidery needle

Measurements

- Bag base: 20 cm wide x 24 cm high

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet the pattern The bag is crocheted in a single spiral piece from the base in centered single crochet except for the first round, the second round and the round of the closing that will go in single crochet. The rounds are all crocheted in a round without being closed so we should use a marker to know where the start is.

Optionally, instead of the centered single crochet we can crochet it in “normal” single crochet or try the first option with a 5 mm crochet hook. We should alternate the area where the increases of each round have to be made so that they don’t match up on each other.

When the pattern says “make increases every 3 stitches,” means making 2 stitches and the 3rd is where the increase is made.

If it says “making increases every 5 stitches”, means that 4 stitches are crocheted and increase by the 5th stitch, and so on.

On the last round, a puckered closure system will be placed (to know more go to glossary).

Two types of stitches have been used for embroidery: the picot and the French knot.

Pattern Crocheted part R1: cast on a mr of 5 sc.

R2: crochet 2 sc in each stitch (10).

From now on we are going to crochet on centered single crochet.

R3: all in csc making inc one stitch and not in the other one (15).

R4: all in csc making inc every 3 sts (20).

R5: all in csc making inc every 4 sts (25).

R6: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

R7: all in csc making inc every 5 sts (30).

R8: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

R9: all in csc making inc every 6 sts (35).

R10: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

R11: all in csc making inc every 7 sts (40).

R12: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

R13: all in csc making inc every 8 sts (45).

R14: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

R15: all in csc making inc every 9 sts (50).

R16 - R31: all in csc WITHOUT increases.

It’s time to place the ribbon for the closure. Don’t cut yet the thread with which you’re crocheting.

Placing the puckered closure Cut 4 strips of 65 cm from the cotton with which we’re going to make the closing.

We’ll work them in pairs.

Flatten the bag and leave the round beginning on one side.

Place two strips folded in half so that the tips are on the right and the other two, folded in the same shape and on the left side.

Crochet in sc hiding the threads that will act as a closure by letting the ends of the strips come out at each end.

When you’re done, close with a sl st and cut the thread.

Knot the ends of the strips and cut them to the same length.

Further instructions for closing in the glossary (last pages published).

Embroidered part Picot stitch:

French knot:

The first line of picot is the one close to the brown semicircle. Make 8 picot stitches with mustard thread using two strands.

Continue with the second line of petals, using two strands but this time combining the two shades (a mustard one and another in orange color). These stitches should be interspersed with the previous line of stitches.

Finish with 3 centered picot stitches interspersing the above in mustard color.

The width of the petals is approximately 1.50 cm and the length between 3.50 and 5 cm.

74

Crochet and knitting www.dospuntshop.es

DosPunts

become a real possibility; walking around the Horta neighbourhood, I saw the premises of what is now the shop with a ‘for rent’ sign and the shutter half down. That same afternoon I visited it and it was like a crush. I always say that it was a kamikaze decision because, a month and a half later, I opened the store.

During the first year I only worked in the evenings and on Saturdays all day, since I was combining two jobs, until it started working and I was able to dedicate myself to it full time.”

this space, very different people learning at the same time, from the age of 9 to 99! “People of all ages come to the classes, with very different interests and tastes. The workshops that we offer are monographic and the clients can choose the theme the day that they want, giving themselves a workshop with four assistants in which each one chooses a different theme.”

osP

Summer season is always a good time for great adventures, whether we want it or not. Perhaps it’s the time that slows down, everything is seen differently and moments arise when one stops. This space gave Alba the opportunity to start a new project, DosPunts, one of the most renowned notions store in Barcelona.

“The name came up before having the shop, during the summer holidays of 2013. Those months I crocheted again, throwing myself into making amigurumis. I spent 15 days without stopping, going back to the technique my mother taught me as a child; fighting with the magic circle, with the finishing touches and with the uniform stitching. When I came back, I still didn’t let go of the needle, so that’s when I decided to participate in two fairs. Both were the following year and almost like a game, in 2014 I decided to name the ones my mother and I were making. I wanted the name to reflect the union of the two, DosPunts was one of the first to come out. Even now, when people ask me, it makes my hair stand on end, because to me it means more than just a shop.

First it was the name and then came the notions store, in one of those vital “serendipities” that rarely occur, but that change us forever. Alba was working in a museum, the idea of opening a wool shop had always been around her, more like a fantasy in which she imagined herself selling buttons and coloured threads, than a tangible project. However, one day she discovered that the place where they used to buy materials had been transferred, she asked, and then she continued to investigate. The distant idea had

Alba, with the help of her family, has created a very special place that makes everyone who steps into DosPunts not forget it. They’ve just completed their first five years of life, something complicated in this sector.

What are the keys to their success?

These craft enthusiasts have a clear idea of the neighbourhood and its people, choosing materials that only they would work with and, above all, their store windows. From the very first one, all of them have been thematic and referring to the four seasons of the year, plus the Christmas special; “I think that the ones I have to buy are a fiber that catches our attention, either because of its quality, its color or its texture, and the best way to express it is to give the prominence to it rather than the brand behind it.”

In addition to selling all kinds of material for handmade projects, they offer face-to-face workshops and weekly knitting and crochet classes for all ages. This is one of the novelties of

Not only do they work in a physical space, they also have an online shop and usually attend fairs such as Creativa, the Handmade Festival or others held in the neighborhood itself; “because DosPunts is just that, a small shop in the Horta neighborhood. I’ll never get tired of saying it.

Every week someone appears telling you that they want to start crocheting. There are customers who have been there since the beginning and it’s curious to see how they’ve evolved with their projects, from refusing to crochet a piece of clothing because they consider it almost impossible to not being able to stop they can’t stop.

It’s very nice and gratifying to see how the public is growing with the store.

“T here are customers who have been there since the beginning and it’s curious to see how they’ve evolved with their projects. I t’s very nice and gratifying to see how the public is growing with the store.”

Crocheting I hardly have any projects designed by me, I prefer to crochet patterns from different designers. So it’s difficult to choose, I’m fond of them all, but there’s a very special store window that marked a before and after in DosPunts: that of the Flamencos of summer of 2018.

Leaving a mark The client is noticing the effects of fast fashion in comparison with a hobby that most people use to forget about stress. In the physical store those who know me, know that I always recommend not to take more material than necessary. It’s a gesture that they appreciate, because they’ll be able to crochet what they take with them without feeling overwhelmed.

Being inspired Especially in art, I’m amazed at Frida Kahlo, her history and her work; or the painter Mark Rothko, it’s amazing to see his work live and how with color he transmits so much when you see his paintings.

Also in many photo accounts, in walks around the city and in places that sometimes, without knowing it, mark us and we end up capturing it without hardly noticing it.

Following I love the @colorpalette.cinema account! Especially, how, through film frames, they bring out ranges of colors. There are a lot of them that I’ve saved and that I use both for projects and for store windows.

78

Poppy Headband

Crowning yourself with crocheted flowers and leaves is the most fun option for a crafter. When making this decoration you can wear it on a headband or on a comb.

Alba recommends us to adjust the headband to the hair with two simple hairpins, but if more fastening is required, we can sew a comb or stick a metallic headband.

You are free to set your own style with it!

Materials

How to crochet the pattern

- 100 % cotton yarn: CablĂŠ 5 from Mondial. Colors: red, green, yellow and black.

- 2.5 mm crochet hook - Metallic headband, one comb or two hairpins

This headband is crocheted by making all the flowers and leaves separately. In this case, 5 poppies and 18 leaves have been crocheted, but the number of flowers and leaves can be changed depending on how big and thick you want your headband.

Measurements

Pattern

- It varies according to the size of the headband to be worn

Skill level

- Intermediate

Poppy. Center of the flower: In yellow: R1: Mr of 6 sc R2: 6 sc Change to black color R3: 6 inc of sc worked in BLO Change to red color to crochet the petals x 4: R1: Work in FLO. Make a ch, 2 sc together, 2 hdc together x 3, 2 sc together R2: 2 raising ch and work in BLO, 2 hdc together x 2, 6 hdc, 1 hdc together x 2 R3: 2 raising ch, 1 dec of a hdc, 10 hdc, 1 dec of a hdc R4: 1 raising ch, 1 dec of a sc, 8 sc, 1 dec of a sc

Start the next petal after the first one always repeating the sequence from R1 to R4. The poppy has a total of 4 petals, first the two in the middle are crocheted and then the two at the back.

To crochet the two back petals, the back strand is worked by taking half of the already crocheted petal. This way the back petals are superimposed, giving volume to the flower.

Leaves x 10 13 ch. Skip 1 ch and start crocheting on the second: 1 sl st, 2 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc and 1 sl st. Turn and repeat the sequence.

Finish with 1 sl st. Leave a long tail to sew the leaves with the poppies in the assembly.

Assembly It’ll be sewn like a mosaic. We recommend making different types of compositions, so that we know before sewing if we have to crochet any more leaves or poppies.

Use the leftover threads from the leaves to join them to the poppies.

www.diy.2ndfunniestthing.com

2nd funniest

80

Upcycling

T hing

nd unni Marta was born with the creative gene, she owes it to a father who is half an inventor, a mother who is always thirsty for knowledge, a grandmother who is a seamstress and a grandfather who is a horticulturist; “in my environment there’s an opportunity every day to do it yourself”. So, naturally, for this Barcelona-born woman “the 2nd funniest thing” in this world is creating, whether designing or editing from a computer, sawing, sewing, painting or sowing.

Goal achieved thanks to 2nd Funniest Thing, and to the community of “makers” who feed it by making what she proposes through its tutorials.

“My web is a loudspeaker to claim making as a form of environmental activism through DIY projects, opinion videos and even media advice.”

She combines this activity with the creation of video content for projects related to sustainability.

Her projects have a purpose beyond enjoying a hobby, they provide ideas for self-producing what we need or simply wish on a whim, based on supposed waste. “The intention is to generate esthetic and functional objects, while provoking reflection about what we use and what we throw away.”

2nd Funniest Thing has become an essential tool for all those interested in making the world a more environmentally friendly place.

On this website we can find an open bar of tutorials to achieve this objective; from tricks to reduce our plastic footprint, furniture with recycled materials to the creation of a sustainable

aromatics planter thanks to upcycling. Although the favourite project of this ecological activist is a “supra recycled” light curtain that she made for CaixaForum. This is a 12 x 6 metre installation in which the plastic waste generated by four family units was reused for half a year, “it was created in situ in a collaborative way by those attending the event. Magic.”

But is it really possible to live without leaving a toxic footprint? Marta answers us clearly and tells us what are the essential steps, according to her experience, to start the battle for the environment. “Living pollutes. It happens to all species. But as members of the human race, we should urgently reduce our impact by rethinking our forms of production and consumption. Step number one, decarbonize our societies by immediately switching to sources of clean energy. Step number two, reduce the consumption of animal products.

Step number three, vote and support environmentalists. Step number four, don’t freak out and only look at small steps that are feasible so you don’t end up giving up.”

The steps are clear, now what? It seems that environmental awareness is here to stay, it’s a fact and one of the biggest challenges of the 21st century, as Marta tells us. “This awareness inevitably leads to a shift from a passive consumer, that is, one who is given everything, to an active one.

When you worry about the environment, you end up repairing and creating many of the things you need.

From sewing inventions, electronics or DIY, to growing your own food.”

Environmentalism as a collective value, waste as a treasure, craft as the only weapon that doesn’t kill.

Creating a better world is in our hands.

Recycling Peeled tetrabriks are a resistant, esthetic and free material. The tutorial I share here is an example of how such a difficult waste to recycle can solve many needs at home.

Leaving a mark Whatever you do, collectivize it. This isn’t about you, you’re just a channel to pass on knowledge.

Following If you’re interested in DIY projects and recycling: @laura_kampf, @benjaminuyeda @tomsachs, @materfad, @backtoeco and @damarstudio.

Being inspired As easy as crossing what I need at a certain time, with what my retina has been receiving. It could be the last exhibition, video clip or fanzine I’ve seen. Having a culturally active life especially full at the level of inspiration.

“My web is a loudspeaker to claim making as a form of environmental activism through DIY projects, opinion videos and even media advice. �

84

Crocheters’ tools organizer

Keep this in your idea cellar. Peeling tetrabriks is cool, everyone should try it! Here’s a tutorial on how to create a useful “tetrabriks” organizer, which can be used for both cables and make-up brushes. It’s all yours.

Materials

- Empty and clean tetabrik - Cord yarn - Sewing machine - Ribbon - Elastic band - Paint brush - White glue - Water-based varnish - Remnant of fabric - Cutter - Cutting surface - Ruler

Measurements

- Depending on the size of the tetrabrik

Skill level - Beginner

Instructions Unfold the tabs, cut off the top and bottom of the brik and open it to obtain a rectangular plate.

Once done, crumple it up and smooth it out again.

Steps Unfold the tabs, cut off the top and bottom of the brik and open it to obtain a rectangular plate.

Remove the layer of laminated paper by pulling it out from a corner little by little, without forcing it.

Varnish the cardboard side.

Glue the remnant on the aluminum face.

When it’s completely dry, cut off the excess fabric and sew a ribbon in the centre of the cardboard face, giving an extra 40 cm so that the needle guard can be closed later.

Coser todo el perĂ­metro

Sew up the entire perimeter.

Sew an elastic band on the inside, so that it holds the tools that you’re going to keep inside.

It can be closed using the ribbon, as seen in the image of the final result. And now, next time you go to retire a tetrabrik, remember the amount of joy it could bring.

These are resources, not waste!

86

Call for talent @showroomcrochet

ShowroomCrochet

Kenya Rodríguez lives in Murcia, she created ShowroomCrochet in 2016 as a form of expression, and in the hope of sharing her own designs. Her dream is to be part of the handmade community, to be able to collaborate with others designers she admires and to participate at sector events.

Size

Lenght

Chest

Length from the sleeve to the armhole

Sleeve Width

Neck

Wool approx.

0-3 months

25 cm / 9.8 in 30 cm / 11.8 in

44 cm / 18.5 in

14 cm / 5.5 in

10 cm / 3.9 in

200 g (220 m / 721.7 ft)

50 cm / 19.7 in 60 cm / 23.6 in 64 cm / 25.2 in 68 cm / 26.8 in 72 cm / 28.3 in

16 cm / 6.3 in

7 cm / 2.8 in 9 cm / 3.5 in

12 cm / 4.7 in 13 cm / 5.11 in 14 cm / 5.5 in 15 cm / 5.9 in 15 cm / 5.9 in

300 g (330 m / 1082.6 ft) 400 g (440 m / 1443.5 ft) 500 g (550 m / 1804.5 ft) 600 g (660 m / 2165.3 ft) 700 g (770 m / 2526.2 ft)

6-12 months 1-2 years

She’s one of the three designers who have presented their patterns exclusively to be published in The Sewing Box. Specifically, the Lola sweater in children version inspired by her grandmother and whose most striking feature is the detail of the three frills.

Materials

Age approx.

3-4 years 4-6 years 7-8 years

35 cm / 13.8 in 40 cm / 15.7 in 44 cm / 17.3 in 47 cm / 18.5 in

How to crochet the pattern

- Yarn: between 200 g and 700 g depending on the size of the wool (worsted aran thickness) - 5 mm crochet hook - One button

The sweater is crocheted from the neck down. At the beginning of each round 3 chain stitches are crocheted. These will count as the first stitch of the round.

Measurements

R1: crochet 46 (54-58-62-66-70) ch, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, 4 (5-5-6-6-7) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 6 (8-9-10-1112) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12 (14-1616-18-18) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 6 (8-9-10-11-12) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 6 (7-7-8-8-9) dc, turn the work. 52 (60-6468-72-76) sts.

R2: 3 ch, 6 (7-7-8-8-9) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 8 (10-11-12-13-14) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 14 (16-18-18-20-20) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 stitches, 8 (10-11-12-13-14) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 7 (8-8-9-9-10)

- Consult table

Gauge

- 13 sc x 6 rounds in 10 of 10 cm

Skill level

- Intermidiate

Pattern

18 cm / 7 in 22 cm / 8.7 in 25 cm / 9.8 in 30 cm / 11.8 in

9 cm / 3.5 in 10 cm / 3.9 in 10 cm / 3.9 in 11 cm / 4.3 in

dc, join to 1st stitch of the round with a slip stitch. 60 (68-72-76-80-84) sts.

From now on crochet in round.

At the end of each round join the last stitch with the first one with a sl st.

For size 1 go to “part 2” R3: 3 ch, 8 (8-9-9-10) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12 (13-14-15-16) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 18 (20-20-22-22) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12 (13-14-15-16) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 9 (9-10-10-11) dc. 76 (80-84-88-92) sts.

R4: 3 ch, turn the work, 10 (10-11-11-12) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 stitches, 14 (1516-17-18) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 20 (22-22-24-24) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts. 14 (15-16-17-18) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 10 (10-11-11-12) dc. 84 (88-92-96-100) sts.

For size 2 go to “part 2” R5: 3 ch, turn the work, 10 (11-11-12) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 17 (18-19-20) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 24 (24-26-26) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 17 (18-19-20) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 11 (12-12-13) dc. 92 (100104-108) sts.

For size 3 go to “part 2” R6: 3 ch, turn work, 13 (13-14) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 20 (21-22) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 26 (28-28) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 20 (21-22) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12 (12-13) dc. (108-112-116) sts.

R7: 3 ch, turn the work, 13 (13-14) sts, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 22 (23-24) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 28 (30-30) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 22 (23-24) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 14 (14-15) dc. 116 (120-124) sts.

Part 2 R1: Crochet this round in FLO. 1 ch, 2 hdc in the next st, 7 (10-11-14-15) hdc, 3 dc in the next 12 (18-21-26-27-28) sts, 18 (24-28-32-34-34) hdc, 3 dc in the next 12 (18-21-26-27-28) sts, 9 (12-13-16-16-17) hdc. Secure and cut the thread.

R2: Crochet this round in BLO from the non-crocheted chain from the previous round, join the new yarn in the first stitch from the previous round, 3 ch, dc in the same stitch, 6 (9-10-13-14) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 10 (16-19-24-25-26) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 16 (22-26-30-32-32) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 10 (16-19-24-25-26) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 8 (11-12-15-16) dc. 68 (92-104-124-128-132) sts.

R3: 3 ch, 8 (11-12-15-15-16) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12(18-21-26-27-28) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 18 (24-28-32-34-34) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 12 (18-21-2627-28) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 9 (12-1316-16-17) dc. 76 (100-112-132-136-140) sts.

R4: Crochet this round in FLO. 1 ch, 2 hdc in the next st, 9 (12-13-16-17) hdc, 3 dc in the next 16 (22-25-30-31-32) sts, 22 (28-32- 36-38-38) hdc, 3 dc in the next 16 (22-25-30-31-32) sts, 11(14-15-18-19) hdc. Secure and cut the thread.

For sizes 1 and 2 R5: Crochet this round in BLO from the non-crocheted chain from the previous round, join the new yarn in the first stitch from the previous round. 3 ch, dc in same st, 74 (98) dc. 76 (100) sts.

R6: Separate the body from the sleeves. 3 ch, 12 (15) dc, skip 12 (18) sts, 26 (32) dc, skip 12 (18) sts, 13 (16) dc. 52 (64) sts.

R2: crochet this round in FLO. 1 ch, 2 hdc in the next st, 3 dc in the next 14 (20-2530-31-32) sts, 2 hdc. Secure and cut.

For sizes 3, 4, 5 and 6 R5: Crochet this round in BLO from the non-crocheted chain from the previous round, join the new yarn in the first stitch from the previous round. 3 ch, dc in same st, 12 (15-15-16) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 23 (28-29-30) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 30 (34-36-36) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 23 (28-29-30) dc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 14 (17-17-18) pt. 120 (140-144-148) sts.

R6: Separate the body from the sleeves. 3 ch, 17 (20-20-21) dc, skip 23 (28-29-30) sts, 38 (42-44-44) dc, skip 23(28-29-30) sts, 18 (21-21-22) dc. 74 (84-86-88) sts.

R3: Crochet this round in BLO from the non-crocheted chain from the previous round, join the new yarn in the first stitch from the previous round. 3 ch, dc in same st, 16 (22-27-32-33-34) dc, turn the work.

18 (24-29-34-35-36) sts.

Size 1 R4-9: 3 ch, 17 dc, turn the work.

Size 2 R4-11: 3 ch, 23 dc, turn the work.

Size 3 R4-7: 3 ch, 28 dc, turn the work.

R8: 3ch, dec of dc, 6 dc, dec of dc, 8 dc, dec of dc, 6 dc, dec of dc, turn.

R9-12: 3 ch, 24 dc Size 4 R4-7: 3 ch, 33 dc, turn the work.

R8: 3ch, dec of dc, 8dc, dec of dc, 9 dc, dec of dc, 8 dc, dec of dc, turn.

R9-14: 3 ch, 29 dc Size 5 R4-7: 3 ch, 34 dc, turn the work.

R8: 3 ch, dec of dc, 8 dc, dec of dc 10 dc, dec of dc, 8 dc, dec of dc, turn.

R9-16: 3 ch, 30 dc.

Size 6 R4-7: 3 ch, 35 dc, turn the work.

R8: 3 ch, dec of dc, 8dc, dec of dc, 11 dc, dec of dc, 8 dc, dec of dc, turn.

R9-18: 3 ch, 31 dc R10-12-13-15-17-19: change color to crochet the border, 2 ch, hdc in the same st, 17 (23-24-29-30-31) hdc. 18 (24-2530-31-32) sts. Secure and cut.

Body R7: Continue with the body of the sweater. 3 ch, 51 (63-73-83-85-87) dc, turn the work. In total 52 (64-74-84-86-88) sts.

R8: repeat V7 Size 1: R9-14: 3 ch, 51 dc. Turn the work at the end of every round.

Size 2: R9-15: 3 ch, 63 dc. Turn the work at the end of every round.

Size 3: R9-16: 3 ch, 73 dc. Round the work at the end of every round.

Size 4: R9-18: 3 ch, 83 dc. Turn the work at the end of every round.

Size 5: R9-20: 3 ch, 85 dc. Turn the work over at the end of every round.

Size 6: R9-22: 3 ch, 87 dc. Turn the work at the end of every round.

R15-16-17-19-21-23: change color to crochet the border, 2 ch, 51 (63-73-8385-87) hdc. 52 (64-74-84-86-88) sts.

Secure and cut.

Neck To crochet the edge of the neck join again the thread in the central dc of the back of the sweater, 2 ch, 5 (6-6-7-7-8) hdc, dec of hdc, 6 (8-9-10-11-12) hdc, dec of hdc, 12 (14-16-16-18-18) hdc, dec of hdc, 6 (89-10-11-12) hdc, dec of hdc, 6 (7-7-8-7-9) hdc. Secure and cut. Sew the button.

Sleeves R1: Join again the thread in the stitch under the armhole as shown in the photo, crochet 3 ch, crochet 1 dc on the dc of previous rounds, 14 (20-25-30-31-32) dc, dc in the other on the dc, dc in the last stitch. 18 (24-29-34-35-36) sts.

Weave in the yarn end with the help of a tapestry needle.

88

Call for talent @mariamaihandmade

mariamai

María Tapia from Alicante also joins our call for talent. She created Mariamai in April 2019 to share with others her passion for crochet. She dreams about the recognition of this art as such and even about it having its space in the educational system, “there are very good designers doing wonders with these techniques and updating the vision we have of them.”

The home tapestry is inspired by the sensations of feeling at home, not just as a physical place but as “that that we create from our being, our place in the world.”

Materials

How to crochet the pattern

Measurements

Pattern

- Cotton L from Casasol - 3 mm crochet hook - Tapestry needle - 65 cm approx. natural wood stick

- 60 high x 40 wide

Skill level

- Intermediate

Crochet separately each rectangle using the tapestry technique following the graphic pattern. Each rectangle has 72 starting chain stitches and are crocheted in dc.

Once the rectangles are finished, make the edges this way: In the last stitch where we have the last dc, make a hdc and a sc, then make sc all around the edge. In the stitch of the corners make 3 sc at the same stitch to shape the corner, continue like this until surrounding the whole rectangle.

In the last hdc of the previous round make 3 sc in the same stitch and from then start to make sl st around the whole rectangle.

Close with a simple stitch using the tapestry needle to disguise the end.

Once all the rectangles are bound off, join them and sew them on the back with a tapestry needle. For that take the threads that are behind so that the drawing that has been formed with the sl st isn’t altered.

Then sew the tapestry to the stick using a tapestry needle. In this case the color of the letters was used and the tapestry needle was passed twice through the same stitch to make it double. Sew by the stitch that is in the top so that you don’t lose the edge created in sl st.

Cast on about 100 ch or as many as needed depending on the length we want to hang the tapestry. With these chain stitches make the strip with which it will be hung (leaving the excess yarn on both sides.) Finally, with the help of the tapestry needle, sew each end leaving approximately two fingers on each side so that it doesn’t pull from the corners.

We have the tapestry ready, a whole mantra to hang anywhere in the house.

90

Knowing Carmen García de Mora @carmengarciademora www.carmengarciademora.com

Knowing Carmen García de Carmen García de Mora is one of the designers that knows more about knitting. She knows the whole process in such a detailed and versatile way that more than a profession it’s a mystical feeling.

She’s a bridge between brands and the world of design, a university professor and she gives workshops all over Spain for those interested in discovering the secrets of a millenary art: knitting.

Fotos: @parpadoscansados

Mora

We’d recognize any of your designs at first glance, but who’s behind your brand and what has been your trajectory beyond the craft world?

The truth is that I’ve never considered my work as a brand, but if it were, behind it there’s a girl who above all loves to knit, design, stories and small details.

Could it be that little by little and between needles and skeins you’ve built up a brand?

I was learning to knit while studying engineering in industrial design. Design already fascinated me, however, when threads and the diversity of textile techniques and structures came into the picture, an infinite world and curiosity opened up for me.

In the summer of my second year at university, my very close friend and I decided to walk around the West of Ireland and sell hand-knitted accessories. After the failure of the first day when they didn’t even look at us, we started selling so much that we had to ask for more threads from Spain. The colored pieces from the

Mediterranean caused a sensation in Ireland. We came back after 2 months of resounding success with the feeling that we could do whatever we wanted.

Since then, my career has always advanced between threads, although not always in the craft world, but also in the industrial one. When I finished my degree, I was lucky enough to study a master’s degree in Industrial Knitting Design at the IED in Madrid.

This gave me the possibility to work as a consultant in industrial knitting factories, acting as a bridge between knitting factories and designers. On the other hand, being a professor at the university I’ve been lucky enough to participate in Shima Seiki training, which has brought me closer to the programming of knitting machines and the latest generation of knitting design.

How would you define your style as a designer?

I try to anticipate the needs of the moment and be as flexible as possible.

Perhaps because one of my greatest motivations is to inspire and spread

the love for details. I started designing patterns, with the intention of giving knitters tools to develop their own creativity with joy. My designs try to show paths in which to bring fantasy to reality. I try to have a free and flexible style that takes care and gives value to the details.

When did you start knitting? Is this your full-time job? How has it affected your creative process?

It was my grandmother Carmina who taught me how to knit. Since then the act of knitting gives wings to my creativity.

From the very beginning until today, knitting is a means of expression and understanding for me. Knitting is like a magnifying glass with which I go deep into my ideas, my creativity and even the people. There are fabrics that move me, that make me feel something. It isn’t about the style or the time, but the person, the woman or the man who has knitted it and with whom, although perhaps I don’t coincide neither in the place, nor in the time, nor in the beliefs, I feel that I have much in common.

Making my passion my profession hasn’t always been easy. I’ve sacrificed many things to work on what I love and it has been worth it. It’s a way of living in which I needed to believe in myself, fundamentally. What has helped me to do this is to collaborate in different areas, with different projects and groups of people. This way I’ve been able to develop extensively in many ways. When I found myself with insurmountable barriers in one project, in another, perhaps of another area, it was possible to overcome them.

Tell us about your job at the university, what’s your specialty? In which projects are you working on right now?

For six years I’ve been teaching the subject of knitting projects at the ESDI University in Sabadell, Spain. I teach knitting projects in the Fashion Design degree. I teach knitwear and fabric design, starting manually and ending with knitting machines.

Designing the structure of knitwear is fascinating and understanding it opens up a world of infinite possibilities. We have a workshop with several mechanical knitting machines and a formidable workshop teacher who knows all the ins and outs and with whom I continue to learn every day.

Right now I’m also working on two personal collaborations that will come to light very soon. The truth is that I always love to collaborate with designers, producers or brands that I feel comfortable with.

On the other hand, I look forward to continuing travelling around the Spanish peninsula to give workshops and meet knitters who want to know more about what happens between their needles when they follow or invent a pattern.

Not long ago I moved to the outskirts of Madrid, in the mountains. As soon as I have some free time I would like to look for small manufacturers and knitwear designers in the surroundings of Madrid, to continue collaborating in the industrial world.

In addition to the regulated training, as you told us, you give workshops in different cities. How do you approach these workshops? Who are they aimed at? Which are the most demanded projects?

Yes! They’re aimed to all the knitters that want to learn more about what and why of what happens between their needles when they follow a pattern.

The more we understand, the more we enjoy it. It’s like cinema, art or any other media... when you know why and the mysteries of the technique a complicity with the pattern and with the designer is established and a new learning begins in each piece you knit, it’s more fertile.

It’s also aimed to those knitters who encounter problems in pattern standards, and would like to learn how to modify them to their liking. And of course those who want to design their own garments.

There are theoretical and practical workshops. They’re all focused on providing tools of understanding and autonomy when it comes to knitting and designing a pattern.

Where do you find inspiration? What do you do or where do you go when you need a creative impulse?

I find inspiration in nature and in the everyday life. I get lost in the details, in their stories and in their harmonies. I don’t need something extraordinary to inspire me. I have a lively imagination, but my creative impulse takes shape as I knit. The act of knitting orders my ideas and gives shape to the message I want to convey and around which everything revolves. The first thing I clear in my mind when I start a new project is the message I want to convey.

What is your favorite project and how did the design come about?

The truth is that my favorite project is the one I have now between my hands. Projects are like books, the best one in each moment is the one I have in my hands at that moment.

Once it’s finished, a lot of the fun is over. I’m a knitter that loves knitting, wearing my garment and to show it off from time to time, but the most fun for me is to see how it’s created between my hands, for that reason my favorite project changes with each project that I begin. Almost always.

How is a normal day in Carmen’s house/atelier/studio/mind?

Every day is different! Between trips, classes, meetings, patterns, knitting and undoing, testing and drawing.

Seeing and feeling everything I can.

What would you claim through crafts? By the way, are they modernizing or is there a craft bubble?

Finally, could you give us a piece of advice to get started in the textile design world?

I claim the genuineness of each person, the free creativity as a quality of each human being, the love for details, the perfection of imperfection, the rhythm of time, the time for each thing, the time to tell and listen to their stories, the complicity between the knitters and the shelter that the manual fabric is for the body and the soul.

Confidence and sincerity with yourself, self-knowledge, deciphering your message, knowing your strengths and how it satisfies you to share them, as well as seeking help and allies in your weaknesses. It’s complicated to know how to do everything well, a good team is fundamental. Besides always being prepared to change and improve. Flexibility, in my opinion, is always a great ally.

I believe that like everything else, craft also transforms and evolves as time goes by, continuing its history, but its beginnings always remain imprinted for those who know how to read them.

What are the biggest challenges you face as a business owner? What are your hopes and dreams for the future of your brand?

My biggest challenges are to have an organization and a balance of both workload and income. The daily organization when your profession is your passion, and also your own company, makes it difficult to disconnect completely to take a rest.

Can you recommend two artists that you particularly admire or are inspired by?

The truth is that there are many artists and artisans who inspire me, but there aren’t many I follow faithfully and with whom I really identify.

However, there’s one artist who especially moves me, whose vision and sensitivity inspire me and give me direction: Teresa Lanceta. She shows how textile art is an art linked to life, which accounts for the passing of time, which incorporates stories and facts.

“Making my passion my profession hasn’t always been easy. I’ve sacrificed many things to work on what I love and it has been worth it. ”

96

Knit bird

Carmen’s project is a headband inspired by the spontaneity of the relationship between nature and women. The mountains, forests and fields as a home and refuge for a life in harmony with the surroundings and the wild and spontaneous aspect of every living being.

“With this you can walk along beaches, climb mountains, go on picnics, go for miles or take long naps. In any of these cases it’ll remind you that the force of nature is in you and with you.”

It’s knitted flat and then both sides are sewn. You’ll find and explanation in 2 sizes, one for girls and one for adults.

Materials

- Yarn: option A, summer, 1 ball of 3-ply Lino Flame from Casasol. Option B, winter, 1 yarn of native Merino from Dlana - 4.5 and 3.5 mm crochet hooks (option A) or a 5 mm crochet hook (option B) - Tapestry needle

Measurements

- 46 cm (36 cm) of perimeter x 9 cm (8 cm) high

Gauge

- 26 stitches and 26 rounds in 10 cm

with 1 Herringbone stitch with 4.5 mm crochet hook

Skill level

- Intermediate

How to crochet the pattern Once made, sew both sides together, make a few stitches on the leaves to fix their position and bind off.

The next techniques and stitches will be used: Herringbone stitch: R1 (RS): *Pass 1 stitch as if you were going to knit it from the right side of the fabric, k1, pass the st over the knitted st and, without letting it go from the left needle knit it with the right needle from behind*.

Repeat from *a* to the end of the herringbone stitch line.

R2 (LS): P1 *p2 sts together and, without letting it go from the left needle, p only the first st. Repeat from *a* until there’s only 1 st left before finishing the rnd, p1.

Repeat these 2 rnds.

Ribbing stitch 1x1: R1 (RS): *K1, p1* repeat from *a* to the end of the rnd.

R2 (LS): *P1, k1* repeat from *a* to the end of the rnd.

Braid stitch: R1, 3, 5: Knit all the sts.

R2 AND ALL THE EVEN ROUNDS: Purl all the sts.

R7: Put the 5 first sts on an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit the next 5 sts and put the sts from the auxiliary needle on the right needle and knit them, finish knitting the last 5 sts.

R9: Knit all the sts.

R11: K5, put the next 5 sts on an auxiliary needle behind the work, k5 and put the sts from the auxiliary needle on the right needle and knit them.

R13: Knit all the sts.

R15: Put the 5 first stitches on an auxiliary needle in front of the work, knit the next 5 sts and put the sts from the auxiliary needle on the right needle and knit them, finish knitting the last 5 sts.

R17: Knit all the sts.

R19: K5, put the next 5 sts on an auxiliary needle behind the work, k5 and put the sts from the auxiliary needle on the right needle and knit them.

R20: Purl all the sts.

Icord closure: Only for the winter option.

When binding off: First, add 2 dc on the right side of the work before starting the round.

(K2, k2 together, return the 3 stitches on the right needle to the left one) repeat from (a) until you reach the marker, return the last 3 stitches to the left needle and bind off.

Pattern Option A: Cast on 125 (97) sts.

R1 (RS): *K1, p1* Repeat from *_* until the last st, k1.

R2 (LS): *P1, k1* Repeat from *_* until the last st, p1.

Start of the braid and herringbone stitch R1 (RS): K110 (82) sts with the herringbone stitch, PM, k15 sts with the braid stitch.

Continue with the herringbone and braid stitch during a total of 20 (14) rnds.

R21 (15): Bind off the 110 (82) herringbone sts with a 3.5 needle and continue knitting 15 sts of the braid.

Continue knitting the braid only: R1: P15.

Continue knitting only the first 5 sts from the 15 sts (first leaf): R1 (RS): K5.

R2: P5.

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 once again.

R5: K1, sl2 - k1 - BO2, k1 R6: P3.

R7: Sl2 - k1 - BO2 and bind off the last st and cut the thread.

Continue knitting the 5 central sts of the braid: R1 (RS): K2, m1r, k1, m1l, k2. 2 sts have been increased (7 sts).

R2: P7.

R3: K7.

Repeat rnds 2 and 3 once again.

R6: P7.

R7: K2, sl2 - k1 - BO2, k2.

R8: P5.

R9: K1, sl2 - k1 - BO2, k1.

R10: P3.

R11: Sl2 - k1 - BO2, bind off the last st and cut the thread.

Continue knitting the last 5 sts of the braid in the same way the first leaf was knitted.

Option B: Cast on 105 (83) sts.

Make the headband in the same way as explained in option A, dividing the stitches like this: Herringbone stitch: 90 (68) sts.

Braid stitch: 15 sts.

When binding off the corresponding stitches to the Herringbone stitch use the Icord closure.

98.

Tips for bloggers Mamá, quiero ser blogger

Five tips to make a living from what you like most Money. Without money we can’t pay for our home, supplies, fill our fridge, get dressed, go on holidays… and so many other things.

Is a taboo word that we’re afraid to say out loud because of what people may think about us, but at the same time so necessary and present for everyone.

A few weeks ago Paco Tomás said in his Instagram page: “If you’re good at something, don’t do it for free”, but why do we sometimes need to be reminded?

Crafts have always been associated with hobbies and free time, and getting paid for something that is supposedly of popular knowledge is a barrier for some. This causes many people to find themselves lost and not knowing how to take that leap.

So I’m gonna give you five tips that I hope will help you to make a living of what you like most.

1.

2.

The majority of us know how to cook, however, that doesn’t mean that we can’t go to restaurants.

Imagine that you get sick, that you want to spend more time with your kids, that you go on holidays, that for some reason the sales decline… evaluate what other lines of business you can add to the current ones.

Each person spends their time as wished, which means that the knowledge is out there for everyone.

The difference is that some decide to buy the finished products, and others make them with their own hands.

Value your ability or knowledge and respect yourself. If others don’t appreciate it, that means that they aren’t your target audience.

Don’t get upset, forget about them.

Not everyone likes the same things and that’s okay.

Look at the Inditex group, for example, it has product lines aimed at different audiences and needs: Zara, Massimo Dutti, Uterque, Bershka…

You must do the same because when you try to get everyone to like you, you end up not being liked by anyone.

Anticipate adversities and diversify your income, that’s my golden rule. When you put all eggs in one basket, your options are very limited.

Imagine that your ability is patchwork, how can you diversify your income?

• You can sell finished patchwork blankets. A standard design that you can create without having to invest a lot of time or resources.

• Personalised orders and obviously at a higher price.

• Classes in sewing academies, stores, civic centres…

• Are you up for an online store? You can sell materials, kits… you are the one setting the limits.

• And certainly my favorite option, digital products.

• If the time spent in sewing is 20 hours, put a price on your hours.

It’s about turning your knowledge into a digital product. It could be a downloadable ebook or an online course with videos, for example.

Keep doing so with all the resources you use.

• You can turn that patchwork blanket that you’re so good at making into an online course available 24/7 but without you being present.

It’s not all about creating, you must also let people know you. Maybe that’s the hardest part for the majority, because what you want is to dedicate your time and effort to your work and not to lose endless hours on social media.

• You don’t need professional equipment to make your videos, with your smartphone is more than enough.

• Or you can sell the blanket pattern in PDF format so that other people can make it by following your instructions.

4.

The reality is that this step is inevitable if you want to sell. Here are some options to make it more bearable.

Unlike other services, the best advantage of this is that you have to do the work just once and the stock is infinite. There’s always product availability and you don’t need to dedicate more hours.

• If a meter of fabric costs 10€ and you’re gonna need three, write down 30€.

• If you’re going to use 2 needles that may break, write down the cost.

5.

Very important! Create and take care of your subscribers. Social media is very changeable and you don’t have total control over them.

Show them regularly what you’re doing, the projects you have in mind, discounts, new physical or digital products that you’re going to launch… communication will be more personal and that will help you improve your sales.

3.

That’s why it’s important that you prepare a sampling, that you value your products one by one and that you write down all the costs. It’ll help you put a sale price without losing money.

You can also obtain great results by yourself and organic outreach without too much effort, there’s no need to reinvent the wheel: share with your followers what you’re creating, give them little tricks so that they can use your products, what new materials have appeared on the market… if you were them, what would you like to see in the account?

If you’re part of a community and opening up to the market, sell from your online store, have new followers on social media… always encourage them to subscribe to your email marketing list so you have more control over what they know about you.

You just need a text editor like Word or Pages, nothing else.

Less is more and it’s important that you do the numbers. There are businesses that aren’t profitable long before they even start, and sometimes we forget that we must take into account the cost of materials, time spent, shipping… and many other factors.

hours creating content or interacting.

First, collaborations. For example, if you create lamps, cushions, bedding, baskets… search for webs, influencers or Instagram pages dedicated to decoration and ask them for a collaboration. In this way you’ll have more visibility and videos or photos that you can also use.

If you create a piece of clothing or an accessory do the same but with fashion profiles.

Another passive and nearly painless option is advertising in Instagram or Facebook (depending on what your main social media is). For 1€ a day you can reach your target audience without having to spend endless

Your business depends only on you.

The world is eager to meet you, so don’t hide and share with others everything you have to offer.

100

Las tejedoras de sueños

Each of you lives in different parts of Madrid, have your own jobs, family, etc. How often do you get together to crochet and what’s your favourite place for these meetings?

Las tejedoras de sueños Las tejedoras de sueños (the dream crocheters) could be part of the script of a film, although in this case reality surpasses fiction and creates something much better.

This is the story of how a group of totally different women meet for the first time in a Santa Pazienzia workshop and their passion for crocheting unites them in a very special way. From that moment a beautiful friendship that accompanies them beyond the crochet is born. They’ve been crocheting together for several years now.

#tejedorasdesueños or also known as #exquisitas SP. Who are you and how did you meet? How was your group formed after the first meeting?

We’re a heterogeneous group of girls who share a common passion: crochet. Most of us met at a Santa Pazienzia workshop in Madrid on November 25, 2017 at the Tejetería. It was the tricolor clutch. That day Cati asked us for our phone numbers and decided to create a WhatsApp group called the “Tejedoras de Sueños” (Dream crocheters), where we started to exchange knowledge, doubts and recommendations. It’s formed by Cati, Lidia, Vero, Pilar, Laura, Irene, Paloma and Tania. Little by little we started to meet up to go to workshops and then to meet up on our own where we had a great time.

We are: Pilar (@pimoca69), Lidia (@lidiapj_03), Julia (@julia_juliet_julieta), Marina, @marinixiii_crochetism), Cristina (@cristinaclandestina), Verónica (@veroarboge), Tania (@tatty. tp), Raquel (@rachel.siguero), Paloma (@parodi_crochet), Cati (@catigu), Irene (@ChocAirin), Laura (@lhaktong) and Gladys (@vgpmacias).

When did you start crocheting?

What first drew you to the world of crochet?

Cati: In my case I started crocheting in the summer of 2015 because I had to live through some very hard moments, among them the illness and loss of my father. One day, in the hospital, I suggested that my mother teach me and my sister how to crochet. We spent our long stays in the hospital crocheting, it was an escape route. It helped me to overcome so much pain. And what began in a very sad moment of my life has become one of my greatest joys.

Laura: My grandmother, who was a dressmaker, has always been a great artist of knitting and crocheting, but she didn’t have enough patience to teach me and I didn’t have enough patience to learn from her. So, I started buying crochet books to learn on my own in 2011. And what attracted me most about that art was the bright colors of the wool and the possibility of doing something different from the white yarn carpets that adorned the houses at that time.

We were one of the first to use the Ikea coffee shop to meet up, but it’s not the only place. We’ve gone to workshops, the World Wide Knit in Public Day, in the Retiro, we don’t miss it, as well as Creativa which is a must.

We usually meet to eat and take out the needles at least once a month.

The best place of all is undoubtedly Cati’s house.

What has it brought to your personal life to have found some crocheting partners?

Vero: although it seems obvious, I’ve found in them support and understanding. At first, they helped me find a place to share my hobby. There are still many people who see crocheting as something stale and who don’t understand the time we invest in this.

But now they’ve become an unconditional support in any aspect of my life.

I know I can count on them to listen to me if I have any problems or share any concerns that are going through my head.

Tania: I have discovered the world! I didn’t imagine that I could meet such wonderful people with different ages and tastes, and that we could share the same hobby! Above all, the desire to share knowledge and, if one of them is stuck in a project, the humility that each one of them has in running to help you solve it. For me it’s my crochet family.

What social networks do you prefer to share your love for crocheting?

We all use Instagram, Pinterest and WhatsApp itself.

Are any of you professionally involved in the DIY world? Tell me what your professions are.

No. That’s the beauty of the group, that each one has a different profession, but we all share a hobby.

We work in different fields, there are teachers, nurses, physiotherapists, bankers, administrators, computer specialists, marketing specialists, etc.

What makes you choose a project to start crocheting it?

Lidia: I’m interested in any project in which I’m going to learn something new, regardless of whether it’s practical or not. That’s why I also love amigurumis, because as they are crocheted, they seem to come to life and they’re all different.

Raquel: I choose the projects that go with my style and that I often wear, otherwise I just discard them.

Another thing is the choice of colors, I think about it a lot.

What projects are in your needles right now?

Vero: a skirt and a T-shirt for my daughter, a half-finished bag for me and several small bags to store things that I’m doing with all the leftovers that I find around the house.

Lidia: a sweater, a hat, a shawl and I intend to start the Santa Pazienzia bag.

Paloma: a sweater and a doll.

Cris: a shawl, a jacket and some samples for my knitting class.

Pilar: the kimono of Susimiu, the April dress of Santa Pazienzia and I’m designing a macramé curtain that I want to make.

Marina: a crocheted top from Linda Skuja and an amigurumi that I’ve had to abandon almost finished.

Irene: I currently have the Suvi Top from WAK and the BloomingRoseRuana from ChunkyWools. I’ve taken advantage of the confinement to finish projects I had halfway through.

Gladys: a blanket and a hat.

What has been your favorite project so far? Is there one that has been crocheted by all of you?

Lidia: the vintage backpack from Santa Pazienzia. I think it’s also one of our most crocheted projects of all, besides its Cuore Snood shawl and collar. What I’m sure of is that, if we count how many projects we’ve crocheted by Santa Pazienzia, there are more than one hundred.

Cris: my favorite project was something I didn’t crochet myself, the SP fanny pack. It’s my favorite because it came out at a time when I couldn’t crochet and my sister understood that otherwise I would’ve crocheted it for sure, so she crocheted it for me and my mother lined it for me (which

is almost more important). So is more because of what it means and not only for its beauty.

Marina: the most special one was some amigurumi turtles I made to raise funds for an institute in Cantabria that was doing research against a type of cancer. It was a bit of a drag to crochet the same thing over and over again, but it was definitely worth it.

And finally, three people to follow in your social networks: It has been a little difficult for us to decide, but the accounts in which we all agree are @santapazienzia, @susimiu and @elevenhandmade.

And if you allow us, three more, lately we have discovered @lauraalgarra, @bo_crochet and @tejereningles.

Three brands you turn to for inspiration: Here we have it a little clearer and the brands we like the most are Malabrigo, Katia and Casasol.

Thank you so much for telling us about your crocheting adventures!

Call for talent @nietadesastre

Nieta DeSastre

Karina Carestia lives in Carhue (province of Buenos Aires, Argentina). She formally created Nieta DeSastre in 2020, but the idea has been in her head for many years.

“For me, crocheting is a constant learning process, a fun game that makes you lose track of time, a trigger to create new things. My only purpose is to convey that crocheting is good for you.” The name of the pattern presented to the call for talent is LadyElla because of the singer Ella Fitzgerald, as are the rest of her projects, which are named after women who made history. “Its construction requires complicated increases and decreases, until I found the formula!”

How to crochet the pattern Materials

-Yarn: Fine Shetland, double-stranded (Fingering), 2 yarn balls of 160 g in cream, 1 yarn ball of 160 g in light salmon -5 mm crochet hook

Measurements

-Width: neck, 22 cm; chest, 60 cm; hips, 58 cm; sleeves, 22 cm -Total length: 60 cm, outer sleeves, 50 cm; interior sleeves, 22 cm

Gauge

-11 stitches for 8 rounds in 10 x 10 cm

Skill level

-Intermediate

This garment is composed of eight parts, each section corresponding to different stitch patterns. Start with 66 chains and join to work with a magic ring (66).

Pattern Part 1 A

R1: ake 2 ch (count as 1 dc) and make 1 dc in each foundation chain (65). Close the round with 1 sl st (66).

In the second round we’ll make the division of stitches between sleeves and body. We’re going to work all the way through the round with embossed dc, in the front and in the back in the front loop, and in the sleeves, we’re going to do the embossed dc in the back loop.

Division of stitches: 12 stitches: sleeves. Embossed double

crochet in the back loop (dc in blo). From now on, we’ll be crocheting in a round pattern.

21 stitches: body. Embossed double crochet in the front loop (dc in flo).

R2: Make 1 ch just to gain height and in that same stitch make the first dc in flo.

Continue with 9 dc in flo, 12 dc in blo, 21 dc in flo, 12 dc in blo, 11 dc in flo (66).

R3 - R5: Same as in R2 (66).

B R6 (Mid-back: MB): make 1 ch just to gain height and in that same stitch make the first dc in flo, crochet 8 dc in flo. In the next stitch crochet: 1 dc in flo, 2 ch, 1 dc in flo in the same stitch.

(Recommendation: the 1st and 3rd time we do this sequence the 2nd embossed dc should be done behind the 1st embossed dc. That’s to say, crochet 1 embossed dc in

dc. That’s to say, crochet 1 embossed dc in the front, make 2 ch, crochet the 2nd embossed dc in the front between the newly crocheted dc and the dc of the previous round).

Sleeve 1 (S1): 12 dc in blo. Make 1 dc in flo, 2 ch, 1 dc in flo in the same stitch.

Front (F): 19 dc in flo, 2 ch, 1 dc in flo in the same stitch.

Sleeve 2 (S2): 12 dc in blo. Make 1 dc in flo, 2 ch, 1 dc in flo.

MB: 10 dc in flo and close with sl st (78).

R7 (MB): make 10 dc in flo. 1 round + 2 ch + 1 dc in the space of 2 ch from the previous round.

S1: 14 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 21 dc in flo, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: 14 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

MB: 11 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (86).

R8 (MB): 11 dc in flo. 1 dc+ 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 16 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 23 dc in flo, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: 16 dc in blo, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

MB: 12 dc in flo (94).

C R9 (MB): 12 dc in flo. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch.

S1: 18 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 12 dc in flo. 1 dc in flo + 2 ch + 1 dc in flo. 12 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: Same as in S1.

MB: 12 dc in flo. 1 dc in flo + 2 ch + 1 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (108).

R10 (MB): 13 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 20 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 14 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 14 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: Same as in S1.

MB: 14 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 1 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (120).

R11 (MB): 14 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 22 dc in blo, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 16 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 16 dc in flo. 1 dc+ 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: Same as in S1.

MB: 16 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 2 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (132).

R12 (MB): 15 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 24 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 18 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 18 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: Same as in S1.

MB: 18 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 3 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (144).

R13 (MB): 16 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 26 dc in blo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 20 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 20 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: same as in S1. MB: 20 dc in flo. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 4 dc in flo. Close with a sl st (156).

Part 2

R14 (MB): make 1 ch to gain height and crochet 1 dc in flo in the same stitch.

Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and make 1 dc in flo in the next stitch* X 7 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch.

S1: make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and make 1 dc in flo* X 13 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch.

F: make *1 dc in flo + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 10 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 dc in flo* X 10 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch.

S2: make *1 dc in flo, 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 13 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch.

MB: make *1 dc in flo + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 10 more times. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc in the same stitch. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in flo* X 1 more time. Make 1 ch and close with a sl st (168).

R15 (MB): start with 1 sl st to begin the round in the space of the ch from the previous round. Make 2 ch that count as 1 hdc and 1 ch. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc in the next stitch* X 7 more times.

Make 1 ch. (The last hdc + ch are made between the 2 dc from the previous round, even though there’s no chain space). 1dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: Make *1 dc, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 14 more times. Make 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 11 more times. Make 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 11 more times. Make 1 ch. (The first and last hdc + ch are made between the 2 dc from the previous round, even though there’s no chain space). 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 14 more times. Make 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

MB: make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 11 more times. Make 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch and 1 hdc* X 2 more times. Make 1 ch. (The first hdc + ch are made between the 2 dc from the previous round, even though there’s no chain space), (186).

R16: make 2 hdc in each chain space from the previous round.

MB: 18 hdc. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S1: 32 hdc, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

F: 26 hdc. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 26 hdc. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

S2: same as in S1.

MB: 26 hdc. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. 8 hdc.

Close with a sl st (192).

Part 3

Shell stitch: 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 5 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

R17 (MB): make 1 sl st to begin the round in the next stitch. Make 2 ch that count as the first dc from the Shell. In the same stitch make 2 dc. Skip 2 stitches, make 1 Shell stitch 2 times and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches (1 hdc +1 dc), make 4 dc in the space of 2 ch from the previous round, skip 1 stitch (1 dc).

S1: make 1 Shell stitch (the first sc is made on the first hdc). Repeat 4 more times. (total of 5 times) and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches (1 hdc +1 dc), make 4 dc in the space of 2 ch from the previous round, skip 1 stitch (1 dc).

F: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times. (4 times in total) and 1 sc. 1 ch, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc, 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times. (4 times in total) and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches (1 hdc + 1 dc), Make 4 dc in the space of 2 ch from the previous round, skip 1 stitch (1 dc).

S2: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 4 more times. (Total of 5 times) and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches (1 hdc +1 dc), make 4 dc in the space of 2 ch from the previous round, skip 1 stitch (1 dc).

MB: Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times. (4 times in total) and 1 dc. 1 ch, 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc, 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch and 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 2 dc in the same stitch where the round began to complete the group of 5 dc.

Close with a sl st.

R18 (MB): make 1 ch (counts as 1 sc), skip 2 stitches and make 5 dc in the same stitch and skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 sc between the 2nd and the 3rd dc from the 4 dc in flo from the previous round.

Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

S1: make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times. (4 times in total) and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 sc between the 2nd and the 3rd dc from the 4 dc from the previous round. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

F: make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times (4 times in total). 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Skip 2 stitches, make 5 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch.

Repeat the Shell stitch 2 more times. (3 times in total). Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches,

make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 sc between the 2nd and the 3rd dc from the 4 dc from the previous round. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

S2: make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times. (4 times in total) and 1 sc. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 sc between the 2nd and the 3rd dc from the 4 dc from the previous round. Skip 2 stitches, make 6 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

MB: make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times (4 times in total). 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Skip 2 stitches, make 5 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch.

Close with sl st.

R19 (MB): make 2 ch (count as 1 dc). In the same stitch make 2 dc more. Make 1 Shell stitch 2 times and make 1 sc. Skip 3 stitches, make 7 dc in the same stitch, skip 3 stitches.

S1: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 4 more times. (5 times in total). Make 1 sc, skip 3 stitches, make 7 dc in the same stitch, skip 3 stitches.

F: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times (4 times in total). Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 3 dc in the same stitch.

1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. In the next stitch make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times. Make 1 sc, skip 3 stitches, make 7 dc in the same stitch, skip 3 stitches.

S2: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 4 more times. (5 times in total). Make 1 sc, skip 3 stitches, make 7 dc in the same stitch, skip 3 stitches.

MB: make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 3 dc in the same stitch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. In the next stitch make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 Shell stitch. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 2 dc in the same stitch where the round began to complete the group of 5 dc.

Close with a sl st.

R20 (MB): make 1 ch (counts as 1 sc), skip 2 stitches and make 5 dc in the same stitch and skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch 2 times.

Skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch, make 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch.

S1: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 4 more times. (5 times in total) Skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch, make 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch.

F: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times (4 times

in total). Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat the Shell stitch 4 more times. (5 times in total). Skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch, make 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch.

S2: Make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 4 more times. (5 times in total). Skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch, make 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 1 stitch, make 1 sc, skip 1 stitch.

MB: Make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 3 more times (4 times in total). Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat the Shell stitch 1 more time. Close with a sl st.

R21 (MB): make 2 ch (count as 1 dc). In the same stitch make 2 dc more. Make 1 Shell stitch 3 more times. Make 1 sc (between the 2nd and 3rd dc from the previous round).

S1: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 5 more times. (6 times in total). Make 1 sc (between the 2nd and 3rd dc from the previous round).

F: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times.

Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 3 dc in the same stitch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Skip 2 stitches. In the next stitch make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 Shell stitch 5 times. Make 1 sc (between the 2nd and 3rd dc from the previous round).

S2: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 5 more times. (6 times in total). Make 1 sc (between the 2nd and 3rd dc from the previous round).

MB: make 5 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 3 more times.

Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 3 dc in the same stitch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Skip 2 stitches. In the next stitch make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches, make 1 Shell stitch. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches and make 2 dc where the round began to complete the group of 5 dc. Close with a sl st.

Part 4 SEPARATE THE SLEEVES AND THE BODY R22 (MB): make 1 ch (counts as 1 sc), skip 2 stitches and make 5 dc in the same stitch and skip the next 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 1 Shell stitch. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 2 dc in the same stitch, skip the sleeves: 41 stitches (5 dc + 6 Shell stitches).

F: make 2 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 4 more times (5 times in total). Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 1 Shell stitch 4 more times. (5 times in total). Skip 2 stitches, make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 2 dc in the same stitch.

SKIP THE SLEEVES. 41 STITCHES: 5 DC + 6 SHELL STITCHES MB: Make 2 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 4 more times (5 times in total). Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 1 ch. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 1 Shell stitch 1 more time. Close with a sl st.

R23 (MB): make 2 ch (count as 1 dc). In the same stitch make 2 dc more. Make 1 Shell stitch 2 times. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 4 dc in the same stitch.

Make 1 sc in the stitch created between the 2 dc on the back and the 2 dc on the front that we made before we separated the sleeves. Make 4 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches.

F: Make 1 Shell stitch 4 times. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, Make 3 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch 4 times. Make 1 sc and skip 2 stitches. Make 4 dc in the same stitch.

Make 1 sc in the stitch created between the 2 dc on the back and the 2 dc on the front that we made before we separated the sleeves.

MB: make 4 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch 4 times. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 3 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 3 dc in the same stitch, skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch.

Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, and make 2 dc in the same stitch where the round began to complete the group of 5 dc. Close with a sl st.

R24 (MB): make 1 ch (counts as 1 sc), skip 2 stitches and make 5 dc in the same stitch and skip the next 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 1 Shell stitch. Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 4 dc in the same stitch.

F: Skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 4 more times (5 times in total). Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make 1 ch.

Make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 1 Shell stitch 4 more times. (5 times in total). Make 1 sc, skip 2 stitches, make 4 dc in the same stitch.

MB: Skip 2 stitches. Make 1 Shell stitch.

Repeat 4 more times (5 times in total).

Make 1 sc + 1 ch. 1 dc + 2 ch +

Part 5 POST-SHELL R25 (MB): make 1 ch (counts as 1 hdc).

Make 20 hdc, skip 1 stitch.

F: make 34 hdc. Make 1 ch, make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc, make 1 ch. Make 34 hdc, skip 1 stitch.

MB: make 34 hdc. 1 ch, make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc, make 1 ch. Make 13 hdc.

R26 (MB): Make 1 sl st to start the round in the next stitch. Make 1 ch and make 1 dc in flo in that same stitch. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 dc in flo* X 8 more times.

Make 1 dc between the next 2 hdc.

F: Make *1 dc in flo, skip 1 stitch + 1 ch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 dc in flo* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc between the next 2 hdc.

MB: Make *1 dc in flo, skip 1 stitch + 1 ch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 dc in flo* X 6 more times. Make 1 ch and close with a sl st.

R27 (MB): make 1 sl st + 1 ch (count as 1 sc + 1 ch). Make *1 sc, skip 1 stitch + 1 ch* X 7 more times. Make 1 sc. Make 1 sc between the dc in flo and the dc from the previous round and 1 sc between the dc and the dc in flo.

F: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch * X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 16 more times. Make 1 sc between the dc in flo and the dc from the previous round and 1 sc between the dc and the dc in flo.

MB: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch * X 16 more times. Make 1 dc+ 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 7 more times.

Make 1 ch. DON’T close the round and continue crocheting the next 3 rounds in spiral.

R28 (MB): make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 6 more times. Make 4 sc in the next 4 stitches.

F: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 16 more times. Make 3 sc in the next 3 stitches.

MB: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 8 more times.

Make 1 ch.

R29 (MB): make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 5 more times. Make 5 sc in the next 5 stitches.

F: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 16 more times. Make 4 sc in the next 4 stitches.

MB: Make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 9 more times.

Make 1 ch.

R30 (MB): make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 4 more times. Make 6 sc in the next 6 stitches.

F: make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* X 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc. Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 16 more times. Make 5 sc in the next 5 stitches.

MB: Make *1 sc + 1 ch, skip 1 stitch* x 16 more times. Make 1 dc + 2 ch + 1 dc.

Make *1 ch, skip 1 stitch + 1 sc* X 10 more times. Make 1 ch. And close with a sl st.

Cut the thread.

Part 6 EMBROIDERED CHAIN Make within the sequences 1 dc + 2 cad + 1 dc of each round 1 chain to form an embroidered braid or chain that’s in the center of the fabric. From Round 9 to Round 30.

Part 7 2 STRIPS AND 2 TRIANGLES Change of color: STRIPS First, we’re going to work on the front half and the back half, where we’ll work on the sequence 1 dc + 2 ch +1 dc.

Front: insert the hook in the space of 2 ch, make 10 ch. Make 1 ch to gain height and make 1 hdc in each foundation ch. Close with a sl st in the space of 2 ch where we began.

Back: Repeat the steps we made for the front part.

TRIANGLES Let’s start by working on those 10 hdc crocheted in the front until we get to the 10 hdc crocheted in the back.

R1: insert the hook in the edge, make 10 hdc. Continue crocheting in the last round: 36 hdc, 2 hdc crocheted together, 36 hdc. Make 10 hdc in the crocheted strip. Make 1 ch and turn.

R2: make 10 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 3 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches. Make *5 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches* X 3 more times. Make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1

hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitch. Make *5 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches* X 3 more times. Make 3 hdc.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc. Make 1 ch and turn.

R3: make 10 hdc taking the back loop, skip 1 stitch, make 2 hdc taking the back loop, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch.

Make *5 hdc taking the back loop, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch* X 3 more times.

Skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch. Make *5 hdc taking the back loop, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch* X 3 more times. Make 2 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 10 hdc taking the back loop. Make 1 ch and turn.

R4: 10 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Make 28 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 28 hdc. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Skip 1 stitch. 10 hdc.

R5: 10 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 27 hdc taking the back loop.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 27 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop.

R6: make 10 hdc, skip 1 stitch. Make *5 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches* X 2 more times. Make 4 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 4 hdc, make *2 ch, skip 2 stitches, 5 hdc* X 2 more times.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc. Make 1 ch and turn.

R7: make 10 hdc taking the back loop, skip 1 stitch, make 4 hdc taking the back loop. *Make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch, 5 hdc taking the back loop* X 1 more time.

Make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch, 3 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 3 hdc taking the back loop, *make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch, 5 hdc taking the back loop* X 1 more time. Make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch.

Make 4 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop.

Make 1 ch and turn.

R8: 10 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Make 19 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 19 hdc. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Skip 1 stitch. 10 hdc.

R9: 10 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 18 hdc taking the back loop.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 18 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop.

R10: Make 10 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches. Make *4 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches* X 1 more time. Make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, make 2 ch,

skip 2 stitches. Make *4 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches* X 1 more time. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc. Make 1 ch and turn.

R11: make 10 hdc taking the back loop, skip 1 stitch. Make *4 hdc taking the back loop, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch* X 1 more time. Skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch.

Make *4 hdc taking the back loop, make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch* X 1 more time.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop. Make 1 ch and turn.

R12: 10 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Make 10 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc. Make 2 hdc crocheted together. Skip 1 stitch. 10 hdc.

R13: 10 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 9 hdc taking the back loop.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 9 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop.

R14: make 10 hdc, skip 1 stitch, make 2 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches, make 3 hdc. Skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch. Make 3 hdc, make 2 ch, skip 2 stitches, make 2 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc. Make 1 ch and turn.

R15: make 10 hdc taking the back loop, skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc taking the back loop. Make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch, make 2 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch, make 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch. Make 2 hdc taking the back loop. Make 2 hdc in the space of 2 ch, make 1 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop. Make 1 ch and turn.

R16: 10 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. Make 3 hdc.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 3 hdc. Skip 1 stitch. 10 hdc.

R17: 10 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc taking the back loop.

Skip 1 stitch. Make 1 hdc. Skip 1 stitch.

Make 1 hdc taking the back loop. Skip 1 stitch. Make 10 hdc taking the back loop.

Cut the thread leaving about 30 cm to bind off the work. Close with a sl st or with a tapestry needle. Repeat rounds 1 to 17 from the back to the front.

Part 8 SLEEVES Start with a sc between the 2 dc from the back and the 2 dc from the front that we made on the round in which we separated the sleeves and the body.

R1: make 1 Shell stitch. Repeat 7 more times until finishing the round (48).

R2: make 2 ch (count as 1 dc) and 2 dc in the same stitch. Make 1 Shell stitch and repeat 6 more times. Make 1 sc and complete the group of 5 dc with 2 dc in the same stitch where the round began (48).

R3-5-7: repeat round 1 (48).

R4-6-8: repeat round 2 (48).

R9: 1 hdc in each stitch (48).

R10-11-12: 1 dc in flo in each stitch (48).

Decreases: R13: *make 6 dc in flo, 2 dc in flo crocheted together*. Repeat from * a * until finishing the round (42).

R14: *make 2 dc in flo crocheted together, 2 dc in flo, 2 dc in flo crocheted together, 1 dc in flo*. Repeat from * a * until finishing the round. (Total: 30 stitches) R15: make 1 dc in flo, *make 2 dc in flo crocheted together, 3 dc in flo*.

Repeat from * a * until there’s only 2 stitches left and make 2 dc in flo (24).

Change of color: R16: make 1 embossed sc in the front part of each stitch (24).

R17-18-19: make 1 sl st taking the back loop in each stitch and bind off (24).

Abbreviations Knitting LN: Left needle RN: Right needle C5BF: Place 1 st on the cable needle, hold to back; place 3 sts on another cable needle, hold to front, Ptbl, K3 from second cable needle; Ptbl from first cable needle.

K: knit Sl2 - k1 - BO2: slip 2 sts as if you were going to crochet them together, k1, bind off the 2 sts together and pass them over the slipped stitch.

S2KPO: Slip 2 together knitwise, K1, pass slipped sts over (center double decrease) lld: Left-leaning decrease: Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, pass the slipped sts to the left needle and purl through the back loop.

Ktbl: Knit through back loop. sl1wyif: Slip 1 with yarn in front. sl1wyib: Slip 1 with yarn in back.

WS: wrong side RS: right side M1R (make 1 right): increase one stitch on the right. Raise the horizontal thread between the stitch you’ve just knitted and the one you’re about to knit, inserting the left needle from the back to the front.

Knit the stitch in the front loop.

M1L (make 1 left): increase one stitch on the left. Raise the horizontal thread between the stitch you’ve just knitted and the one you’re about to knit, inserting the left needle from the front to the back.

Knit the stitch in the back loop.

M/PM: marker/place marker BOR: Beginning of the round SM: Steek marker CO: Cast on St(s): stitch(es) Ptbl: purl through the back loop P: purl R/rnd: round P2tog: purl two stitches together Dst: Double stitch (German short rows).

M1: Make one.

Crochet R/Rnd: Round mr: magic ring ch: chain stitch st(s): stitch(es) dc: double crochet sc: single crochet sl st: slip stitch hdc: half double crochet hdc ribbed stitch: ribbed half double crochet stitch inc: increase (2 sc in the same st) dec: decrease (join in 1 sc the next 2 sts) blo: back loop only flo: front loop only *…* x N: repeat the instructions between asterisks a total of N times (N: number of times) (…): total number of stitches of that round […]: crochet the sequence taking the same stitch of the previous round

Place two strips folded in half so that the tips are on the right and the other two, folded in the same shape and on the left side.

Legend of graphics Slip stitch Chain stitch Single crochet Half double crochet

Crochet in sc hiding the threads that will act as a closure by letting the ends of the strips come out at each end.

Double crochet

Macramé 3-trc Cluster 2-dc together

Knots Reverse lark’s head knot:

Place a puckered closure system (Sunflower Bag page 72)

Fold one length of cord in half and place it over the rod.

Flatten the bag and leave the round beginning on one side.

Bring half of the cord behind the rod and pass the cables through the semicircle created.

Pull both cords really tight.

Pass the cord on the left behind the two cables and insert it into the semicircle.

Tighten hard and raise it to the reverse lark’s head knot.

Square Knot:

Cut a cord and calculate its half, put behind the cords that hang from a reverse lark’s head knot.

Bring the cord from the right to the left creating an inverted four-shape, pass over the two cables and under the cord that’s left on the right.

Cut ends, in this case they should be one palm long. One by one, put them behind the reverse lark’s head knot cords.

Encircle the reverse lark’s head knot cord with the cable on the right. This cord will have to pass over the reverse lark’s head knot cable and over the cable on the left.

Repeat this step again, but in the opposite direction: take the left cord to the right in a normal four-shape over the cables and behind the right cord.

Take the cable from the right to the left again but this time under the cable from the left to put it behind the reverse lark’s head knot cords and inside the semicircle.

Take the cord from the right to the left behind the two cables and insert it inside the semicircle. Tighten it and keep repeating this knot as many times as you want.

Festoon knot for fringes:

Tighten hard and take it up to the reverse lark’s head knot. Repeat this step until the desired area is covered.

PatrĂ­cia Mafra /

01

PatrĂ­cia Mafra is a Portuguese illustrator, based in Berlin.

Before she decided to officially start her illustration career, she completed an Industrial Design BA degree, worked as a product, interior and graphic designer.

Nowadays, PatrĂ­cia likes to experiment and work with different mediums: from digital to print, editorial to branding, icons to characters. Her illustrations are a joyful blend of vivid colours and rough geometric shapes.

www.patriciamafra.com @_patriciamafra_

Marcy Day/

02

Marcy Day is an illustrator currently living in Portland, Oregon. In 2016, she quit her job to travel the world. She rode her bike 10,000 miles from Vietnam to Turkey, illustrating as she went.

Marcy brings her love of color, the outdoors, and character design to her illustrations. Her work is inspired by her worldly adventures and photographs she takes along the way.

www.marcyday.com @marcyday_

Jen Leem-Bruggen/

03

Born in London and based from her home-studio in Birmingham, Jen Leem-Bruggen is an illustrator whose passion for image-making stems from an early love of stamp collecting and print-making.

Having studied Illustration at the School of Creative Arts at Hertfordshire University and a stint as an Artist Agent at Folio Art in London, Jen took the leap into freelance illustration in 2018.

Since then she has honed her craft by combining analogue and digital techniques to create vibrant and textured illustrations that are inspired by mid-century design, environments, people and nature.

Working predominately in Photoshop, Jen creates vivid imagery awash with handmade textures and anchored with strong compositions. Jen has worked for editorial and advertising clients such as Apple, Monocle Magazine and Woman & Home. www.jenleem-bruggen.co.uk @jenleembruggen

Ekaterina Gorbacheva/

04

Katie is from Russia. she specializes in illustration, packaging and branding projects.

At first she studied at a children’s art school. Then she entered the institute at the department of design. After graduating, Katie decided to deal with graphics, rather than interior design.

She decided to start mastering the profession in the office and worked for several years in advertising agencies. But a year ago, Katie switched to freelance. Illustration has become her work. She doesn’t regret it.

She’s trying to find new tricks in conveying the forms and plastics of characters - not to copy the obvious things in the illustration, but to find a feature in the character or the usual plot.

The skills of the times of the institute help me with this - collage technique, stencil and even sculpture. All this develops the ability to think about the form and emotions in the illustration.” be.net/katie_gorbacheva @katie.gorbacheva

Anja Bartelt/

05

Anja Bartelt is a Berlin based freelance illustrator and graphic designer. She studied Visual Communication at the University of Applied Sciences Potsdam, and since graduating has produced work for numerous magazines and agencies. Her work is inspired by everyday situations that she translates into whimsical, soft colour toned images with a glimpse of humour.

Anja digitally cuts out shapes in order to achieve a collage aesthetic. “In my stylistic approach I am looking to maintain the analogue in the digital by using mixed media techniques and layers of texture”.

If the message of the piece she is creating is the key, Anja reduces her colour palette and works more boldly with simpler shapes. Yet, if the piece is about a certain feeling “there cannot be enough details, colours and textures“. anjabartelt.com @anja.bartelt

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