DARK SKIES
THE UK’S BEST STARGAZING SPOTS
CLIMBING BLIND:
JESSE DUFTON INTERVIEW
PADDLE & CAMP:
SCOTLAND BY SUP
HIKING HAVENS:
BRITAIN’S BEST BOTHIES
HIKING CLOTHING
ICE AXE EVOLUTION
CLIMBING SHOES
4-SEASON BOOTS
TALON/TEMPEST
FOR THE HIKE
Whether you’re bagging peaks or bikepacking, the Talon/Tempest Series is the perfect carry solution. This lightweight pack features a breathable, close-to-body AirScape™ backpanel and continuous-wrap harness and hipbelt that moves with you. From top-loaders to lumbar packs and everything in between, the Talon/Tempest Series accommodates the needs of hikers, bikers and more.
EXPLORE WELCOME TO
Welcome to the autumn/winter issue of Explore, where we bid farewell to the long days of summer and transcend two seasons to showcase a mix of advice, inspiration, and knowledge.
In this issue, our ambassador Alex Staniforth shares his stories of community building and the difference it has made (page 6). We delve into the archives and memory banks of one of our most experienced staff members to bring you a brief history of Ice Climbing, and we highlight some of the latest gear that has caught our eye for autumn and beyond. We look forward to the clocks going back to experience the magnificence of our Dark Sky Reserves (page 20). We interview Montane athlete Jesse Dufton (page 12), clip into a via ferrata in the Dolomites, and reveal six of our favourite bothies (page 46). Plus our staff explore Loch Shiel by paddleboard, and our resident running expert Ross gets you prepared for your next Ultra.
Autumn awaits, go and explore!
ellis-brigham.com
For more inspirational content and ideas follow us on Facebook and Instagram. We’d love to hear about your adventures, share them with us using the tag #livebreatheoutdoors
04. DIARY: WHAT’S ON
Your essential events calendar for autumn and winter.
06. SPOTLIGHT
Mind Over Mountains uses nature to tackle the mental health crisis.
08. TECH TALK
From Alpine faces to Scottish gullies: the history of the ice axe.
12. BLIND AMBITION
Jesse Dufton on climbing in the face of adversity.
18. SCIENCE FRICTION
Hit the face with this season’s best climbing shoes.
20. DARK SKIES
Embrace the long nights at the UK’s best stargazing spots.
Proud to support
27. HEAD TORCHES
The latest illumination technology to light up the way.
28. LAYER UP
Protective shells, insulators, and base layers for all-season use.
32. TRAVERSING HISTORY
A hut-to-hut adventure in the shadow of Italy’s climbing greats.
40. ALPINE HIGHS
All the gear you need for an adventure in the mountains.
42. BUYER’S GUIDE
Planning to buy some walking boots? Read this first!
44. WALKING BOOTS
The finest four-season footwear on the market.
46. BREATHTAKING BOTHIES
Humble yet awe-inspiring accommodation across the UK.
54. TRAVELLING LIGHT
These mid-size backpacks are ideal for an overnight expedition.
56. SCOTLAND BY SUP
An unforgettable journey down the length of Loch Shiel.
62. CONQUER THE ULTRA
Ready to test your limits? Here’s how to train for a big trail run.
65. RUNNING ESSENTIALS
From shoes to nutrition, our top picks will get you to the finish.
66. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Rachel Dark shares her favourite South East getaways.
DARK SKY RESERVES NIGHT NAVIGATION EVENTS
We are firm believers that adventures shouldn’t stop when the sun sets. This autumn, in partnership with top head torch manufacturer Petzl, we are hosting nighttime events in some of the UK’s Dark Sky Reserves. As well as the opportunity to enjoy the clearest night skies found in the UK, the evenings will also focus on learning the essential skills required for night navigation.
These events are for those who already have some existing navigation skills and are looking to progress. For some inspiration and to read more about the UK’s Dark Sky Reserves, see our feature on page 20.
Glenmore Lodge: 18 November
Eryri (Snowdonia): 25 November
Tickets are £30 per person ellis-brigham.com/events
DIARY
EVENTS
Ortovox O -Piste Awareness Tour
Covent Garden: 30/31 October
St Paul’s: 1/2 November
Manchester: 13/14 November
Glasgow: 20/21 November
Keen to venture into the wilds on your skis and want to be fully prepared for any situation? Learn the essentials of backcountry safety with the experts from Henry’s Avalanche Talks, in association with Ortovox.
GORE-TEX Gear Tour: Love it for Longer
Aviemore: 30 September
Fort William: 1 October
The GORE-TEX Gear Tour is your chance to get your much loved piece of GORE-TEX cleaned, re-proofed or repaired by our experts in the Fort William and Aviemore stores.
Warren Smith Technique Lab Tour
Kensington: 10 October
Manchester: 24 October
The Warren Smith Technique Lab Tour is an opportunity for skiers to assess their technique from biomechanics and equipment to their own strength and durability, giving you a head start on the winter season before you have even set foot on the slopes.
European Outdoor Film Tour (EOFT)
January 2024 Nationwide gb.eoft.eu
The EOFT is the largest outdoor film festival in Europe, featuring a collection of short films and documentaries that push the limits of extreme sports from skiing and mountaineering to mountain biking and kayaking. See website for full listings.
Ski Confidence Coaching Course
Covent Garden: 14 November
Manchester: 15 November
This course is aimed at those who feel their fear is holding them back on the slopes. Learn how to change your mindset from anxious to calm and develop your confidence on the slopes with Louise Pode and New Generation Ski School.
For more information, up-to-date listings and to book your place go to ellis-brigham.com/events
for the love of climbing.
shops nationwide | ellis-brigham.com
MIND OVER MOUNTAINS
Nature itself is the best physician, as Hippocrates said. Ed Blomfield speaks to the co-founder of a charity applying this age old wisdom to the UK’s mental health crisis.
Ellis Brigham ambassador Alex Staniforth understands better than most the transformative power of nature. As a child he battled epilepsy and a stammer, as well as bullying at school that led to crippling anxiety and an eating disorder. Yet one hillwalk in the Lake District at 14-years-old changed everything. “That was the spark,” he says. “That was where the dream came from.”
Getting outdoors, being present and “having a goal” as Alex puts it, helped encourage his younger self out of his shell. “We’ll get out of bed in the morning when there’s a deadline,” he explains, “when you’ve committed to yourself and the world that you’re going to do something.”
The mountains offer endless such challenges, and Alex’s newfound passion led him on a remarkable journey that has included two attempts on Everest, aged just 18 and 19. Both trips were cut short amid wider disasters; the first when an avalanche killed 16 Sherpas and closed down the mountain, the second when Alex was caught in the infamous avalanche that swept through basecamp in 2015 following an earthquake. Surviving these experiences led him to question his purpose and ultimately resolve to make a difference closer to home. Embarking on a fundraising challenge called Climb the UK, Alex cycled, walked, ran and kayaked approximately 5,000 miles around the UK in just 72 days. And it was during this trip that he made another profound realisation: it had taken him longer to get an appointment for his problems as a young man than to complete this epic trip. “I always felt fortunate because I had the outdoors,” he says. “It’s what I call my ‘natural health service’. And by the time I got help, I’d already kind of got myself back on my feet using the outdoors.
Fuelled by this insight, Alex and his friend Chris Spray founded Mind Over Mountains, a charity that provides guided walks and retreats as a means of healing and support. The organisation hosts multi-night adventures to beauty spots throughout England and Wales, as well as day walks focused on the North, taking people from urban areas out into the countryside. Participants are accompanied by outdoor experts and mental health professionals, including neuro-linguistic programming coaches and mindfulness counsellors, ensuring a holistic approach to wellness. “Chris and I were blown away by the impact that combination had,” recalls Alex of the first MOM event. “It was so powerful, getting people away in a hostel with no phone signal, no Wi-Fi and just properly connecting.”
Mind Over Mountains welcomes individuals from all walks of life and their staff are experienced in dealing with a variety of mental health issues, such as grief, domestic abuse and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). They work regularly with veterans and the emergency services, and offer bursaries to those in need. Increasingly, people are signposted to them by the NHS.
So what is it about the outdoors that makes it so conducive to mental well-being? According to Alex, “It’s the ability to strip away everything – the worries, the doubts, the fears – and just have that time in the moment.” Depression, he explains, is often focused on the past, whereas anxiety is the future. By contrast,
Photo Daniel“Mind Over Mountains provide guided walks and retreats as a means of healing and support”MOM co-founder Alex Staniforth
walking encourages you to stay present and fosters a sense of calm. “You’re having to slow down to the pace; you’re having to watch your feet.” Exercising in nature also provides a unique combination of endorphins, sunlight and green space that’s almost magic in its ability to reduce stress.
Talking, too, is made easier outside of a formal setting, and engaging in conversations during a walk is an essential component of Mind Over Mountains’ mental health support. “Otherwise, we internalise our problems, we only see one perspective on them,” he explains. “Talking may not necessarily solve the situation, but just by [sharing our problems] we’re dropping some of that weight. It protects our health to know that we’re not alone.”
Although MOM has only been registered as a charity since 2020, the pandemic accelerated Britain’s mental health crisis and demand for its services has grown steadily ever since. With eight trustees and over 50 freelance staff now offering their time, Alex hopes to see it become the leading provider of nature-based health interventions in the UK. “Just to reach everyone who needs us and be that natural health service. That’s the vision. It’s a pretty big mission, but together I think we can really do it.”
For more information visit mindovermountains.org.uk
THE NEW ICE AGE TECH TALK
Creative Director Dave Whitlow began working in our Liverpool store as a Saturday lad in 1975. Since then he’s witnessed first hand the astonishing evolution of ice climbing – and the equipment that’s made it possible.
How did the earliest ice axes you sold work?
The adze [shovel] would cut steps. The spike element – the pick – on the other side was really an arresting tool. If you slipped you'd put your weight over the pick and that would break your fall. The length and the spike on the bottom was essentially a walking stick. It was a development of the very earliest 'alpenstocks', which were long wooden poles with a spike on the end, used by the first people to climb Mont Blanc and the other big alpine peaks.
With an ice axe like the classic Stubai Aschenbrenner you could probably climb ice of up to about 60 degrees, and cut steps into it. But it became really difficult, and as climbers started to want to climb steeper ice, the tools had to develop to facilitate that.
What's the idea of curved picks?
When you swing it and stick it in the ice, it stays there. It grips. You can pull on it and it actually extracts quite easily as well. Alongside crampons, it enabled people to use what they call a front pointing technique. Prior to that they would be cutting steps and crabbing sideways. Now you're literally facing the ice with four points of contact; ice axe, ice axe, step, step. It was a radical advance, and stepcutting became a thing of the past.
Which brands pioneered this movement?
The Chouinard Zero made a big noise. [Patagonia founder] Yvon Chouinard actually visited Fort William in the 70s and climbed with local climbers like Hamish MacInnes, and the influence went both ways. They were at the cutting edge of what you could do with winter climbing, constantly questioning what were really quite primitive tools in those days. Chouinard's approach was to curve the existing tools that were out there and ultimately come up with his own ice axe, but Hamish MacInnes had a different route: he developed an all-metal tool called the Terrordactyl. It was much much shorter, 40-45cm long, and had a dramatically inclined straight pick. Both tools had their advantages and disadvantages. The Terrordactyl was particularly good at Scottish mixed climbing, where you're in very confined areas –often iced-up gullies – and the terrain includes a lot of frozen turf and shallow placements. The downside was it rapped your knuckles quite
“WITH THE TERRORDACTYL, BLOODY HANDS BECAME PART OF THE GAME"
badly because there wasn't much natural clearance; bloody hands became part of the game. Chouinard's more elegantly curved pick excelled on big open alpine faces. But they both inspired where the whole story of ice tools went from there.
How did the materials evolve?
Wood was heavy but had the advantage of absorbing vibrations really well, and for a while Chouinard experimented with bamboo, which was very light, but the downside of all the wooden shafts was that they reached a critical point where they would break under a climber's weight, and if they were used for a belay anchor point, they could potentially fail.
Eventually the whole equation swung over to the metal camp because it was safer. Some of the early models were solid metal and prohibitively heavy, but after that they became tubular, and these days they use aircraft grade aluminium or lightweight alloys.
What was the next big innovation?
The big game changer was an ice axe developed by French company Simond called the 'Chacal' – the Jackal. It was the first time the pick was curved in the opposite direction. With this reverse banana shape you
could climb really steep ice like you could with the Terrordactyl, but it was a much more elegant tool to use in the hand. Ice tools had always been quite brutal instruments – chopping and hammering – but this thing didn't need as much force; it started to make ice climbing more delicate and finessed, and that in turn enabled people to climb steeper and more marginal conditions, where the ice is thinner.
Did no one patent this technology?
Seemingly not, since pretty much all technical ice tools have that reverse pick design. I don't know if it was an altruistic thing, but everyone in those days got on in the climbing world – as they still do. Taking advantage of patenting an idea and restricting development just wasn't on, I suppose.
Talk us through a cutting edge design like the Petzl Nomic. The next major development from the Chacal was to curve the shaft of the ice axe as well, which perfected the swing. Then people on the steepest climbs wanted to go leashless. Previously a leash would go from the ice axe head to your wrist, but as people started to switch hand to hand and reach higher, the curved shaft started to develop a recessed handle – like the one you see on the Nomic – and there's no [built-in] leash. It allows more reach, more elegant placement and a lot of penetration without as much brute force. You'll combine this with a safety leash, which is a semi-elasticated bungee you can clip from your harness to the bottom of the ice tool rather than the head.
Like the Chacal, the Nomic is modular, so you can adapt the pick to different genres of ice climbing. You can add different weights, too, which alters its balance. On the back of the head you have the last remnants of the hammer, so you can use pegs if required, and on the bottom is a pared down version of the original spike, for when you're walking.
So, where do we go from here?
It's hard to say. Right now, people are climbing pretty much at the cutting edge of what's possible. I guess the only way to improve is to go lighter, perhaps more carbon fibre solutions. It's only 70 years since the Aschenbrenner, but where they're at now with these modern tools is a million miles away, and the terrain they're climbing is so steep and radical.
The next development is probably in the physique and mental strength of the climber, and their ability to push it out there further. Only when the technology isn't sufficient to match the aspirations of that climber – today's Chouinard or MacInnes – will they know where to take it. But the great thing with these modern tools is that they do elevate a run-of-the-mill type climber to something a little bit better; they allow people to climb steeper and harder terrain a lot easier, and make the whole experience a lot more pleasant.
“WHERE THEY'RE AT NOW WITH THESE MODERN TOOLS IS A MILLION MILES AWAY; THE TERRAIN THEY'RE CLIMBING IS SO STEEP AND RADICAL”Modern ice tools have a reverse curve and minimal adze or hammer features. The Nomic's ergonomic grip reduces fatigue and keeps the hand away from the ice. Hamish MacInnes and his radical Terrordactyl.
GEAR UP ICE AXES
PETZL NOMIC
The Nomic sets the standard for technical ice climbing. A leashless axe designed for precision placement on the steepest ice, its modular design lets you customise the hand rest positions and pick weights.
BLACK DIAMOND VIPER ADZE & HAMMER
Real all-rounders, the Vipers will perform on mountain routes and single pitch climbs alike. Lightweight and easy to swing, the pick's open angle makes placement a breeze, while the FlickLock pommel creates a secondary grip.
GRIVEL AIR TECH EVO ADZE & HAMMER
Comfortable as walking axes, the Air Tech Evos have enough curve to climb steeper ground too. Features include a strong yet light hot-forged head, plunge-friendly shaft and spike, and two leash attachment points.
PETZL RIDE
A superlight ski touring tool, the Ride is highly portable but still very competent. The 45cm length suits the first requirement, while the tapered, toothed pick allows good penetration and solid placements if needed.
BLACK DIAMOND RAVEN
Sometimes old-school is best, and the Raven's classic design continues to please mountaineers looking for a sleek piolet. Its stainless-steel head and straight shaft offer a comfortable hold on winter walks and climbs.
GRIVEL G ZERO
Lightweight in design but strong where it needs to be, the G Zero is a dependable walking axe. Offering excellent value, Grivel include a leash and removable blade cover for improved comfort when holding the top.
Lofoten, Norway, 2022
CLIMBING
BLIND AMBITION
Jesse Dufton refuses to let the loss of his eyesight end his climbing dreams.
It’s June 2019, and climber Jesse Dufton is on his way to the summit of the Old Man of Hoy – an imposing sea stack off the Orkney coast. As he searches for his next hold, film-maker Alistair Lee’s camera picks up one of his off-hand remarks between grunts of exertion: “This is when I could really do with being able to see…”
It’s a moment that encapsulates two things about Jesse, neither of which you’d expect from someone who makes a habit of clinging on to exposed rock faces for hours at a time. There’s his desert-dry sense of humour, even (or perhaps especially) in moments of adversity. Then, of course, there’s the small matter of him being almost completely blind.
Jesse has rod-cone dystrophy, a genetic disorder that has impaired his eyesight since birth. It’s estimated that, at their best, his eyes were operating at about 20% of ‘normal’ vision. “I could just about read a book,” he explains, speaking from his home in Loughborough, “but I’d have to be really, really peering at it. And I’d probably have to use a massive magnifying glass. So, yeah – pretty crap eyesight, to be honest!”
Even before he’d been diagnosed, Jesse was already well acquainted with the world of climbing. He completed his first rock climb with his dad, a keen mountaineer, at just two years old. By 11, he had led his first route. While his sight continued to deteriorate – today, reading for him is impossible, with only a vague perception of light remaining – his climbing career went from strength to strength. His lead of the Old Man of Hoy, as documented in Lee’s film Climbing Blind , is only one of his many remarkable achievements. He’s also been a fixture in the British para climbing team for six years, and a World Championship bronze medal winner.
PHASE LITE JACKET
Much of what he’s managed to accomplish blind would be well beyond the scope of many a sighted climber. So, what’s his secret? He’s determined, certainly – fitness and day-job permitting, he’ll rarely miss an opportunity to climb, and trains as often as six times a week – but even that would never be enough on its own.
“The problem for people with a visual impairment, and especially those with a severe impairment like mine, is the fact that you need a guide to be able to climb,” he explains. “That’s a one-on-one relationship, so it’s a huge investment of time from someone. I’m incredibly lucky, because my climbing partner and my sight guide is my wife [Molly, who he first met at his university’s climbing club]. She’s able to belay at the same time as sight-guiding.” Without that – without her – any serious attempt at a climbing career would never have got off the ground.
Jesse began climbing with Molly while completing his PhD at the University of Bath. “That’s when my eyesight dropped off a cliff,” he remembers, “and she stepped in
to fill that gap.” At indoor facilities, this would involve guiding Jesse towards holds using a laser pointer. As his vision deteriorated further, they switched to using a verbal code that gives him an idea of what to aim for next. It was enough to get him over what he calls his “phobia” of climbing indoors.
Perhaps surprisingly, Jesse has always been more comfortable outdoors, despite the additional challenges that entails for a blind climber. Sometimes, for example, just reaching the starting point of a remote route can be as challenging as the climb itself. The assistance he gets from Molly while ascending doesn’t always translate to real rock faces, either; while she can still guide him to nearby holds (using radio headsets over longer distances), even that’s not an option on routes, including the one on Hoy, where he disappears from her view. In those moments it’s just him, his remaining senses, and a whole lot of unknowns.
“You don’t know when you’re next going to get a piece of gear in. So, when the opportunity arises, you’re definitely putting one in there, because you don’t know if you’re going into a five-, ten-metre unprotected section. You also have to climb slowly, because you can’t look up, spot a massive jug in five moves’ time and just blast on to it, knowing you’re going to get a rest.”
It might be a slog, but it’s certainly got him places. There’s Hoy, of course, which received blanket media coverage and even an entry in the Guinness Book of Records. In 2020 he re-teamed with Lee to document his ascent of Yorkshire’s E2-graded Forked Lightning Crack, and ticked off Internationale, an E3 route at Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye, in 2021.
“I’M INCREDIBLY LUCKY, BECAUSE MY CLIMBING PARTNER AND SIGHT GUIDE IS MY WIFE”Jesse’s blind ascent of The Old Man of Hoy dropped jaws across the world. Photo Alastair Lee
Earlier this year, he also became the first blind climber to establish a new multi-pitch rock climb, in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas mountains. With that comes the responsibility of naming the route, for which he went with ‘Eye Disappear’. “I think it’s always good to try and stick to the theme of the crag,” he explains. “For Eye Disappear the theme was ‘Heavy Rock’, so the link to Metallica [whose song ‘I Disappear’ had a video featuring Tom Cruise’s rock-climbing sequence from Mission Impossible 2] is why I chose that name.”
You don’t have to be a pun connoisseur to notice that there’s something else going on in that title. A look at his blog posts, interviews and videos over the years confirms that he’s never far away from a deadpan quip, often at his own expense. Indeed, Climbing Blind boasts more laughs than you might expect – from a fellow paraclimber performing a drive-by chalking on his forehead at a training session, to Molly asking if he can spot a seal in the water during a tricky section on Hoy (“Not the time, Moll!” comes his reply).
Earlier, while the pair are negotiating a rocky path, she warns him of a particularly large stone up ahead. “Found it!” he shouts as he trips over it, and narrowly avoids hitting the deck. His eyes might not work anymore, but there’s clearly nothing wrong with his funny bone. Is it important to him to see the funny side – if you can call it that – in his situation? “Being blind has plenty of slapstick moments!” he says. “There’s no shortage of comedy. Take the funny – because yeah, if you didn’t laugh, you’d cry!”
It’s impossible to know how many others would share Jesse’s philosophical outlook in the same circumstances. Perhaps it is, much like his visual impairment, just something he was born with – but it is at least partly informed by the challenges he sets himself. If you’re prepared to spend over seven hours scaling a column of Orcadian sandstone, often with only your sense of touch to go on, keeping an even keel elsewhere in life will become that much easier. “All my colleagues say I’m really chilled out, and I’m like, ‘Well, obviously this meeting is less stressful than putting your life in danger on a trad
route…’” says Jesse. “Some people get really worked up about giving presentations, and stuff like that. Climbing definitely helps to put that into perspective. If you mess up a presentation, you will be fine. If you mess up this route, you might die…”
While Jesse doesn’t currently see a path to becoming a full-time climber, there’s an ever-growing audience that’s waiting to see what he’ll turn his attention to next. He has “lots of medium-term goals” but if there’s another Hoyesque milestone on his agenda, he isn’t letting on. Even the more immediate entries on that to-do list, including a chance to improve on his World Championship bronze, are in doubt after a “microwave-sized” chunk of rock dislodged and landed on his arm during a climb at Range West (“My wrist didn’t really like that large lump of stone landing on it – unsurprisingly.”).
When he does return to full fitness, the crags will be waiting, with many career highlights surely still to come. Not that we are likely to hear about them all: “I think about Hoy, Forked Lightning, I think about Internationale, routes I did where I broke a grade barrier,” he says when asked about his most memorable climbing moments to date. “But equally up there, there’s a route called Kinvig in Pembroke that really sticks in my mind. It was E1, the gear wasn’t great. It’s all in the foot sequence, which when you can’t see where you’re putting [your feet], makes it really hard. I thought I was going to drop every single move. I think that’s probably the hardest I’ve ever had to fight –and I didn’t drop it. It’s not a particularly photogenic route, plenty of people have never heard of it. But for me, it has that extra significance because of the experience that I had on it. It’s right up there.”
So even if none of his future achievements set the world alight in the way that the image of him sat atop the Old Man of Hoy did, that’s unlikely to matter to Jesse; a world of grit to explore, and Molly to share it with –doubtlessly with plenty of laughs along the way – will be enough. In all the ways that really count, the view from where he’s standing looks good.
“IF YOU MESS UP A PRESENTATION, YOU WILL BE FINE. IF YOU MESS UP THIS ROUTE, YOU MIGHT DIE…”Chillin’ in Chile Photo Molly Dufton
RANGE
SCIENCE FRICTION
HIGH TECH CLIMBING SHOES
LA SPORTIVA MEN’S SOLUTION COMP
PRICE: £170
The Solution Comp is designed for performance, a fact that’s evident not just in the downturned shape, but also the extended rubber on the toe to give maximum traction when toe hooking. It’s all part of La Sportiva’s P3 System, which also incorporates a lock harness to keep your foot securely in the shoe.
BOREAL MEN’S CRUX
PRICE: £110
The Crux targets the improving climber, offering great traction and slight downturn without compromising comfort. The wrap rand and torsion band minimise stretching while helping to improve toe strength and endurance on micro holds. A Boreal Zenith Pro 2.0 outsole offers loads of grip, while the dual strap fastening allows easy adjustments on longer climbs.
TENAYA MASAI
PRICE: £128
With those extensive laces, the Tenaya Masai feels super secure and can be easily adjusted to suit your foot type and the route at hand. The simple but effective cotton liner and multi-layer Stretchtex insole provide a no-hassle fit and extended comfort. Vibram’s proven XS Grip outsole also delivers superb smearing performance.
LA SPORTIVA WOMEN’S TARANTULACE
PRICE: £85
Made with a breathable, unlined suede upper, the Tarantulace moulds to your foot with use, for a super-comfortable feel. Ideal for those new to the sport or wanting comfort on multi-pitch routes, the quick-release lacing system enables custom tensioning without being a faff to take off. Its neutral shape is suitable for all foot types, while the FriXion Black 4mm rubber will keep you sure-footed.
SCARPA MEN’S VAPOUR V
PRICE: £155
Technical but comfortable, the Vapour V has something for everyone, with excellent smearing abilities as well as edge-holding potential. The Bi-Tension active randing system enhances tension but allows flex and feel, while there’s a full-length Talyn 1mm insert designed to spread force evenly across the whole foot, reducing hotspots.
SCARPA WOMEN’S INSTINCT VS PRICE:
£165
The Instinct VS brings a bouldering mindset to whatever vertical challenge you face, with a Bi-Tension active randing system that supercharges precision on tiny edges. The feeling is enhanced by the sticky Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber which wraps the heel too, giving great traction for heel hooks.
The night sky brings a whole new sense of perspective to historic ruins like those of Carreg Cennen Castle in Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons).
FOCUS ON
DARK SKY RESERVES
As light pollution soars and our skies get brighter, Sam Haddad seeks out some protected corners of the UK that still offer fantastic stargazing.
Whether you’re spotting the Plough for the first time, enjoying the W-shaped Cassiopeia constellation or fortunate enough to see the hazy white band of the Milky Way arching overhead, a night sky carpeted in twinkling stars is an awe-inspiring sight.
Our ancestors didn’t need to create specially protected spots to enjoy the spectacle, they simply looked up. But today, skyglow – the brightness of a night sky due to light pollution from streetlights, shopfronts, car parks and countless other human sources – is increasingly thwarting even the most casual of stargazers.
A citizen science study reported in the journal Science found that skyglow had increased by 7-10% in Europe and North America between 2011-22. But as our dark skies diminish, efforts are underway to preserve them. In 2007, Mont Mégantic in Canada was designated
“THERE ARE NOW 21 DARK SKY RESERVES AROUND THE WORLD, SEVEN OF WHICH ARE IN THE UK”
the world’s first International Dark Sky Reserve to protect the area’s night skies for “scientific, natural, educational, cultural heritage and/or public enjoyment”.
There are now 21 Dark Sky Reserves around the world, seven of which – including Eryri (Snowdonia), Exmoor, the North Yorkshire Moors, and the South Downs – are in the UK. Meanwhile, Northumberland National Park and the Elan Valley in Wales are two of four Dark Sky Parks (Dark Sky Reserves have dark core zones surrounded by populated peripheries, whereas Dark Sky Parks are natural conservation spaces).
Their status is awarded by the International Dark Sky Association (IDA), the world’s foremost authority on light pollution, based in Tucson, Arizona. Applicants must prove the exceptional quality of their starry nights and nocturnal environment, as well as strong community support – including the take up of dark skyfriendly lighting and educational outreach activities.
Neill Sanders is a keen amateur astronomer who founded Go Stargazing in 2016, a not-for-profit website that showcases stargazing events up and down the
country. He’s reluctant to pick a favourite of the UK’s dark sky spots but – if pushed – he would choose the Elan Valley in Wales.
“It has huge reservoirs and Victorian dams,” he explains. “It’s a wonderful place to walk by day, and then at night to see starry skies above these amazing dams [is just] brilliant for photography.”
His key tip before you make any trip is to check the phase of the moon. “If you go to a dark sky site when there is a bright moon in the sky it’s not going to be dark,” he says, adding that the best observing season is once the clocks have gone back in October until they spring forward again in March – providing a great excuse to get out and into nature during the winter months.
You don’t need an expensive telescope, though Sanders advises downloading one of the many mobile stargazing apps, which are cheap and generally reliable. This way you can hold your phone up to the sky and know which stars and constellations you’re seeing. “Even the most remote National Parks tend to have phone signal these days,” he says. He also recommends
the free desktop software Stellarium, which lets you put in the date and location of where you’re going to be and previews what’s in the sky so you can plan in advance.
That said, don’t worry too much about identifying constellations early on in your stargazing journey. “Just look up and enjoy it!” says Sanders. “Then if you want to learn more, pick out the bright stars, learn a handful of them and you can work your way up to learning 10 or 12 constellations.”
If you want to see shooting stars, which, Sanders explains, are actually tiny grains of dust that disintegrate into heat and light energy when they come into the atmosphere, they happen all year round, but you stand a bigger chance of seeing one during a meteor shower.
“Look out for the Geminids Meteor Shower at around 2am on Friday 15th December,” he says. “There’s a new moon so the skies will be dark and there could be 80 meteors per hour.”
The UK’s Dark Sky Reserves run educational outreach festivals and events, as do local astronomy societies (there’s even a group that meets in Regent’s Park, London) and observatories. Sanders has noticed a big surge in the popularity of stargazing since the pandemic. “When I first started posting about events seven years ago, there were perhaps 200 across the UK,” he says, “but now it’s more like 6,000.”
For Sanders, getting the public excited about stargazing is a good starting point for having conversations about light pollution. “Where I live in Newcastle, you can see a couple of hundred stars from the city centre,” he explains, “but 30 miles out into the Northumberland Dark Sky Park you can see 2,500 just with the naked eye. That’s why these regions are so important.”
Light creep from towns and cities can be visible for miles around, and homes, industry and farms using the wrong lighting is a big problem. “A farmer might put up a new barn with a couple of bright LED lights angled at 45 degrees. That will illuminate not just the barn but the fields and skies around – and you only need a couple of those to create a light dome.”
Along with educating the public to limit outdoor light use and point lights downward, Sanders advocates a change in government policy and tighter planning rules around lighting. There are various good reasons – beyond skywatching – to limit light pollution, not least its impact on wildlife – especially bats, bugs, and migratory birds. Our own health can also be negatively affected, since bright skies at night disrupt the body’s circadian rhythm.
But mostly, he admits, he’s all about the stargazing: “I just love encouraging people to get away from their screens and to gaze up at the night sky.”
THE UK’S DARK SKY RESERVES
Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), Wales
As home to some of the highest quality night skies in the UK, the Brecon Beacons are a great place to see The Milky Way.
Eryri (Snowdonia), Wales
The forest-ringed lake at Llyn Geirionydd is an atmospheric stargazing spot.
Cranborne Chase, England
King Alfred’s Tower is a top stargazing spot within this AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty).
Exmoor National Park, England
The South West’s famous moorland includes a two-mile Dark Sky discovery walking trail.
Moore’s Reserve, England
The closest Dark Sky Reserve to London sits in the South Downs National Park.
North Yorkshire Moors, England
The entire village of Hawnby switched to dark sky-friendly lighting to support astro tourism in this area.
Yorkshire Dales, England
The Northern Lights are occasionally visible here when activity and the conditions are right.
For more info visit gostargazing.co.uk & darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk
“OUR ANCESTORS DIDN’T NEED TO CREATE SPECIALLY PROTECTED SPOTS TO ENJOY THE SPECTACLE –THEY SIMPLY LOOKED UP”
IKOCORE
Ultra-lightweightandversatile,therechargeableIKOCOREheadlamp combinesmultipletechnologiestooffer500lumensofbrightnessatonly 79grams.
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LIGHT THE WAY
ULTIMATE HEAD TORCHES
BLACK DIAMOND DISTANCE 1500
PRICE: £180 MAX LUMENS: 1,500
The clue is in the name, and with a ludicrous 1,500 lumens on tap, the Distance lights up the whole path. Made for endurance challenges over complex terrain, the Comfort Cradle headband ensures it stays put. Its interchangeable, rechargeable battery pack lasts 8 hours at 300 lumens and can be swapped out one-handed.
PETZL SWIFT RL
PRICE: £115
MAX LUMENS: 1,100
An exceptional multisport performer, the small but mighty Swift RL casts 1100 lumens yet weighs only 100 grams. Enhanced by Reactive Lighting technology, it analyses the ambient light and automatically adjusts the brightness to your needs. Extra details include a red light with continuous and strobe modes and a USB-C rechargeable battery.
PETZL ACTIK CORE
PRICE: £72
MAX LUMENS: 600
A no-nonsense design from Petzl, the Actik Core boasts three white lighting levels, two beam patterns, and a red light. Delivering versatile outdoor performance, it comes with a microUSB rechargeable battery but also can run on three AAA batteries for even more flexibility when you need it.
PETZL TIKKINA
PRICE: £24
MAX LUMENS: 300
A fantastic generalpurpose head torch from the specialists at Petzl, the Tikkina is lightweight, runs off three AAA batteries, and has a splashproof IPX4 rating. It’s easy to use, too, with a single button to cycle through the various modes. The max brightness of 300 lumens means it’s no slouch either!
BLACK DIAMOND DEPLOY 325
PRICE: £55 MAX LUMENS: 325
Black Diamond’s Deploy 325 has been designed for runners. It has a continuous white beam for reliable illumination of the path ahead, and you can offset terrain and gradient changes at the push of a button. The adjustable headband is comfortable, stable and includes reflective threads for 360° visibility.
BLACK DIAMOND SPOT 400
PRICE: £45 MAX LUMENS: 400
One for the all-season, all-weather enthusiasts, the Spot has a fully waterproof IPX8-rated case. Easy to operate, Black Diamond’s PowerTap technology allows instant transitions between full and dimmed power. White and red lighting with multiple modes ensure outdoor versatility.
LAYERING UP
MEN’S ALL-SEASON CLOTHING
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT MAKALU GORE-TEX JACKET
PRICE: £300
A mountain classic, the enduring appeal of the Makalu lies not just in the proven design and robust build quality but also in the details. Its climbing feature set includes a helmet compatible hood, harness compatible chest pocket, and two-way front zip for easy access to your belay loop. Now with bluesign approved GORETEX and a PFC-free water-repellent finish, this is a dependable mountain companion in any weather.
RAB CIRRUS VEST
PRICE: £125
An insulated vest makes for an easy way to boost warmth without adding excess weight or bulk to your layering system. Filled with Cirrus HL recycled synthetic insulation, this one maintains performance even if it gets wet. Super light – thanks to the Pertex Quantum outer – and equipped with the essentials, the Cirrus makes a superb all-season layer.
ARC’TERYX BETA LT GORE-TEX JACKET
PRICE: £400
It’s not often that lightweight and fully featured are both applicable, but the Beta LT delivers on both counts. Deceptively clean lines coupled with vast attention to detail have always marked out the Canadian brand, and this jacket is no exception. Specs-wise, a GORE-TEX 3-layer membrane, helmet compatible StormHood, WaterTight zips and pit zips keep hikers comfortable and protected.
RAB ELECTRON PRO JACKET
PRICE: £280
When the temperatures plummet, you’ll want the Electron Pro along for the adventure. A Pertex Quantum Pro outer prevents windchill, while 800 fill Responsible Down Standard goose down with a water-resistant Nikwax treatment offers reassuring warmth even in damp conditions. Both the zip and lining are made from recycled materials too.
MONTANE ANTI-FREEZE LITE HOODY
PRICE: £200
A technical and minimalist insulated mid layer, the Anti-Freeze Lite is packed with 750+ fill Responsible Down Standard down with a HyperDRY PFC-free hydrophobic finish for maximum warmth at a minimum weight. A Pertex Quantum Eco outer continues the lightweight theme and is helpfully windproof too. An under-the-helmet hood finishes off a package that’ll keep you toasty in all conditions.
HAGLÖFS L.I.M MID MULTI HOODY
PRICE: £110
The kind of mid layer you’ll reach for time and time again, the L.I.M Mid Multi offers a body-mapped, slimline design that’ll layer neatly but also looks the part on its own. Constructed from a semi-recycled polyester that’s bluesign approved, the high-collared hood offers warmth in fluctuating conditions, and the zipped chest pocket is handy for keeping valuables safe.
THE NORTH FACE 100 GLACIER FULL ZIP
PRICE: £75
A full-zip, year-round fleece, the Glacier will become an outdoor wardrobe staple thanks to the lofted microfleece structure that breathes as well as insulates. Perfect as a mid layer in colder climes, or a solo layer for the in-between seasons, the zipped hand pockets, mid-height collar and straightforward elastic bound hems all add utility without weight or extra faff.
ICEBREAKER 260 ZONE LONG SLEEVE CREW
PRICE: £110
You’ll never regret investing in a quality base layer, and the 260 Winter Zone Crew ticks all the boxes. Constructed from three different merino wool blends to optimise warmth and wicking performance, the flatlock seams avoid chafing, while the thumb loops and drop tail hem amp up the comfort levels. Strategically placed merino mesh enhances ventilation as you build up a sweat.
LAYERING UP
WOMEN’S ALL-SEASON CLOTHING
RAB MICROLIGHT ALPINE JACKET
PRICE: £210
Another classic from Rab, the Microlight is an outdoor all-rounder that can stow into its pocket and then unpack into a fantastically warm layer in seconds. A recycled Pertex Quantum outer protects the 700 fill recycled down within, which Rab enhanced with a water-repellent treatment. Zoned micro and nano stitch-through baffles create a perfect fit and keep weight and bulk in check.
ARC’TERYX ATOM VEST
PRICE: £180
There’s a reason the Atom Vest is so popular. Super-packable, lightweight, and weather-resistant, it’s a low-bulk response to windchill in a huge array of situations. The Coreloft Compact insulation laughs in the face of dampness, and the stretch fleece side panels combine with the fleecelined collar to increase breathability and comfort.
MONTANE PHASE LITE GORE-TEX JACKET
PRICE: £325
Lightweight yet protective, the Phase Lite weighs a mere 255 grams yet has the essential features you need for fast-paced hiking. The GORE-TEX Active Shell offers top-class breathability, with enough robustness to fend off the elements when required. A rollaway hood adds flexibility when you’re really moving, enhanced with a stiffened peak for when the weather turns horizontal.
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT TRANGO DOWN JACKET
PRICE: £300
The Trango is no lightweight, designed as it is for remote, high-altitude expeditions where only the best quality will do. A massive 237g of 700 fill Codex 100% traceable Pure Down packs out a belay jacket that’ll deliver warmth when you need it most. The chest pockets and zipped hand pockets provide plenty of space for snacks, hand warming, and general hunkering down.
RAB LATOK ALPINE GORE-TEX JACKET
PRICE: £500
The Rab Latok is a longstanding winterclassic hardshell, and this women’s specific fit continues that tradition. A robust but breathable 3-layer GORE-TEX Pro build sets the scene, coupled with an excellent helmet compatible TriPoint hood and harnesscompatible pockets to deliver exactly the kind of protection you want on your side in a real hoolie.
THE NORTH FACE SUMMIT FUTUREFLEECE HOODY
PRICE: £135
Constructed from Futurefleece, the Summit Hoody features hollow-core yarns in a fullloop construction to trap air astonishingly well. Balancing warmth, breathability, and weight with great success, you can increase heat using the low-profile hood. Comfort is assured with underarm gussets for maximum movement, and there are no shoulder seams to get in the way of a pack.
MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT LUMIKO ZIP-T
PRICE: £70
Sometimes simple is best, and this half zip, long sleeve stretch fleece does exactly what you want it to; it’s a vital and useful layer in nearly every outdoor situation. Fast drying, low-bulk and easily vented, the Lumiko works brilliantly under a waterproof. Made in a Fair Wear audited facility, the fabric is also bluesign approved and PFC-free. A zipped chest pocket adds extra utility too.
ICEBREAKER 200 OASIS LONG SLEEVE CREW
PRICE: £85
The fact is that merino wool makes for a top-notch base layer, being warm, breathable, low bulk and soft against the skin. This 200gm jersey from icebreaker contains 100% merino and packs in a few subtle but useful extras. These include a drop tail hem, offset shoulder seams and underarm gussets to increase comfort and flexibility without adding complication.
TRAVERSING HISTORY: HOW MOUNTAINEERING HELPED SHAPE ITALY
On a four-day, hut-to-hut hiking trip, Tristan Kennedy digs into the fascinating history of the Brenta Dolomites.
It was the mist that made it particularly terrifying. Climbing down the 500 metre-high cliff face from the Bocchetta dei Due Denti (“the jaw with two teeth”) would have been scary in any conditions. But when we reached this narrow pass flanked by two fanglike pinnacles of rock, clouds were swirling, and a thick fog had closed in. By halfway down the via ferrata Ettore Castiglioni, I couldn’t see more than two rusty rungs of the ladder beneath my boots. Below that, the steps simply disappeared, like a stairway leading down into the underworld. Somewhere above my head, my sister-in-law Olya began muttering to herself. “It’s OK Shanti, don’t be scared” she repeated – a mantra to keep herself calm more than anything. Concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other, it was all I could do to stop myself uttering a prayer of my own.
Vertical descents like this are not uncommon among the jagged peaks of the Dolomiti di Brenta.
The westernmost of the nine mountain groups which make up the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Brenta range, in the province of Trentino, is famous for its dramatic pinnacles of red rock. These rise sharply from green alpine meadows, like the spires of a Gothic cathedral. The guide of one early British mountaineer famously compared them to “your houses of parliament”. During the four days I spent exploring these mountains with my brother Rowan, his wife Olya, my wife Simona, and our friend John, however, we were consistently surprised by how easily accessible these mountains are –occasional weather-based difficulties notwithstanding.
The via ferrata (or “iron way”, in Italian) was invented near here during the First World War, as a way of moving men and weapons safely in the mountains. Today, these fixed routes, which feature staple-like steps and ladders bolted into the rock, allow ordinary hikers to scale sheer cliffs that would normally require a multi-pitch climb. You don’t need ropes or technical skill to tackle a ferrata – just a helmet, a via ferrata set to clip into the steel safety cable, and a head for heights.
On top of this, the Brenta Dolomites are criss-crossed by wellsignposted trails, and dotted with rifugi (“mountain refuges”). These offer weary walkers a bed in a bunk room and – this being Italy – a tasty three-course dinner. This infrastructure, including the paths, ferrate, and most of the rifugi are maintained by the Society of Trentino Alpinists (SAT). Navigating around their network is so easy that many people, including our group, opt to trek here without a guide.
Walking for around eight hours each day between huts, we crossed all manner of terrain: from steep-sided valleys where the previous winter’s snow had yet to melt, to rock-strewn moraines. At no point did we lose the signposts, or stray from
the path. In the evenings, between carafes of local wine and card games, we read about the early climbers who first laid out these routes: heroes like Ettore Castiglioni (for whom the fog-bound via ferrata was named) who climbed here in the 1930s using only the most rudimentary gear, before fighting with the anti-fascist partisans in World War Two. We also learned about the history of SAT, the venerable mountaineering club responsible for making these mountains so accessible. Founded in 1872, it was celebrating its 150th anniversary in the autumn of our visit.
Like climbers everywhere, SAT’s founders were motivated by the spirit of exploration – the idea of becoming the first to reach certain peaks, or complete specific routes. But these men (and they were almost all men) were also driven by more than just a desire for personal glory. They believed they were serving a greater purpose – one that linked climbing mountains to the future of Italy itself.
POLITICS IN THE PEAKS
In the mid-1800s, the idea that the Brenta Dolomites might be climbed by Italians was absurd. For starters, Italy didn’t exist as a country until 1861. Even after the Risorgimento united the separate states of the boot-shaped peninsula into a single nation, Trentino remained outside its borders. The region was still part of the Austrian Empire until the First World War. Furthermore, although the people who lived here spoke Italian, the idea of mountaineering – climbing for fun – would have been a completely alien concept to most of them. Above 2,000m in the Dolomites, the trees disappear and the grass becomes sparse and unsuitable for grazing. For the shepherds eking out a hardscrabble existence on these slopes, the idea of deliberately
“Like climbers everywhere, SAT’s founders were motivated by the spirit of exploration”Descending the Via Ferrata Ettore Castiglioni (above) leads down into the Val d’Ambiez (right).
“Mountain safety in the 1870s and 80s was basic, at best. Falls were common, and death was never far away”
venturing higher, into the dangerous world of snow, ice, and rock would have sounded like madness. Their lives were hard enough.
It was, perhaps surprisingly, Brits who bagged the first big peaks of the Brenta. Mountaineering had caught on among the English upper classes in the first half of the 19th century. Viewed not just as sport, but as a test of will, the new discipline was championed by the romantic poets, and in a frenzied decade of activity between 1854 and 1865, English amateurs would go on to make first ascents of many of the most famous peaks in the Alps.
In 1871, two bewhiskered Victorian gentlemen, Douglas Freshfield and Francis Fox Tuckett, arrived to explore what Freshfield (in his 1875 book Italian Alps) called “the fantastic rock ridges and mighty towers of the Brenta”. They were accompanied by a French guide, Henri Devouassoud (responsible for the comparison between these peaks and parliament), and in August, the three summited the range’s highest point, Cima Brenta. As news of their exploits spread, upper class locals realised they were being squeezed out of their own backyard. Inspired directly by the UK’s Alpine Club, a group led by Prospero Marchetti, a lawyer, and Nepomuceno Bolognini, a former soldier, founded the Alpine Society of Trentino (the precursor to SAT) in 1872.
From the very beginning, SAT was a political project. Both Marchetti, the society’s first president, and Bolognini, its vicepresident, were passionate supporters of Giuseppe Garibaldi, the revolutionary leader who had unified Italy a decade earlier. Both were strong believers in irredentismo – the idea that all Italian-speaking provinces, including Trentino, should be part of this new country. Bolognini, who as a soldier had taken part in previous abortive attempts to liberate the province, made it clear that mountaineering was (to paraphrase Clausewitz) the continuation of politics by other means.
Like alpine clubs everywhere, SAT set out to build mountain refuges, mark out paths through the Brenta, and organise expeditions to their peaks. Unlike other alpine clubs, they did so with the explicit aim of making sure the culture of these mountains was Italian, not Austrian. They funded expeditions to the summits, paid for scientific publications, and sponsored the training of guides. But the flag they planted on peaks was the banned Italian tricolour, the books they published were in Italian, and the guides they trained spoke the local language, not German.
This might not sound controversial today, but in the politically charged climate of Austrian-ruled Trentino, it was seen as deeply subversive. In 1876, four years after it was founded, SAT was shut down by the authorities (only to re-emerge the following year, with its current, slightly tweaked name). As its campaigns continued, SAT came into direct competition with the Österreichischer Alpenverein (the Austrian Alpine Club) and their German counterparts, the Deutsche Alpenverein, or DAV, who were busily constructing refuges, and laying out trails
of their own. Competition between the clubs was fierce. Rival expeditions would snake past each other at night in order to claim a particular face or route first. Mountain safety in the 1870s and 80s was basic, at best. Falls were common, and death was never far away.
STATES AND LADDERS
The evidence of this long-forgotten cold war is everywhere on our trek. On our first night, after hiking up from the village of Madonna di Campiglio (site of SAT’s first meeting in 1872) we slept in the Rifugio Francis Fox Tuckett. Named for the English mountaineer, the Tuckettpasshütte (as it is known in German) was originally built in 1905 by the DAV. The site they chose was a mere 20 metres away from an existing refuge that had been constructed by SAT a year earlier and named for an Italian, Quintino Sella.
Two days later, we spent our final night in an Austrian-built hut which sits 20 metres up the slope from SAT’s very first refuge, Rifugio Tosa, built in 1881. This literal one-upmanship might seem laughable in today’s Europe, but at the time, it was deadly serious. In their first meeting, SAT adopted the poem Excelsior! as their motto. Written by American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, it tells the story of a doomed young mountaineer who ignores all advice to carry on climbing and plants his flag on top of a mountain, dying in the attempt.
While the competitive environment between German and Italian-speaking mountaineers spurred the exploration of the Brenta and other peaks in Trentino, it also contributed to the patriotic fervour which led to the tragedy of the First World War. Many of the earliest members of SAT joined up to fight on the Italian side – among them Cesare Battisti and Fabio Filzi, both hanged for treason by the Austrians in 1916. Another SAT member martyred for the cause was Damiano Chiesa, executed by firing squad a few days short of his 22nd birthday. Like Battisti and Filzi, he now has streets and piazzas named after him throughout Italy.
If it was hard, in 2022, to imagine negotiating these mountain passes with the kind of clothing and climbing equipment these early pioneers used, it was even harder to imagine what drove them to war. The Brenta we hiked through were so peaceful that often the only sound was the crunch of crampons on snow, or the click of our walking poles on rock. On several occasions, we saw chamois just a few hundred metres from us, surprised marmots sunning themselves on rocks, or spotted buzzards soaring overhead.
On the trail, we met people from all over Europe. From the Dutch couple scaling the misty via ferrata as we climbed down, to the Czech crew who’d summited several of the highest peaks, to the countless German and Austrian families who’d hopped across the border to experience the mountains Italian style. The idea that this range was once contested, or that these cultures clashed bitterly, was scarcely believable.
If you looked hard enough, inside the side-by-side rifugi, you could find small plaques commemorating the modern friendship between the German DAV and the SAT. But otherwise, there was no sign of the fierce rivalry which drove the exploration of these mountains. The pioneers’ legacy remained, however – in trails open to all, via ferrate that secured everyone’s safety, and huts that welcomed hikers from around the world.
150 years on, the only thing left for us modern mountaineers to conquer was our vertigo.
“Evidence of this long-forgotten cold war is everywhere”Following in the footsteps of the pioneers (left) over the Tuckett Pass, named for the British mountaineer who first climbed many of these peaks.
ALPINE HIGHS
MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE KIT
EDELRID CABLE KIT LITE
PRICE: £105
Edelrid’s Cable Kit Lite is a safety essential for any via ferrata adventure. Keeping you comfortable and secure as you navigate the iron paths, the Triton carabiners’ palm squeeze mechanisms prevent unintentional openings. Wear-resistant elasticated webbing keeps the carabiners close to hand, while the compact shock absorber is one of the lightest on the market.
BLACK DIAMOND HALF DOME HELMET
PRICE: £58
The Half Dome helmet is popular with climbers worldwide. Pairing a durable shell with Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) foam, it delivers reliable head protection in a lightweight package. Thanks to the low-profile suspension system which you can adjust one-handed, it’s easy to get a comfortable and secure fit.
MSR WINDBURNER 1L
PRICE: £200
The WindBurner’s design is all about maximising fuel efficiency, so you can boil water fast while reducing the amount of gas you need to carry. A windproof radiant burner and pressure regulator ensure reliable performance in cold and windy conditions. Ideal for solo travels, the all-in-one nesting system makes it easy to pack.
PETZL CORAX
PRICE: £63
The Corax will be your go-to harness for rock climbing, mountaineering, and via ferrata. Ensuring all-season performance, you can adjust the waist and leg buckles to accommodate different clothing layers. Petzl’s Frame technology distributes weight evenly for a comfortable fit, while high-capacity rear gear loops can carry equipment without interfering with a backpack.
SEA TO SUMMIT LIGHTWEIGHT DRY BAGS
PRICE FROM: £12
Whether it’s a day hike or long-distance tour, we always recommend packing your gear into dry bags. Durable, waterproof, and available in a range of colours and sizes, they protect your kit and keep your pack organised. Sea to Summit’s versions have a light-reflecting white interior making it easier to spot the items inside.
VICTORINOX CLIMBER
PRICE: £39
Creators of the iconic Swiss Army Knife, Victorinox know a thing or two about multi tools. Their Climber is loaded with practical features, including scissors, screwdrivers, and two sharp blades. Topquality componentry means you’ll have it for years to come, making it the go-to choice for outdoor enthusiasts.
LIFESYSTEMS LIGHT AND DRY PRO
PRICE: £25
This self-contained first aid kit is lightweight but fully featured. Its 42 items include everything from essentials such as sun cream, plasters and water-purification tablets to dressings for more serious injuries. Protected by a waterproof case, it’s a must-have piece of safety gear for your all-season adventures.
LEKI MAKALU FX CARBON
PRICE: £195
The Makalu is not only a tried and tested design but also a comfortable and reliable pole to use. Quick to collapse or put together, the adjustable Speed Lock is easy to operate even in the early morning cold. Carbon poles soak up some of the trail vibrations, and the ergonomic handles ensure happy hands at the end of a long day.
WALKING BOOTS BUYING GUIDE
When it comes to hill walking, nothing is more important than selecting the right walking boots. That’s why we always recommend trying on prospective pairs in-store wherever possible to ensure you achieve that perfect fit. Walking footwear comes in a variety of styles depending on your experience and chosen terrain, but a classic pair of over-the-ankle boots are the go-to option for most hikers. Sturdy and versatile, they can handle whatever conditions the British countryside can throw at them, from Lakeland scrambles to Cotswold meanders and everything in between.
Liner
Prevents water from getting in but allows perspiration to escape through the upper fabric, keeping your feet dry and comfortable on the trail. Typically made from GORE-TEX, though some brands use their own liner technology that offers similar performance.
Upper
Built for support, with high over-the-ankle protection. Acting as the first line of defence against the elements, it’s usually made from either treated leather, synthetic fabric or a combination of both.
Midsole
Provides most of the impact protection and underfoot support. Midsoles are anatomically curved to match the natural shape of your foot and can be made from a variety of materials. EVA (expanded foam) is a popular choice as it is very lightweight and provides excellent cushioning, while PU (polyurethane) offers a great mix of flex and support. Many boots feature both materials, and manufacturers often include their own technologies to fine-tune the flex. A softer flex is great for easier trails and relaxed walking, while a stiffer midsole will be more suitable for demanding routes over mountain terrain.
Tongue
Usually gusseted, meaning it has a section of material on either side attaching it to the rest of the boot. This acts as a guttering system, keeping water or any other elements from getting down the side of the tongue and into the boot.
HOW SHOULD THEY FIT?
When trying on footwear for the first time, there are a few simple tests you can use to check the fit:
Make sure your toes aren't pressing the front of the boot. Your foot should feel secure, with no heel lift, but your toes should have some room for movement. Try squeezing a finger down behind your Achilles tendon with your toes pushed into the front. If you can manage it (just), then your boots are about the right length.
Outsole
Typically made from vulcanised rubber for its unrivalled grip and durability. The depth and pattern of the lugs (teeth) have a direct effect on the boot's performance. Chunkier treads shed mud easily and will be more at home in wet, slippery conditions. Thinner patterns handle better on rocky terrain since more surface area is in direct contact with the ground. Vibram is the most common brand of sole manufacturer, though there are excellent alternatives, such as Salomon's Contagrip.
LEATHER OR SYNTHETIC?
Leather has been a tried and trusted technology for as long as we’ve been selling boots (that’s 90 years!). Sturdy, protective and very supportive, a leather upper is perfect for year-round use in the rugged British mountains and – when looked after properly – it can last a very long time.
after making
A synthetic upper, on the other hand, will usually be lighter weight and more breathable, making it ideal for summer walking and milder temperatures.
3 4 5
Check the width. While the uppers of leather boots will soften a little with time, the rest of the boot won't. The upper should be holding your foot in place, and the insole should cradle your foot at the edges almost perfectly. If it feels too narrow or wide at the ball of the foot, then consider a different option.
Try your boots on in the afternoon. A day in the hills causes your feet to expand slightly – particularly in hot weather – so trying them in the afternoon will give you a more realistic idea of how they'll feel when you need comfort the most.
Wear your new boots around the house before taking them on a walk. This gives you a chance to double-check the fit, see how they feel at a different time of day, and test them with your own socks.
Only use one pair of socks! Modern footwear is designed to be secure, warm, and breathable. Wearing multiple pairs of socks will not increase comfort; in fact it will only heighten the risk of blisters since the materials will rub against each other.
For total peace of mind, speak to one of our experts in-store. Our dedicated boot-fitting service can be booked in advance and ensures you leave with the most appropriate and comfortable footwear for your chosen activity. From introducing new lacing techniques to checking for toe-shunting or heel-slipping, we pride ourselves on finding the perfect fit for your feet.
FOR MORE BUYING GUIDES ON ALL YOUR OUTDOOR GEAR, SCAN HERE:
ROUGH & READY
4-SEASON BOOTS
SCARPA MEN’S RIBELLE LITE H-DRY
PRICE: £320 WEIGHT: 655g RATING: B2
Alpine ridges, scrambles, and arduous treks are all in the remit for the Ribelle Lite. Its burly upper and full rand offer proper mountain protection, while the sock-like fit provides security. Underfoot, shock-absorbing, and stabilising technologies improve comfort, with the B2-rated sole unit clad in Vibram Mont rubber to keep you sure-footed.
LA SPORTIVA WOMEN’S AEQUILIBRIUM ST GORE-TEX
PRICE: £325 WEIGHT: 515g RATING: B2
The Aequilibrium ST benefits from top-notch tech to deliver a fast-and-light snowline trekking boot with all the trimmings. Highlights include a Double Heel construction that enables a smooth and easy walking motion while improving the braking effect on descents. A snow guard cuff and waterproof GORE-TEX Performance Comfort lining protect against winter conditions.
MEINDL MEN’S BHUTAN GORE-TEX
PRICE: £275 WEIGHT: 800g RATING: B0
There’s a reason some products are classics, and the Bhutan is a perfect example. A full nubuck leather upper and proven Vibram sole will last the miles for many years to come. Especially suited to the rigours of UK walking, the robust build, full rand, and GORETEX Performance Comfort membrane will keep you comfortable across the seasons.
SALEWA WOMEN’S MOUNTAIN TRAINER 2 MID GORE-TEX
PRICE: £235 WEIGHT: 470g RATING: B0
Trainer by name, but not by nature, this boot offers keen trekkers plenty of protection at a low weight. With Salewa’s trademark 3F system, the instep area connects with the sole and heel for improved flexibility and support. A full rand fends off the rough stuff, while the cushioned midsole ensures comfort on longer days.
SCARPA WOMEN’S MESCALITO TRK PRO GORE-TEX
PRICE: £300 WEIGHT: 670g RATING: B1
Excelling on multi-day routes, the Mescalito TRK Pro gives the comfort and support needed when carrying a heavy pack. Assured four-season performance comes from the durable oiled nubuck upper, bluesign approved GORE-TEX waterproof membrane and C1 cramponcompatible Vibram XS Trek sole.
THE NORTH FACE MEN’S SUMMIT BREITHORN FUTURELIGHT
PRICE: £250 WEIGHT: 552g RATING: B2
The Breithorn is a modern mountain boot offering the comfortable feel of a B1 model with a strengthened sole unit that is C2 crampon compatible. A FUTURELIGHT membrane and stretch collar keep the elements out, while Vibram Litebase Mont rubber gives reliable traction. A capable above-snowline performer, it’s an excellent choice for alpine trekking.
SIX BREATHTAKING BOTHIES
Cosy up on your next multi-day hike with an overnighter in one of Britain’s free mountain shelters. Sian Lewis visits half a dozen of the best.
PENRHOS ISAF BOTHY, ERYRI (SNOWDONIA), WALES
Penrhos is a charming stone farmhouse straight out of a fairytale, hidden in thick forest amongst the crumbling, moss-strewn remains of an old smallholding. Located in the heart of Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park, this roomy, two-storied shelter was first built in 1880 and is now equipped with a wood-burning stove and a fuel store; it even has an outhouse with an earth toilet – a luxury by bothy standards! Be warned, however: mice like to share this cosy cottage as much as hikers, so wrap food up carefully.
Penrhos Isaf can be reached by foot along the walking routes which thread through the thick canopy of Coed y Brenin forest or via a five-mile circuit up Moel Dôl-frwynog’s 269-metre peak, where there’s also a waterfall pool to dip in.
SUILEAG BOTHY, ASSYNT, SCOTLAND
Assynt is one of the least densely populated areas in the whole of Europe and home to some of Scotland’s most breathtaking mountains. Towering over it all is the isolated peak of Suilven, at 731 metres. Summiting this ‘crown jewel’ (where you can seek out mountaineer Chris Bonnington’s favourite view from a mountain peak) requires a steep 500-metre ascent and a 12-mile round trip, but back in the valley, tired hikers will find a very welcome pitstop at the snug Suileag bothy. This well-cared for refuge has a fireplace and two separate bedrooms that sleep up to eight people each. With the fire blazing, it’s a warm haven on a winter’s day, while in summer you can sit on the bench outside and gaze up at the breathtaking mountain peak you just stood tall on.
KEARVAIG BOTHY, CAPE WRATH, SCOTLAND
Scotland’s northernmost bothy is also one of its most beautiful, looking out over its very own white sand bay and a turquoise sweep of sea. It’s found in Cape Wrath, a wild 50,000-acre headland that forms Britain’s most north-westerly corner. Flanked by cliffs and sea stacks populated by puffins and guillemots, this remote retreat requires you to make the pilgrimage on foot, mountain bike or ferry.
It’s a pretty special place inside, too, complete with mirror ball, multiple bedrooms and a roaring fire (useful for warming up if you brave a plunge into the sea from the doorstep). For a proper adventure, make the 13 mile trek from Sandwood Bay, or for experienced hikers, along the challenging and unmarked Cape Wrath Trail – 200 miles of true wilderness.
“this remote retreat requires you to make the pilgrimage on foot, mountain bike or ferry”
BOB SCOTT’S HUT, CAIRNGORMS, SCOTLAND
One of the prettiest – and most popular – bothies in the Highlands, Bob Scott’s is named after an estate worker who allowed walkers and climbers to shelter in his cottage that’s situated nearby. It’s a tiny but very rewarding little cabin in the wild, surrounded by trees and perched right on the bank of a bubbling river. Prayer flags flap outside, while inside there’s a sleeping platform facing a wood stove.
You’re unlikely to have Bob’s to yourself on weekends, so if you’re trekking to this bothy at busy times, bring a tent as a backup; there are great wild camping spots along the nearby Lui River bank, and you can swim right in front of the hut. While it’s a flat and easy three-mile walk to reach Bob Scott’s, you can hike another five miles higher up into the mountains to reach the Hutchison Memorial Hut for a two-day bothy-to-bothy adventure.
“Prayer flags flap outside, while inside there’s a sleeping platform facing a wood stove”
RYVOAN BOTHY, CAIRNGORMS, SCOTLAND
Ryvoan is the perfect bothy for beginners. This modest stone cottage is only an hour’s hike from the Glenmore Forest Park car park, just up the road from Aviemore. The path is easy to follow, winding through a beautiful forest of tall pine trees and beside the glassy clear waters of An Lochan Uaine (the ‘Green Loch’) – an amazing place for a wild swim.
There’s just one room inside the bothy, but it’s furnished with a wood stove and a wide bench to sleep on. There’s usually a pile of felled logs left here by kindly souls, too. If you want an easy night in the wild you can leave it at that, but for an amazing view, carry on the next morning up the steep but not technical hike to the summit of Meall a Bhuichaille (810m), where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic vistas of the snow-clad Cairngorms.
“Ryvoan is the perfect bothy for beginners”
GREG’S HUT, NORTH PENNINES, ENGLAND
Greg’s Hut – named after climber John Gregory – was once a blacksmith’s shop and cottage for workers from the nearby lead mine. Today, it’s a cosy sanctuary for weary walkers tackling Cross Fell – the highest mountain in the Pennines. England’s highest bothy at 700 metres, Greg’s is a basic but welcoming place to spend the night; there’s a raised platform for sleeping, a woodburning stove, and glorious views of the mountains from the windows. A limited supply of wood is provided but consider bringing your own for a comforting blaze. The hut makes the perfect stopping off point if you’re following the 268 mile-long Pennine Way, or just a good overnighter on the six-mile hike from Garrigill. Continue on to the top of Cross Fell the next morning for far-reaching views of the Peak and across to the Lake District –and even Scotland – on a clear day.
Get involved
You can support the Mountain Bothies Association to help maintain these and other Bothies across the UK.
To find out more go to mountainbothies.org.uk
NEXT GENERATION WATERPROOFS: Why the new GORE-TEX fabric
The latest invention by the fabric supplier is a significant step towards lowering the carbon footprint of waterproof clothing
The GORE-TEX brand has launched a new waterproof fabric that’s being hailed by outdoor industry leaders as a huge step forward for sustainability. The material, which was developed in collaboration with Patagonia, Mountain Equipment, and other well-known brands, is the first GORE-TEX fabric to be entirely free from perfluorocarbons— the harmful chemical compounds better known as PFCs.
The fabric is based on a new innovative waterproof membrane made of Expanded Polyethylene, or ePE. According to Patagonia’s Kristo Torgersen, ePE is not just PFC-free, it’s also more supple, and has a lower mass than more traditional waterproof membranes, which brings other environmental benefits. “Because it’s less material to produce, it requires less carbon output, less energy input, and less water usage. We set out to eliminate PFCs, but we got so much more,” he explained in a statement.
Finding a way to make a PFC-free waterproof membrane was the result of a decade-long R&D process, Torgersen said. “Achieving the answer required creativity, boldness and commitment in our partnership,” he said. “The solution didn’t come easy. Other options were tried and abandoned along the way, but we weathered these setbacks and pushed forward together.”
Polyethylene (PE) itself is not a brand-new material, but PE-based products previously lacked the durability needed for waterproof, windproof and breathable clothing that would meet the demands of Patagonia’s community of skiers, climbers, and other outdoor enthusiasts who put trust in quality products. The ePE membrane on the other hand provides “the same waterproof performance as traditional GORE-TEX products with no PFCs”.
When the GORE-TEX brand started making materials for outdoor clothing in the 1970s, the impact of PFCs was not widely known, but studies have shown that they can contaminate water sources and have toxic effects on wildlife. Because they take a long time to degrade, PFCs can accumulate in various organisms and end up being passed up the food chain. They’ve been proven to affect the growth, reproduction, and immune systems of several fish and animal species, and have been linked to hormonal and liver problems in people.
These alarming findings have made eliminating the chemicals a priority not just for Patagonia, but for other outdoor clothing brands too. Norrøna, the Norwegian outdoor brand founded in 1929, and British brand Mountain Equipment are among the companies who’ve jumped at the chance to use the new GORE-TEX products.
is a huge step forward for responsible performance
Finding Balance
A game-changing 3-layer waterproof, engineered for year-round mountain use. Featuring new GORE-TEX product technology that provides durably waterproof, windproof, breathable protection, and is PFC-free with a reduced carbon footprint, our Makalu range balances our commitment to reducing our ecological impact whilst remaining steadfast on high-performance, no matter the conditions.
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MID-SIZED PACKS
OSPREY WOMEN’S SIRRUS 36
PRICE: £175 CAPACITY: 36 LITRES
Modern materials meet traditional design in the Sirrus 36, a feature-rich women’s specific hiking pack. You can access the main compartment from the top, sides and base for easier packing and organisation. With 36 litres of storage, it’s a great choice for long day hikes and one-nighters when carrying minimalist camping gear.
OSPREY WOMEN’S EJA PRO 55
PRICE: £240 CAPACITY: 55 LITRES
The women’s specific Eja 55 is just the pack for multi-day trips, with plenty of storage and an excellent back system to ensure hiking comfort. Although it weighs less than a kilo, you can remove the lid and lower straps to save even more grams on fast-and-light missions. External stretch pockets plus webbing lash points make it easy to stash items on the go.
OSPREY KESTREL 48
PRICE: £200 CAPACITY: 48 LITRES
The Kestrel 48 offers a clean and competent package that’ll see you right in most overnight outdoor scenarios. With a focus on carry comfort, the AirScape back panel includes venting foam ridges, while the LightWire frame helps spread the load evenly. A PFC-free water-repellent finish and bluesign approved fabric round out this solid performer.
LOWE ALPINE WOMEN’S CHOLATSE ND 40:45
CAPACITY: 40-45 LITRES
The Cholatse ND 40:45 pairs a women’s specific fit with Lowe Alpine’s tech know-how to make an impressive all-season backpack. Adjust the floating lid to increase capacity by 5 litres, while the zipped front entry makes packing and accessing gear a breeze. Helpful extras include an internal divider, walking pole attachments and a raincover.
LOWE ALPINE AIRZONE TRAIL 35
PRICE: £130 CAPACITY: 35 LITRES
The 35-litre AirZone Trail is a versatile day pack benefitting from Lowe’s excellent ventilated AirZone back system. Lightweight, comfortable and practical, there’s storage hidden everywhere –including in the hip belt – plus options to carry a hydration bladder or bottles depending on your water needs.
OSPREY TALON 44
PRICE: £175 CAPACITY: 44 LITRES
Osprey’s Talon series is a staple of the outdoor community. An AirScape ventilated back, adjustable torso length and injection moulded frame sheet, combine to give superb stability, breathability and fit. This 44-litre version includes classic features like a floating lid and sleeping bag base compartment. An excellent choice for lightweight overnight trips.
SCOTLAND BY SUP
There’s no better way to immerse yourself in the Scottish landscape than by paddleboard. Hannah Francis from our Fort William store takes a three-day voyage up Loch Shiel.
With three days to complete the 18 mile journey,
It turns out that ‘slow adventure’ is my kind of experience. As we turn the big corner on Loch Shiel and a vast glen opens up before us, I feel no urge to dig hard into the water or race to the finish line. We’re blissfully cruising; on cloud nine. And despite the expected change in the weather, we take our time nosing into nooks and crannies along the shore and continue to enjoy a relaxed conversation while we paddle.
I’ve joined Ellis Brigham team members Simon Pitman and Andy Johnson for a three-day trip from Acharacle to Glenfinnan, stand up paddleboarding almost the full length of Loch Shiel, a distance of 18 miles. It’s day two, and having yawned, stretched and mooched about over several cups of tea, we’ve made a graceful leap onto our boards and glided smoothly out onto the water. Well, the tea and yawning part is accurate. In truth, the three of us are fairly new to SUP expeditions and are still mastering balance with the extra weight on board. Nevertheless, we can appreciate the scenery, and the view as we round that corner quickly etches itself into my memory. With mountains towering on both sides, it’s
like we’re in the famous Great Hall at Hogwarts – the sky an enchanted ceiling dancing with ominous magic – except we’re very much out in the wild. I’m lost for words, so I just laugh out loud, senses overflowing.
Paddleboarding is an odd kind of activity. One minute you’re paddling hard, the next you’re standing still, then lying down or even just holding your paddle up in the air like a sail. It’s a lovely mix, and as with a wobble board, the small muscles in your ankles, knees and core don’t really get a break – but as you adjust, it’s easy to forget that your body is working hard. That’s my kind of exercise! It’s also very accessible to those who have never owned any kind of vessel before; there are loads of reasonably-priced kits on the market, complete with board, fins, paddle, leash, pump and bag.
SADDLING UP THE SUP
As with all watersports, though, it’s important to exercise caution. We chose Loch Shiel for its freshwater, non-tidal nature and because it is relatively narrow, with easy access to both sides. It also boasts civilisation at either end and a wonderfully remote middle section. The 18-mile plus distance was a commitment, but with three days to play with we were confident in our ability to reach the other end safely. We didn’t have any clue where we were going to camp, but with naïve optimism we assumed there would be loads of options (more on that later).
I’d never done an overnight SUP trip before – in fact I’d never even carried a bag on my board – but I’m lucky enough to own some pretty good hillwalking kit and it packed easily into three dry bags. Two of these are placed on the front of my Red Voyager, helping to keep the nose down so its V-shaped hull can cut a straight-line through the water; the remaining bag is strapped to the back. We were nervous about how our boards would handle under all this weight, but once we finally slipped into the water we found it only made them feel more stable. Nonetheless, setting off on that first day I felt a surprising amount of trepidation, mixed with tummy-clenching excitement.
Day two proves to be the most challenging. Persistent rain showers soak me through and there are some choppy conditions to contend with, but kneeling for balance my board steams calmly ahead, straight as an arrow – and to be honest, without much skill on my part. Still on
our knees, we stick our paddles up and sail, the stiffening breeze providing both a helpful motor and a gentle reminder of the power of nature. Suffice to say I spend most of the day in this position, at the edge of my comfort zone but feeling safer for having two friends – and the shore – nearby.
It is surprisingly difficult to find a suitable campsite. We pull ashore at a couple of spots and poke around among the bog and tussocks, only to beat a retreat back onto the water. It’s easy after a trip to say that everything was “cruisey” or that it “totally went to plan”, but in reality there are often some hairy moments, and as the daylight wears thin we begin to wonder if we’ll need to just carry on paddling to the end of the loch. The atmosphere among the crew is a little stressed and awkward. Do we call it? Luckily, and with hope fading fast,
There
is nothing half so much worth doing as messing about on boats... or SUPs!
“With mountains towering on both sides, it’s like we’re in the famous Great Hall at Hogwarts – the sky an enchanted ceiling”
we find the perfect spot. By this point it really is getting dark. There’s a lesson to be learned here, and we spend the evening standing around our little portable fire pit in the drizzle. A fitting end to a humbling day.
We finish the trip back in more comfortable SUP territory. In sight of the Glenfinnan Monument, we see the world-famous Jacobite Express chugging over the viaduct, skirting around the perfect island of rocks and ancient Scots pines. It’s a dream spot, and I can immediately appreciate why paddleboarding is among the fastest growing sports in the world. I feel relaxed, remarkably stable on my board and soothingly close to water and nature. The lily lagoons, tucked in where the Callop River meets the loch, are an extra gift. I’d encourage anyone to give it a go. Our three-day trip has been challenging, but by splitting the route into modest distances and leaving space in the schedule to relax in camp (OK, perhaps not that second evening!), it feels like the perfect balance. There’s plenty of time to talk along the way, and our conversation spans the full range of banter, deep chat and comfortable silence as we appreciate our surroundings and the true privilege of being able to make this journey.
REFLECTIONS ON THE LOCH
I write this amid the grumpy aftermath of a car crash, nursing my injuries and with a long restful summer ahead. But it’s trips like this that are going to form a big part of my recovery and, ultimately, my future in the outdoors. I don’t often feel a desire to push myself to the physical limit, and I’m certainly not the sweaty record-breaking type, though I like to think I’m pretty gnarly in my own way. I’m very proud of my comfort and competence in the hills, and my sturdy calf muscles and stoic toes. What I really crave is feeling totally present in nature; those moments of serenity, with no pressure to move on – perhaps even reading my book on a summit, or eating something as ridiculous to carry as a grapefruit. Multi-day trips are my happy place, and though this paddleboarding adventure felt like a bit of a leap into the unknown, it certainly won’t be my last.
Watch ‘Calm’ a short film of this expedition on YouTube. @ellisbrigham.
“It is surprisingly di cult to find a suitable campsite. We begin to wonder if we’ll need to just carry on paddling”Multi-day adventures live long in the memory.
GEAR
KIT YOU NEED
BOARD
Ready to embark on your own SUP adventure? Ideal for longer journeys when carrying extra kit, the inflatable 12’ Voyager package from Red Paddle Co includes fins, pump, paddle, leash, bag and repair kit.
JACKET
Changing weather conditions on and off the water demand a waterproof shell you can easily pack away. The lightweight Palm Vantage features a fleece-lined handwarmer pocket, offset half zip and reflective details.
PERSONAL FLOATATION DEVICE
Stay safe on your SUP with the Peyto buoyancy aid from Palm. Suitable for allseason use, its durable fabric and shaped Gaia foam offer lasting comfort, while the easily adjustable straps ensure a secure fit.
BOOTS
Palm’s versatile Rock shoes are made from 3mm CR limestone neoprene for warmth and comfort. The mid-height and Velcro bridge strap ensure stability, while the Diamond Traction sole provides great grip on deck.
DRY BAG
The Sea to Summit 35 litre Big River dry bag will keep your gear safe from splashes. Made from durable 420 denier ripstop nylon, it boasts a triple coated base and multiple lash points for securely mounting it to your board.
£1,249
£130
£140
£45
£56
CONQUER THE ULTRA: HOW TO PREPARE FOR A BIG RUN
Ready to go the distance? Ellis Brigham Content Creator and experienced Ultra-Trail runner Ross Litherland shares his top tips on how to train for success.
It’s Friday 28th August 2015 at 17:58 pm in Place de l’Eglise, Chamonix - the start of the UTMB. This is it: eight months of training, racing, and hard work have led to this point. The butterflies have been building from the moment I woke at 6am and the adrenaline is peaking as the first notes of Vangelis’s Conquest of Paradise start to play. I’m struggling to understand why I’m so extremely nervous. After all, this race is not going to be over any time soon; I’ve got a long, long way to go before its conclusion will be known.
I can’t smile at the crowd or get excited; the task is far too daunting. In any case, high-fiving and whooping now will only mean I’ll have less energy in reserve when it starts getting tough. Which it will, at some point. Better to focus on one thing and one thing only: moving forward.
The truth is, I’m absolutely petrified. I wouldn’t mind, but I’ve been on this very start line plenty of times before. Why does it feel like there is so much riding on it? Then I remember that this is the biggest Ultra-Trail race in the world – and that at this precise moment, I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.
Having completed my first Ultra-Trail in 2007 and my fourth in 2015 (after the nervy countdown described above) I thought I’d finally got over my Chamonix addiction. Yet as I type this, I’m only eight weeks away from the start of the famous TDS (les Traces du Duc de Savoie - UTMB Mont Blanc) – gulp! Below, then, are the lessons I’ve learned –mostly the hard way – about how to prepare for a big run.
Play the Mental Game
If I’m wondering about turning off the alarm and having another 30 minutes in bed, I think about those start-line nerves. When I eventually get back there this year, I want my mind to be focused on the training I’ve done, not the training I neglected to do.
Regularly reminding myself of all that preparation –and my previous experience of getting through these challenges – gives me confidence that I’ll be able to finish.
Measure Training Vertically
I can’t recall any flat running during the Ultra-Trails that I raced. Therefore I always set elevation goals and leave the miles to look after themselves. 10,000 ft weeks are a good target three to four months out. Add a 15,000 ft
week – or perhaps even a 20,000 ft week – within one to two months of the main event. When it comes to build-up races, I prefer to do a hilly 50k rather than a longer distance on the flat – but whatever the event, it needs to be challenging enough that I’ll have the desire to stop. This builds my experience of having to dig in; an ability I’ll definitely need on the big day.
Put Away the Poles
To be honest, while you should definitely practice using your poles so your technique is nailed, I hardly use poles in training, and I’ve still managed to use them effectively on race day. Getting a good technique is
“ALWAYS SET ELEVATION GOALS AND LEAVE THE MILES TO LOOK AFTER THEMSELVES”
more important than the endurance element of carrying them. If I do use them in training, I always put them away for the descents as I don’t want to limit the fatigue on my legs – I actually want to trash them. That way they’ll be stronger when it comes to race day. Using poles on descents also slows me down far too much, so I would only ever use them if I was extremely tired or death marching.
Baby Food is Not Just for Babies
Energy gels are great, but over 100 miles you will often crave more variety (the best thing I’ve ever eaten was in 2015, when a very friendly spectator passed me a slice of pizza in Vallorcine). It is good to think beyond sports nutrition. On every 100 miler, I’ve carried lots of race fuel or stashed it in drop bags, only to bring most of it home with me. So, if there’s something savoury that you love and could easily eat for breakfast every morning, you should be able to eat it under tough circumstances on the trail. Just don’t put anything in the bottom of your rucksack as you’ll never end up touching it. Try out some alternative food options during your training blocks or build-up races; I’m currently experimenting with nut butter in a soft gel flask… and baby food pouches!
Don’t Over-Train
My DNF on the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc in 2008 came when I developed an ITB issue descending into Les Chapieux. This was a result of over-training. I’d successfully finished the race the year before,
so I thought I simply needed to do more in order to go faster. Likewise, cramming is never a good idea. If you’ve left your big training blocks late or missed your main build-up race, then (assuming your main goal is to finish) I think it’s better to accept that you’ll be slower. Increasing your training load close to the run can leave you too tired to complete it.
Try Your Kit
The first miles out of Chamonix are always strewn with abandoned kit. Even if it’s just to the top of your local hill, it’s important to test all your gear on a run and see how it feels when packed. Also, be sure to keep your poles stowed until you’re actually on the first climb; tripping another runner is not a great start.
Arrive Well Rested
Don’t rely on getting a good night’s sleep the night before the race. There is too much going on, too much to worry about and the nerves will start kicking in far sooner than you think. Instead, plan more sleep before you travel to the event. Start at least a week before by making yourself go to bed an hour earlier.
Ross Litherland is a fell runner of over 20 years. Between 2007 and 2015 he became completely engrossed by the legendary Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB), finishing it four times and with one DNF. He has also completed the Traces du Duc de Savoie (TDS). These days he is still found fell racing around his local Peak District and the Lakes.
ON THE RUN
FOR THE TRAIL
HOKA MEN’S SPEEDGOAT 5 GORE-TEX
£160
The Speedgoat range is rightly respected by trail runners of all stripes, thanks to a strong competitive heritage and proven design details. This wetweather ready version pairs an engineered mesh upper with GORE-TEX to block rain without compromising breathability. A Vibram Megagrip sole with aggressive Traction Lugs assures grip on loose, muddy ground.
INOV-8 MEN’S FULL ZIP WINDSHELL
PRICE: £90
There’s nothing like a good windproof for when the breeze picks up or for slinging on ‘just in case’ during longer runs. Lighter and quieter than a waterproof, this inov-8 full zip is easy to don and doff while on the move and offers rapid venting if conditions change. A hood and thumb loops provide extra warmth.
INOV-8 WOMEN’S RACE ELITE TIGHT
PRICE: £80
Full-length and formfitting, the Race Elite Tights are designed for freedom of movement and support. The anti-chafe seams and flat waistband will be appreciated on longer runs, as will the rear phone pocket, mesh gel pocket, key loop, and reflective detailing. Finally, ankle zips make them super easy to get on.
PETZL NAO RL
PRICE: £153
The 1500-lumen rechargeable Nao RL delivers exactly what runners need –powerful illumination to make light work of dark trails. Reactive Lighting automatically adapts brightness to your environment, while the reflective headband, top strap, and rear battery pack distribute weight evenly for comfort and support.
TAILWIND ENDURANCE
FUEL
PRICE: £3
Increasingly popular with all manner of athletes, Tailwind’s Endurance Fuel mixes with water to boost energy levels and electrolytes during endurance workouts. This 54g sachet has two lemon-flavoured 100-calorie servings that pack in glucose and essential electrolytes while being vegan and gluten-free, with no soy or dairy.
INOV-8 ULTRAPAC PRO 2 IN 1
PRICE: £160
The Ultrapac Pro’s secret weapon is a 7-litre removable compartment that transforms the lightweight 5-litre vest into a larger 12-litre pack, making it perfect for both long training runs and race days. The two 500ml soft flasks have detachable tubes, while the zero-bounce pole attachment points are easy to access.
WOODBERRY WETLANDS
If I’m having a stressful week, Woodberry Wetlands is my go-to place to wander. Just a short walk from Manor House tube station, it’s filled with wildlife and I love how serene it feels there. It’s by no means a long walk, so afterwards I’ll head to the Castle Climbing Centre. London is very flat, so having indoor spaces to climb is amazing; the cafe is great too!
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Name: Rachel Dark
Job: Sales Assistant
Main activities: Climbing, Hiking, Cycling, Camping, Mountaineering Part of the EB family for: 5 months
THETFORD FOREST
Set in the beautiful Suffolk countryside, Thetford Forest is the perfect place to go mountain biking. OK, there might not be many actual mountains in this part of the world, but if you enjoy winding woodland trails you won’t be disappointed. You can even hire bikes from High Lodge, where the staff will provide you with maps and information to make sure you have the best time.
HAMPSTEAD HEATH
One of the few places in London where you can forget where you are, the Heath is a favourite of mine for running. There are some spectacular views of the city which help keep me motivated on the way round, and it’s a great chance to exercise in woodland and natural areas without having to leave the big smoke – definitely helpful when you have a busy schedule.
SURREY HILLS
Most people wouldn’t have Surrey on their hiking bucket list, but if you’re looking for a day walk that’s just a short train ride away from London, the Surrey Hills are a great option. With magnificent views, waterfalls, wildlife and woodland, it’s got everything you need to reconnect with the outdoors. My favourite part of the day is lunch, when I can sit down and take it all in.
You’re never far from the outdoors in the UK, even in London. Rachel Dark from our Covent Garden store tells us how she escapes the capital.
