RACKING UP: HOW TO BUILD YOUR FIRST TRAD RACK

from Explore - Spring Issue

by Ellis Brigham

NATURAL HIGH: HOW RUNNING AIDS MENTAL HEALTH

SHOP THE RANGE

BUILD RACK YOUR FIRST

TRAD CLIMBING BASICS

DMM WALLNUT SET 1 – 11 £105

Nuts are the most common pieces of trad protection used in the UK, and they come in a variety of shapes and sizes. You’ll usually want around 10-12 nuts per rack, although on longer routes it’s not uncommon to carry double that. DMM’s Wallnuts are a classic example, this set includes sizes 1 – 11 for a variety of placement options.

RACKED WITH BLACK DIAMOND OVAL KEYLOCK CARABINER £8

DMM DRAGON CAMS

Cams are an extremely versatile and reliable form of trad protection. Despite reliable form of trad protection. Despite the higher price tag, they’re a worthy investment, especially in areas with parallel cracks where you’ll struggle to fi nd decent gear placements for nuts and hexes. Paired with DMM’s Phantom Wiregate carabiners, the matching colour coding enables quick ID.

DRAGON CAM SET 00, 0, 1 £200 DRAGON CAM SET 2, 3, 4 £210 RACKED WITH DMM PHANTOM WIREGATE 6 PACK £50

BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE £26 & PEARLOCK SCREWGATE £12

A future-proof belay device for beginner trad climbers, this has dual holes and guide mode compatibility. Both features will come in handy when you have gained experience and start climbing more challenging routes. To go with it, you want a locking carabiner with a wide top bar. BD’s belay device and screwgate fi t the bill perfectly.

Quickdraws are an essential piece in any trad rack as they attach the rope to the protection. Prioritise lightweight options where possible – the weight on your rack will quickly add up! Available in three lengths, having a mix of DMM’s Spectre 2 quickdraws is a great place to start.

SPECTRE 2 12CM £16 | SPECTRE 2 18CM £16.50 | SPECTRE 2 25CM £17 SPECTRE 2 12CM £16 | SPECTRE 2 18CM £16.50 | SPECTRE 2 25CM £17

DMM PHANTOM ALPINE 60CM QUICKDRAW £2360CM QUICKDRAW £23

Unlike sport climbing bolts, trad protection rarely sits in a straight line. To help reduce rope drag, you want to add some extendable quickdraws to your rack. DMM’s Phantom Alpine is one of our favourites; strong, light, and functional, it’s paired with a 60cm long, 8mm wide Dynatec sling.

DMM TORQUE NUT SET 1 – 4 £74

The shape of these mean, like cams they can be wedged and rolled into position when weighted. Each piece gives a wide range of placement options. Extendable slings let you reduce rope drag without the need for extra quickdraws.

RACKED WITH EDELRID PURE WIRE £8

DMM NUTBUSTER £13

A nut key is a must-have for any trad climber, especially the person seconding! You use it to remove any jammed gear on the route. To avoid losing it, secure the key to your harness or rope with a carabiner or piece of cord.

RACKED WITH EDELRID PURE WIRE £8

DMM DYNATEC SLINGS

Slings are every trad climber’s best friend. Use to create belays and anchors, but also as protection by threading or looping them over rock. A couple of 60cm and 120cm slings plus one 240cm sling will take you a long way. Made from Dynatec, these DMM ones off er several advantages over traditional nylon: they’re lighter, absorb less water and are less susceptible to UV degradation.