FOODS OF CONFLICT
SURVIVAL FOODS OF WAR, SCARCITY, AND OPPRESSION Alex Halliwell
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FOODS OF CONFLICT SURVIVAL FOODS OF WAR, SCARCITY, AND OPPRESSION Alex Halliwell
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FOODS OF CONFLICT Copyright Š (2020) Alex Halliwell, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without permission of copy right holder. Simon & Schuster Attn: Subsidiary Rights, 14th floor 1230 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10020 or fax your request on official letterhead to: (212)632 8099
This book is dedicated to my parents and grandparents. Thank you for teaching me about my heritage and to value where my family comes from.
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B O R N O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
EQUIPMENT
INGREDIENTS
01
07
08
WAR
OPPRESSION
SCARCITY
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24
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16 Cork, Tie & Lute a Jar
26 Pruno, Prison Wine
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17
Isinglass Glue
30 Fried Chitlins
46 Pemmican
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Nicolas Appert's Preserved Artichokes
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47 Sledging Biscuits
22 Supercrema Gianduja
Spam Misubi
Shackleton's Hooch
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Sugar Pie
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Milk Toast
this, is about you
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YOU ARE BORN OF RESILIENCE
As a human being, you carry the heritage of beings with extraordinary grit, developed through hardship. Motivated by the instinct to survive your ancestors exercised creative problem solving, endurance, and hope. Their blood runs through your veins and is part of you. Learning and becoming aware of what the people who came before you, went through, will help you increase your resilience.
Life may not come with a map, but everyone will experience twists and turns, from everyday challenges to traumatic events with more lasting impact, like the death of a loved one, a life-altering accident or a serious illness. Each change affects people differently, bringing a unique flood of thoughts, strong emotions and uncertainty. Yet people generally adapt well over time to life-changing situations and stressful situations, in part thanks to resilience.
Psychologists define resilience as the process of adapting well in the face of adversity, trauma, tragedy, threats or significant sources of stress — such as family and relationship problems, serious health problems, or workplace and financial stressors. As much as resilience involves “bouncing back” from these difficult experiences, it can also involve profound personal growth. While these adverse events, much like rough river waters, are certainly painful and difficult, they don’t have to determine the outcome of your life. There are many aspects of your life you can control, modify and grow with. That’s the role of resilience. Becoming more resilient not only helps you get through difficult circumstances, it also empowers you to grow and even improve your life along the way.
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GROWING IS IN YOUR NATURE
It's human nature to resist change—particularly when it comes in the form of adversity or challenges. But change is inevitable, and developing the trait of resilience helps us not only survive change, but also learn, grow, and thrive in it. Here are 10 ways to develop your resilience so you're ready when you need your strength the most. 01. If your way is not working, change it. Resilient people do not make the same mistake again and again. They're willing to be honest about why they failed and they take the time to think about what didn't work. 02. Master your emotions before they manage you. Resilient people have a positive outlook. They remind themselves that much of what they're facing is temporary, and that they've overcome setbacks before and can do it again. Resilient people focus on what they can learn from the experience. 03. Stay tough. Resilient people face their fears and have an adaptive attitude that lets them focus on possibilities even in the worst of times. The tougher the situation, the tougher they become. 04. Keep growing. Life does not get easier or more forgiving; we get stronger and more resilient. Resilient people are constantly becoming braver and more courageous. They know that life is not what happens to us but what happens within us.
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There is no perfect path to resiliency. But there is practice and knowledge. Did you know studies show children who know the stories of their grandparents and their ancestors, do better in school, and have better self-esteem overall? When we know the
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05. Stay prepared. Resilient people work on solving a problem rather than becoming paralyzed by negativity. They keep planning for the future even when things aren't working out.
stories of those who came before us,
06. Pick yourself up, as many times as it takes. Resilient people understand that failure is not from falling down but from refusing to get up. They have the capacity to adapt successfully and the tenacity to never, ever quit.
we begin to believe we have potential to achieve, even as they did.
07. Reward the small wins. Resilient people believe in themselves. They work hard and take joy in the small wins that give them strength. 08. Keep giving. Even in the toughest of times resilient people find a way to care for others, because sometimes being selfless is the best way to discover your own strength. 09. Build relationships. Resilient people maintain strong and supportive relationships, both personal and professional. As a result, they have caring, supportive people around them in times of crisis. 10. Create your own meaning. Resilient people search for meaning. They develop a “personal why� that helps them have a clear sense of purpose, which helps them view setbacks from a broader perspective.
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Being innovative is part of being resilient
Title [Modern cooking] Photographer: Ewing, J. G
Summary: Woman separating an egg. Created / Published: c1910.
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Thrive in your ability to create solutions when your traditional equipment or tools are not available to accomplish your task.
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Title [Camp Kearny,Cal.
Notes: Photograph published in
Anti-onion� gas mask]
The Philadelphia Evening Public
Summary: Photograph shows a soldier
Ledger, May 24, 1919.
peeling onions at Camp Kearny. Created / Published: [between 1917 and 1919]
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Medium: 1 negative : glass ; 5 x 7 in. or smaller.
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EQUIPMENT
From the day we are born, all our actions are steps in an experiment, and we get wiser as we go along. Our decisions become more informed through our experiences and the experiences of others. Being in the kitchen is no different. What did you do when you didn’t have the right size measuring cups? How did you solve the problem of not having buttermilk for that pancake recipe? Have you ever opened up a can, or wine bottle without the most ideal tools? KETTLE
POTS
HEAT
SPOONS
KNIFE
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________
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________
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You are aware at this point that this is a life of making-do with what you’ve got. Use what you know about how things work in the world and generalize the knowledge to your culinary endeavors. Be willing to change your ways when someone shares their knowledge with you. Approach challenges in your kitchen with genuine curiosity.
Listed to the right are some items that are needed in the majority of cooking endeavors. In some recipes additional equipment is needed, and will be listed on the individual recipe page. Some recipes require rare supplies or equipment that are unique to the environment where the recipe originated.
INGREDIENTS OF RESILIENCE
Everyone has a baseline
PSYCHOLOGICAL FUNCTIONING
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Every individual experiences stressful life events. In some cases acute or chronic stress leads to depression and other psychiatric disorders, but most people are resilient to such effects. Recent research has begun to identify the environmental, genetic, epigenetic and neural mechanisms that underlie resilience, and has shown that resilience is mediated by adaptive changes in several neural circuits involving numerous neurotransmitter and molecular pathways. These changes shape the functioning of the neural circuits that regulate This graph shows how our reward, fear, emotion reactivity and social behavior, baseline psychological functioning which together are thought to mediate successful can increase after experiencing a stressor. Initially psychological coping with stress. functioning goes down under
Resilience refers to a person’s ability to adapt success- stress. After responding with resilience, our baseline can return fully to acute stress, trauma or more chronic forms to normal, and in some cases, become of adversity. A resilient individual has thus been tested higher than it was initially. by adversity and continues to demonstrate adaptive psychological and physiological stress responses, or psychobiological allostasis’. It is only in recent years that significant scientific and technological advances have made it possible to begin to understand the underlying biological processes associated with resilient phenotypes.
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New baseline established
RESILIENCE
SHOCK OR STRESSOR
RESPONSE TIME RESILIENCY NOTES
Help others
Foster hope
Embrace healthy thoughts
Learn from your past
Be proactive
Seek enjoyment
Find purpose
Exercise curiosity
Maintain perspective
Practice mindfulness
Accept change
Seek connection and prioritize relationships
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BORN OF WAR
Title [Food Administration, U.S. War Kitchen] Photographer: Harris & Ewing, Created / Published: 1917 Control Number: 2016868537
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“Food will win the war” was a phrase coined during World War I. Eat local, meatless Mondays, go wheatless, more fruits and vegetables, less white sugar— many of the things we hear a lot about today Americans did during the First World War. The United States Food Administration, created in 1917 and headed by Herbert Hoover, campaigned to convince Americans to voluntarily change their eating habits in order to have enough food to feed our military and starving civilians in Europe. This included conserving wheat, meat, sugar, and fats, so those items could be sent overseas. Changing eating habits during World War One is only one example of how war changes our everyday decisions about food. Through war, our species has come up with some of the most ingenious solutions to make food stretch and bring needed nutrition to our warriors, soldiers, and protectors. You come from a heritage of creative problem solvers and food inventors.
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NAPOLÉON BONAPARTE
History doesn’t forget a man like Napoleon Bonaparte, and neither does the culinary world, which still feels his influence 200 years later. Napoleon I (1769—1821) was a general during the French Revolution who rose to become emperor of the French “Empereur des Francais”. He conquered most of Europe while foreign opponents in Britain, Russia, Austria and Prussia declared him “an enemy of humanity.” But he apparently ate well. His reign at the turn of the 18th century saw the rise of French haute cuisine. He’s credited with the saying, “An army marches on its stomach” and for fostering the idea of canning as a way to preserve food. “I fear insurrection when they are caused by hunger,” he was quoted as saying. “I would be less afraid of a battle against an army of two hundred thousand.”
Title [Napoleon] Contributor Names Bain News Service, Publisher: Library of Congress Control Number: 2014681570
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NICOLAS APPERT, INVENTOR OF CANNING Nicolas Appert was the man who revolutionized food preservation under the military direction of Napoleon. This innovation was born of war, and revolutionized access to nutrients, not only to soldiers on the front lines, but eventually to all people. We shall now describe the methods which he employed to secure his bottles so as to be air tight previously to their being placed in the boiling water as mentioned above As the complete exclusion of the external air from his bottles is essential to the success of the process his first care is to have the bottles or jars quite sound and as wide mouthed as the corks would allow He employed no corks but those of the very first To and when he had bottles made on purpose he had a projecting ring formed on the inside of the neck more effectually to compress the cork and make it tight
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Nicolas Appert’s Bottle
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cork, tie & lute a jar
EQUIPMENT
DIRECTIONS
1800’s Jar (Appert had bottles made on purpose he had a projecting ring formed on the inside of the neck)
01. The corking was very carefully performed the bottles were then inclosed in coarse linen or canvas bags to preserve them from being broken
1800’s Cork Wire Quicklime Skim milk Strips of linen
02. When he employed jars he was obliged to join several pieces of cork together to make a stopper large enough. This method was ingenious we shall notice it He joined together several pieces of cork with isinglass glue (recipe on next page. ) 03. When he wanted to use this glue he put some in a little pot over live coals warmed the pieces of cork and applied the glue to the surfaces with a brush he then bound the pieces together with string and let them in the sun or in a gentle heat for a fortnight when he cut them to the size of his jars having corked his jars or bottles 04. He then covered the corks and edge of the vessel with a lute made of quicklime slacked in the air and beat up with skimmed milk cheese to the thickness of paste this hardens very rapidly and withstands the heat of boiling water 05. Lastly he applied strips of linen to this paste and bound the whole down with two wires crossing each other If the bottles were to be sent to a distance he inclosed them in canvas bags pitched if necessary
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isinglass glue
EQUIPMENT
DIRECTIONS
Four drachms of isinglass
01. Dissolved four drachms of well beaten isinglass in eight ounces of water over the fire
8oz water Brandy Brush
02. Filtered the solution through linen and again put it on the fire to reduce it to one third of the quantity 03. Add an ounce of full proof brandy and left the whole on the fire till it was reduced to three ounces 04. Set aside for later use 05. When its time to use this glue, put some in a little pot over live coals 06. Warmed the pieces of cork and apply the glue to the surfaces with a brush then bind the pieces of cork together with string and let them in the sun or in a gentle heat for a fortnight 07. Cut the glued cork to the size of the jars or bottles
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Title: Artichoke Artist:Jean Bernard Year:(1775–1883) Origin: Rijks Museum
It was there that Pietro found his biggest success. At the prompting of his younger brother, he began experimenting with cheaper alternatives to chocolate, an out-of-reach luxury in wartime Italy. He landed on a blend of molasses, hazelnut oil, coconut butter and a small amount of cocoa, which he wrapped in wax paper and sold around town. He called the mixture Giandujot, which traced back to gianduiotto, a similar confection that had been popularized under Napoleon.
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Nicolas Appert’s Preserved Artichokes
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Artichokes, fine specimens
01. Prepare the artichoke by taking off “the useless leaves”
Boiling water
02. Pare the artichokes
Cold water
03. Plunge them into boiling water (Appert does not include an amount of time for this step) 04. Immediately after, plunge the artichokes into cold water 05. Having drained them, put them into jars that are corked 06. Boil the corked jars for one hour
VARIATION, IN APPERT’S OWN WORDS An excerpt from his book The Art of Preserving All Kinds of Animal and Vegetable Substances for Several Years published in 1812. “To preserve artichokes cut (en quartiers,) I divide them (taking fine specimens) into eight pieces. I take out the choke and leave very few of the leaves. I plunge them into boiling water, and afterwards into fresh water. Having been drained, they are then placed over the fire in a saucepan, with a piece of fresh butter seasoning, and fine herbs. When half dressed, they are taken from the fire and set by to cool. They then are put in jars, which are corked, tied, luted &c. and place in the water-bath in which they receive half and hour’s boiling.”
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supercrema gianduja
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
1 1/2 cups hazelnuts
01. Place the peeled hazelnuts in the bowl of a large food process or fitted with an “S” blade, then process them into a creamy nut butter, stopping to scrape down the bowl if necessary. This process should take just about 5 minutes or less, and you should hear a “sloshing” sound when the hazelnut butter has reached a nice and runny consistency. Once you’ve got a smooth hazelnut butter, add the coconut sugar, cocoa powder, coconut oil, and 1/4 cup of water and process again until well combined.
1/2 cup coconut sugar 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, or more to taste 1 tablespoon melted coconut oil 6-8 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup (optional)
02. Taste the chocolaty butter at this point, and if you’d like it slightly sweeter, add 1 tablespoon of maple syrup. If it’s already sweet enough for your taste buds, add another tablespoon of water, instead. At this point, you’ll want to continue to process the mixture, adding one tablespoon of water at a time until your desired consistency is reached. I used 6 tablespoons of water total (1/4 cup + 2 extra tablespoons) plus the 1 tablespoon of maple syrup to achieve my favorite glossy-looking results. If the sugar hasn’t dissolved completely for you at this point, continue to process the batch until it’s very smooth. 03. Store the finished spread in a sealed container in the fridge for up to a week.
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It was there that Pietro found his biggest success. At the prompting of his younger brother, he began experimenting with cheaper alternatives to chocolate, an out-of-reach luxury in wartime Italy. He landed on a blend of molasses, hazelnut oil, coconut butter and a small amount of cocoa, which he wrapped in wax paper and sold around town. He called the mixture Giandujot, which traced back to gianduiotto, a similar confection that had been popularized under Napoleon.
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BORN OF OPPRESSION
Title [War Relocation Center] Published : March 1942 Photographer: Eliot Elisofon Contributor: The Life Picture Collection
Executive Order 9066 On February 19, 1942, shortly after the bombing of Pearl Harbor by Japanese forces, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed Executive Order 9066 with the intention of preventing espionage on American shores. Military zones were created in California, Washington and Oregon states with a large population of Japanese Americans—and Roosevelt’s executive order commanded the relocation of Americans of Japanese ancestry. Executive Order 9066 affected the lives about 117,000 people—the majority of whom were American citizens.
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PRUNO, PRISON WINE
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Take ten peeled oranges,
01. Squeeze the fruit into a small plastic bag
8 oz. of canned fruit cocktail
02. Put the juice along with the mashed oranges inside the bag
16 oz. of water
03. Add 16 oz. of water and seal the bag tightly and place the bag into your sink
40 to 60 cubes white sugar 6 teaspoons ketchup
04. Heat the bag with hot running water for 15 minutes 05. Wrap towels around the bag to keep it warm for fermentation 06. Stash the bag in your cell undisturbed for 48 hours 07. After the time has passed, add 40 to 60 cubes of white sugar, 6 teaspoons of ketchup, then heat again for 30 minutes 08. Secure the bag as done before and stash the bag undisturbed again for 72 hours 09. Reheat daily for 15 minutes. After 72 hours have gone by, use a spoon to skim off the mash, pour the remaining portion into two 18 oz. cups 10. May God have mercy on your soul.
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Title [Richmond, Virginia. Libby prison] Created / Published: April 6, 1865 Control Number: 2018671528
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Oppression has many forms. In many cultures oppression is used as a punishment for behavior that is deemed unacceptable by a the majority of the culture.
In 2005 Jarvis Masters poem went viral. In this poem he juxtaposes receiving a prison sentence and making Pruno, an alcoholic beverage using only ingredient available in prisons. The recipe in this book comes from Masters’s poem. Someone, in your line of ancestors survived through oppressions, whether for just or unjust reasons. They survived and where able to make it through. Resiliency plays role in making it through, even through something as punishing a prison.
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Fried Chitlins
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
2 pounds chitterlings
CLEAN THE CHITTERLINGS 01. Gather the ingredients.
FOR BOILING: 2 large onions (chopped) 2 bay leaves 2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 2 cloves garlic (minced) Optional: Other seasonings (as desired) FOR BREADING AND FRYING: 1 large egg (lightly beaten) 1 tablespoon water 1 cup cracker crumbs (fine) 3 cups canola oil (or amount needed for deep frying)
02. Soak the chitterlings in cold water in one side of your sink and use the other side for rinsing. Examine each one thoroughly, removing all foreign matter by hand under running water. 03. Repeatedly pick clean the chitterlings under running water, removing any fat and specks that you see. 04. Once you have cleaned a chitterling, place it in a clean bowl or another container. Repeat. 05. After all the chitterlings have been cleaned, they must be rinsed in several changes of cold water. Fill one side of the sink with enough water to cover the chitterlings. Then rinse in running water on the other side of the sink, repeating two or three more times until the water runs clear or nearly clear. 06. Once they have been cleaned, make sure to disinfect any surfaces, including your hands, that have come in contact with the chitterlings.
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SLAVERY IN AMERICA
Library of Congress Control Number: 2017794641 Title:[Tony Thompson, born in slavery. Greene County, Georgia] Photographer: Delano, Jack.
Within decades of being brought to the American colonies, Africans were stripped of human rights and enslaved as chattel, an enslavement that lasted more than two centuries. Slavers whipped slaves who displeased them. Clergy preached that slavery was the will of God. Scientists “proved” that blacks were less evolved-a subspecies of the human race. The invention of the cotton gin in 1793 solidified the importance of slavery to the South’s economy. By the mid-19th century, America’s westward expansion, along with a growing anti-slavery movement in the North, provoked a national debate over slavery that helped precipitate the American Civil War (1861–65). Though the Union victory freed the nation’s four million slaves, the legacy of slavery influenced American history, from the chaotic years of Reconstruction(1865–77) to the civil rights movement that emerged in the 1950s.
Title [Family of slaves at the Gaines’ house] Summary: Photograph shows African American slave family or families posed in front of wooden house, on the plantation of Dr. William F. Gaines, Hanover County, Virginia. Control Number: 96511694
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fried chitlins
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
2 pounds chitterlings
CLEAN THE CHITTERLINGS 01. Gather the ingredients.
FOR BOILING: 2 large onions (chopped) 2 bay leaves 2 teaspoons salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 2 cloves garlic (minced) Optional: Other seasonings (as desired)
FOR BREADING AND FRYING: 1 large egg (lightly beaten) 1 tablespoon water
02. Soak the chitterlings in cold water in one side of your sink and use the other side for rinsing. Examine each one thoroughly, removing all foreign matter by hand under running water. 03. Repeatedly pick clean the chitterlings under running water, removing any fat and specks that you see. 04. Once you have cleaned a chitterling, place it in a clean bowl or another container. Repeat. 05. After all the chitterlings have been cleaned, they must be rinsed in several changes of cold water. Fill one side of the sink with enough water to cover the chitterlings. Then rinse in running water on the other side of the sink, repeating two or three more times until the water runs clear or nearly clear. 06. Once they have been cleaned, make sure to disinfect any surfaces, including your hands, that have come in contact with the chitterlings.
1 cup cracker crumbs (fine) 3 cups canola oil (or amount needed for deep frying)
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Title [Tony Thompson, born in slavery. Greene County, Georgia] Photographer: Delano, Jack. Control Number: 2017794641
DIRECTIONS CONTINUED Boil the Chitterlings 07. Gather the ingredients. 08. Place the cleaned chitterlings in a large pot with 4 to 5 cups of water or enough to cover them by at least 2 inches. 09. Add onions, bay leaves, salt, pepper, garlic, and optional seasonings as desired. 10. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer uncovered for 2 hours or until chitterlings are tender, adding more water if necessary. 11. Using a slotted spoon, remove them from the water and drain in a colander until cool enough to handle. Bread and Fry the Chitterlings 12. Gather the ingredients. 13. In a small bowl, beat egg with 1 tablespoon water and set aside. 14. Spread cracker crumbs on a pieced of waxed paper and set aside. 15. Heat the oil in a deep fryer or Dutch oven to 370 F. 16. While the oil is heating, cut the boiled chitterlings into pieces about the size of oysters. Dip each piece into egg mixture, letting the excess drip off, and then roll in the cracker crumbs. 17. Fry in oil until golden brown. 18. Drain on paper towels. 19. Serve while hot with vinegar, hot sauce, rice, collard greens, and cornbread.
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RESILIENCE RUNS THROUGH YOUR BLOOD
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Title [San Francisco, April, 1942 relocation story Created / Published: April, 1942 Photo attributed to Dorothea Lange Control Number: 2001705929
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JAPANESE INTERNMENT
When Hawaii food historian Arnold Hiura traveled to California to talk about his book, Kau Kau: Cuisine & Culture in the Hawaiian Islands (Watermark Publishing, 2009), he was surprised to find many Japanese-Americans staking ethnicity claims on the quintessential Island snack favorite: the Spam musubi. “They feel they invented the Spam musubi,” he says. “They actually trace it to the internment camps.” Following the December 1941 Japanese attack on Oahu’s Pearl Harbor, more than 120,000 people of Japanese ancestry living on the U.S. mainland West Coast were imprisoned in remote internment camps in multiple states for the duration of World War II. With the pink canned meat prevalent, they crafted a sort-of Spam sushi, placing seasoned slices of it on white rice in a baking pan. Says Hiura, “They’d cut it, serve it and that was the forerunner to what we know as the Spam musubi.”
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The modern Spam musubi, however, is typically crafted individually, sans baking pan, its slice of salty meat further seasoned with a shoyu-sugar sauce and placed on a block of white rice with the same surface area as the Spam slice, then wrapped in nori (dry seaweed). Offered pretty much everywhere prepared foods are sold in Hawaii, they’re our perfect portable, eat-anywhere snack.
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Spam Musubi
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
2 cups uncooked short-grain white rice
01. Soak uncooked rice for 4 hours; drain and rinse.
2 cups water 6 tablespoons rice vinegar ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup oyster sauce ½ cup white sugar 1 (12 ounce) container fully cooked luncheon meat (e.g. Spam) 5 sheets sushi nori (dry seaweed) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
02. In a saucepan bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add rice and stir. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in rice vinegar, and set aside to cool. 03. In a separate bowl, stir together soy sauce, oyster sauce, and sugar until sugar is completely dissolved. Slice luncheon meat lengthwise into 10 slices, or to desired thickness, and marinate in sauce for 5 minutes. 04. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat. Cook slices for 2 minutes per side, or until lightly browned. Cut nori sheets in half and lay on a flat work surface. Place a rice press in the center of the sheet, and press rice tightly inside. Top with a slice of luncheon meat, and remove press. Wrap nori around rice mold, sealing edges with a small amount of water. (Rice may also be formed by hand in the shape of the meat slices, 1 inch thick.) Musubi maybe served warm or chilled.
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BORN OF SCARCITY
A widespread scarcity of food, caused by several factors including war, inflation, crop failure, population imbalance, or government policies, can sometimes be called a famine. This phenomenon is usually accompanied or followed by regional malnutrition, starvation, epidemic, and increased mortality. Despite scarcity, your ancestors were able to forage, create, or ration enough food to be able to bring forth a family and posterity. Your roots are strong as evidenced by enduring though food scarcity in our world.
Title [Mount Sinai] Control Number: 2019704590 Description 1 negative
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4 0 40
Title [Shackleton’s expedition to the Antarctic last moments of the Endurance] Photographer: Frank Hurley Summary: Photograph shows the sailing ship the Endurance stuck in an ice floe. Control Number: 2013646113
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ERNEST SHACKLETON’S ANTARCTIC SURVIVAL As Germany declared war on Russia, August 1st, 1914, Shackleton left London on his ship the Endurance with the intention to be the first to successfully complete a trans-Antarctic expedition. It took 4 months to reach a whaling yard in South Georgia, where Shackleton Title [Shackleton’s expedition and his crew had a few weeks to the Antarctic ice hole on Elephant of rest and replenishment for their Island where the lost party first attempted to live] hazardous journey ahead. Photographer: Frank Hurley Summary: Photograph shows the crew members with ice picks digging hole down into an iceberg. Created / Published: c1916. Copyright: Underwood & Underwood
Title [Shackleton’s expedition to the Antarctic ocean camp] Photographer: Frank Hurley Summary: Photograph shows Sir Ernest
On December 5th, they departed South Georgia for Antarctica. It was the last time Shackleton and his crew would be on solid ground for two years.
Shackleton, seated on right, and Mr. Frank Wild, skinning a fish, sitting in front of tent next to camp stove.
Disaster struck when their ship became trapped and crushed in pack ice. The crew lived on the floating ice for nearly 15 months hoping the pack ice would loosen its grips on the Endurance. One can only imagine how the crew felt when she eventually sank on November 21st, 1915. Stranded in one of the most inhospitable places on the earth. No hope of rescue, no way to call for help. For Shackleton, this was an extreme test of mental toughness and self-belief. Shackleton and his crew gathered what they could carry and set off in 3 small overcrowded boats heading for Elephant Island, at the tip of Cape Horn. From there, he selected a small crew, modified one of the lifeboats to withstand the rigors of the Weddell Sea and set off for South Georgia.
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Leaving behind 22 members of his crew, Shackleton and 5 others crossed one of the most treacherous seas in a glorified rowing boat. It took them 16 days to make the 1300km trip assisted by strong currents and trade winds. They then crossed South Georgia with no maps, over mountain ranges and glaciers. The small crew finally made it back to the Whaling station from where they had set off two years previously – so emaciated the whalers did not at first recognise them, “I do not know you” said the manager, “But I know your voices”. Grateful to be alive, Shackleton worked tirelessly to arrange a rescue boat to save his men on Elephant Island. Bearing in mind the political climate and the world war at this time, finding a naval boat was difficult. The British Admiralty refused to send a boat. The Chilean Admiralty did.
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They went a boat, in which Shackleton rescued his men on August 25th, 1916. Amazingly, all 28 members of his crew survived almost two years of being stranded in one of the world’s most desolate places. The story did not end there. Shackleton organized another rescue boat for the remaining crew “the Ross sea party” who were charged with laying out food depots for the Trans Antarctic Expedition on the other side of Antarctica Title [Shackleton’s expedition to the Antarctic on Elephant Island where Sir Ernest Shackleton found lost party] Summary: Photograph shows Sir Ernest Shackleton with crew members at campsite on iceberg.
Looking more closely at the mental toughness components of this story we can see that it was these skills that made any of it possible. Firstly, the resilience demonstrated on this epic journey has resulted in this being the tale of one of the toughest quests (with a positive outcome) seen in the 20th Century.
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Shackleton's Hoosh
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Pemmican, 60g (2 oz) per person
01. Melt a little snow/ice at the bottom of the pan so you have a layer of water and then add more ice so it melts a little at a time in the water
Sledging biscuits , 75g (2.5 oz) per person Antarctic Snow, 100ml per person to start with
02. Break the pemmican up by hand or cut into pieces, add it to the water and mix. This is now already hoosh, a sort of bouillon (broth) made with pemmican as the mother of all stock cubes 03. Break up the sledging biscuits and crumble into the pan, mix and heat through. The biscuit makes it very thick so you may want to add more water at this point to get the constituency you like. 04. There’s no real cooking needed as the ingredients are cooked already, it’s just a question of making sure the ingredients are fully broken up, and hydrated to get the right thickness and make sure it’s heated through
BORN OF WAR B ORN O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
Title [South : the story of Shackleton’s last expedition, 1914–1917] Contributor Names: Shackleton, Ernest Henry, Sir, 1874–1922. Created / Published: New York : Macmillan, 1920.
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Permmican Fried Chitlins
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Lean dense meat, (traditionally buffalo, caribou or deer
01. Using a sharp knife cut the meat into strips as thin as 3mm (1/8th�)
Fat from the same kind of meat, 250g of fat for 1kg of meat
02. Spread the slices of meat onto trays with no folds or overlaps. 03. Dry meat at about 150-180 F, that is 65 to 80 C and be careful not to cook. Drying times may vary between 7-24 hours. The meat should snap when drying is complete, at this point you have made jerky 04. Take basting fat and all the bits of fat, and place on a low to medium heat to melt the fat. Leave on low heat until all moisture is removed. This may take about 4 hours or more 05. When the fat has all melted and the water been driven off take it off the heat to cool, but don’t let it set, remove the solid pieces 06. Grind beef finely into meat powder with any means possible 07. Once the meat is ground add fat at the ratio of 60:40 ground meat to fat by weight 08. Pour mixture into a rectangular mold and placed it in a chilled room to solidify.
BORN OF WAR B ORN O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
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Sledging Biscuits Fried Chitlins
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
150g plain white flour
01. Rub the butter and flour together so that it forms a fine consistent crumb, add the baking soda and salt and mix well
1/2 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp salt 30g butter 50ml cold water
02. Add a little of the water and knead the mixture to a soft pliable dough, adding a little water at a time to get the right consistency, you may not need all of the water 03. Place the ball of dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it out to around 1cm or just under half an inch thick and cut into rectangles. 04. Prick the surface of the biscuits lightly with a fork (this stops them ballooning up) and place on a baking tray 05. Place in a pre-heated oven at 190°C. Bake until biscuits turn golden in color 06. Let biscuits cool before eating.
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2016650232 Title [Women canning food outdoors in a wooded area] Contributor Names United States. Extension Service. Created / Published [between 1925 and 1930] B O R N O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
PART OF SURVIVING...
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DESPERATION PIES HISTORY & STORY DESPERATION PIES WERE MADE WITH ANY INGREDIENTS A FARM COOK HAD ON HAND OR COULD SCROUNGE UP AT A MOMENT’S NOTICE.“[DESPERATION PIE IS] A PIE THAT YOU MADE WHEN YOU HAD NOTHING LEFT TO MAKE IT WITH” SAYS FOOD FOLKLORIST AND AUTHOR JOANNE RAETZ STUTTGEN.
B O R N O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
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THE GREAT DEPRESSION: DESPERATION PIES
Types of Depression Pies: Water Pie Vinegar Pie Mock Apple Pie
Desperation pies were the solution for cooks and bakers everywhere, and they cropped up in a plethora of variations. The simple combinations arose from“ingredients that would have nearly always been on hand” and less dependent on the seasons. In the Midwest, oatmeal or sugar cream pies substituted during the scarce months of February and March. Further south, concoctions of vanilla, corn meal, and eggs became the solution to late winter fruit shortages. Another Appalachian variation—vinegar pie—combined the sweetness of Sugar Pie seasonal maple syrup with sharp vinegar to imitate the Egg Custard Pie tartness of apple pie or lemon meringue. In the Amish Mock Pecan Pie settlements of Pennsylvania and Ohio, shoofly pie, made with sorghum molasses, provided after-supper satisfaction for farming families whose “apple bins had dwindled.” In urban areas like the south side of the Chicago, where even milk and eggs became scarce during late winter, families soaked legumes in sugar water and made a type of sweet bean pie to placate their cravings. Across the United States, families harnessed their creativity and resourcefulness to keep pie on the table year-round, albeit contingent on the cycles of the season.
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THE GREAT DEPRESSION: DESPERATION PIES From the day we are born, all our actions are steps in an experiment, and we get wiser as we go along. Our decisions become more informed through our experiences and the experiences of others. Being in the kitchen is no different. What did you do when you didn't have the right size measuring cups? How did you solve the problem of not having buttermilk for that pancake recipe? Have you ever opened up a can, or wine bottle without the most ideal tools? You are aware at this point that this is a life of making-do with what you've got. Use what you know about how things work in the world and generalize the knowledge to your culinary endeavors. Be willing to change your ways when someone shares their knowledge with you. Approach challenges in your kitchen with genuine curiosity. Listed to the right are some items that are needed in the majority of cooking endeavors. In some recipes additional equipment is needed, and will be listed on the individual recipe page. Some recipes require rare supplies or equipment that are unique to the environment where the recipe originated.
B O R N O F WA R
FOODS OF CONFLICT
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Sugar Pie
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Pastry for single-crust pie (9 inches) 1 cup sugar
01. Preheat oven to 450°. Roll out dough to fit a 9-in. pie plate. Transfer crust to pie plate. Trim crust to 1/2". beyond rim of plate; flute edge.
¼ cup cornstarch 2 cups 2% milk ½ cup butter, cubed 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
02. Line unpricked crust with a double thickness of heavy-duty foil. Fill with pie weights, dried beans or uncooked rice. 03. Bake 8 minutes. Remove foil and weights; bake 5-7 minutes longer or until light brown. Cool on a wire rack. Reduce oven setting to 375°. 04. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine sugar and cornstarch; stir in milk until smooth. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cook and stir 2 minutes or until thickened and bubbly. Remove from heat; stir in butter and vanilla. Transfer to crust; sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake 15-20 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack; refrigerate until chilled.
Title [Pies and paper pie plates. Pies] Photographer: Theodor Horydczak Created / Published: c1920–1950. Control Number: 2019672953
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THE INNOCENT COMFORT FOOD OF TIMES OF SCARCITY It's no surprise that comfort foods are born of times when things are hard. Isn't searching for comfrot, innate to being human? When we feel comfort we assume safety. Often comfort is tied into having shelter, something warm to eat, and being protected from the harsh element of this world. Finding things to sooth or bring comfort is essential to our survival. In searching for comfort we bring ourselves to prtoectoin and safety. This is recipe popular prior to the 21st century. Milennials may hear stories of their grandparentse enjoying a bowl of milk toast for breakfast, or as snack before bed. More many people, milk toast can bring a sense of nostalgia. It may be naive to assume that this recipe is from a “simpler time�, as our world seems to always be in some form of turmoil, but this is a simple recipe, that brings people back to experiecing simple pleasures in another time.
B O R N O F WA R
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Milk Toast
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
2 1-inch slice bread, preferably a very basic homemade loaf, or the cheapest white bread at the store
01. Toast bread which ever method is availabe to you. 02. In a sauce pan, combine milk, butter, and flour, and bring to a boil.
1 cup whole milk
03. Place the toast in a dish, and cut into bite sized cubes. Sprinkle on the granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
1 tablespoon butter or oil alternative
04. Add hot mik to toast cubes and serve.
1 teastpoon flour granulated sugar to taste ground cinnamon to taste Salt to taste VARIATION, IN DEPEND ON INGREDIENT AVAILABLE Milk toast used dry or stale bread as it's main ingredient. Although the avbover recipe is prepared sweet, it could alternatly be served savory with canned vegetables, spices such as paprika, or any other perfered ingredient on hand I was a simple food that required few ingredients and also used ingredients that may be nearest to expiring.
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Note to self: every time you were convinced you couldn’t go on, you did.
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INDEX
A
E
J
almonds 35 antartica 45 artificial 16, 22, 32 anzac cookies 10 aztec salsa 20
eggs 5, 16, 20, 44, 66 egg fried rice 66 enjoyment 13 ernest shakelton 34 ethiopia 30
jam 9 jambalaya 19 japanese 25, 31 jar 9, 10, 40 jelly 10 jello 40
B
F
beans 30 beef 12, 32, 90 beetroot 31 biscuits 44 bok choy 19 butter 23
fennel 18 farrow 22 field mushrooms 42 figs 9 fish 30 flour 17 fried potato 37
C cabbage 23, 41, 42 canning 7 captain cook 28 caserole 32 celery 8 cheese 5, 11, 13, 14 chicken 74 chitlins 25 chocolate 47, 60, 74 chocolate and hazelnut 74 cookie 10, 51 cream 5
L lamb 10 lecithin 12 lemon 4, 10, 62 lemongrass 29 lentils 61 licorice 20 lime 17 liver 43
G gianduja 79 great depression 30, 32 grits 41
H
hatian 45 hoosh 55
D dates 18 dandelion coffee 53 dehydrate 55
B O R N O F WA R
M manna 7 mint 33 milk 12, 21, 24, 51 mock apple pie 31 mud cookies 42
FOODS OF CONFLICT
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N
S
Y
napoleon 6 noodles 33 nori 32 nuts 51 nutraloaf 49 nutrition 6
salt 12, 14, 23, 26,27, 35, 44,46 sandwich 50 shakelton 34 ship 34, 35, 38 shit on a shingle 41 spam 31, 35 spaghetti 9 shrimp 47 sugar 28 supercrema gianduja 23
yoghurt 63
O oats 70 oil 23, 35, 43, 47, 56, 61 oregano 28 onion 14, 17, 42, 45
P pan fried 69 pemmican 17 pie 11, 25, 27 prison 30 pruno 65
T taco 40 tapioca 31 tea 19 toast 36 tomato 19 triage 44 tuna 28
R
V
resilience , 6, 12, 16, 19, 24, 30, 45, 55, 53, 61, 62 rice 60 rome 38 rye 36
vegan 35 vegetarian 60 voyage 14
W worms 29
Z zucchini 38
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This book was designed by Elyse Yerman. It was edited and set into type in the United States, and is set to be printed, but is currently available only in digital formats. The publisher and author named in the book are for fictitious use only. This is a student project only, produce for a class assignment at the Academy of Art University, located in San Francisco, California. No part of this book or any other part of the project was produced for commercial use.
TYPOGRAPHY
EQUIPMENT
Headings 1: Calluna, Designed by Jos Buivenga. From Exljbris Font Foundry
Equipment used to produce the book is the Macbook Pro. Software used: Adobe Creative Cloud, InDesign, Illustrator, Photoshop.
Headings 2: Telegraf, Designed by Nick Losacco, From PangramPangram Foundry Body text: Calluna, Designed by Jos Buivenga. From Exljbris Font Foundry Captions and Accents: PT Mono, Designed by Alexandra Korolkova and Isabella Chaeva. From Paratype.
PHOTO CONTENT Photographs used in the book are from the Library of Congress. Control Numbers: 90714232 96511694 20001604 2013645865 2013646113 2013646114 2013646117 2014681570 2014707307 2016650232 2016868537 2016808875 2017741052 2019672953
REFERENCES The written content is a compilation of data taken from the following resources: Resiliency ingredients: ncbi.nlm.nih.gov & inc. com; Napoleon: deseret.com; Canning: An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy, Thomas Webster, Mrs. William Parkes & photo from www. forbes.com; Apperts artichokes: The Art of Preserving All Kinds of Animal and Vegetable Substances for Many Years; Supercrema: detoxinista.com; Pruno: pen.org; Chitlins: thespruceeats.com; Slavery: ferris.edu; Desperation pies: thehistorybandits.com; Shackleton: aqrinternational.co.uk
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You come from a resilient species
Every individual experiences stressful life events. In some cases acute or chronic stress leads to depression and other psychiatric disorders, but did you know, most people are resilient to such effects. Explore the possibility that resilience is innate to being a human being. It is a trait that appears over and over again in our species. This is resilience told in the story of how we bring food to our tables even when the world seems to be ending all around us. Allow the history of creativity build you up and bring you awareness of the resilient being that you are. These are the recipes of the people who came before you that brought them the strength to survive through war, scarcity and oppression.
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