Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 51 March 31-April 5, 2003 Austin, Texas pg.1 Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 1 of an eleven-part series covering a trip to China that began in Austin, Texas. Haiku, Photos and layout by Jonathan Machen, except where noted. heavy set boyfriends giggle with girlfriends not quite half their size overwhelming scent of her perfumed hand lotion flying to austin on empty concourse even piped-in native music brings tears to my eyes Three days before I leave for China, I try and get my house into order, a task all the more difficult because I manage two houses. I make phone calls that I do not want to make, blood and adrenalin rise, choking my throat, but I stick to my guns. I lead others through the procedures, tell them how to write the lease, plan the calendar. Through the window I watch two people negotiate the fallout of their relationship, while inside two little girls scribble underwater ocean secenes on flimsy pieces of newsprint. Prospective new renters come and nail down one Sunday a month until September. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Austin
Kids fight with foam swords and leave the Big Room smelling like sweat.
calculating risk on my way to the airport i watch a car crash while i contemplate risk of virus in china car in front crashes after collission man dials nine one one on cell driver slumps forward sugar hackberry texas bluebonnet red bird with black mask texas savannah and german architecture converge in austin winecup and philox false aloe and nipple cactus texas persimmon what i took to be possibly a small bird's nest just an ephyphite obsessed by what i notice and don't notice
Sadie and Dee Now, in the cocoon of an airplane headed for Austin I read newspaper headlines from two seats away, and eat small crackers shaped like dolphins. I look at mountains that I have climbed, easily identifiable from 30,000 feet, their summits delineated by snow. On the way to the airport, (preoccupied with viruses I might encounter in China and whether or not I'll even go to china) the lady in the car in front of me swerves wildly, back and forth, for several long seconds, then slams into the concrete median in a flash of sparks. I pull over, dumbfounded, while a man jumps out of his car, already dialing 911. The lady slumps forward against the steering wheel.
Sadie, Jonathan and Gabriel. Photo by Dee Like a cork under pressure, not knowing what to do, I drive on in shock and disbelief. The highway resumes it's relentless pace and I will never know what happened to the woman slumped against the steering wheel, or if the ambulance came fast enough. Sadie is two now and Gabriel is eigtht months. I visit my friends in Austin for the first time since they have had children. Plants grow out of limestone rocks, families take pictures of little girls, in fields of Texas bluebonnets. Nice to see my old friend Tony with whom I used to compose music. Now, with a two-year old tugging at his guitar strings, he is distracted. His eight-month old son cries if no-one picks him up, holds on to my leg with sticky fingers while I try to draw, expresses his needs in unintelligable cries. From the internet, and with a cellphone, I try to gather information about a virus 2000 miles away, in an attempt to make the right decision. I rest uneasily in a sprawling suburb somewhere near the capital of Texas, where houses and fences and lawns look identical and the only people outside are Mexican immigrants who cut grass and lay concrete.
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 51 March 31-April 5, 2003 Austin, Texas pg.2 Before flying to China I slow down in an Austin suburb, near expansive shopping centers whose names seem unfamiliar.
transgressing the rules i check out eleven items in the express lane
I live with a family for five days in their world, making brief forays out of the quiet house, out of the quiet manicured suburban lawns into the frenetic mad rush of heavy vehicles and motors and engines on streamlined white concrete slipstream passageways surrounded by gentle grass and Texas bluebonnets. In Austin, one can get used to highways soaring over shopping malls - when you drive from one endof the city to the next you realize that the eight lanes have soared into a bridge and the city's engineers have spent years and millions of dollars to construct seamless throughways. Tony and Gabriel
The red sun sinks low over Texas hillcountry.
tony's haiku from the lady bird johnson wildflower center:
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Austin while i take a pee slinky possum stares at me in texas scrub-brush
at the healing garden waiting for dee mock pennyroyal and mexican hat
limestone escarpment limestone hideaway i startle frog who startles egret
one moment sixty three steps climbing the tower
clacking through the murk some frog out there unaware of my curious ear
sudden hummingbird i exclaim from the windchimes
spineless prickly pear what gave you such a naked look of mutation?
so many moments perfect blending unstoppable sadie and i climb the tower step by step
McKinney State Park, Austin
dee with camera i with pen fumbling moments
eight month-old baby screams as we drive the highway passing car crashes
ah sadie romps thru the bluebonnets and cactus
not seeming to mind the screams of their two children as they watch t.v.
white water lily and unnamed austin tortiose both lying quite still
2 April 2003 New data from China, WHO team leaving immediately for Guangdong Chinese authorities have today announced updated figures for the number of cases of severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) and deaths in GuangdongProvince. The figures, which cover the reporting period of 1 March to 31 March, are 361 new SARS cases and 9 deaths. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Austin
Tony and Sadie
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 51 March 31-April 5, 2003 Austin, Texas pg.3 angry dalmation in cooped-up house snarling as i receive badly thrown frisbee kids are all 'me now' in austin suburb occasional dog barking morning dove cooing june bugs on front door gather thick under porch light rush hour traffic
Mckinney State Park, Austin Tony's family keeps it's identity and cohesiveness close to the chest. I search for evidence of a social network behind the fenced-off houses, cast from a similar mold, no village to gather in, just ubiquituous store fronts one could find anywhere, the grass and lawns all clipped to perfection under guidance of some obscure property manager's office. It seems that with my cold-accelerated heartbeat, my task in Austin is to appreciate every moment as if it is my last, like the drive seven miles past the wrong turn to Mckinney state park with the unsettling soundtrack of Gabriel crying, and exhaust rumbling motors passing by us. At the state park I relax by drawing for an hour and a half, spotting a Snowy Egret.
the ladies notice his cute eight month-old baby instead of me Tony and Sadie
Tony still wears his hair in a ponytail but has stopped working out, looks contentedly at his new family and student loans and apprenticeship at a local school for acupuncture, one conveniantly squeezed in between a Mexican restaurant and a hobby shop in an Austin shopping mall. He drags his six-string bass from the closet and we listen to songs we wrote together and recorded three years ago. Now, when we try to play them we can't even remember the chords, so we sing old Beatles songs and new songs for children. His babies smear wet fingers from runny noses, crying piteously to be held. I spot my first man with a face mask in the Austin airport.
(Letters to/from Sara Benson)
Hong Kong Airport (Letter to Haiku Group) Hey haiku groupies, I’m ensconsed in an Austin suburb with babies and manicured lawns and a strange landmarkless sensation of nebulosity. Sort of like a holding tank. Just wanted to let people know that I have decided to continue on with my sinophilistic direction and will be flying from Austin to Asia on Friday - not without a lot of stops and late-night sleepy disorientation I am sure, and hopefully without said virus that has been the cause of so much concern. From what I have gleaned, the risk in the areas we are going is low; I have trip insurance, and according to the haiku great masters' code of appropriateness, one should continue on to write haiku if there is any doubt. The trip leader, Pepi Kochhar from India, has a very positive attitude about this trip. And, I think the danger is overblown, though admittedly serious. The World Health Organization yesterday had narrowed their list of travel advisory areas - for awhile it was all of China and now it is the province down by Hong Kong and a few other areas.
at Lady Bird Johnson Center, Austin
Sars, I am still going to call you this even if it is now the name of a life-threatening virus. Besides, I pronounce it differently. I am just about to take a drive to the Austin airport - I've been able to check my mail frequently here at Tony's. We went to a beautiful state park yesterday, the haiku group would have loved it. Suburbs are ubiquituous here. Tony and Dee's two little kids are cute and I have been trying to get over the cold that I already have, so I feel funky, but I'm ready to get over there and get on with it! Tell Jess I wish her happy birthday. I will indeed carry on in the haiku tradition; feeling okay about things right now. lots of love, Jons
the enormity of los angeles, suddenly revealed
>Hi Jons, >> So glad to hear from you. You are probably on your way to Asia as I write. It sounds like a good decsion to continue on your journey and I wish you well. I love the way travel is always life changing, it just can't be helped. I will think of you on your adventures and will send good energy for delightful explorations and strong health. You are brave and good to carry on the haiku tradition. Write and draw lots. I guess that goes without saying. Feed your adventurous spirit. I am off to yoga to calm my nervous system after a voracious week. Boulder is cool yet sunny. Be well my friend and I look forward to hearing from you. Love Sars
mountains of taiwan from thirty nine thousand feet poke through cotton clouds
diaphanous clouds underlit by orange sulphur circling spotlight breathtaking flourescent sweep of l.a. in shimmering basin three generations fuss over mom in wheelchair then kiss her goodbye
tired passengers all wearing surgical masks rest uneasily a somber feeling pervades the hong kong airport i strap on my mask drinking jasmine tea at four am in shanghai jet lag not worn off
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 52 Shanghai, April 6-7, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 2 of an eleven-part series covering a trip to China. Haiku, Photos and layout by Jonathan Machen.
The driver pulls on to a narrow road where families putter on bicycles and police in small mini-vans swerve into oncoming lanes of traffic and I see a man pedalling a bicycle with two trash cans strapped to the rear.
rainy street morning bikers wear ponchos and frowns trying not to get hit old buildings decay new buildings tower above waiting to move in
Yu Gardens, Shanghai Downtown Shanghai Sixteen million in Shanghai, canola and rape seed fields alternate in yellow and green, plots irregular, houses roofed in red, airport smells like a lab, long concrete soviet style architecture, the custom agent reprimands me for straying out of my spot in line. I see my name in a crowd of faces, thankful I can be whisked away the man who picks me up is Qin Zin or 'accurate clock'. We get in a small van with a shifty-eyed driver and I notice a billboard made entirely of flowers, welcoming me to Pudong. Shanghai drawing a large crowd, unfamiliar faces scrutinize my sketch no-one wears a hat or shades their eyes with glasses in shanghai spring sun
Shanghai
Feeling safe in the hotel I venture on to busy chaotic Shanghai streets, surprised how vulnerable and exposed I feel. I am terrified as I stride confidently past swarms of people rushing to and from their late afternoon activities, into the open square in front of the Shanghai train station. When I pause to look, people pause to look at me.
Yu Gardens, Shanghai Off-ramps are marked with Chinese characters carved in rocks. Every inch of arable land is in production, contrasting to the visually pleasing but baren green grass and bluebonnets of Austin's highways.
I follow the irregular circle of a pedestrian catwalk and decide to do a sketch. The observer, me, becomes the observed. Shanghai
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 52 Shanghai, April 6-7, 2003
pg.2
I now feel like a cowboy with my sunhat and wonder if I wear my dark glasses, - will they be be offended? In the evening our small group wanders the nearby streets. magnificent facades of architecture shine under bright spotlights, casting shadows into small canyons of neighborhood apartment blocks. Women iron clothes in streetside booths and we see newly planted trees in the parks, wrapped in thick rope. We think they must be cold. An older woman with a cane demands my money. Shanghai Fortunately there are pockets of respite. Before the morning's tour I walk with Cassandra over that same treacherous intersection in to a park. We are suddenly in the midst of morning routines: a man half-crouching and pushing at the air in front of himself in sustained Qi Gong, ladies practicing T'ai Chi with fans and tassels.
For our first evening meal as a group (the Sierra Club group that I have joined, that is) we are astonished, when loud music is switched on, to see a group of Russian dancers performing a five act variety routine in day-glow nylon costumes. Unable to talk over this sudden barrage, I enjoy the cultural incongruity while sipping tomato and cabbabe soup. The two male dancers are strained and slightly sickly, the women, hard-edged and voluptuous. They quickly pack up after their last dance and exit for their next gig.
Downtown Shanghai
I stroll out to the edge of one exceptionally busy boulevard trying to make sense of the traffic patterns. Yes, there are lights, green and red arrows - people are sporadic, extemporaneous, quixotic in their crossing style, as are the drivers, bikers and moped-wielding inhabitants, who will disregard lights and squeeze past and inbetween pedestrians, slicing their trajectory. People here take risks. Overbearing busses graze mopeds I get stuck in the center of an intersection and freeze while vehicles blaze by, for at least five minutes.
Music from a small radio provides a tempo for a group doing a ritual dance.
From one side of Shanghai to the next a pall of misty cloud haze, automobile exhaust, the sweat and grime of oddly shaped skyscrapers, an unstoppable engine.
Shanghai
Cassandra loves this old neighborhood and I am bouyed by her boldness and appreciation of the street vendors, the ordinary folks walking around, their suspicious gazes bothering me less. Men ride by in bicycles piled high over their heads with goods, others tear apart what look like ancient air conditioners. A few people smile at me.
Shanghai Shanghai
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 52 Shanghai, April 6-7, 2003
pg.3
At the first garden we visit, that of Yu in the city center, I take picture after picture in excitement and later edit most out, except for the few good ones that can contribute towards the fourteen I've allotted per day. I want to stay and sketch I could spend all day here. We are whisked away through the French, then German concession areas. I benefit from the running commentary by Qin Zhong. Yu Gardens, Shanghai
ancient massage chair knotted with banyan tree roots gives relief to back only five acres in the center of shanghai preserved elegance exquisite jade stone over one-thousand years old seventy-two holes family massage path inspires some of our group to take off their shoes
Pepi Kochhar and Gene Goldberg, Yu Gardens, Shanghai Our trip leader, Pepi, wears a turban - it is comforting to know that he sticks out even more than I do.
A funny experience, this, being led from place to place, on a rigid schedule - not enough time to worry or get too anxious about the complexities of travel. It's almost like a job, traveling with an organized group, but one with many perks. Yu Gardens, Shanghai Maomao is our guide. He has gone ahead and arranged the places and times and locations the meals, the busses, the negotiating, on behalf of us.
on the zigzag bridge tourists from many countries look at the goldfish Han Qinhu, Anhuan, Guzhou province, Qing dynasty
in old french concession russian influence fading starbucks encroaching sycamore trees still line old french concession as do pricey shops in german concession government buildings abound busses cut us off
Yu Gardens, Shanghai
Yu Gardens, Shanghai
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 52 Shanghai, April 6-7, 2003
pg.4
The parks where people gather are The only place many can feel community; they leave their new high-rise apartments which have replaced their former sprawling shanty-towns, century-old brick bungaloes the government has decided to tear down, to give them all bathrooms and showers.
Yu Gardens, Shanghai silkworm factory turns into slikworm showroom hoping we will buy soaking silk cocoon transformed into slinky dress for sexy models bobbing in water silky cocoon feeds spindle unraveling thread
One of our group protests this notion, that they are uniformly ordered to leave. Is it so unjust, the communist government, running socialist plans amuck over all? I don't know how they feel. maybe they want their own shower.
We are in a silkworm factory. I am delighted. The ladies, standing hour after hour, thread spinning mechanical bobbins from small round cocoons floating in water.
Shanghai
The translucent delicacy of each strand is swept up onto spindles where a brilliant white mass slowly gathers. I begin to suspect that our visit is scripted - we are led into progressive states of amazement before walking into the showroom. Our small group is outnumbered by uniform-clad sales clerks who stand with arms folded behind their backs.
Shang Hai Tian Hou Silk Factory, Shanghai
Shirts, bedding, clothing of all sorts, arranged for us to buy.
Shang Hai Tian Hou Silk Factory, Shanghai
Across from the silkworm factory is a monumental slab of construction, acres and acres, it seems, wrapped in green mesh with sky-cranes towering over this manufactured megapolis.
Shang Hai Tian Hou Silk Factory, Shanghai
Shanghai
Shang Hai Tian Hou Silk Factory, Shanghai
Shanghai Museum
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 52 Shanghai, April 6-7, 2003
pg.5
Acrobats, Shanghai Center The Bund, Shanghai
Bodhisattava, Song Dynasty, AD 900-1279
We eat more food tempted by dishes that silent Chinese women place on the lazy susan rotating in the center of the table, discussing what the ingredients might really be. We head for the Shanghai museum and have: two hours in which to explore twenty five thousand works of art which is approximately point one two five five five seconds per object or, what i do is start sketching the first beautiful Bodhisattava that i see then a mask and some of the mythical creatures outside, and it is over.
Shanghai Museum
Lokapala, AD 900-1279 Shanghai Museum
But not until we eat once more and watch acrobats perform in an empty auditorium. My vision of the Chinese is transformed again when I contrast the sight of the thousands of slightly scowling masses, pacing the overpopulated streets, to these experts at balance, poise, and farce.
Acrobats, Shanghai Center
chinese acrobats putting risk in perspective while we sit and fret
lovers on the bund until i see a couple fighting on the bund
Shanghai Museum touring in shanghai with jet lag and a head cold at least it's not sars
Shanghai Museum
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 53 Zhouzhuang and Suzhou, Jiangsu, China, April 8-9, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 3 of an eleven-part series covering a trip to China.
Zhouzhuang
Zhouzhuang Suzhou street market so far this morning three people have smiled at me starting to keep count
above the odor two women repair a shirt with sewing machine
farmers doing well in fields outside of suzhou tending canola yellow canola vibrant under murky skies ubiquituous blue uniformity of trucks on nanjing highway trio of sweepers with red hats and leafy brooms cleaning the highway maneuvering bus past small streets and bicycles weaving and honking dance performance in the Master of the Fishing Nets, Suzhou
cool round marble seats perfect for the summer heat in the house of shang
Zhouzhuang, 900-year old World Heritage Site chinese elders walk behind blue shirts and stiff gaze deflecting my smile
peaceful canal float over suspect green water our boat lady sings
construction workers ride to work on bicycles with metal lunch pails
land of fish and rice fifth century canals venice of the east
tourists flock key bridge commemorating painting by chen yi fei
just takes a second for them to switch to english and shout out, 'hallo'
hailing from suzhou i.m. pei later designed ncar in boulder
singing, ‘A wish for a safe journey,’ Zhouzhuang
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 53 Zhouzhuang and Suzhou, Jiangsu, China, April 8-9, 2003 pg.2
Singing in The Master of the Fishing Nets, Suzhou
The Master of the Fishing Nets, Suzhou
tang dynasty dance and music of silken flute evoke where we are culture for tourists perfecting the disciplines from earlier times
Zhouzhuang
back alley ming house along stagnant green canal woman washes pan
Walking through backstreet Ming Dynasty family housing along greywater canals, green pungent water, open latrines for men and women draining into public water - workmen digging in the muck to install new sewer lines - we walk past small doorways opening to cramped clusters of generational living - down the street there are computer shops and industrial centers and old preserved gardens for past humble administrators, but here, women struggle with sewing machines, men carry pipes. I force a smile to old folks sitting above the odorous water and feel intrusive, American, wealthy.
backstreets of suzhou where community bathroom opens to canal
learning the hard way i should have asked her first to take her picture in crowded market i feel like an outsider not here to buy food
Old Suzhou market
Old Suzhou market At the market, a complex layering of sights, smells, vegetable and fish textures, bamboo shoots next to women chopping escargots, bean curd in various formations.
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 53 Zhouzhuang and Suzhou, Jiangsu, China, April 8-9, 2003 pg.3 suzhou, new, old, industrial coffee of original bean redracing bakery weaving through traffic fashon model on moped cuts off bikers
On Tiger Hill in Suzhou Chinese tourists look at me in my cowboy-type hat, ask for photos as if i am part of the attraction, so i rub my fingers together as if to ask for money.
pedicab driver sporting mcdonalds logos waits for customers
Everybody laughs, but a small Chinese girls cries when placed next to me for photos.
just expressionless instead of outright disdain the chinese visage stitching both sides embroiderers take a break every two hours pulling silk through silk bleary eyed state employees copy old paintings
Humble Administrators's Garden, Suzhou once belonging to humble administrators now for all to see wanting to be shown the factories we can't see or are not allowed we find internet for only two yuan an hour instead of fourty all three stories high farmers' cubical houses amidst yellow fields
Suzhou embroidery research institute In the Garden of Secluded Beauty, also a world heritage site
Zhouzhuang
Entrance, Tiger Hill, Suzhou
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 53 Zhouzhuang and Suzhou, Jiangsu, China, April 8-9, 2003 pg.4
Tiger hill, Suzhou- burial spot of Suzhou's founder, reincarnated as a tiger Tiger hill, Suzhou
Tiger Hill, Suzhou tiger hill tower askew, askance, akimboo leaning towards pisa
(letter from Patrick Lynn): Here I am at work, with Cali. You know what that means ... Patty and Tim are at the hospital. They called at 6 and dropped Cali off at 7:30 or so and said they'd call again when there was anything to report, nothing yet. I'll keep you posted.
the king of wu unable to split the stone brought in the army getting accustomed to people staring at me so i just stare back
I enjoyed the haiku. How bizarre that you're over there and I'm over here. Patrick
roaring dyecasting opposite tiger hill suitable balance
Tiger hill, Suzhou
Zhouzhuang
Zhouzhuang
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 53 Zhouzhuang and Suzhou, Jiangsu, China, April 8-9, 2003 pg.5
Pepi, Suzhou
Old Suzhou market
House of Shang, Suzhou
(Letter from Judy Machen) Jon, this is Mom, using Dad's computer. Your little nephew, Marley Davis (named after Bob Marley), arrived this morning (Tues. the 8th) at 10:46! Patty and Tim got to the hospital just after 8 and he came rather quickly. It was intense, Patty said, but blessedly short. Tim managed to survive just fine. The little guy has 10 fingers and 10 toes, blue eyes, more hair than Cali had--and it seems to have a touch of red. He weighs almost 7 pounds: 6 lbs., 15 oz. Patty didn't mention how long he was. She sounded tired but happy; as she spoke, Marley was sound asleep on her lap, in his little cap, after having had a successful first nursing. Patty and Marley will stay overnight at the hospital for observation and then may stay a night at the Bluff St. house, but then they'll return to Estes Park. Cali is with Patrick at work; they dropped her off at P & T's around 7:30 this morning. Dad and I will come up when they're ready for us. Pat and Mike, whom I've just talked to, are on their way to Ft. Collins to look at houses there and may stop by EP for a brief visit on their way back to meet the latest member of the family. More soon! Love, Mom
Zhouzhuang
(Letter to Judy Machen)
Humble Administrators's Garden, Suzhou
Hooray! Wow! How exciting to hear this and so quickly, too! I am still in Suzhou after a day of touring gardens and silk empbriodery places - in the last hour, we did an intense and rewarding walk in a more run-down section of town, with buildings from the Ming dynasty, families are still living in them - canals all smell terrible, very bad sanitation, but a lively market place with lots of people and food. Anyway, it's great to get this news of Marley. Red hair is good. Please tell patty and tim that I am thinking of them all the way over here in China. Thanks for keeping me in touch, if other places have internet service as good as this I shall be able to check in regularliy.
Boatman, Suzhou
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 54 Tongli and Hangzhou, China, April 10-11, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 4 of an eleven-part series covering a trip to China.
Garden of Meditation, Gathering Beauty Pavillion, Tongli Tongli
Gathering Beauty Pavillion, Tongli red-lacquered chamber sun streams through wooden lattice crabs dance on paper
crossing three bridges in the center of tongli ensuring fortune
from the autumn view one can see the winter view or the summer view without reverence for garden serenity japanese tourists shout
carp in abundance on the toll road to tongli duck ponds overflow only for those who could afford to meditate this precious garden heavy stone doorway protection for the family in anhui townhouse
Garden of Meditation, Gathering Beauty Pavillion, Tongli little open space between neighborhoods and towns one massive suburb just what i needed inquisitive chinese eyes while i am sketching
Tongli cormorant holds fish until forced from bulging neck by fisherwoman am i as lovely as the rest of this garden? man takes my photo ancestors' abode where women received women and men received men no lights, no helmet no turn signal, no warning cant find internet
we and the other americans fill chinese ballroom
Garden of Meditation, Gathering Beauty Pavillion, Tongli park for the people made when ancient buildings fall despite their protests they put to good use a forest of scaffolding to build a highway
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 54 Tongli and Hangzhou, China, April 10-11, 2003 tour leader lectures while chinese police ladies inspect nearby shop
pg.2
wall of four seasons concealing wisteria behind in purple
Now a certain repetition settling in with our small group of seven people facing off around a circular table three times a day - my living companions for the next two weeks as we together scrutinize the myriad dishes that come before us in quick succession. The others are all world travelers; I am amazed at how many different parts of the globe we have investigated, lived in, photographed.
young teenage chinese sharing chatter and headphones shouting at the carp
I think of patty back home with a new baby and the 1.3 billion Chinese people here
desperate street vendors rushing to meet me with items of complete garbage
the thing i have not grasped up to this point is how big this population is. the Chinese direction is, in some way, the world's direction.
Longjing, 'Dragon Well' tea plantation, Hangzhou
I am seeing the most densely populated and busy areas of China, to be sure. i can somehow put Malaysia and Singapore in perspective after seeing the mainland.
Tongli
hard to distinguish whistles of exotic birds from those of vendors MaoMao and Gail Goldberg, Tongli Tongli
fattening red carp tourists throw chunks of white bread, watch feeding frenzy bonsai in mirror reflecting grey haze of lake and tourist logjam
Santanyinyue, Hangzhou
Santanyinyue - Three flags reflecting the Moon Island
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 54 Tongli and Hangzhou, China, April 10-11, 2003
Four a.m. thunder awakes me in confusion in high rise hotel
The real history is now, what China is moving into and towards, at this hectic pace of modernization. I sketch fantastic buddhas carved in rock walls only by forsaking the tour with the group - so I don't see part of the temple with the largest buddha in China but I do get to feel the close pressing attention of hundreds of inquisitive chinese tourists who want to look over my shoulder at my drawing, so I sketch aqualine noses and delicately curved eyebrows and stare past the heads of those who stand right in front of me to take pictures of all their friends.
pg.3
Cassandra and MaoMao, Xi Hu (West) Lake, Hangzhou
now, thunder outside. All day long, misty smoggy. The boat ride, like glass on clouds. The tour guide, a metronome of ancient Chinese facts. The dishes of food that pass before us in a steady succession : purple eggplant wedges in spicy oil bamboo shoots with pork pieces watery spinach, watery soup lachong (spicy hot sauce pepi orders) deep fried meats with vegetables pretty chinese waitresses who stand silently behind our table, weak beer.
which more beautiful? song dynasty lake gardens or chinese women plantive peacock cry like a wounded animal in cry of distress like peacock shaking bus engine shudders and spits attracts nearby bus
Xi Hu (West) Lake and gardens, Hangzhou
Ling Yin Temple, Hangzhou
Ling Yin Temple, Hangzhou
pen under pressure finding inner composure while people look on while i sketch buddha red-headed chinese beauty peers at my drawing renaissance paintings as seen through cloudy smoke haze of chinese restaurant Peacocks, Huagang Dong Park, Hangzhou
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 54 Tongli and Hangzhou, China, April 10-11, 2003 pg.4
Longjing, 'Dragon Well' tea museum fine young spring tea leaf destined for super grade A or, next year, grade B
Longjing, 'Dragon Well' tea museum
Longjing, 'Dragon Well' tea museum busy web cafe hard to find a free machine for me to do mail
man presses green tea in giant electric wok hands turning brown
local internet mostly young chinese students playing danger games and smoking
making bamboo fence and practicing opera at bottom of trail
hacking and spitting city dwellers find refuge on peaceful mountain
drivers maneuver according to the tempo unique to china
legions of hikers out for theraputic walk making throat noises
unmistakable bravado sounds of opera in hangzhou forest
Longjing, 'Dragon Well' tea museum
her limp handshake surprising me as i crush each of her fingers
Barbara Lenssen’s haiku: mysterious mist water rippling, boat gliding pagodas hidden willow trees weeping blooming peaches pink, rose,white white peacocks display
Precious Stone Hill, Hangzhou
Xi Hu (West) Lake, Hangzhou
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 54 Tongli and Hangzhou, China, April 10-11, 2003
Huagang Dong Park, Hangzhou
Garden of Secluded Beauty, Suzhou, world heritage site- (near embroidery factory)
pg.5
Ling Yin Temple, Hangzhou
(Letters from/to David Teitler) Ni hao ma Jon, I'll assume you are receiveing messages as well. How is your Chinese? Has the phrase this is my refridgerator come in handy. So, is China pretty fascinating? It is interesting to see how the other 1/5 live. Has anyone touched your arm yet to see what it feels like to have hair on your arm? We are just pluggin along here, ready to plant our garden this weekend. Shaun is almost walking and understanding more by the day. I said wo bu shou...Chinese for No, I don't smoke. Quite a handy phrase. Love, David Nopi hopao mapo Dopave, I don't shopou for sure, plenty of that around here as it is. Here I am in a funky little internet cafe were practically every person is a guy for one thing and playing annoying computer games for another. Nice to hear from you and to think of Shaun almost walking - the kids here are as cute as can be, not to mention the women, which grow on me day by day. Our guide says I can get a Chinese wife if I want...hmmm...is it really that easy? We are in Hangzhou at the moment, about to fly to Kunming. Will be there tonight. We have been touring these famous garden cities in the 'land of fish and rice' near the Shanghai area - went to Suzhou and Zhouzhuang and Tongli as well. I have done some good sketches. You would not recognize China were you to come today, people say it is almost unrecognizable from just 10 years ago. The modernization is intense, and there are so many people here! But it is fascinating and beautiful, too. We went to a tea plantation yesterday and I thought of Angie. Mr Plum managed to sell our group on Super grade A green tea, reserved only for Chinese Bureaucrats, of course. And us. Love to you and the clan, Jon (Letters from/to Sanjay Rajan) Keep it going dude....That is the only way. Can't put Life on hold for some virus with an innocous name as SARS!! A positive attitude is THE biggest factor for a cool trip. Enjoy and keep haiku-iing. May be you will write...."TRAVELS IN TIME OF sars" And based on how things go or don't go, I may be back in India/Bhutan next month. So may catch up with you somewhere in Asia. Stay cool. Sanj =====> _______________> ....trips take people
Thanks Sanjay, you know I will. Sars...my affectionate name for Sara, taken and dragged through the international muck. Why might you go to Bhutan? Jon
Garden of Meditation, Gathering Beauty Pavillion, Tongli
Xi Hu (West) Lake and gardens, Hangzhou (Letter from Patty Machen) Hi Brother! wow, e-mail is cool when you're half way across the world! So, how is the trip?? I got your first e-mail, and mom sent me your itinerary, so I can kind of know what you are up to. We've been thinking about you LOTS! Things are moving along here - I know you got the message about the Little Dude! I started having contractions early Tues. morning, and by 5:15 had gotten over my denial that it was the real thing and woke Tim up (who was awake anyway, having had feelings all night that it was going to happen). We were down at the hospital by 8:15, and he was out at 10:46! It was very intense, but he swooped out so dang fast I only pushed 3 times (whereas with Cali I pushed for about 1 1/2 hours...) We are all doing great - he's a totally cute little alien. Tim thinks he actually looks alot like you, so there you go. I'm feeling really pretty good, although tired, and Cali is doing pretty well too - she wants to see him all the time and show him off to people. So, a new addition, and I can't wait for you to see him. But in the meantime, I hope you are seeing wonderful things and liking your trip-mates and feeling good and drawing alot and having fun! Love, yer Sis
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 55 Kumnimg,Yunan Province, China, April 12-13, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 5 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China. This issue covers Kunming, China.
Seven Star Village
Seven Star Village flying to kunming we eat warm dry buns which i stuff with prepackaged mustard greens and bamboo shoots but am unable to finish Pepi Kochhar, our Sierra Club trip leader, is an Indian native who has settled in New York. After studying engineering and getting a degree in management he decided to enter the real estate market, and is able to conduct most of his business while on the road, using the internet. He wears a turban at all times a light blue or grey wrap around his head, secured in a neat bundle with small pins. He is short and his dark black beard shows signs of white underneath. He has a relaxed attitude and loves the chinese women. Knowing me to be single, he confides to me the ones that really affect him, and mostly I find that I agree.
wearing a red mao t-shirt woman walks up overpass in downtown kunming if you say the word for internet the wrong way you will insult him in his blue turban and exotic countenance he loves the women (pepi)
planning his next trip forest service architect finds a new career (gene)
Keith Anderson on the way to Seven Star Village
spilling hot coffee on the flight to kunming writhing in small seat (keith)
Seven Star Village
Seven Star Village
Keith Anderson, husband to Barbara Lenssen, is a financial consultant from Santa Fe, formerly a grocery store executive. The tallest of our group, he asks insightful questions of our tour guides that reveal a deep understanding of the world and the way different cultures interact.
emailing her son she tells me not to have kids or just teenagers (gayle) Gene and Gayle from Denver: The distant antics of their 19-year old son have amused us as he sends various bits of internet half-truths about his whereabouts, causing them to make a bee line for the internet cafes to try and figure out what is going on. Gene is a retired architect who worked for the Park Service. He is involved in leading Sierra Club trips as well and will be taking a group to Nepal in the fall, as well as leading several backpacking trips in the U.S. His main interest now appears to be traveling and wild erness adventures. Witty, slighty acerbic. Gayle is a greying, bubbly, youthful nurse from Denver, occasionally ribald with a healthy perspective about life and its pitfalls. Dour sense of humor. Both very adventurous and curious.
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 55 Kumnimg,Yunan Province, China, April 12-13, 2003
recounting her trips without bothering to count she has seen the world (barbara)
We stop at a local village, one that apparrently puts up with tourists examining their somewhat cramped and preindustrial surroundings.
Barbara Lenssen is a semi-retired psychologist in her 70's who has traveled extensively. She has lived in Santa Fe for many years, has made seventeen trips to Africa, is a lover of green chilis on toasted cheese bread and the Santa Fe Opera. She, along with Cassandra, shares my interest in writing haiku as a way of invoking a sense of our unusual surroundings.
The outside world does get through but much remains the same. We walk on pathways of wheat to help break the seed, watch locals at work, locals sittin'.
families threshing wheat in center of yu village old folks just look on terraces outside close red brick walls inside open pit latrine
pg.2
Quxing Cun, Seven Star Village, Yunan
banging wheat on drums any way to separate the staff from the chaff
Quxing Cun, Seven Star Village, Yunan
rescuing our group from inept chinese waitress at crisis moment (maomao)
Quxing Cun, Seven Star Village, Yunan
stealth rearing their pets walking their dog after dark chinese fear the fine chinese street mural done in style of old landscapes cracking and peeling
Maomao, our guide. Hailing from Nanjing, this man in his early 40's speaks excellent english. this Sierra Club trip is the second he has led. His perspective in China is tremendously valuable to me, and without him we would be flailing completly. He is well organized and totally helpful in helping us manage all the small details of negotiating this intense place.
Our new guide for this section (he said just call him James) flits between comprehension and uncomprehension on the snakey shakey cramped bus ride thru the outskirts of Kunming towards the famous stone forest.
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 55 Kumnimg,Yunan Province, China, April 12-13, 2003
pg.3
The sky is perpetually hazy gigantic coal fired power plant rests uneasily near large lakes, people take the uneven two lane highway in every form of transportation horses, mini-taxis, bicycles, smogbelching government looking trucks James points out the narrow guage railway that goes from Kunming to Viet Nam - high above the highway, something the french wanted in their bid to extract the resources from this rich land - "the land of spring", and transport it through to Viet Nam.
Stone Forest
her large floppy hat and unabashed photo style raise chinese eyebrows (cassandra)
Stone Forest
Probably the most colorful and complex character of the group: Cassandra , in her early 50's. Lost her husband in a plane crash six years ago. Extensively travelled and well educated in literature and the arts, she feels frustrated, as I do, at the short amount of time we have to really explore and investigate. She is the 'princess' of the group, stating so herself at her unflinching readiness to have her exact desires attended to. She attracts much attention wherever we go on account of her floppy hats which take up lots of real estate. she is somewhat demanding but at the same time she can be charming and adventurous. She is bold and unafraid to be outspoken in the face of challenging situations. Will take a picture of anybody.
Stone Forest
deforestation on the hills outside of kunming roadside tree trunks white ducks frolic in creek then end up in a street stall pale yellow teardrops men drinking tea in truck cab propped up on blocks boy scurries after yellow duck chicks
headdress with two horns means the girl is a virgin or just plain horny
Seven Star Village, Yunan
At the Stone Forest I avoid the expected tour lecture and disappear as soon as we get near the stone formations, after lunch - to draw - and I have so little time to do so. When will I ever be here again? I do two drawings we head back to Kunming spending far more time on the highway than we do at our destination
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 55 Kumnimg,Yunan Province, China, April 12-13, 2003
pg.4
Seven Star Village, Yunan
Seven Star Village, Yunan
Seven Star Village, Yunan
god of protection on pink transparent paper outside yu doorway
horse drawn veggie carts mercedes benz and blue trucks share busy highway no one notices cannabis plant in compost except me that is
tradition be damned horns on hat get in the way of brand new cell phone tips for the tourists: not allowed to touch the horn but you can grab the bell
dressed for the tourists colorful horny head gear by thorny grey karsts
on the way to Seven Star Village, Yunan
limestone carst landscape blue butterflies flit between eroded grey fins
I escape into CNN on our return to the hotel and obsess about world politics - the statue of Saddam falls in Baghdad while I drink green tea
finally at forest made entirely of stone just one hour to sketch
For dinner we go to a production of 'Jixin banquet dance of China' and attempt to eat while we are overstimulated with theatrics and costumes
glad i'm not riding my tour bike in this traffic like that couple is
yunan concert meal hard to focus on the food with kingdoms clashing just like mr plum auction lady works the crowd for song dynasty vase
parasols behind floating pink lotus blossoms skin colored lycra
generations change but the land remains the same young people wander Jixin Banquet Hall, Kunming
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 55 Kumnimg,Yunan Province, China, April 12-13, 2003
pg.5
(Letter to haiku group) Hey folks, I hope everyone is having a good saturday morning (unless you are in India like Bodhi, or it is Monday). Here it is 8:24 pm; our group flew into Kunming today after spending a couple of days in Hangzhou. Sierra Club trips are not all backpacking and campfires, let me tell you. They pretty much let the local guides call the shots, and so far that has included eating very well and me being able to focus on photos, haiku and drawings- how great. We have a very proficient man named Mao Mao who is accompanying us until the trip ends; He is from Nanjing, himself excited to return to these more western parts of the country. I have found myself facing (a group previously unknown to me) of the same six other people for breakfast, lunch and dinner ever since arriving here - some might say this would be madness - but it actually has been a lot of fun. A couple from Denver, one from Santa Fe, Pepi from New York and Cassandra from Portland. I am the youngest one, and up to this point, the one with the worst cold. As such we have already become a fairly tight group, given the surroundings and the adventure we are sharing. Oh my god, the guy next to me just lit up his cigarette and I am just starting this letter, crap. There are just so many unusual aspects to this place - shaking me out of my Boulder complacency. And, of course a lot more pollution, very intense. Asia is just pounded with people. Well anyway, here are some more haiku from the evolving collection: (Letter from/to Sanjay Rajan) Dude sounds like fun.... i am getting out of the "America" complacency and heading to Bhutan...Apr 24 to May 17th. So I should be on other side of the border. Enjoy and get over the damn cold!! ;) Sanjay
Sanjay, cold is almost gone but plane flights have been bad for my ears. I have a bunch more flights to go, too, but overall I now have more energy than when I first came over. Sounds like you have some good plans. Talk to you later- Jon
Seven Star Village, Yunan (Letters from/to Bodhi Vardan)
Jonathan Glad you have finally escaped to Asia. We are closer now, physically. Your message and Haiku help me tune in. May your travels bring deep joy. May curiosity arise and find its fulfillment. Different Vardan Silence has gone deep inside All things Suchness Vardan feels clear to come back to Boulder by early June at the latest. Nothing is certain but the presence in this very moment, the particle that is now. Now Now . . . The rest is infinite possibility. infinite love Vardan Hey Ben, good to hear that Vardan is planning on coming back early June. Though I wouldn't be surprised if it was July...I am finding lots of opportunities for poetry and art. Thinking of you my friend, just a short ways away! Today we fly to Kunming, (Letters from/to Sara Benson) Sars, I'm still going to call you this because the pronunciation is so different. thanks for writing back and telling me of your reality. I am thinking of all my friends back home. Just be glad you don't have to spend your day threshing wheat by hand, like in this minority Yu village we saw today! will write again soon. lots of love, jon
Seven Star Village, Yunan
Hi Jonsers, So fun to hear from you and get a glimpse into some of your travels and experiences. Sounds like the Sierra Club situation is good. People to connect with and some guidance to inform your travels. Sounds fun! Good to get far away from Boulder and be in a whole different reality. Gives you perspective. Will love to see photos and hear more stories. Your haiku is very cool. Thanks for the glimpses into China. Life here is very springish. Patty had her baby as I'm sure you've heard. Congratulations on being the proud uncle of Marley. I think that's an awesome name.
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 56 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 14, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 6 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China. This issue covers Dali, China
distant snowcapped peaks rice fields, cultivated ground landing in dali
dali street market bartering and haggling for silver jewlry
mountains surrounding red earth and green rice terraces airport on plateau
baskets strapped to head holding squirming piglet pair and lively rooster
door porter yawning early morning in dali under silver pearl
cassandra shopping leaving behind her a wake of bai shopladies
red tassel, red string indicates a single girl three years hard labor if you want to marry her
Lu Yu, Finger Painter, Lanlinge Hotel, Dali
artist in front of the Dali library Cassandra being chased by Dali vendor no sign of lovers who committed suicide at butterfly spring
Dali street market
snow flower wind moon on their big hats china's vice premier visits dali, forcing us to take the back roads married then divorced with a war in the middle the cycle of life kublai kahn's backyard man sweeps hoe decisively colt nuzzles mother
Butterfly Spring, Dali
Dali street market
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 56 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 14, 2003
pg.2
Dali street market Dali tye-dye factory above lake erhi birds sing, chinese loudspeaker fliters from below
scuz in the gullies indigo dye in the vats both looking quite blue woman at Dali street market
watermelon juice frothy amidst flat salt cake melon flute drones on
towards the pagodas we float as if in a dream on slow moving chair
springtime in dali orange-seated chairlift takes us soaring above lake
man chipping a rock below terraces of tombs i glide on chairlift
Dali street market
Dali street market
Dali street market
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 56 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 14, 2003
pg 3
Dali architecture Zhonge si
Zhonge si
Zhonge si
Zhonge si
Zhonge si
slowly up chairlift past ancestors' tombs and mounds spreckled with incense taoist priest smoking in temple of supreme god, zhong he shi hanoki cypress at the base of the chang shan japanese import while we eat our lunch man drinks from dragon fountain unleashing great spit
woman at Dali street market taoist deities scowl from secluded shelter i leave no incense
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 56 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 14, 2003
pg. 4
(email from Patrick Lynn) I especially liked the crushing fingers handshake haiku. I don't have anything new to report on Cali because I haven't seen her since last Tuesday when they went back to Estes. The weather here is stupendous spring, everything decided to bud or bloor or grow leaves or sprout or send up some shoots at the same time. Thanks for letting us store that stuff in your fridge yesterday while we were defrosting ours (you might want to think about doing the same!). Gee, those crusty bread loaf heels are going to be fine eating by the time you get back. (email from Patrick Lynn) Geez oh man, it's busy around here. Yes indeedy, Cali is fairly excited about this Marley Makepeace Davis character, a veritable little pink m&m. We took her over to visit yesterday and she was all over the little guy, pointing out his tiny little feet and tiny little hands and suggesting about only a million times that maybe they should change his diaper. Patty spent the night with the new boober in the hospital, Tim slept at Bluff, Cali with us. Cali went to the hospital again this morning for a visit and is now over to the purple door playing with Ana. P, T, & M are headed to the bluff street house now and the lot of them will probably head back to Estes tomorrow morning.
(from Patrick, continued) Don't let those Chinese fool you, they are an especially tricky people, as Duke from the comic book Doonesbury said about 20 years ago, life over there is exactly the same as life right here in Boulder. Packit Packit - it's supendously hot here in Dali, like in the 90's,but that might have been partially because I have a touch of fever with stomach problems. My health has not been great on this trip - I'm still getting over the cold, and now this. We were touring an island in the middle of the lake by Dali, looking at all sorts of strange dried fishes and herbs for male verility and buddhist temples, and I felt like crap. In the morning we took a chair lift ride up about 2000 feet to a Taoist temple where I did a quick sketch - a fun trip up and back. Xizhou, Bai minority village
locking feet, leaping together first a bitter tea to symbolize the struggles at the start of life pinching bride and groom good way to end the wedding if you are bai
Xizhou, Bai minority village
Xizhou, Bai minority village
(email to my parents) Hi mum and dad, just a quick note...we arrived in Dali today, left the hotel in Kunming at about 6 this morning and made a 30 minute flight to this area. Huge lake here, some snow on the peaks high above. We've been focusing on the Bai minority villages, and have a Bai guide. We were able to go to a busy monday morning market which was amazing - I bartered for a few items and took lots of pictures. We toured an ancient village and have just checkedinto the hotel, and I'm about to go out and do some sketching very colorful and lively here, it's quite beautiful. Internet quite slow here. hope all is well, have a good morning! Love, Jon (from Judy Machen) Quick note...it's still Sat. a.m. 4/12, now 11:06. Dad and I have just looked at almost 75 photos, color, of the Stone Forest and the Western Hills. WOW! What sights you're seeing! What fabulous temples, such interesting architecture and such color! How exciting! Mom
Zhonge si and lake Erhi (From Jon to Patrick Lynn) We have a fun guide for this section, one of the Bai minority that inhabit this area. Khubilai Khan settled here in the 1200's and brought Islam to Buddhisim's back door, and there is an islamic community here, but the Bai are mostly Buddhist or are not religious. My hotel window is directly opposite this music shop that has played the same CD on repeat ever since I've been here oh my god! I'm looking forward to those crusts, yum. say hi to Tammy for me. more later, love, J
Dali batik shop
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 57 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 15, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 7 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China This issue covers Dali, China maid thwarting attempt to make timely bathroom break before we rush off dragon shrine village broad beans drying in the sun gateway to jin suo inbetween houses intense food cultivation instead of green lawns new comradrie in the center of asia my path unfolding
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
from black coal slurry workers press small round coalcakes affordable heat here's how it unfolds, see...photo by Pepi grandchild bursts into courtyard with yellow windbreaker
in her grey clothing grandma takes grandson to school in blue windbreaker
Jin Suo
down cobblestone street inscription in arabic high on door lintel hoping the offering will purify stomach cramps in the near future
Jin Suo
‘good for male virility problems’
Jin Suo
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 57 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 15, 2003
pg.2
Dali Library courtyard cypress bough in secluded patio fishing nets rolled up drying the cypress for later use as incense old man smokes his pipe
sleepy drone of boat giving this group of tourists a chance to conk out feeling good on boat but terrible on the shore mystery illness
watching cnn is like having a bad dream in rural china goddess of mercy next to the arhat reaching for forgotten scroll
writing a haiku now just a gut reaction to life around me
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 57 Dali, Yunan Province, China, April 15, 2003
San Ta, Dali
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
pg.3
San Ta, Dali
MaoMao
Downtown Dali
mao in Bai village, Xizhou
Jin Suo (Golden Fishnet) village
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 58 Lijiang, Yunan Province, China, April 16-17, 2003
pg.1
Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 8 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China This issue covers Lijiang, China another slow truck covered by canvas patches belches diesel smoke flat-headed driver honks before passing blue truck we talk of culture our group protesting about dirty tablecloths and undercooked eggs to get to the loo you must walk through the showroom past pricey objects
Wufeng Lou, Lijiang
drinking bitter tea while lawnmower drones and stomach churns
Maomao, tea tasting, Lijiang
local naxi girl washes the tea leaves three times before serving us unable to talk to the most beautiful girl i've seen in china loading heavy stones in flimsy wicker backbacks naxi ladies stare
old town Lijiang sweeping wide to pass, driver narrowly misses three pigs in a truck the only billboards hand-painted signs on houses for phone companies deconstructing homes with only a sledgehammer, they recycle bricks
old/new town Lijiang
as many signs apprioximating english as sacred temples salesroom alert: taken to drink mountain tea i know what is next a sweet aftertaste on the heels of bitter tea oolong and rosehips
deyue pavillion, Lijiang
grandmother and grandson in Baisha village, Lijiang
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 58 Lijiang, Yunan Province, China, April 16-17, 2003
pg.2
window scrreen, Dragon Spring village
bone oracle, Dongba Cultural Research Institute tribal naxi dance staccato sounds, fluttery high-pitched orchestra
transforming herself our naxi guide reappears in her western clothes
old man paints heiroglyphics the letter of tears
canal etiquitte: mornings for drinking cleaning in the afternoon
midrange, drones, cymbals, kazoo sounds, a headdress like the pope, fluttery flutes, plucky
camellia blooms for over five hundred years! ten thousand flowers
high pitched-orchestra of cymbals, drones and violins and peacock headdress
on baisha murals anti-buddhist inscriptions legacy of mao
unwinding long scroll headman twirls wooden sceptre orchestra sings on
diamond eyes removed ox, devils, snake, spirits mural under fire Anna, our Naxi/Han guide dying expression seventy-year old men keep the music alive
Naxi Orchestra, Lijiang
Naxi Orchestra, Lijiang
Naxi scroll, Dongba Cultural Research Institute
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 58 Lijiang, Yunan Province, China, April 16-17, 2003
Naxi Orchestra, Lijiang
Keith Andersen and Barbara Lenssen, Lijiang
pg.3
Naxi Orchestra, Lijiang
charming, obnoxious shop owners from within incessant 'hallo' washing pink pork guts in community canal surprised to hear phone
square-headed baby carried by squat grandmother gives me asian eye
old timers creeping down village street, stopping now and then to spit dog in metal cave snarls as five chinese tourists poke a stick at him
Thousand year Camelia,Yufeng Si Monastery, Lijiang planted in 1465
cipro cottonmouth after popping two large pills wile stomach rumbles
Barbara Lenssen's haiku airplane over moonrise we wait on deserted streets full moon, glowing globe
lotus lanterns float like starlight down the canal under stone bridges
changing china, old small, grey, black; young tall, cellphone bright colors, tight jeans
Baishsa village, Lijiang dancing for tourists positioned strategically to capture our cash small kitten content on bag of canola seeds stone walkway polished and wrinkled like dragon skin
cat on canola seeds, Baishsa village, Lijiang
in ancient village cherry and wisteria over dragon spring
old neighborhoods gone prople move to high risers relocation good? naxi loves dali lovers meet only to die religion means death wisteria blooms chusters drooping lavendar temples with frescoes ancient frescoes gleam buddha with diamond eyes gouged ancient frescoes gleam roots entwined lovers camelia blooms defy death couples take pictures
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 58 Lijiang, Yunan Province, China, April 16-17, 2003
Dragon Spring village
(to Patrick Lynn) Well, yes you are a colorful character, and that's not all about the dream. We were in corridors of rooms and there were gigantic chess sets that would rotate like hidden doors with things behind them, and there were a bunch of people chasing you like monks so it really shouldn't have been your fault, but still they accused you. hope you had a good beer, and please if there is a chance for people to say anything at Steve's wedding, say i send greetings from China. thanks for checking on the Marlette, I really appreciate it. love, J
(from Patrick) Travelling in exotic countries would not be nearly as adventurous without the runs, so good thing you got that out of the way and hopefully the antibiotics will kick in and you can concentrate on shopping for a bride. Geez oh man, those drugs must have made you delirious -- that dream of yours was reminiscent of one of mine. Tell them it wasn't my fault i dumped their priceless artifact into the canal, i was run off the road by a crazy monk. And tell them, no, I am not a colorful character. Meanwhile tonight Charlton is joining Steve and others of us so that we can buy him his last beer as a free man. We'll hoist one for you, too. Marlette is doing just fine. Packit
pg.4
Wufeng Lou, Lijiang
From Patrick Lynn I love "unleashes great spit". Tammy and I watched "Eat, Drink, Man, Woman" which is set in TaiPei which is in your general part of the world. Lot of people over there, huh? bits of dust floating in gold morning light slanting above the bedspread. Your rentals are coming to town tomorrow, and Marley and company are coming down the mountain at some point, I'll catch him up on Uncle Jonathan's shenanigans. See does he like "unleashes great spit". From the looks of the sack of used diapers that was on the porch after his Boulder time last weekend, I'd say that he knows all about "unleashes great shit". Packit
Jonathan, Lijiang
(From Patty Machen) Howdy from the mountains, where on Monday it was 73 degrees, yesterday it was about 33, and today the wind is howling! Ack! Freaking szchitzophrenic weather patterns! Anyway, How are you?? I got your message that you called, and I'm so sorry I missed it. We are in Estes more now, with the baby, especially during the week. Are you over your cold? It's been great getting your e-mails, and the haiku is definitely fulfilling its' literary purpose well - they are giving me what feels like an authentic glimpse into the moments and the world you are seeing. I'm glad the group of people feels tight. it seems like there's no better way to create bonds than to experience intense things with people. But we miss you! But we're glad you're there! Cali will be excited about that silk dress! My sweet little man just woke up (hence I am typing this the one-finger-pecking way ). He's a good nurser, a good sleeper (woop woop!). and definitely a good pooper! yep, love those poops... Anyway, we send you lots of love and good thoughts! Love, yer Sis Hi Sis,thanks for the note. Glad to hear things are poopy and nursey. I am almost over my cold, and like Dave says, 'phlegm is your friend'. unfortunately I have had the runs for a couple of days, pretty badly, so I'm now taking the antibiotics I brought. I am in Lijiang right now, a mountain town with views of 16,000 foot 'snowjade mountain'. It's definitely the prettiest natural place we've visited- and there's less than a million people here! hooray! I will send a longer haiku later, just wanted to touch base. lots of love yer bro
Bodhi - Yeah, the Sars is worrysome, but I think I've avoided that so far. The diharrea has been pretty bad so I started a course of antibiotics, I just don't want to be in these areas having to find a loo where there aren't any...am in Lijiang right now at the base of 5596 meter Jade Snow Dragon mountain. (18,480 feet). Beautiful city, the Naxi minority have close ties with Tibet. Tomorrow we are getting even closer to Tibet. Thanks for the suggestions. love, j
Yufeng Si Monastery, Lijiang
roof ornament, Dongba Cultural Research Institute
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 59 Shigu, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian, Yunan Province, China, April 18-19, 2003 pg.1 Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 9 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China. This issue covers Shigu, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian, China
flat-headed driver honks before passing blue truck we talk of culture sweating profusely while the driver navigates rural interstate
Shigu, stone drum village
our driver on cell roaring above the yangtze precarious cliff
strategic crossing for mao, genghis and zu ge ling on way to tibet
somehow they manage to fix the road while letting the tour bus pass
there is a saying the cantonese eat all legs except table legs Sonam, our tour guide in Zhongdian traffic obstructed by spontaneous street market spilling into street digging in her ear lady holds green umbrella at the leaping gorge
open pit latrine at random chinese truck stop above the yangtze road construction crew doing everything by hand in orange baseball caps
Shigu with the statue commemorating the Red Army 's crossing of the Yangtze in the long march of April, 1936 coming face to face with the community loo in southwest china backbreaking work seventy-five cents an hour most wearing suit-tops houses of mud bricks and rough timber construction plus sattelite dish
Shigu, stone drum village
Shigu, stone drum village
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 59 Shigu, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian Yunan Province, China, April 18-19, 2003 pg.2
market near Tiger Leaping Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge while we eat breakfast black mother sow and piglets forage for garbage tibetan shelters leaking charcoal under eaves from suppertime fire plowing fields with yaks slow paced, plodding and planting potatoes follow cell phone transmitter towers over white stupa give buddha a call Tibetan house near Zhongdian Shutu Lake Stupa
near Zhongdian Tiger Leaping Gorge
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 59 Shigu, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian Yunan Province, China, April 18-19, 2003 pg.3
Shutu lake
Rhododendron tree, Shutu Lake
rhodendron tree with moss hanging like tinsel on north face of shore
the evolution of the traditional house is pursued by all mixing wool with clay for a fine, slow-drying mud in sculpture workshop raising my eyebrows at a sign that invokes me to cherish the lawn resting with orange moss early spring at a chinese lake yak meat in belly Barbara Lenssen's Zhondian haiku mighty yangtze calm reflections of tall mountains first bend of river
twenty timbers each mud walls pounded wet and thick house in shangri-la
teeth chattering road construction provides massage weary passengers tiger leaping gorge steep steps bring rapids, close, spray kayaks not survive
dyring racks near Zhongdian
two cows in a pit tearing apart a cardboard box one dead cow nearby
satellite dishes inside houses have no plumbing they prefer t.v. prayer flags fluttering blue sky, white clouds, red fire green water, yellow earth roadwork jams traffic precipitous, treacherous gail refuses to look pinetrees on hillsides terraces covered with graves cement covers dead traditional Tibetan house detail
two buckets, a pole watering gardens by hand green rice in paddies
Budda sculpture in progress, village near Zhongdian
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 59 Shigu, Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian Yunan Province, China, April 18-19, 2003 pg.4 training the body not to be led by the mind tibetan teaching pig, goat and snake three poisions in the wheel of time ignorance, desire, jealousy in the wheel of time do not be a hungry ghost with a tiny throat
Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
seven bowls under scrolls can't remember details of the linneage just method, wisdom
Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
at the museum docents follow intently while pictures peel from the wall unable to speak of tibetan history next to chinese guide Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
late afternoon breeze prayer flags ripple in the wind old mud walls crumble designs of butter made for devotional shrine monk repeats mantras
starting out on the Path of Life, Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
Jietang Songlin Monastery, Zhongdian
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 60, Kunming, Guilin and Yangshsao, Guangzi, China, April 20-22, 2003 pg.1 Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This is part 10 in an eleven-part series covering a trip to China This issue covers Kunming, Guilin and Yangshao, China
Dragon Gate Grotto, Kunming
General Fubo, Guilin
Lao Tsu, Dragon Gate Grotto, Kunming everybody's smoke is everyone's problem sucking in blue air polluted green lake above hand-chiseled walkway that took years to carve stone buddhas look out at butterflies in up draft seeking cliff flowers
coral at Kunming street market
so fastidious about cleaning the streets near polluted lake sitting motionless while guilin early risers move in unison
vacant mao peace park next to vibrant market turtles in tubs commemorating the peaceful revolution bird market nearby
Kunming street market chinese reville t'ai chi by the li river old couple waltzing realizing the rap by our insightful tour guide is largely scripted uniformity of all these somber faces until the party Fubo Hill, Guilin
Dragon Gate Grotto, Kunming
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 60, Kunming, Guilin and Yangshsao, Guangzi, China, April 20-22, 2003 pg2
Guuilin countryside
Guilin
bus driver looks cross as i tramp mud down the aisles from soggy rice field
Roof ornament, Dragon Gate Grotto, Kunming
water buffallo content in green field of rice farmer sleeps nearby
Li River, Yangshou
military men getting ready to climb karst while we tour around tour boats leave en masse, honking just like the highway on broad li river longing for july rice shoots planted in the spring just sit in water eighteen tour barges jockeying for position like tourists on roof
Li River, Yangshou
woman climbs down stairs wearing t-shirt that proclaims she climbed the great wall british guy stands next to what looks like his chinese wife red head and black head tour boats, local boats under jagged limestone peaks phoenix tail bamboo checkered reflection punctuated by small shoots transplanted by hand
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 60, Kunming, Guilin and Yangshsao, Guangzi, China, April 20-22, 2003 pg 3
Yangshao
Yangshao
describing the scene "it's so much of what it is" we sigh peacefully Guilin art museum
pocket of nature people slapping knees, shouting morning in guilin thousand buddha cave the tang dynasty statues look happy and fat fifteen thousand years to develop stalagtites which we must now name
Yangshao
limestone in the mist surrounded by the five treasures and six cormorants
excitement to sketch results in slipping on stairs nearly breaking hand water buffalo content in green field of rice farmer sleeps nearby taking a short break farmer naps on partition between two paddies
drip of water, birds drowned out in the reed flute cave by stalagtourists from floor to ceiling work that no slave nor master could ever conceive another meal around the wheel our last group feeding
our guide, gao xue yi (tall snow perseverence) the road to pudong white knuckles on door handle road kill long extinct
Guilin
Yangshou
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 60, Kunming, Guilin and Yangshsao, Guangzi, China, April 20-22, 2003 pg 4
Elephant Hill, Guilin Travel in Times of Sars
duan guan-zhi painting, Guilin art museum duan guan-zhi painting bamboo with ink and brush to show how it's done
river barge, Guilin
Guilin art museum
Chinese web cafes: you might find one that rents at two yuan an hour or it could be one yuan a minute the thirty or forty machines spread out in a featureless room in glaring light, music not only from a boom box but the predominance of action games - music to raise your adrenalin by - and the cigarette smoke swirling around the no smoking signs, all provide an overstimulating atmosphere - hard to compose a letter under these circumstances. A lack of women creates a feeling of enhanced testosterone, the context and mood is subjujated by intent only- intent of overstimulation. China: a vast land of a billion souls whose roots, tied to the land, go deep, to the earliest recorded histories. The Han majority seeks integration of all minorities into their overall ideological structure. to grow up in China is to follow one path for this lifetime, even if one is able to perhaps live overseas or even change nationalities. One perspective: being chinese is unique, unflinchingly rigorous, genetically uniform, complex, otherthan-western, seeking modernization and integration into the global economy, while at the same time hoping to keep the stable agricultural base it has for so long. How can they do this? How can all the people who don't have cars, get one? The traffic jams in Shanghai, the crazed willingness of bike riders and pedestrians to slowly dwaddle into traffice without even a backward glance - the incredible honking well, they can probably do it. They will enlarge the roads by hand, tear down the crumbling villages, give everyone a new apartment building.
duan guan-zhi’s painting
Pepi, Guilin art museum
Guilin art museum
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 61, Signs and unique phrases, China, April, 2003 pg.1 Haiku Times celebrates the haiku experience. This issue highlights interesting signs.
Haiku Times Volume 3, issue 61, Signs and unique phrases, China, April, 2003 pg.2