LES INCROYABLES

It was important for me to revert back to John Galliano’s roots and to where his fashion voyage once beganafter all, we all start somewhere! I intend to delineate his original thinking and observe how this has expanded and adapted to a consumer today. Les Incroyables was a pinnacle stage in the early years of John Galliano’s career- it was his first Central Saint Martin’s graduate collection, which gained masses of appreciation by global fashion names and was presented within the windows of Browns Fashion instantaneously.

The title ‘Les Incroyables’ referred to the youth movement of the French Revolution whereby society was segregated into groups depending on class- something which remains prominent today and underpins the theory behind the underclass sociology.

This youth group cited themselves as the Incroyables (men) and the Merveilleueses (women), arising in the 1790’s as a subculture, to create a political statement and mockery of the wealthy through exaggerated silhouettes and unconventional styling. This period in the French Revolution appreciated simple dressing, in which this generation defied societal conventions and embedded their love for fashion to evoke a rebellious act.

John Galliano proposed a historical pastiche expressing the sentiment of his own, the New Romantics (The Met, 2018). Comparing Galliano’s designs to that of the Les Incroyables, there are many similarities, from loose jackets, inside out gowns, high neck blouses, and turban headwear. Yet, I can greatly delineate where he has interposed his 80’s background too, through white dramatical makeup, oversized bows, and pinstripe additions.

I admire how Galliano utilised cheap materials and furnishing fabrics to culminate a collection which highly translates this era, especially since the Incroyables/Merveilleueses were impoverished in money so would have employed a similar, DIY method to achieve these looks. I have acknowledged from this, that creativity comes from having a vision, and that vision is attainable even if you don’t have the top supplies.

His graduate collection has a wild and unkept look about it through deconstructed styling and voluminous hair, which I personally love as it creates questioning, making one look through the copious number of layers to search for its story.

I feel this show gave a massive insight for what to expect next from John Galliano. It had his salient imagination, hints of romanticism and obvious historical components- these are elements I am intrigued to venture into more when conducting further research and analysis into him and his brands.