The Beauty Case

the beauty case Issue 1: May 2013

TREND ON TRIAL BLACK LINER GETS UPDATED

SUMMER IS HERE

THE HAIR, SKIN & MAKE-UP

VIVE LA FRANCE

£3.00 PRINTED IN UK

WHY THE UK LOVE’S FRENCH BEAUTY

THE ARTIST The power of make-up is uncovered 1

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the beauty case contents: issue 1

the trends

the regulars

the extras

Beauty’s new ingredients

Your guide to pefect foundation

This month’s contributors

12 Turkish Delight 13 Feeling Blue

Say goodbye to black liner

14 Lip Service

It’s time to update your look

22 The New Bedhead Say goodbye to sexy

23 Trendy Tresses

54 The Foundation Files 56 Editors Top 5

10 Get the cover look

The Beauty Case’s favourites

Created by Tamara Tott

We quiz make-up artist Liam on the beauty world

Sneak peak of next the issue

57 Profile: Liam Farrerly

62 Next months issue

59 Model Make-Up

This summer’s hottest hair looks

Take a peek inside our cover girl’s make-up bag

Staying safe in the sun all year round

Rediscover Clarins

24 Get Protected

7 Who did it?

60 Brand in Focus

the features

28 Allergic to Beauty

How safe labelling will protect women with nut allergies

32 The Artist

This issue’s beauty editorial

Read all about Liam Farrely on page 57

38 The Beautiful Feminist

What does make-up mean to 21st century women?

41 Trust me, I’ve Never Used It Life of the beauty counter girl

44 Rise and Fall of the Beauty Vlogger How video is the future of beauty

48 Feed Your Face

Eat to save your face from skin conditions

50 Vive la France!

The best of beauty from across the Channel

Update your look, Lip Service on page 14

Welcome to the first issue of The Beauty Case ELLIE MATHEWS

Hello readers, and welcome to the first issue of The Beauty Case. This magazine is all about beauty, from mascara to diet, skin care to industry interviews. And it’s all about women. It’s a magazine for you to learn from, to pour over and to share with friends.

We want to teach you about the beauty world in a new way. We believe in honesty. We believe in truth.

Too much of old journalism, especially fashion and beauty, is dishonest and damaged by the influence of advertisements, sponsorship and ‘the big bosses’. We don’t believe in image re-touching; we believe in showing how make-up really works.

Make-up is a beautiful tool, but body confidence and treating your body from the inside out is also something we think is key to being not just a beautiful woman but a successful woman.

In this issue we display a wide spectrum of beauty issues. I tell the story of women who love beauty but suffer from nut allergies, and the importance of protecting these women. We took the campaign to the leading voice in the beauty industry and you can read all about how things are going to start changing. Keeping with the food theme, on page 48 we explore how your diet can overhaul of your beauty cabinet. We also empower women in this issue.

Dr Katherine Brown looks at where feminism stands within the beauty world, and where beauty stands within twenty-first century women’s life. We also look at the life of a beauty-counter girl, giving you a rare insight into the women who you trust with your face.

Don’t forget, you can follow us on Twitter and YouTube for regular updates. Also check out The Beauty Case Online for bonus content behind this issue.

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the beauty case Editor-in-Chief Ellie Mathews

Features

Ellie Mathews

Design

Ellie Mathews

Editorial

Photographer Bex Day Make-Up Artist Tammy Tott Hair Stylist Jeff Kang Models Laura Cherry Letitia Herod Sasha Attwood

With thanks to Models 1 and Select Models

Contributors

Dr Katherine Brown Shona Wallace

Digitial

Ellie Mathews

Imagery

Corbis, Google Images, Kilpatrick PR, Cancer Research, Benefit Cosmetics, Chanel, Pure PR, The Communications Store, Halpern PR and Dowal Walker PR.

www.thebeautycasemagazine. wordpress.com thebeautycasemagazine@ gmail.com @thebeautycasemag PRINTED IN THE UK

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the beauty case online Tweet us

Catch up on all the latest Beauty Case news and exclusive snaps

Bonus

Read our Lip Service extra details, and shop our favourite lipsticks

Behind the scenes

Watch

See more behind the scenes photos and mini interviews with models, make up artists and contributors.

Watch The Beauty Case Editor testing out blue liner, and see our favourite blues

Read more beauty hints, tips and exclusive content on thebeautycasemagazine.wordpress.com Tweet @thebeautycasemag 9

GET THE COVER LOOK

This month’s cover girl is model Sasha Attwood and make-up artist Tamara Tott created this bold liner look on Sasha. Using elegant lines and deepest black ink, this classic look has been updated on Sasha to look classy yet edgy.

Start with a clean canvas. Use your favourite medium coverage foundation and concealer to even out the skin tone. Aim for a matte finish. For advice on selecting foundation, check out The Foundation Files on page 54. Fill in the brows in to create a groomed shape, and use a cream coloured shadow across the lids. Darker skins should use a deep brown shade across the lid to match their skin tone.

Using a black liquid or gel liner, balance the hand on your cheekbone then run the line across the top lash line. Flick the line straight out at the outer corner of the eye. You may find it easier to draw small lines along the lid then join them up, rather than one whole line.

Tamara then used Kiki Black Pencil Liner inside the rim of the eye at the top and bottom to create a clean black liner around the eye.

We also recommend Avon Supershock Pencil Liner in Black, as this is extremely long wearing.

Use a soft pink blush on the apple of the cheek, and a clear lip balm to top off this classy, simple look.

Read more about Sasha’s make-up favourites on page 59.

trends

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TREND

TURKISH DELIGHT

Traditional beauty techniques and ingredients from across the globe are making a ressurgance. The Beauty Case guest writer Shona Wallace investigates this new trend and the delectable wonders that Turkey and Japan have to offer.

Guest writer Shona Wallace

Bee venom, ruby crystals, dragon’s blood, eye of newt? It’s all double, double, toil and trouble in the beauty industry, with some of the hottest ingredients sounding rather more like potions than they do lotions.

Backed by a wealth of questionable research, these otherworldly new ingredients are often style over substance and can even have a detrimental effect on the condition of the skin.

Latest releases, however, suggest that beauty researchers are taking a little break from the lab and moving instead to their kitchens, seeking to discover a new breed of edible elixirs.

Though the term connotes products that beautify from the inside-out, edible elixirs are instead key beauty ingredients found within everyday foods and drinks that we tend to take for granted.

A store-cupboard staple, olive oil, is used and abused by chefs the world over, but the beauty credentials of this golden essence are not to be overlooked.

Particularly favoured by sun-drenched Mediterranean dwellers, nourishing olive oil products are going to be huge this summer, offering a gentle antidote to all the “acids” and “peptides” that are usually given the hard sell. Olivia by Marius Fabre, a boutique brand offering kind-to-skin products, creates simple gels, moisturisers and creams that are olive-oil based to soften

the skin in the most natural way possible.

Check out marius-fabre.fr.

Turkish olive oil is a winner in the beauty department. Moisturising, restorative and soothing, the olive oils abundant in Turkey are integral to the booming spa trade in the country. Particularly nourishing are the black olives from the Gemlik region. Their oils are used in Turkish baths but also in natural salts which are available in the UK (£3.50, The Turkish Deli).

Rather more abstract is the emergence of sake derivatives in skincare, as seen in Japan. Japan is a leader in every area of beauty science and now a number of leading brands are seeking to optimise the health benefits of rice bran, often solely used to make the boozy beverage.

Komenuka Bijin is a beauty brand founded by one of Japan’s most prolific sake brewers. Their expansive range of beauty products draws on the purifying qualities of rice bran, supposedly an effective cleanser with a brightening effect. Start by trying their Komenuka Bijin Facial Cleansing Powders.

These are not currently available in the UK but can be shipped from the US. Though these ingredients do sound rather promising, research is very much in the early stages, so let’s refrain from splashing sake on our faces during our next sushi lunchsuch a terrible waste.

Turkish olive-oil is beauty’s next big ingredient.

TREND ON TRIAL

FEELING BLUE

Catwalk make-up trends can be difficult to transfer to daily life. However, Editor-in-Chief Ellie Mathews believes The Beauty Case has uncovered the best summer trend for 2013: blue eyeliner

Blue eyes or not, the blue liner trend for 2013 is refreshing, summery and nothing like the 80’s blue we may remember. Gone is the garish sky blue eyeshadow, paint rolled on foundation and teamed with a fuchsia lip. Blue is chic this time round. The Beauty Case put this trend on trial and asked: Is blue really the knew black?

Seen everywhere from Just Cavalli to Versus, Moschino Cheap and Chic to Stella McCartney, blue liner is the biggest trend for 2013. But possibly the scariest. Women with beautifully shaped eyes who only need a coat of mascara on their already dark lashes can forgo the sweep of liquid across their eyelid and still look like a sex siren.

Others, however need a little help along the way which usually comes in the form of a black eyeliner. Pencil, gel, liquid or felt tip, we cannot get enough of black liners.

So when it comes to changing up that classic, chic ever so fifties black to blue... the boots are quaking. So many runway trends are just not transferable to the pavement and yet here at The Beauty Case we believe this trend is totally achievable. For one week, editor in chief, Ellie, said goodbye to her trusty black liner- a staple since 2005- and swapped it for a more modern alternative.

Just Cavalli

Blue eyeliners and eyeshadows can be purchased from many brands

Stella McCar

tney

EDITOR’S NOTES

“I’ve worn black liner since I first discovered make-up. Despite my initial fear of this trend, I am actually surprised to report that it truly is that rare thing: a transferable trend. As easy to achieve as standard liner, it is a funky update on a classic. I may be kissing goodbye to black for a while!”

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TREND SHOOT

lip It’s time to update your look and the easiest way to do this is by changing your lip colour.

Whether you have been searching for the perfect red all your life, or are tempted by the grown up goth look, lip colours are the strongest way to change your appearance.

Step out in daring colours, bold blends and ranging textures. This is our edit.

service

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Photographs: Bex Day Make Up: Tamara Tott Director and Words : Ellie Mathews Model: Laura Cherry

TREND SHOOT

LIP SERVICE: DETAILS

PURPLE HAZE Gone are the days where purple lipstick was reserved for angst ridden emotional teenagers and grown up goths. Purple lips are an easy way to add a touch of sexy gothicness to any look, without scaring off friends.

Lighter purples actually give a barbie-esque look, and darker purples look amazing on black skins.

In this shot, Tamara used a slick of Sleek’s Mulberry lipstick (£4.99, Superdrug) around the edge of the lip, and a Kryolan bright pink lipstick (LC120) in the centre. The ombre effect is a more modern way of wearing a purple lip. Although it can take a little work, products such as Maxfactor’s Colour Effect Flipstick (£8.49, Boots) in Boreal Mauve speed this look up.

Toping with a clear gloss will give the lip a juicy finish.

RED VELVET The classic red lip is something loved by all, but feared by many. It can be extremely difficult to find the perfect red to suit your skin tone. “The choice of red is effected by not just skin tone, but hair colour and eye colour and even your clothes and accessories”, says Tamara.

In theory, cooler skin tones should look for a red with a blue undertone such as MAC Ruby Woo (£14, MAC) for a matte look or Dior Rouge Lipstick in Blossom Red (£25, Selfridges) for a glossy finish.

Warmer tones should look for a red with an orange undertone. This also works well for olive and tanned skin.

MAC Lady Danger (£14, MAC) is a classic orange red and has a matte finish. For a softer impact and a last all day effect, Korres Colour Mango Butter Lipstick in 52 (£15, House of Fraser) is a smooth alternative.

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OPULENT ORANGE Orange can be a tricky colour to grasp.

Too strong a colour and you run the risk of looking a little theatrical, and too beige the skin can look washed out.

Two good ways of tackling orange, is to look for a orange toned red for a strong look or using an orange gloss if you’re a little nervous. Dior Addict Ultra Gloss Plumping Volume Spectacular Shine in Orange Pareo (£21, House of Fraser) has enough pink tones in it to not look overly stand out orange but still give a coral flash to the lip.

Braver readers may like Bobbi Brown Lip Colour in Orange (£18, Harrods). It gives a strong pop of orange, and would be best teamed with a flick of brown mascara and groomed brows.

The Beauty Case promotes individuality, so test any shade on your skin tone and if you love it then use it!

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TREND

Somewhat akin to the A/W13 collections themselves, the notable beauty trends from London’s top shows were very much hit and miss. Resounding hits among the editorial elite were the wearable coral lip at Felder Felder and the modern hair slick at Temperley, while the misses included the graphic eye at Jean Pierre Braganza which was undeniably striking but certainly not wearable.

The trend that has many on the fence, however, is the ugly-pretty aesthetic as seen at Simone Rocha’s hit show. Inspired by her grandmother, the collection was unveiled only to the industry’s most prolific editors and was certainly a standout of London Fashion Week this season.

Abundant in sugary shades of pink, cream and lemon, the collection was toughened up with lashings of black patent leather and flat glossy Oxfords. Very much a show of contrasts, the prettiness of sculpted skirtsuits and feathered dresses was starkly juxtaposed with stand-out messy bedhead hair.

Be careful here, for this is not bed-head as we know it. This is not Miranda Kerr in a satin Victoria’s Secret robe with softly tousled waves, or any other fully made-up model who has “just rolled out of bed”.

No, thank heavens, for this look is far more realistic.

Actual bed-head is certainly not sexy: it is frizzy, more than a little bit unruly and rather similar to candyfloss. For Autumn/ Winter 2013 however, apparently it is chic.

Backstage at Simone Rocha, Bumble & Bumble's James Pecis back-brushed hair to the extremes before tying back and teasing out individual strands for a softly wispy look, evoking a uniquely modern eccentricity.

Paired with the most minimal of make-up looks, this messy style looked particularly fresh and new, working wonderfully with the distinctly futuristic and feminine collection.

For a vibrant Summer interpretation, take your inspiration from Giles’ Spring/ Summer collection, where artfully unruly

Simone Rocha A/W 2013 show. Image from Style.com

THE NEW BEDHEAD

As with every new trend, the best place for beauty inspiration is on the catwalk. The Beauty Case guest writer Shona Wallace talks the new bed head. But don’t get confused with sexy looking ruffled locks; you have rolled out of your own bed this time.

Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray and MAC Show Orchid

hair was paired with nearly-naked skin and a bold fuschia lip; try MAC Show Orchid (£14, MAC).

At long last, this is a hair look that we can actually do ourselves. No top hairdresser or £80 hair masque needed here: all that is required is a good night's sleep.

For a softer version, without the vicious back-combing, rough-dry your hair in sections with a texturising spray such as Bumble&Bumble Surf Spray (£20.50, Selfridges) before back-brushing gently with a bristle brush. Spritz on a little flexible hold hairspray then simply pull back into a ponytail and muss up the front. Wear with dewy skin and rosebud lips for a fresh but cool look that nods to A/W 2013.

TREND

MOSCHINO

TRENDY TRESSES

Summer brings the frizz-filled hair, and polished Chelsea locks are even harder to achieve. Luckily for us all, simple hair looks are bang on trend for the warmer months. If bed head isn’t your cup of tea then never fear, there is a summer look out there for you too. Hair stylist and The Beauty Case hair expert, Jeff Kang, gave us the low down on the top hair looks for the summer months. Here’s how to achieve them.

Back combed beauties and vintage style volume were the call of the day at Moschino.

This look loves frizz, so there is no need to worry about the hair looking undone when the heat begins to rise. Team with flicked liner and nude lips for a day look, and amp it up with a red lip for night time.

RALPH LAUREN

DEREK LAM

GILES

Step 1: Start by using a volumizing shampoo and conditioner such as Frederic Giles’ tousled waves were created by hair experts Toni & Guy. This easy summer look should be teamed with neutral eyes and a bold lip colour.

Step 1: Start with a shine shampoo and conditioner, such as L’Orèal Nutri Gloss Crystal (£4.99 each, Boots) to create glossy locks.

Step 2: Add a little shine serum, such as Spring Summer 2013 at Derek Lam featured beautiful ballerina buns. It looks as good with sultry dark eyes or with neutral day make up.

Step 1: Make a tight pony tail the nape of the neck and secure with a band. We recommend using bands without a metal connector. This will avoid hair breakage and tangles.

Classic school girl locks were key at Ralph Lauren. Paired with neutral make up, straight hair met side partings and created a new look of youthfulness.

Step 1: Using a straightening styling spray, such as TRESemmé Salon Sleek Straightening Spray - Smooth (£4.99, Boots), on towel dry hair.

Step 2: Blow dry the hair using any wide-

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Fekkai Advanced Full Blown Volume Shampoo and Conditioner (£20 each, Space NK), to create texture and bounce Step 2: Blow dry hair with paddle brush for more shine and straight root direction Step 3: Use a curling tong or straightener to create large curls all over the hair Step 4: Back comb the top section of hair to create a slight beehive at the back of the head.

Toni & Guy’s Classic Shine Gloss Serum (£7.49, Boots) and blow dry all over.

Step 3: Use a large curling tong iron, avoiding the root. Apply the heat for a short time- around 5 to 10 seconds- otherwise the curl may be too strong.

Step 4: Comb the hair through to create a more natural wave and texture. Add a little more serum if the hair looks too dry. Team with a pop of colour on the lip.

Step 2: Roll the pony tail between two fingers to create a twist, wrap around the base of the pony tail in to a tight ballerina bun. Pin in to place with soft tip bobby pins .

Step 3: Use a shine spray, like Bumble & Bumble Shine On Finishing Spray (£21.50, Space NK) to create a glossy look. Finish with a medium hold hairspray such as L'Oreal Elnett Satin Diamond Hold (£6.60, Boots). tooth brush. Blow the air downwards to create a sharp straight style.

Step 3: Use a shine serum like Toni & Guy’s Classic Shine Gloss Serum (£7.49, Boots) throughout the hair. Be careful to avoid the roots as this may look greasy.

Step 4: Use a smoothing wax on the top section to create a clean parting. Using a wax will avoid a greasy look. Team with neutral make-up.

Words by Ellie Mathews

CAMPAIGN

GET PROTECTED 12,818 people were diagnosed with skin cancer in 2010. 5,505 of those were women.

2,746 of those people died. The Beauty Case is supporting the NHS campaign ‘Sun Smart’. We believe women should be protecting themselves against sun damage everyday.

326 of the women diagnosed in 2010 were aged 20-30 years old, and skin cancer (which is also known as melanoma) is the second most common cancer in 15 to 34 year olds. Since 2000 more women than men have been getting skin cancer, with 1 in 60 women being at risk throughout their life. And 14% of cases in women develop from the head and the neck, the area we beauty addicts pay most attention to.

Chronic sun exposure increases women’s risk of BCC (basal cell carcinoma) by 43% says Cancer Research UK. BCC is a skin cancer the develops in the deepest layers of the skin. It also increases SCC (squamous cell carcinoma) risk by 77%, which is a skin cancer that develops on the surface skin.

The Beauty Case wants to see women putting sun protection in to their every day routine. We apply layers of moisturiser, foundation and concealer to cover what we know as imperfections. Just one more layer could save your life.

According to Pop Sugar, a beauty blog and online store, women avoid wearing sun screen for varying reasons. These include that the sun “isn’t shining” and our love of a tan. The British Association of Dermatologists (BAD), however, advises that women who sunbathe or use sun beds are

During the British summer, the likelihood of sunshine is often low. However, the possibility of sun damage is extremely high.

Sun protection is essential for skin in the all year round but especially in the summer.

What do you need to be doing?

Thalgo Age Defence Suncreen

putting themselves at risk of melanoma.

Another in the aggravating chemicals within sun screens. Sun screen has moved on dramatically since the thick gloop of our childhood. Supergoop’s City Sunscreen Serum SPF 30 (£35 for 50ml, Space NK) is a multi-task product that not only cuts down your morning routine, allowing time to include sunscreen into your regimen, it is in a serum form and hence is light enough to not clog pores. The Uniprotect PT-3 formula aims to protect the skin from direct sun damage and free radicals. It also claims to promote cell renewal meaning the skin will start repairing itself faster after sun exposure.

Chantecaille’s Ultra Sun Protection, SPF 50, Anti-Glycation Primer (£79 for 40ml, Space NK), is specially developed to be light and to work under make up. The

formula contains a combination of three highly effective, non-penetrating screens: Avobenzone, Octisalate, Octinoxate. So whilst protecting you from the sun, it will avoid clogging pores.

With an SPF of 50, it easily meets the BAD guidelines which advise using at least an SPF of 30 on a daily basis. They advise applying sunscreen at least 15-30 minutes before going outside as this will allow it to absorb properly. So straight after cleansing and toning, apply your sunscreen.

The Ultra Sun Protection also contains cherry blossom, lemon balm and white tea extracts which are anti-inflammatory. It also prevents oxidation from the product, which protects the skin from burning and, as a bonus, keeps your foundation the same colour during the day.

The lure of the tan, however, can all too often over look the need for protection.

Luckily, Thalgo’s Age Defense Sunscreen Cream, SPF 50+ is designed to protect the skin from dangerous UVA and UVB rays, but allows the skin to develop a natural tan.

It also contains Sun’ytol and Astaxanthin, which are marine algae extracts with antiaging benefits.

We also recommend Institute Esthederm’s latest collection of sun protectants. “We’d like to educate women to take care of their skin very simply”, says Institute Esthederm.

“Sunlight is essential to all forms of life as a source of heat, light, vitamin D synthesis and as a natural anti-depressant.”

Institute Estherderm takes a different approach to sun care: working with the

CAMPAIGN

Institute Estherderm Photo Regul Face Cream

sun rather than against it. They believe that, instead of over protecting the skin women should be working wit the body’s natural defences to educate the skin to work with the sun. According the Institue Estherderm: “Tanning is the skin’s natural reaction that protects it against the damage caused by sunlight, although it may at times result in harmful side effects. Photo Cellular Care products neutralize the sun’s negative impact, while stimulating the skin’s natural capacity for self-defense, including tanning”.

And for oilier skins, we love Malin + Goetz’s SPF 15 Face Moisturiser. It is enriched with vitamins E, A, B, C and D to encourage the skin to absorb fatty acids whilst still gently moisturising and hydrating throughout the day. Although it has a low SPF, this moisturiser would be great for winter days.

There’s a sunscreen out there for every need, and newer technologies have helped to develop non-clogging products that are also anti-aging and hydrating. Support the NHS campaign ‘Sun Smart’ and put sun cream into your daily routine.

The British Association of Dermatologists are sending out these leaflets with advice on how to stay protected in the sun. Three simple steps could save you from skin diseases.

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features Allergic To Beauty 28 The Artist 32 The Beautiful Feminist 38 Trust Me, I’ve Never Used It 41 Rise and Fall Of The Beauty Vlogger 44 Feed Your Face 48 Vive La France! 50

Issue 1: The Beauty Case is here is to educate, and that is exactly what this issue’s features do. Come explore the allergic reactions to cosmetics, life of counter girls (and boys) and how we learn about beauty in the 21st Century.

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INVESTIGATION

ALLERGIC TO BEAUTY One in 200 people suffer from a nut allergy in the UK. It’s not hypochondria, but the result of improved medical science.

But how is the cosmetics industry dealing with this issue?

Editor-in-Chief, Ellie Mathews, tells the story from the inside.

My skin began to peel away, coming off in flakes and fragments. I hadn’t eaten in days and my body was beginning to break down.

Smiling, talking and even blinking became agonising. Each time I laughed, or worse cried, my skin continued to split and burn.

I was in hospital on a drip to feed my body and fight the reaction. This all happened from a simple skin cream.”

This is a call to action. The problem we face is that cosmetics do not carry the same label regulations and laws as food produce to protect allergy sufferers. The beauty world has seen the impact hairdye reactions. Regulations now strongly advising to test the product on the skin for at least 24 hours before use. In 2012 it was made UK law for all hair products containing hydrogen peroxide to advise consumers “to wear suitable gloves”. Surely the beauty industry has a duty to protect all its consumers, not just the ones that end up in the press?

I’ve had a nut allergy since I was two years old. I stole a fruit and nut chocolate bar from my grandmother and within two hours was in hospital. I have always been careful what I eat, but had no idea that beauty products containing nuts would effect me in the same way as eating nuts does.

In a recent trip to the high-street on the hunt for a hand cream, I was shocked to find only one hand cream from so many brands was nut-free. After flagging down an assistant and asking why this was, I was met with “Well shea butter is incredibly moisturising. We do have our hemp hand cream”. Um, sorry? I’m sure shea butter is lovely to those who do not experience a hospital trip every time they use it. We should be as fully informed as the next consumer.

Perhaps I am just being picky. Why should companies cater to those who suffer from nut allergies? At least one in 200 people in the UK are diagnosed with a nut allergy, so the need for clear and informative labelling should be high on the priority list for legislation makers. In fact, Allergy UK claim to “have regular calls to our helpline about reactions to cosmetics”.

The confusion for sufferers begins with where the responsibility lies. Firstly, the Food Standards Agency who control labelling and packing on consumable goods. Next, the CTPA (The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association), who are the UK cosmetic trade association covering definition of a cosmetic, legislative controls and general information concerning cosmetics. And

INVESTIGATION

Shea butter can be found in hundreds of beauty products, even those you would never expect such as nail polish remover.

lastly the UK Government, specifically the Department for Business Innovation and Skills who deal with product labeling and control legislation concerning cosmetics.

Shea butter is one of the most commonly used nuts in cosmetics. However, not many people know that it is a nut. Shea is eaten as in African and Caribbean countries, however in the UK it usually used in its

until several hours or even days after using the product. This makes it difficult to work out what has caused the problem.” Some sufferers are not aware of the danger that using products topically can have the same impact on their body as ingesting the allergen. Despite the fact they are taught what to avoid and what to look for, too many people are still having adverse reactions

“The most confusing and frightening part of this story is the unawareness of some suffers to the allergens in their products” butter form, from grinding the proteins within the nut. This ingredient was the focus for our investigation.

The most confusing and frightening part of this story is the unawareness of some suffers to the allergens in their products.

For a cosmetic product to cause a reaction it must be used more than once, often repeatedly. According to Allergy UK, a national charity established to represent people with allergy, food intolerance and chemical sensitivity, “Allergic contact dermatitis is an example of a delayed-type allergy and the reaction may not appear

to simple products such as moisturizers and lip balms.

Considering there are over 7,000 individual ingredients used in cosmetic products according the to CTPA, it is concerning that consumers are being left to decipher the often confusing INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names for ingredients. For example, sweet almond oil’s chemical name starts ‘prunnus’, which is often confused with the fruit prune. The CTPA makes note that due the to growing number of languages in the European Union, the use

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of common names for ingredients may become difficult, especially for products that are sold internationally.

We spoke to Maureen Jenkins, Allergy UK’s Director of Clinical Services, about this issue. When asked what beauty brands and consumer legislation could be doing to protect those who suffer from nut allergies, she said, “cosmetics should be labelled with potential allergens, e.g. nut products”.

She feels that, “clear labelling of allergens, as with food products” will help to protect sufferers.

The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) guidelines insist that “if the container is in an outer package the labeling will be on the carton”. However, there is no consideration made for sealed boxes or packaging. It is also acceptable for ingredient listings to be “displayed close to where the product is offered for sale”. How can a brand guarantee consumer safety if product ingredients are not clearly stated?

When questioned, the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS), who deal with packaging concerns said: “Fortunately severe anaphylactic shock is rarely caused by cosmetics. Where severely allergenic substances or ingredients are used in cosmetics, the European

INVESTIGATION

ROSIE’S STORY

When were you first diagnosed with a nut allergy?

Age 5 (17 years ago) Have you ever had an allergic reaction to a cosmetic product that has nuts in it?

Yes but only a skin reaction not a systemic one.

What happened in that reaction?

My arms came up in itchy then a very painful rash and swelled up.

A similar reaction occurred after using a shampoo with nuts in, but it appeared on my scalp.

Shea butter production in Africa. Shea is eaten as a vegetable in Africa and South America.

legislation does indeed require warnings on labelling, for instance in the case of various ingredients in hair dyes”. They went on say “There are no plans to extend warnings used on foodstuffs which are ingested, to cosmetic products, and this is perhaps due to the different nature of the risks involved”.

In the case of specific ingredients, the BIS claim: “We know that the European Commission’s Scientific Commission on Consumer Safety has been asked to look at peanut oil, but that is the only type of nut of which we are aware that has caused sufficient concern for a referral”. There is no reference to shea butter, one of the most common nut products in cosmetics.

In support of this, the CTPA makes no reference in its document ‘Cosmetic Products- Ingredient Labelling: Help note for dermatologists’ to shea butter. This document goes in to detail the possible allergens consumers may experience from fragrances or perfumes, some chemicals and also nuts, providing advice for both dermatologists and consumers.

The Beauty Case took these findings to the CTPA, and asked why consumers were not being protected from potentially catastrophic products. Chris Flowers, Director General of the CTPA told The Beauty Case: “CTPA has not previously been aware of significant allergic reactions to products containing this ingredient [shea butter]: on the contrary, it has often been extolled as suitable for people with problem

skin and some authorities have indicated that because the butter is low in protein it is unlikely to cause adverse reactions in nut-allergic individuals.”

After reviewing our investigation, we can reveal that the CTPA is looking to change things for those at risk. Flowers continues, “In the light of your information, we will contact the British Association of Dermatologists to seek their help and advice”.

“In the light of the BAD feedback, we will review the information we have on The Facts About relating to nut allergies and indeed the information we provide to dermatologists themselves in the help note”.

Although it is responsible for legislation, the department of Business, Innovation and Skills is in no hurry to tackle this issue.

In an email exchange with Tony EdenBrown, part of the Electronics, Materials, Chemicals and Product Regulations team at BIS, he had this to say : “The question of allergies often comes up and because of the nature of them it has been decided that too many warnings are counter productive.”

He continues, “Adverse hair dye reactions are generally far worse”.

Based on our research, and the feedback from the CTPA the future does look positive for nut allergy sufferers. With clearer packaging, the use of common names and the possibility of an allergen warning label, we hope to see a drop in the amount of victims suffering at the hands of beauty.x

Were you aware of nuts being used in cosmetics?

I hadn’t thought about it other than ‘almond body butter’ until having a reaction. Unless a product is named with a nut product it is really unclear if nuts are in them or not.

Do you know any chemical names for the nuts used in cosmetics? No but now stand in shops googling anything I don’t recognize on ingredient lists!

Do you feel that beauty brands should make allergens clearer on the labels of their products as with food products?

Yes. I recently found that if you use a lip balm or product with nuts in on broken skin it could be life threatening.

Do you believe the government should create legislation that forces beauty companies to make it clear if nuts are in a cosmetic product?

Yes. It’s not just an annoyance it can be serious even if just a moisturizer. You use your hands to apply most products and then go on to eat food. The product can so easily be ingested causing an even worse reaction.

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FEATURE SHOOT

the The power of make-up is often underplayed. Stories of supposed cosmetic surgery enter the press every day, sparking controversy over celebrities’ attitude to changing their face shape.

But in the words of Nicki Minaj “It’s just make-up”. We explore how great makeup and careful application can change the look of your face and get everyone questioning “what’s she had done”.

Don’t worry, your secret is safe with us.

artist

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EDITORIAL

FEATURE SHOOT

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EDITORIAL

Photographer: Bex Day Director and words: Ellie Mathews Make-Up: Tamara Tott Hair Stylist: Jeff Kang Models: Letitia Herod and Sasha Attwood

FEATURE SHOOT

THE ARTIST: DETAILS CONTOUR Darker powders, ranging from grey undertones to golden, create shadows in the face. This not only makes the face appears slimmer (when placed accurately), it can actually alter the shape of your features.

Want a deeper eye socket? Use a deep brown shadow with a grey undertone like MAC’s Omega (£12, MAC Cosmetics), lightly above your natural crease, et voilà! Bigger, Bambi style eyes. This technique is huge among young Asian women. This ‘cute’ look is exceptionally popular- huge eyes, tiny noses and pinky lips. To create a slimmer nose, use the same contour powder lightly along the sides of the nose. To give yourself a more pixie-esque turned up nose, apply the powder just under your nose point.

And when it comes to your face the possibilities are almost endless. Facial alteration via surgery is a huge step- see Lady Gaga’s terrifying high cheek bones circa 2011. However, it is easily achieved using contour. Use a contour powder such as Tom Ford’s Shape and Illuminate Powder (£55, Selfridges), or Sleek Face Contour Kit (£6.49, Superdrug) underneath your cheek bones to create a deeper shadow, and therefore higher cheek bones. To detect where exactly to place the shadow, make a fish face by sucking in your cheeks. Where the shadow appears apply the colour.

For a slimmer face all round, or if you have a round face and want to create more dimension, apply the powder around the hair line, under the jaw bone and create a ‘C’ shape from the hollows of your cheeks to the outside of your eye.

EYELINER The unmistakeable lure of liner. From pencil to gel, liquid to felt tip there is a wealth of choice available, dependent on what you need the liner to do. For the under eyes, use a pencil liner topped with the same colour shadow on top. This will allow the colour to stay strong and fade slower. To apply liner in the waterline (that’s the light pink flesh inside the eye), use a cotton bud

very gently along the flesh to remove any excess residue. Then, apply a pencil liner again very gently along the line. Be careful not to drag the skin around the eye area as this will cause premature creasing.

For lining the lop of the lid, we recommend liquid, felt tip or gel. Gel will last longest as it has a silicone base and will not be broken down by any foundation or shadow underneath. Use a thin brush along the lash line, such as the Real Techniques Line Liner Brush (£6.99, Boots), as close to the lash line as possible. Liquid and felt tip is often easier to apply and may be more useful for liner newbies. Use the applicator provided with the product, such as Lancôme’s Art Liner (£20, John Lewis) or Rimmel Exaggerate Liquid Eye Liner Black (£5.29, Superdrug), along the lash line. Balance your handle against your cheek bone, and look down in to a mirror keeping your eyes slightly shut to avoid smudging on the top lid.

Colours too change with seasonal fashions, but the everlasting effect of black liner is something all women can benefit from. The current craze is blue liner. See our debate on page 13 for more on that. If you have blue eyes, using a grey liner rather than black may be beneficial as it will not be as harsh against your eye colour.

BROWS If the eyes are the window to the soul, then the brows are the frame. So make the most of your brows. To create the perfect arch height take a pencil from the side of your nose straight up. Where the pencil meets the natural brow make a dot; this is the beginning of the brow. Turn the pencil so that is crosses the centre of the eye, keeping one end on the edge of your nose.

Again where it meets your natural brow draw a dot; this is the top of the arch. Then turn the pencil to 45 degrees along the outside edge of the eye. Draw the dot and this is the bottom of the brow.

Once you have achieved the shape, fill any gaps in the natural brow in. You can use brow pencils, such as the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Whiz (£15.50, Cult Beauty) or a brow powder, such as MAC Eyeshadow in

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Soft Brown (£12, MAC Cosmetics) or brow pen. For brow powders, use an angled liner brush, such as the MAC 266 or 236 (£16, MAC Cosmetics), to create small lines like natural hairs in any sparse areas along the brow. Carry out the same action with the brow pencil to create a natural but groomed effect. Brow pens, such as SUQQU Eyebrow Liquid Pen (£20, Selfridges) are becoming more popular. These are best for women with naturally strong brows with a dark colour, they a provide long lasting finish.

When using a powder or pencil, top with a brow gel. Anastasia Beverly Hills provides coloured brow gels from £16.50 (Cult Beauty), or for a clear finish try the MAC Brow Set (£12.50 Mac Cosmetics).

BLUSH That youthful glow is something we all cherish, but dollish cheeks are made for the runway. Blushes come in two key forms; powder and cream. You can also get liquid blushes, like Daniel Sandler’s Watercolour Fluid Blush (£13, Very.com). Cream blushers work well on drier skins and they provide a soft texture. The colour can be easily built up with layers, but start with a tiny amount and continue to blend it in to the skin. Powder blushers are more traditional.

They also provide a soft finish and work well on powdered skin as the blush blends in easily.

Colours can vary. You can often match your lip colour to your blush, and in the case of cream blushers these can be the same product. A pinky flush gives a healthy looking skin, a mauve tone works well with a dark eye as it keeps focus on the eyes, and reds look good with vintage make up.

Use a light touch and build up the colour until you have the desired effect.

The products mentioned in this piece have been tried and tested by The Beauty Case writers. Although they have been loved by us, they may not always be as effective on you. Please send any comments via email or Twitter.

INVESTIGATION

THE BEAUTIFUL FEMINIST Where does beauty, which has often enraged feminists, sit within the 21st century wave of thinking? Dr Katherine Brown, an expert in women’s studies, feminism, and human rights, dicusses.

Feminists come in all shapes, sizes and sexes and employ more opinions than you might imagine.

Last week I was chatting with a colleague about going to the hairdressers mocking myself for driving for forty minutes to a salon because it only used organic environmentally friendly products, cared for its workers, and happens to be one of the best salons in the (large) area, the absurdity of situation was not lost on either of us. Another colleague over heard this, and retorted “but why do you care what you look like?”

His image of feminists and feminism was stuck somewhere in the mid-seventies and eighties, imagining bra burning, hairy legged dungaree wearing women camping out on Greenham Common. He seemed blind to

the fact that I was in a suit, in heels and wearing make-up.

The women fighting for our rights and freedoms in the sixties, seventies and eighties and before were challenging beauty ideals of their time, as well as demanding that they are given equal pay, not to be owned by the men they marry, childcare support, protection from violence in the home and on the streets.

They fought to have equal access to opportunities, for representation in the political system, to have control over their own bodies. These battles regretfully are not won. Yet it seems the more power women get in society the more unobtainable

the beauty ideal becomes. So is society keeping women in their place by making them paranoid about how they look?

But my colleagues comment does point to a tension between feminist critique of sexual objectification and commercialised notions of femininity and feminists engaging in these day-to-day comforts and privileges of “beauty work” that enables women to “fit in” in a mans world. “Beauty work” is the phrase used to describe the amount of effort, labour, money, time, in other words work, that people (primarily women) put into being “beautiful”.The average woman spends between 43 weeks and more than a year of her life applying make-up to

INVESTIGATION

Feminist books educate young women on their rights

achieve an unrealistic ideal of beauty. That is the equivalent to spending over 91 hours or more than three days per year, simply in front of the mirror, perfecting, styling, plucking, altering, in order to achieve the societal construction of ‘beauty”.

Its not just time but money too. The Daily Beast calculated that the average woman will spend half a million dollars in her lifetime on her hands, feet, body, face and hair (excluding diets, gym, and plastic surgery).

Australian Vogue worked out that Kate the Duchess of Cambridge spends £105,000 ($159,000 AUD) per annum on her beauty and fashion.

Naomi Wolf comments in The Beauty Myth and inThe Feminist Mystique, as do other writers, that it not just time and money lost however, but more significantly the physical and psychological harm done to women/ by women in the name of beauty. The damage done by the constant pressures to “be beautiful” emerges in eating disorders, harmful surgeries, daily anxieties, allergic reactions to cosmetics. And as Grace Bello writes in Bitch Magazine, the ugly truth of the beauty premium is that most women cannot meet it because of their race, age, class, and physic cannot match these ideals and are taught through constant societal and media pressure to hate their bodies. If you think I am exaggerating consider the “Doll Experiment” in the A Girl Like Me (2005 and 2006) documentaries.

Despite all of the well documented reasons not to participate in the “beauty” game, I realise that among my female friends, more of them are willing to support the right to abortion, to equal pay, to gay

marriage, than they are to leave the house without lipstick on. The pressure to be “beautiful” and to conform to standards of beauty, such as shaving legs or underarms, of minimising wrinkles, became harder for women to ignore as they seek entry into the work place. The truth of the matter is, the more beautiful you are, the more you conform, the more you will get paid, the quicker you will get promoted, the more you will succeed.

According to the 2006 report Why Beauty Matters, “Workers of above average beauty earn about 10 to 15 percent more than workers of below average beauty”.

So the effort you spend on your beauty regime is an investment. As comedienne Kelli Dunham said “if I was wearing what I am wearing now, but had irregular or asymmetrical features, maybe people would be interacting with me differently. I wouldn’t necessarily know though, that’s what privilege is when you have something you don’t recognise.”

Indeed privilege has its opposite, the fact that women with disabilities are more likely to be victims of domestic violence than those who are not. And think about the incessant “slut-shaming” and victim blaming that characterises national debates on violence against women. Embracing “ugly” as Jessica Valenti suggests is not that easy and comes with costs as we manage invisibility and hypervisibility in the workplace, in our homes and on the street.

Louis Banner, the author of American Beauty wrote that the use of fashion and beauty products evolved as a “rejection of the Victorian prohibition on sensual expression” (275). Valerie Steele, writer of Fashion and Eroticism, agrees: “It is absurd to blame fashion, as such, for turning women into sexual objects”. Fashion and beauty are ways that allow women to explore their sensuality, and express

So if it is “my choice” even, to decide how I am seen, at work as a professional confident woman aided by the added hight of heels, or my friend wearing her Caravelli hijab at the coffee shop with immaculate makeup, then whatever beauty work we carry out to achieve this expression of ourselves is ok by feminism. But really, as Autumn says about leg hair removal on a discussion on The Beheld website: “Yes it’s for me; my boyfriend couldn’t care less...But I know full well that I wouldn’t have dreamed this up—this irritating, time-consuming, and occasionally bloody act—on my own.”

Given that like many women, my understanding of the gender politics around beauty, shaving and makeup, has had so little impact on my willingness to carry out these acts, the question then is how can I do this and stay close to my ideals? How can I alter my daily beauty regime, and is it at any cost? I have started buying environmentally friendly, not tested on animals, fairly traded products - where possible. This is how I ended up driving such a long way to the hair dressers. Cosmetics are not regulated in the same way as medicines and household chemicals, so its hard to know whether what you put on your face is actually safe, let alone if it is produced in a way that is harmful to the environment or to animals.

Also, I try not to judge other women for their beauty regimes and performance of beauty in the work place or the street.

This is not always easy, it means undoing years of media and societal messaging and stereotyping, but as Charlotte Poole featured in the Huffington Post made me realise, our body work is only one part of us - she chooses through surgery and lots of body work to emulate the “Barbie girl” look but has two degrees. To help I remember “the sunscreen” as Baz Lurhmann suggests in “Everybody is free...” And play it loud in the car.

“The average woman spends between 43 weeks and more than a year of her life applying make-up” their identities publicly. Perhaps there is a missing discussion of female desire in feminist writings on beauty, and for some women looking “pretty” gives confidence and empowerment. So beauty work can be more than a duty of womanhood but a matter of creativity and self-expression.

We are social creatures, who love to be seen and to see. This is the idea behind the new website This Is My Beautiful urging women to love who they are now and have confidence to celebrate their beauty however they chose to express it.

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In that sense, feminist beauty is as varied as there are feminists. Being comfortable in the skin your in seems however to be the essence of feminist beauty. Emma Stone is quoted as saying “confidence is the only key. I can’t think of any better representation as someone who is unafraid to be herself.”

Another examples include Lady Gaga and her little monsters, bodyrevolution who asks us not to hate our bodies, to expose our so called flaws, and see beauty outside of stereotypes.

INVESTIGATION

TRUST ME, I’VE NEVER USED IT When beauty shopping, you are putting your face in their hands.

It is a relationship that requires trust and an understanding of your needs. We think it is time we put ourselves in their shoes and investigate the life of the beauty counter assistants.

Beauty giant Make-Up Store is available in their boutique stores across the UK.

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In 2011, the UK spent over £14 million on beauty and personal care, which is expected to grow to £18 million by 2016. But in terms of customer service and delivering the ultimate beauty experience, where does the industry stand?

We have seen lavish new beauty floors opened in Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty and John Lewis in the last year, however the counter assistant appears to have not changed from the pushy and intimidating character we are familiar with.

We have all experienced the difficult counter assistant. It seems you cannot walk through any beauty hall these days without being spritzed with 10 different perfumes and suffering a shame inducing coughing fit at the lack of oxygen. Have you ever taken the time to think ‘do they actually want to do this to me’? Realistically the answer is probably no, so what is it that is pushing them to slap layers of foundation on your face and talk you in to buying an eye cream you do not want?

When we visit the beauty counter we imagine we are in the hands of a beautician.

However the case may be that you are actually visiting a woman under intense pressure to sell.

The Beauty Case spoke to Kate*, manager of a luxury beauty brand counter in Bristol.

In her role, she controls two members of staff every day and is responsible for the mountains of paperwork that ensure the counters success. “It is like running your own business. You are managing the team, you do all the paper work, you do the weekly figures, you do the monthly figures, everything to do with the paperwork,” says Kate.

In training for her role, Kate mentions the

Beautiful Chanel displays within the department store

skin care. The mens, the body, sun care and tanning and skin care as well” says Kate.

“You have to learn all the ingredients, you have to learn all the benefits” she continues.

After the first weeks skin care education, Kate had three days of sales training.

Employees are taught to sell, how to do sales workshop events and how to promote products. However, during this process rather than skills in make up artistry, although Kate is a qualified beautician, there is a focus on selling products to customer and pushing sales.

This is further emulated during the interview stages. “They will ask you your experience of where you’ve worked before in customer service that sort of thing”, says Kate, “They are happy to take on women who want start off in the [beauty] industry”.

Once you make it to the counter, the expectation continues. Although most

“One of the girls might lie and say she wore a product the other day” intense process that her brand imposes on employees. She explains: “When you first start off, everybody gets a two week intense course in London. When I mean intense it I mean very intense. I was crying that is how intense it was.” She continues: “The job relied on whether you passed your training and I think it still does... you have to get 65%.”

Although the initial stress of the “two hour exams every single morning”, may seem the cherry on the cake for these employees, the content of this course is more revealing of the brands intentions. “You have one week of the initial training and it’s learning all about

women wear a uniform to work, on this counter your job depends on looking perfect. “They do like you to wear heels between the main selling times - 11am and 3pm,” says Kate. “I know a lot of companies are hot on the way you look. To the point where you have to have your hair in a bun, you have to have your make up perfect, literally everything perfect, and if you don’t... they’ll come down on you hard.”

And on top of all the expectation and pressure on these women, both for Kate and her employees, the constant need to improve sales targets every week can become a struggle. “We are set goals to

sell so many [products] a day, and it’s great that you’ve been given these goals but they’ve got to be more understanding and be more realistic in understanding the area. My area is a lot younger targeted, not as much money as say Bath has got or Cheltenham”.

In aim of reaching these high sales targets, Kate’s team does not have inhibitions when it comes to shady sales tactics. “One of the girls wears a full coverage foundation but she would still sell the light coverage and say ‘it’s a beautiful radiant finish’. She might lie and say she wore it the other day” Pressure at work is one of the main causes of stress in women. Professor Cary L. Cooper, CBE, is a Distinguished Professor of Organizational Psychology and Health, and President of RELATE. He believes: “There are now fewer people in the work environment, doing more work than ever before, and having to meet targets like never before so the pressure is really on.”

The Beauty Case informed Professor Cooper of our findings with Kate. He felt that “the worse they [the staff] are managed, and the less training they get the more stress they are going experience because demands for delivering will be great”.

The symptoms of work place stress can be varied, depending on how someone deals with high pressure environments.

Cooper continues: “Physical symptoms being, constant irritability, difficulty sleeping at night, eating too much, drinking too much, or eating too little”. In more serious cases it can lead to constantly getting colds and flus due to a lowered immune system, angina, palpitations, depression and anxiety attacks.

And although Cooper agrees with The Beauty Case that pressure can be a stimulating and motivational thing,

*Kate’s name has been changed to protect her identity.

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INVESTIGATION

Women used to be directed and educated by lively counter assistants, but things are a little different now

sometimes it can negatively impact the employees job. Kate says “I’m a bit over the top when I serve a customer because that is the way the brand tell you to be. Very enthusiastic”. To achieve this bubbly attitude you need confidence and self-esteem.

Despite the less intense training, Kate does not believe this will effect the calibre of the staff coming to work for the brand, as they are finding staff internally. “I know with recruiting now, they’re doing it more within the company... People want to progress

“I’m over the top with a customer... that’s how they tell you to be” Cooper explains, however, that when staff cross over to the stress zone, “people lose their self confidence and become a little more socially withdrawn, less self confident, and less assertive”.

So in spite of the need to be confident women we look to when shopping for beauty, she is often more introverted and withdrawn than we would expect. The need to hit high sales targets, as much as £54,000 a month on a single counter according to Kate, can be a test to some women.

In the last few months, however, Kate has noticed a change in the way her brand treats their employees. When discussing her work place make up, Kate explains, “they used to say ‘have your season colours’. So every few months we have different colours come up and we used to have to wear them. Obviously not everybody suits those colours, not everybody likes those sort of colours. So now they’re a lot more relaxed”.

Kate has also seen changes in the way the women are trained, and believes less intense training will actually encourage people to work for the brand. She says, “I know now they don’t do the exams, and at the end of the week they just get asked a few questions”.

more” she explains.

So next time you’re at the beauty counter, spritzed to hell or wearing the wrong shade of foundation, take a moment to think ‘perhaps it is not her fault’. In the coming years, we may see that change in the impression of counter girls that the beauty industry is going for. However, we are yet to see these changes across all brands or whether things will change at all.

The extremely luxurious new beauty hall at John Lewis Oxford Street, in London

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INVESTIGATION

RISE AND FALL OF THE BEAUTY VLOGGER In an age where the blogger rules fashion and beauty coverage, writers can become a star overnight. We look at the next big thing, the beauty vlogger, and find out how rosy cheeks does not mean a rosy life.

INVESTIGATION We live in a world competition and it’s where the next big all about the views or fashion ad beauty the money. It’s sad”, trends are dictated by Victory explains. girls in high school who Victory was offered pour their thoughts the role of a Youtube on to the Internet. Not partner in May 2011.

Vogue journalists or Since its launch in front row celebrities.

2005, Youtube has Young women such International bloggers Susie Bubble and Tavi Gevinson offered thousands of as Susie Bubble, Tavi content makers the Gevinson and Chiarra Ferragni have chance to become a partner. This allows the become household names from writing content maker to earn revenue from adverts their fashion blogs. However, the future is placed on their page or video by AdSense. looking towards video, not the written word. And although it appears to have strict rules The beauty vloggers, unlike their blogging on who can or cannot be a partner, the sisters are ahead of the trend when it comes number of people earning a living from to new age journalism.

Youtube is growing. Victory explains: “I Women are looking to vloggers more and know many people just use Youtube as more for beauty advice. But with the power a business and you know what they say; to influence so many people’s views, comes ‘Never mix business and pleasure’”. the responsibility to provide. And even when Content makers Anna and Jonathan all the boxes are ticked, and the vlogger is Saconne-Joly have been loading videos to top of her game, it can all still end in tears. Youtube since 2009. Anna has been running In 2010, a worldwide leader in networking, her own channel ‘The Style Diet’ since Cisco, predicted that 90% of the web would 2008. She graduated from Cork University be video content by 2014. And according to with a qualification in Fashion Styling and Chris Anderson, curator of TED talks, which used her knowledge to advise women on publishes recordings of idea conferences what to wear. Her channel has developed to online, “eighty million hours of Youtube cover fashion, beauty, life advice and since content is watched everyday around the the birth of her daughter she also uploads world”. advice for mothers.

British beauty guru and Youtube Anna and Jonathan currently run a daily sensation The Ugly Face of Beauty is run vlog channel called The Saconne Joly’s, by a twenty two year old Grace Victory. After which has followed them through three starting her channel in 2011, it has grown to house moves, their wedding and the entertain over 116,000 subscribers and to recent birth of their daughter Emilia. The date holds over 11 million video views. That channel has over 40 million video views, said, Victory believes there is more to come: and they now earn a living from it. In the Irish “I still think I have such a long way to go”.

Independent, Jonathan, also a graduate “At the time there weren’t many gurus on from Cork University with a degree in Digital Youtube I could relate to”, she says of her Media, laid their success to “relate-ability channel’s inspiration. “I thought if I made and honesty”. videos then some people be be able to As an inspirational voice in the beauty relate to me” she continues. And that is community, Anna admits that what inspires what has kept people coming back to her.

“People have always said I inspired them. I like talking and I feel my personality comes across a lot more”.

Victory launched her channel at a time when the beauty community did not really exist on YouTube. “I didn’t really have an opinion [of Youtube] because I didn’t know much about it. I just used it to watch music videos”, she explains. In the development of the Youtube beauty community much has changed. Victory describes: “When I first started Youtube everyone was friends.

There was so much support from one another and everything was full of positivity”.

But with development and change comes unrest. “Now, it’s like everyone is in

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her and other women has changed. “As a teenager I really liked Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot”, she explains. “Now I’ll find somebody on Youtube that I’ll think ‘oh my god I want to be like this person’”.

Anna describes this phenomenon: “I feel like nowadays, people that put themselves out there on the Internet are more tangible”.

She goes on to say: “You might idolize a movie star, but you could maybe relate to or look up to somebody who’s in the blogosphere or on Youtube”.

The responsibility to inspire viewers comes with the pressure not to fail. Victory admits that the expectation often gets to her: “The pressure is huge but I like to make people feel good. I know some people watch my videos to take away the pain they feel or to forget about what they are going through”. Alongside inspiring viewers, Victory acts as a support for young women and men who are suffering from bullying or self-confidence issues.

As a victim of bullying in her real life, Victory feels that Youtube personalities have the power to help viewers. “Just knowing that I have reached out to someone, anyone, and made them feel like they can get through what they are going through, makes everything worth it for me.” She explains: “I publicly told my story about the pain I was in and the addictions I was suffering from.

The response was overwhelming. I had parents of my subscribers email me and tell me that I had saved their child’s life” The Saconne-Jolys and Victory have been victims of online abuse. In 2012, late into her pregnancy, Anna received a message via Facebook, telling her to “be ashamed of herself” and, one viewer saying they hoped their baby “would be stillborn”. This not only received outcry from her thousands of viewers but the attention of newspapers including The Daily Mail and Irish Times and television channels TV3 and RTÈ.

Grace Victory, aka, The Ugly Face of Beauty

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Jonathan and Anna Saconne Joly and their daughter Emilia

In January this year, Anna hit out at the ‘trolls’ who make daily negative comments.

In fighting fire with fire, Anna posted a message on her Instagram page which has accrued over 8,000 likes and 1,200 comments. She wrote: “To all the sick haters who leave disgusting comments about my baby being "slow", "ugly", "fat", "looking like a boy", "developmentally slow", "inane", "overweight", "mentally slow", "sluggish", "unresponsive"...etc. I feel so proud and content in knowing that I will never raise my child to be a bully like you”. Her husband and co-producer Jonathan told the Irish Independent: “She’s a new mother and so she felt she had to speak out”.

Victory says she often “dreads” reading her comments. She continues: “People have so much to say about you. It is like Youtubers are put on a pedestal. People forget we are just normal young women”.

She also gets called fat on nearly every video she loads and gets daily messages about the way she looks: “Somebody even made a Youtube channel to attack me, the channel name was "Graceisafatbitch".

Although generally Victory tries to rise above the negative comments, some viewers take it too far: “The worst message I ever received was ‘I hope your mum and sister get raped and buried in your garden, you should kill yourself you fat bitch’”.

These comments, says Laura Higgins, Manager of the Safer Internet Community (SIC) helpline, are not as rare as we would imagine. SIC is an advisory organisation that supports users of the Internet. On a daily basis she see’s the negative side of the Internet, however SIC also help to resolve cases of online harassment and bullying.

She explains that, “by posting some really horrible comments...what that does is give evidence. If it’s serious enough then obviously the police can help victims find out who that person is” Higgins makes the point that “Youtube is a US based organisation so first and foremost they will be adhering to US law and freedom of speech is far different there than it is here”. She describes that quite often haters refer to “people who are in the public eye as ‘fair game’ ... they leave themselves open to comments and so on being posted about them”.

Higgins feels that “the anonymous element” is only part the reason behind

it’s always about being the nastiest the quickest”.

However things do seem to be looking forward. “What we’ve seen in the last 12-18 months is a huge change in terms of the British Government, British law enforcement and Crown prosecution services taking more of an interest”, explains Higgins. She continues: “They are testing legislation through the courts, so we are seeing more cases being raised and going through the courts. Some are being upheld and some are not”.

“The stalking laws have also just been amending in the UK to include online behaviors. If it is very clear that someone’s intention by using online sites to harass and caused distress to somebody then there is now legislation that should cover that”.

It seems some viewers, who initially idolized and looked up to these women have turned the tables on them. Victory feels that Youtube could be doing more to protect content makers: “Their [the trolls] IP address should be traced and they should be blocked from Youtube. If their IP address was blocked then it would stop them from making numerous different accounts”. She jokes that, “my best friend told me to hire someone to go through my comments for me”, but feels “it would probably help a lot”.

So from the glamorous fashion parties, to the girl in her bedroom making videos online, the way we learn about beauty and the women we trust to teach us is changing.

Unfortunately so is the audience. Before the Internet, letters to the editor were a slow and formal process. The Internet has changed the way we communicate with our idols and educators. For now we cannot determine if that is for the better or worse, but as Victory describes “at times the things people say to me are so ridiculous I just laugh” Sometimes we all need to just remember, as Victory reminds us; “You're beautiful, imperfections and all”.

“The worst message I ever received was ‘I hope your mum and sister get raped and buried in your garden, you should kill yourself you fat bitch’” this behaviour. She explains: “Some people make a massive hobby out of it. They deliberately go there to try and get a reaction from people and for whatever reason that’s where they get their kicks because they know its something they wouldn’t be able to do in real life”.

The dark side of the Internet really comes in to the light here. Higgins describes: “There’s a bit of one upmanship among the trolling community... I think sometimes

Check out exclusive video content and behind the scenes clips on The Beauty Case’s Youtube channel.

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INVESTIGATION

FEED YOUR FACE It is the age of austerity, and spending hundreds of pounds on so-called miracle creams just isn’t cool anymore. The Beauty Case investigates how to treat your skin from the inside out.

Eating certain foods may help maintain healthy skin

What you eat really is what you are. Food choices can effect your skin condition, and some experts maintain that certain foods can improve skin conditions. Although this is challenged by others, we see nothing wrong with a healthy diet. But can you improve skin conditions, such as eczema, acne and dermatitis through food?

In the UK cases of eczema have been rising steadily and there are now 1.3 million sufferers in the UK, according to the British Homeopathic Association. It add that acne is the most common type of skin condition suffered by women.

And a new study in the US has found alarming results. A study from Rochester Epidemiology Project, reported in Science

Daily that skin conditions are one of the top five reasons US citizens visit the doctor. In their article found that “almost half of the study population was diagnosed with ‘skin disorders’ - acne, cysts, dermatitis - within the five-year period”.

For years we have been treating these conditions, along with signs of aging, with skin creams. From a £1.99 bottle of cleanser from the supermarket to a £600 Creme de la Mer concoction, we are addicted to skin creams. In 2011, the UK spent over £964 million on facial skin care, which is a £200 million pound rise since 2006 (Mintel).

But, we are in the era of penny pinching.

With home made versions of everything from curtains and cushions to the kitchen

sink, it is time to take a new (well old) approach to facial care.

According to the Biochemist Magazine, “the boundaries between cosmetics and medicinal products and even in some cases, foods, are becoming increasingly blurred”. Before the dawn of accessible skin care, women used a wide variety of natural products on their face to improve its colour and texture. Cleopatra, for example, spent every morning bathing in asses milk to moisturise and whiten her skin. In the time of Elizabeth 1st, “Women chiefly used ointments and lotions made from natural ingredients”, says historian Maggie Angeloglou in her book History of Make-Up. As with every craze there is a book to

INVESTIGATION

go with it. Dr Jessica Wu’s book “Feed Your Face”, is full of top tips to tackle a huge array of skin problems. Acclaimed by actresses such as Maria Bello and author Dawn Mellowship this book provides a 28 day plan “for younger, smoother skin and a beautiful body”.

In 2012, Dale Pinnock released “The Clear Skin Cookbook”. Pinnock is the UK’s first Medicinal Chef and is cashing in on the trend of eating for your face. He describes how in eating certain product we can change the overall radiance of our skin and look to improve acne, eczema and psoriasis.

Another is Karen Fischer’s 2009 hit “The Healthy Skin Diet”, which claims to be “your complete guide to beautiful skin in just 8 weeks”. Fischer believes that following her healthy diet plan readers can “achieve gorgeous blemish-free skin, whatever your skin type and whatever your skin condition”.

As with Pinnock and Wu’s books, Fischer promotes the importance of a healthy and balanced diet. We agree that a healthy diet is important for all women, but can it really, as these writers claim, improve your skin?

Wonderful as this may seem, there are actually huge differences in the way different types of skin work. According to the Journal of the European Academy or Dermatology and Vereology, “clinical acne was more prevalent in African American and Hispanic women (37%, 32% respectively) than in Continental Indian, Caucasian and Asian (23%, 24%, 30% respectively) women”.

Dermatologists and consultants across the UK, told The Beauty Case about the link between diet and skin conditions. Catherine Smith of Guys and St Thomas’ Hospital believes “the relationship between diet and skin, and skin disease, is complex”. She continues; “much of the research to date rather poorly executed making interpretation of the data that does exist challenging”. And according to Dr Vicky Jolliffe of Queen Mary University College Hospital, “the evidence for this [link] is quite limited in terms of clinical evidence”.

Leading international provider of food science, IFIS, gave us insight into the world of food as cosmetics. In 2012, over 150 studies explored the link between diet and skin care. Here’s what we found...

THE FOODS TO SOLVE YOUR SKIN DILEMAS DRY SKIN

Kakrol: Kakrol is a Japanese fruit. According to research by the Bioscience of Microbiota, Food and Health, kakrol inhibits the release of histamines.

Histamines produce the symptoms of an allergic reactions, such as dry patches and dermatitis. On day 46 of 80 the effects of dermatitis on mice had been notably reduced. The Bioscience of Microbiota, Food and Health say: “These results suggest that dietary kakrol may be beneficial for attenuating the development of dermatitis symptoms”.

Kakrol inhibits the production of histamines

Linolenic Acid: The Journal of Oleo Science found that foods containing linolenic acid can help to avoid dry skin. Dry skin in caused by high transepidermal water loss. Linolenic acid has been proved to improve the skin barriers and improve the condition of the skin.

Soya beans, canola and flex seed oil are all high in linolenic acid, as are kale, spinach, brussels sprouts and salad greens.

Linolenic acid is found in green vegetables

SUN DAMAGE

Carotenoids: Carotenoids are organic pigments found in foods like carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, kale, papaya, bell peppers and tomatoes. The Journal of Dietary Supplements has found that carotenoids can help protect the skin from photo damage, which comes from UVA and UVB exposure.

Tomatoes can protect skin from UVA damage

REDNESS AND SENSITIVITY

Black rice has anti-inflammatory properties

Black rice bran: The Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry found that black rice bran may reduce inflammation in sensitive skin and subsequent redness. They claim, “Our findings further demonstrate the potential value of black rice bran as an anti-inflammatory ingredient”. “The test results determined the effect of black rice bran extract on biomarkers including pro-inflammatory cells in the immune system” they continue.

ACNE

Omega-3: In 2008, a Canadian study published in Lipids in Health and Disease, suggested that omega-3 fatty acids may improve acne lesions, especially those that are inflamed. Foods high in omega-3 include oily fish, such as mackerel and salmon, beef, cows milk and eggs.

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Oily fish high in omega-3 fatty acids

vive la france!

TREND INVESTIGATION

Bloggers are in love with it. Journalists are in love with it. Soon enough you will be too. French skin care has taken a huge leap forward in the UK over the last twelve months, but the love is not for department store giants, but pharmacy brands synonymous with excellent skin care.

French favourites Bioderma Crealine, Vichy Soft & Soothing Toner, La Roche Posay Lipikar Body Moisturiser, Avene Soothing Moisture Mask.

The blogosphere is alive with love for Bioderma Crealine, a cleansing water developed for sensitive skin. Loved by international make-up artist Lisa Eldridge and blogging trendsetters such as Beauty Crush, the bonus is that it is cheap!

Bioderma is set to take over as the UK’s favourite cleanser from Lancôme’s Bi-Facil cleanser at £21 (Selfridges) a bottle or Yves Saint Laurent Forever Youth Liberator Cleanser (£35, Selfridges). However, you used to need a Eurostar ticket to get your hands on one.

All that is about to change. In April, Bioderma Crealine was launched in the UK. Costing less than £10 for a 250ml bottle, Bioderma is the new driving force behind French skin care in Britain.

Wondering why are we so in love with French skin care? Well the French attitude to skin care is very different to that of the UK, and this is reflected in their pharmacies and beauty halls. There are only three million more residents in France than in the UK, but the French spent nearly €100 million more on beauty in 2012. Even despite the 2009 market crash, French beauty spending kept steady and has remained around the €5,800 million mark for the last five years.

This is unlike the UK beauty spending which has fluctuated between €3,850 million and €4,900 million over the same period. (Mintel) The French are also the second biggest spender on beauty products in specialist stores at over €44 million, after Germany.

In huge contrast, the UK only spends €5.2 million in specialist beauty stores.

However, it’s not all about the money.

All of the above said, the French actually have a conservative attitude to spending on their beauty products. Only 11% feel that spending more money meant getting

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a better quality of product and this is where the love for pharmacy brands comes from.

These brands are pharmacy loves, which are often cheaper than typical French brands, and can give the impression of being more independent. However, success brings attention and favourite brands are being snapped up by the beauty conglomerates. La Roche Posay and Vichy are both owned by beauty giant L’Orèal, which also owns Lancôme and Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics. L’Orèal refused to share current sales figures for La Roche Posay and Vichy with The Beauty Case; however their 2012 cosmetics sales topped €20 million, 29.1% of which came from skincare.

With big names behind them, pharmacy brands are being further developed and funding is being poured in to creating more effective products. L’Orèal alone invested €791 million in to research and development in 2012; a huge jump from the €655 million invested in 2010. French health and beauty conglomerate Pierre Fabre, whom owns Eau Thermale Avène which is available in the UK, invests 20% of sales profits in to product research and innovation. They say this is noticeably higher than the market average.

According to Pierre Fabre: “Dermatology is the intersection of our Research & Development pharmaceutical and dermocosmetics. It is the cornerstone that gives meaning to our commitment to ‘health to beauty’.”

With the backing of huge beauty conglomerates, pharmacy brands can continue to grow and within that expand the excellence of their products. In the next five years, we should see more pharmacy brands coming across the Channel and in to our high street stores. Vive la France!

regulars

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HOW-TO

THE FOUNDATION FILES

Finding the perfect foundation is the hardest beauty nuts to crack. There are so many varieties of colour, texture, finish and coverage it can become confusing. In aid of a this, London College of Fashion alumni and make-up artist Candice Hutchison dishes the advice on selecting the best foundation for you. Her key advice? “Better quality doesn’t mean spending more.

Chanel foundations are actually made by the same manufacturers as Bourjois! There’s no difference”. Words by Ellie Mathews.

COLOUR

SKIN TYPES

Identifying your skin type is key to choosing your foundation. Different textures of foundation will work better on certain skin types, and can help to control excess oiliness or hide dry patches. There are five skin types: oily, dry, sensitive, combination and normal. “Splash a clean face with water, wait 20 minutes, then examine the skins texture”, says Candice. “Dry skins will feel tight and uncomfortable, oily skins will have developed a slick residue, and sensitive skins will have a red tinge. If you have none of these then you have normal skin, and any mix of them is combination.”

FOUNDATION TYPES

There are five main types of foundation: tinted moisturiser, cream, liquid, powder and minerals. There are also spray foundations, such as Dior Airflash (£33, Boots) but these are less popular and more difficult to work with due to the texture of the product.

Powders can be loose or pressed, and deciding between them is completely based on personal preference. Pressed powders provide the convenience that you can throw it on your hand bag without worrying about it leaking everywhere, but a loose powder often gives a softer finish.

Liquids can be divided in to different bases; oil, water and silicone. If you have an oily complexion, stay away from any foundations with an oil base as this will

cause excess oiliness on the skin. These usually have words such as ‘moisturising’, ‘luminous’ and ‘hydrating’ in their names.

It is also important to match your liquid foundation base with your moisturiser base.

If you are using an oil based moisturiser, but a water based foundation it will slip off the face during the day and create patchiness.

Silicone based liquids provide a smooth finish as they sit on the skin rather than sinking in.

The only difference between tinted moisturisers and BB creams is the skin care properties. They both provide a light coverage, and are great for most skin types.

BB creams do not clog pores in the same way traditional foundations do. Candice’s favourite in the Maybelline 8 in 1 BB Cream (£7.99, Boots)

SELECTING YOUR BASE

“Dry skins should be using a cream without powder. Oily skins a liquid with a non oily base, then powder to set. Combination skins can use a liquid, with a base that matches your moisturiser” advises Candice.

“Sensitive skins will need to identify a brand that works for them. A tinted moisturiser or BB cream would be helpful as the skin benefits will treat the skin whilst giving coverage”, she continues. “Normal skins are free to chose which base works for them, and choose between different types- you lucky things!”.

The foundation colour is where the most mistakes are made. The problem lies with the undertone of the foundation matching up with the undertone of your skin. “Warm skin is usually pink toned and cool tones are blue and green”, says Candice. It is important to identify your undertone as it will ensure the foundation colour will match your skin.

Candice advises: “Apply a dab on the forehead and another just under your chin.

There are different colours around your face and it is worth just testing the foundation in different areas. Make sure to see the tests in daylight as store lights can be deceiving”.

FINISHING UP

Concealer should be applied after foundation, as this way you only build up extra colour where it is needed. Apply concealer just after foundation has been applied so that it blends in well.

Liquids and creams will need setting powers. Apply this around the nose area, T-Zone and under the eyes to avoid creasing. “Powdering the whole face can look a bit much!” says Candice.

THE EXTRAS

“If I am doing a full face of make-up, I will use a fixer underneath to help the foundation stay on the skin all day. Fixers also work well on dry skin as they are oily based”, says Candice. “If I’m working on someone with dry or dull skin, I’d use a strobe cream. It brightens the face and looks really nice on black skin too”.

L I G H T F U L

WITH MARINE-BRIGHT TECHNOLOGY 55

MONTHLY FAVOURITES

Avene Skin Recovery Cream, Calming Formula: I’ve had oily skin since before I can remember, but this moisturiser is so calming and moisturising. It doesn’t clog my pores therefore my skin doesn’t become acne ridden. It also manages to control my oil production, keeping my skin hydrated but not slick.

Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, Skin Protector: After having flu, my skin needed some moisture, and badly.

Around my nose, lips and chin were cracked and extremely dry but my cheeks were still oily. Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream is a staple in beauty, and it miraculously saved all my dry bits and brought my skin back under control

L'Oreal Paris False Lash Flutter Mascara: False lashes often look really silly on me, and false lash mascaras usually just do not work. This mascara contains fibres which create a false lash look with volume, but still coats each lash so it works well for a day-to-day lash look.

St Tropez Gradual Tan in Light/Medium: The classic tanning brand, you can’t seem to go wrong with St Tropez.

Excellent summer skin product, avoids streaks and is idiot proof. As a burner not a tanner, this product is my life saver for creating a gradual warm look in Spring.

Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer Kit: Loved by models and make-up artists alike, Bobbi Brown’s concealers are just amazing. This Creamy Concealer Kit cuts out having two seperate products. Use the creamy left hand product to cover spots and blemishes, then dush a little of the right hand powder to set. The setting powder also works well under the eyes to stop mascara from smudging.

IT’S A MAN’S WORLD

PROFILE 2012 was a year we will never forget. For make-up artist Liam Farrerly, it was a life changing year as an assistant in Danny Boyle’s Opening Ceremony. “I was standing in the centre of the stage with 80,000 people cheering along to the music, as I watched all of my Mary Poppins descend from the roof of the stadium, and thinking to myself, look what I did!”

How long have you been a make-up artist and why did you become one?

I have been a make-up artist for just over eight years now. I never imagined or even thought about being a make-up artist. I don't think I even knew there were make-up artists that made a living from their work. I was working in Habitat and I had a regular customer who worked at MAC who said I would fit right in with her team. The rest is history.

Did you play with make-up as a child?

Well I grew up in a house of three girls, so of course I was intrigued by what make-up they had, or what they were doing , but I never really touched it...I don’t think I even dared seeing as I’m the youngest!

What bit of your job do you enjoy the most and why?

I enjoy meeting real people with real lives, they have the most interesting stories.

Making them feel amazing is such a good feeling. Plus I’m a true northerner so I could chat until the cows come home.

What is it like being a make-up artist on a shoot?

Being the make-up artist on a shoot is great, it gives me the chance to be super creative, it’s a time that I truly believe I come out of my box and surprise people with my make up artistry.

On set I would prepare the models for make up, this could be a mini facial, or priming the skin ready for make-up. I will be on standby to help throughout the shoot and not just with the make-up! Many times I’ve been asked to hold pieces of set, assist on the hair, dress models ect.

What was the most interesting photoshoot you have worked on?

If I had to pick just one so far it would have to be one that I did in an old mechanics

Hundreds of Mary Poppins floating from the sky during the Opening Ceremony

warehouse. They were literally knocking it down as we were shooting, and by the end of the day there was no building left.

What advice do you have for women who are stuck in a rut with their makeup?

One word: YouTube. It’s taking over the world! There are so many more videos now explaining how to apply your make-up than ever before. Also don’t be afraid to visit a make-up counter. It’s so much easier when you have a professional to guide you in the right direction for your best look.

Do you have a favourite brand of makeup or skin care that you use on shoots?

I have so many favourite brands it’s hard to say just one. I’d have to say MAC; it has something for everyone, loads of colours, for all skin types.

As for skincare I would have to choose Kiehls, I use all of their products when I’m working and for myself. Their Creme de Corps body cream saves my life when my models are looking a little dry and dull.

What make-up do you wear on a daily basis or on a job as a make-up artist?

Being a guy, I like to keep it minimal. That’s

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not to say I don’t wear anything, I prepare my skin well everyday with great skincare, and use a sheer to medium coverage concealer under my eyes and lightly on my cheeks. I groom my brows with a little powder or a pencil and brush over my skin with a little bronzer, lips would have a layer of lip conditioner. I like to keep it clean and fresh.

What product can you not leave the house with out?

My brow pencil! Brows are important, they shape the whole face.

See more of Liam’s work on his Instagram @liamfazza

PROFILE

This months cover girl Sasha Attwood

The model off-duty look is simple: perfection without layers of colour. But, don’t be fooled in to thinking that there’s nothing on that pretty face. We peek inside our cover girl Sasha Attwood’s make-up bag.

Words by Ellie Mathews.

“On a daily basis I don't wear that much make up as I'm busy shooting or doing castings and you have to look as natural as possible. I use Chanel Hydramax Moisturiser* as it's important to keep your face hydrated and I always have a tube of Carmex Lip Balm (£2.69, Boots) with me wherever I go. It's the best thing ever and keeps your lips in good condition! If I have any blemishes I use Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer (£18.00, John Lewis), as I think it gives good coverage.”

“On a night out or special occasions I love the smokey eye look as its really dramatic and effective so I use Chanel Black Star Eyeshadow (£23, Selfridges) as it’s really dark and sparkly and stays on all night. I love Bare Minerals Flawless Definition Volumizing Mascara in Black (£16, Debenhams) as it makes my eyelashes look really long without looking too thick and clumpy”

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“I'm obsessed with lipsticks; Chanel and MAC are my favourite so on a night out I'll wear whatever colour goes with what I'm wearing. My favourites are the Chanel Rouge Allure collection. They stay on really well throughout the night and they do some lovely colours, I love Fantasque and Passion (£25 each, Selfridges).

A recent love is MAC Rebel (£14, MAC Cosmetics). I don't normally wear dark lip colours but I love this colour and it goes with everything!

For my skin I keep it quite natural. I use Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer, Chanel Lift Lumiere Firming and Smoothing Fluid Makeup (£38, House of Fraser) as it gives maximum coverage but feels light on your face and Benefit Moonbeam Highlighter (£18.50, Benefit) as it gives you a natural glow!”

* Chanel Hydramax Moisturiser has been replaced with the Hydra Beauty Serum, £59, stocked Nationwide.

MODEL MAKE-UP

BRAND IN FOCUS

A BRAVE NEW MARKET The Double Serum (far right) is in the usual sleek packaging, but is more than just a serum. It is an anti-ageing treatment designed for all ages. For 26 year old Coral, Account Manager for Bristol, it is her favourite product from her employer, proving the importance of the younger consumer at Clarins. And bloggers the world over are in agreement. The Sunday Girl claims to love its smooth as silk priming effects, and it has received a coveted 4.0 out 5 on Make-Up Alley (a beauty reviewing website).

The Double Serum is being promoted by a young, porcelain-skinned model, who appears little more than 18 years old. The diversification is, importantly, encouraging younger women to establish a good skin care routine early on: prevention rather than cure. Using over 20 plant extracts, Double Serum has been designed from the outset with dermatological testing and to be noncomedogenic, leaving pores unclogged and able to breath, an essential for younger skins.

In line with this release, Hutchison has seen a change in the age of consumers on her counter. “Our current best sellers are the Beauty Flash Balm, and the One-Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser”, says Hutchison. “The Beauty Flash Balm targets signs of fatigue, whereas the One-Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser tackles dull looking skin. It also provides oil control for throughout the day.

Both products give youthful skin brightness and life” she explains.

Her customers are also in love with the Skin Illusion Foundation. In a bold move away from the cake-face of the last decade that was synonymous with Clarins, this new foundation aims to provide medium coverage but with a radiant finish. It is oil free and therefore works well on younger skins, without clogging the pores and causing more damage.

Exciting though this new audience may be, however, Clarins has not forgotten is prime customer. “We’ve also launched the Rouge Eclat range of lipsticks. They are long wearing and really moisturising which our mature ladies like,” claims Hutchison.

With 15 satin shades, this new Nutri-Youth Complex formula promises to be age defying and therefore pulls in the more mature lady.

“I would also say the Extra Firming Foundation sells very well for us”, says Hutchison, further proving the importance of the mature market at Clarins.

Young or old, new to the brand or a die hard fan Clarins appears to have a product for you.

Clarins is avliable online and in stores nationwide.

We know that skin care is where Clarins’ excellence lies. However, since the launch of the Double Serum in February this year, the diversity of Clarins’ audience is beginning to expand. Recent Clarins’ releases are shunning the more mature lady for the more image-conscious twenty-something.

After breaking the €1 billion barrier in 2007, Clarins is one of the biggest beauty brands in our department stores. The Beauty Case spoke to Clarins account manager for Bristol, Coral Hutchison, about the brand and the move in to the younger market.

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editors great debate

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