Designed
By DE - FECT
“We are at a time when everything will be reconsidered. In fact this is one of the most exciting times in design. No longer are we limited to just designing in one area, as we will now start to see, the power of ideas will come from the convergence of skills and knowledge. There is so much to take on board that ultimately affect the way we all think, process and create, but great design can flourish in these complex times. The centre for sustainable fashion will be at the forefront of this movement� Zowie Broach & Brian Kirkby Designers in Residence London College of Fashion
Content Smart Second Skin
taking a look at the fashion technology world where by clothes are not just pleasing on the eye, but they smell good too !
LAERKE hOOGE aNDERSEN
INTRODUCING A UPCOMING DESIGN WHO’S DESIGNS HAVE GOT US QUESTIONING THE FUTURE OF FASHION
Bio Couture
Can we grow our own clothes ?
The Fashion Lab
Britain’s first sustainable fashion lab, another step towards sustainability
Fashion Technologies
Possible future fashions that utilizes technology
Not Just A Label
Introducing njal and Michael Kemps
Lucy and Bart
Showcasing there manipulated vision of possible materials and silhouettes for the future
Designed by defect
“Clothes could also ‘sniff’ at a crime scene by capturing the criminals body odour lingering in the air and later store it in a smell bank. This could eventually replace ‘finger prints’.”
SMART SECOND SKIN
Jenny Tilloston is a senior researcher at in the innovation centre at Central Saint Martins , her interest lies in the sensory, aroma and medical field and past work has explored the relationship between aromas and health, and how this could be incorporated though fashion and textiles with the use of nano technology, Which she calls Scentory Designs. Her projects include smart second skin which give clothes a new purpose other than just to wear.
The Science Fashion LabŽ NanoMedicine Could future fashions have medical benefit? With nano technology could garments provide the user with a dosage of needed medication? Scentory designs have explored this possibility and with their smart second skin clothing collection, have provided a possibility that garments could potentially replace ventalin inhalers, which would benefit asthma sufferers. “The clothes would detect if you were having an attack and release the medication from the micro tubes around your collar towards your mouth.� Other suggested medical advantages have been, undergarments that can detect ovulation which could increase the chances of pregnancy for couples trying for a baby. Is it possible that this kind of technology could sense early signs of cancer and other life threatening diseases? Therefore saving lives ?
Can your clothes really attract a partner ? Smart second skin researchers explore how all senses can be effected by the clothes we wear, in particular our sense of smell. Their work with pheromones has got us asking: Could the clothes we wear actually attract members of the opposite sex? Pheromones are found naturally in our skin and give off a ‘musky’ smell when we are sexually aroused. What they are proposing is that, with this technology, intimate experiences could be enhanced by sensors weaved into garments, which could pick up your perfect mate by ‘matching’ the pheromones they give off to yours!
The power of scent Other scent related projects to come from the science lab include baby blankets that could hold the mothers scent to calm an infant and clothes that offer aroma therapeutic massages. This kind of therapy is already used for keeping animals calm, collars are available which emit a scent to calm stressed dogs. Not only could our clothes benefit the wearer but the clothes could store data being able to ‘remember’ smells and odours , this technology could be used for solving crimes. According to research everyone has there own body odour. Being able to identify an individual by their scent is actually more accurate than figure prints ! “The criminals body odour lingering in the air and later store it in a smell bank. This could eventually replace ‘fingerprints.” This innotive way of combining technology and textiles could give our garments another purpose other than to dress us .
Introducing Laerke Hooge Andersen who recently graduated from central st martins. Her project ‘the synthetic kingdom’ won her awards for her innotive way of viewing textiles and materials. She explores– the possibilities of new materials which are future specific in fashion. She approaches this by exploring technologies such as synthetic biology, biotech and sustainability. With work displayed regularly at exhibition we think she is defiantly someone to watch check out her website www.laerkehoogeandersen.com
Bark fur
The Synthetic KINGDOM “The year is 2075, and Bio synthetic organisms have started to morph with the natural kingdom, even though man has tried to control these new forces of synthetic nature, we still do not fully understand the concept of control or boundaries and it will naturally evolve on it’s oven accord. Thus putting into motion what could be categorized as the foundation for mutation and evolution in every natural aspect. This allows one to imagine a future where natural hybrid’s evolve, combining man-made synthetics with natural organic materials. These hybrids grow and produce entire new ‘natural’ materials, such as over dimensioned structures and textures that have extraordinary tactile qualities, for example, combining animal fur with the bark of a tree. The Synthetic KIngdom is aimed towards an evolutionary quest to discover the next new materials by ‘collecting’ these super natural specimens and making them into wearable’s that feed on the collected specimens’ unique characteristics. These characteristics were then magnified, manipulated and overstated, thereby mixing the natural kingdom of today, with the more unknown, but rapidly emerging field of synthetic biology. Providing design-engineered solutions to everyday materials and even combining the materials between species and organic substances.” Text taken from Larke Hooge Andersens book ‘the synthetic kingdom’
“Exaggerate hair growth could be the next Clothing.”
“This particular Bark fur is a skin flora that grows from its hosting body. Functioning as protection against pollution and high temperatures from reacing the inderlayer of the body.�
“Body hair is growing in pattern formations, developed over generations. Serving as an urban landscape camouflage.�
Suzanne Lee is a London based fashion designer who foresees the future of fashion as something that’s grown from bacteria, as disgusting as it sound the results are beautiful.
Suzanne lee founded the idea for Bio couture back in 2003, while writing her book ‘Fashioning the future: tomorrows wardrobe’ which gives an insightful and comprehensive look into up to date Wearable Electronic and Textile technology innovation. Biocouture is concerned with combatting ecological and sustainability issues surrounding fashion by experimenting with a new approach to textile manufacturing......Growing it . A mixture, which is primarily green tea, sugar, and a number of micro organisms is used to create the ‘vegetable leather’ like material, When you combine the materials together they form a static culture, as the fabric dries it compresses, once dry it can be used conventonally by being cut out and sewn together from a pattern, or fashioned around a 3D object and as it evaporates, it will weave itself together creating seams. There are great economic benefits to this process, microbes are really efficient, Suzanne is able to only grow the amount of ‘fabric’ she needs and if there is waist it will fully biodegrade in a compost heap! So what does this mean for the future, can we grow Consumable products ? Currently biocouture is working with a team of scientist to try and engineer the microbes to consist of all the qualities needed within a fabric as the fabric is not yet water resistant.
“.... This garment in fact is biodegrading in front of you eyes, its absorbing my sweat and feeding on it’ -Suzanne lee ted presentation.
However this research gives a platform, to explore further into the use of biology in fashion and textiles, although this process may not be suitable for fashion, its projecting the importance of moving towards a more sustainable future. With raw materials decreasing and more concern for the economy, designers should see this as new found inspiration For their products pushing the boundaries between fashion and science because who know what we may discover.
GROW YOUR OWN BAG HERES A RUN THROUGH OF HOW SUZANNE MAKE A PIECE AFTER THE FABRIC HAS BEEN BREWED!
Finished modular MDF mould
Studs marking pattern for hammering and internal view.
A few days later showing beginnings of oxidation.
Sides showing edge overlaps.
Wet material first applied to wooden form.
Wet material on mould after application of handles
Other side showing circular ‘plasters’ : wet rounds of cellulose used to patch holes in the wet sheet, these bond to the main material with evaporation - kind of self-repairing.
Suzanne’s take on the classic denim jacket .for this piece the economic benefits don’t just stop at the construction. With a normal cotton fabric to achieve a colour this dark it can take up to 8 dips in dye. This denim jacket only requires one !.
Iron oxidation and vegetable staining are also used to dye the fabric.
This garment was wrapped over a 3D object to create it shape and surface design. This method can be used instead of the conventional way of cutting and sewing.
The Fashion Lab Big names, bigger ideas, M&S collaborate with London college of fashion in a quest to create a more sustainable fashion industry.
“tainable The newly formed Centre for SusFashion provides cutting
edge work of the highest quality across elements of research, teaching and enterprise. The building of an industry that can flourish, communicating positive change throughout supply chains and beyond, impacts radically on the societal and economic triggers that fashion is able to I
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fluence.
Shwapping M&S is teaming up with the centre for sustainable fashion at LCF and oxfam to create the uks first sustainable fashion lab. The project will collaborate an array of designers, stylists and researchers who will ultimately explore the possibilities of creating a more sustainable industry for the future. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen marks and spencers join forces with oxfam . in 2008 they collaborated with oxfam when they offered a £5 voucher when M&s goods where donated to oxfam. Since the Clothes Exchange started in January 2008, it’s helped prevent over 2,500 tonnes of clothing going to landfill, selling the M&S goods has raised an extra £3 million for their work . “shwapping’ is the innotive term they use for the event, as all you need as entre is an old piece of clothing. What will undergo assessment to see if it has potential use to be transformed in the lab or donated to oxfam to either be resold or recycled. The project will give visitors a behind-the-scenes look into the world of 21st Century fashion and give opportunities to witness the pioneers of environmentally friendly fashion at work. Eco-conscious visitors will even be able to try their hand at designing and creating their own items through expert-led master classes.
Feeling inspired ? if your a student or live in a shared accommodation why not have a communal clothes bin, any clothes unwanted or just need a night out on the town can be put in the bin for other people to be able to wear, after all sharing is caring !
Fashion And Technology In recent years the means to incorporate fashion and textiles with technology has risen, with this whole businesses have set out in helping designers move forward with their garments that utilize fashion. V2- the institute for the unstable media is a centre for art and media technology base in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. The companies main interest is art, which embodies media and experimenting with new ideas “The instability is the creative force’ The company help artist collaborate their ideas with technology.
This picture shows the work of Share Wear, which with the help of V2- constructed two electronic dresses, which when slotted together they join a circuit which activate the lamps. This may never be a consumable product could we see this trend in other future product ? would this work on a sofa ?
Intimacy, which was created by Studio Roosegaarde and V2- Lab, is a project that utilizes wearable technology exploring the relationship between technology and intimate moments. The collection consists of two high-tech dresses (Intimacy White and Intimacy Black) made of wireless interactive technologies and smart foils that turn transparent when electrified. Daan Roosegaarde’s “e-fashion” functions as a second skin that transforms the wearer’s body into an interface. Fashion designer Maartje Dijkstra designed the first prototype dress, Intimacy White, made with white e-foil. Anouk Wipprecht designed the second dress, Intimacy Black, which uses an upgraded e-foil that turns from black to transparent. Intimacy is a series of fashion pieces that will we hope will continue toexplore and develop its ideas.
More future fashion technologies
This picture shows a pair of shoes created by a 3 D printer, could this kind of development impact how consumers reach products, already in a time of internet obsession could the future hold the prospects of being able to download and print our garments straight from our computers ?
Your normal day to day hold all bag ? nope, this bag designed by RICHARD NICOLL and VODAFONE is capable of charging your mobile phone, maybe not so surprisingly!!!! However all of you nomophobiacs your telephone problems may not be solved here in order for the bag to work it firstly needs to be charged at a power mains, if you already struggle to remember to charge your phone, will be plugging your bag in be at the forefront of your minds
MICHAEL KAMPE
Not just a label was started in 2008 to project new life into fashion. “NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL) is the world’s leading designer platform for showcasing and nurturing today’s pioneers in contemporary fashion.” Its purpose is to find what they refer to as the ‘black sheep’ of the fashion industry weather the designs are technology based or innovate in anyway that worthwhile the website helps the designer get a platform in the fashion industry .their intent is to support designers who think out of the box and sought to accomplish a change in fashion they do this by helping create exposure though their online shop and also give financial aid.
EXPLODED
“The philosophy behind my label is to show new directions in urban and denim wear — far from mass-market production, focused on an individual, single piece” -Michael Kampe
VIEW
“The philosophy behind my label is to show new directions in urban and denim wear — far from mass-market production, focused on an individual, single piece” Michael Kampes is creative manager for denim at the Amsterdam based label Scotch and Soda, but also has designed a collection ‘exploded view’ under his own name which is breathtaking. Apart from exciting print designs and architectural shapes its also fashion forward with sustainability in mind. “The only way to offer an unique garment to the customer Is to develop hand-made and hand-treated products.” Not only are the garments completely handmade, each pieces in reconstructed completely from existing pieces such as trench coats, fitted jackets and used denim, also with a hand signed identification code proving its unique. The collection was inspired by deconstruction with blueprints and view drawing from engineers being the fore front of inspiration. Although the pieces are expensive , keeping the future in mind we should see garments as investment which we intend to use forever and step away from the ‘throw away’ culture we currently live in.
LUCY AND BART “An instinctual stalking of fashion, architecture, performance and the body.”
:: Dripping colour ::
:: Neanderthal ::
:: Germination Day One ::
:: Germination Day Eight ::
:: Grow on you #2 ::
:: Spring ::
:: Exploded View Part Two ::
:: Evolution ::
:: Grow on you ::
:: Exploded View ::
Designed by Defect
Exploring decay from a scientific perspective looking closely into cells and bacteria and microscopic images, designed by defect created textiles made out of off cuts of fabric, plastic sweet wrappers, bonder web which is painted on and then transferred to develop an array of textiles, which may at first not be extremely pleasing to the eye, but once photographed under a macro lensed camera the results are beautiful.
www.designedbydefect.blogspot.co.uk