The
Gourmand
A food and culture journal
THE GOURMAND
Issue 9
April 2017 Editor/Photographer/Writer: Ella Sedman
Contents
The Vegetable Revolution 4-5 Portion Control 8-15 Eating Healthy Has Never Looked So Unappetising 18-25 How D’ya Like Your Eggs in the morning 26-29 The Courgette crisis 32-33 Saucy Words 36-43 My Brother 44-52 Recipes 54-55 3
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THE VEGETABLE REVOLUTION
Illustration by Ella Sedman
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Words by Ella Sedman
The Vegetable Revolution
“You’re not leaving the table until you eat your purples.”
steady increase in demand across their 465 stores. But why is purple the new green? It has long been understood that the darker the green colouring of a vegetable, the higher the antioxidant and nutrient content. Well, this rule of thumb does not discriminate against the colour purple with new studies revealing that purple veg is a plentiful source of phytonutrients. It is also documented that consuming a diet rich in purple vegetables can reduce the risk of developing high blood pressure and low cholesterol. The lucrative nature of this trend is also good news for Western vegetable suppliers. It’s difficult to yet know whether supermarkets will be able to keep up with the new, increased demand of alternative veggies. This is especially poignant within recent months where UK supermarkets suffered a dramatic shortage of vegetables due to poor weather conditions. The popularity of the purple vegetable is something we are apparently set to witness throughout the coming year. Overtaking our beloved (or not-so-beloved-forsome) greens is yes unlikely, but not impossible. However, purple-pigmented vegetables undeniably add a sense of vibrancy to our traditionally earth-toned plates. So even if just embraced for the Instagram likes, purple vegetables are set to be the new fashionable food.
Bringing back memories of defiantly avoiding the vegetable-ridden side of your dinner plate, the term, “eat your greens,” was often met with a high altitude of a child’s imagination. Whether masking the assortment of peas with a lump of mash or dissecting and dispersing the mane of a broccoli across your plate, the daily struggle of inventing new ways to avoid eating your greens is one that resonates with many of us. Now in the depths of adulthood, we can look back with nostalgic eyes and laugh at the daily chore we now willingly perform, five times a day... or so we tell the doctor Alongside reaching adult life and learning how to fend for yourself away from our parent’s cooking, there has been a general surge in vegetable consumption within recent years. But the new food trend that is tipped to be one of the favourites within 2017 is the purple vegetable diet. Joining the triumphant rise of the beetroot, aubergine and cabbage, are new additions such as purple cauliflower, purple asparagus, purple carrots, purple corn and even purple sweet potatoes. American company Whole Foods firstly acknowledged this newly developed fetish for all things purple after reporting a consistent and
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Illustration by Ella Sedman
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Words by Ella Sedman
BUNDOBUST
THE INDIAN STEET FOOD YOU HAVE TO TRY After converting the Yorkshire meat lovers of Leeds to the hidden beauty that is vegetarian Indian street food, Bundobust is going two-for-two with another carnivore-ridden, Northern city, the city of Manchester. Vegetarian Indian street food is a phrase that is often met with common feelings of scepticism, reluctance and disbelief. You won’t see a Chicken Korma, Lamb Rogan Josh or even a Beef Jalfrezi on the menu at Bundobust, but instead new dishes like Vada Pav, Bhel Puri and Punjabi Kadhi. A nation who believes they are curry connoisseurs, Bundobust has rewritten the rules of what constitutes a ‘good British curry.’ After successfully establishing themselves on the Leeds food scene in 2014, Bundobust has expanded to Manchester’s alternative Northern Quarter where they’re eclectic choice of craft ales and eccentric artwork fit in perfectly. Manchester’s Piccadilly Gardens branch can be found through a small doorway and down a
steep stairwell, where you’re met with bright orange benches and colourful food. Impressive graphics imprint everything from the exposed-brick walls to the personalised schooner glasses; Bundobust’s brand is strong, bold and impossible to ignore. But most important is the food. Presented in paper bowls and eaten with plastic cutlery, again liberated is the formality of a traditional curry house and a new nostalgic-provoking playfulness, left in its place. If you are yet to taste the wonder that is Indian street food, expect nothing you have ever tasted before. ‘Expect the unexpected,’ is a term that might be appropriate, but then again seems almost as cheesy as Bundo’s Paneer and Mushroom Tikka dish. So for strong beers, spicy bowls, and Okra Fries, Bundobust is one of the best taste experiences on the market. Reshaping the future landscape of British curries, if you’re not already a convert, you’re likely to soon be one. 61 Piccadilly, Manchester, M1 2AQ
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The White bird
Food & Drink London.Manchester.Leeds
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Portion Control Photography: Ella Sedman
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PORTION CONTROL
Addressing counting calorie culture through photography
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IMAGE Bowls
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PORTION CONTROL
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PORTION CONTROL
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PORTION CONTROL
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Vietnam/
Foodie Traveller Holidays Foodietraveller.co.uk/destinations
Taste Culture/
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Eating Healthy Has Never Looked So Unappetising Words: Ella Sedman Photography: Ella Sedman
Dirty foods are not causing our eating problems; it’s the Clean foods that should be the real guilty pleasure.
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EATING HEALTHY HAS NEVER LOOKED SO UNAPPETISING
donut IMAGE
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Now replenished with antioxidant-rich, fruit juices and revitalised through vitamin-rich super foods; we began to ‘glean’. However under this seemingly flawless, radiating glow was an underlining, slowing amplifying eating disorder that this new trend was only feeding, in hearty portion sizes. Orthorexia is a term that you may have read in the health-dedicated pages of a newspaper, most likely in the standardised weekly ‘parent scare’ segment. The words ‘teenagers’ and ‘danger’ often indicate if you’re about to read the new threat everyone needs to panic over. But sadly orthorexia is all too prevalent today, with many living with it without even knowing of its existence. Orthorexia is a term that just by its name provokes a sense of uneasy panic. Maybe because of its phonetic similarity to anorexia, nonetheless, this disorder was repeatedly publicised by health care services as a growing epidemic over the past decade. Understanding the tell-tail signs that could indicate someone with the disorder remains the most important piece of information, which is not so easily transferable to orthorexia. There is an absence of identifiable, diagnosable traits within Orthorexia suffers as it is often masked under the current lifestyle trend of popular choice, clean eating.
“A typical scenario in the height of my illness would start with a friend inviting me to their birthday get-together. Great, I’d initially think, but then they reveal that they’re planning on going for a meal... My heart would drop, then I’d calmly and subtly ask where (pretending to be excited.) After getting the name of the restaurant, I’d quickly search for their website and check their online menu. No salads, no low-fat options, there’s nothing that meets my dietary requirements. The stress sets in, to not eat would cause questions, worry, so instead I’d make an excuse and skip the meal altogether,” Lola. Cleaning eating is a trend that has saturated our Instagram news feeds and Facebook pages within recent years. Advocating this were the digitally plat formed women we liked, followed and over time, came to aspire to. Hoping for a perfect body, mind and newfound confidence to complete ones ‘whole package,’ society took to this new phenomenon and the entire wellness movement in general with impressive enthusiasm and exhilarating motivation. Young girls in particular began spiralizing courgetti, buying organic-only-produce and cutting out anything processed (meaning that end-of-the-night Maccy D’s became just a sordid, drunken thing of the past).
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EATING HEALTHY HAS NEVER LOOKED SO UNAPPETISING
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Orthorexia in its most simplistic form refers to an unhealthy obsession with only consuming foods that one considers ‘clean’. Steven Bratman, MD, MPH, published this term nearly 20 years ago and since then, has witnessed a dramatic growth in diagnosed cases across the world with the most significant influx being witnessed within recent years. So what does ‘clean’ foods constitute exactly? Disorder sufferers generally regard anything processed or stereotypically unhealthy and ‘dirty’ and as a result expelled from their diets. For example, a meat feast pizza, a doughnut or a cheese board would probably live outside the diet’s guidelines. However, more 22
worryingly is the dismissal of entire, vital food groups and as a consequence, causing basic, essential vitamins to become lost. Recent years have witnessed an influx of malnutrition, especially amongst teenage girls, as a result of Orthorexia. As well and long terms effects in regards to mental health, it has also been reported that orthorexia sufferers are at risk of developing infertility, heart disease, osteoporosis and kidney failure. Although orthorexia has been prevalent for a number of years, what has made this disorder and its acknowledgement so critical now, is something again that is masked as something it is not, the wellness movement.
EATING HEALTHY HAS NEVER LOOKED SO UNAPPETISING EATING HEALTHY HAS NEVER LOOKED SO UNAPPETISING
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The battle of the bears
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“Eating in public and around my friends and family would cause me daily anxiety and stress that I’d often miss important social occasions just to avoid the situation altogether.”
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EATING HEALTHY HAS NEVER LOOKED SO UNAPPETISING
Social media within recent years has become less about reconnecting with old friends, but yet a platform for self-developing and branding. A great marketing tool and something wellness gurus’ quickly seized with their fashionable table wear, luscious hair and white-than-white-smiles. Generously disclosing their personal formulas for prosperity, they showed us how we too could be like them: beautiful, successful and happy. Just by changing what we eat, which fundamentally believed swapping out all the processed and unnatural food for high-vitamin, natural, healthy substitutes. From your quinoa and your goji berries, we have as a nation expanded both our food and nutrition-based catalogues of knowledge, with some maybe even been able to regurgitate how many calories are in an avocado (it’s 227, if you’re interested). Many popular advocates of clean eating such as Deliciously Ella, the Hemsley sisters and Madeline Shaw, manage to exercise this eating regime to all appearances, correctly and safely. But sadly this health trend that was initially promoted with good intentions, can lead to deprival eating habits and in some cases the development of an eating disorder. This transition is completely dependent on an emotional and obsessive dedication to ‘healthy’ foods. A shift like this can lead ones mental wellbeing and social life to become broken and distressed. The evolution from a healthy lifestyle to an unhealthy one is completely dependent on an emotional and obsessive dedication to ‘healthy’ foods. A shift like this can lead an Orthorexia sufferer’s mental wellbeing and social life to become broken and distressed. Speaking to The Gourmand, Bratman says, “Being healthy is a good thing, and being in tune with the body is great, but food is too small for all the emotion being spent on it.” Furthermore, he discloses how, “clean eating can be a “gateway drug” to orthorexia.” Bratman expands, “These days orthorexia seems to almost always occur in conjunction with traditional eating disorders. The “healthy” aspect of it may hide the unhealthiness of the eating disorder.” With this term still not having obtained the serious status it deserves, it often goes unnoticed and untreated. As well as clean eating, restrictive diets in general could be to blame for the rising numbers of eating disorders. Going back 50 years, any alterative diet away from the mainstream was initially met with some form of scepticism. Even now, going away to rural parts of the world with my pescatarian parents is a struggle with my mother occasionally finding an unidentifiable form of meat halfway through a ‘meat free’ meal. But 50 years on, specialist diets have become common. From veganism to glutenfree, practising a strict diet has never been so easy
with more options readily available in a market that’s thriving. Leading supermarkets have seized this opportunity by dedicating defined areas of their shop floors just for free-from foods. Diverse diets have never been so inclusive and readily accommodated than witnessed today. But it is possible that the popularity of restrictive diets has led the way for quick fix, unhealthy and unsafe alternative to penetrate our eating habits and dictate our daily routines. But it’s not just our diets that are being affected by the great wellness movement of the 21st-century; it’s our activity levels too. Gym bunnies, celebrity endorsements and strict workout regimes are being increasingly normalised and seen as a substantial achievement. Orthorexia now possesses a new unique relationship with exercise. Studies show that people who suffer from orthorexia are more likely to impose a strict exercise regime, alongside their restrictive eating. Exercise now exists within the restraints of eating disorders, making it harder to identify as a problem. Speaking to Lola (whose name has been changed upon request), stated how for a long time, she did not realise she possessed an eating disorder. “I initially just wanted to get fit and possibly loose some weight. I began eating more healthily and exercising routinely, which led people to start complementing my appearance and commend my lifestyle.” Lola continues, “But then I began becoming more and more consumed with my new healthy lifestyle. Counting every calorie that was consumed and expelled by my body. It dominated my whole life. I would panic and cry over eating something that was outside of my accustomed diet in fear I would instantly put on weight or damage my body.” “Eating in public and around my friends and family would cause me daily anxiety and stress that I’d often miss important social occasions just to avoid the situation altogether.” Lola concludes, “Only through reading Online what orthorexia was could I really identify that I had a problem. Luckily, I got help and took steps to familiarise myself with a more normal, healthier lifestyle. I’m much happie now.” The consistent rise in eating disorders and the influence of the wellness movement is one that is increasingly noticeable amongst the general public. The powerful nature of social media has driven this health spout with new, dangerous results. Adopting a calorie controlled, food restricting diet can lead normal lifestyle routines to become both physically and psychologically damaging. Being healthy does not have to be an all-consuming, constantly enforced ideology yet a light guideline for living. Furthermore, an absence of balance and moderation can quickly make life restrictive and ultimately, become a little bit dull.
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How D’Ya Like Your Eggs In The Morning?
Edible might be a start. A photo story showcasing why reading a recipe might be wise. Especially when attempting Eggs cooked four ways
FRIED Photography: Ella Sedman
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EGGS
POACHED
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SCRAMBLED
BOILED
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EGGS
EGGS DONE FOUR WAYS
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Sushi Corner
www.sushicorner.co.uk/bookings 15 smith street/ Manchester
Drink Northern The craft ale uprising is the trend that is strong both in alcohol content and popularity. Their creativity in taste and packaging is proving a competitive market with new, independent breweries being established across the country. However, it appears some of the most worthy competitors quenching our thirst for ale are the Northern branches. The Gourmand has rounded up their favourite offerings from the what they consider the Northern breweries who successfully epitomise what the new age of beer really tastes like.
New World/ 6.2% Indian Pale Ale Northern Monk Brew Co High Wire/ 5.5% West Cost Pale Ale Magic Rock Brewing
Leeds Huddersfield Manchester DIPA v3/ 9% Double IPA Cloudwater Brew Co
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Flooding has kept them out of our baskets and out of our diets, but when will the
‘Great Courgette Shortage of 2016’ finally come to an end? 32
THE COURGETTE CRISIS
The Courgette Crisis Words by Ella Sedman Photography by Ella Sedman
of fresh produce each year, have had to resort to importing the produce they would normally ship out. With Morocco also suffering similar problems, it is however Great Britain that was the most affected. It is estimated that the UK imports 50% of consumed vegetables and 90% of fruit. Highly dependent on our neighbouring countries for their fresh produce, it invites the question of whether the UK should strive to be more self-sufficient with our food? Questioning this more than ever are the supermarkets our nation loves. Costing them an estimated £8 billion in four weeks, this shortage has been one of the priciest for supermarket giants. Tesco attempted to monitor the vegetable crisis by resorting to rationing three lettuces per visit, with many other industry leaders following suit. One of the most affected however remains the vegetableof-the-moment, the courgette. The spiralizer’s were reluctantly put away and the courgetti-based meals put on hold after supermarkets witnessed a sale drop of 58%. With the vegetable shortage set to prevail over the coming months, echoes of courgette crisis are to be expected. An empty supermarket shelf here and a tripled price tag there evidencing this. However, experts hope growing conditions will improve, making the governing growing sites habitual once again. You never know, the courgette crisis may even be over ready in time for a mid-year resolution...
For many of us, winter entails divulging in decadent desserts, guzzling gin and feasting on one-too-many hearty family meals. In the midst of a post-New-Year’s-Eve hangover and with a whole month of drab January looming, an optimistic New Year’s resolution and health and fitness progam is a popular plan of action. Alas, the curse of 2016 joined us into 2017 in the form of the courgette crisis. Poor weather conditions across Europe condemned the growth of some of Britain’s most beloved vegetables. This was bad news for our New-Year-newself-health-kicks, but even worst news for the leading supermarkets and their spoiled produce profits. Although first hitting governing growing fields in late November, the repercussions only materialised in the UK in mid-January. Worst affected being the South-Eastern Murcia region of Spain that supplies 80% of Europe’s fresh produce. The root of Europe’s growth problem was extremely poor weather conditions. Cold weather, poor light levels, and floodcausing rain not only affected our prized courgettes but also the cultivation of iceberg lettuce and broccoli crops. With Murcia reporting the heaviest rainfall in 30 years with the addition of experiencing a year’s worth in less than 24 hours, it is to no surprise our veggies could not keep afloat. But it wasn’t just Spain who took a blow from the extreme weather conditions. Italy, who also supplies Europe with a substantial proportion 33
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Eat It Up
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Saucy Words
A photo story that contemplates the political standards of today’s society and our increasingly ambivalent future. By taking back the humanitarian phrases that are becoming progressively rare within news reporting, they are being reinstated and given a platform in the form of household condiments.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ELLA SEDMAN 36
SAUCY WORDS
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SAUCY WORDS
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TH ES AU CES M EA E R C IS D A LA NN A S YO MA ITE P Y P C M H R RA GE A CHU C M U ET LLI D MO REF ICE K E D ST IFE HI TAR U C J L TY US I M L UA DOM Y Q E EE IT FR UN
th ew or ds
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SAUCY WORDS
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O SAUCY WORDS
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My Brother Photography by Ella Sedman
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Words by Ella Sedman
A photo story that documents a sister’s relationship with her brother over a dinner table. Started in 2011, photographer Ella Sedman reopens this body of work exclusively for The Gourmand with a series of new portraits from 2017.
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MY BROTHER
“Jack was always such a messy eater that I thought it would be a great way to capture what he is really like.”
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The original image series was captured over a fourmonth period between 2011-2012. Wanting to capture the candid moments between herself and her 13-yearold brother, Sedman decided to document their meals together. Meal times in their family home was the only point in the day where the brother and sister would be forced to sit and talk to each other.
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MY BROTHER
“It wasn’t easy photographing Jack. He was a moody 13-yearold. Food was sometimes thrown...”
“It was such a mundane activity for a photography project, but now I look back on these images with so much sentiment that I’m glad I chose it as a concept.” “I miss these moments together.” 47
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Sedman persisted in photographing her brother every day with her film camera, which was met with daily reluctance from Jack. This set of images capture these intimate moments of their brother/sister relationship during their prime, developmental years. Six years on, Jack’s diet still consists predominantly of cheese, crisps, and lots of ketchup.
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MY BROTHER
2017
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“Jack is now 19 and still living at our family home in Manchester. I thought it would be fitting to do the shoot around his favourite food, pizza...�
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“...obviously doused in an overflow of tomato ketchup.”
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In Partnership with The Gourmand
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A Collection of Recipes Based on the Features in Issue 09 Illustrations: Ella Sedman
Quick Ratatouille with Poached Eggs
How Do You Like your Eggs: How about having today’s eggs with an accompaniment of ratatouille...? (Ooh la la) Serves Four/ Prep 15mins/Cook 50mins 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 red pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 2 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 tbsp. chopped rosemary 1 aubergine, diced 2 courgette, diced 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tsp. Balsamic vinegar 4 large eggs handful basil leaves Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion, pepper and garlic, cook for 5 mins stirring frequently until the onion has softened. Add the aubergine and courgettes, then cook for 2 mins more. Add the tomatoes, then fill the can with water, swirl it
around and tip into the pan. Bring to the boil, cover, then simmer for 40 mins, uncovering after 20 mins, until reduced and pulpy. Stir the vinegar into the ratatouille, and then make 4 spaces for the eggs. Crack an egg into each hole and season with black pepper. Cover, then cook for 2-5 mins until set as softly or firmly as you like. Finally, scatter over the basil and serve with some crusty bread to mop up the juices.
Smoked Mackerel and Beetroot Bake The Vegetable Revolution: An oldie but a goodie, beetroot was the original purple veg we all feel in love with. Serves Four/ Prep 10mins/ Cook 35mins 500g Jersey Royal Potatoes (scrubbed and halved) 100g cooked beetroot (cut into quarters)
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175g smoked mackerel 12 ½g dill (chopped) 250ml double cream 150ml milk 1 tbsp. horseradish sauce Heat oven to 190 °C/170 °c fan/gas 5. Cooke potatoes in slightly salted, boiling water for 10 minutes until tender, drain well. Transfer potatoes to baking dish and add beetroot. Remove any skin and bones from mackerel and break flesh into chunky flakes. Add to baking dish and scatter over half of the dill. Mix together the cream, milk and horseradish and season. Pour over potato mix and bake for 25 minutes until bubbling. Serve with remaining scattered dill.
Mediterranean Vegetables with Lamb The Courgette Crisis: When you can grab’em, use
RECIPES
your courgettes in this lovely lamb one-pot.
Hence, it had to include his favourite food... cheese.
Serves 4/ Prep 15mins/ Cook 30mins 1 tbsp. olive oil 250g lean lamb fillet, trimmed of any fat and thinly sliced 2 large onions, cut into quarters and separated 2 large courgettes, cut into circular chunks ½ tsp. each of ground cumin, paprika and ground coriander 1 red, 1 orange and 1 green pepper, sliced 1 garlic clove, sliced 150ml vegetable stock 250g cherry tomatoes 1 handful of coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Serves 5/ Prep 50mins/ Cook 40mins For the tomato sauce: 1½ tbsp. olive oil 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 ½ tbsp. caster sugar 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes small bunch basil leaves For the topping: 1 250g tub mascarpone 1½ tbsp. milk 40g Parmesan, grated 1 125g balls mozzarella, sliced For the filling: 500g spinach 50g Parmesan, grated 375g ricotta pinch of grated nutmeg 200g dried cannelloni
Heat oil in a large, deep frying pan. Cook the lamb and onions over a high heat for 2-3 mins until both are browned. Add the courgettes and stir-fry for 3-4 mins until they begin to soften. Add the spices, toss well and then add peppers and garlic. Reduce heat and cook over a moderate heat for 4-5 mins until they start to soften. Pour in the stock and stir to coat. Add the tomatoes, season, and then cover with a lid and simmer for 15 mins, stirring occasionally. Stir through the coriander to serve.
Spinach & ricotta cannelloni My Brother: This recipe is a tribute to Jack and his unique style of eating.
First make the tomato sauce. Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the garlic for 1 min. Add the sugar, vinegar, tomatoes, season and simmer for 20 mins, stirring occasionally until thick. Add the basil and transfer sauce to a shallow, ovenproof dish and set aside. Make a sauce by beating the mascarpone with the milk until smooth, season, then set aside. Put the spinach in a large colander and pour over a kettle of boiling water to wilt it (you may need to do this in batches). When cool enough to handle squeeze out the excess water. Roughly chop the spinach and mix in a large bowl with 50g Parmesan and ricotta. Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Using a piping bag, squeeze filling into the cannelloni tubes. Lay the tubes, side by side, on top of
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the tomato sauce and spoon over the mascarpone sauce. Top with Parmesan and mozzarella. Bake for 30-35 mins until golden and bubbling. Remove from oven and let stand for 5 mins before serving.
Cajun Chicken & Cheese Burgers My Brother: Because Jack’s cheese taste is limited to cheddar with a side of crisps, here’s one he’d enjoy. Serves 2/ Prep 20mins/ Cook 15mins 2 skinless chicken breasts 1 tbsp. olive oil 2 bread rolls, split 2 slices of the cheese of your choice 2 small handfuls baby spinach leaves For the Cajun seasoning: 1 tbsp. ground cumin 1 tbsp. ground coriander 1 tbsp. paprika Mix seasoning ingredients together with black pepper and salt, then set aside. Heat grill to a high heat. On a board, flatten out the chicken slightly. Then drizzle half the oil over and add the seasoning until coated all over. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan, fry chicken for 5 mins on each side until firm. Cover the bottom of the buns with cheese and then grill until the cheese has melted. Assemble burgers with a handful of spinach, chicken and a sauce of your choice. Jack would always choose ketchup, but we recommend something a bit spicy.