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Golden Hour at Athens Riviera
Later on, when Delos was highly populated, Mykonos became very important as a significant port for supplies and transit. It was also an important cultural and religious centre, and many travelled frequently between the two islands. During the time of the Roman occupation and the Middle Ages, Mykonos was part of the Roman Empire and then the Byzantine Empire. The Byzantines defended it against the Arabs in the 7th century and maintained control until the 13th century, when it came under the control of the Ghizzi dynasty in 1207 and was eventually handed to the Venetians in 1390. In 1537, still under the Venetians, Mykonos was attacked by Hayreddin Barbarossa, a legendary admiral of Suleiman the Magnificent. The Ottomans took over, imposing a system of self-governance which consisted of a governor and an appointed council of syndics. After centuries of foreign rule, the Mykonians took over a leading role in the Greek Revolution of 1821 against the Ottomans, spearheaded by acclaimed national heroine Mando Mavrogenous. Mykonos was part of the free Greek State since the first day of its independence in 1830. Sailors and merchants quickly revived the island’s economy, consolidating trade relations with South Russia, Moldavia and Wallachia. However, after the opening of the Corinth Canal in 1904 and with the beginning of the First World War, Mykonos’ well-developed economy started to decline and, consequently, many locals left to find work in mainland Greece or abroad – especially in the United States. Yet, it wasn’t long before tourism rose as the answer to the problems of the local economy, starting with significant archaeological excavations taking place in Delos in 1873, which brought fascinating Ancient Greek artefacts and structures to light. As a result, lovers of Greek history and mythology began taking an interest in the region and, along with the ancient ruins, started to explore the island of Mykonos and partake in the celebrated Greek hospitality. In the 1930s, Mykonos started to become a popular destination for famous artists, politicians and wealthy Europeans, who had already noticed the island. Those were the first days of Mykonos as a hotspot for the international jet-set. After the dark years of World War II, Mykonos came back to life to blossom into the stunning cosmopolitan destination of the rich and famous – and not only – that we know it as today.
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THE ISLAND WAS A WELL-GUARDED SECRET BEFORE THE YACHTS AND CRUISE SHIPS OF THE SIXTIES BEGAN TO DROP ANCHOR ON THEIR WAY TO VIEW THE MAGNIFICENT ANCIENT RUINS OF DELOS.
CHRISTOS DRAZOS
CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH MYKONOS BOUTIQUE
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FIRST-ROW SEAT
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Ode to Santorini
SANTORINI’S CHARM HIDES IN ITS HISTORY. THE UNIQUE LANDSCAPE HAS EXTRAORDINARY STORIES TO TELL, WHICH IT WHISPERS TO TRAVELERS EAGER TO TRULY EXPLORE THE ISLAND.
Text by DESPOINA SAMPSON
Known for its iconic caldera, unique and colorful sand or pebble beaches resulting from solidified lava, whitewashed houses and deep indigo sea, nowhere on earth quite compares with the wild natural beauty of this infamous volcanic island; an island steeped in the legend of the lost Atlantis that has captivated so many imaginations through the decades. Drawing visitors from all four corners of the globe who flock to the island to view its monumental sunsets, awe inspiring views, cuisine and wines, it is no wonder that Santorini has been voted one of the most beautiful islands in the world time and time again. The island’s incredible beauty is evident before you even arrive. An astonishing sight from the air – with its collection of five islands floating on the endless blue of the Aegean Sea almost like pieces >
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HOLIDAYS IN SANTORINI ARE THE DREAM OF A LIFETIME FOR MANY PEOPLE, WITH THE ISLAND FAMOUS FOR ITS IMPRESSIVE CALDERA, VOLCANO AND ROMANTIC SUNSETS.
of a jigsaw puzzle, it’s hard not to feel drawn to the magical legend of Atlantis – everything below seems to have a story to tell while the flat glistening blue sea hints at hidden worlds lost deep down below. As the airplane prepares to land, a dazzling mosaic of colors gradually becomes visible, from the grey and red rock face of the crater – Caldera from the Greek for “cauldron”, studded with windmills, the island’s trademark blue-domed churches and terraces of sugar-cube whitewashed settlements that seem to run along the rim of the Caldera almost like a ribbon. Probably Santorini’s most famous image, these whitewashed settlements with Caldera views in Firostefani, Fira, Imerovigli and Oia are built into the rock face from ancient cave dwellings to now boast exclusive hillside hotels showcasing infinity pools and luxury spas, accompanied by boutique shops, bars, nightclubs and restaurants. Today, the aftereffects of the dramatic earthquakes of the past represent the island’s two main sources of wealth, namely tourism and agriculture, with the latter owing its success to the island’s unique and very fertile volcanic soil and perfect climate allowing it to give birth to excellent produce such as its fava beans, cherry tomatoes, capers and famous goat’s milk cheese known as chloro. What Santorini is best known for, however, is its wine production which includes indigenous white grape varieties such as Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani, while other wines produced are using international varieties as well as its unique reds made from its indigenous red grapes known as Mandalieria and Mavrotragano. With approximately 1,200 hectares of vines scattered around Santorini, the wines are stored in traditional kanaves (cellars), the most well known being at Megalochori, Mesa Gonia, Messaria, Pyrgos and Oia. Naturally, any mention of Santorini has to include its magical sunsets. As one of the best places to view majestic, awe inspiring sunsets, few destinations in the world can match the sheer beauty of Santorini’s sunset views. With many incredible vantage points along the edge of the Caldera, visitors agree that sunsets from Santorini make for a truly surreal experience which sees the skies of the Aegean turn into a riotous symphony of pinks and reds as the day slowly comes to a close, beckoning the arrival of the night ahead.
TRYFON GEORGOPOULOS
New Technologies. New Services. New Performance.
CHOOSE THE TOUR OF YOUR LIFE
AN AWARD-WINNING TEAM OF SANTORINI INSIDERS INITIATE YOU TO THE VERY BEST OF WHAT THE ISLAND HAS TO OFFER, WITH TAILOR-MADE, DIVERSE AND FASCINATING EXPERIENCES YOU WON’T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE.
Treat yourself to a taste of the true essence of the most popular island destination in the world with Blue Shades of Greece. These talented travel experts organize and personalize for you a series of private, semi-private and fully tailor-made Santorini tours that have been so well received they have earned multiple Travel Awards – and won the hearts of hundreds of visitors through the years. Their mission? To make each visitor’s experience special, immersing them in the island’s spirit, history and unique aura in a way that works in tandem with each person’s unique preferences and interests. From the most magical landmarks of this sun-kissed volcanic oasis to private wine rituals paired with exceptional gastronomy, your time with Blue Shades of Greece will be unforgettable. This tour operator’s strongest point, and what really makes them stand out, is the unique way they can adapt and adjust every aspect of your tour to what is important to you. These choose your own path experiences are stress-free, whisking you away to those nooks and crannies of the island that will speak to you – including its best-kept secrets that only locals know. From traditional wineries to picture-perfect, soul-affirming seascapes, this is the tour of a lifetime, and the people of Blue Shades of Greece will make it happen for you, with their professionalism, knowledge and contagious passion for Santorini.
t: +30 22860 25641 e: info@blueshadesofgreece.com www.blueshadesofgreece.com
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Six Senses of Oaxaca, Mexico
MIXED MEDIA ARTIST PATRICIA GARCIA-GOMEZ VISITS AN EASYGOING AND VIBRANT DESTINATION IN MEXICO THAT OWES ITS POPULARITY TO ITS CULTURAL, ARTISTIC, AND CULINARY LEGACIES.
Text and images by PATRICIA GARCIA-GOMEZ
If you are lucky, you will run into a street procession in honor of a patron saint, or a candela parade (a joyful Oaxacan parade that traditionally kicks-off weddings, graduations and other community celebrations).
As i sit to write about oaxaca, Mexico, I am thinking about the things that don’t change. The things that are not fleeting. To travel, we need not go somewhere with our body. We can go there with our mindset, with our senses, with words, with a sound or song, and, of course, with an image. We can go there with a smell, or a food, a story recounted from a friend. To me Oaxaca is all of these things. It is both a mindset and a place bursting with flavors, aromas, songs, and stories to be discovered. It’s people, the generous keepers of all these wonderful things they are so happy to share with you. It is a place you don’t want to read too much about before you go. Oaxaca is not a place to experience by moving from point a to point b, or restaurant to restaurant (although you could, and it may even be extraordinary). It is a place whose soul lives in the in-between spaces. And whose beauty reveals itself as you let your eyes and heart adjust. Set out on walks without purpose. Start higher up on the hill and wander down toward the cathedral of Santo Domingo (go inside) and Calle Alcalá (the main pedestrian street). Take any side street. It is very likely that you will run into a street procession in honor of a patron saint, or a candela parade (a joyful Oaxacan parade that traditionally kicks-off weddings, graduations and other community celebrations). If you are so lucky, stay with it. Follow the song, the smell of incense, the reverent voices, the cheers of the crowd. Celebration is one of Oaxaca’s most powerful charms. Make (daily) pilgrimages to its markets. The 20 de Noviembremarket sprawls with treasures, and the small, organic and super cute La Cosecha market is a great place try Oaxaca’s much loved and hearty cacao drink called Tejate (recognized by the large vats of chocolaty liquid that women are stirring). My favorite is getting lost in the magical chaos of the Tlacalula market on Sunday, a melting pot of people from the surrounding pueblos. In the air, the fragrance of roasting corn, the sweet-tangy-pepper of local chilis, ripe fruit waters, and richly colored moles. The women of Tlacalula had me spellbound, with their elegant waist-length braids, tied in colorful ribbons, their woven baskets sometimes balanced and carried on their heads, and their exquisitely-embroidered dresses. …From the markets, fill your room with fresh flowers, because you can. Venture into the nearby pueblos. Oaxaca state has seven each-entirely-different regions,16 indigenous groups, and an uncountable number of master artisans. As a starting point, visit the masterful weavers >
Oaxaca is a place whose soul lives in the in-between spaces. And whose beauty reveals itself as you let your eyes and heart adjust.
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of Teotitlán del Valle. See how they make a deep red-purple dye from the cochineal insect that burrows in cactus, or a deep indigo from the anil shrub. Or, forage for mushrooms in the Sierra Norte after hiking the forest that is rich with wild orchids, vibrant mosses, and larger-than-you agaves. Discover the designers, makers and vibrant creative culture. Some are making things just as they have been done for centuries, and some are modernizing deep-seated traditions to create entirely new expressions. Here are a few of my favorites - you can travel to their stores from your homes: Paz Home (candles hand dipped in 100% beeswax and natural dyes, pazhome.com; Lanii (gifts and artisanal crafts, lanii.com.mx); and, colectivo 1050 (artisanal ceramics, 1050grados.com).
Picnic on top of the world at the petrified cascades and mineral
pools of Hierve el Agua. Take with you… homemade sourdough from Pan Con Madre or Boulenc, mushroom pate from Suculenta, chocolate from Mama Pácha. Last but not least, drink mezcal. If there were a national spirit of Oaxaca it would be mezcal, a distilled alcoholic beverage not unlike tequila, also made from the agave plant. Originating in Oaxaca, “mezcal” is a Nahuatl mexicalli word that means “oven-cooked agave.” You can drink mezcal in town, or you can travel with Mezcounting (mezcounting.com), who runs rural artisanal gastronomic tours throughout Oaxaca, and sip it amongst the agaves with the artisans who make it. Why not both. And, as an extra a bonus, be inspired at IAGO (Oaxacan Graphic Art Institute), a one-of-kind art library created by Oaxaca’s beloved artist, Francisco Toledo. The library’s entrance is free. Settle in, pick any book. Sit in the courtyard. Collect new stories.
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REMARKABLE VIEWS
SLS Brickell takes its standards of style, luxury and service to transform Downtown Miami’s skyline.
PRIVATE JOURNAL NO2
Miami Star City
BOASTING AN EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF MUSEUMS AND ART SPACES IN ADDITION TO PROMINENT ARCHITECTS, CHEFS AND DESIGNERS, MIAMI IS GOING THROUGH A CULTURAL REBIRTH.
Miami has been redefining itself as a destination in recent decades. Its one-dimensional ‘90s image of the summer and endless parties is long gone. Of course, entertainment remains a defining aspect of Miami’s character, but for every party around one of its charming pools there is also a museum or an interesting gourmet restaurant. A lively community of artists, designers and chefs as well as visionary entrepreneurs are elevating the city to a multidimensional destination of international caliber. The start of Miami’s new path came in 2002 with Art Basel, then directed by Sam Keller, which brought together art from 160 galleries from 23 countries, attracting 30,000 visitors to the city. The initiative evolved from a “private party” to a contemporary art institution with global appeal and in 2015, under Noah Horowitz, it featured 267 galleries from 32 countries, welcoming more than 77,000 visitors – collectors, curators, trustees and patrons from more than 200 museums and institutions from all over the world. Today, the once two-day celebration of art lasts a full week, stretching across the city. It takes place every December, as does Design Miami – the forum started in 2005 by visionary entrepreneur and real estate developer Craig Robins and design consultant (of Greek origin) Ambra Medda. It is the most important event on the collectible design calendar, with furniture, light fixture and design object exhibitions from the 20th and 21st centuries that are fit for a museum. Robins was also the man who shaped the Miami Design District about 15 years ago – and who also contributed in the improvement of Art Deco District in the early ‘90s – through buying and renewing properties in the area that would become a fashion Mecca. Its evolution was further boosted when Robins’ company, Dacra, joined forces with L Real Estate, an investment company owned by LVMH Group. Christian Louboutin, Marni, Margiela, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Céline and Tom Ford all operate architecturally interesting flagship stores in the Design District, right next to installations and sculptures by Urs Fischer, Xavier Veilhan, Zaha Hadid, John Baldessari and art spaces such as the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, with its characteristic futuristic facade made of glass and metal. At the other end of the spectrum is Wynwood, transformed by entrepreneur and art patron Tony Goldman from a mass of industrial warehouses to an open-air street art museum, attracting retailers, restaurants and, of course, housing developers. The “Wynwood Walls” are walls full of colorful graffiti created in 2009 and co-curated by Goldman and art dealer Jeffrey Deich. Wynwood boasts the biggest concentration of street art in the United States, with more than 50 artists from 16 countries having covered 7,500 square meters of wall. At the same time, the area hosts galleries, artists’ studios and private collections such as the Rubell Family Collection, which features pieces by Basquiat, Haring, Koons and Kusama. Wynwood’s creative energy attracts startups as well as established companies like a magnet. It’s also blossomed into a foodie destination with restaurants like Joey’s, Wynwood Kitchen & Bar, Asian KYU by Michael Lewis, as well as cult eateries Zak the Baker, Coyo Taco, Fireman Derek’s Pies and Salty Donut. Brickell is markedly different but equally stimulating. Miami’s financial center is one of the largest of its kind in the US. Known as the Manhattan
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WHEN IN MIAMI
Designed by Oscar-winning duo Baz Luhrmann and wife Catherine Martin, Faena Hotel Miami Beach is as fantastical, glamourous and Hollywoodesque as you’d imagine.
of the South, Brickell has the most international banks in the country. Its residents enjoy a lively, friendly area with luxurious buildings and remarkable views. Brickell and Miami Avenue, the main road arteries, are packed with stores, restaurants and clubs, while new arrival Brickell City Center complex has already completed the first stage of its construction, featuring office buildings, residential towers, a hotel and a large commercial and entertainment hub. It’s all very impressive, but let’s not forget South Beach. After all, summer in Miami is year-round and this is the most exciting beach in the world. From the Art Deco architecture that put the city on the map in the ‘30s to the relaxed energy of Ocean Drive, the endless kilometers of white sand, and the turquoise waters, the Miami hotel scene includes icons like the Delano, designed by Philippe Starck and featuring one of the most impressive pools in the world.
THE INSIDER VIEW
About a decade ago, Anastasia Koutsioukis – AKA Mrs. Mandolin – left a successful career in New York to launch Mandolin restaurant with her husband, Ahmet. This Aegean bistro in the Design District used to be somewhat of a secret spot for creatives of the city who would enjoy the wonderful ambience, Mediterranean flavors and the company of the owner herself, who stands out with her style, glamorous personality and cosmopolitan air. “Ten years ago, Miami was a completely different city. The beach and its matchless beauty were there, but it wasn’t developed. Some parts were almost derelict, even depressing. In the past five years, developers have seen Miami’s incredible potential, and the city’s skyline has been constantly changing”, she explains. Luxurious residential buildings such as the 57-floor The Jade Signature on Sunny Isles – completed last spring by well-known architects Herzog de Meuron – or high-rise One Thousand Museum by Zaha Hadid Architects at Brickell, and investments exceeding $10 billion are reshaping downtown Miami at light speeds. “The city has an exciting art, culture and culinary scene. To get a good taste of its multifaceted character, start by walking South Pointe Park all the way to the end of the pier, the southernmost edge of the beach. It’s ideal for picnics, or for champagne, steak and lobster at Smith & Wollensky restaurant. Visit the Perez Art Museum Miami, which houses an exceptional collection of 2,000 pieces by American and Latin American artists. It is designed by Pritzker Prize laureate architects Herzog & De Meuron and
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ZAHA HADID’S FINAL MASTERPIECE
One Thousand Museum is one of the most gracious luxury condos in Miami and Miami Beach.
offers excellent vistas of Biscayne Bay and beautiful hanging gardens. Make sure you also add Bass Museum on South Beach and Vizcaya Museum & Gardens at Coconut Grove to your list, too. Rent a boat – the best way to discover the multiple sides of this city’s beauty is by sea. Spend your morning on the beach but leave early to explore the center. Design District, Wynwood and Brickell are only a 15-minute drive away. Think like a local, because there are many hidden gems that have lasted the test of time. For shopping, wander around the Design District or Bal Harbour, and dedicate your Sunday to Lincoln Road. Head to The Webster, a multibrand store housed in a three-floor Art Deco building, to Bal Harbour Shops – an open-air mall by Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Ave – and En Avance, which specializes in emerging high end designers. Also visit Bossa Concept – a multibrand fashion boutique focused on Brazilian designers – and Kith Miami for collectible sneakers and streetwear. For books and publications, the independent Books & Books and Taschen Store Miami on Lincoln Rd stand out. For children’s clothes and toys, opt for Genius Jones. If you’re looking for homeware, the Design District is perfect, while there are wonderful antiques at Antique & Design Mall Miami on Biscayne Blvd and at Gary Rubinstein, Gustavo Oliver and Stripe Vintage Modern on 125th St. For beauty and wellness, choose Gee Beauty, Emena day spa and IGK – a hair salon in the Design District. The Four Seasons Surf Club spa is excellent, while Faena hotel’s spa offers interesting treatments and hamam. It’s difficult to single out one of the restaurants, but if I had to choose I’d say the Surf Club by chef Thomas Keller at the iconic Miami Surf Club, which dates back to 1930. This restaurant serves excellent food and pays tribute to historic cocktails and vintage spirits from the ‘50s. Another excellent choice is Azabu Miami Beach, the sibling of Michelin-starred NY restaurant, and, finally, Cecconi’s in the courtyard of Soho Beach House – a great place for pizza, pasta and Sunday brunch”. Nikos Nanou and Egidio Guerreri, owners of the successful Bakalo & Catari in Mykonos, fell in love with Miami at first sight. Citizens of the world and bon viveurs with an interest in gastronomy, architecture and art, they would return often to spend at least one week of holidays in the sun as part of every single one of their voyages to the United States or Latin America. In 2014, they decided to start spending their winters in Miami. “The weather is fantastic, just like the beginning of summer in Europe. The city has developed at a great rate, and it’s the second biggest financial center after New York. Dy-
ROBIN HILL WYNWOOD BID-MARY BETH KOETH
namic and international in character, Miami has residents who work in banking, business, real estate – not just tourism. Almost every other weekend there are festivals and opportunities to stay involved – Art Basel, food festivals, boat shows – attracting visitors of many persuasions from all over the world. Miami’s culinary evolution has been immense in the past decade, especially after 2010. On one hand, you have international names – Nobu, Hakkasan, Cipriani – and on the other, up-and-coming local chefs presenting novel ideas. There are still some small, amicable neighborhood restaurants, but these are not what defines this city. The hotels attract much of the attention with their extraordinary restaurants, from renovated ‘50s motels on South Beach to concept hotels such as EDITION, The Standard, or newcomer EAST, which has an excellent pool bar. Hotel bars also draw in much of the nightlife, as it tends to happen in the United States more than in Europe. For example, LIVING club at The Fontainebleau Miami Beach. There is also a great cycling route for visitors looking to get to know Miami: Ride through Venetian Causeway, passing through the islands and heading downhill to the beach, and then from Lincoln Rd to South Point Pier. It’s also worth spending a few hours to explore the history of Art Deco, and of course to visit Wynwood, which has also developed an interesting culinary scene. If you’re into sports, take a kayak or canoe to Keys while, in addition to the shopping spots above, you can also head to the new Brickell City Center mall, whose eateries – in addition to the retail brands and new designers – are fascinating.
