Shuckers Stake their Claim

by Leslie Lamkin

Devoted oyster shuckers all, they assemble at the oyster tables set up at Gascoigne Bluff promptly at 5:00 o’clock, knives and gloves in hand, and never leave for the next two to three hours. While most other St. Simons Land Trust Oyster Roast guests tend to wander from the barbecue table to the Low Country Boil to the sides and on to the desserts, the true oyster fans never budge.

The team of eight to 10 oyster servers, headed up by Georgia Kellogg, see some of the same enthusiastic faces year after year. The guests at the oyster tables tend to see the same faces among the servers, as well. Kellogg, who teaches general psychology at College of Coastal Georgia, has chaired the operation for eight years. With her from the beginning: Emmitt Nolan, Ellen Mullis, and Dan Welch.

Kellogg says that after eight years, they have the operation down to a science. “It’s like riding a bicycle,” she says. “I organize what we need from lining up volunteers all the way to the cleanup, including buying the lemons, the wipes, and the paper towels.”

Who actually steams the oysters? That would be a team headed by Crabdaddy’s owner, Charlie Williams, who has volunteered for more than 10 years. He brings two friends,

including his son-in-law, Joey Baldwin, who owns Boulevard Café. Don Gentile brings an assistant from Bennie’s Red Barn.

On his way to the roast, Williams picks up 25 to 30 100-pound sacks of oysters from City Market for a total of about 3,600 to 5,000 oysters. Since attendance last year set a record of close to 1,000 people, the number of oysters steamed was on the high side.

Williams says his crew can steam 200 pounds at once in two baskets. With that many oysters, it’s fortunate they have a hoist that can pull them out of the steamer and deposit them on the table. It takes about 15 minutes to steam each batch – and “there are so many people to serve, we still can’t cook them fast enough,” he says.

Charlie’s tip: “A great time to sit down at the oyster table is about 7:00 p.m. The busiest time is 5:00 p.m. The last hour, we have a lot of oysters left.” Williams says if there are any oysters left at 8:00 p.m., City Market will take them back. But first, Kellogg says, “We love to feed all the policemen and others who are there taking care of things.” And what happens to the mounds of oyster shells? They go to the Coastal Division of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, which uses them to build oyster reefs in the Golden Isles.

And while the shuckers pop open shell after shell, other less oyster-enthusiastic guests make their way around the beautiful lighted grounds to sample food donated by some 40 talented local chefs and restaurants and enjoy the upbeat music under the oaks. This year, popular local group Suzy and the Bird Dogs will bring their country/folk/rock repertoire to the stage.

Join the shuckers, party-lovers, Land Trust supporters and volunteers for the 18th annual St. Simons Land Trust Oyster Roast on Saturday, January 13. All proceeds benefit the St. Simons Land trust and their mission to preserve the island’s natural and scenic character and enhance the quality of life in our island community for present and future generations. Tickets are $60 for members before January 5 and $85 for non-members. Heavy rain cancels the event. To join the St. Simons Island Land Trust and/or buy tickets, visit sslt. org or call 912.638.9109

St. Simons Land Trust 18th Annual Oyster Roast

Saturday, January 13, 2018 5:00-8:00 p.m. Gascoigne Bluff $60 members (before Jan. 5) $85 non-members 912.638.9109 / sslt.org