April 2018

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Have a story or photo you’d like to share? Connect with the River Hills Traveler at

(800) 874-8423 or email jimmy@ riverhillstraveler.com or text (417) 451-3798

VOL. 45, NO. 10

APRIL 2018

www.riverhillstraveler.com

Spring is finally here!

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pring has got to be the best season of the year. I’m sure all of the allergy sufferers will probably disagree with that statement but putting aside all the stuff that’s floating around in the air out there making us sneeze and our eyes water, you just can’t beat the warmer weather, the longer stretches of daylight each day, all the crocuses and daffodils and tulips and cherry blossoms starting to make their appearance, the opening of trout seaBill Oder son, all the hopeful ———— expectations of the upcoming baseball season, morel mushrooms popping out of the ground like popcorn, turkeys gobbling in the woods, and so much more. Back in January, when we were wak-

New camping options at Red Bluff area

Please see SPRING, 18

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By Becky Ewing he U.S. Forest Service has made a decision on how to proceed with the rehabilitation of Mark Twain National Forest’s Red Bluff Recreation Area. This campground and water day-use area is located along Huzzah Creek, near Davisville, in Crawford County, Missouri. The premise for the Red Bluff Safety and Rehabilitation Project is based on the fact that devastating flood events occur along Huzzah Creek on a 2-3 year cycle. Flash flood events pose a risk to the safety of unsuspecting campers while both flash floods and prolonged precipitation floods add to the deferred maintenance costs.

Please see BLUFF, 18

Don’t fire up the grill for that armadillo just yet

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By Bill Hoagland he lowly armadillo has finally arrived in Missouri. It has only taken several million years, but he made it. And in case you did not know it, prior to the point in time when North and South America were linked by the formation of the Isthmus of Panama, there

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were no armadillos in North America; they only lived in South America. But once that continental link was formed, roughly 2.8 million years ago, at least one species of armadillo — the nine-banded armadillo — packed its bags and headed north. The nine-banded armadillo is about the Please see DILLO, 19


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RiverHillsTraveler.com

Read this before taking your ATV into the forest

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By Becky Ewing pring is here and people will be hitting the woods and water to enjoy the long-awaited warmer days. While fishing, spring wild turkey hunting, and searching for morels are still the most popular spring season pursuits, trail riding with off-highway vehicles is fast becoming a popular activity in Mark Twain National Forest. All-terrain vehicle (ATV) and utility task vehicle (UTV) sales continue to trend upward because this equipment is so versatile in work, home, and recreation pursuits. Mark Twain National Forest has nearly 125 miles of trails and countless roads open to off-highway vehicles. Before heading out for a ride through the woods, arm yourself with information to make your trip a success. And remember, responsible recreation is in your hands – follow these “Tread Lightly” principles: • T — Travel responsibly. Ride only where motorized vehicles are permitted on Mark Twain National Forest. Motorcycles, ATVs, and UTVs less than 50 inches in width are permitted at Chadwick Motorcycle and ATV Use Area in Christian County and at Sutton Bluff Motorcycle and ATV Use Area in Reynolds County. Forest Service riding permits are required at both areas. Daily and seasonal permits are available for purchase through the Forest Service and some local vendors. Off-highway vehicles are permitted on Forest Service roads designated as being “open to highway vehicles” on the official Mark Twain National Forest Motor Vehicle Use Map, but only in counties where ATV and UTV county permits are issued. On-the-ground, Forest Service roads will be physically numbered with a brown Carsonite post. The post will display the road identification number and the distance for which the road is open for riding. Motorcycles, ATVs and UTVs must meet Missouri state motor vehicle regulations to be allowed on designated Forest Service roads, and must adhere to regulations for that county in regard to permits, flags, and lights when riding on county or Forest Service roads. • R — Respect the rights of others. Respect the rights of hikers, campers, hunters and others to enjoy their activities undisturbed. Leave gates and other barriers as you found them and do not ride around them. Respect private land and landowners by staying on designated roads and trails. Always ask permission before crossing private lands. • E — Educate yourself. Gather maps and review regulations before your trip. Check with the county to obtain an ATV/UTV county permit. Free Motor Vehicle Use Maps can be obtained at all Mark Twain National Forest offices, on the web at www.fs.usda.gov/main/mtnf, or through

On-the-ground, Forest Service roads open to motorized use will be marked with a brown Carsonite sign having two numbers. The four-digit number is the road identifier and corresponds to the Motor Vehicle Use Map. Pay careful attention to the number on the decal because it identifies the distance from the post in which the road is open for travel; beyond that mileage, the road is not open to motorized vehicles.

the use of a free smartphone app called Avenza. The latter is useful because the phone’s GPS location can be set to show on the free Motor Vehicle Use Maps, giving you the confidence in knowing you are on a designated road or trail. A new regulation went into effect in September 2017 for motorcycles, ATV, and UTV on Forest Service trails — no operator is allowed to carry passengers unless the machine has been specifically designed by the manufacturer to carry more than one person. • A — Avoid sensitive areas. Unique and special habitats provide homes for Missouri’s rare species, such as rocky glades, springs, fens, and sinkhole ponds. These can be quickly destroyed when off-highway vehicles stray from designated roads and trails. Keeping to designated routes protects wildlife habitat and ground nesters such as turkeys. You will also be ensuring that historic and pre-historic sites are protected for generations to come. • D — Do your part. Practice safe riding habits by wearing an approved helmet and displaying a slow-moving vehicle sign and flag on the ATV or UTV when on designated Forest Service roads. Avoid the spread of non-native invasive plants by keeping your machine

Share your photos with the Traveler! Send us your travel, fishing, camping or other outdoors photos and we will publish them in our next issue. Text them to us at (417) 451-3798, along with the pertinent info, or email them to

jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com

clean. Dispose of your trash properly. Protect the environment by staying on the trail and road tread. Model responsible trail riding behavior and leave the area better than you found it. Tread lightly! (Becky Ewing is the district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, PotosiFredericktown Ranger District. She can be reached by email at rewing@fs.fed.us.)

Motor Vehicle Use Maps are free and show what Forest Service roads are open to highway legal vehicles. The maps will also identify roads with seasonal closures or restrictions. Maps are available at Forest Service offices and can be downloaded from Mark Twain National Forest’s website or through smartphone apps, such as Avenza.


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RiverHillsTraveler.com

Exploring the underground beauty of Missouri

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From staff reports here are nearly 7,000 registered and mapped caves in Missouri, lending credence to the nickname of the "cave state."! The surrounding area of Central Missouri's Lake of the Ozarks is home to 300 "wild" caves and three spectacular "show" caves, offering intrepid explorers and first-time cavers!an entertaining way to learn about geology, hydrology and anthropology while!discovering the underground beauty found at the Lake of the Ozarks. The lake's "show" caves are wild caves that have been "tamed" through tremendous work and expense. They feature paved walkways, bridges, hand rails and lights that have been installed for the convenience of viewing nature's subterranean sights safely and with little effort. No special clothing or equipment is necessary to tour these caves. Though, with constant temperatures between 5060 degrees, depending upon the cave, visitors are encouraged to dress appropriately. Bridal Cave, located near Camdenton, has a history steeped in Native American legend and lore, including a storied wedding within its walls which gives the cave its name. Bridal Cave was!formed some 42-46 million years ago and features massive columns, stalagmites, large draperies, a lake whose origins are a mystery and the most onyx formations of any known cave or cavern. And, of course, there's the stalactite adorned Bridal Chapel, where over 3,300 couples from around the world have exchanged their vows. Glamour magazine recently named Bridal Cave as one of the top-10 "craziest, most-awesome places to get married." Guided tours are available yeararound. For more information on the history of Bridal Cave, wedding arrangements, tour schedules and admission prices, visit www.BridalCave.com. In Jacob's Cave, near Versailles, visitors can see geological evidence of six ice ages and three earthquakes among other natural wonders. Jacob's Cave was the first commercialized cave in the area and opened for tourists in 1932. It is the largest cave in the Lake area and is famous for its depth illusion, reflective pools, prehistoric bones of a mastodon and peccary, as well as the largest geode in the world.

Ozark Caverns is located in Lake of the Ozarks State Park, near Linn Creek.

at!Ozark Caverns, located!in Lake of the Ozarks State Park near LinMissn Creek. Ozark Caverns, which is owned and operated by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, is the most rustic show cave in the Lake area. Its claim to fame is a large, impressive "Angel Shower," one of only 14 in the world and the only one in the U.S. available for public viewing.

An angel shower is an unusual cave phenomenon!made up of a "bathtub" formation beneath a never-ending shower of water that seems to come out of a solid rock ceiling.! Along the half-mile round trip through this cave, explorers/visitors will see evidence of early spelunkers, claw marks in the sediment fills left by animals that sought shelter in the cave thousands of years ago, and other natural cave formations. Tours of Ozark Caverns are offered seasonally, from mid-May through midSeptember. Complete details for Ozark Caverns, its tour schedule and admissions prices, can be found by going to TinyURL.com/OzarkCaverns. The lake's unique show caves are all within 30 miles of one another, making it easy to experience them all over a weekend stay. For all the lodging options available at the Lake, including full-service resorts and family-owned resorts, condominiums and vacation homes, bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and campgrounds and RV parks click on the "Places to Stay" tab at www.FunLake. com.

AROUND the WORLD with the River Hills Traveler

Jacob’s Cave.

Along the mile-long tour through Jacob's Cave, tourists will see many different formations including massive columns and stalactites, millions of "soda straws," delicate helictites and more. This cave is the only walk-through cave in Missouri that is completely accessible to people with disabilities. Tours are offered year-around. To learn more about Jacob's Cave, including additional background information and tour prices, visit www.JacobsCave.com. Hand-held lantern tours are offered

Joe and Mary Schilly, of Ste. Genevieve, Mo., were spending the winter in Florida when the Traveler arrived by mail. "We've been Traveler subscribers for many years," said Mary. This photo was taken at Palm Beach with the Atlantic Ocean in the background. ———

If you're going on a trip or vacation, please take the River Hills Traveler with you and have someone photograph you and the magazine in front of a landmark or somewhere pretty neat. Then email the picture & info to us at jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com and we will publish it an upcoming issue. You can also text your photos & info to (417) 451-3798 or send them to us via our Facebook page.

Thank you very much and we look forward to seeing your family’s adventures!


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Pulaski County enhances Route 66 brochure

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ver since I was a child I've loved collecting brochures from the places I visit in Missouri. Branson, Cape, Eminence, St. Louis... you name it, I've probably got it. As I got older I began filing them according to region and type of activity, and now I've got a treasure trove of wonderful places to visit and things to do in our beautiful state. Look for some of these stories in upcoming issues of the Traveler. I still collect brochures and I've got a Walmart bag Jimmy Sexton full of them that's ———— waiting on me to Journey On carefully file them away after I get off deadline with our April issue. One that I'm anxious to pick up is a new expanded Route 66 driving tour brochure put out by the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau. According to the tourism bureau's press release they sent me the other day, the free guide, first offered in 2001, now includes 66-plus points of interest, 10 detour-worthy side trips, and seven roadie-inspired tips to enhance your Route 66 experience in Pulaski County, Mo. The brochure takes inspiration from Jack D. Rittenhouse’s 1946 "A Guide Book to Highway 66" and is adapted from "Route 66 in Pulaski County, Missouri (a local history)" by noted Route 66 historian and author, Terry Primas. The updated version includes 20-plus vintage Route 66 postcards, almost

triple the prior amount. The images were provided by the John F. Bradbury, Jr. Collection and noted Route 66 author and aficionado, Joe Sonderman. The expansion project was managed by tourism bureau content creator Laura Huffman. Huffman is also a local historian and lifelong Route 66 enthusiast. She says that the guide was produced “by a Route 66 fan for Route 66 fans. It’s a keepsake.” For the first time in the 17-year history of the booklet, it now includes detailed directions to Pulaski County’s abandoned “ghost section” — a short, two-lane 1930’s alignment at the former Morgan Heights community. The brochure also details Waynesville’s significance to Route 66 as the “Birthplace of the Byway.” The turn-by-turn directions guide visitors, travelers, tourists, and roadies to Route 66 alignments that date to the 1920’s, 1930’s & 1940’s. Pulaski County’s boundaries include 33 miles of drivable Mother Road. “The bureau’s expanded Route 66 Driving Tour brochure is being released just as Route 66 fans begin hitting the legendary road to tour, explore, and discover," said Beth Wiles, executive director of the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau. She noted that the complimentary guide also includes driving tours of historic Fort Leonard Wood and of the former Frisco Railroad line through Dixon, Crocker, and Richland. She said the beefed-up pamphlet is an example of Pulaski County’s tourism dollars at work. “The brochure is designed to engage Route 66 travelers with our Route 66 communities, namely Devils Elbow, Saint Robert, Waynesville, Laquey, and

Gascozark.” The updated guide has been submitted to the Route 66 Association of Missouri’s magazine, Show Me Route 66, for inclusion in an upcoming issue. The free turn-by-turn guide can be preordered by contacting the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau at (573) 3366355 or by email at email@pulaskicountyusa.com. It will also be distributed to Pulaski County businesses that cater to travelers along the route. Pulaski County residents can pick up a copy at the Visitors Center at 137 St. Robert Boulevard, Saint Robert. ——— Soon you may see more Mark Twain National Forest (MTNF) and contract employees working in developed and dispersed recreation sites and along forest service roads.! They will be wearing bright orange vests and be near a sign that says “Traffic Survey Ahead." These folks are waiting to talk to you, to find out how you use the national forest — so please pull over for an interview.!It will only take a few minutes. All information you provide for this voluntary survey is confidential.!This is a nationwide, recurring effort the Forest Service undertakes called National Visitor Use Monitoring (NVUM). Surveying will occur at intervals between now and September. NVUM surveys gather basic visitor information and all responses are completely confidential.!In fact, a person’s name is never written anywhere on the survey. The basic interview lasts around 10 minutes.! This survey was conducted nationally five years ago, and forest service officials are now returning to update the information previously gathered and

What in the world was happening in my boat?

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ncle Nick, admittedly no saint, is a deliberate and purposeful man. Not unduly influenced by “haunts” nor “familiars.” Certainly not skittish of aberrations or shying from shadows in dark and isolated places. So, when he recalled to me the following; I was compelled to take note. Like a lot of those of his generation; a good deal of his friends are no longer “on the right side of the grass.” Most of those with whom he grew up gigging are long gone. He assembles Rick Mansfield teams of novices ———— from time to time, Reflections but mostly contents from the Road himself with going alone. He either gigs from the back of the boat, or runs to the top of a hole and gigs while drifting back down. Such was his plan recently the next to last night of this season. Upon arriving at a local gravel bar on the Lower Current, it appeared he had the place to himself. This was of no surprise, as two foes of good gigging were quite present. A sharp wind and a full moon. What fish could be viewed beneath the choppy surface would be more than usually anxious in their behavior. As he

unstrapped his johnboat in preparation to launch; it was then he noticed the stranger at the edge of the wood-line. He had no light nor fire, though the moon had not yet crested the horizon and the temperature had already fallen below freezing. It was difficult to speculate his age, as with many by this time of winter he’d allowed both hair and beard to grow quite long and even by local standards a “mite shaggy!” A dark felt fedora masked a good deal of his upper countenance, while what appeared to be a knit woolen sweater and cotton slacks were all that shielded his slight frame from the cold. Uncle Nick, being a congenial and confident man, invited him to the fire he was preparing; precaution against an unintended mishap in the boat. The light of the fire did little to accentuate any more of the now-welcomed guest’s features. After brief introductions, “Just call me Lon” was more growled than spoken; Nick explained the rudiments of the sport. By the time the pair began to traverse the first hole, the full moon was well up and what wind fractured the plane also helped to magnify the reflections into a silver offering of light. Nick noticed what could almost be described as whimperings coming from the man as he grasped the wooden handle of the gig and stared into the stream. The suddenness of the first stab and

retrieval of a large yellow sucker took Nick somewhat by surprise; but not nearly as much as did the tearing of the fish from the metal prongs and the instant swallowing of the two-pounds of flesh, bones and scales. This performance was repeated numerous times in the next few minutes; never a miss — seldom much chewing. It was after several minutes that Nick then noticed the stranger had become increasingly hunched over; with the last couple of fish harvested while Lon was basically on all fours. Nick continued to run the boat upstream; and when coming to a thin shoal, the stranger turned momentarily and glanced at Nick with now yellow eyes. Then, in a flash, exited the boat in the now shallow water and ran off into the brush; all the while using all four extremities to propel himself. Uncle Nick told me all this while reloading some of his .357 cartridges with silver bullets. (Rick Mansfield is a seasoned storyteller and writer, and is always looking for new audiences. He can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)

On the Cover Bridal Cave, located near Camdenton, was formed about 42-46 million years ago and features massive columns and large draperies.

(photo courtesy www.funlake.com)

look for recreation trends over time.! The results are going to be pretty fascinating to read, I can't wait. The data will provide the national forest managers with an estimate of how many people actually recreate on federal lands, what activities they engage in while there, and how satisfied they are with their visit.! The information is essential for forest planning, and can be useful for local community tourism planning, as well.! Information collected in this national study will be used in local forest planning, at the state planning level, and even by Congress.! The more they know about the visitors, especially their satisfaction and desires, the better managers can provide for their needs.! Although the survey is entirely voluntary, the Forest Service would appreciate it if visitors would pull up and answer a few questions. It’s important for them to talk with local people using the forest as well as folks from out of the area, so all types of visitors are represented in the study.! ——— If you have a story idea, or something particular you would like more information about, please give my office a call or send an email and we will see what we can do. Thanks for reading the Traveler, have a great spring! (Jimmy Sexton is owner and publisher of the River Hills Traveler. He can be reached at (800) 874-8423, ext. 1, or jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com.)

River Hills Traveler 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850 Phone & Fax: 800-874-8423

www.riverhillstraveler.com Email: jimmy@riverhillstraveler. com Owner & Publisher Jimmy Sexton Managing Editor Madeleine Link Circulation Manager Amanda Harvel Staff Writers Wes Franklin • Mike Roux Bill Wakefield • Bill Oder Tom Boydston • Judy Smith Michelle Turner • Dana Sturgeon Chuck Smick • Ryan Walker Richard Whiteside • Roger Smith Advertising All of us

River Hills Traveler, established in 1973, is published monthly by Sexton Media Group and Traveler Publishing Company at 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Postmaster: Send change of address notices to: River Hills Traveler, 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Subscription prices: $22 per year; 2 years, $40. Back issues available up to one year from publication, $5 plus sales tax & shipping. COPYRIGHT © 2018 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher of the River Hills Traveler or his duly appointed agent. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial submission for any reason.


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VINTAGE OZARKS: Reeds Spring, real photo postcard, 1930s

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ou could drink a Coke, gas up and shop a splendid selection of Ozark drip pottery and cedar novelties in a short stop in Reeds Spring.!Many of the cedar boxes were made locally under small factory conditions and had decals evoking Shepherd of the Hills Country. At the time these roadside attractions were disparaged, but today many of the items they sold are high-priced collectibles. More recently foreign-manufactured items compete with locally made tourist items. (This feature is courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Their new book, James Fork of the White, was published in 2017. Some pages from this book can be seen on www.beautifulozarks.com. Their earlier river book, Damming the Osage, can be at seen www.damming theosage.com)

5 years ago • The forecast called for very cool weather for the weekend. There was still a bit of snow on the ground and I decided to do a little hiking. I've driven through Robertsville State Park a few times over the years to use the boat ramp to the Meramec River, but I had never really checked the place out. Located in Franklin County, Robertsville State Park is just over 1,200 acres and is almost a perfect square in configuration. It is boarded by the Meramec River on two sides, Calvary Creek on the third side, and the south side of the park abuts train tracks and then Highway O. (Howard Helgenberg) • "I experienced a snow goose hunt of a lifetime," Chad Everett, of Lebanon, Ohio, began. "I have never seen as many snow geese as I saw in southeast Missouri recently." Everett and two of his Ohio hunting buddies, Chad Dwire and Jim Griffin, traveled 9 hours to hook up with Perry May, owner and operator of IYF Outfitters of Dexter. I joined the goose hunting trio for two days of their three-day hunt. (Bill Cooper) 10 years ago • April is the first full month of spring. Temperatures are bearable, the air is fresh, and the temptation to get out of doors and go somewhere becomes unbearable. Try some outdoor adventures right here in southeast Missouri. The Jacks Fork River, Wappepello Lake, and Duck Creek Conservation Area are just some

REMEMBER WHEN

of the outdoors adventures you can do right here in Missouri. (Bill Cooper) • Al Agnew is as precise and detailminded in his quest for smallmouth as he is in creating his artwork. The Ste. Genevieve area artist shared some of his bronzeback-catching techniques with a full house at the Missouri Smallmouth Alliance's annual banquet March 8 in Arnold, Mo. (Emery Styron) 15 years ago • My dad may have been from the Adirondack Mountains in New York State, but he sure knows some fine old southern expressions. "Dry as a popcorn (word for expelling gas that starts with an "f")," he used to say about drought conditions. And that's the way it was one spring as turkey season approached. Dry and hot and very windy, very much like the olf man's description. (Bob Todd) • "I haven't seen this many fish all winter," Roy Halbert said, as we starting going up the slope of a "hump" in Clearwater Lake. We were looking for crappie, and finding shad could be the key. As we moved from 18-20 feet in the old river channel to the shallower hump beneath the water, the depth finder showed school after school of shad. (Bob Todd)

20 years ago • I cocked my head downriver toward the faint sounds that echoed from atop a dogwood-studded ridge. "Ah, there he goes again," I muttered to myself. My paddle whispered and the canoe slid silently downstream, closer to the haunt of the old river gobbler. The gobbler sounded off again, some 800 yards downstream and across the river. I had heard the first faint gobble as I rounded a bend in the river. The unmistakable sound of the wild turkey gobbler was muffled by the gurgling riffle I had just negotiated, yet was echoed by the hollow created by the steep ridges on either side of the river where the gobbler was roosted. (Bill Cooper) • You know how it is. Usually, you hear a gobbler and you call. He answers. Excitement begins to build! But those other times... he's so close you can practically see him. His gobble shakes the ground around you. Yet when you call, he ignores you. He gobbles again, and you know he doesn't have a hen with him, but he's acting as if you aren't there. Oh, yeah, he'd like to speak to a lady, but somehow it is as if he's in one world and you are in another. You feel like an absolute wallflower. (Bob Todd) 30 years ago • It is a fact that gobblers never gobble before the whippoorwills stop calling in the morning. That fact is almost true. It is all the way true when it comes to the descendants of Ol' Craz, that strange

gobbler that lived on the mountain back of the house here at Over the Hill Farm. Craz was the turkey that answered to almost any kind of noise, but always went directly away form the sound instead of to it. (Bob Todd) • "Yelp, yelp, yelp. Gobble-gobblegobble-obbleeee!" My very first love notes on a real turkey hunt brought a lusty response from a gobbler. Beginner's luck perhaps, but my heart was racing in my throat. Clucks and yelps were the extent of my turkey talk vocabulary. (Bill Cooper) 40 years ago • One of the joys of spring for people who like to canoe is the chance to float waters that in the summer are often too low to be floated without considerable difficulty. And among the appealing spring-time streams are those that run east toward the Mississippi River instead of south. One such stream that just gets a head of steam up before entering the Mississippi River Valley, is Saline Creek in Perry County. In size, it might be compared to the far, upper reaches of the branches of the Black River. (Bob Todd) • My vhildren have been responsible for teaching me many things. I would never have known the "Top 20" if it had not been for their ears glued to radios that can be heard for ten miles in any direction. The lowly "french fry" potato could have easily been absent from my culinary list of favorites. New math has been a ball. (Jack Leiweke) (compiled by MyraGale Sexton)

— Share your camping, fishing, kayaking, hunting, outdoors & travel photos with Traveler readers by texting them to (417) 451-3798 —


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Gobblers in the rain

ain is inevitable during spring turkey hunting. That can be especially frustrating if it rains on the few days you are able to hunt in the Show-Me State. If all you have is a weekend and it rains both days, you might think your season is over. That is not necessarily true. I have had more than my share of rainy day turkey hunts over the past 50+ seasons. Here are a few ideas that might help you be more successful if your season clouds up and rains this year. HUNT IN Mike Roux THE RAIN ———— Do not let the rain stop you from hunting. It is like my Uncle Buster used to say, “The birds are still out there even in the rain. They don’t come in out of the rain. They have nowhere else to go. They’re already home.” Plan ahead and have a blind up for just such mornings. I actually have a couple of blinds up in different locations so I am not handcuffed to one spot. One more tip on blinds that I learned the hard way — all blinds are NOT water proof. CALL LOUDER & MORE OFTEN Yes, I change my calling routine drastically in the rain. Obviously there is more background noise during a shower. Louder calling not only allows the

Roux has found ways to be successful in the spring woods even if it rains.

gobbler to hear you, but more importantly they can better locate you. I also call more often in the rain. Birds are just much less likely to respond and move in bad weather. It takes more to get them in the urge and

put them on the move to your location. Hit ‘em hard and hit ‘em often. PROTECT YOUR GEAR If you cannot or will not use a diaphragm call, there is not much worse

than a wet friction call. A wet box call is a disaster. You have heard the old saying, “You can’t start a fire with wet wood.” Well you can’t make a yelp with a wet box call, either. And wet slate calls are just as bad. I know there are a few manufacturers of “waterproof” pot-and-peg calls that claim their products will perform when wet. Let me assure you that any type of friction can be lubricated with water. Period! The bottom line is to keep your calls dry at all costs. The other piece of gear I highly recommend keeping dry is your gun. Water and moisture are the enemies of all metal… especially guns. I know you have to have your gun out to shoot. That is much different than having it exposed to harsh elements for hours on end. If it is raining I take my gun to the field in a soft case. If I get a bird working or see one coming, I slowly make the move to uncase the gun and get it ready. If you are too scared to make that move, then use some extra camo rain gear to cover your gun on those gray, rainy mornings. So the fact is you CAN kill spring gobblers in the rain. I have done it several times. A bit of preseason preparation and planning will help make a bad weather turkey hunt much easier. Remember, the gobblers do not come in out of the rain. Why should you? Good luck this season, regardless of the weather. (Mike Roux can be reached at 217257-7895.)

Customers: ‘It’s a pleasure’ shopping at Bourbon Family Center By MATTIE LINK

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mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________

ourbon Family Center recently underwent a major renovation, much to the delight of their customers. “With some assistance from True Value, progress is evident at Bourbon Family Center,” said Jerry Crump, owner. The store has increased its inventory by about 40 percent and has new signage and improvements made throughout the facility. “When renovations to the business were completed, a grand reopening to celebrate was held to showcase our complete remodel,” said Crump. All of the center's departments have expanded, and the electrical, hardware and plumbing departments now have a full selection of products available. “The liquor and firearms departments have been remodeled from top to bottom as well,” said Crump. The inside boasts a 10,000 square feet sales area with new lights, carpet, fixtures, and flooring, while the outside has a brand new sign and lighting. Owned by the Crump family since 1973, Bourbon Family Center is open seven days a week. Along with an expanded inventory, they currently are hosting Friday night wine and liquor tastings. “A large stock of firearms and ammu-

nition are available. We also sell Missouri Department of Conservation hunting and fishing licenses,” said Crump. In addition to package liquor and cold beer, they carry Case brand knives,

paintball supplies, pet supplies, hardware, cleaning supplies, gifts, and much, much more. “If we don’t have what you need, we can special order it for you,” said Crump. Seasonal items include an enormous selection of fireworks, gardening plants and seeds, as well as potting soil, mulch, and fertilizer. “The Scoops and Snacks ice cream parlor adjoins the store, with handmade waffle cones, many flavors of ice cream and other frozen treats,” said Crump.

Bourbon Family Center has that hometown, personal customer service atmosphere that makes it a pleasure to shop there. It is located at 140 W. Pine St. in Bourbon, Mo. The phone number is (573) 732-5517. Check out their website at www.bourbonfamilycenter.com. “Our friendly, helpful staff is always ready with a smile and willingness to go above and beyond to meet the customers’ needs,” said Crump. “It is this attention to the customer that brings people from the surrounding areas to the Family Center.”


RiverHillsTraveler.com

T

he day was hot. Me and my girlfriend had been camped across from the mouth of one of my favorite tributaries of the Eleven Point. For three days we were there and not a soul had been seen. Even though this story is about a time years ago, I still remember it like yesterday. Floating season ends around Labor Day weekend and this was well after Labor Day, but still the temp each day had reached up to 98 degrees. Far from a road or put-in we were in heaven with no care in the world. We were on a five-day river trip on the Eleven Point River in the Ozarks of Missouri. Aside from spending our days soaking up the sun and laying around on the hot gravel and sand, we would explore with our empty canoe. Sometimes leaving behind our base camp and exploring all day and coming back in the afternoon while bringing back with us items of trash general related to flooding. Squirrel season was in and we had Richard enjoyed several Whiteside meals of fresh fried ———— squirrel and fried potatoes, white bread and gravy. The setup was perfect and occurred by pure luck. Across the river was a couple hickory trees that were being bombarded by every fox squirrel and grey squirrel in the wilderness. Five people could fill their limit each day and never leave the campfire ring at the water’s edge. When shotgunning tree-top squirrels from across the river, I prefer to use my long gun 12-gauge loaded with 2-3/4 inch long brass #6. I can clobber a squirrel with that round through that gun from 75 yards away. I leave my .640 Hastings turkey choke in just for that purpose. One day I woke up early and filled my limit of squirrel before breakfast. Paddled over and collected them from the base of the big hickories along the Eleven Point for breakfast. With my long gun leaning up against the sampling sycamore growing up out of the gravel, I drug my lawn chair out next to the water and drifted off to sleep. When I woke up I could hear a jet boat coming up through the tumbling shoal at the lower end of the big eddy coming up river. Thinking nothing of it, I just remained crashed out in my lawn chair. I recognized the father and son driving the boat from over the years being on the creek but did not recognize the other couple. As they approached it seemed like he was letting off the throttle to pull onto our sliver of gravel bar. The couple that was riding up front did not see the silent lip motion the gentleman operating the boat gave me as they pulled up. With his lips I could see him say he was sorry as he dumped them off on our gravel bar. Leaving the couple on our gravel bar, the father and son pushed off and headed back down river. I got up and approached the couple and very fast I saw that they were on some kind of drug such, like for heroin or meth. They were talking out the side of their head and I felt a very uneasy feel-

Always be prepared You never know what might happen in the woods

ing about the whole situation. Trying to piece together what their intentions were, I could hear the jet boat down river below the tumbling shoal shut down and fire back up to come back up through the tumbling shoal. I asked them if they were local and they said yes. I asked them if they lived on J Highway and they asked where J Highway was. I knew then that they were, in fact, not local otherwise they would have known where J Highway was. I politely told them that out of 45 miles of river, that making the decision to choose our sliver of gravel to squat on was slightly disrespectful considering that they could have gone anywhere but here. They were standing at the entrance of our tent, all methed out. I then asked them if they had more people because I could hear the jet boat coming back up. Two trips would be required to shuttle their group up to the gravel bar we were on. So I told him, “I believe if I was going to come up river to party on a gravel bar all day that I would find one where nobody was camping on.” He said, “What do you want us to do, walk?” I asked him if his vehicle was two miles down river at the put-in, and he said it was. That is where our vehicle was also parked. I then pointed at my canoe and camp and told him if I was able to carry 900 pounds of gear upriver two miles then surely you can walk empty-handed. What I did not want was to spend the day in the wilderness with a crowd of drunk meth and heroin users. For the life of me I could not find where anything good could possibly come of that thought.

The couple was twitching and talking out the side of their head. In the lady’s hand was a breakfast burrito from a convenience store and a cigarette, and in the other was a container of some sort. He had a shoulder bag around one shoulder with a skull and crossbones neckless and rings, and “666” tattoos all over him. I have spent my whole life camping in the Ozarks and this was one time that I felt I really needed to be on my toes. Where we were there is zero cell service. You can scream as load as you want and nobody will hear you. With all the experience I had over the years, I felt red flags going off on my radar that usually don’t go off. I told him that upriver two shoals was another decent gravel bar and that I thought it would be best if they walked on up there. I did not want the rest if their part to all arrive. That would have made it more difficult to persuade them to all

April 2018 • Page 7 go. We would be way outnumbered. The entire time my long 12-gauge was out of site, tucked up in the sycamore sapling a few feet from where I was standing. My goal was to remove the threat from our vicinity and so far my tactics were working. They began to walk past our tent along the water’s edge and as they reached the tip of the gravel bar, the boat rounded the bend with the other man in their party. I was on the lower end of the gravel bar and they were on the upper end. I could hear the couple mouthing to the other gentleman but couldn’t make out what they were saying. Mandy was in the tent and could hear what they were saying and she leaned out and said, “I think you need to get your gun.” I looked and could see they were focused on us and began to walk our direction, so I took two steps and leaned over into the sapling and grabbed my turkey gun. Took two steps back and faced away from them. I stood in clear view of them facing away and across the river. They could clearly see my big 12gauge resting on my shoulder in my hand as I looked across the river up into the big hickory tree. I just stood there. Never moving or making any gesture at all. I just stood there. Within a half a minute I heard the boat fire up and they all got in it and headed back down the river. And just like that, we were without people and in solitude as if it never had even occurred. This is a freak incident. Some of the best people I have ever met in my life have been on the water. But I can tell you that it’s not the only incident where if I had not had a gun, who knows what would have happened. That day on the Eleven Point could have been bad. One look at that big gun on my shoulder and they no longer had a desire to disturb us or harm us. I don’t like thinking about it but that visible shotgun may have very well saved our lives. I share this experience because I believe people should be made aware of what possible threats they may encounter. If you spend enough time in the wilderness, eventually you will find yourself in a situation. Be prepared.! (Richard Whiteside lives in Doniphan, Mo., and can be reached at rlwhiteside72@gmail.com. His blog can be followed at www.ozarkriverman.wordpress. com.)


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RiverHillsTraveler.com

Age can’t wash away memories of time in the woods

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s I exited the vehicle in the pre-dawn darkness, the plethora of stars overhead caught my attention. The numbers were unimaginable and they were so much more vivid here than at home where the ambient light took away some of their brilliance. I readied my gear and began the walk down to my hunting blind. The path I took led me alongside the creek and the gurgling of its flow passing over the rocks was a peaceful sound. I entered my blind, pulled up my seat and settled in for the day’s hunt just at the last call of the whippoorwills and the hoot of a barred owl in the distance. As night started to give way to day, the creek once again caught my attention as a slow vapor lifted from it. I watched the water passRoger Smith ing by, steadily flowing past... ———— knowing I would never see that same water again, just as my youth had passed me by and I knew I would never relive those experiences again. The difference being, the ebb and flow of that water passing by has no certain destination — but these days I do. It brought to me the realization of how close I hunted to the Jeep these days, where years before I never even stopped for a breath at this range. As the sun started to crest the ridges I gazed off at the highest ridge I could see. It looked miles away now whereas in prior years I had hunted that same ridge daily. But this didn’t bother me because growing up I payed attention to the elders and how their gate had slowed so much, and I had lost my own dad at an early age. Back then I had the foreknowledge that the day would come when my pace would slow and my trek wouldn’t be nearly as far. So over the years I hiked over every ridge and

through every holler I could, imprinting them deep into my mind. I didn’t want to become that old hunter that sat close to the road, not knowing what lay beyond the next hill. I now sit here and retrace those steps with the blueprints instilled in my mind. I know where that knarly old White Oak is that the squirrels so often race to and the deer gather under when acorns start dropping, that odd large rock sitting right atop the ridge, which I so often questioned how did it find its resting place there. The spot where the hardwoods give way to the tall slender pines. The cedar thicket where every fall I would go, knowing I’d find numerous rubbing posts for the various bucks. Where the turkeys roost according to the wind and weather, that little clearing where every spring an old tom comes to strut and await his mate. I know my old stand is still on that hill, my oldest son keeps it up for me and he occasionally hunts it and takes a deer from it, but mostly it sits empty.

3 Th T ings You Can Do to Help

Mon narchs AND Pollinators 1

Plant Naatives

Common Comm m on milkw milkweed kweed

Showy Sho owyy golde goldenrod enrrod

Native plants are a food source for monarch butterflies and other pollinators. Add these plants to your landscape:

2

eep it Blooming

Keep something in bloom each season. Some species bloom all year, others only in April and May, still others in July and August. Learn more at mdc.mo.gov/monarch.

3

Get Invoolved

Protect native grasslands, provide nesting places, and become a wildlife gardener. To learn how, visit GrowNative.org.

New England New Engl glaand asteer

Prairie Pra a irii e blazing blaa zing star s taa r

Wiild ld bbergamot berrgaa m ot

Maybe some day some young hunter will adopt it and enjoy sitting there listening to the wind whistle through the pines, as I did so many days. I’ve considered having him set up a trail cam close to it but I really don’t want to know what I may be missing out on. I could use an ATV and make the trip, but it just doesn’t seem right to me. I like the sneaky approach and soaking up the surroundings on my way. It just doesn’t seem to fit me to zoom past all of God’s creations without taking time to notice and appreciate them. Life goes fast enough these days without me speeding it up more. So I sit here, content hunting this little spot because there are no unanswered questions about what lies over the ridge and the next and the next. Time has taken its toll on this old body just as it does everyone and everything, but there are things time can’t take away. It can’t take away all the memories of days gone by implanted deeply in my head and no matter how hard it tries, it will never wash away all those footprints that I left as my mark so deep into those woods. Some day I’m sure my time will come and this spot shall sit quietly void. But as legend says: Old hunters don’t die, they just go deeper into the woods. (Roger Smith lives in Bonne Terre, Mo., and can be reached at n0uss@ yahoo.com)


April 2018 • Page 9

RiverHillsTraveler.com

‘I am water’

Tupelo gum trees growing in Missouri

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n Missouri we have several natural areas designated. One of these areas is called Tupelo Gum Pond, which is located in Oregon County within the Mark Twain National Forest. From Winona, head west for 4 miles on Highway 60. Turn left (south) onto County Road 617 for about 8 miles till a “Y” intersection. Then, turn left onto Forest ServDana ice Road 3239 for Sturgeon about 2 miles. ———— Then turn onto Eleven Forest Service Point River Road 3239B. Park and walk down to the pond area. You will see several tupelo gum trees or water tupelo trees in a pond area of about 32 acres. It is a sinkhole that was formed from a collapsed underground cavity. Sinkhole ponds form when the bed of a sinkhole is lined with impermeable clay and organic matter deposits that prevent water from draining. Beavers have used some of these trees for their dams or nesting areas.

However, the U.S. Forest Service has been able to control the beaver enough to ensure these trees more years to survive. Scientists have taken core samples from the pond’s sediments and determined that the trees growing around this pond between 12,000 to 20,000 years ago were mainly jack pine, a species now found native 500 miles north of here. The pollen record from 3,000 to 12,000 years ago was poorly preserved. Water tupelo and buttonbush pollen were common in the past 3,000 years. Normally these trees are found only in the southern states. However, there are a few that have been able to survive through the years in a few areas in our own state of Missouri. (Dana Sturgeon lives in southern Missouri. She can be reached at mo_dana@hotmail.com.)

I am water. I am old and I am tired, and I have been here for many years. I have watched the seasons come and seasons go. Life and death plays out around me, and I am unscathed and notice little. Temporary I am not. For my beginning, you can only wonder. As the Spirit of God moved upon my face I witnessed creation. Only darkness was upon me. I watched as light became day and darkness became light. I was divided and the space between became the Heavens. Before the land it was only I. I blanket the earth and I even flow through your veins. I carry vitamins within your body. Without me you will die in days. I give life and take life. You take me for granted while you drink me. While bathing you forget that without me, you could not. While swimming you forget that without me, you could not. While cooking you forget that without me, you could not. I give rest, I give comfort and I even give you my stones when the enemy comes knocking. I purify, I cleanse. I wash away, I make clean. I deliver, I break chains. I tear down walls, I tear down strongholds. You forget. Oh, how you forget. It was me that John the baptized walked into. Oh, how you forget. I was In the well of Bē’er when the Israelites sang the song, “Spring up, O well; sing ye unto it:” It was me then, and it is me now. Oh, how you forget. I am water. (Richard Whiteside lives in Doniphan, Mo., and can be reached at rlwhiteside72@gmail.com. His blog can be followed at www.ozarkriverman.wordpress. com.)


Page 10 • April 2018

RiverHillsTraveler.com

April 2018 • Page 11

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Washington State Park Thunderbird Lodge 13041 St. Hwy. 104 (south of DeSoto on MO 21)

(636) 586-2995

3 & 7 mile floats • Cabins • Camping Swimming pool • Kayaking/Tubing open April thru November!

Going camping this summer? Here’s a few campgrounds to try out

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pril is finally here. With that comes the opening of many seasonal campgrounds in Missouri. The memories I have made with my daughter on camping trips are priceless, yet I have had so many people inquire about this pastime with great confusion. I’ve heard it all. People have complained to me that it sounds like a lot of work, while others ask me how I can manage to do this as a single mom without a man to pitch the tent and build the fire. However, my favorite line is this: “I camp in hotels.” Michelle Turner Ultimately, I believe ———— that not taking the time and effort to expose children to the great outdoors is detrimental to their development. Camping teaches children many great lessons ranging from patience to an appreciation of the world around them. It’s an experience that excites the senses in ways that no hotel room could ever achieve. Maybe you’re not sure where to start. If you are like me and use Google religiously, it can be overwhelming. When searching “Missouri Campgrounds” Google came up with 603,000 results in .74 seconds.

For now, let’s narrow it down to four that we have had success with! I am going to start with two that will require you to “rough it” a bit. In other words, there are no showers or flush toilets, but the proximity to beautiful, crystal-clear creeks will totally make up for the lack of modern conveniences. First is Marble Creek Campground in the Mark Twain National Forest. It’s off Highway E, located south of Arcadia. The creek is

simply stunning. Karlene and I have camped right by the creek with easy access from our site. The Taum Sauk Marble found throughout this area is beautiful, too. But, the thing that captivated us the most was the amazing view of the stars. The light pollution where we live does not allow us such a grand night view. Paddy Creek Recreation Area is also located in the Mark Twain National Forest. I know this place well, because I also have wonderful childhood memories of Paddy Creek. It’s a place that my grandmother has mentioned from her youth as well. I knew as soon as my own child could walk, it was important that she had similar experiences.

Taking her camping at Paddy Creek remains a highlight for both of us. This area is located between Licking and Roby. Take Slabtown Road to Paddy Creek Road. Be prepared for a pretty steep hill, but at the bottom you’ll find this little oasis! While both Paddy Creek and Marble Creek are amazing finds, I do know some of you will not be comfortable unless you have more amenities, in other words: plumbing. Never fear, here are two other kid-friendly places to consider. Onondaga State Park has all the comforts of home for campers, even Wi-Fi. It’s located on the Meramec River. It is also just a hop, skip, and a jump away from the Huzzah Conservation Area. I prefer to wade there with my daughter because it’s a lot more shallow and predictable than the Meramec. Onondaga also is well known for their cave. I have toured this cave more times than I can count and it’s never gotten old. Here’s a tip: weekends in the summer get a bit loud, especially with several large private campgrounds within yelling distance. During peak season, you may want to consider camping on a weekday. I have learned this the hard way. Onondaga is located near Leasburg. Take the Highway H exit from I-44 and it’ll take you through Leasburg to the park. Last but not least, I highly recommend Crystal Creek Ranch located near Alley

Spring in Eminence. This privately-owned ranch is one of the most unique experiences we have had. We had originally planned to camp in our tent, but since the rains kept coming and going, we opted for one of their “unique lodging experiences” listed on their website. The 12x12 Russ Noah log cabin was our home for three nights on the grounds. We walked to the shower house and bathrooms. Our “site” had a fire ring with a picnic table. It was almost just like we were in a tent, but the cabin kept us dry when the rains came nearly every night we were there. Being able to help feed the rabbits, collect eggs, and make S’mores at our campfire were highlights for my daughter. For more information, visit their website at www.crystalcreekranch.com. These are just four suggestions. I am sure if you ask around you’ll discover even more. Yet, there comes a time to just pick one and go for it. Even if you just stay two days and one night, you will be creating a lifetime of memories for a child. Camping with kids is messy, it is work, but it is also priceless. Parents and grandparents out there, remember childhood is a time you can never get back so spend it well. I wish you the best in your camping endeavors. Now go make some memories! (Michelle Turner lives in Union, Mo.)

spawning to occur. In parts of the continent where trout reproduce in the wild, spawning occurs from early winter to late spring, depending on local conditions. Eggs are laid by the female in a shallow pit dug by the female on clean, gravelly riffles. The female resumes digging upstream and the eggs are covered by gravel carried down

by the current. No parental care is provided to the eggs, which are dependent on oxygen present in the water percolating through the gravel. Eggs hatch in about 21 days and the fry remain in the gravel until the yolk sac is absorbed. (source: MDC)

Critter of the Month: Rainbow trout

• Species: Rainbow trout. • Scientific name: Oncorhynchus mykiss. • Nicknames: None. • Claim to fame: Rainbow trout are a popular sportfish in Missouri. They’re in the news March 1 thanks to Missouri’s March 1 trout park opener, but this isn’t the only time Missourians fish for rainbow trout. Studies have shown trout fishing in the state provides a multi-million dollar benefit to the state’s economy each year. Missouri’s current trout program consists of Lake Taneycomo, four trout parks, 20 trout management areas and winter trout fisheries in 20 urban lakes in St. Louis and Kansas City. Virtually all of these areas and opportunities are sustained by stockings from Missouri Department of Conservation hatcheries. The Department stocks more than 1.5 million trout annually in the state. • Species status: Rainbow trout are not native to Missouri, but were first imported here

in the 1800s. The rainbow trout’s native range stretches along the Pacific Coast from Alaska to northern Mexico. • First discovered: The first scientific description of the fish was written by Russian naturalist Johann Julius Walbaum in the 18th century. • Family matters: Rainbow trout belong to the salmonidae family of fish. This family includes several species high in angling popularity such as brown trout, salmon, char and whitefish. • Length: The average length is 10 to 15 inches, but longer lengths have been reported. • Diet: Aquatic insects, terrestrial insects, snails and small fish make up the bulk of a rainbow trout’s diet. There is some variance based upon local availability of food. • Weight: Most adult rainbows caught in Missouri range in weight from under one pound to one-and-one-half pounds, but they can grow larger.

• Distinguishing characteristics: The upper parts of a rainbow’s body are dark olive and thickly speckled with black spots. Of course, the tell-tale sign of a rainbow is the pinkish to pinkish-red stripe that runs the length of the body on both sides. • Life span: Rainbow trout have been reported to live up to 11 years in some parts of the country. • Habitat: Within their natural range, rainbow trout inhabit streams, naturally occurring lakes and reservoirs. Trout do best in waters that generally remain below 70 degrees F. In Missouri, suitable trout habitat is limited to approximately 170 miles of Ozarks spring branches and spring-fed streams and the 2,080-acre coldwater reservoir of Lake Taneycomo. • Life cycle: Most of the trout in Missouri waters come from hatchery-raised broodstock, with the few exceptions of some areas where conditions are suitable for some trout

Fishing • Kayaking • RV camping • Cabins • And more! 84 Cat Hollow Trail, Lebanon, MO • (417) 532-4377 www.FORTNIANGUA.com


Page 12 • April 2018

RiverHillsTraveler.com

MISSOURI ENDANGERED SPECIES OF THE MONTH

Prairie chicken

Characteristics What does it look like?

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rairie chickens once serenaded this region’s settlers with their spring mating songs. Today, experts worry those mournful-sounding coos that are heard much less frequently today could be the species’ swansong in Missouri. In 150 years, Missouri’s prairie chickens have gone from abundance to being one of the state’s endangered species. These chicken-sized birds once thrived on prairie habitat that made up more than one-third of the state in presettlement times. Today, prairie chickens are barely hanging on at a few prairie areas in the southwest and northwest parts of the state. Prairie chickens have become a poster species for Missouri’s vanishing prairie habitat. Before getting to factors that led to the prairie chicken’s demise in Missouri (and throughout much of its range in other states), here are a few facts about the bird. The type of prairie chicken that lives in Missouri is the greater prairie chicken. Another species, the lesser prairie chicken, can be found in a few western states. Prairie chickens are highly mobile and depend on large open expanses of tallgrass prairie. They rarely persist on ranges smaller than several thousand acres, but can be found occasionally on smaller grassland areas if the essentials of food, cover and water are available. While they may venture into pockets of low-growing woody vegetation (shrubby draws, brushy fence rows, etc.), their preferred home is open prairie meadow with adjacent cultivated fields or open areas. The primary foods of prairie chickens are native plants and insects. The coming of agriculture to prairie regions has led to prairie chickens developing an appetite for waste grains such as corn, soybeans and milo. Usually, feeding takes place in early morning and late afternoon. Mid-day is a time for sunning in open areas on cold days and resting in shade on hot days. The birds roost at twilight, roosting on the ground in prairies, hay meadows and pastures. A prairie chicken’s mating activity is what it’s best known for. The

E

ndangered species are specifically designated in the Wildlife Code of Missouri. Here’s the text from the code: (2) The exportation, transportation, or sale of any endangered species of plant or parts thereof, or the sale of or possession with intent to sell any product made in whole or in part from any parts of any endangered species of plant is prohibited. (3) For the purpose of this rule, endangered species of wildlife and plants shall include the following native species designated as endangered in

breeding season begins in early spring and may extend until June. Male birds (cocks) make early morning and late afternoon visits to specific areas – called “booming grounds” or “leks.” Cocks use the same leks from one season to the next for courtship. At the leks; males dance, call, and fight among themselves as they establish territories. Courting males in communal dance will inflate orange neck sacks and erect horn-like feathers (called pinnae). One of the best-known characteristics of prairie chickens is the courtship mating “coo” of the male, which resembles the sound one makes when blowing air across the top of a soft drink bottle. The sound is produced when the male inflates the orange air sacs on his neck and then forcefully exhales the air through his mouth. Eggs are laid in a ground nest built by the female. The nest is a shallow depression among thick, tall grass that is lined with grass and feathers. The average clutch contains about a dozen eggs. Incubation requires about three weeks. The peak hatching period is late May to early June, depending on weather. Chicks remain with the hen for eight to 10 weeks, then the brood breaks up. Prairie chickens were hunted heavily in the 19th century, but it’s theorized habitat disturbance played a bigger role in the bird’s decline in Missouri than hunting did. Missouri outlawed prairie chicken hunting in 1906. As late as the 1940s, the state’s prairie chicken numbers were estimated at 15,000. By then, the bird’s native habitat was rapidly diminishing and that disappearance continued in the ensuing decades. The prairie chicken’s decline is largely attributed to the conversion of prairies to cultivated fields, the overgrazing of remaining grasslands, the introduction of fescue and other nonnative grasses and the encroachment

of tall trees that were not part of the original prairie landscape. Large stretches of prairie that had received intermittent grazing from wildlife began receiving regular – and heavy – grazing from domestic livestock. It should be pointed out that some of these human-introduced features are items that are important to the economy of the region – things like fescue that provides good spring and fall forage and is also harvested for seed, the large herds of livestock that are sources of revenue, crops that supply income for farm operators and, in some areas of former prairie, the homes and communities that sustain our lives. Learning how to balance human dependency on the land with the reliance that species of wildlife have on the same turf is something more farmers and livestock owners are becoming interested in. Good wildlife habitat can be a product of good farming and ranching practices. Providing habitat for grassland species and pollinating insects also can have economic benefits, as well as wildlife advantages. People can learn more about prairie chickens and about the benefits of managing their lands for these birds and other grassland species at mdc.mo.gov.

Gone from Missouri?

Prairie chickens were numerous over Missouri and the central U.S. when the first settlers arrived, but their abundance paled when compared to another bird – the passenger pigeon. Probably the most numerous bird species on earth at one time, the passenger pigeon (Ectopistes migratorius) existed in numbers that, even today, drop the jaws of bird experts. In the early 19th century, it’s estimated there were close to five billion of these birds in North America. Put another way – biologists believe that

Greater prairie chickens are about the size of a domestic chicken. Their coloration is strongly barred brown and tanand-white, especially on the underparts. The tail is short and square, dark brown in males, barred brown and tan in females. Orange-colored air sacs and eyebrows are conspicuous on males in spring.

Tympanuchus cupido

The greater prairie chicken is a wild fowl closely related to grouse, ptarmigans and pheasants. It is highly dependent on the tallgrass prairie that was once abundant throughout much of the Midwest, including Missouri.

Where is it found?

Prairie chickens are highly mobile and prefer large open expanses of well-managed grassland. At present they are found on a few stretches of public and privately owned prairies in Missouri. (source: MDC) in the species’ period of peak abundance, one of every three birds in North America was a passenger pigeon. The last passenger pigeons seen in the wild were shot in Ohio in 1900, but some birds remained in captivity. The world’s last passenger pigeon, named “Martha” by her caretakers, died at 1 p.m. on Sept. 1, 1914, at the Cincinnati Zoo. (source: MDC

WILDLIFE CODE OF MISSOURI Missouri: (A) Mammals: Gray bat, Ozark big-eared bat, Indiana bat, northern long-eared bat, black-tailed jackrabbit, spotted skunk. (B) Birds: Northern harrier, interior least tern, Swainson’s warbler, snowy egret, king rail, Bachman’s sparrow, peregrine falcon, American bittern, greater prairie-chicken. (C) Reptiles: Western chicken turtle, Blanding’s turtle, Illinois mud turtle, yellow mud turtle, Mississippi green water snake, massasauga rattlesnake. (D) Amphibians: eastern hell-

bender, Ozark hellbender. (E) Fishes: Lake sturgeon, pallid sturgeon, taillight shiner, Neosho madtom, spring cavefish, harlequin darter, goldstripe darter, cypress minnow, central mudminnow, crystal darter, swamp darter, Ozark cavefish, Niangua darter, Sabine shiner, mountain madtom, redfin darter, longnose darter, flathead chub, Topeka shiner, grotto sculpin. (F) Mussels: Curtis pearlymussel, Higgins’ eye, pink mucket, fat pocketbook, ebonyshell, elephant ear, winged mapleleaf, sheepnose, snuffbox,

scaleshell, spectaclecase, Neosho mucket, rabbitsfoot, salamander mussel, slippershell mussel. (G) Other Invertebrates: American burying beetle, Hine’s emerald dragonfly, Tumbling Creek cavesnail. (H) Plants: Small whorled pogonia, Mead’s milkweed, decurrent false aster, Missouri bladderpod, geocarpon, running buffalo clover, pondberry, eastern prairie fringed orchid, western prairie fringed orchid, Virginia sneezeweed. (source: MDC)


April 2018 • Page 13

RiverHillsTraveler.com

You CAN catch bass after dark!

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eke Cernea and I had been planning this trip for some time. We were on a small city reservoir just outside Monroe City, Mo. This is a fantastic body of water with plenty of structure and plenty of big bass. We had a specific area of the lake we wanted to fish that night. There were hundreds of submerged logs and trees. We were going to fish two of my favorite methods: for largemouth bass, at night, with large, noisy topwater plugs and also on the bottom with soft plastic baits. Many new challenges arise when fishing after dark. One of the biggest potential problems, especially on a large body of water, is getting lost. Most of your familiar landmarks disappear with the sun. Navigation becomes a little hazardous and sometimes not knowing exactly where you are can get a little tense. I remember one night when a 2 or 3hour catfishing adventure turned into an “all-nighter” because I could not find my marina on Table Rock Lake in Mike Roux SW Missouri. Be sure of your ———— directions and be sure somebody knows where you are supposed to be. Another interesting aspect of night fishing is blind casting. Granted, if you have a good moon, and after your eyes adjust, you can see more than you thought you would. But all too often trees, stumps and even the shore can sneak-up on you at unexpected times in unexpected places. Making a full overhead cast with a level-wind reel and having your lure hit a tree limb five feet out can cause a mess in your reel that you could not get out at noon, much less at midnight. Always be sure you are casting to open water and make sure your casts are shorter than usual. I am not going to dwell long on this next subject, but it does deserve a mention. Night fishing can put you in contact with creeping, crawling, biting, stinging creatures that give daylight anglers little, if any, trouble. Bugs will be your most aggravating adversaries. Mosquitoes drive me nuts, I hate ‘em. Be prepared. Every time you turn on a light to change baits or get a soda or remove a hook from your partner’s arm, bugs will form a cloud around your head. Be prepared. But that is enough of the fun stuff, let’s get serious. The baits you use at night should differ greatly from those used as visual attractors. Audible attractors now become the lures of preference. Large, waterchurning machines that wake up and agitate the bass are what you need now. Here are my suggestions. Buzzbaits can be great baits to aggravate bass at night. Bass have an uncanny ability to find and hit their target at night. Buzzbaits often cause even full or lazy bass to react by striking at the noise and movement. Another great night lure is the “MotoLure.” These baits come in many colors and styles. I personally like baits like the MotoLure. I like chugging them more vigorously at night. I then let the lure vibrate for the full

“I’ll try that point again,” I said, as I released the bass and prepared for my next cast. The MotoLure could not have hit more than a foot from the previous cast. Again on the second set of vibrations things started to happen. There was no splash when this fish hit. There was a slight sucking sound, like the last cup of water going down the bathtub drain and then a massive pulling sensation on my line. Again, I was very definite when I set the hook. This fish did not come to the top and break water like the last one. She went straight for the bottom and we both knew why. She was heading for cover. She was determined to get there and I was determined to keep her in open water. The fight was on. “It’s a dandy,” is all I said to Zeke. He laid his rod down and eased back to lend a hand, if necessary. Zeke and I do not over-estimate our fish. If we hear the other guy say “dandy” we know he means it. You never know what help you might need with a big fish, especially at night. The more hands to the task, the better. This bass stayed down and under the boat. My medium-heavy, six-and-a-half foot casting rod was strained as the bass stripped some line off my reel. “Ya must have her hooked good,” my partner said. “She’s pullin’ hard enough to rip ‘em out otherwise.” I had to be careful because of all the structure, but I finally got her on the other side of the boat, in deeper water. A couple of short runs later she came to the top, but she was not finished yet. When she broke water she began to roll, like most big bass will. She was a

Zeke Cernea has learned the value of night fishing for big bass.

length of its cycle. I do not think you can have a lure make too much noise at night. The more frantic the action, the more chance of coaxing a strike. This MotoLure, in a frog pattern, was the lure I chose to start with that night. Zeke had on a black 10-inch worm and we had a perfect night to test our nocturnal fishing skills. Zeke drew first blood. I felt Zeke set the hook and heard his reel lose a little line. The fish jumped a couple times and the moonlight glistened in the rippling water. Zeke lifted it over the boat and guessed it to be between 4 and 5 pounds. Not a bad start. We continued to fish the cove with very little success. Zeke coaxed another hit, but failed to get a hook set. I, on the other hand, did not turn a fish for the first hour. As we made our way out to the point, my luck changed. I cast my lure across the point in about seven feet of water. On the second chug the water around my lure exploded. I leaned back hard as I set the steel. He fought well but he was not quite as big as Zeke’s first. He was maybe two-and-a half pounds.

Mike Roux takes advantage of cool summer nights to score on really big bass.

handful, but she calmed momentarily, to catch her breath I guess, and Zeke netted her with his right hand as he held the flashlight in his left. “She is a hawg,” was his only comment. Zeke held the light as I gently removed the hooks from her mouth. We weighed and measured her. We took a couple of pictures and I released her as quickly as possible. “Good job, partner,” was the message from the back of the boat. She weighed a bit over 8 pounds and was the heaviest of the ten bass we caught that night. The thrill of a bass of that size on topwater at night cannot be matched. I highly recommend a nighttime bass trip for you this summer. It is exciting and fulfilling. Have fun, but most of all, be safe. (Mike Roux can be reached at 217257-7895.)


Page 14 • April 2018

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Big River offers much more than first meets the eye

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ig River. Seems like an odd name for a stream no larger than it is, but that old river sure has offered many a year of enjoyment. As a young lad I was introduced to it by climbing a large rock and swinging off a rope tied to a big sycamore, then dropping into the deep hole which was so appropriately named Rockhole. Then I discovered that stream offered a lot more than just cooling off on a hot summer afternoon. The month of May has always been eagerly anticipated because it brings the opener of bass season in the streams and the opening of squirrel season, although the weather can be a tad warm so I usually Roger Smith opted for the fish. ———— Many trips were just a simple wade upstream, tossing a topwater Rapala or tadpole close to a log or rootwad and watching the water explode as a smallmouth went on attack. Other trips were a nice float giving me access to holes that didn’t see too much activity. One trip in particular was a lesson learned. Myself and a few buddies decided to go for a 2-day float, bass fishing of the day and catfishing of the night. The only problem was we were focused on the fishing end and nothing else. We shoved off on a warm morning so we were in shorts and T-shirts, not thinking how cool those old river bottoms get at night. But we were young and resilient so that really didn’t factor into the equation. We had a nice fire going, as it got late (and cooler) most gave it up and curled up on the bare gravel bar as close as they could get to the fire. Not me!

I was determined I was going to haul old whiskers out that night. Besides, the crackling of the fire and the croaking of the bullfrogs was mesmerizing. Until I was taught another valuable lesson. I had a couple cans of beanie weanies left as rations so I sat them in the fire to warm up while I fished. Problem was, at the time I didn’t realize you needed to crack the top open. Well, I found out when they got to the point of exploding! It was quite a scene with me hopping around the gravel bar feverishly trying to get the scalding beans off my head and at the same time the party that had been slumbering by the fire was in escape mode from the sound of the explosion. Needless to say, I wasn’t very popular the rest of the trip. But hungry and tired we finished out the float the next day, although fishing had taken a back seat to reaching our take-out point. From year to year that river changes from the flooding, what is a gravel bar may be a deep hole 2 years later so it always offers a challenge to finding the right spot. And the variety of fish is nice — smallmouth bass, Kentucky bass, spotted bass, rock bass (or goggle eye as

we call them), all different species of perch along with bullhead, channel cat and flatheads. Of course there’s the less desirable, such as gar and sucker. It’s also fun to use live bait while wading; nothing like letting a minnow or crawdad drift down under a log and feeling that hard tug to get the adrenaline going. Another challenge, and a great time, is to use an ultralight setup and some flies. Even a nice size perch puts up a fair struggle and if you hook into a lurking bass you better know how to use the drag system on your reel. If fishing isn’t on the agenda, it’s always been a nice casual float to take the family on without fear of challenging whitewater. Lined with bluffs that contain several caves, plenty of gravel bars to picnic on and lots of deep holes to cool off along the way. And if you’re lucky enough you’ll often stumble across an arrowhead the river has turned up on a gravel bar. The Mississippian Indian tribe traveled and lived along that river in the late 1800’s, so as you drift past those cave entrances it’s not hard to imagine a few of them sitting back with a fire going and fresh meat roasting over it. And it passes through Washington State Park where many petroglyphs can

be found. Big River starts in Iron County as a trickle close to Council Bluffs lake and ends up meetinging with the Meramac river some 145 miles later. It is a long, twisting meandering stream, where it flows through St. Francois County, known as the leadbelt. The river was contaminated years ago by mine tailings from the lead mines but most of that has washed away over time and not much trace of it is left. It doesn’t flow as well as it did years ago, though the mining company kept the mines pumped out years after the mines closed. The water was pumped into Big River which kept it at a nice level yearround but they eventually shut down the pumps so it is now dependent on Mother Nature.

Don’t be fooled, though, when we get heavy rains that river comes up fast from all the runoff and gets violent. So if you plan on an overnight trip be sure and check the weather forecast prior to going. It has access points in every county which can be found on the Missouri Conservation Department’s website and Bonne Terre has a canoe rental where you can opt for a canoe, raft or tube. Big River is not as renowned as Current River, Black River and some of the others but it still has its share of tablefare to offer up. (Roger Smith lives in Bonne Terre, Mo., and can be reached at n0uss@yahoo.com)


April 2018 • Page 15

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Learning what ‘too close to the river’ means

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n the late 1950’s my parents and grandparents purchased a place we were soon to call home. Together they wanted to do some farming and have some milk cows. On this place was one house, a concrete block dairy barn, and a hay barn. Our grandparents lived in the house because they were old. (When you are a kid, all grandparents are old, right?) We got the dairy barn. Dad was going to turn it into a home for us. There had been running water to the barn at one time, so after some new plumbing Dad got water to the building. He built a makeshift cabinet and acquired an old sink. Now we had Tom water. Boydston The grandparents ———— were tired of us using their bathroom, so we dug a deep hole and built an outhouse; a “two-holer.” I still don’t understand two holes. I sure wouldn’t want to share. Next, Dad bought an old gas range and got a propane tank. It worked pretty good. We had some furniture, so that was no problem. Before winter came on, he got a wood stove and built a flue. Guess what we two boys got the privilege of doing! Yep, cut firewood. Boy, what fun. In the meantime Dad built on a couple rooms. He divided the main part into two rooms. Now, Mom and Dad had their bedroom, my sister had her room, and us two boys shared a room. That winter was very cold at night. With concrete block walls and no insulation, it was very cold away from the stove. The old stove was one of those thin wall jobs that would get red hot and you couldn’t get within four feet of it or you would get burned. Didn’t have to worry about catching the place on fire because it was con-

crete. When the walls became warm it actually helped warm the “house.” The problem was the stove would not hold a fire over night. The windows would frost over on the inside. We used to say “you had to wet the bed just to stay warm at night.” At this time we had no bathroom, no bath tub, and no hot water heater, so when bath time came around, which was not every night believe me, it was something else. We had a round galvanized tub in which to take our baths. Mom heated water on the range and the wood stove. There were three of us kids. My younger sister, my older brother, and me. Well, we know who got the first bath. While she bathed, mom started heating up more water. In the same water, plus a little more warm water, my brother, being the eldest, was next. He didn’t take very long, and I was last. By this time the water wasn’t very clean, and the water on the stoves did not have time to get hot, or even warm. It didn’t take me very long, either. Dad worked hard getting our home in shape. Within a couple of years he had plumbing throughout the house. We had a real bathroom, a tub, a sink, a stool, and a hot water heater. No more cold, dirty water baths. He had built a large fireplace in the living room which really helped heat the house.

He had built mom some kitchen cabinets, and even built us a front porch. The place was beginning to look more like a house than a barn. It was also starting to feel like home. Everything was done over a long period of time and us kids didn’t realize just how much time and work Dad put into making us a nice home. The old hay barn set no more than thirty feet from the back door of our house. After a while, Dad bought a few milk cows. Dad stored the grain and feed and we did the milking in this barn. About thirty yards north of our house and the hay barn was the spring-fed creek, which ran year-round. Dad worked the creekbanks down so we had a drive to the house. He also built a

walking bridge across the creek. When we got heavy-heavy rains the creek would flood. The creek made a 90-degree turn right at the back of the hay barn. This caused the fast water to jump the bank and run right into the back of the barn, through the barn, out the front, and hit the back of the house. As long as the back door of the house held we only got a little water in the house, and after the water went down we had one heck of a mess to clean up. Well, that’s life in the country. Looking back, I can’t see how Dad could do all that he did and hold down a job, and even at times two jobs. As much as I like that life, there is no way I could do all he did. This was the first place we ever owned. I am sure that is why he worked so hard to make a home for us. I lived there until I grew up and left home. I loved that farm, and will always call it the old homeplace. There are people living in the house, and it has done well over the years. Over the past 60 years the hay barn has fallen in and part of the roof has fallen in, and the rest of the roof could go any time on our house (dairy barn). The creek still runs and so, too, do the memories. (Tom Boydston lives in Neosho, Mo., and can be reached by text at 417-4396048.)

Mom learns how to back up a trailer the hard way

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y mother traveled by herself after my father passed away and pulled a large Air Stream trailer with a one-ton van. She traveled with a group of other Air Streamers around the country. Mom had no qualms towing that big rig that was as long as an 18-wheeler from one part of the country to another driving by herself. The only problem she had with that big rig was backing it up. She would be very careful not to pull into a place that she could not pull straight out from; that was until she traveled to Canada. While traveling on a section of new road after a bad storm the night before, there was much mud Bob Brennecke ———— on the shoulders of the newlyconstructed road. In fact, there were no shoulders on the road, just a one-foot drop to the mud on either side. Mom said she saw flashing lights behind her so she slowed down and since there was no other place to pull over, she stopped. Mom had been pulled over by a Royal Mounted policeman. The policeman said, “I know it was not your fault since the wind blew the warning signs down 2 miles

back near the entrance ramp, but there is a bridge under construction ahead and the trailer would not fit under it.” He also said “she would have to back that long van and trailer 2 miles back to the entrance intersection.” She immediately said she couldn’t do it. The policeman said there was no choice, the shoulders of the road were all mud and the trailer and van were too long to turn around on the highway. The Mounty then said that he would walk with her directing her through the process if she would follow his instructions and didn’t get upset. She had a hard time at first with the backing but after two miles she became an expert and was not afraid to go anyplace after that.

KOA gypsies When mom was traveling home from a trip to Florida one spring, she became tired and decided to pull into the only camping spot for miles, a KOA camp, for the night. As she pulled in all the spots close to the facilities, bathhouse and toilets, and the shady spots, were taken by campers that looked like the Grapes of Wrath setups. The clothes lines were full of drying clothes, kids running all over, and trash laying about. She decided that instead of hooking up to the water,

she would clean up at the shower house and leave early in the morning. The decision to use the shower house was made because Mom always brought home loads of tomatoes, strawberries, and anything that was in season in Florida and not up North. These items were stored in bushel baskets in the bathroom shower, hence the bathhouse decision. She wore her brightly-colored moo moo, took her towel, shower clogs, soap and wash cloth and started her walk a good distance to the shower house from her parking spot. When she was done showering, she reached for her towel on the outside of the shower door and it was gone. She then fumbled for her moo moo which she found was gone also. The only thing she had to cover up with from the shower house to the trailer was a wash cloth, soap and shower clogs. What to do? Well, she covered up the best she could and walked briskly down the road back to her trailer. She said later that “life is full of lessons,” so she learned what not to do when showering at a bath house. (Bob Brennecke lives in Ballwin, Mo., and can be reached at robertbrennecke@hotmail.com.)


Page 16 • April 2018

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Registration now open for Missouri-Mississippi river adventure in the fall

By Brooke Widmar Stream Teams United has scheduled the dates for Paddle MO 2018 for Sept. 19-23. Take part in this adventure down the last 100 miles of the Missouri River, starting in Hermann, Missouri, and ending at the confluence as North America’s longest river meets the Mississippi River. Along the way, explore riverside small towns, learn about Missouri River history, and enjoy locally-sourced food from the Missouri River Valley. Registration is open now and limited to the first 100 participants. Paddlers can choose to float the entire five days, or can opt for just the weekend trip. Your Paddle MO registration fee is all inclusive for five days and includes a Tshirt, boat decal, journal with maps and river descriptions, camping with facilities beginning Sept. 18, daily transportation, gear transportation, meals, entertainment, activities, educational opportunities, insurance, and special swag from our sponsors. Add-ons are available, such as a seat

in the June Bug canoe, guided by Big Muddy Mike, kayak and canoe rental, and various beginning and end of trip shuttling options. We are working to change aspects of the trip to keep it interesting for returning paddlers, while also keeping the unique features. This fall, full-week paddlers will start on Wednesday at Hermann Riverfront Park, and the weekend paddlers will join the group in St. Charles, giving everyone the opportunity to experience popular educational stops like Pelican Island, and the breathtaking and exhilarating confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. Exciting new education features and topics will be added, directed by Bill and Jody Miles of Earth’s Classroom. “Paddle MO makes me accept a more direct relationship with the Missouri River, with more of a concern for it’s welfare,” said one 2017 paddler. Secure your place for this unique journey now at PaddleMO.org.

Commission hands down fines, suspensions

The Missouri Conservation Commission met on Friday, Feb. 9, and suspended or revoked one or more hunting,

fishing, or trapping privileges of 11 individuals for cause: • Michael J. Abounader, St. Louis, Hunting and Fishing, additional one year; • David L. Black, Marshall, hunting and fishing, one year; • Louis G. Fulton, St. Joseph, all sport, one year; • James L. Groves, Greenville, fishing, one year; • Terry D. Hubrins, Malden, all sport, one year; • Kevin R. Marion, Neosho, fishing, one year; • Eric H. Mitchell, Ava, hunting, one year; • Emily S. Parker, Liberty, all sport, one year; • Aleksandr D. Postevka, Marshfield, hunting, one year; • Cameron C. Udo, Strafford, all sport, one year; and • Josh D. Windsor, Fredericktown, all sport, one year.! !! • Suspended or revoked all hunting and fishing privileges of 325people not in compliance with child support laws. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, and trapping privileges of 509 individuals in accordance with the terms of the Interstate Wildlife Violator Compact.

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April 2018 • Page 17

RiverHillsTraveler.com

Planning a road trip from Missouri to Montana

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arch is a month at the end of winter when the thoughts of spring travel emerge with the greening of grass. This year the duties and visits that culminate around Easter will be over by April 1, which leaves the rest of April and all of May a time to travel when families are NOT. March Madness is over and all the sports fans are home again. Only schoolchildren on school-sponsored trips are centering on the cities, which makes those cities a place to avoid for the rest of us during this time. Why not strike out and go north through the unfettered and unpopulated prairies our ancestors crossed with courage and gumption, laced with a fair amount of determination and even some justiJudy Smith fiable ignorance. ———— Daniel Boone opened the Wilderness Road passage through the Cumberland Gap in March of 1775. President Thomas Jefferson bought the Louisiana Purchase in April of 1803. Lewis, Clark and Sacajawea crossed from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean in the northwest. This trip took two years, 1804 to 1806. You can do the same trip in two weeks and you will get the better feeling of it all if you drive. I am not a tour guide or agent, and I am not in the pay of any Chamber of Commerce luring you to any community. I am just a curious American with a minimum of knowledge of the history and geography of the Midwest which has always been my home. But having seen what I have seen, the “teacher” in me wants to urge others onto the trail. Like others did for the western trails, I suggest starting from Kansas City or its suburb, Independence. Missouri, is a beautiful state from its southern border, up both sides and through the middle. Whether you begin at Neosho, Branson or Cape Girardeau, getting to Kansas City will be beautiful. Strike out for Nebraska City and experience the width of the Missouri River Valley unencumbered by dense

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Older Than Dirt Quiz ount all the ones that you have experienced. Ratings are at the bottom. 1.! Blackjack! chewing gum and Teaberry. 2. Wax Coke-shaped bottles with colored sugar water. 3. Candy cigarettes. 4. Soda pop machines that dispensed!glass bottles. 5. Coffee shops or diners with tableside jukeboxes.! 6. Home milk delivery in glass bottles with cardboard stoppers. 7. Party lines!on the telephone. 8. Newsreels before the movie. 9. P.F. Flyers. 10. Butch wax.! 11. TV test patterns that came on at night after the last show and were there until TV shows started again in the morning. (There were only three chan-

You can use your own imagination as you drive thru the tall prairie grasses with the sun shadowing your trail. The covered wagon or Indian travois in your imagination is in reality your silhouetted family truck. Reality be damned. You are on vacation from reality.

population centers. At Nebraska City (which, believe it or not, was also part of the Santa Fe trail) you can begin your circle of discovery. I have enjoyed the places I am going to list, but it is not an exhaustive list and as you will be “on the road” you may wander at will. Just be careful to stay gassed up as there are long and lingering empty stretches. The suggested route is to turn west at Nebraska City. They have a Lewis and Clark museum and the home of Arbor Day with Arbor Lodge and Arboretum. The Leids Conference Center is a great stopover, built in the style of the sturdy log lodges of Depression days but modern in every way. Continue on toward Lincoln, Neb. This is a nice university town as a place to spend time or, if not, it is easy to drive through. The next place to check out is near Scotts Bluff, Neb. Specifically, it is a bed and breakfast with the name Barn Again B&B. It is minutes from Chimney Rock and very near the ruts in the road of the Oregon Trail. I have stayed at B&Bs at home and abroad but this one is the favorite my husband discovered nine years ago.

Every room has authentic historical items. We were in the Pony Express room. Google it! And if you stay there, take all the advice of places to see from the owners… I hope those I met are still there. The gentleman has a fascinating personal history of long trail rides and builds sheep-kitchen wagons. Make sure you drive through Nebraska along the North Platt River. I heard it said, “It’s a slow moving river they USED going west.” The “they” are geese, ducks, and sand hill cranes and, of course, the occasional pioneers. Don’t miss lunch at Wall Drug Store, or the Train Tower at North Platt. It never occurred to me to wonder how trains get all their cars lined up for going to differing destinations, but you can watch this mammoth operation from a tower at the Union Pacific Bailey Yard in North Platt. Think of it as the forerunner of Air Traffic Control. I suggest you think of Great Falls, Montana, as your turn-around destination. On the way there, lots of places in Wyoming are worth the visit, and I especially like the long authentic western Main Street in Sheridan. Midwestern towns have squares — which computes to four streets of storefronts plus ones leading to the Square

with the ubiquitous courthouse. Western towns seem to have Main Streets and Sheridan’s is 19 blocks long with the courthouse at one end. At Great Falls you can visit the Charles M. Russell Museum, and home. “Charley” Russell’s family lived in a “well-to-do” neighborhood of St. Louis. Born there in 1880, Charley traveled as a teenager to Great Falls, known then as Great Falls of the Missouri River. He made Great Falls his home. When an artist chooses to live in a place, you can bet it is beautiful. Russell, along with Fredrick Remington, is today recognized as a classic painter of Western life and landscape in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In fact, the Charley Russell Museum, which holds much of his art, is recognized as the Mecca of the Western genre art with its show and auction held each March since 1969. This past year 1,000 people attended the three-day event and sales at the auctions surpassed five million dollars. One story from the press office relates that one fellow guest fell in love with an original art piece at the Friday night auction. He had never before bought a piece of original art, but he sold his truck to buy his first piece of original art at the Charley Russell auction. The last stopover, or the first if you reverse the route from Nebraska City, should be Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Last year the Wall Street Journal marked Sioux Falls as a place not to be missed. It is not big, but it is old and grand as well as trendy with boutiques and a world-class bakery. The walks laid out along the falls are a treat for the eye and physical well-being. There is a type of red granite through there that is unique and the grand granite buildings really look like they are built of marble stones, not facing.!The bed of the falls is also of this granite and, therefore, exceptionally beautiful.! The nearby city of Brookings has the beautiful McCrory gardens and is also a university town. Towns that have colleges and universities are by definition full of things you can choose to learn about. Mixing learning and beauty is a wonderful sort of vacation. I urge you on to plan something for yourself. (Judy Haas Smith lives in Neosho.)

CATCH A SMILE nels, if you were lucky).! 12. Peashooters. 13.!Howdy Doody. 14. 45 RPM records.! 15. S&H green stamps.! 16. Hi-fi’s. 17. Metal ice trays with lever.! 18. Mimeograph paper. 19. Blue flashbulb. 20. Packards. 21. Roller skate keys. 22. Cork popguns.! 23. Drive-ins. 24. Studebakers. 25. Wash tub wringers.! If you remembered 0-5 — You’re still young. If you remembered 6-10 — You are getting older.! If you remembered 11-15 — Don’t tell your age. If you remembered 16-25 — You’re older than dirt!

Missouri Trivia Quiz (answers at the bottom) 1. What southeastern Missouri city is named for the French trader Jean Girardot? 2. Which historic resort town in southern Missouri was founded along the White River in 1917? 3. Which cave, located near Camdenton, was named for a legend involving a Native American wedding that was said to have taken place inside the cave? 4. In Lexington, Mo., is the oldest county courthouse in continuous use west of the Mississippi River. What is the name of the county? 5. What is the only Missouri county named for a type of tree? 6. What are the eight states that share borders with the state of Missouri? Answers 1. Cape Girardeau

2. Rockaway Beach 3. Bridal Cave 4. Lafayette County 5. Cedar County (Hickory County is named for Andrew Jackson) 6. Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma and Kansas. ——— So I was in Walmart earlier and a lady was looking at frozen turkeys, but she couldn’t find one big enough. She asked the stock boy, “Do these turkeys get any bigger?’’ He replied with a straight face, “No ma’am, they’re dead.” — Tom Boydston (If you have an amusing story, a funny joke or a quotation or saying that you have enjoyed and would like to share, please send it to: Bill Wakefield, 9707 Pauline Place, Affton MO 63123; or email me at w3@charter.net.)


Page 18 • April 2018

RiverHillsTraveler.com

BLUFF from 1 For example, high water has resulted in rock-covered campground loops, loss of nearly 30 percent of the campsites, and damage to roads and restroom facilities. After the spring 2017 flood, the Federal Highways Administration made a decision to work with the Forest Service to fund and move sections of the main camping loop roads (Forest Road 2011) out of the 100-year floodplain and reconstruct them on higher ground. This created an opportunity for the Forest Service to move overnight camping out of the 100-year floodplain and construct new campsites along the new segments of Forest Road 2011. Campers, neighbors and other interested members of the public participated in the design of new facilities by providing valuable information about their camping and day-use preferences at Red Bluff. The comments received were used to develop the final design and proposal. The Forest Service completed the environmental analysis for the project in February. The Forest Service’s final decision includes the following: • Pines Overlook camping loop will remain in its current location. Based on public comments, campsites will remain non-electric. Pines Overlook would have up to one double and seven

single campsites. • An overlook platform would be constructed to offer safe viewing of the beautiful Huzzah Creek and red bluffs. • One new segment of Forest Road 2011 will become the South Loop. There would be up to one double and 19 single campsites, a restroom, and a shower facility. • Another segment of the new Forest

Road 2011 will be divided into the Group Loop and the North Loop. Nine double campsites will be constructed in the Group Loop, along with a restroom. Up to 22 single and two double campsites would be built along the North Loop, with a restroom, and shower facility. A fee-for-use RV dump station could be constructed near the North Loop. • A host campsite would be placed along the South Loop, with a secondary host site at the entrance to the North Loop. A new electrified picnic pavilion would be constructed where the current host site is located. Some campers expressed a desire to have non-electric options, especially for tent campers. Because of that, some sites in the South Loop, North Loop, and Group Loop would be non-electric. • Another comment heard loud and clear is the desire for space and vegetative screening between campsites and adjacent private land to promote privacy. While a maximum number of 63 sites have been planned, the actual number of sites in each loop will be based on conditions found during design layout and construction, specifically related to slope, existing shade, privacy, safety considerations, accessibility, and other factors. It is reasonable to expect 40 to 63 campsites at Red Bluff when all is said and done.

At this time, there is funding from the Federal Highways Administration Betterment Fund to construct the new segments of Forest Road 2011 in 20182019. On-the-ground road work could begin in summer 2018. Funding has not been received for the construction of camping spurs, restrooms, shower facilities, or dump station. It is possible that construction of the new camping facilities could occur in stages and over a period of more than one year. Therefore, the Forest Service will keep the campsites in the existing upper and lower camping loops open until the new camping loops are completed. The long-term goal of the project is to remove facilities located within the 100-year floodplain and restore the floodplain to a functioning state, while incorporating light-on-the-land day-use amenities to ensure visitors continue to have a connection to Huzzah Creek. Additional public involvement to discuss future day-use plans will occur when the Forest Service receives the final flood inundation survey maps, later in 2018 or possibly in 2019. Until then, the existing picnic pavilion will remain open. (Becky Ewing is the district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, Potosi-Fredericktown Ranger District. She can be reached by email at rewing@fs.fed.us.)

last year. We’ll look at waders while we are there, too, and a new turkey call would be nice and we need to check out some new camo stuff, face paint, and all that. This is also the time of the year that we start visiting the plant nurseries and checking out all the landscaping stuff at Home Depot and Lowe’s. There are plans rolling around in our heads for new flower beds and greener lawns. Turkey hunters are practicing their calls. Turkey calling contests are being scheduled around town and, of course, if you’re one of those people who are into trying to outwit one of those very smart birds, your attendance and support at these events are needed.

Little league baseball teams are being formed and are practicing and fathers are looking into the future and seeing major league possibilities for their kids. Just being outdoors without having to wear thirty pounds of extra clothing is a big plus, too. I’m a walker in the mornings before breakfast and the cold winter temperatures have forced me to do a lot of my early morning walks indoors on the treadmill. The treadmill is OK but even while listening to some good music, it doesn’t match up at all with walking outside in the fresh air. Anytime the temperature is below thirty degrees, I do the treadmill. If the temperature is between thirty and forty degrees, I do walk outside but with a heavy jacket, gloves, sock cap and long pants. It sure is nice on warm mornings to go out for a walk wearing shorts and a T-shirt and not have to worry about frostbite or slipping on ice. My wife and I recently made a visit to the Missouri Botanical Gardens in St. Louis and though everything wasn’t in full bloom yet, we did find crocuses, daffodils and witch hazel in bloom.

Even though there was a limited amount of flowers abloom during our early season visit, the gardens are still impressive. We make it a point to visit there several times a year and it never disappoints. Our visits there are usually on a Sunday morning after stopping at an IHOP on the way for breakfast. A visit there makes one want to go home and start working on their yards. It is just important to just get outside and soak up some of that sunshine out there. Whatever that thing is that you have been daydreaming about all winter — be it fishing, camping, traveling, mountain climbing, hiking, outdoor cooking, picnicking, chasing those elusive turkeys, gardening, playing baseball, tennis or whatever — just get out there and do it because we all know that time can sure fly by quickly and before you know what has happened, the warm days will be gone and those snowflakes will be flying around again, leaving us to face another long, cold winter. Just take a look outside… spring is finally here! (Bill Oder can be reached at oderbill@yahoo.com.)

SPRING from 1 ing up to sub-zero weather during a long cold spell that seemed to last for an eternity, causing our furnaces to run nonstop, springtime seemed so far away. Those winter days can seem so long sometimes. Cabin fever is indeed a problem when even a trip to Walmart is something to get excited about. But we made it. Now kids are counting the days when school is out. Gardening catalogs are arriving in the mail and people are planning vegetable gardens and flower beds. How many tomato plants should we plant this year? How about we plant some grape vines this year or how about some of those gourds or pumpkins? These are some of the questions that are being discussed over coffee at this time of year. Fishermen and fisherwomen are thinking about getting their gear cleaned up and ready to go. Trips to Cabela’s and Bass Pro are needed because we are certain we need to replace that old fishin’ pole this year for sure, and maybe there was a leak in those waders that was noticed on that last trip


April 2018 • Page 19

RiverHillsTraveler.com

DILLO from 1 size of a small dog with nine bands or rings of hard shell covering most of its body. It has a small head, beady eyes and claws on its feet. It would not win any beauty contests and looks prehistoric, if ever an animal looked prehistoric. But it has an excellent nose and with the help of its claws for digging, manages to survive on a variety of plants and insects. Surprisingly, the armadillo is a mammal, not a reptile. That means it breeds like all other mammals; frankly, I am not sure how they get the job done with both parties wearing a suit of armor but apparently they do. Except for a presumed period of “courtship” during the mating season (which is also hard to imagine), the armadillo is a loner. Their lifespan is believed to be seven to ten years. Although the armadillo looks slow, it actually can scoot around relatively fast when necessary. One commentator says they can travel 20 miles per hour but I doubt that the commentator actually used a stopwatch to confirm this. The armadillo also has the ability to leap into the air three or four feet as a means of startling would-be predators. But perhaps the most intriguing thing about this ancient animal is its ability to cross bodies of water. This can be done in one of two ways. First, it has the ability to hold its breath while it crosses a small stream under water. Second, for crossing larger bodies of water, it can force large amounts of air into its lungs and intestines and then float across as if on an inflatable raft; the tail acts as a rudder and the feet do a dog

paddle — pretty cool for a prehistoric animal, don’t you think? But here is an even more important thing to know about the nine-banded armadillo: Some nine-banded armadillos are infected with “Hansen’s disease.” If that doesn’t get your attention, what if I told you “Hansen’s disease” is the politically correct name for leprosy? Those of you who were alive in the 1940’s can probably remember as a child hearing ghastly tales about leprosy — the ancient disease that supposedly was highly infectious, incurable and perceived as God’s curse. If you caught leprosy, it meant that you would spend the rest of your life secluded in a leper colony deep in the Louisiana swamps. The reason why armadillos are susceptible to leprosy is because they normally have a much lower body temperature than other mammals, including humans. The bacterium that causes leprosy thrives in this lower body temperature, which is believed to be 93 degrees. Not all nine-banded armadillos have leprosy. Recent tests revealed that about 15% of the nine-banded armadillos in

the UnitedStates currently have leprosy. Interestingly enough, before Europeans immigrated to North and South America, it is thought that the armadillo did not have the disease, so it looks as though they got it from us rather than vise-versa. Leprosy is no longer believed to be the highly contagious disease that it was once thought to be. Nor is it incurable despite the fact that there are 250,000 new cases per year world-wide. It is treatable with a specific antibiotic. Nearly all of the new cases occur in India, China, Vietnam and parts of Africa, where the necessary antibiotic is unavailable. In the United States, there are only about 150 new cases per year and many of these cases appear to involve people who had been exposed while traveling or living outside the United States. As far as I can tell, very few people here gotten leprosy from roughhousing with an armadillo in the back yard or eating one at a church potluck. Still, the Center for Disease Control (CDC) strongly recommends that people in the United States not handle armadil-

los or eat them. Frankly, the risks of contracting leprosy are minimal. This is because most humans — perhaps 95% of us — are unlikely to contract the disease because of our genetic makeup. Still, why take the chance by handling or eating an armadillo? Or to put it another way, would you really want it posted on your Facebook page that you have a “touch of leprosy”? Unfortunately, the stigma of the disease is still with us even though the disease is treatable and not nearly as contagious as believed for centuries. Note: There really was a leper colony in rural Louisiana that operated from 1894 until 1999, when it was officially closed. At the time of closure, there were still 20 residents, many of whom had lived there most of their lives almost in complete seclusion. They did not want to leave — sadly, they had no family to go home to — and to this day, about 15 of those patients are still there living out their lives in solitude. (Bill Hoagland has practiced law for more than 50 years in Madison County, Ill., and lives in the Alton area. He and his wife, Annie, have been outdoor enthusiasts all of their lives. He can be reached at billhoagland70@gmail.com.)

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