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VOL. 45, NO. 10
APRIL 2018
www.riverhillstraveler.com
Spring is finally here!
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pring has got to be the best season of the year. I’m sure all of the allergy sufferers will probably disagree with that statement but putting aside all the stuff that’s floating around in the air out there making us sneeze and our eyes water, you just can’t beat the warmer weather, the longer stretches of daylight each day, all the crocuses and daffodils and tulips and cherry blossoms starting to make their appearance, the opening of trout seaBill Oder son, all the hopeful ———— expectations of the upcoming baseball season, morel mushrooms popping out of the ground like popcorn, turkeys gobbling in the woods, and so much more. Back in January, when we were wak-
New camping options at Red Bluff area
Please see SPRING, 18
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By Becky Ewing he U.S. Forest Service has made a decision on how to proceed with the rehabilitation of Mark Twain National Forest’s Red Bluff Recreation Area. This campground and water day-use area is located along Huzzah Creek, near Davisville, in Crawford County, Missouri. The premise for the Red Bluff Safety and Rehabilitation Project is based on the fact that devastating flood events occur along Huzzah Creek on a 2-3 year cycle. Flash flood events pose a risk to the safety of unsuspecting campers while both flash floods and prolonged precipitation floods add to the deferred maintenance costs.
Please see BLUFF, 18
Don’t fire up the grill for that armadillo just yet
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By Bill Hoagland he lowly armadillo has finally arrived in Missouri. It has only taken several million years, but he made it. And in case you did not know it, prior to the point in time when North and South America were linked by the formation of the Isthmus of Panama, there
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were no armadillos in North America; they only lived in South America. But once that continental link was formed, roughly 2.8 million years ago, at least one species of armadillo — the nine-banded armadillo — packed its bags and headed north. The nine-banded armadillo is about the Please see DILLO, 19
Page 2 • April 2018
RiverHillsTraveler.com
Read this before taking your ATV into the forest
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By Becky Ewing pring is here and people will be hitting the woods and water to enjoy the long-awaited warmer days. While fishing, spring wild turkey hunting, and searching for morels are still the most popular spring season pursuits, trail riding with off-highway vehicles is fast becoming a popular activity in Mark Twain National Forest. All-terrain vehicle (ATV) and utility task vehicle (UTV) sales continue to trend upward because this equipment is so versatile in work, home, and recreation pursuits. Mark Twain National Forest has nearly 125 miles of trails and countless roads open to off-highway vehicles. Before heading out for a ride through the woods, arm yourself with information to make your trip a success. And remember, responsible recreation is in your hands – follow these “Tread Lightly” principles: • T — Travel responsibly. Ride only where motorized vehicles are permitted on Mark Twain National Forest. Motorcycles, ATVs, and UTVs less than 50 inches in width are permitted at Chadwick Motorcycle and ATV Use Area in Christian County and at Sutton Bluff Motorcycle and ATV Use Area in Reynolds County. Forest Service riding permits are required at both areas. Daily and seasonal permits are available for purchase through the Forest Service and some local vendors. Off-highway vehicles are permitted on Forest Service roads designated as being “open to highway vehicles” on the official Mark Twain National Forest Motor Vehicle Use Map, but only in counties where ATV and UTV county permits are issued. On-the-ground, Forest Service roads will be physically numbered with a brown Carsonite post. The post will display the road identification number and the distance for which the road is open for riding. Motorcycles, ATVs and UTVs must meet Missouri state motor vehicle regulations to be allowed on designated Forest Service roads, and must adhere to regulations for that county in regard to permits, flags, and lights when riding on county or Forest Service roads. • R — Respect the rights of others. Respect the rights of hikers, campers, hunters and others to enjoy their activities undisturbed. Leave gates and other barriers as you found them and do not ride around them. Respect private land and landowners by staying on designated roads and trails. Always ask permission before crossing private lands. • E — Educate yourself. Gather maps and review regulations before your trip. Check with the county to obtain an ATV/UTV county permit. Free Motor Vehicle Use Maps can be obtained at all Mark Twain National Forest offices, on the web at www.fs.usda.gov/main/mtnf, or through
On-the-ground, Forest Service roads open to motorized use will be marked with a brown Carsonite sign having two numbers. The four-digit number is the road identifier and corresponds to the Motor Vehicle Use Map. Pay careful attention to the number on the decal because it identifies the distance from the post in which the road is open for travel; beyond that mileage, the road is not open to motorized vehicles.
the use of a free smartphone app called Avenza. The latter is useful because the phone’s GPS location can be set to show on the free Motor Vehicle Use Maps, giving you the confidence in knowing you are on a designated road or trail. A new regulation went into effect in September 2017 for motorcycles, ATV, and UTV on Forest Service trails — no operator is allowed to carry passengers unless the machine has been specifically designed by the manufacturer to carry more than one person. • A — Avoid sensitive areas. Unique and special habitats provide homes for Missouri’s rare species, such as rocky glades, springs, fens, and sinkhole ponds. These can be quickly destroyed when off-highway vehicles stray from designated roads and trails. Keeping to designated routes protects wildlife habitat and ground nesters such as turkeys. You will also be ensuring that historic and pre-historic sites are protected for generations to come. • D — Do your part. Practice safe riding habits by wearing an approved helmet and displaying a slow-moving vehicle sign and flag on the ATV or UTV when on designated Forest Service roads. Avoid the spread of non-native invasive plants by keeping your machine
Share your photos with the Traveler! Send us your travel, fishing, camping or other outdoors photos and we will publish them in our next issue. Text them to us at (417) 451-3798, along with the pertinent info, or email them to
jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com
clean. Dispose of your trash properly. Protect the environment by staying on the trail and road tread. Model responsible trail riding behavior and leave the area better than you found it. Tread lightly! (Becky Ewing is the district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, PotosiFredericktown Ranger District. She can be reached by email at rewing@fs.fed.us.)
Motor Vehicle Use Maps are free and show what Forest Service roads are open to highway legal vehicles. The maps will also identify roads with seasonal closures or restrictions. Maps are available at Forest Service offices and can be downloaded from Mark Twain National Forest’s website or through smartphone apps, such as Avenza.
April 2018 • Page 3
RiverHillsTraveler.com
Exploring the underground beauty of Missouri
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From staff reports here are nearly 7,000 registered and mapped caves in Missouri, lending credence to the nickname of the "cave state."! The surrounding area of Central Missouri's Lake of the Ozarks is home to 300 "wild" caves and three spectacular "show" caves, offering intrepid explorers and first-time cavers!an entertaining way to learn about geology, hydrology and anthropology while!discovering the underground beauty found at the Lake of the Ozarks. The lake's "show" caves are wild caves that have been "tamed" through tremendous work and expense. They feature paved walkways, bridges, hand rails and lights that have been installed for the convenience of viewing nature's subterranean sights safely and with little effort. No special clothing or equipment is necessary to tour these caves. Though, with constant temperatures between 5060 degrees, depending upon the cave, visitors are encouraged to dress appropriately. Bridal Cave, located near Camdenton, has a history steeped in Native American legend and lore, including a storied wedding within its walls which gives the cave its name. Bridal Cave was!formed some 42-46 million years ago and features massive columns, stalagmites, large draperies, a lake whose origins are a mystery and the most onyx formations of any known cave or cavern. And, of course, there's the stalactite adorned Bridal Chapel, where over 3,300 couples from around the world have exchanged their vows. Glamour magazine recently named Bridal Cave as one of the top-10 "craziest, most-awesome places to get married." Guided tours are available yeararound. For more information on the history of Bridal Cave, wedding arrangements, tour schedules and admission prices, visit www.BridalCave.com. In Jacob's Cave, near Versailles, visitors can see geological evidence of six ice ages and three earthquakes among other natural wonders. Jacob's Cave was the first commercialized cave in the area and opened for tourists in 1932. It is the largest cave in the Lake area and is famous for its depth illusion, reflective pools, prehistoric bones of a mastodon and peccary, as well as the largest geode in the world.
Ozark Caverns is located in Lake of the Ozarks State Park, near Linn Creek.
at!Ozark Caverns, located!in Lake of the Ozarks State Park near LinMissn Creek. Ozark Caverns, which is owned and operated by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, is the most rustic show cave in the Lake area. Its claim to fame is a large, impressive "Angel Shower," one of only 14 in the world and the only one in the U.S. available for public viewing.
An angel shower is an unusual cave phenomenon!made up of a "bathtub" formation beneath a never-ending shower of water that seems to come out of a solid rock ceiling.! Along the half-mile round trip through this cave, explorers/visitors will see evidence of early spelunkers, claw marks in the sediment fills left by animals that sought shelter in the cave thousands of years ago, and other natural cave formations. Tours of Ozark Caverns are offered seasonally, from mid-May through midSeptember. Complete details for Ozark Caverns, its tour schedule and admissions prices, can be found by going to TinyURL.com/OzarkCaverns. The lake's unique show caves are all within 30 miles of one another, making it easy to experience them all over a weekend stay. For all the lodging options available at the Lake, including full-service resorts and family-owned resorts, condominiums and vacation homes, bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and campgrounds and RV parks click on the "Places to Stay" tab at www.FunLake. com.
AROUND the WORLD with the River Hills Traveler
Jacob’s Cave.
Along the mile-long tour through Jacob's Cave, tourists will see many different formations including massive columns and stalactites, millions of "soda straws," delicate helictites and more. This cave is the only walk-through cave in Missouri that is completely accessible to people with disabilities. Tours are offered year-around. To learn more about Jacob's Cave, including additional background information and tour prices, visit www.JacobsCave.com. Hand-held lantern tours are offered
Joe and Mary Schilly, of Ste. Genevieve, Mo., were spending the winter in Florida when the Traveler arrived by mail. "We've been Traveler subscribers for many years," said Mary. This photo was taken at Palm Beach with the Atlantic Ocean in the background. ———
If you're going on a trip or vacation, please take the River Hills Traveler with you and have someone photograph you and the magazine in front of a landmark or somewhere pretty neat. Then email the picture & info to us at jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com and we will publish it an upcoming issue. You can also text your photos & info to (417) 451-3798 or send them to us via our Facebook page.
Thank you very much and we look forward to seeing your family’s adventures!
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RiverHillsTraveler.com
Pulaski County enhances Route 66 brochure
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ver since I was a child I've loved collecting brochures from the places I visit in Missouri. Branson, Cape, Eminence, St. Louis... you name it, I've probably got it. As I got older I began filing them according to region and type of activity, and now I've got a treasure trove of wonderful places to visit and things to do in our beautiful state. Look for some of these stories in upcoming issues of the Traveler. I still collect brochures and I've got a Walmart bag Jimmy Sexton full of them that's ———— waiting on me to Journey On carefully file them away after I get off deadline with our April issue. One that I'm anxious to pick up is a new expanded Route 66 driving tour brochure put out by the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau. According to the tourism bureau's press release they sent me the other day, the free guide, first offered in 2001, now includes 66-plus points of interest, 10 detour-worthy side trips, and seven roadie-inspired tips to enhance your Route 66 experience in Pulaski County, Mo. The brochure takes inspiration from Jack D. Rittenhouse’s 1946 "A Guide Book to Highway 66" and is adapted from "Route 66 in Pulaski County, Missouri (a local history)" by noted Route 66 historian and author, Terry Primas. The updated version includes 20-plus vintage Route 66 postcards, almost
triple the prior amount. The images were provided by the John F. Bradbury, Jr. Collection and noted Route 66 author and aficionado, Joe Sonderman. The expansion project was managed by tourism bureau content creator Laura Huffman. Huffman is also a local historian and lifelong Route 66 enthusiast. She says that the guide was produced “by a Route 66 fan for Route 66 fans. It’s a keepsake.” For the first time in the 17-year history of the booklet, it now includes detailed directions to Pulaski County’s abandoned “ghost section” — a short, two-lane 1930’s alignment at the former Morgan Heights community. The brochure also details Waynesville’s significance to Route 66 as the “Birthplace of the Byway.” The turn-by-turn directions guide visitors, travelers, tourists, and roadies to Route 66 alignments that date to the 1920’s, 1930’s & 1940’s. Pulaski County’s boundaries include 33 miles of drivable Mother Road. “The bureau’s expanded Route 66 Driving Tour brochure is being released just as Route 66 fans begin hitting the legendary road to tour, explore, and discover," said Beth Wiles, executive director of the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau. She noted that the complimentary guide also includes driving tours of historic Fort Leonard Wood and of the former Frisco Railroad line through Dixon, Crocker, and Richland. She said the beefed-up pamphlet is an example of Pulaski County’s tourism dollars at work. “The brochure is designed to engage Route 66 travelers with our Route 66 communities, namely Devils Elbow, Saint Robert, Waynesville, Laquey, and
Gascozark.” The updated guide has been submitted to the Route 66 Association of Missouri’s magazine, Show Me Route 66, for inclusion in an upcoming issue. The free turn-by-turn guide can be preordered by contacting the Pulaski County Tourism Bureau at (573) 3366355 or by email at email@pulaskicountyusa.com. It will also be distributed to Pulaski County businesses that cater to travelers along the route. Pulaski County residents can pick up a copy at the Visitors Center at 137 St. Robert Boulevard, Saint Robert. ——— Soon you may see more Mark Twain National Forest (MTNF) and contract employees working in developed and dispersed recreation sites and along forest service roads.! They will be wearing bright orange vests and be near a sign that says “Traffic Survey Ahead." These folks are waiting to talk to you, to find out how you use the national forest — so please pull over for an interview.!It will only take a few minutes. All information you provide for this voluntary survey is confidential.!This is a nationwide, recurring effort the Forest Service undertakes called National Visitor Use Monitoring (NVUM). Surveying will occur at intervals between now and September. NVUM surveys gather basic visitor information and all responses are completely confidential.!In fact, a person’s name is never written anywhere on the survey. The basic interview lasts around 10 minutes.! This survey was conducted nationally five years ago, and forest service officials are now returning to update the information previously gathered and
What in the world was happening in my boat?
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ncle Nick, admittedly no saint, is a deliberate and purposeful man. Not unduly influenced by “haunts” nor “familiars.” Certainly not skittish of aberrations or shying from shadows in dark and isolated places. So, when he recalled to me the following; I was compelled to take note. Like a lot of those of his generation; a good deal of his friends are no longer “on the right side of the grass.” Most of those with whom he grew up gigging are long gone. He assembles Rick Mansfield teams of novices ———— from time to time, Reflections but mostly contents from the Road himself with going alone. He either gigs from the back of the boat, or runs to the top of a hole and gigs while drifting back down. Such was his plan recently the next to last night of this season. Upon arriving at a local gravel bar on the Lower Current, it appeared he had the place to himself. This was of no surprise, as two foes of good gigging were quite present. A sharp wind and a full moon. What fish could be viewed beneath the choppy surface would be more than usually anxious in their behavior. As he
unstrapped his johnboat in preparation to launch; it was then he noticed the stranger at the edge of the wood-line. He had no light nor fire, though the moon had not yet crested the horizon and the temperature had already fallen below freezing. It was difficult to speculate his age, as with many by this time of winter he’d allowed both hair and beard to grow quite long and even by local standards a “mite shaggy!” A dark felt fedora masked a good deal of his upper countenance, while what appeared to be a knit woolen sweater and cotton slacks were all that shielded his slight frame from the cold. Uncle Nick, being a congenial and confident man, invited him to the fire he was preparing; precaution against an unintended mishap in the boat. The light of the fire did little to accentuate any more of the now-welcomed guest’s features. After brief introductions, “Just call me Lon” was more growled than spoken; Nick explained the rudiments of the sport. By the time the pair began to traverse the first hole, the full moon was well up and what wind fractured the plane also helped to magnify the reflections into a silver offering of light. Nick noticed what could almost be described as whimperings coming from the man as he grasped the wooden handle of the gig and stared into the stream. The suddenness of the first stab and
retrieval of a large yellow sucker took Nick somewhat by surprise; but not nearly as much as did the tearing of the fish from the metal prongs and the instant swallowing of the two-pounds of flesh, bones and scales. This performance was repeated numerous times in the next few minutes; never a miss — seldom much chewing. It was after several minutes that Nick then noticed the stranger had become increasingly hunched over; with the last couple of fish harvested while Lon was basically on all fours. Nick continued to run the boat upstream; and when coming to a thin shoal, the stranger turned momentarily and glanced at Nick with now yellow eyes. Then, in a flash, exited the boat in the now shallow water and ran off into the brush; all the while using all four extremities to propel himself. Uncle Nick told me all this while reloading some of his .357 cartridges with silver bullets. (Rick Mansfield is a seasoned storyteller and writer, and is always looking for new audiences. He can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)
On the Cover Bridal Cave, located near Camdenton, was formed about 42-46 million years ago and features massive columns and large draperies.
(photo courtesy www.funlake.com)
look for recreation trends over time.! The results are going to be pretty fascinating to read, I can't wait. The data will provide the national forest managers with an estimate of how many people actually recreate on federal lands, what activities they engage in while there, and how satisfied they are with their visit.! The information is essential for forest planning, and can be useful for local community tourism planning, as well.! Information collected in this national study will be used in local forest planning, at the state planning level, and even by Congress.! The more they know about the visitors, especially their satisfaction and desires, the better managers can provide for their needs.! Although the survey is entirely voluntary, the Forest Service would appreciate it if visitors would pull up and answer a few questions. It’s important for them to talk with local people using the forest as well as folks from out of the area, so all types of visitors are represented in the study.! ——— If you have a story idea, or something particular you would like more information about, please give my office a call or send an email and we will see what we can do. Thanks for reading the Traveler, have a great spring! (Jimmy Sexton is owner and publisher of the River Hills Traveler. He can be reached at (800) 874-8423, ext. 1, or jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com.)
River Hills Traveler 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850 Phone & Fax: 800-874-8423
www.riverhillstraveler.com Email: jimmy@riverhillstraveler. com Owner & Publisher Jimmy Sexton Managing Editor Madeleine Link Circulation Manager Amanda Harvel Staff Writers Wes Franklin • Mike Roux Bill Wakefield • Bill Oder Tom Boydston • Judy Smith Michelle Turner • Dana Sturgeon Chuck Smick • Ryan Walker Richard Whiteside • Roger Smith Advertising All of us
River Hills Traveler, established in 1973, is published monthly by Sexton Media Group and Traveler Publishing Company at 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Postmaster: Send change of address notices to: River Hills Traveler, 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Subscription prices: $22 per year; 2 years, $40. Back issues available up to one year from publication, $5 plus sales tax & shipping. COPYRIGHT © 2018 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher of the River Hills Traveler or his duly appointed agent. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial submission for any reason.
April 2018 • Page 5
RiverHillsTraveler.com
VINTAGE OZARKS: Reeds Spring, real photo postcard, 1930s
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ou could drink a Coke, gas up and shop a splendid selection of Ozark drip pottery and cedar novelties in a short stop in Reeds Spring.!Many of the cedar boxes were made locally under small factory conditions and had decals evoking Shepherd of the Hills Country. At the time these roadside attractions were disparaged, but today many of the items they sold are high-priced collectibles. More recently foreign-manufactured items compete with locally made tourist items. (This feature is courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Their new book, James Fork of the White, was published in 2017. Some pages from this book can be seen on www.beautifulozarks.com. Their earlier river book, Damming the Osage, can be at seen www.damming theosage.com)
5 years ago • The forecast called for very cool weather for the weekend. There was still a bit of snow on the ground and I decided to do a little hiking. I've driven through Robertsville State Park a few times over the years to use the boat ramp to the Meramec River, but I had never really checked the place out. Located in Franklin County, Robertsville State Park is just over 1,200 acres and is almost a perfect square in configuration. It is boarded by the Meramec River on two sides, Calvary Creek on the third side, and the south side of the park abuts train tracks and then Highway O. (Howard Helgenberg) • "I experienced a snow goose hunt of a lifetime," Chad Everett, of Lebanon, Ohio, began. "I have never seen as many snow geese as I saw in southeast Missouri recently." Everett and two of his Ohio hunting buddies, Chad Dwire and Jim Griffin, traveled 9 hours to hook up with Perry May, owner and operator of IYF Outfitters of Dexter. I joined the goose hunting trio for two days of their three-day hunt. (Bill Cooper) 10 years ago • April is the first full month of spring. Temperatures are bearable, the air is fresh, and the temptation to get out of doors and go somewhere becomes unbearable. Try some outdoor adventures right here in southeast Missouri. The Jacks Fork River, Wappepello Lake, and Duck Creek Conservation Area are just some
REMEMBER WHEN
of the outdoors adventures you can do right here in Missouri. (Bill Cooper) • Al Agnew is as precise and detailminded in his quest for smallmouth as he is in creating his artwork. The Ste. Genevieve area artist shared some of his bronzeback-catching techniques with a full house at the Missouri Smallmouth Alliance's annual banquet March 8 in Arnold, Mo. (Emery Styron) 15 years ago • My dad may have been from the Adirondack Mountains in New York State, but he sure knows some fine old southern expressions. "Dry as a popcorn (word for expelling gas that starts with an "f")," he used to say about drought conditions. And that's the way it was one spring as turkey season approached. Dry and hot and very windy, very much like the olf man's description. (Bob Todd) • "I haven't seen this many fish all winter," Roy Halbert said, as we starting going up the slope of a "hump" in Clearwater Lake. We were looking for crappie, and finding shad could be the key. As we moved from 18-20 feet in the old river channel to the shallower hump beneath the water, the depth finder showed school after school of shad. (Bob Todd)
20 years ago • I cocked my head downriver toward the faint sounds that echoed from atop a dogwood-studded ridge. "Ah, there he goes again," I muttered to myself. My paddle whispered and the canoe slid silently downstream, closer to the haunt of the old river gobbler. The gobbler sounded off again, some 800 yards downstream and across the river. I had heard the first faint gobble as I rounded a bend in the river. The unmistakable sound of the wild turkey gobbler was muffled by the gurgling riffle I had just negotiated, yet was echoed by the hollow created by the steep ridges on either side of the river where the gobbler was roosted. (Bill Cooper) • You know how it is. Usually, you hear a gobbler and you call. He answers. Excitement begins to build! But those other times... he's so close you can practically see him. His gobble shakes the ground around you. Yet when you call, he ignores you. He gobbles again, and you know he doesn't have a hen with him, but he's acting as if you aren't there. Oh, yeah, he'd like to speak to a lady, but somehow it is as if he's in one world and you are in another. You feel like an absolute wallflower. (Bob Todd) 30 years ago • It is a fact that gobblers never gobble before the whippoorwills stop calling in the morning. That fact is almost true. It is all the way true when it comes to the descendants of Ol' Craz, that strange
gobbler that lived on the mountain back of the house here at Over the Hill Farm. Craz was the turkey that answered to almost any kind of noise, but always went directly away form the sound instead of to it. (Bob Todd) • "Yelp, yelp, yelp. Gobble-gobblegobble-obbleeee!" My very first love notes on a real turkey hunt brought a lusty response from a gobbler. Beginner's luck perhaps, but my heart was racing in my throat. Clucks and yelps were the extent of my turkey talk vocabulary. (Bill Cooper) 40 years ago • One of the joys of spring for people who like to canoe is the chance to float waters that in the summer are often too low to be floated without considerable difficulty. And among the appealing spring-time streams are those that run east toward the Mississippi River instead of south. One such stream that just gets a head of steam up before entering the Mississippi River Valley, is Saline Creek in Perry County. In size, it might be compared to the far, upper reaches of the branches of the Black River. (Bob Todd) • My vhildren have been responsible for teaching me many things. I would never have known the "Top 20" if it had not been for their ears glued to radios that can be heard for ten miles in any direction. The lowly "french fry" potato could have easily been absent from my culinary list of favorites. New math has been a ball. (Jack Leiweke) (compiled by MyraGale Sexton)
— Share your camping, fishing, kayaking, hunting, outdoors & travel photos with Traveler readers by texting them to (417) 451-3798 —