[ GETTING ]
LO ST IN
AND
F O UN D
S IN GA POR E I I .
still by Elly
a little
PR E FACE I’ve always been fascinated by cultures; especially how they relate and interact with each others. Through my four-month stay in Singapore in the spring of 2016, I was able to observe and document some of these inspiring results of cultural exchange and human interactions. Although I was born and raised in Taiwan and somewhat familiar with the local environment, I was learning something new every single moment during my adventure in Southeast Asia. I wish this book would spark an interest for you, and eventually to give a different perspective than a regular travel guidebook.
D ED I C AT E T O
O LD & NE W F R IE N DS for all the amazing people I’ve m e t a l o n g t h e w a y.
A Hindu Ritual
Annual
celebration of the youth god and destroyer of evil, Subramaniam, by the Tamil communities around Southeast Asia; usually held in January/February and in Singapore a parade will occur from Little India to Dohby Ghaut. Some male devotees carry kavadis that’s connected to their body through piercing/metal spikes, females would have a pot of milk on their head while walking to another Hindu temple. The government did allow live music to be played during the 2016 procession after 40 years of prohibition. Many of the Indian migrants here are from southern India or Sri Lanka region, therefore Tamil is one of the four official languages of the country.
It’s Breakfast Time!
One
of my absolute favorite things to do in Singapore is to get breakfast at a traditional kopitiam, which means coffee shop in Hokkien. A regular set of breakfast items including kaya toast, soft boiled eggs, and a cup of kopi or teh tarik. Kaya is a type of coconut jam often flavored and colored by green pandan leaves, a plant that’s widely used in Southeast Asian dessert or dishes. Local coffee is called kopi and usually sweetened by creamy condensed milk, if you don’t give specific instructions. Teh Tarik means poured tea and it’s basically milk tea created by Indian immigrants around the area. I recommend to check out the original Ya-kun kaya toast location in Chinatown or Tong Ah eating house where you can see them preparing the food, just like the old time.
Chinese, Indian, Malay, Eurasian
Singapore is truly a multiracial and multicultural country,
with the majority of population being Chinese descendants. Main influences of culture including Chinese, Indian, Malay, and British colonial; reflecting in all aspects of the society including language, religion, food, and so on. You could pretty much assume that everyone from Singapore are bilingual or trilingual since English is the main working language, but people usually have their own native tongue at home - therefore another nonofficial language Singlish is widely spoken by locals and was created by combining different dialects and daily phrases together. So even though it is just another form of English, don’t be surprised if you can’t understand when you hear it!
(Street) Food Market
Looking
for authentic and unique Singaporean flavors? A hawker center is where you should be. Street food has always been an important element of Southeast Asian cultures, however, due to rapid urbanization and hygienic issues during the 1950s and 1960s, the government in Singapore decided to build one open air structure in each neighborhood to house and organize these unlicensed street hawkers. They can be found pretty much everywhere around the island, my favorite spots are Tiong Bahru Market, Maxwell, and Albert Centre at Bugis. It is often combined with a morning market for fresh produce. *Illustrations show top eats for hawker food. *A hawker is a person who travel around to sell goods on the street.
1923 - 2015
Everyone
in Singapore knows about this man, who is considered as the country’s founding father. He was a key role of the separation from Malaysia, and also the first prime minister after gaining independence. During his position, he successfully transformed Singapore from “a third world to the first world“ in just three decades less than a generation. Although some might argue his strict governing policies control and restrict freedom and some basic human rights of its citizens, people respect and honor this legendary leader for his irreplaceable contribution. This legacy and great speaker just passed away a year ago, on 23rd of March, 2015. *Time Magazine dedicated a cover for him because of his influential act on Asian/world economy. * March 23rd has been made into National LKY Day
A Life on Water
Port of Singapore first rose when the Great Britain decid-
ed to make it into a major harbor at the strait of Malacca, alongside with Penang and city of Malacca, Malaysia. Thousands of immigrants from nearby countries came to these ports in search for a better life and random opportunities, with no idea what’s going to happen in the future, or if they would be able to make it back home safely and successfully; just like the old American Dreams. Singapore is the only well-maintained and active port now out of these three, however, the glorious and glamorous past still sits in every corner of Penang and Malacca. In Georgetown, Penang, some early immigrants built their houses on water near the shore since they were not allowed to live in the city. After generations, local government has given them authorized addresses and acknowledgment of these “floating” neighborhoods.
Strait Settlement 18-20th Century
Peranakan generally means descendants of Chinese im-
migrants who settled and married local Malays during the colonial period at the Strait of Malacca. In a peranakan community, baba are the men and nyonya are the women. The combination of Malay culture and Chinese traditions are iconic and has flourished into its own identity. Recent years, peranakan/nyonya cuisine has been a big hit in Singapore due to the rich and unique flavors and blending of ingredients. However, people still say that the best dishes are prepared in a home kitchen by nyonya women. There are many museums or old mansions dedicated to preserve peranakan culture, so take a look or just go taste it! *Illustrated on the left, Blue Mansion is a peranakan landmark in Penang.
Religions in Southeast Asia
Religious practices in Singapore are as diverse as its peo-
ple. Hindu and Muslim cultures are two major elements I’ve gotten more familiar with during my visit. In the city, you can spot temples and churches standing in harmony with each other, and everyone is welcome to visit or worship at these locations which doesn’t happen in some other parts of the world. Many of these places provide a spiritual oasis , shelter, or a touch of home for new comers at a foreign land. After traveling around the region, I have to say that Singapore does a really good job on bringing people with different backgrounds together, while maintaining the uniqueness of everyone. *Batu cave is a Hindu sacred site near Kuala Lumper, Malaysia, where the dominant religion is Islam.
Capital of Malaysia
For me, Kuala Lumpur was an interesting spot to observe
a different style of Muslim culture and then compare it with Turkey, another major Islamic country I’ve visited. KL is recognized by the modern day Petronas Twin Towers, mixed in with some British colonial buildings and many mosques. Mosques in Turkey were designed to give you a grand and dynamic feeling; however, the ones in Southeast Asia are usually smaller and felt more approachable. Due to the recent attacks by ISIS, Islam followers I’ve encountered really wanted to clarify their religious believes. In some countries/areas women are still not allowed into a mosque or non-believers are banned from getting close to a mosque during worshiping periods, but usually not in big cities like Singapore and Kuala Lumper.
Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Borobudur
is the world’s largest Buddhist monument located in Central Java, near an old Muslim kingdom called Yogyakarta. It was established more than a thousand years ago when different religions existed in true harmony. After the Javanese conversion to Islam it was abandoned and no longer served as a worshiping center. Nearby in the special region of Yogyakarta, a sultan (or a king) still resides in a palace complex inside the city; where you can still observe a more conventional Javanese culture and lifestyle. Often times your experience at an unfamiliar place might be chaotic and confusing, but remember to bring an open mind for cultural differences. Don’t turn your head away, you will see beautiful things at the end!
So wha t e l se ...? Checklist from an insider.
Here
are some of my personal favorites of Singapore, it might be a place, a dish, or a thing but not going to spoil the story here :) Just research and create your own adventure! Tiong Bahru
Pulau Ubin
Keong Saik Rd.
Car Free Sunday
Satay Street
Haji Lane
Zam zam
Joo Chiat/Katong
Outdoor Theatre
Bugis Street
Bengawan Solo
Swee Choon
National Gallery
Golden Mile
East Cost Park
Be sure to check it out when you get a chance. HAVE FUN !