BACKCOUNTRY
ellis-brigham.com
EXPLORE THE
EPIC RESORTS
18 OF THE BEST FREERIDE DESTINATIONS ON THE PLANET
BEST ON TEST
OUR PICK OF THE LATEST GEAR FOR YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE
LIFE LESSONS
THE GODFATHER SHARES HIS AVALANCHE SAFETY TIPS
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BOOTS THAT FIT HAWX PRIME XTD No matter your foot shape, your skill level or where you want to ski. We have the boots that fit.
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WELCOME Winter, as they were fond of saying in a once-popular TV show, is coming. This year looks set to be a little different to most, but we’re still feeling the familiar excitement as the temperature drops. No matter what happens, we’ll be here to supply your gear needs and answer your questions with expert advice - as we have been every winter since 1933. In this season’s guide, we’re focussing on exploring the backcountry - on where to go, and what gear you need to get away from lift-accessed areas. You’ll find our list of the world’s best backcountry resorts, including the best destinations you can drive to. You’ll also find a selection of the best new backcountry skis, outerwear and accessories available this winter - new innovations mean there’s never been a better time to buy backcountry kit, so it’s small wonder it’s the fastest growing segment of the ski market. We hope this guide whets your appetite for adventure, and that you’ll keep it fuelled with regular advice and inspiration from ellis-brigham.com. See you on the hill!
CONTENTS 4 INNOVATIONS
16 KITZBÜHEL
6 BEST BACKCOUNTRY RESORTS
20 A MATTER OF LIFE & DEATH
13 DESIGNING FOR THE FUTURE
22 EPIC SCOTTISH DESCENTS
A look at the best new technology, and the biggest advances in backcountry and ski touring gear this year.
You can get lucky in any resort, but there are some that consistently deliver the goods. These are the best backcountry destinations in the world.
We go behind closed doors at the Atomic factory in the Austrian Alps, and speak to their boffin-in-chief about how the magic happens.
14 TOURING & BACKCOUNTRY KIT
The Ellis Brigham team select some of their favourite jackets, pants, packs and goggles for your next off-piste adventure.
Our hosts for this year’s photoshoot may be better known for ski racing and families, but their backcountry packs a punch too.
Bruce Tremper, the godfather of avalanche safety, shares his top tips for managing the danger, and staying alive in avalanche terrain.
PUBLISHED BY
Snow Magazine 4-5 Trull Farm Buildings Trull, Tetbury Gloucestershire GL8 8SQ 01285 841 711 snowmagazine.com
This winter promises to be a big one for Scottish skiing. A British backcountry expert reveals which epic descents should be on your radar.
SCAN FOR LOADS M0RE BACKCOUNTRY GEAR AND CONTENT... 3
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ATOMIC HAWX PRIME XTD 120 BOOTS £500 This combines the power and feel of a freeride boot with the lightness of a proper touring model. The range of motion is an impressive 54º, making ascents more comfortable; the Free/ Lock 2.0 is an easy and effective walk mode that’s solid when locked into ski position. Atomic’s Memory Fit customisable shell can be heat moulded during fitting, adding 4mm extra width. The new Mimic liner technology creates an impressive customised shape around the heel and ankles for better hold, and maximum comfort.
MARKER DUKE PT BINDINGS £500/£550 The new Duke PT hybrid freeride binding is lightweight and allows you to ascend by using an innovative Ride & Hike toe. For walking, the upper part is unlocked and removed revealing a pin system, the upper section is then stored in a backpack. For the descent the upper jaw is locked back into place and the binding becomes a high-performance alpine unit that will take on any terrain. The Inter Pivot 3 Freeride Heel of the Duke 16 combines power transmission, energy absorption and vertical heel elasticity.
8 INNOVATIONS FOR WINTER 20/21 The new gear that will change the game this season
BLACK DIAMOND GUIDE BT BEACON £360
DPS 100 RP PAGODA TOUR SKIS £1050
An industry-leading avalanche transceiver, the Guide BT has cutting-edge features for long-range and multiple burial searches. With a Bluetooth connection, you can easily manage settings, software updates and battery optimisation from your smartphone, via the PIEPS mobile app.
DPS’ new dual wood and carbon construction makes the 100 RP a lightweight, super playful backcountry ski that delivers precision and energy. The unique rocker profile guarantees float and effortless handling whatever the conditions or terrain.
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SALOMON SHIFT 10 BINDINGS £400
SALOMON SHIFT PRO 130 AT BOOTS £540
The Shift represents the next generation of freeride capability, blending the efficiency of the best uphill bindings with the power and precision of leading alpine models. The toe piece has the advantages of a pin binding, allowing for convenient hiking, but it can easily be shifted to become a downhill binding. A true high-performance freeride option with certified DIN alpine heel and toes. This moves between the Alpine and Tour categories like nothing else out there.
The Shift Pro 130 is for skiers who mix up riding lifts with hiking for better terrain. Coreframe ensures the boot has the power and control for skiing bigger lines; Surelock is simple and effective, providing 40º of motion for walking and the necessary strength to compete with alpine models. The Custom Shell HD and the pre-formed, seamless 3D Custom Fit Race liner are both heat moulded to ensure a personalised shape, ensuring the best comfort and foot hold. A Grilamid cuff keeps the weight down and the flex consistent.
GARMIN 6 PRO SOLAR £740 Garmin’s first watch to offer solar charging, the fēnix 6 Pro Solar’s 1.4” Power Glass lens uses sunlight to extend battery life for off-grid adventures. Made for those who push past limits and redefine expectation, its features include enhanced wrist heart rate, outdoor navigation sensors, performance metrics and more.
“Combines the power of a freeride boot with the lightness of a touring model” BLACK DIAMOND JETFORCE PRO 25L £1020 The JetForce Pro 25 litre avalanche airbag pack combines a sleek, modular design with the latest version of Black Diamond’s innovative JetForce Technology. Smaller, lighter and with Bluetooth connectivity, it enables easy software and system updates via a smartphone.
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THE WORLD’S BEST BACKCOUNTRY RESORTS The best places on the planet to get as far off-piste as possible
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ot all mountains are created equal. While you can find great off-piste in a lot of places if conditions are right, there are a handful of ski resorts around the world that always seem to deliver the goods. Some of the names listed here are legendary, etched into skiers’ collective consciousness by the starring roles they’ve played in ski films down the years. Others are less well-known. But whether it’s the steepness of the terrain, the depth of the snow, the vibe of the village, or a combination of all three, these resorts offer something truly special for serious powder hounds. Now go fetch!
LA GRAVE, FRANCE
La Grave is like a ski resort stripped back to its bare essentials. A collection of unpretentious chalets, bars and shops clustered around a single lift, the town is a no-frills kind of place. It’s all about the skiing here. The cable car whisks you straight up a ludicrously-steep face, over seracs, crevasses and endless, pow-filled couloirs. From the top, there are any number of epic high-alpine lines, most offering around 2,000m of descent in a single run. ‘Grave’ translates to ‘serious’ in English, which feels about right. This place is no joke.
Getting some in La Grave
ESSENTIALGEAR ATOMIC BACKLAND 98 W £500
SALOMON MTN EXPLORE 95 £540
A supremely versatile backcountry ski, light enough for the ascent and delivering grip and power on the way down. The HRZN Tech tip ensures smooth control in even the most cut-up conditions.
Combining exceptional downhill performance with climbing efficiency, it’s easy to see why this ski is so popular. It’s not the lightest of touring skis but it’s hard to beat going downhill. 6
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Corbet’s Couloir is a must for anyone heading to Jackson Hiole
SILVERTON, COLORADO
Imagine an old western mining town plucked straight from a John Wayne movie, and plonked in the middle of some of the most epic terrain anywhere in North America. That’s basically Silverton. The mountains in this southern stretch of the Colorado Rockies, known as the San Juans, are steeper than elsewhere in the state, and with a single chairlift as the only access point, this is a ski-tourer’s paradise. Groups must ski with guides, who manage the terrain carefully, ensuring that whenever you visit, you’re basically guaranteed fresh tracks.
ANDERMATT, SWITZERLAND
Despite its proximity to Zurich, Andermatt remains something of a hidden gem, even among Swiss skiers. Partly, this has to do with the terrain on offer, which is definitely bettersuited to freeriders than weekend warriors up from the city. The iconic Gemsstock peak looms over the village, its steep-sided flanks offering a whole plethora of powdery lines. In December 2018, a new £20 million lift connected the resort to the neighbouring Sedrun-Oberalp area, adding a whole new dimension to the domain’s backcountry.
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING
Jackson Hole, as the much-photographed sign on the iconic red tram lift has it, “is like nothing you have skied before”. Higher and steeper than much of the Rocky Mountains, the Grand Teton range also seems to attract consistent snowfall. Up top, there’s terrain that rivals much of Europe, including the in-bounds Corbet’s Couloir, a must for any backcountry bucket-list. Lower down, the loosely-spaced pine forests create the kind of pillow lines made famous by snowboarder Travis Rice and film-maker Jimmy Chin, both of whom call Jackson home.
K2 TALKBACK 88 W £475
BLACK CROWS CAMOX FREEBIRD £600
The flagship of K2’s touring line-up. Carbon stringers increase dampening and boost torsional rigidity, while the all-terrain rocker improves. handling. The 88mm waist is perfect for quick turns.
Light enough for multi-day tours and shredding as well as any mid 90s waist ski, the much-loved Camox Freebird perfectly balances performance, comfortable handling and versatility. 7
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Ski touring above Vent, Austria.
VERBIER, SWITZERLAND
Verbier is vast, with almost 100 lifts, 400km of pistes, and huge amounts of easilyaccessible backcountry terrain. Size isn’t everything, of course, but it does mean there’s a huge amount of variety here: from technical tree runs to screaminglyfast, open powder faces. The resort is also rightly famous for its steeps - the finale of the Freeride World Tour is held here on the frankly insane Bec des Rosses face. It’s easily the most famous backcountry descent in Switzerland, but not for the faint-hearted.
NISEKO, JAPAN
If you’ve not heard of the legendary levels of powder that cake Hokkaido each winter, then you might be reading the wrong magazine. 14 metres in Niseko is just an average season, and with the snow falling near-constantly, you’re basically guaranteed fresh tracks. The terrain here tends to be less steep than in other legendary backcountry resorts, and it’s mostly below the treeline, but there’s so much to ride - and more in the neighbouring resorts of Moiwa and Rusutsu too, both of which are well worth a day trip.
Verbier is famously pricey, but the terrain is more than worth it.
VENT, AUSTRIA
Vent, a small village at the end of one arm of Austria’s Ötztal valley, might look like small fry compared to the other globally-recognisable names on this list - but therein lies its secret. The resort only has two chairlifts and a handful of pistes, but if you’re prepared to strap your skins on, you can access a huge array of uncrowded ski-touring itineraries from here, both day trips and hut-to-hut excursions. Book more than three days on the lift pass, and you get access to the whole Ötztal area too, including Sölden, Obergurgl and Hochgurgl.
ESSENTIALGEAR ROXA R3W 105 TI IR GW £450
K2 MINDBENDER ALLIANCE £395
An interesting option which mixes alpine performance with freeride capability. The 3-piece Cabrio design ensures easy entry and exit and the overall package is amazing value.
A versatile boot with an easy flex and a medium fit. The Powerlock Spyne walk mechanism creates a 50º range of motion for hiking, and provides a powerful connection when skiing. 8
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DRIVETIME
4 OF THE BEST RESORTS TO DRIVE TO LA CLUSAZ, FRANCE
Distance from Calais: 860km / 7h52m This pretty little village is not hugely high, topping out at 2,600m, but the modern lift system offers access to 125km of trails and some world-class off-piste, including its famous gullies. None other than Candide Thovex grew up here - need we say more?
LES 7 LAUX, FRANCE
Distance from Calais: 913km / 7h54m A lesser-known gem, Les 7 Laux is further south than the other resorts listed here, but its proximity to Grenoble, and the motorway, means it’s one of the quickest to get to. The lifts only take you to 2,400m, but open up a huge amount of un-patrolled backcountry terrain especially if you’re prepared to hike or tour.
LES GETS, FRANCE
Distance from Calais: 865km / 7h58m The first French resort you get to on the main road into Morzine, Les Gets offers access to the enormous Portes du Soleil area. There’s plenty to enjoy here, including several descents on the Mont Chery side which you may well have to yourself after a fresh dump. .
OBERSTDORF, GERMANY
Distance from Dunkirk: 928km / 9h2m If you want to try something a bit different take the ferry to Dunkirk, cut across Belgium, and blast down the autobahns to Oberstdorf. The resort itself is fairly small, but the dramatic Nebelhornbahn cable car opens up access to some challenging backcountry terrain.
Niseko is a must for any serious skier’s bucket list.
NORDICA STRIDER PRO 130 £520
SCARPA MAESTRALE XT £600
The Strider 130 allows you to fully explore the mountain, whether you’re using lifts or bootpacking. Exceptional comfort is matched by the performance including a 46° range of motion to aid ascents.
The Maestrale XT is built for tackling the steepest lines and fastest descents. Packed with features, it blends comfort on the climbs with total performance on the way down. 9
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Revelstoke, British Columbia. Stoked?
CHAMONIX, FRANCE
Arguably the most famous ski resort in the world, Chamonix has been the place to go for backcountry skiing - and in fact, skiing full-stop - since the first-ever lift was installed here in the 1920s. Steep terrain, and legendary descents mean that it’s a must for any self-respecting powder lover at some point, but its incredible reputation has a downside. The crowds can be killer, and especially on a powder day, you’ll have to be up before the crack of dawn to find fresh tracks.
PASSO DEL TONALE, ITALY
Another well-kept secret, Passo del Tonale in Italy’s Trentino region offers the same kind of lift-accessible, high altitude terrain as the other alpine resorts on these pages, with just a fraction of the crowds. There are several classic off-piste itineraries down from the top of the Presena Glacier at 3,016 metres, or you can stick your skins on and head off into the Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta, taking advantage of the refugio network for a multiday tour. Of course, this being Italy, the food served in these huts is second to none, too.
Amirsoy, Uzbekistan - a fresh new resort.
REVELSTOKE, BRITISH COLUMBIA
No list of the world’s best backcountry resorts would be complete without an entry from British Columbia. We could have opted for Whistler, which is undoubtedly worldclass, but we reckon you’re more likely to find the mythical BC powder (and you’ll have to work less hard to get it) a few hours to the east, in Revelstoke. Located off a stretch of road known as the Powder Highway, this small mining town has undergone a lot of redevelopment in the past ten years, but it still maintains its original charm.
ESSENTIALGEAR ATOMIC BACKLAND 100 £500
VOLKL MANTRA V-WERKS £900
The Backland 100 blurs the lines of freeride and backcountry, proving that you can have a lightweight ski that packs a punch. It’s stable and locks into a carve nicely on hard snow.
An all condition lightweight backcountry ski. The revolutionary design uses a 3D ridge that tapers sharply towards the edges, giving the ski tip to tail power transmission and reducing weight. 10
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OUT THERE
4 MORE INTREPID DESTINATIONS KARAKOL, KYRGYZSTAN
The Soviet Union’s answer to Chamonix, this small mountain town has welcomed generations of Russian climbers and ski mountaineers. The three-lift resort to the south of town isn’t worth more than a day or two of your time. But bring your skins for the mountains around it, which top out at 400m higher than Mont Blanc.
AMIRSOY, UZBEKISTAN
Built from scratch in world-record time, Amirsoy is a modern ski resort with Frenchmade lifts in the heart of Central Asia’s Tien Shan mountains. The snow in this range, which extends into Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, rivals Japan’s, and Amirsoy offers the easiest way to access it. The tour access is great and heli-skiing is cheap too.
SVANETI, GEORGIA
Georgia, on the eastern shores of the Black Sea, is nearly all mountains. There are no fewer than seven ski resorts in the country, including the 15-lift operation at Gudauri, which is relatively large by regional standards. If you want to make the most of the high Caucasus, however, we’d recommend a skitouring trip to Svaneti, further west.
POPOVA SAPKA, NORTH MACEDONIA
Popova Sapka may not merit a mention in its own right, but it’s home to Europe’s oldest catskiing operation. Eskimo Cat Ski takes groups of guests outside the bounds of the resort and into forests where bears, wolves and lynx still roam. The slopes are steep, the powder is plentiful and the local firewater is good and strong. What more could you want?
BLIZZARD ZERO G 095 £620
SCOTT SUPERGUIDE 95 £525
One of the most versatile touring skis you will find. The long radius improves stability, the construction ensures it feels responsive and precise, and the weight is low for a ski of this width.
Scott’s updated Superguide 95 uses a carbon aramid construction and elliptical profile to create a high performing touring ski that is light on the way up and powerful on the way down. 11
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Honoring the mountains. Honing self-reliance. Teaching the young about both. Breaking trail when we can. Fighting for winter because we must, and celebrating in between. Because the tracks we set define the legacy we leave.
Moving slow, and low, across the Bonney Glacier under convective skies. Unknown skiers. Rogers Pass, Glacier National Park, British Columbia. RYAN CREARY Š 2020 Patagonia, Inc.
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DESIGNING FOR THE FUTURE INSIDE THE ATOMIC SKI FACTORY What happens behind closed doors at the world’s biggest ski manufacturers? Where do new design ideas come from? The head of Atomic’s ski division reveals all.
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ackcountry gear is the fastest-growing segment of the skiing market, and the technology is coming on in leaps and bounds every year. But where do all these new ideas come from? How are they tested, and who decides what goes to market? To answer this and more, Snow Magazine’s editor Tristan Kennedy spoke to Herbert Buchsteiner, the man in charge of the Research and Development (R&D) and Product Management teams at Atomic. Home to freeskiers like Jossi Wells, racers like Mikaela Shiffrin, and the newest addition to the GB Freestyle team, Gus Kenworthy, the brand is renowned for its cutting edge performance across all types of skiing. Amer Sports, Atomic’s parent company, spends a whopping 9.5 percent of its budget on R&D every year on average, and Buchsteiner is in charge of keeping the company ahead of the curve. Tristan Kennedy: Where are you based, and where are Atomic skis actually made? Herbert Buchsteiner: Our facility is in Altenmarkt, right in the heart of the Alps here. If I look outside my office, I can see three different ski areas, and quite a few mountains. We produce around 450,000 pairs of skis here each winter, and the rest are produced at our facility in Bulgaria - roughly 600,000 pairs. Of course, we also have our prototype
department here, where we can try and build any idea we have, and we have the ability to go on snow and test it the next day. TK: Where do the ideas come from? HB: Often a conversation with the Atomic athletes will kick off an idea but I also have dedicated backcountry guys in my team, who are really doing the sports every minute they can. To do the job well, you need to be a nerd to
“We usually apply for about two or three new patents every year” a certain extent - you need to be crazy about materials and products - but you also need to live and breathe the sport. I’ve been here [at Atomic] for 23 years, but the guy who’s running the R&D department, Georg Klausner, has been here 32 years. It’s those guys who come with a lot of the ideas. TK: What was the last new prototype that got your team really excited? HB: We’ve got this kind of 3D shovel shape
which we introduced on the tip area, so it’s bent up on the left and right side of the tip area. It gives the ski more flotation, almost like a surfboard. It also makes it more forgiving to ski, because the tip doesn’t hook up so easily, especially in difficult snow conditions. We call that HRZN Tech - that was the last big innovation that really set us apart from the competition. But there’s lots - we usually apply for about two to three patents every year. TK: Do you ever try completely crazy things, just to see if they work? HB: Of course! We always try things. For example, we tried to build a ski which is super, super, super thin. On average, a ski has a thickness of 1.5 to 1.7cm in the middle, and we were going all the way down to a 5mm really thin tip-to-tail. Of course, it was super lightweight, but it didn’t deliver performance that we thought it needed to. TK: How are you working to make production more eco-friendly? HB: With materials, we don’t want to greenwash, so we try to think of the ski’s carbon footprint as a whole. Every press here in the factory is heated with wood chips so we don’t use gas. The excess heat which occurs the press gets heated to 130 degrees, roughly - that gets used to heat our offices.
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THE BEST BACKCOUNTRY KIT FOR 2020/21 The Ellis Brigham team’s pick of this season’s gear
OAKLEY FLIGHT TRACKER XM £140
SALOMON MOUNTAIN LAB £145 Designed for exploring the backcountry with ski touring in mind, the MTN Lab meets alpine safety standard EN 12492, and the EPS 4D construction provides increased shock absorption. Powerful venting keeps the head cool while hiking and the washable Merino wool liner manages moisture effectively. The Custom Dial size system is simple to adjust ensuring a snug fit and a summer liner is also included.
The Flight Tracker XM is set to become an Oakley classic, with lots of tech to enhance your time in the mountains. The full-rim, low profile frame creates a modern look with an increased field of view. The shape fits well with helmets and the silicone backed strap keeps them firmly in place, it’s also compatible with prescription eyewear. The lens uses Oakley’s tried and tested Prizm technology for razor-sharp clarity and increased depth perception. Designed to fit larger faces and give maximum vision.
BLACK DIAMOND JETFORCE PRO 25 £1020 The evolution of Black Diamond’s JetForce Technology, the JetForce Pro avalanche airbag system is smaller, lighter, and features Bluetooth capabilities for easy updates. Paired with a sleek modular pack design, the 25-litre attachment can be unzipped and replaced with one of BD’s JetForce Pro Booster packs for backcountry versatility.
NORRØNA LOFOTEN GTX PRO BIB PANTS £570
THE NORTH FACE BRIGANDINE FUTURELIGHT™ JACKET £720 The TNF team questioned every aspect of traditional mountain shell design and the end-result is a fine-tuned and featurepacked piece of precision backcountry engineering. FUTURELIGHT™ fabric sets the new standard for active breathability with totally waterproof protection, while the 3D stretch fit, FuseForm minimal seam construction and a practical long length all set you up for epic days hiking and riding the steep and deep.
Built-tough for long days in deep conditions, these cult backcountry bib pants continue to lead the way, with the highest levels of protection, comfort, and durability . Deep ¾ leg vents allow easy access to boots and layers. Four zipped pockets offer lots of storage options and the zip-off stretch bib gives the best snow seal and waist comfort. 3-layer GORE-TEX Pro Most Rugged delivers robust waterproof and breathable performance.
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PATAGONIA POWDER BOWL JACKET£379.99 Patagonia’s classic GORE-TEX all-mountain jacket delivers for lift-accessed backcountry and charging all over the resort. Solid, dependable 2-layer GORETEX with fully recycled outer fabric keeps out the worst mountain weather while offering great breathability. The body-mapped engineered mesh and taffeta lining controls your microclimate and allows intelligent layering.
OSPREY SOELDEN PRO 32 £950 The Soelden Pro 32 is an avalanche airbag backpack offering best-in-class fit and function. Featuring an Alpride E1 electronic airbag system, supercapacitor technology powers the fully electronic turbine-based fan. Lightweight and rechargeable, with no Li-ion battery required, the Alpride E1 system makes travel much easier.
ARC’TERYX SABRE LT JACKET £540 The stealthy Sabre LT is the perfect combination of performance and comfort. This is a versatile, progressively designed big mountain jacket built for foul weather and fine-tuned to freeride touring. N80p 3L GORE-TEX fabric with GORE C-KNIT™ backer technology is quiet, soft and comfortable for efficient movement through frigid winter weather while the longer length gives extra protection from the elements on deep storm days.
SEE THE FULL BACKCOUNTRY COLLECTION
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ARC’TERYX SABRE LT BIB PANTS£430 These versatile big mountain bib pants deliver the goods on long tours and steep powder drops. N80p 3L GORE-TEX fabric with GORE C-KNIT™ backer technology is quiet and comfortable with total weather protection and enhanced breathability. A low stretch bib design helps keep out snow. The TouringCuff simplifies boot walk-mode management and articulated e3D patterning elevates freedom of movement.
NORRØNA LOFOTEN GTX PRO JACKET £620 The iconic Lofoten jacket is a fantastically engineered piece of backcountry kit. Epitomising Norrøna’s “loaded minimalism” ethos, this jacket has everything you’ll need for the best freeride experience… and nothing more. Big pockets, deep vents, maximum breathability and long term durable waterproof protection. Enough said!
DRAGON RVX £190 Dragon’s top of the line goggle has all their latest tech in a modern frame shape. The new Swiftlock 2.0 lens changing system is quick and easy to use with a discrete lever on the side to lock the lens securely in place. The frame is Over the Glasses compatible and they come with two premium injected lenses using Dragon’s Lumalens technology, so you’re set whatever the conditions.
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THE PROVING GROUND: KITZBÜHEL Where to go off-piste in one of Austria’s most famous resorts
K
itzbühel is most famous as the site of the legendary Hahnenkammrennen - a.k.a. the big daddy of all downhill races - but it’s also something of a paradise for freeskiers, with a tradition stretching back more than 120 years. Franz Reisch, arguably Kitzbühel’s first freerider, skied down the Kitzbüheler Horn back in 1893 - and the resort has been attracting thrillseeking powderhounds ever since.
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SKIING SINCE 1893 1893
1st skiing descent by Franz Reisch at the Kitzbüheler Horn
1929
World’s first cable car to serve the sports industry
1958
The 10 millionth guest transported up the slopes
1966
Birth of the Alpine Ski World Cup
1974
Hansi Hinterseer wins the Alpine Slalom at Ganslernhang
2015
Kitzbühel is named World’s Best Ski Resort
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WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL? TRULY TESTING TOURS In a word: access. Arranged over five separate mountains, Kitzbühel has more lifts than you can shake a stick at (well, 57) offering an incredible amount of lift-access terrain. The ski area is one of the biggest in Austria, offering more than enough to exhaust even the most iron of legs during a week here. From high alpine terrain, to cliff bands, to tree runs further down, Kitzbühel’s lift-accessed terrain has it all - and that’s before we even start talking about the touring. There’s a dedicated ski touring area at the top of the Bichalm - all of it avalanche controlled and patrolled, making it the perfect place for first-time tourers to practise, or more experienced skiers to get their turns in after a big new dump. A lift takes you up, and there’s a snow cat which seats nine, to carry you the last few hundred metres to the 1,888m summit of the Stuckkogel. From there (if you’ll excuse the terrible pun) you won’t be stuck for options - there’s a whole plethora of lines snaking down from the summit in all directions.
On the neighbouring 2,000m high Kitzbühel Horn peak, the resort has created what they call a naturschnee paradies - a natural snow paradise - which more than lives up to its billing. Again, it’s un-pisted but patrolled, allowing you to put in your skin tracks and pick your lines with that extra bit of reassurance. Above the village of Kitzbühel itself, the Asten piste is kept open for ski tourers late into the evening, allowing you to tackle the Hahnenkammrennen course in the evening too, should you still have the legs for it. Be warned though, the Streif run on which the races have been run since 1931 hasn’t earned its fearsome reputation for nothing. This course doesn’t so much separate the men from the boys as the heroes from the superheroes. It was here that Franz Klammer, arguably the greatest downhill ski racer ever, cemented his reputation by winning a record four times. It was here that Hermann Maier earned his reputation as ‘The Herminator’, and the Frenchman Jean-Claude Killy proved
that he was truly worthy of all his titles. It’s widely accepted that a win on the Streif is worth more to ski racers than Olympic gold, but even making it down is an achievement. The list of career-ending crashes here is almost as famous as the list of winners. If you’re doing it properly (i.e. skiing to a race standard) you’ll be reaching speeds of up to 90mph down the two-mile run, heading down 40-degree gradients, flying over 60m jumps and tackling sketchy off-camber turns. Obviously, everyone can take it at their own pace, but the key sections, such as the Mausefalle (mousetrap), Steilhang (steep slope) and Hausbergkante (local mountain edge), are classified as ‘extremely difficult ski runs’, and are often very icy. If you’ve got the minerals to tackle it, head up piste number 20, which is kept open for tourers until 10pm each day. Usually, by this time, the piste bashers are out, working hard to prepare the slopes for the next day. But they’re well used to keeping an eye out for ski tourers - and giving them a gladiatorial salute as they head off to slay on the beast.
KITZBÜHEL IN NUMBERS
Resort height: 760m Vertical drop: 1,200m Ski area: 233km Highest lift: 2,000m Total lifts: 57 Pistes: 96 Parks: 2 Closest airport: Innsbruck (1hr 20) Munich (2hrs)
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KITZBÜHEL
LET’S TALK ABOUT THE TOWN This is one of the most stylish ski resorts anywhere in the world, with a centuries-old medieval quarter filled with swanky boutiques, swish hotels, and sophisticated patrons. Kitzbühel is also truly blessed when it comes to eating out. Restaurants range from fine dining (with the Neuwirt neuwirtkitz.com at the top of the tree) to cheap and cheerful. Some 13 restaurants with 21 Gault & Millau accolades between them are enough to make any gourmet heart beat a little faster. If you’re looking for something a little more down-to-earth, try one of the 60 or so mountain huts or the traditional inns down in town. When it comes to evening activities, there’s plenty to do once the slopes shut: the Aquarena pools for a dip and you can try curling, tobogganing, even watch some snow polo. Good rail links mean a day trip to Salzburg or Innsbruck are even on the cards, if you fancy exploring Austria a little further.
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LIFE LESSONS
The godfather of avalanche safety shares ten tips that will help keep you safe in the backcountry.
B
ruce Tremper, the former Director of the Utah Avalanche Centre, quite literally wrote the book on avalanche safety - his bestselling Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain is basically the Bible for serious skiers and snowboarders wanting to venture into the backcountry. Now in its third edition, it’s packed full of essential tips to help skiers assess risk. Of course, Bruce himself would be the first to point out that there’s no substitute for training, or first-hand experience. His first advice would always be to take an avalanche course, and only venture into the backcountry with someone who knows what they’re doing - like a guide. But reading, listening, and watching everything you can on the subject also helps. So we called Bruce up at home in Park City, and asked him to share a few nuggets that sometimes get overlooked. Here’s what the Godfather of avalanche safety had to say.
1. YOUR RESCUE GEAR WON’T PROTECT YOU
It goes without saying that you need to have it, know how to use it, and practise with it regularly. But an avalanche airbag, shovel, probe and a beacon will only save your life about half the time. Statistically, about 50 percent of the time having that gear can save the life of somebody who would otherwise have died. That’s a pretty good number, but it’s not a great number. If you want to stack the odds further in your favour it’s all about risk assessment.
2. CHOOSE YOUR CREW CAREFULLY
Talk with all your partners in advance. What’s their ability level? When do they need to be back? Once you’re at the trailhead it’s almost too late. If someone’s got their brother-in-law from Florida who’s not that experienced, but then you have Joe Gnarly-powder-pig, who’s going to be pushing because they want to get footage for their Instagram, that’s not a good mix.
3. READ THE REPORTS, AND LEARN THE AREA
Do your homework. The first thing to do is consult the avalanche forecast, but you have to have a mental picture of what the terrain looks like. The direction the slope faces is very important. Leave yourself several options too you don’t want to be in a situation where you can either do something dangerous or go home.
4. BEWARE THE WINDS OF CHANGE
Snow, like people, doesn’t like rapid change, and the thing that changes snow faster than anything is wind. Wind can deposit snow ten times faster than snow falling out of the sky. It also grinds it up, so when it’s deposited, it’s denser, heavier and stiffer than the snow below, which means it automatically makes a slab. A lot of people focus on temperature when it comes to judging changing conditions, but that’s lower down the list. It’s wind, the amount of snowfall, and then temperature.
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5. AVOID THE 39-DEGREE DANGERZONE
7. CUT THE SLOPE, NOT THE QUEUE
9. LATE BIRD GETS THE WORM
6. CONSIDER THE CONSEQUENCES
8. COMMUNICATE CAREFULLY
10. DON’T BE AFRAID TO WALK AWAY
I look for two things when I’m assessing terrain - steepness, and consequences. Only three percent of human-triggered avalanches occur on slopes of less than 30 degrees, and once you get up above 50 degrees, there are very few avalanches, because the snow tends to slough off. The bullseye for risk, according to a Swiss study, is 39 degrees. You can cut your risk in half by going from 39 to 34 degrees, and in half again by going from 34 degrees down to 31 degrees.
What’s going to happen if it slides? Where are you going to end up? The kind of slope that’s dangerous is if there are obstacles on the way down, like trees, or what we call a ‘terrain trap’, like a gulley. Is the avalanche going to dump you over a cliff? Or into a crevasse field? Or send you bouncing over rocks? That’s what we mean by consequences.
If you think something might slide, don’t just jump into it and start linking turns. Put a ‘slope cut’ across it at a 45 degree angle, and build your speed up. Then if the slope does break, in theory, your momentum should carry you off that moving slab. The number one rule is you only ever want to expose one person to the hazard at a time - that applies to skinning up as well as skiing down. Distance is your friend when it comes to avalanches.
Communication is everything. Pros will talk to each other like climbers do - the equivalent of “off belay”, “up rope” and so on. You should be skiing from safer area to safer area (there’s no such thing as a totally safe area), and you always need to have an escape route preplanned. Be thinking, “OK, if this does break, where am I going to go?”
MAMMUT RIDE REMOVABLE AIRBAG 3.0 £580
Most people like to get out really early, or be dawn patrollers. I like to go out around noon, because then I don’t have to break trail as much, but mostly, because other people have triggered the avalanches before I get there. The world is full of ‘volunteer stability testers’ who are more than willing to get up there and test those slopes before you do. I’ll get to the top and eat my lunch or whatever. I like to go last.
If you’re not happy about anything, never be afraid to say no. The mountains will still be there if you come back another day. Personally, I’m risk averse. My rule of thumb is I don’t get on any slope steeper than 30 degrees. Even experts get it wrong a lot, and I want to die an old man, I don’t want to die in an avalanche.
The third edition of Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain by Bruce Tremper, is available now from Mountaineers Books.
Ideal for ski touring and freeriding, this features the smaller, lighter Removable Airbag System 3.0 and offers improved carrying comfort. With a 28-litre capacity and practical feature set, it’s well equipped for day trips.
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6 EPIC SCOTTISH BACKCOUNTRY DESCENTS With overseas travel uncertain this year, ski-touring in Scotland looks more appealing than ever. Gavin Carruthers of British Backcountry picks his six favourite spots. 22
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BEN LAWERS RANGE: MEALL CORRANAICH
CAIRNGORMS: THE CAIRNGORM TRILOGY
CARN MOR DEARG: THE BOWLS
BRAERIACH: THE ESCALATOR
AONACH MOR: AN CHUL-CHOIRE
BEN NEVIS: NORTH FACE
The hills around Ben Lawers offer great ski touring potential, and are also home to some high-level car parks, which can make the effort just a little easier. The west facing bowl of Meall Corranich is superb, with plentiful mellow lines. A descent of 500m from summit to road is possible here. Mid-season, when the light lasts longer and snow cover is more sure, is the best time for it. The joy of skiing in the Ben Lawers range is you have slopes that you can ski on all aspects within a two-hour skin from the car. Meall Nan Tarmachan and Beinn Glass offer great alternatives.
The highest of the series of east-facing bowls on the long Carn Mor Dearg ridge offers epic descents in a stunning location. After a steep start, the bowl has an inviting gradient which encourages fast flowing turns. This slope is often best in spring snow conditions, so get up here early while the bowl is still catching the best of the sun. Before dropping in, take a moment to look around at your surroundings - from the dramatic cliffs of the north face of Ben Nevis on one side to the multiple gully lines of Aonach Mor’s west face on the other. Does it get much better?
A hidden gem, partly due to the fact you pass several other worthy descents enroute from the summit of Aonach Mor. Hidden away in the col between Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag, this snow-sure gully is always worth the trip. Most of the descent is tucked in beneath the imposing cliffs of Aonach Beag, sheltering it from the wind and allowing it to catch snow coming in from the west. Depths up to 20cm are not uncommon here, and whenever you come you’re likely to find a decent covering, as it holds the snow so well.
The holy grail of gully skiing, a cult classic and bestseller. Later in the season is usually the best time to get this triple, but be prepared for the snow to be changeable as the aspects vary. You may end up with heavy snow, light powder and ice on the same day! Diagonal gully can be accessed via a short skin from the ski area, and the beauty of skiing down to a beach cannot be overstated. Castlegates gully is one of the most atmospheric routes in the Cairngorms. After a long slog out of Loch A’an you can decide if you have the legs for part three: Aladdin’s.
A bike and ski adventure for most of us, as it’s a long way from anything and on the limit of what can be done in a day. Having said that, some years it is possible to walk-in or even ski tour all the way. Otherwise, cycle into Loch Eanaich then find the snow line that takes you up the upper mountain. Getting this far and skiing back is a great day out, but if you have the skills, time and kit, then Coire Bhrochain is a wonderful place to visit. Central Buttress Gully & West Gully are two sublime descents, each with their own challenges. Leave time though - it’s a long way back to civilisation.
The biggest of them all, and a significant step up from the others. Certainly accessible, as you can view the North face with a 1.5 - 2 hour hike from the car park. Steep descents, exposed terrain, and slopes littered with rockfall or avalanche debris - this is not for the fainthearted. But if you fancy a challenge and you enjoy a style of skiing more akin to the steeps of Chamonix, you’ll love it. Number four gully is the most forgiving angle of the numbered gullies - though it’s not easy by any means. Tower gully is a major achievement, and number 5 gulley is something else again!
For further inspiration check out the off-piste guide books written by Kenny Biggins or the steepscotland.info website by Scott Muir. British Backcountry run ski touring courses in Scotland developing your skills for the backcountry and lead trips to many of the descents mentioned above. Find out more at: british-backcountry.com
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