Seafood

THE OCEAN’S FINEST OFFERINGS

The Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar

A festive sliver of a restaurant on Main Street in Hyannis, The Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar is the go-to spot for anyone craving superlative seafood in a contemporary yet comfortable setting. A long bar runs between the brickwalled, street-front dining area and a quieter back room with plush booths, both decorated with one-of-a-kind pieces from local artists. French-born owner and executive chef Florence Lowell puts forth classically prepared dishes using fresh and local products. The oysters arrive daily straight from the restaurant’s own oyster farm in Barnstable Harbor, and all shellfish—including local lobster, little necks, quahogs and mussels—is opened on the spot and prepared to order. A house favorite, sea scallops aurora, features seared scallops in a light tomato garlic cream sauce, and regulars often call ahead to see if the coveted swordfish chop is on the specials menu. For meat-lovers, the seared Pinehill Farm bone-in sirloin never disappoints. Coming for lunch? Try the Thai shrimp or Nantucket fish taco. Some two dozen wines, including four bubblies, are offered by the glass, and a bottle of Sancerre or Pouilly Fuissé is a good choice for a one-wine-fits-all, seafood-centric meal.

—JANICE RANDALL ROHLF

410 MAIN ST., HYANNIS, MA

Scales & Shells

Locals and tourists alike flock to Scales & Shells on Thames Street in downtown Newport for seafood done right. It’s hard to find fresher fare: the restaurant has its own fish truck whose sole purpose is to track down the highest quality catch. The open kitchen showcases the chefs at work—it’s not unusual for patrons to chat with them and choose their meals right then and there. The no-frills menu fits on a chalkboard on the back wall, and the implication of its simplicity is that each dish lets the protein shine. Customer favorites include mussels marinara, clam linguine with red or white sauce and the mesquite-grilled tuna or swordfish. Prepare yourself for a bit of a wait on weekend nights as diners are served on a first-come, first-served basis, but sipping on a chilled martini from the bar will make the time fly.—JENNIFER SPERRY

527 THAMES ST., NEWPORT, RI 401-846-3474, SCALESANDSHELLS.COM

Select Oyster Bar

Longtime Neptune Oyster chef Michael Serpa opened Select Oyster Bar, his own place, a year and a half ago to fill a need he saw in Back Bay for “a quality place you can pop in any night of the week on your way home from work, just to have a bite and a glass of wine.” Oh, and you’d better be passionate about seafood. Located in a brownstone a stone’s throw from the Hynes Convention Center, Serpa’s cozy spot typically has only one meat dish on the dinner menu and there is no dessert. A casual bistro with a convivial pewter-topped bar up front and a modest-sized dining room farther back, it puts piscatorial fare on a pedestal—sometimes literally, as in a towering plateau laden with briny treats from the sea. Oysters are always available, in six varieties each night. Or you might like to start with a crudo (black bass, salmon, Hamachi), followed by Icelandic Arctic char topped with roasted leeks, frisée aux lardons and pistachio dressing, or Gloucester swordfish with rose harissa rub. Another good choice is P.E.I. mussels with roasted carrot and almond romesco.—JANICE

RANDALL ROHLF

50 GLOUCESTER ST., BOSTON, MA 857-239-8064, SELECTBOSTON.COM

Select Oyster Bar

Brasserie Jo

Take a trip to France without leaving Boston at The Colonnade Hotel’s Brasserie Jo. The elegant restaurant, which realizes French food doesn’t have to be formal, stuffy or overly elaborate, serves classics like onion soup gratinée, salade Lyonnaise and steak tartare. While the cuisine is the star of the show, the 1940s-inspired décor—mosaic tile entry floor, low-hanging chandeliers, vintage prints and a winter garden—adds to the brasserie’s charm. Have a sweet tooth? Don’t miss desserts like sweet profiteroles covered in chocolate sauce or a lusciously smooth crème brûlée. Come summer, the restaurant’s patio is the perfect spot for taking a break over mussels Riesling marinière and watching the city pass you by.—JESSICA BOWNE

120 HUNTINGTON AVE., BOSTON, MA 617-425-3240, COLONNADEHOTEL.COM

Gaslight Brasserie du Coin

An inviting South End bistro, Gaslight Brasserie du Coin blends tile and wood floors with antique mirrors to create an atmosphere that charms. Its zinc bar beckons you to unwind with one of the restaurant’s 120-plus wines. Once seated, start with traditional Parisian favorites like the fondue with fontina cheese or the pâté de foie gras before digging into the substantial beef bourguignon with spinach and bacon onion compote or a croque monsieur with béchamel sauce. The traditional bistro offers daily specials like Moulard duck breast, braised pork shank and seared Arctic char. Don’t forget to order a helping of fries with aioli.—JESSICA BOWNE

560 HARRISON AVE., BOSTON, MA 617-422-0224, GASLIGHT560.COM

Red Stripe

Red Stripe on Angell Street in Providence is the ultimate brasserie experience (now there’s one in East Greenwich too). The interior is everything you’d expect: black-and-white tiled floor, white tablecloths, romantic lighting and an open kitchen. The menu is equally comforting, filled with dishes that are simple in context and yet refined in taste. Those in the know opt for the Red Stripe grilled cheese, made with prosciutto, poached pear and basil, paired with oven-roasted tomato soup. It’s impossible to ignore Red Stripe’s famous mussels, which are available in 10 different sauces, from marinara to Portuguese. The menu ranges from burgers and salads to pasta and seafood, ensuring a tempting choice for every palate. Before the food even arrives, try a signature cocktail: the Hot & Dirty martini, with olive and hot pepper brine, is a spicy delight.

—JENNIFER SPERRY

465 ANGELL ST., PROVIDENCE, RI 401-437-6950, REDSTRIPERESTAURANTS.COM