[edibleseasonals]
Succulent Figs The World’s first cultivated fruit
PHOTO by Dina avila
BY ellen jackson
14 l edible portland FALL 2011
F
igs are taken for granted in Mediterranean countries, where they flourish and have a rich history; but their place in our nation’s culinary landscape is less certain. Most of us know them for three reasons: First, in the bible, fig leaves were fashioned into strategically placed aprons, leaving some to speculate that the forbidden fruit could just as reasonably have been a fig as an apple. Then there’s figgy pudding. In Christmas carols, we sing “We won’t go until we get some, so bring some out here,” even though we’re not entirely sure what we’re demanding. And finally, there are Fig Newton cookies, introduced in the late 19th century, when physicians believed most illnesses could be traced back to digestive problems and addressed with daily doses of biscuits and fruit. Despite the possibility that Fig Newtons were inspired by a delectable hand-rolled Egyptian confection made from preserved figs wrapped in a cake-like dough and an advertising slogan popular in the 1980s—“A cookie is just a cookie, but a Newton is fruit and cake”— the cookies make a better story than snack. Remains of the fruit found in the ruins of a prehistoric village in the West Bank, near Jericho, date to around 11,400 years ago, suggesting that figs are the earliest known cultivated fruit crop. Indigenous to western Asia, where they are held sacred, fig trees were planted throughout the Mediterranean, symbolizing fertility, abundance and sweetness. The Greeks regarded the fruit with such esteem that they created laws forbidding export of the best quality figs. Sycophant comes from the Greek word for one who informs against another for exporting or stealing the fruit of the sacred tree. California-bound settlers, seduced by the promise of gold, brought figs to this country. The fruit thrived in coastal California’s Mediterranean-like climate, characterized by hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. By 1867, there were more than 1,000 acres of fig trees in the Sacramento Valley and 35 acres in the San Joaquin Valley. Twenty-five years later, in 1892, figs made their commercial debut in the form
of Fig Newton cookies, which were the only form of the fruit Americans living outside of the California border knew until the 20th century. Today, California produces 100 percent of the nation’s dried figs and 98 percent of the fresh crop. A member of the mulberry family, the fig tree has muscular twisting branches that spread to create a canopy as wide as it is tall, anywhere between 15 and 30 feet. Although considered a fruit, the fig is actually a flower turned in on itself. The seeds—the true fruit—form a cluster of edible miniature drupelets in the center of the green fruit. The flowers of the common edible fig (Ficus carica) are all female and need no pollination. The Smyrna and San Pedro, however, must be cross-pollinated with the help of the Blastophaga wasp. The tiny wasp gains access to the flowers though an opening at the apex. These pollinated seeds provide the unmistakably nutty flavor of dried figs. While small by comparison, Oregon’s fig crop is made up of several dozen varieties in the Willamette Valley alone, each with its own distinctive flavor. Between the months of June and September, fig trees in countless Portland backyards are heavy with robust and prolific Brown Turkeys, creamy amber Kadotas and yellow-green Desert Kings, a popular Northwest variety that weathers late frosts. The fruit should be plump and very soft when ripe, with the small blossom end at the bottom slightly open. Look for smooth-skinned specimens without blemishes or oozing. The pleasantly chewy skin contrasts with its crunchy contents, full of fiber, potassium, calcium, iron and antioxidants. Figs will keep in the refrigerator for one week, but are best eaten at room temperature, with a nod to progenitors for their allure, prospectors for their arrival and pollinators for their abundance. ep
Ellen Jackson is a Portland-based writer and food stylist.
Quick & Easy FIGS
RECIPES
Braised
Grilled
Add figs at the end of the cooking time when braising rich, flavorful meats like pork, duck and chicken thighs. The sweetness of figs nicely complements slow-cooked meats made with dark, winey sauces.
Partially split figs, leaving the blossom end intact, and tuck a small chunk of blue cheese or a spoonful of goat cheese in the center. Press the halves together, wrap with a piece of prosciutto or bacon, and bake or grill briefly.
Caramelized
Roasted
Split figs and drizzle cut sides with honey. Melt a pat of butter in a heavy skillet and add the figs, cut side down, with a few sprigs of thyme. Leave undisturbed until caramelized. Remove figs and add a bit of water to the skillet to release caramel and create sauce. Spoon sauce over figs and serve with plain yogurt or whipped cream and more thyme.
Drizzle a dozen figs with 2 tablespoons of honey and roast in a 350-degree oven until they soften and blister slightly. Serve in a bowl with their juices, Greek yogurt or ice cream, and fresh raspberries. edible portland FALL 2011 l 15
[edibleseasonals]
Recipes FIG
Find more seasonal recipes at www.edibleportland.com
Wild Salmon Roasted in Fig Leaves Wrapping and cooking fish in fresh fig leaves imparts a delicious
delicate flavor and helps the fish maintain its tenderness.
8 portions (about 3 pounds) fresh fish, such as wild
salmon Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 large fresh fig leaves
Extra-virgin olive oil Fresh Herb Butter (recipe below)
1. Season the fish well with salt and pepper. Rinse the fig leaves in cold water and dry gently. Coat each portion of fish in olive oil. Wrap individually in a fig leaf; it may not be completely enclosed, but that’s fine. Fasten closed with a toothpick or kitchen string. 2. Roast the fish on a baking sheet in a 400-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness. Serve on warm plates. Open the fig leaf parcels, put a slice of herb butter on top, and serve immediately. Makes 8 servings
Fresh Herb Butter Versatile and addictive, this herb butter adds wonderful flavor to
everything from beer cornbread (page 25) to mashed potatoes.
8 Tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, thyme,
parsley, chives or fennel
Cream butter, mix in herbs and lemon juice, roll into a log and enclose in plastic wrap or wax paper. Seal completely and place in freezer to chill. Adapted from Darina Allen’s Forgotten Skills of Cooking, Kyle, 2010
16 l edible portland FALL 2011
PHOTOs by leah harb
Search for fig trees in your neighborhood at www.urbanedibles.org. Ask before you pick!
1 Tbsp lemon juice
Fig Preserves
2 pounds just-ripe figs, quartered
2 cups sugar
1/3 cup strained lemon juice
1. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Cover and set aside for 8 to 12 hours at room temperature, until the sugar is mostly dissolved. 2. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until figs are partially translucent and syrup is slightly thickened, 30 to 40 minutes. Ladle into sterilized pint or half-pint mason jars. Process for 10 minutes in a hot water bath. Makes 2 1/2 pints Adapted from Linda Ziedrich, The Joy of Jams, Jellies and Other Sweet Preserves, The Harvard Common Press, 2009
Fly Newtons This is a hybrid of several favorite recipes—one for Squashed Fly Cookies, one for Fig Sandwich Cookies and one for fresh fig spread. Filling
DOUGH
1 tsp vanilla
Combine flour, sugar, salt and butter in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until crumbly. Add egg yolk, egg and vanilla. Mix just to combine. Divide into 2 balls and chill. The dough is very soft and sticky; work with it chilled and return it to the refrigerator if it becomes too sticky.
2 Tbsp butter
Assemble
4 cups fresh green figs, quartered
1/2 cup honey 1/2 cup red wine or port 1/2 cup orange juice
1 tsp orange zest
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp kosher or sea salt
DOUGH
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/4 tsp kosher salt
7 ounces cold butter, cut in cubes
1 egg yolk
1 egg
Roll out one ball of dough into a 9 x 13inch rectangle. Place on a plastic-lined cookie sheet and brush with egg wash. Spread fig puree over dough, pressing lightly. Roll out second dough ball and lay over fig filling. Press in lightly.
Trim edges. Add 1 Tbsp water or cream to remaining egg wash. Brush over top layer. Air dry uncovered for 30 minutes. Run a fork through dried glaze to create decoration. Freeze on pan for 1 to 2 hours. Remove and cut into desired shapes. Place on parchment-lined cookie sheet and bake at 375 degrees for 12 to 18 minutes or until the top becomes golden. Makes 1 9-by-13-inch tray
Recipe by Ellen Jackson
3/4 tsp vanilla EGG WASH
2 eggs, beaten
Pinch kosher or sea salt Filling
Combine figs, honey, wine or port, orange juice and zest, nutmeg and salt in a nonreactive saucepan with a heavy bottom. Cook on low, stirring occasionally, for 60 to 90 minutes or until mixture is dark and thick. Add vanilla and stir in butter until melted. Allow to cool completely.
edible portland FALL 2011 l 17