21 minute read
As Southern As
The legacy of the South is more than just fried chicken, biscuits, and sweet tea. Southern culture embraces a wide range of influences from the mountains of Appalachia to the plains of Texas to the swamps of the Deep South. We’re just as comfortable sipping juleps in our fine Derby Day millinery or eating pimento cheese sandwiches by the greens in Augusta as we are casting nets in the tide or shucking oysters by a fire. From the Big Easy to the Big House, our music spans wide genres and its roots can be found in churches, cotton fields, honkytonks, and concert halls. Sure, we’ve got baseball caps and old pickup trucks, but we’re also the French Quarter and the squares of Savannah. Next month, Sea Island hosts the Southern Grown Festival that encompasses all of what’s best about the South. Our hospitality. Our pastimes. Our music. Our art. And, yes, our incredible cuisine.
From Thursday, June 9th through Sunday, June 12th, Sea Island Resort venues like the Black Banks Terrace and Broadfield Plantation will be filled with sensational food, music and more during this celebration of all things Southern. There is a stellar schedule of events with (continues)
incredible chefs and guest artisans, and a Saturday night concert with Grammy Award winning performers Jason Isbell and Tedeschi Trucks Band, as well as Ivan Neville’s Dumpstaphunk. Southern Grown University classes will touch on some of the finer points of Southern living including our culinary mainstays, outdoor endeavors, artistic expression, and time-honored history of hospitality.
Belying our rich hospitality, you’ve seen pineapples throughout your travels in the South, as door knockers, statuary, post carvings, and incorporated into homes and yard décor. The tropical fruit is a well-known symbol of welcome friendship and hospitality. It began when Christopher Columbus brought the tropical fruit back to Europe from his travels to the New World. The novelty of its unusual look and its intense sweetness made it quite a delicacy. Since there was no local source, and gardeners could not manage to propagate the fruit to grow there for almost two centuries, it was also coveted because it was rare. Only the very rich could afford to offer pineapple to their guests, so it became a symbol of generosity, hospitality, and wealth. The pineapple began making its way into paintings, was carved into wood and stone, and became an architectural feature in many mansions and government buildings. The popularity of the fruit and its significance as a show of gracious hospitality carried across the sea to Colonial America. Hostesses honored their guests by displaying the fruit in centerpieces or by serving the rare and expensive treat. It was a show of social status and now has become widely accepted as a sign of welcome, friendship, and good cheer. In another words, the perfect symbolic image of good ole Southern hospitality!
With or without pineapple embellishments, here below the Mason-Dixon line there’s nothing that says “welcome” and “come sit for a spell” quite like a wide front porch with some rocking chairs and a pitcher of sweet tea. No, not “iced tea.” Sweet tea. Yes, it does have ice, of course. (continues on page 20) Pepper Jelly Pimento Cheese
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS:
1 ½ cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated 4 oz. jar diced pimento ½ cup mayonnaise (Duke’s preferred) Several dashes of Crystal hot sauce 1 Tbsp. pepper jelly (recipe below, or use your own) Salt and pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS:
Mix all above ingredients into a mixing bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste, as well as the hot sauce.
Pepper Jelly
Makes approx. 16 oz.
INGREDIENTS:
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ small jalapeño pepper, diced ¼ tsp. crushed red chili flakes 1 Tbsp. sugarless pectin 1 cup plus 1 ½ Tbsp. sugar 1/3 cup white wine vinegar 1 tsp. unsalted butter ¼ tsp. salt
DIRECTIONS:
Pulse peppers with red pepper flakes in food processor until finely chopped. Whisk together pectin and 1 ½ Tbsp. sugar in small bowl. Stir together pepper mixture, vinegar, butter, salt, and remaining sugar in a heavy pot. Bring to vigorous boil over high heat, then continue to boil, stirring occasionally for five minutes. Gradually add pectin mixture, whisking constantly. Return jelly to boil stirring constantly, for one to two minutes (mixture will thicken slightly). Remove from heat. (continues on page 29)
Pepper Jelly Pimento Cheese with Pork Rinds
This is not a seasonal drink, but a year-round staple of restaurants and many Georgia kitchens. It’s such an important distinction that in 2003, Georgia State Representative John Noel and four co-sponsors introduced (to bring a little levity on April Fools’ Day) House Bill 819, proposing that all Georgia restaurants that serve tea be required to serve sweet tea “As used in this Code section, the term ‘sweet tea’ means iced tea which is sweetened with sugar at the time it is brewed.” They specified that any violators “shall be guilty of a misdemeanor of a high and aggravated nature.” While the sponsors acknowledged that it was an attempt to add some humor to the legislative session, they wouldn’t have minded if it had become law.
Politics and Southern tradition go hand in hand as well. Mississippi Senator Trent Lott even went so far as to promote a summertime staple of the Southern gentleman’s wardrobe by starting an annual U.S. Congress tradition called “Seersucker Thursday” in 1996. On that day each year senators good-naturedly don the striped cotton suits that were once considered mandatory summer attire in the sweltering pre-air conditioning days of the Senate chambers. The tradition took a hiatus in 2012 but was restarted in 2014 by Louisiana Senator Bill Cassidy, who wrote, “Seersucker is more than fabric – it’s a symbol of American made products that create manufacturing, shipping and sales jobs across the country. It is also the melding of fashion with comfort.”
Now you’re probably picturing men in seersucker suits sitting on a front porch, sippin’ sweet tea, If so, they’d surely be telling tales even taller than the glasses dripping with condensation in the Georgia summer heat. You see, storytelling is an art down here. Yarns are spun in vivid detail, peppered with anecdotes, and occasionally embellished for entertainment value. The South is home to a large number of storyteller’s guilds, organizations, and festivals. The annual festival held by the International Storytelling Center in Tennessee draws more than 10,000 attendees. If you’re an all access pass holder to Southern Grown, stick around after Friday’s Meat & Three Dinner for the Storied Spirits-After Hours Affair, where tales will be told while libations are enjoyed in the Spanish Lounge in true Southern fashion. (continues)
Broadfield Plantation, photo by Sea Island
Saturday’s Southern Grown University classes offer both “The How-To of Southern Storytelling” and “The Art of Southern Hospitality.” Outdoor enthusiasts may want to choose classes from the Broadfield Plantation Experience which offers visitors the opportunity to travel down to Sea Island’s spectacular hunting property to sharpen up your shooting game or get pointers on bird dog training. “Culinary Gardening” and “Cooking with Fire” are alternate options at the plantation. A Southern comfort cuisine lunch in the Summer Kitchen will be included. Other sessions delve into Southern cooking and baking, but we would be remiss if we didn’t point out that the entire weekend is filled with events celebrating our regional cuisine and featuring some of our finest chefs. If you truly want the full experience, become a Garden & Gun pass holder to gain access to two early exclusive Garden & Gun events. The Thursday night Dinner and Show at a secret location will display the talents of Sea Island Resort Executive Chef Jonathan Jerusalmy and Charleston chefs Mike Lata and Nico Romo. Friday’s The Southerner’s Cookbook Lunch in The Cloister Garden will give attendees the chance to get up close and personal with the editors and chefs behind Garden & Gun’s fabulous New York Times best-seller, The Southerner’s Cookbook. A book signing will follow the lunch prepared by Chef John Currence, and Harrison Sapp with Griffin Bufkin of Southern Soul Barbeque.
Low and slow, butts, brisket, and rubs are all part of the Southern vernacular because barbeque is serious business. It’s a Southern specialty and smoke joints are always hot to show that they – or their region – do it best. Harrison and Griffin will talk competitions and cook-offs in Saturday’s “Smokin’ Rivalry – BBQ Battle” Southern Grown University class. Our local boys have been taking the Southern Soul Barbeque game on the road for years now and you can bet they know a thing or two about working the pit.
Chefs Michael Hudman and Andrew Ticer will present “Rollin’ in Dough” during Southern Grown University. In the South, when we think of dough, that has to mean biscuits. While biscuits are certainly consumed everywhere (including jolly old England, where they are an entirely different and confusing entity falling somewhere between a cracker and a cookie), there’s no doubt that there is a specific Southern biscuit. While some say these require buttermilk, others disagree. The scales tend to tip in favor of using lard instead of butter or shortening for the purists as well. The common denominator that all seem to agree on, however, is the flour. Southern biscuits are made with soft red winter wheat flour that is low in protein and gluten. White Lily and Southern Biscuit (continues)
brands are recommended. The other thing the pros agree on when it comes to creating the light, fluffy Southern biscuits that we love to slather with honey or smother with sausage gravy? Technique. Keep the ingredients cold. Use a light and gentle touch with the dough and avoid over-handling. A common mistake to avoid is twisting the cutter. Don’t do it! That twist actually seals the biscuits and keeps them from rising and cooking properly. Practice, practice, practice, and you too can make Southern biscuits that would make Granny Pearl proud.
Michael Hudman and Andrew Ticer
Speaking of Granny Pearl, what is it about Southern grandmothers and cakes? Red velvet cake. Coconut cake. Hummingbird cake (There’s that pineapple again!). Caramel cake. It’s a thing. And there’s nothing better than a layer cake. The more layers the better. Sea Island Executive Pastry Chef Cortney Harris will teach Southern Grown University class attendees “How to Make the Quintessential 12-Layer Cake.” You’ll be sure to impress at the next family celebration! To make sure you have the right accoutrements for your table and your entertaining attire, you’ll want to visit the Marketplace at Rainbow Island on Saturday. All pass holders will be able to experience the flavor of the “French Market” of
New Orleans while right here on our own riverbanks. In Big Easy tradition, Rainbow Island will come alive with a variety of Southern artisan vendors selling unique, handcrafted prodAlex Harrell ucts. One vendor we are particularly excited about is Brackish Bow Ties. As the story goes, South Carolinian Ben Ross, in a unique and particularly creative endeavor, fashioned special bow ties for his groomsmen made from castoff turkey feathers. Word spread and the demand for his ties grew, leading Ross to begin collaborating with his college friend (and one of those groomsmen), St. Simons Island native Jeff Plotner. They made and sold the ties for a few years before officially launching Brackish Bow Ties in Charleston. Now a team of 50 artisans and production assistants fill orders from a growing line of lovely designs that range from sportsman to formal and the original turkey feathers to peacock plumage. The ties are conversation starters at least and are exquisite art at best. Bill Murray wore his to George Clooney’s wedding. To say we are enamored (continues)
is an understatement. We can’t wait to see what other handcrafted Southern delights we will find while browsing the Marketplace!
There will also be demonstrations by guest chefs John Currence and Linton Hopkins as well as
other craft artisans. You’ll want to be sure to grab a bite for lunch at the Cook House, where 2016 New Orleans Rising Star Chef Alex Harrell will serve up dishes with French Quarter flair. night’s Meat & Three Dinner in The Cloister’s backyard, the Black Banks Terrace and Lawn. A community-style party celebrating the Southern simplicity known as “the meat and three” will feature renowned chefs, including some Top Chef contestants and James Beard award nominees, showcasing their favorite plates. Will we see fried chicken, mac n’ cheese, and turnip greens? Meatloaf, tomato pie, and hoppin’ John? Or maybe pork chops, squash casserole, and candied sweet potatoes? There’s no question that whatever meat & three combos these talented chefs serve up, they’re going to be GOOD!
While the meat and three plate seems to have hung on as a tradition in the South, it isn’t
far removed from the diners found in northern cities. Late journalist, historian, and food authority, John Egerton, who helped establish the Southern Foodways Alliance, wrote that the meat and three had its basis in the classic plate lunch diners that appeared in the early 1900s. In Southern Food, Egerton wrote that plate lunches were created “back in the days when lunch was dinner and dinner was supper.” Inexpensive custom-made plates with compartments for each portion of a meal were manufactured with a blue willow or similar blue pattern. Meals served on these plates were low-priced and became known as the “blue plate” special. In 1928, a New York Times article praised a dining establishment on Ann Street where a “big blue-plate special, with meat course and three vegetables, is purchasable for a quarter, just as it has been for the last ten years.”
There will be yard games on the lawn and live music will fill the air at the Meat & Three Dinner as well. But it’s Saturday’s Southern Grown
Concert that will be the pièce de résistance when it comes to showcasing the melodious sounds of the South! Our musical heritage below the Mason-Dixon is so very vast, with roots steeped in gospel, bayou blues, juke joint jazz, and cowboy ballads. Southern rock and folk Americana have (continues on page 31)
Meat & Three
The Chefs
Tom Gray Kevin Gillespie Kenny Gilbert Matt Bolus Joey Ward
Apple Buck
(pictured in copper mug)
INGREDIENTS:
2 oz. Dickel Bourbon No. 8 1 oz. Stirrings Simple Apple Martini ½ oz. lime juice 2 oz. ginger beer Garnish: lime wheel Glass: copper mug
DIRECTIONS:
Fill copper mug with ice. Add ingredients to build drink, topping off with ginger beer. Garnish with lime wheel.
Ramos Gin Fizz
(pictured in Collins glass)
INGREDIENTS:
¾ oz. lemon juice ¾ oz. lime juice 5 dashes of orange flower water 1 oz. simple syrup 1 oz. heavy cream 1 egg white 1 ½ oz. club soda Garnish: grated lime zest Glass: large Collins
DIRECTIONS:
In large cocktail shaker, combine gin, orange flower water, egg white, heavy cream, lemon juice, lime juice, and simple syrup. Shake vigorously for 25 seconds. Add ice and shake for 30 seconds more. Strain mixture into Collins glass. Slowly pour club soda down inside edge of shaker to loosen remaining froth. Gently ease club soda/froth mix onto top of drink, garnish with lime zest and serve.
Richland Crusta
recipe on page 32
(continued from page 26) risen alongside mountain music and outlaw country. Nashville. Memphis. Macon. New Orleans. Muscle Shoals. These are places of musical birth.
The band Dumpstaphunk was born on the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival stage and descended from the strong musical bloodlines of the Neville family. Ivan Neville and his cousin, Ian, are joined by Tony Hall, Nick Daniels III, and Alvin Ford, Jr., to form the quintet that Rolling Stone calls “one of New Orleans’
most prestigious modern funk ensembles.” The Austin Chronicle said, “If Dumpstaphunk was a three course meal, it would start with a juicy rhythm section, then move on to a beautiful arrangement of guitars and keys, seasoned with some soulful vocals and add a pinch of Cosmic Slop for good measure.”
If you haven’t heard Jason Isbell’s name in the past couple years, there’s a chance you might be living in a cave. Okay, well, maybe not, but there’s no denying that mainstream media has finally gotten wind of Mr. Isbell and his music. From the late night shows to Austin City Limits to CBS Sunday Morning, the former Drive-By Truckers singer/songwriter, often accompanied by his superbly talented wife, Amanda Shires, has been popping up everywhere. The Alabama native, who appears in the acclaimed Muscle Shoals documentary, has been long been praised for his honest, human songwriting that is both hard-hitting and poignant. The release of his arguably career-defining album Southeastern in 2013 earned him Artist, Album, and Song of the Year awards at the 2014 Americana Music Awards. Last year’s follow up Something More Than Free debuted at number one across the board in rock, folk, and country record charts in Billboard magazine and won Grammy awards for Best Americana Album and Best American Roots Song (24 Frames). Lately, Jason been heralded by many as the “savior of country music” and even of music in general, but he is quick to dismiss those labels. No matter how you characterize his music, it reaches out and grabs you, earning him both fans around the world and critical acclaim.
Hailing from Jacksonville, the Tedeschi Trucks Band has a lineage that can be traced back to that iconic Macon birthplace of Southern rock, The Big House. Guitarist/singer-songwriter Derek Trucks is the nephew of Butch Trucks, the drummer and a founding member of The Allman Brothers Band. Derek, was a child guitar prodigy who played his first paid gig when he was 11 and performed alongside artists like Buddy Guy, Joe Walsh and Bob Dylan by the age of 20. He became a formal member of The Allman Brothers Band in 1999, and after his announcement that he and guitarist Warren Hayes would be leaving the band in 2014, the band retired. Derek has also collaborated and toured with Eric Clapton over the years and Derek's skill with the slide and beyond has led to his name-making appearances on vari-
ous “Greatest Guitarist” lists, including Rolling Stone’s Top 100. He formed the Tedeschi Trucks band with wife Susan Tedeschi in 2010 and their debut album, Revelator won the 2012 Grammy for Best Blues Album. Tedeschi was no stranger to Grammy nominations, being nominated in 2000 for Best New Artist, in 2003 for Best Female Rock Vocal Performance, as well as for Best Contemporary Blues Album for her works in 2004, 2006 and 2010. The vocal and guitar talent of these two combined
Dumpstaphunk Tedeschi Trucks
Jason Isbell
INGREDIENTS:
1 ½ oz. Richland Rum ¾ oz. Triple Sec ¼ oz. Luxardo ½ oz. Simple Syrup ½ oz. Lemon Juice Garnish: Sugar Rim w/ Orange Wheel & Luxardo Cherry Glass: Coupe
DIRECTIONS:
Prepare glass by moistening rim with orange and then dipping it in sugar. Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into glass. Garnish with orange wheel and cherry.
with a 10-piece full band make for an absolutely unforgettable performance.
Saturday night’s Southern Grown Concert will feature all three of these incredible acts performing for one unparalleled evening on the lawn of The Lodge at Sea Island. To add to the experience, all-access pass holders can enjoy a special pre-concert Dinner on the Lawn with culinary specialties and creative concoctions prepared by guest chefs Linton Hopkins, Mike Lata, John Currence, Waylon Rivers and Daniel Zeal and guest mixologists. General pass holders for the concert can sample selections from renowned chefs as well, as food and drink will be available for purchase on the concert grounds. After the concert, there’s a special Late Night Throwdown in the Men’s Locker Room for all-access pass holders as well. The “Farewell, Y’all” Brunch on Sunday for all-access pass holders closes out the weekend festivities.
While we’ve described some of the highlights of the Southern Grown Festival, to get a more in-depth look at the schedule of events and the amazing culinary and musical talent that will be participating, visit the Southern Grown website at SouthernGrown.com. It’s hard to believe that Sea Island could top last year’s festival, but seeing what’s in store for us this June makes us think that they’ve pulled out all the stops for an even bigger and better celebration of the South. You’ll want to attend as many of these fantastic events as possible, so take a look at the different passes and ticket options and indulge yourself by taking advantage of some of the very best hospitality that the South has to offer – right here in our own backyard.
Smoked Beef Brisket
Makes 4-6 lbs.
INGREDIENTS:
4-5 lb. beef brisket (whole) ½ cup Betts Seasoning 1 cup hard apple cider ¼ cup Braggs apple cider vinegar ½ cup granulated sugar 1/3 cup Bulleit bourbon whole grain mustard to taste Recommend using white oak wood
DIRECTIONS:
Rub brisket and place into smoker at 250° for at least six hours or until internal temperature reaches 205° and meat is pullable. Remove from smoker and let it rest on roasting rack to reserve the juices. Take hard apple cider, bourbon, bring to boil and reduce by half to cook off the alcohol. Add sugar and cook until it is a syrupy consistency. Add Braggs cider vinegar as necessary to balance acidity and sweetness. Finish with mustard to taste. Pimento Pepper Jelly Bacon Slider
INGREDIENTS:
1 pack of Hawaiian sweet rolls cut in half Thick cut bacon cut about 1” long Pepper Jelly Pimento Cheese (see recipe page 18) Bread & Butter Pickles (recipe follows)
DIRECTIONS:
Render bacon on a flat top of griddle, remove and wipe away excess bacon grease. Toast the inside of the top and bottom of the Hawaiian rolls. Spread pimento cheese mix on bottom part of roll, top with 2 pieces of bacon and several Bread & Butter pickles. Place back onto the griddle to slightly warm up cheese, and serve
Bread & Butter Pickles
Makes 1 qt. size Mason jar
INGREDIENTS:
1 lb. Kirby cucumbers, sliced ½ cup sweet onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 2 ¼ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. celery seeds ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup white vinegar ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
TASTE OF SOUTHERN GROWN PASS
Includes access to: The Southern Grown Hospitality Suite/ Concierge Service “Welcome, Y’all” Reception Friday night’s Meat & Three Dinner Choice of one Southern Grown University class Saturday’s Marketplace & Lunch on Rainbow Island VIP Concert Ticket to Saturday’s Southern Grown Concert $475 for one, $850 for two
THE ALL ACCESS PASS
Includes all benefits of the Taste of Southern Grown Pass, PLUS: Access to all events Friday, Saturday, and Sunday Storied Spirits-After Hours Affair Choice of two Southern Grown University classes Dinner on the Lawn Late Night Throw Down “Farewell, Y’all” Brunch $950 for one, $1,725 for two
GARDEN & GUN PASS
Includes all benefits of the All Access Pass, PLUS: Cloister Room Accommodations for 3 nights Garden & Gun “Dinner and a Show” on Thursday evening at a secret location Southerner’s Cookbook lunch with Garden & Gun editors and chefs on Friday Special surprises and gifts from Garden & Gun throughout the weekend $3,570 for one, $4,885 for two
À LA CARTE TICKETS: FRIDAY MEAT & THREE DINNER
$165 per person includes all food, drink and music
SATURDAY SOUTHERN GROWN CONCERT
VIP $150 per person
includes two drinks and stage-front access
General Admission – $72 per person
¾ tsp. mustard seeds 1/8 cup light brown sugar pinch ground turmeric
DIRECTIONS:
Salt cucumbers in a large bowl; cover and chill 1 1/2 hours. Rinse thoroughly under cold water. Drain and add onion to the bowl. Combine sugar and remaining ingredients in a medium saucepan; and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Pour hot vinegar mixture into bowl of cucumbers and let stand at room temperature one hour. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to two weeks. Spicy Paloma
INGREDIENTS:
1 ½ oz. Dulce Vida Blanco 1 oz. grapefruit juice 1 oz. jalapeño syrup 2 oz. club soda Garnish: jalapeño slices Glass: large Collins
DIRECTIONS:
In a mixing glass, combine tequila, grapefruit juice and jalapeño syrup. Shake and strain over fresh ice into a Collins glass. Top with club soda and garnish with jalapeño slices.