21 minute read
A Pirate Looks at 40
he last thing I remember was the storm, the way the waves tossed us about and the way the Diamond Duchess heaved to and fro, her beams creaking and cracking. The way the sails whipped and the mast strained and then snapped in the fury. We were going to go down, right here in Blackbeard’s waters. Surely we were cursed. We may be considered pirates by some, but even our ilk knows to steer clear of the fearsome Edward Teach. We had hoped for swift and smooth sailing along the coast we know he roams, and hoped that the Queen Anne’s Revenge would never be a sight we see. A dreadful captain, that one, and cruel-hearted wretch, we’d all heard the tales. So, when I awoke on this beach, wondering if it was if it was mermaids or dolphins who carried me here from the deep, all I could think was to get away from the waters and shores where Blackbeard may roam.
It was dark, the land unfamiliar, and the terrain muddled me brain. I trod through grasses and trees and over rocks that weren’t rocks. With weariness in my bones and aching feet, I climbed into a pile of something soft and drifted off to sleep. Now, once again, I feel myself floating, the waves gently rocking me. I hear people around. Am I on another ship? My hand drops and touches water and I struggle to wake my slumbering brain to make sense of it all. “SHARK!!!” comes the scream! I flounder and thrash about, knowing only I need get out of these strange waters if a shark be circling about. My eyes take in the dark forms of people floating all around me. We must get out! I try to rouse them, but no one seems afraid. “Dude, it’s okay. It’s just a movie. Haven’t you ever seen Jaws? Chill, man.”
A movie? I look where he is pointing to a giant sail where pictures move and see the monster attacking a boat. I must be in some strange dream. I don’t know this place and these natives seem odd. But I am in no danger. I lie back and relax, determined to learn what I can about this alien land.
our Gentleman Jack’s attention, Jaws has gripped moviegoers’ imaginations for more than four decades and Jekyll Island’s Summer Waves Water Park is offering a fun way to watch Steven Spielberg’s classic shark tale. Grab an innertube and watch Jaws from the Frantic Atlantic wave pool at the Swim-in Movie, June 1 at 8:30 p.m. The movie is free with purchase of Night Splash tickets ($15 + tax), which are effective beginning at 4 p.m. Trolls is the June 30 Swim-in Movie. Visit summerwaves. com for more information and daily calendar.
he structures are strange, and everyone is dressed oddly, but they don’t seem afraid of me. When I tell them my name is Jack, they pat my shoulder and call me “Jack Sparrow.” He must be a wellknown and much-liked captain. No mentions of Blackbeard, so perhaps I’m safe. I did take note that they say this is the “Golden Isles” and they tell me there is treasure to find here. I will seek this gold and whatever bounty I can find on these shores. The people are, at least friendly. They have bedded me down in a castle and on the morrow, we will break our fast together.
was once the home of millionaires and you too can take a step back in time by taking a vacation right in the heart of Jekyll’s historic district. Experience the island’s true charm and history and plan a weekend getaway at the Club by calling 877.860.1395. From croquet on the lawn to brunch or high tea in the Grand Dining Room, it’s a call back to an earlier era – maybe not Gentleman Jack’s pirate days, but still a bygone time.
fter a hearty breakfast, my new friends tell me they’re eager to show me the treasure here. There must be a large stash, if they’re willing to share! These travelers aren’t like the sailors I know. They keep talking about glass balls like fishermen use. They say it’s not time for those, but to come in January or February when they are hidden on the island to find. They are curious indeed if glass balls are precious to them in a place that boasts of gold. Their carriages are also strange contraptions but the conveyances are swift!
Now I find myself at a infirmary of sorts. But it’s for turtles! There are physicks here who heal sea turtles! They call this the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. And it’s not just an infirmary. People pay to come in and learn more about the sea creatures and to watch what they do here. They call it “rehabilitation” and the medicks say they will release the turtles back to the deep when they are mended. I shan’t tell them about the fine turtle soup that Cookie makes on board the Diamond Duchess. They keep calling this place a treasure, yet I see no gold or jewels. The stash must be well hidden.
on Jekyll Island, it’s a must to visit our local sea turtle rescue and rehabilitation center, the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. Learn more about these fascinating creatures and their life cycles, see “patients” being treated and hear about their care. During nesting season, in June and July, you can join the Turtle Center staff and volunteers for special beach experiences like Evening Turtle Walks and Ride with Night Patrol. These unique programs are exciting for all ages and finding a nest is a real treasure! Visit jekyllisland.com for more information and pricing. It’s worth parting with some of your doubloons for this experience!
hese merchants don’t haggle over prices and the buyers seem willing to offer coin. This could be a good place to bring wares from the ship for sale, a tidy profit could be made, methinks. Not a gentleman’s life, but not a pirate’s either. But for now, we stop for some ale and another meal at the wharf. The tavern here is called the same: “The Wharf.” The ale is served in fragile glasses and not hearty mugs, but it is cold and refreshing, and a treat on this warm day. The food brought on the platters is well-cooked seafood and something they call “fries.” Cookie could learn something here. Some minstrels or troubadours sit outside and regale us with music. No one joins the singing. Maybe with some more ale. Again they mention treasure. This time, they say it’s the sunset view over the water from this spot. Methinks these might be clues that lead to the chests of gold.
on the historic Jekyll wharf at The Wharf Restaurant. They open for lunch 11:30am-4:30 p.m. and dinner 5:00-10:00 p.m. daily. Bar service is 5:00-11:00 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 5:00 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. There is live music Thursday-Sunday. Call 912.635.3612 or visit jekyllclub.com to see menus and more information.
e swing sticks to hit a little ball in a hole. “Miniature golf,” it is named. They tell me that “golf” is a different sport altogether and that is something played on these islands too. They are amused by my ignorance. In this “miniature” game, instead of just hitting the ball straight into a hole, you must avoid obstacles in the path. It seems a silly endeavor, but it was a pleasing way to pass time. With no gambling or drinking involved, it is not raucous sport, so there are children here. This is a strange tribe indeed.
has a family-friendly facility with two 18-hole courses of varying difficulty, located at the corner of N. Beachview Drive and Shell Road. Call 912.635.2648 for hours and prices.
am restless. I feel out of place. The ways here are so foreign to me, but the people are friendly. They want to walk on the beach. There we see hoards of others. Many are nearly naked like the other tribes we have seen on more tropical islands. They lie on the sand, maybe this is a ritual. Music is everywhere. There are people in the water. The threat of sharks must have passed. I see children with buckets and spades, digging. Is this where the treasure lies? If so, the wealth must be so great for it not to be protected and so easily plundered by many. I have only seen shells, driftwood, the occasional sand dollar, and odd, mostly round colorful objects that my new friends pick up. I ask whether they are some type of coin and they shake their heads with a look of sadness, “Trash. People need to clean up after themselves. We want to keep our beaches nice.” As they toss the objects into large containers when we leave the shore, it calls to mind bilge water being thrown overboard. Ahhh. Trash. I understand.
Tonight we dine well again, at another fine establishment, “Eighty Ocean Kitchen and Bar.” I sampled something called “pizza” and we enjoyed spirits by an outside fire. I could get used to this place, I think. Another night in the castle and more exploring tomorrow. They tell me we will go visit St. Simons Island. That is where the lighthouse shines. Perhaps the treasure is there, although there is still much to discover here on Jekyll Island.
After a good night’s sleep, I walked back over to Eighty Ocean to see if they might have more of that pizza for my morning meal. Alas, they did not, but I found chicken and waffles to be quite delicious. There was much fresh fruit, something I always enjoy in ports, because the salt tack and biscuits on the ship can become wearisome.
features locally inspired meals and cocktails in an open-air, oceanfront setting. Breakfast is offered exclusively for Jekyll Island Club Resort guests, with lunch and dinner open to the public. Visit jekyllclub.com and look for Eighty Ocean under the Dining page to see menus and make reservations.
mermaid? This I must see! I have only heard tales about these heavenly creatures of the seas. I meet my friends and share the news that we must find a locale called Fuse Frozen Co. to see this mermaid in the flesh! They are amused and start regaling me with song. “Under the sea, under the sea…” They ask if it’s Ariel that we’ll be meeting. Mermaids must be commonplace here, because they seem to be quiet familiar with this Ariel and aren’t surprised by the notion of a siren. We cross a large bridge to find the Fuse in a towne known as Brunswick. Its structure reminds me of the sails on our ship and I marvel at all these horseless wagons we pass as we travel. The speeds are dizzying and make me long for the openness of the sea once again. When we arrive, I’m surprised to see that Fuse is no port or atoll. The mermaid has left the water and is talking with children. This mermaid is not named Ariel, but she says they are good friends. She is called Jessica. I find her enchanting and am determined to bring her on board so I can return her safely to the sea where she belongs.
you and your children can meet the Golden Isles Mermaid at Fuse Frozen, Co., the newest Fuse location at 10445 Canal Crossing in Brunswick. Enjoy frozen custard and other fintastic treats that will be created for Mermaid Jessica’s special visit between 6:00 and 8:00 p.m. that evening. A photographer will be there for this unique shell-abration!
he says she is happy here where she can come and go as she pleases. But methinks she would be better off with her people in the deep. I must think on this and find a way to convince her. My friends try to cheer me with the delicacy “frozen custard” that the merchants offer at Fuse and tell me they have a surprise for me later in the evening. Cold and sweet, it is a treat that lifts the spirits. It is curious that these natives eat so frequently, although I do not see them working the heavy tasks of hoisting sails or other such physical labor.
Now we head to this island of St.
Simons. My friends tell me that there are more merchants here to visit and explain that this land was once fought over by the English and the Spanish. Ah, these new Americas. They act as if it is another time. Surely, it cannot be. But it is so different from all I know. When I question this, they tell me we’ll start at Fort Frederica, so I can see the history and learn about the island.
in 1742, Spanish and British forces clashed on St. Simons Island to decide the fate of Georgia. The British troops at Fort Frederica defeated the Spanish, ensuring Georgia’s future as a British colony. Today, the National Park Service protects the archeological remnants of Fort Frederica and preserves the artifacts there. Located on the north end of the island, at 6515 Frederica Rd., the Visitor Center is open 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. seven days a week; gates to the park and parking area are closed at 5:00 p.m. History awaits.
y friends suggest we should visit a church nearby and walk through the cemetery. We arrive at Christ Church Frederica, a quaint chapel in the midst of beautiful oaks. Yet, I can say that churches have never had much appeal for me or most of my kind, and as I walk outside, the idea of seeing graves of people who have not been born yet in my time is more than I can bear.
at Frederica is located at 6329 Frederica Rd. This historic site is an active congregation but has many tales to tell as a popular tourist attraction. It is open to visitors and welcomes thousands each year. Learn more at ccfssi.org.
that we go to the “heart of the island” and find the lighthouse. In all of this confusion, I forgot that there was treasure here to seek. Perhaps the lighthouse can lead me to the place where the treasure is hidden or a look around will help me get my bearings and get the lay of the land. We stop near the pier, where many people are gathered, and we walk to the tall white structure from there. There is much hustle and bustle in this area. It is easy to see why they consider it the “heart,” it reminds me of our busy ports, although I see no ships docked here and no warehouses on the water. As we climb the 129 steps to the top, I can breathe easier. This feels more like home.
he current Lighthouse and Keeper’s Dwelling were built in 1872 to replace the original lighthouse, which was built in 1810 by James Gould of Massachusetts, the first lighthouse keeper, and destroyed by Confederate forces in 1861. The St. Simons Lighthouse has the distinction of being one of only five surviving light towers in Georgia. The Lighthouse is in use as an active aid to navigation for ships entering St. Simons Sound, with its beam reaching approximately 23 miles out to sea. The Keeper’s Dwelling that was the home of lighthouse keepers from 1872 until the 1950s now houses the Lighthouse Museum, and includes interactive exhibits, rare artifacts, and period rooms that reveal the history of St. Simons Island and the life of a lighthouse keeper. For hours of operation and tour rates, visit coastalgeorgiahistory.org.
LET US HELP YOU DRESS TO RELAX AT HOME OR ON VACATION
hen we come down, we stroll back to stop in many merchant shops. I find myself drawn to Go Fish, where I consider colorful dresses and adornments that I think Jessica would like. These may help me convince her to come home with me. And the name of the store made it the ideal place to shop for a mermaid, methinks. But there are many shops here with fine wares and clothing. I find new, lighter, clothes for myself in Island Republic. These “sandals” are much more comfortable than my hot and heavy boots. Island Couture and St. Simons Memories are also filled with apparel fit for a mermaid. It is at Golden Isles Bracelet Co. that I find gold and silver bangles and necklaces that would be a treasure to anyone. Fashioned in shapes like oysters and crabs and the entwined dual S that signifies this island, I must take some with me. If not to convince the fair mermaid to join me, at least to remember my visit here.
Following delicious smells and happy laughter, we stop at a place called Zuzu’s for an afternoon meal. My friends insist I try a “cheeseburger” with the fries I liked so much from the other evening. After that, I am starting to understand why these people eat the way they do. How can they not when everything is so delicious?! I have seen many people on those two-wheeled contraptions called bicycles. That seems a good physical exercise. My friends say that you can buy or “rent” these bicycles at many places here and on Jekyll Island too. I have seen no horses for transportation, but my friends also assure me that there are stables here and visitors to the island often employ a riding tour guide to take them for sunset horseback rides on the beach. Methinks they should just have their own horses and ride whenever it pleases them, but looking at the houses, I’m not sure where the horses would be kept. The bicycle would eat less too.
My friends want to continue visiting merchants and perusing their wares, and they take me to other places on the island with more offerings. We go to Redfern Village, where we visit a Planters Exchange, (yet I saw none of these planters), Two Friends (there seemed to be more than just two here) and Wild & Personal (I think the owner herself might have made a good pirate). Then we break for ale and to try some oysters at something they call a “raw bar” named Catch 228. Hearing me mention Mermaid Jessica, they say they too have a mermaid I should meet. Alas, their “Alana” is merely a mermaid figure, not a living siren. But there was more beyond Redfern Village: St. Simons Drug Co., where there is not only a physick and powders for head pains, but silver platters, and toys for children! Maggie’s Boutique, where the ladies introduced me to a fierce bulldog and told me about a game called football. It is all so interesting!
When we visited Joseph Jewelers, it dawned on me that the treasure that I have been seeking has most certainly been discovered and much of it lies in these doors. Emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, all sparkle brightly among ropes of gold and circlets of silver.
And there were still more shops. Near Joseph’s in The Shops at Sea Island, there was Gentlemen & Lady Outfitters, where the name pleased me as much as the selection of clothing and footwear inside. Replenishing my wardrobe for time here was simple indeed. Then on to The Shops on Market Street, where I met my ship’s namesake, Duchess, at Ronne’s. The sweet dog owned by the lady merchant greeted me at the door, and while her master showed off the vast inventory of the shop, I considered that she too might be a good companion to sail the islands. Shackelford, Tibi, and Butler’s Stash nearby, and then Mixed Nuts and Saltwater down the road. The good people of St. Simons Island surely are not lacking in anything with all the shops here. There were even more shops than these with wares that would rival any world market I have visited.
My friends then tell me that we must go change clothing for the evening’s “surprise.” Instead of returning to the castle on Jekyll, they have found rooms in an equally impressive castle right here on St. Simons Island: The King and Prince. It must be fit for a king! I find myself in a room where I can see and hear the ocean and walk out on a lush grass lawn with a swing. They have a large pool here when people swim, instead of in the nearby ocean. I think back to the sharks, it is understandable. And the hot shower in the room is a decadent luxury I enjoy immensely. Now in my new clothes, I am ready for the night’s festivities.
is located at 201 Arnold Road, on St. Simons Island. Learn more about accommodations and services at kingandprince.com.
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es, they understand the pirate life. It seems that we are here for some sort of celebration, being held in the distillery amongst the casks. As long as there is plenty of the sweet spirit to sample, I am happy to attend this festive affair. It’s named “A Night in Terror Town.” Sounds perfect for a pirate. Except they kept talking about wanting to beat the Pirates…perhaps I should be concerned.
a fundraising event for the 2019 Red Terror Football program, will be held Thursday, June 6, from 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. at Richland Rum in Historic Downtown Brunswick. The ticketed event will feature complimentary rum tastings, special “Red Terror” cocktails crafted by Richland Rum, tasty food bites, music, a silent auction and a few surprises. Tickets are $60 for individuals, $100 for a couple. For more information about tickets for the event, contact Christine Pierce (cfpierce@hotmail.com) or Jennifer Rose (jarose@bellsouth.net). Party like like a pirate…errr…a Terror!
y friends tell me of the many musical concerts and events that are held here, showing me a large iron “Brunswick Stew” pot, that looks like our ship’s kettle. They advise me to try the Brunswick Stew at a place called Southern Soul Barbeque to taste the stew named after this towne. They tell me of the shrimp boats that trawl these waters, making a living from the sea. That, at least is a familiar story. They tell me people can pay to board a retired shrimp boat to watch them trawl and learn more. People also pay for boats to take them fishing and to ride on boats to see dolphins and watch the sunset. I smile, hearing that people pay to do these things that are everyday occurrences in life on a pirate ship. They also tell me of the tall sailing ships that have visited here recently. The Lynx, a privateer, and the NAO Santa Maria, modeled after Columbus’ own, have sailed these waters and taken passengers aboard. Currently, there is a large barquentine docked here called the Peacemaker. There is a sign saying it’s for sale. Perhaps this should be my new ship, but a Peacemaker for a pirate, even a gentlemen pirate? I will think on it, and my plans to woo Jessica the mermaid aboard. I would need a crew, but there are many able-bodied men here, maybe some of those Terrors, or the Pirates they mentioned. But where would I go? I hear tell of treasure on a place they call Sea Island…
like Gentleman Jack, as a visitor, or with fresh eyes. There is much to explore here, and you’ll see that treasure can be found virtually everywhere you look. And you may spy a mermaid too!
4975 Altama Ave. 912-265-8661
