SLOW & STEADY

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Twelve-hour Indian spiced lamb shoulder

Embrace life in the slow lane and linger in the kitchen as you savour these warming mid-winter recipes

Rib roast with potato gratin

Baharat lamb shoulder with onions and moghrabieh

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

6 garlic cloves, 2 sliced, remaining left whole 2 tsp salt, plus extra for seasoning ½ cup fresh oregano loosely packed 150ml olive oil 1 large (2kg) lamb shoulder without shank, cut through the bone into 6 equal pieces (see Tips), trimmed of excess fat 1 Tbsp Turkish chilli flakes (see Tips) 2.1 litres chicken stock 12 spring onions, trimmed 1 small onion, diced 1 Tbsp each ground cumin and ground coriander seeds 1 long red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 fresh bay leaf 600g moghrabieh (pearl couscous) 200g canned chickpeas 12 cherry tomatoes, roasted and peeled Lemon juice, to season Coriander leaves, to serve (optional)

BAHARAT SPICE MIX

1¼ tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp finely ground black peppercorns ¾ tsp cumin seeds, finely ground ½ tsp each ground coriander seeds, ground cinnamon and ground cloves ¼ tsp each ground cardamom and ground star anise Pinch of grated nutmeg

1 For the baharat, mix all the spices together. Makes about 1½ Tbsp. Store in an airtight container for up to six months. 2 Pound whole garlic cloves and salt to a fine paste with a mortar and pestle. Add oregano, 50ml olive oil and 2 tsp baharat, then pound to a paste. Massage paste into lamb. 3 Preheat oven to 150°C. Heat 50ml olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry lamb, turning, until golden (4-6 minutes). Add chilli flakes and 1.5 litres stock, bring to a simmer, then transfer to a baking dish that fits lamb snugly. Cover with baking paper and foil, then roast, basting every hour, until lamb is tender (3¼-4 hours). Uncover, increase heat to 180°C, add spring onions and roast until lamb is golden and onions are tender (20-30 minutes). Transfer lamb to a bowl, remove excess fat from cooking liquid (place paper towels on the surface, then remove and discard). Return lamb to liquid and keep warm. 4 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a large casserole over medium heat, add diced onion and sliced garlic, and sauté until softened (4-5 minutes). Add cumin and coriander seeds and stir until fragrant (1-2 minutes). Add chilli, bay leaf, moghrabieh and remaining stock to just cover and bring to the boil. Season to taste, cover, reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until tender (25-30 minutes). Add chickpeas and tomatoes, and simmer until stock is absorbed (5-7 minutes). Season with salt and lemon. 5 Pull lamb from the bone and stir through the mograbieh. Top with coriander leaves and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil to serve.

Rib roast with potato gratin

SERVES 6

A creamy potato gratin is the perfect side for a classic rib roast. Anchovies give the beef an extra hit of flavour and saltiness.

INGREDIENTS

2 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp chopped rosemary 2 tsp Dijon mustard, plus extra to serve 3 anchovy fillets, crushed with a mortar and pestle 1 rack of beef (also known as a standing rib roast), with at least 5 ribs (4.3kg) 3 onions, thickly sliced

POTATO GRATIN

500ml cream 4 garlic cloves, crushed 5 Desiree potatoes (about 2kg) Finely ground black peppercorns, to season Fresh nutmeg, to grate 1 Combine oil, rosemary, mustard and anchovies in a non-reactive dish. Add beef, turn to coat, cover and marinate at room temperature (1 hour). 2 For potato gratin, preheat oven to 190°C. Whisk cream and garlic in a bowl to combine. Peel and thinly slice potatoes on a mandoline into the cream, tossing to coat as you go to prevent discolouration. Season to taste and arrange in even layers in a buttered 30cm x 30cm oven dish. Season with freshly ground black pepper and a grating of nutmeg, cover with baking paper then foil and cook on lowest rung of oven until a knife pierces potato easily (45 minutes to 1 hour). Uncover and cook until golden (30 minutes). Keep warm. 3 Meanwhile, place beef on top of onions in a roasting dish and roast on top shelf until medium-rare (1½ hours). Set beef aside, loosely covered with foil to rest (30 minutes), then slice and serve with gratin and mustard.

Braised short-rib tacos

Twelve-hour Indian spiced lamb shoulder

SERVES 6–8

INGREDIENTS

150g Greek-style yoghurt 2 Tbsp finely grated ginger 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 Tbsp garam masala 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground chilli Juice of 1 lime 1 lamb shoulder, bone in (about 1.7kg) 80g ghee 4 onions, thinly sliced Fresh coriander sprigs, mint leaves, thinly sliced long green chilli and lime wedges, to serve

SAFFRON PILAF

50ml vegetable oil or ghee 1 onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300g brown basmati rice 500ml hot chicken stock (2 cups) ½ tsp saffron threads, soaked in 50ml warm water

MINT YOGHURT

250g thick plain yoghurt 1 cup firmly packed mint 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped Juice of 1 lime 1 Combine yoghurt, ginger, garlic, spices and lime juice in a bowl and season to taste. Slash lamb at intervals, rub all over with yoghurt mixture and into the incisions, then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight to marinate. 2 Unwrap lamb, place in a roasting pan and bring to room temperature (1-1½ hours). Preheat oven to 120°C. Meanwhile, heat ghee in a frying pan over medium-high heat, add onion and fry, stirring occasionally, until crisp and golden brown (8-10 minutes). Season to taste, cool briefly, then scatter onion over lamb. Add 500ml water to roasting pan, cover with foil and roast until meat is fall-apart tender (11-12 hours). Pour pan juices into a jug; skim off excess fat. 3 For saffron pilaf, heat ghee in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion and garlic and sauté until tender and translucent (5-6 minutes). Stir in rice to coat, then add stock, saffron and its soaking liquid and 250ml hot water. Season to taste, bring to the boil, cover with a tight-fitting lid, then reduce heat to low and cook without uncovering for 15 minutes. Remove from heat, stand without uncovering for 5 minutes, then uncover and fluff up with a fork. 4 For mint yoghurt, blitz ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste. 5 Pile pilaf onto a platter, top with lamb, then scatter with coriander, mint and green chilli. Serve with pan juices, mint yoghurt and lime wedges.

Braised short-rib tacos

SERVES 6

Spend the afternoon simmering a big pot of ribs, perfect wrapped in tacos or served with rice and a side of steamed greens.

INGREDIENTS

50ml olive oil 1.8kg beef short ribs, cut in half through the bone (see note) 1 Tbsp cumin seeds, crushed 175g chipotle chillies in adobo, coarsely chopped 1 Tbsp red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 Tbsp oregano leaves, to serve White and blue corn tortillas, feta, chopped onion, diced tomato and coriander

CORIANDER & LIME SAUCE

60ml (¼ cup) olive oil 1 bunch coriander 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 green jalapeno chilli, coarsely chopped Juice of 6 limes

1 Heat oil in a casserole over medium-high heat and brown ribs (5-7 minutes). Add cumin and stir until toasted (1 minute), then add chillies, vinegar, garlic, oregano and 100ml water. Bring to the boil, season, cover and braise over low heat until beef is falling off the bone (3 hours). Uncover and cook until beef starts to caramelise (30 minutes). Keep warm, then pull the meat from the bones. 2 For coriander and lime sauce, process all ingredients in a blender until smooth. 3 Heat a frying pan over high heat, add tortillas one at a time and cook, turning once, until brown (2-4 minutes). 4 Serve beef with tortillas and top with cheese, onion, tomato, coriander and sauce. NOTE Ask your butcher to cut the ribs to size.

Coq au vin

SERVES 4-6

Start this recipe a day ahead to prepare the chicken and stock.

1 Portion chicken into 8 pieces, leaving the first joint of the wing attached to about a third of each breast (your butcher can do this for you). Reserve carcass and wing tips for stock. Place chicken skin-side up on a wire rack and refrigerate to dry (6 hours or overnight). 2 Remove chicken from fridge and bring to room temperature before cooking (20 minutes). Preheat oven to 140°C. Heat 20g clarified butter (see Notes) in a casserole over medium heat, add lardons and cook until lightly brown (5 minutes). Transfer to a plate. 3 Heat remaining clarified butter in casserole over medium heat. Season chicken and brown in batches (5 minutes each side; don’t crowd the pan). Transfer to plate with lardons, then strain fat through a sieve and return to casserole. 4 Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic and tomato to casserole, and sauté over medium heat until onion is translucent (6-8 minutes). Sprinkle flour over vegetables and stir continuously, scraping base of pan until roux starts to colour (2-4 minutes). Add a splash of wine to deglaze pan, scraping the base and stirring to form a smooth, thick sauce. Return chicken and lardons to casserole, add Cognac and cook for 1 minute. Add wine and turn chicken until coated in sauce (3-4 minutes). 5 Add reduced stock and bouquet garni, and return to the boil. Season, then cover with a round of baking paper, reduce heat to low, cover with a lid and braise in oven until chicken is cooked through (25-30 minutes). 6 Meanwhile, place onions in a saucepan and cover with cold salted water, bring to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until starting to become tender (8-10 minutes). Drain. Heat half the butter and the sugar in a large frying pan over medium heat, add onions and fry, stirring occasionally, until golden (10-15 minutes). Transfer to a plate. 7 Wipe out frying pan, heat remaining butter and olive oil over medium heat, add mushrooms and fry, stirring occasionally, until golden brown (3-5 minutes). Add 100ml cold water and bring to the boil, cover with a lid and cook until mushrooms are tender (4-5 minutes). Drain and transfer to plate with onions. Transfer chicken and lardons to a warm plate and loosely cover with foil. Strain cooking liquor into a large saucepan and reduce over medium heat until thickened (2-4 minutes). Remove excess fat from the surface, then return to pan and add chicken, lardons, onions and mushrooms, bring to the boil, and season to taste. 8 Scatter coq au vin with parsley and serve with potato and celeriac puree or pasta. NOTES To clarify butter, melt diced unsalted butter in a saucepan over low heat until fat and milk solids separate. Remove from heat, strain through a sieve lined with muslin into a bowl. For bouquet garni, tie 5 thyme sprigs, 2 bay leaves and 6 parsley stalks in a piece of muslin with twine. TIP To make reduced chicken stock, fry the reserved carcass and wing tips with 300g extra chicken wings and 120g chicken giblets until browned (1-2 minutes). Add 1 coarsely chopped onion, 1 coarsely chopped carrot, and 2 celery stalks, cover with water and bring to the boil. Skim off scum and simmer for 3 hours. Strain through a fine sieve, cool and refrigerate. The next day, remove fat from surface and boil stock until reduced to about 20 percent of original volume (1 hour). Or reduce a good shop-bought chicken stock to 200ml.

INGREDIENTS

1 large chicken (1.8kg) 60 g clarified butter (see Notes) 150 g streaky bacon, cut into lardons and blanched (5 minutes from a cold-water start) 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, diced 2 celery stalks, diced 5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 large Roma tomato, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped 30g plain flour 750ml red Burgundy or pinot noir 50ml Cognac or brandy 200 ml reduced chicken stock (see Tip) 1 bouquet garni (see Notes) 500g pickling onions (about 12), peeled with roots intact 60g unsalted butter Large pinch of caster sugar 1 Tbsp olive oil 250 g button mushrooms ¼ cup curly-leaf parsley, finely chopped