Mastering the Art of Tasting

MAS T E R ING OF TA STING

by Donna MacPherson

At 35,000 feet above sea level, I sit pondering at what point I decided to dedicate myself to developing a sense of taste for olive oil. Another one of my life's journeys is about to begin.

Since purchasing Golden Isles Olive Oil in October, I have learned so much, and one thing is for sure: Extra Virgin Olive Oil plays a key role in our longevity and health when included in our daily diet. I wanted to learn more.

A beautiful spring day awaited me as I landed at Lake Garda. A large beautiful lake located in Northern Italy, it is a popular holiday location known for its Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The International Olive Oil Academy course I’m taking will be held on a beautiful terrace, right on the lake’s shore with panoramic views of the lake. The atmosphere is suitably fitting to the occasion. Historically there has been a flourishing and famous tradition of olive oil production on the shores of Lake Garda and you can feel the pride in the air. Thanks to the ideal micro-climatic conditions of this lake, olive groves flourish. The oils from this region are renowned for their lightness and delicacy. As I soon learn, this style of oil goes well with freshwater fish from the lake as well as traditional country dishes of meat and polenta. Pairing the perfect extra virgin olive oil for each dish is an art.

Shortly after dinner we gathered as a group for the first time to meet and review the program for the week. Farmers, producers, nutritionists, hotel owners, shop owners, food bloggers and importers all came together from different parts of the world with one common goal, to learn all we could about the benefits and the qualities of this liquid gold. We came from homes and businesses in Denmark, Spain, Italy, USA, Canada, Turkey, Lithuania, the UK, Australia, France, and Ireland. One thing was clear, that we all understood the importance and value olive oil has on your health. Our diversity set the tone for a very interesting program which would allow us to become tasting experts. The official quality and grade of olive oil are determined by chemical analysis. The analysis, taken at the time of crush, measures the polyphenol, oleic acids, free fatty acids, etc. The chemical analysis must be done by a certified independent laboratory. The sensorial analysis is done by an independent official panel, which is typically made up of eight certified olive oil tasting experts, each of whose skill is required to be evaluated annually. A member of the International Olive Oil Council is required to be present to verify that the tasting has been done correctly.

Olive oil tastings are called sensorial analysis because, in addition to tasting the olive oil, the senses of smell and touch are also utilized. Sensorial analysis allows us to define the complexity and finesse of the oil. This is one of the most important aspects of olive oil classification and value determination. Determining the complex aroma and taste of oil cannot be (continues)

The courtyard of Frantoio Montecroce

The art of tasting, like so much else in life, is mostly a function of mind over matter. We have an average of 1,000 taste buds, primarily on our tongues and in our throats. These nerve endings help us register basic taste components such as sweet, salty, and bitter. It is the 400 olfactory receptors in our noses that send the messages our brain uses to pick up on more than 1 trillion aromas. With smell, you can induce recognition through repeated exposure to different odors. Direct or retronasal aromatic olfactory sensations is basically a perception of flavor. That is the essence of grass or fruits or nuts that you sense when you taste an oil.

There can be both positive and negative attributes found in the tasting process of olive oil. Negative attributes are identified as moldy, musty, fusty, winey, vinegar, rancid, muddy sediment. If any of these attributes are found at an official blind tasting and are identified by the majority of the panel, the oil will not be allowed to be sold or labeled as an Extra Virgin Olive Oil. The positive attributes of a good olive oil that we are looking for are identified as its fruitiness. We identify whether the oil is ripe or green. The aromas should be fresh and healthy. Does the aroma remind the taster of the olive fruit? Does it bring to mind grass, leaves, vegetables, fruit or herbs? Is it bitter or pungent? Each olive grove, each olive, each harvest is very different from another.

At Golden Isles Olive Oil, we have the measured chemical analysis for each Extra Virgin Olive Oil we bring into the store. This includes the date of crush, listed on the labels on our fustis. You want to look at the polyphenol number listed on the label. We line ours up with the mildest extra virgin (the lowest polyphenol count) on the right and progressively to the left where you will find the most robust (highest polyphenol count) extra virgin olive oil. We have the most complete (continues)

Over the course of the week, my fellow course participants and I tasted over 60 olive oils, all in blind tastings. Mild, medium, and intense varieties were included, all sourced from various regions around the world. As we begin to identify different attributes of a variety of olive oils, it became clearer and easier to identify the individual nuances of each. Olive oil characteristics are influenced by several factors: the variety of the olive tree, the type of soil and climate, and the harvesting and milling methods. The purpose of tasting olive oil is to capture through our senses the organoleptic qualities of the olive oil in order to evaluate its positive and negative attributes. You don’t have to become a certified expert to be a good judge of the quality and grade of your olive oil.

We were very fortunate to tour the beautiful olive grove and mill of Frantoio Montecroce. Frantoio sits on the side of the mountain overlooking Lake Garda on 20 hectares of olive groves, a modest size grove. On arrival, you are welcomed to a fresh, bright courtyard with the olive grove on one side and a flowery balcony overlooking Lake Garda on the other. The olive mill was built 50 years ago and exudes the charm of old Italy. We were greeted by owner, Egidio, a middle-aged gentleman who dedicates himself to his work at the mill with utter conviction. He first took us for a walk through his grove and taught us about growing and cultivating the olives. Casaliva is the main olive varietal here. The trees are placed strategically in rows and an auto drip irrigation system rambles through the trees. The olive tree is striking in its features with its unique gnarled, twisted trunk and evergreen tops and graceful slender leaves. Just looking at them you have a sense that they have a grace and character that sets them apart from other trees. As I walked through the grove there was a sense of contentment with the sun glistening through the leaves and the Merlot Canta serenading us with their song. Egidio then took us inside (continues)

to learn about the production and process of creating the oils.

Extra-virgin and virgin olive oils are processed by crushing olives into a mash, which is pressed to extract the oil (this is called the first press) without the use of heat (called cold pressing). Extra-virgin oils are of higher quality, as the olives used to make them are processed within 24 hours of picking—the longer olives go between picking and processing, the higher their free fatty acid content (extra-virgin olive oil can have up to 0.8 percent, virgin oils 2 percent). Extra-virgin oils also have more polyphenols than virgin oils. Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the purest and best quality olive oil. Pure olive oil or simply olive oil are below extra-virgin and virgin standards and are heavily processed to remove off flavors and aromas. Though the oil still is a source of monounsaturated fat, it has been stripped of healthful polyphenols. Polyphenols are critical antioxidants. They are the natural anti-inflammatory agents, found in highest concentrations in high quality extra virgin olive oil. They can slow down the aging process in the skin by stabilizing the cell plasma membrane. Research supports that diets rich in olive oil, especially those with high polyphenol levels are associated with healthier breast tissue, colon function, cholesterol levels and cardiovascular function including substantially reducing the risk of stroke.

For these reasons, most, if not all, major scientific organizations encourage healthy adults to adapt a style of eating like that of the Mediterranean diet for prevention of major chronic diseases. The Mediterranean diet incorporates the basics of healthy eating, including a splash of flavorful olive oil. This diet emphasizes eating primarily plant-based foods, such as fruits and vegetables, whole grains, legumes, and nuts. Butter is replaced with healthy fats such as olive oil and canola oil. Herbs and spices are used instead of salt to flavor foods. Consumption of red meat is limited to no more than a few times a month. Fish and poultry are eaten at least twice a week. Meals are enjoyed with family and friends. Drinking red wine in moderation and getting plenty of exercise are the final components of a healthy lifestyle. There are lots of good reasons to stock your pantry with extra virgin olive oil. Studies have been found that people who follow a (continues)

Donna, (standing, sixth from left) with her group of students and teachers at the Sommelier International Olive Oil Academy in Lake Garda, Italy.

Mediterranean diet have a lower mortality rate than those who follow a more traditional Western diet loaded with high amounts of saturated fat. Olive oil contains more monounsaturated fatty acids than any other fat or oil. This is a healthy fat and one of the healthiest substitutes for any fat used in any cooking recipe. Olive oil is the most easily absorbed edible fat. It is prudent to adopt a lifestyle that uses olive oil in place of saturated fats as the main fat in your diet.

Another major component of the course program was pairing olive oil with foods. We attended a Food Culture & Pairing master cooking class, and how can any cooking and olive oil pairing class in Italy be anything but fabulous?! Extra Virgin Olive Oil is used with a very great number of traditional Italian dishes. It highlights flavor and for this reason, it should be chosen with care. A good oil is fundamental to great cooking. You can cook and even fry with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. When used in frying, olive oil coats food instead of being absorbed. People often refer to the smoke point of oil when cooking. The smoke point refers to the temperature at which cooking fat or oil begins to break down and produce smoke. Depending on the quality of the oil, the smoke point will differ. Extra Virgin Olive Oil with a lower free fatty acid level will have a higher smoke point. A high quality EVOO, like the ones available at Golden Isles Olive Oil, will typically have a smoke point between 400-500 degrees Fahrenheit.

I returned to St. Simons Island certified as an official Olive Oil Sommelier. Now I’m feeling very motivated and full of energy, eager to share my inspiration and all the information I gained. Who knew there was so much to know about olive oil? This was not just a course, but a memorable experience with well-balanced theory and practical segments. I now have the skills and knowledge to be able to recognize, use and communicate the rational use of olive oil in the kitchen and on the table through the harmonization of olive oil and food pairing. I’m surprised when I realize how little is known about the use of extra virgin olive oil by the general public, food professionals and even top chefs. When you ask about the oil on your table or the oil that is being used in your dish, not many can tell you about the oils being used. It is fun to note the unique flavor profiles of each oil and how best to pair them with fresh ingredients. For me, olive oil is an accessory at a meal that is uniquely its own experience with its own story. I want to use what I have learned to showcase those stories and help others to do the same.

DONNA MACPHERSON received her Professional Olive Oil Sommelier Diploma and Sensory Aptitude Certification. The course she attended was conducted by the International Olive Oil Academy under the IRVEA Institute. Areas of study included olive-growing, olive variety, olive oil extraction, sensory analysis, organoleptic evaluation and oil tasting. It included a visit to an olive grower as well as presentations on international regulation and standards, and olive oil marketing strategy. She also received instruction on health, well-being and nutrition, olive oil in the kitchen, table, and took a food pairing Master class. There was guided tasting and practical tests for certification, tasting of more than 60 oils of different international origins using various forms and tasting sheets for product evaluation and for competitions. Donna owns Golden Isles Olive Oil at 306 Redfern Village. The shop is open 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Sunday and Monday. Stop in to let Donna help you choose products and plan meals using her newfound knowledge.