Heritage Hotels and Resorts, Winter/Spring 2018

Page 1

COLONIAL CONTEMPORARY STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

|

THE LORETTO CHAPEL MYSTERY

HERITAGE WINTER/SPRING 2018

HOTELS & RESORTS MAGAZINE

HOTEL CHACO’S

INSPIRATION

EXPLORE

NEW MEXICO

MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, AND WILDLIFE

PILGRIMAGE TO CHIMAYÓ


J OU R NEY F R FROM B ECO MING TH E PE R SO N W H O TE LLS OT H ER PEOPLE’ S STO R IES. At Hotel Chaco, you’ll cross paths with the soul of an ancient civilization while unwinding in modern luxury and discover so much more than a mere change of scenery.

A Her itage Hotel s & Res o rts p ro p erty

2 0 0 0 B e l l a m a h Ave N W phone 505 246 998 9

Alb uque rque WE B hotelc hac o.c o m

NM


Welcome HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS MAGAZINE

WINTER/SPRING 2018 Published by Heritage Hotels & Resorts, Inc. 201 Third St. NW, Ste. 1140 Albuquerque, New Mexico 87102 Phone: 505-836-6700

Dear Guest: As a proud 12th generation New Mexican and founder of Hotels & Resorts, Inc., it is my privilege to welcome you to the

contactus@hhandr.com

Land of Enchantment, and to help you

hhandr.com

discover the unique beauty and mystery of our state. We are certain you will

Publisher/CEO

JIM LONG

leave with experiences that will enrich your life long after your visit. Our noble purpose at Heritage Hotel

Heritage Hotels Publication Editor

MOLLY RYCKMAN

& Resorts is to showcase and preserve New Mexico’s rich multicultural legacy for future generations. By collaborating

Heritage Hotels Publication Art Director

SARAH FRIEDLAND Heritage Photography

JEFF CAVEN

Editorial, Production & Design by: e-squarededit.com Project Editor

EMILY ESTERSON Art Director GLENNA STOCKS Contributing Writers

with historians, writers, artists, entertainers, designers, agricultural producers and other creative talents, we are able to create unique properties and provide

of your room stay is donated to our

our hotel guests with an experience

cultural partners to help ensure that

unlike any other.

New Mexico’s cultural legacy is preserved

In the last year, our company added Hotel Chaco and Inn and Spa at Loretto to our group of exceptional properties.

and advanced, you are truly making a difference. We hope you enjoy your stay with us

We invite you to explore our state’s rich

and thank you for choosing to stay at a

cultural corridor from Las Cruces to

Heritage hotel.

Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos.

Bienvenidos/Welcome

When you choose to stay at a Heritage Hotel you are greatly contributing to this noble purpose. Since a portion

Jim Long Founder/CEO Heritage Hotels & Resorts, Inc.

ASHLEY BIGGERS KELLY KOEPKE STEVE LARESE HHANDR.COM

1


24 ADVENTURES IN DIVERSE LANDSCAPES There are endless options for those wishing to get outside in New Mexico.

Features 32 38

SACRED WALK, SACRED PLACE by Steve Larese

44

AT THE ROOTS by Nicolasa Chavez

Pilgrims flock to the Santuario de Chimayรณ

Chile, chocolate and wine have long histories

during Easter week.

in North America.

CONTEMPORARY ANTIQUITY Colonial antiques mix with hard-edge contemporary style in a unique environment.

50

FULL IMMERSION by Kelly Koepke Renowned chef Mark Miller studies culinary traditions and mentors Heritage chefs.

2

WINTER/SPRING 2018


9

Also in This Issue

1 WELCOME

Owner Jim Long shares Heritage Hotels & Resorts’ guiding principles.

4 WONDERS OF THE WORLD, IN NEW MEXICO By Alissa Kinney Moe

Three UNESCO World Heritage Sites call the state home.

9 CHACO UNEARTHED Chaco Canyon provides the inspiration

for a downtown Albuquerque hotel.

12 BREATHE, STRETCH, RELAX

Soothing treatments and yoga classes

provide a respite for Heritage guests.

16 THE MYSTERY OF LORETTO CHAPEL By Kelly Koepke A Santa Fe landmark has a compelling— and mysterious—history.

4

21 WEDDING BLISS

Heritage Hotels & Resorts offers non-denominational chapels for all kinds of ceremonies.

54 LIFE AFTER DUSK By Susan Moore Heritage Hotels & Resorts offers atmosphere, craft cocktails and entertainment after dark.

58 NEW LIFE FOR AN OLD SAWMILL By Ashley Biggers An industrial building transforms into a one-of-a-kind shopping adventure.

60 CULTURALLY DISTINCT NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS Plan your next New Mexico trip—explore our

54

restaurants and hotels. HHANDR.COM

3


Wonders of the World, in New Mexico Significant cultural and natural history is only a day trip away. By Alissa Kinney Moe

A

ROAD TRIP THROUGH NEW MEXICO can bring visitors face-to-face with ancient ruins, one of the oldest continually inhabited villages in the United States, and a geologic marvel. Indeed, significant cultural and natural history is only a day trip away. The state’s Chaco Canyon, Taos Pueblo and Carlsbad Caverns are globally recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites. What, exactly, is a World Heritage site? According to UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Sci-

4

WINTER/SPRING 2018

entific, and Cultural Organization), it is a place “of outstanding universal value” that “meets at least one out of ten selection criteria.” Among those criteria: to “represent a masterpiece of human creative genius,” “be outstanding examples representing major stages of earth’s history,” “contain superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty or aesthetic importance,” or “bear a unique or at least exceptional testimony to a cultural tradition or to a civilization which is living or which has disappeared.” Clearly, these are high standards for


any historic or cultural site; yet, perhaps unsurprisingly, New Mexico contains three, the most of any state in the U.S. (there are only 23 UNESCO World Heritage sites total scattered throughout the country).

Top left: Chaco Canyon’s Kin Kletso is a massive ruin, featuring 65 rooms and five ceremonial kivas. Right: A view of the park’s ruins from the top of the mesa. Left, the windows of Pueblo Bonito.

CHACO CULTURE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK First up on our local UNESCO tour is Chaco Culture National Historical Park, located in the remote northwestern corner of the state. This extensive, breathtaking complex of ruins was a key destination for the pre-Columbian Chacoan peoples of the region. The complex was used for ceremonial, trade, and political purposes. Even in the unforgiving desert environment, the walls, multi-story buildings, and kivas—constructed of sandstone, mud mortar, and pine beams—have remained beautifully preserved over the centuries. The hallmarks of this site are the remote location, extraordinary craftsmanship, and clear dominance of the HHANDR.COM

5


Chacoan culture, which reached its height about 1020–1110 CE. When architects were designing Hotel Chaco in Albuquerque, they visited the site and modeled the building after the structures at Chaco Canyon (see related story, page 9).

NPS PETER JONES

Taos Pueblo is one of the oldest continuously inhabited villages in the United States. Right, Carlsbad Caverns contains cave pools like this one in Left Hand Tunnel.

CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK TAOS PUEBLO A stunning historical site set against the Taos Mountains in the north-central part of the state and marked by a stream that flows from the sacred Blue Lake (critically important to Taos culture), Taos Pueblo consists of adobe buildings, kivas, the San Geronimo catholic church (Geronimo is the pueblo’s patron saint), and the ruins of a previous church and pueblo. Built in the late 13th to early 14th centuries, the pueblo has been continuously inhabited ever since. Residents practice both their indigenous religion and Catholicism, and they are known for fiercely protecting their privacy, despite the fame of their community and the large numbers of resulting tourists. Running water and electricity are not allowed within the pueblo’s historic walled village, though an increasing number of residents now maintain homes outside the walls.

In the Chihuahuan Desert in southern New Mexico lies over 100 limestone caves. Carlsbad Caverns National Park is recognized for both its natural beauty and its ongoing geologic processes, leading to the creation of new speleothems, or decorative rock formations. Carlsbad Caverns is among the best preserved and easily accessible cave sites in the world. The park continues to act as a key location for the scientific study of various geologic specimens and formations, such as the stunning gypsum chandeliers that can grow to over 18 feet. Carlsbad Caverns is also the site of the Big Room, which measures approximately 4,000 feet long and 255 feet high. And if you’re curious about the cave’s wildlife, park rangers provide evening talks about the daily flight of the hundreds of thousands of bats that call Carlsbad home in the summer months.


HOTEL ALBUQUERQUE AT OLD TOWN HOTEL CHACO INN AND SPA AT LORETTO ELDORADO HOTEL & SPA HOTEL ST. FRANCIS HOTEL CHIMAYO DE SANTA FE HOTEL ENCANTO DE LAS CRUCES EL MONTE SAGRADO PALACIO DE MARQUESA

HHANDR.COM

Enjoy inspired design, wondrous heritage, friendly people and authentic environments


Heritage Experiences A GUIDE FOR THE NEXT LEVEL OF NEW MEXICO TRAVEL

Santa Fe Christmas

Celebrate the Holidays in Santa Fe Surround yourself with the traditions of Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico as you make

Robert Mirabal

the iconic Inn and Spa at Loretto your home

guests. Enjoy an intimate setting by the

for the holidays. Witness celebration dances

fireplace at the romantic historic hacienda

at one of the many pueblos within an hour’s

Palacio de Marquesa. Packaging includes

drive of Santa Fe, with transportation includ-

a two-night stay for 8 couples, gourmet

ed. As dusk settles on Christmas Eve, stroll

dinner, and breakfast each morning starting

along Canyon Road as hundreds of farolitos

at $6,000.

are lit, illuminating this famous promenade of art galleries. This five-night holiday pack-

Chaco Tour Stay two nights at Hotel Chaco,

age includes our gourmet Christmas Eve

the new Gensler-designed luxury hotel in Al-

dinner at Luminaria Restaurant & Patio and

buquerque, and take a day trip to its inspira-

Christmas Day dinner at Eldorado Hotel & Spa. Starting at $3,000. The Spaceport Adventure Stay two nights in the lap of luxury in the new astronaut suites at Hotel Encanto. Enjoy private pool side dining or just relax by the resort style pool while in Las Cruces. Let us take you to Spaceport America in a premium vehicle and provide a private VIP tour. Package for four guests with two rooms starting at $2,000. Spaceport America, New Mexico

tion: The UNESCO World Heritage Site ChaEl Monte Sagrado Wedding of a Lifetime

co Canyon. This package includes a private

Plan an unforgettable celebration with a ro-

tour of what’s called the “Machu Pichu of

mantic wedding and reception package plus

North America” led by guide extraordinaire

extra arrangements including personalized

Angelisa Espinoza, of Heritage Inspirations.

menus, private dining, music, and couple’s

Transportation, lunch, and a gourmet dinner

spa with beauty treatments exclusively

at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and lounge

managed by the resort’s Living Spa. You can

are included starting at $1500.

choose between a ballroom reception with a four-course dinner or outdoor ceremony

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT

followed by cocktails in the sacred circle.

HHANDR.COM/HERITAGEEXPERIENCES

An "ultimate takeover" package is offered

OR CALL 505-212-9138.

allowing guests to exclusively use the hotel's 84 rooms and suites for two nights starting at $100,000. Storytelling with Robert Mirabal Taos comes alive through the rich storytelling and the musical mastery of two-time Grammy award winner Robert Mirabal during a private performance and dinner for sixteen


Hotel Chaco in Old Town Albuquerque

Chaco Unearthed Hotel Chaco whispers with ancient history.

S

ET DEEP IN THE DESERT of northwestern New Mexico, Chaco Canyon was the center of the Anasazi world. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a place of mystery that echoes with ancient ritual (see related story, page 4). In Albuquerque, Hotel Chaco’s design was inspired by what we know about the Chacoan people and their lifestyle. The great structures of Chaco are notable for their alignment to the cardinal directions, solar and lunar cycles, and each other. The Hotel Chaco architects also achieved this alignment in the design of the new hotel. “There are subtleties we wanted to borrow,” says Jason Cosyleon, vice president of design and development for Heritage Hotels & Resorts. “This culture studied

the cosmos and created order out of a seemingly random world.” Architects from the world-renowned Gensler, the firm which designed the Shanghai Tower (China’s tallest building), among other prominent structures, sought to give form to the vision of Heritage Hotels & Resorts CEO Jim Long to honor one of the most significant civilizations in North America. The goal was not to replicate Chaco but to reflect it in a way that offers a new direction for Southwest architecture. They spent many hours photographing and sketching, letting Chaco’s inspiration set in, architect Adam Gumowski recalls. “We spent time hiking through the land and really understanding the spirit of what can be found there.” The Gensler architects drew inspiration from HHANDR.COM

9


Above, each room is decorated with Native American art. Right (top) the circular lobby is reminiscent of a kiva. The interior walls mimic Chaco’s stone construction.

Chaco as part of a larger goal to evolve Southwestern archetypes and define new ways of inhabiting space. Cantilevers, either built in stone or etched in the side of a cliff, are echoed throughout the hotel, including one that juts from the guest rooms to shelter the secondstory spa terrace, allowing guests to feel protected and at one with their surroundings. A new architectural style, now called Pueblo Modern, emerged in the design of Hotel Chaco. Kris Lajeskie, founder of Kris Lajeskie Design, has long had a deep interest in Chacoan culture. That, coupled with her expertise in designing experiential cultural hotels, drove the conceptualization of Hotel Chaco. “Our job is to edit and focus on what the essence is,” she says, “and the essence of Chaco is simplicity.” Translating ancient inspirations into contemporary aesthetics is “always the trick,” she says. “Chaco is one of those places where spirit is as present today as it was 1,200 years ago.” Lajeskie drew from traditional Navajo weavings for the interior’s hues. Weavers from the Toadlena/ Two Grey Hills area are famous for a distinctive pattern using the natural shades characteristic of the churro sheep that they raise and shear. It took two years for a team of 20 traditional Navajo weavers to create the rugs in Hotel Chaco’s 118 guest rooms. “The artists have been weaving these for hundreds of years,” says Lajeskie. “We’re helping to keep that art alive. It’s a beautiful investment in culture, and we’re bringing it to every guest room.” 10

WINTER/SPRING 2018


F l avo r

&

LVL 5

Beauty

from

the

wilderness

open for breakfast, Lunch and Dinner in Hotel Chaco | 2000 Bellamah Ave NW, Albuquerque | 505 246 9989 | hotelchaco.com


Yoga classes are included for Hotel Chaco guests. Instructor Alexis Waite leads classes that cater to many levels.

Breathe, Stretch, Relax Heritage Hotels Provides Refreshing Relaxation for Many Tastes

T PHOTOS THIS PAGE JORI TURPIN

HE HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS collection of luxurious spas provides an extraordinary experience for today’s traveler. As the hurried holiday season segues into 2018, several spas are releasing treatments to move away from the old and welcome in the new. Speaking of new, an innovative new spa treatment, “The Spirit of Heritage,” will be available at three spas—Spa at Loretto, The Living Spa at El Monte Sagrado and Nidah Spa at the Eldorado Hotel. The ritual-based treatments engage guests' five senses.

12

WINTER/SPRING 2018


December through February, Nidah Spa offers several seasonally inspired rejuvenating treatments. The Brandy Pear Scrub exfoliates with fine-grain sea salt and rice bran oil that leaves skin soft and glistening. Pedicures take a refreshing turn with a fizzing bath followed by a sprightly sugar scrub made with organic vodka and raspberry extract that banishes dry skin and deeply hydrates. Throughout the year, the Turquoise Gemstone Wrap kicks off with a gentle dry brushing followed by a chamomile and marine-body mask (turquoise in color) that fortifies undernourished skin with antioxidant-rich algae and essential oils. Guests are wrapped in several layers of blankets and rest while their scalps and feet are massaged. Finally, therapists utilize sage oil to bring clarity and remove negative energy. At the Inn and Spa at Loretto starting in December, the collection of treatments in the Gratitude Package help guests feel recharged and inspired. The package begins with a soak in rose petals and purifying salts. Next, two massage therapists team up for the Dos Milagros massage (“two miracles�), which soothes away stress and fatigue. The treatment concludes with a half hour of healing energy work to leave guests feeling nurtured.

Relaxing before a treatment at Nidah Spa.

Kiva fireplaces and candles are part of the soothing environment at the Spa at Loretto.

HHANDR.COM

13


The Living Spa at El Monte Sagrado features an array of herb-infused treatments using indigenous, organic plants, flowers and minerals.

For the winter months, the staff at The Living Spa at El Monte Sagrado in Taos recommends a hot towel infusion treatment for the ultimate relaxing and detoxifying experience. Steaming hot towels and therapeutic hot packs infused with essential oils release deeply bound tension and sore muscles from long days on the ski hill. To enter the New Year with balance in the physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual realms, the spa director recommends the Sacred Staurolite treatment that begins with dry brushing for exfoliation. Next comes a detoxifying and rejuvenating turquoise mud wrap. Reflexology balances the chakras while guests take in the healing presence of sacred staurolite stones. Also referred to as “fairy crosses,” these stones are said to release destructive habits and help people attain feelings of safety and security. In Albuquerque, Hotel Chaco’s yoga program also focuses on holistic wellness. “Coming to yoga is a good habit for the mind, body, and spirit. Taking time to focus on yourself, in a meditative, calm state is a very restorative experience,” says instructor Alexis Waite. The morning flow classes welcome all levels; Waite tailors the class to the students who arrive for each session. “My teaching style is more intuitive than fixed,” she says. In that way, it’s more similar to a private session than a yoga studio class. Sessions are held in the fitness center or on the scenic and peaceful grounds­—perfect for restoring your mind and body. 14

WINTER/SPRING 2018

Albuquerque Taos HOTEL CHACO

THE LIVING SPA

Yoga, included for hotel guests,

AT EL MONTE SAGRADO

check for times.

Hot Towel Infusion Treatment,

2000 Bellamah Ave. NW,

75 minutes for $165;

505-246-9989,

Sacred Staurolite, 90 minutes for

HotelChaco.com

$205 or 120 minutes for $265

Santa Fe NIDAH SPA AT ELDORADO Brandy Pear Scrub, 25 minutes for $70; Berries & Bubbly Seasonal Signature Pedicure, 50 minutes for $80; Turquoise Gemstone Wrap, 80 minutes for $180 309 W San Francisco St., 505-995-4535, EldoradoHotel.com

THE SPA AT LORETTO Desert Sage Scrub, $85; Gratitude Package, 110 minutes for $375 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-984-7997, HotelLoretto.com

317 Kit Carson Rd., 575-737-9880, ElMonteSagrado.com


This photo, bottom left and right by Emily Joanne Wedding Films & Photography

Weddings by Heritage Hotels & Resorts

Blue Rose Photography Studios

TAOS El Monte Sagrado Living Resort & Spa, Palacio de Marquesa SANTA FE Eldorado Hotel & Spa, Inn and Spa at Loretto, Hotel St. Francis ALBUQUERQUE Hotel Chaco, Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town LAS CRUCES Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces HHandR.com/Weddings

HHANDR.COM

15


THINKSTOCK

The Loretto Chapel’s mysterious staircase seems suspended in space.


The Mystery of Loretto Chapel Is it a builder’s genius or divine intervention?

E

VERYONE LOVES A GOOD STORY. The Gothic-style Loretto Chapel in the heart of downtown Santa Fe is the source of three mysterious tales surrounding its spiral staircase. The staircase seems to hang unsupported, without a center post or other architectural structure holding it in place. First, some history. In 1852, the Catholic Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy, living in Santa Fe, sent out a plea for pilgrims and missionaries to spread the faith through the new territories. Consequently, a handful of nuns from the Sisters of Loretto made the arduous journey, arriving in Santa Fe to establish a girls’ school; the Academy of Our Lady of Loretto opened in 1853. The academy closed in 1968, and the property sold a few years later. Today, Heritage Hotels & Resorts’ Inn and Spa at Loretto is on the site of the old academy. In the 1870s, as the construction of the Cathedral of St. Francis was winding down just a block away, Lamy suggested that the builder, French architect Antoine Mouly, also erect a chapel for the sisters. He modeled it after Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. The Loretto Chapel, completed in 1878, hews to the Gothic Revival style, complete with spires and buttresses. The colorful stained-glass windows were ordered from Paris, while the sandstone was quarried near the town of Lamy, about 20 miles from Santa Fe. But there was a problem with the little chapel. Mouly’s plans neglected to include access to the choir loft, some 22 feet above the chapel floor. Then he died. The sisters sought a local carpenter

By Kelly Koepke

to build them a staircase that would not take up too much of the chapel’s small footprint, but they couldn’t find anyone. And they rejected the idea of using a ladder, preferring a less strenuous way to access the loft.

MYSTERY NUMBER ONE: WHO BUILT THE STAIRCASE? Years later, or so legend recounts, the devout sisters prayed for nine days to St. Joseph, patron saint of carpenters, for a solution to their problem. Afterward, a mysterious, gray-haired stranger appeared on a burro. He had only one requirement: complete privacy to build the staircase. Stories differ as to how long the old man stayed—one night, three months, nine months—but they all end the same way: the stranger disappeared without being paid, leaving behind 33 beautiful, tightly spiraled steps that climb precipitously from floor to loft. The mother superior claimed she didn’t know who built the staircase, and no mention of supplies or workers for the project exist in her meticulous records. Was the mysterious man St. Joseph himself, answering the sisters’ prayers? Was he simply an itinerant carpenter looking for work? Or, as loThe Sisters of Loretto sought a carpenter to build a staircase that was forgotten in the architect’s original design.

COURTESY PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES (NMHM/DCA), PA-MU-263.01

HHANDR.COM

17


THINKSTOCK

remains that the stairs stood unsupported for years, the sisters using them without incident. The design is, even to this day, as innovative as it is beautiful. The carpenter used only square wooden pegs—no nails or glue—to fasten the pieces together. Theories abound, offered up by architects, engineers, and physicists, as to how the staircase previously stood without support. Some point to the double-helix shape, the small diameter of the inner spiral (which could act as a center pole) and the pegs, all of which give strength and stability, despite a disconcerting bounce when weight is placed on the steps. A paper published recently in Physical Review Applied by David Tománek of Michigan State University and Arthur G. Every of the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, South Africa, analyzed the helical coil structure of the staircase. The professors’ conclusion is that the very design of the spirals is what provides its stability. But Every, in an email to Loretto Chapel curator Richard Lindsley, stated, “Being able to describe the physical origin of the rigidity of the staircase does not make it less miraculous. It makes it more miraculous in my mind, since the builder would have to be more ingenious than all civil engineers so far!”

The Gothic Revival–style chapel is modeled after Sainte-Chapelle in Paris.

MYSTERY NUMBER THREE: WHAT IS THE STAIRCASE MADE OF?

cal historian Mary Jean Straw Cook posits, was he Francois-Jean Rochas, an expert woodworker who had done other carpentry projects around Santa Fe? Straw Cook discovered a logbook entry from the mother superior to support the theory: “March 1881: Paid for wood Mr. Rochas, $150.00.”

MYSTERY NUMBER TWO: HOW DOES THE STAIRCASE STAY UP? Mystery number two is how the staircase stands. When built, it had no visible means of support—no center pole and no attachment to the wall. (The current railing and a bracket fastening the staircase to a nearby pillar were added in 1887.) However, the fact

The last mystery of the miraculous Loretto Chapel staircase has to do with the kind of wood the stranger used to build it. The short answer is spruce. But the devil—or in this case, the miracle—is in the details. In 1996, after analyzing a wood sample taken from the staircase, wood technologist Forrest N. Easly concluded that the density of the material does not match any kind of known spruce. In fact, the wood is so dense, it has the properties of a hardwood—but spruce is a softwood. So where did the wood come from? A mystery, indeed. Whatever your take on the mysteries of the Loretto staircase, the structure is beautiful, elegant, and an intriguing part of the City Different.


CHOOSE CULTURE ANY DAY OF THE WEEK! MARTES

Come dance! Every Tuesday is ¡Baile! Rueda de Casino (Cuban Salsa) Dance Class–No partner needed!

Learn about the history, culture and literature of Hispanos worldwide or research your family history in the Library and Genealogy Center.

MIÉRCOLES JUEVES

Enjoy a Bank of America Free Thursday Film, participate in an adult night of artistic fun during ¡HAH! Happy Arte Hour, or come to Salud y Sabor for a free evening of food, art, and entertainment.

FRI SAT

VIERNES

Celebrate the end of the week with a paleta from Pop Fizz, or check out one of our performing arts offerings—whether you like modern or traditional dance, music or theatre, there is something for everyone. Bring your family to ¡Vamos al Museo! and create an art project, or come enjoy a book reading and signing or a La Canoa Legacy Series lecture.

SUN

THU WED TUE

*EXCEPT MONDAYS

The NHCC Art Museum offers a permanent exhibit in addition to rotating exhibits (NM residents free on the first Sunday of each month) or visit the Mundos de Mestizaje, a 4,000 square-foot fresco located in the NHCC’s Torreón.

SÁBADOS

National Hispanic Cultural Center 1701 4th Street SW • Albuqerque, NM 87507

DOMINGOS (505) 724-4771 www.nhccnm.org

November 11, 2017 – April 20, 2018

Saints are the ultimate time travelers as they exist both in the past and present. Time Travelers explores the enduring imagery of Christian saints created by New Mexico artists. By pairing historical and contemporary pieces, the exhibition looks at how the portrayal of a saint compares throughout time.

La Sagrada Familia, 2017 by Frank Zamora

MUSEUM OF SPANISH COLONIAL ART

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe | 750 Camino Lejo | 505.982.2226 Open 10 am – 5 pm, Tuesday – Sunday | www.spanishcolonial.org


D I S COV E R O N E - O F -A- K I N D AU T H E N T I C N AT I V E A M E R I C A N J E W E L RY, P OT T E RY A N D M O R E AT O U R DA K KYA G I F T B O U T I Q U E . V I S I T DA K KYA O N E O F T H E FO L LOW I N G LO C AT I O N S : I N H OT E L C H ACO | 2 0 0 0 B E L L A M A H AV E . N W, A L B U Q U E R Q U E | H OT E LC H ACO.CO M I N E L D O R A D O H OT E L & S PA | 3 0 9 W. SA N F R A N C I S CO ST. , SA N TA F E | E L D O R A D O H OT E L .CO M I N E L M O N T E SAG R A D O | 3 1 7 K I T C A R S O N R D. , TAO S | E L M O N T E SAG R A D O.CO M


Wedding Bliss HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS FEATURE NON-DENOMINATIONAL CHAPELS FOR WEDDINGS WITH A TASTE OF NEW MEXICO. HHANDR.COM

21


TALITHA A. TARRO

22

WINTER/SPRING 2018

The Southwestern-style wedding chapel, San Isidro de Capilla, is located at Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town. Complete with Spanish Colonial accents as well as punched tin light fixtures, the design is based on 19th century chapels and missions in New Mexico. The non-denominational chapel seats 156 wedding guests on rustic wooden benches under a soaring vaulted beam ceiling.

SHUTTERFREEK PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO

HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS has made it a point to be the standout company for New Mexico weddings. With each property representing the culture, heritage, and beauty of the state, it is no wonder that so many couples dream of getting married at a Heritage hotel. Highly experienced staff and dedicated event management ensure that any vision or request is met.


La Capilla de Oro, at the Eldorado Hotel & Spa, is a clean and modern space, ideal for ceremonies in Santa Fe. Impressive design elements include white tile flooring, modern white Kartell chairs, and a contrasting, hand-carved, gilded altar. The chapel seats up to 150 guests. Recessed candelabra shapes offer customizable LED lighting, while asymmetrical, deep-set windows allow natural light to illuminate the space.

SHUTTERFREEK

HHANDR.COM

23


New Mexico’s spectacular weather and stunning landscapes make for magical winter adventures. Pictured is Kachina Peak near Taos.

24

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Adventures IN DIVERSE LANDSCAPES Winter in New Mexico is like no place else.


From downhill skiing and snowboarding, to back country adventures, New Mexico’s northern montains have it all.

N

ew Mexico’s diverse landscapes beckon adventures of all kinds. It’s no wonder people fall in love with the state—big skies, mild winters, horizons that stretch forever. The Rocky Mountains tower from the Colorado state line south past Santa Fe. The plains stretch from the east to abut the Sangre de Cristo Mountains (the Rockies’ terminus) and the Sandia Mountains. An intermountain plateau covers the remainder of the state, unfolding across expansive sagebrush mesas, redrock cliffs, and alabaster buttes. The state is second only to Arizona in the number of days of sunshine each year—with warm middays making it possible to shed the ski jacket in favor of a light sweater. Mornings gliding down the ski slopes can lead to afternoons hiking rolling foothills.

26

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Mountains Although visitors may think of it as desert, New Mexico is home to 88 mountain ranges. Within those peaks, there are plenty of outdoor recreation options. For skiing, there is legendary Taos Mountain with 15 lifts, 110 trails, and a vertical drop of 3281 feet. With 305 inches of annual snowfall it is a skier and snowboarder’s paradise. Ski Santa Fe, located just 15 minutes from downtown, boasts 83 trails and 1725 feet of vertical drop. The Sandia Mountains (“watermelon” in Spanish), towering east of Albuquerque are so named because early Spanish colonists thought the wild squash growing here were watermelons. Ask a local and they’ll wax poetic about how the Sandias turn pink and red at sunset—a view you can catch at Hotel Chaco’s rooftop Level 5 restaurant. Adventurers seeking a day out near Albuquerque in winter and spring can jump on the 2.7-mile tram in northeast Albuquerque and travel over dizzying heights to the top of the Sandias—more than 10,000 feet high—with its unmatched views of the city, the Rio Grande Valley, and beyond. Sandia Peak’s ski trails cascade down the east side of the mountains. The ski ares is not always open, thanks to the mild climate, but when it is, you can sometimes ski or board its 1,700 vertical feet in

DOWNHILL SPORTS Taos Ski Valley, Taos

Ski Santa Fe, Santa Fe

Taos Ski Valley is notable for

Ski Santa Fe is equally

its steep-and-deep terrain,

known for what’s off the

made more accessible in

slopes as on: It lies within a

the past few years thanks to

15-minute drive of the his-

the lift to 12,481-foot Kachi-

toric Santa Fe Plaza, and all

na Peak, a previously hike-

the art galleries, museums,

in run with a 3,250-foot

and restaurants clustered

vertical drop. Taos Ski Valley

there. More than 80 trails

also has a top ski school,

wend down the mostly

with lessons for skiers

intermediate terrain and a

of all levels, even first-tim-

1,700-foot vertical drop.

ers. New for the 2017–18 ski season, is a completely

Sandia Peak Ski,

renovated children’s center

Albuquerque

and a pulse gondola that

The closest ski area to the

seamlessly transports visi-

state’s largest city, Sandia

tors between the children’s

Peak ski area cascades

center and the plaza area,

down the east side of the

where several lifts depart.

Sandia Mountains. It’s accessible via a winding

FOR YOUR CALENDAR

45-minute drive from Albu-

The Freeride World Tour, a

querque along the Turquoise

no-holds-barred ski event

Trail National Scenic Byway

that colors outside the lines

or via a ride on one of North

of traditional runs, generally

America’s longest aerial

makes a stop in Taos in

trams. The Sandia Peak

March. Grab a seat along

Tramway climbs 2.7 miles

the slopes to watch some

from Albuquerque’s foothills

of the sport’s top athletes

to the 10,378-foot top of

compete in this tour-qualify-

Sandia Peak.

ing event.

HHANDR.COM

27


CUSTOM SLOPE TOURS IN NEW MEXICO Heritage Hotels & Resorts offers an exclusive skiing and snowboard tour experience with former professional snowboarder Alexis Waite, a USA National Snowboarding Champion at 18 and a six-time Winter X-Games competitor and finalist. Individuals or corporate ski and snowboard retreats can be organized for families and groups, and all adventures can be custom tailored

shorts and a T-shirt. You can reach it by car, too: The drive takes you through a narrow canyon, into the high country, and up the steep and evergreen-covered east face of the Sandias—a completely different landscape from the west side. You’ll pass through the Cibola National Forest on the way, which has plenty of hiking and snowshoeing trails. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains, which run from southern Colorado through northern New Mexico, are home to acres of public land for hiking, fishing, and backcountry skiing. The Sangres, with downhill skiing at Ski Santa Fe, are within minutes of the historic Santa Fe Plaza. For groomed trails appropriate for cross-country skiing, most people head to Enchanted Forest ski area, with 20 miles of trails for classic and freestyle cross-country skiing. The area is aptly named—snowshoeing and skiing here is like walking through a fairytale forest, with the moss dripping from ponderosa branches swaying slightly in the breeze. Outside Los Alamos, the volcanic bowl of the 89,000-acre Valles Caldera National Preserve becomes a snowshoeing haven each winter, with miles of open expanse ripe for exploration. Once a month, the preserve stays open late for snowshoeing under the full moon. The state has thousands of miles of remote mountain trails to explore, but a true hiking gem is nestled outside Cochiti Pueblo between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. At Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, the volcanic ash cast there millions of years ago has eroded into unique cone-shaped pinnacles similar to those found in Turkey. Follow the national recreation trail 28

WINTER/SPRING 2018

CHRISTY CHALOUX

Alexis Waite

from beginner to advanced. For more information please visit hhandr.com/snow.

The Sandia Mountains at dusk.

through narrow slot canyons, brushing your fingertips against alabaster cliffs. Climb the delicate pumice and tuff up a steep trail, becoming level with the formations—some as high as 90 feet—then rise above them to take in the “tent city,” some of which is topped with hard caprocks, like gigantic pointy hats.


The northern Rio Grande has great rapids in spring.

Rivers There’s no doubt that the Rio Grande provides the lifeblood of the state’s population centers—after all, Spanish colonists set down roots on its banks, developing a complex system of agricultural irrigation still in use today, and before that, Pueblo Indians used its waters for sustenance.

The Rio Grande—the fourth longest river in the U.S.—courses from the Colorado state line south through Taos and on to Albuquerque, all the way to Las Cruces and beyond. Back in the late 1500s, Juan de Oñate’s parched caravan reached the river near present-day El Paso, Texas, and in celebration, Oñate declared this new land the Kingdom of New Mexico. The Rio Grande, like the state itself, changes its look depending on where you are: it can be milk-chocolate-colored flat water for paddleboarding, or a frothing flow of rapids for a heart-stopping rafting trip. For anglers, the state’s high-mountain streams and lazy meandering rivers provide ample opportunities to cast a line. Fly fishing is at its best from Santa Fe northward; one particular gem is the Rio en Medio, just a short drive past Tesuque to the north of Santa Fe. The small river is full of shady fishing holes where wild rainbow trout await your bait. Follow the riverside hiking trail for a mile or so to a refreshing waterfall, or continue farther to sample more high-alpine fishing at Nambé Lake. In Albuquerque, the Rio Grande Valley State Park is a 4,300acre stretch of riverside paths for hiking, biking, and wildlife watching. The park and its cottonwood canopy stretches the length of the city. The locals call it the Bosque, which is Spanish for “forest.” Walking distance from Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town and Hotel Chaco, the river and its trails, along with the Rio Grande Nature Center State Park (a park within a park), are a perfect place to while away a quiet winter afternoon on foot or on a rented bike.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING, SNOWSHOEING AND WINTER HIKING Enchanted Forest Ski Area:

Other places:

More than 20 miles of groomed

Up Hyde Park Road, outside

trails for classic and freestyle

of Santa Fe, the Norski Trail

cross-country skiing. The paths

loops 1.9 miles through the

wend through towering pon-

Santa Fe National Forest and,

derosas just outside Red River.

come winter, is dedicated to

First-timers can get on the

cross-country skiing.

trails easily thanks to a rental shop and instruction area.

Closer to Los Alamos, the Valles Caldera National Pre-

FOR YOUR CALENDAR:

serve offers winter hiking and

Check ahead for special events

snowshoeing. The park is open

like the Just Desserts Eat &

daily from 9:00 to 5:00.

Ski, when skiers work up an appetite skiing and stop at chocolate-laden dessert tables along the paths.

HHANDR.COM

29


The migration of the sand hill cranes begins in November and ends in March.

BIRD WATCHING Bosque del Apache

the field, stop by the Visitor

Set along a major migratory

Center, open daily from

route 96 miles south of

10:00 to 5:00.

Albuquerque, Bosque del

emnrd.state.nm.us/

Apache National Wildlife

spd/riograndenature

Refuge overflows with

centerstatepark.html

hundreds of thousands of cranes, geese, and ducks

Valle de Oro

flying south for winter. The

Located just seven miles

57,000-acre refuge along

south of downtown Al-

the Rio Grande is a birder’s

buquerque, Valle de Oro

paradise, as migrating

National Wildlife Refuge

waterfowl overwinter

stretches along the east

here November through

bank of the Rio Grande.

February. fws.gov/refuge/

The refuge’s 570 acres are

bosque_del_apache/

currently alfalfa farmland, with restoration efforts to

30

Rio Grande Nature Center

begin in the next few years.

Almost 300 species of birds

The long grasses and

can be seen at the park,

irrigation ditches on the

including the New Mexico

site attract ground-nesting

state bird, the roadrunner.

birds, grassland birds,

About 40 of these are

geese, migratory cranes,

yearlong residents, and the

and wading birds.

rest are seasonal migrants.

fws.gov/refuge/

Before heading out into

Valle_de_Oro

WINTER/SPRING 2018

Up north near Taos, the water is white and the rafting prime beginning in March. The river itself is a playground for adventurous kayakers, rafters, and stand-up paddleboarders. A 17-mile stretch nicknamed the Taos Box has challenging rapids that crash through the steep basalt cliffs of the Rio Grande Gorge. It’s a rafter’s paradise, with numerous outfitters leading intrepid adventurers along the stretch. Farther south, there are more mellow floats along a wide expanse of river. Paddleboarders join the rafting flotilla in these gentle waters. The only sounds are the birds, the rustling of the leaves, and paddles dipping into the water.

Wildlife The Rio Grande provides more than great recreation—it’s an important part of the Rio Grande Migratory Flyway, the route hundreds of thousands of birds follow as they wing north and south with the seasons. It’s also prime bird-watching territory year-round, with hawks and falcons nesting along the steep cliffs of the Rio Grande Gorge outside Taos. Ospreys, herons, geese, ducks, and even hummingbirds follow the route during migrations, but the boisterous sandhill cranes are surely the most notable as they trumpet their arrival from the north. They rest all along the river, walking along the shore on their stiltlike legs—check them out at the Rio Grande Nature Center. A short drive through Albuquerque brings wildlife lovers to the state’s newest wildlife refuge, along the southern end of the city limits. Valle de Oro, the Southwest’s first urban wildlife refuge, offers quiet trails along the river that provide a bird’seye view, as it were, of bald eagles, sandhill cranes, blue herons, hawks, porcupines, and coyotes.


Tent Rocks provides hiking adventure among unique rock formations.

INDIAN JEWELRY | RUGS | DRUMS POTTERY | KACHINAS | SANDPAINTINGS

SKIP MAISELS Albuquerque’s LARGEST Indian Showroom in the Heart of Downtown

Bird watchers can follow the migration route 90 minutes south to the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, a bucket-list stop for aficionados. In the early-morning dark (dawn and dusk are prime times), visitors gather on platforms over the edges of wetlands in the 57,000-acre refuge. These ponds shelter thousands of red-faced sandhill cranes and hundreds of thousands of geese and ducks as they overwinter. As the rosy hues of dawn light the sky, the birds begin to wake, fluttering their wings and trilling. As though cued by a conductor, at once the flocks take flight, winging upward in a great whoosh of air. They circle overhead, putting on a show before getting down to the business of transit. They fly just a few miles north, where they spend the day grazing among grain fields planted just for their needs before returning for their dramatic en masse fly-in at sunset. No matter what your taste, New Mexico’s vast and diverse landscape offers adventures both tame and wild, but without doubt, unforgettable.

FREE

Indian Handcrafted Dream Catcher when you mention this ad

510 Central SW at 5th, Albuquerque, NM 242-6526 • SKIPMAISELS.COM


THINKSTOCK

El Santuario de Chimayรณ is a humble church in northern New Mexico that is rich with mystery and legend.


WITH ITS BEAUTY AND GRACE, EL SANTUARIO DE CHIMAYÓ IS ONE OF NEW MEXICO’S HALLOWED PLACES.

Sacred Walk,

SACRED PLACE by Steve Larese


S

OME WALK FOR LOVED ONES. Some walk to and found the cross. Three times the cross that’s now part of heal themselves. Some walk for their Catholic faith, the altar was moved to a church in another village, and three and others for an undefined spirituality. Reasons are times the cross disappeared, only to be found back in the hole many but the destination is the same every Holy in Chimayó. Understanding that the cross was meant to stay in Week in New Mexico: El Santuario de Chimayó. To Chimayó, a small chapel was built on the site. Historical records many El Santuario de Chimayó is one of the most sacred places show that the land belonged to Bernardo Abeyta, who in 1810 in the U.S., similar to Lourdes in France. built a small private chapel devoted to Christ of Esquipulas, Every Good Friday, an estimated 30,000 people of all walks which was replaced with the larger El Santuario in 1816. Offiof life join together in a pilgrimage to this humble church in cial Catholic correspondence shows that already miracles were northern New Mexico, swelling the rural village’s population of being attributed to the church, and that people were taking dirt 3,000 tenfold. Some walkers wear bright athletic gear; others from there, believing it to be holy. El Santuario de Chimayó was walk barefoot. Some are festive; others somber. They come from donated to the Archdiocese of Santa Fe in 1929, and is still an just outside of Chimayó and from as far away as Albuquerque. active Catholic church. In 1970, El Santuario de Chimayó was Some years, the intense New Mexico sun adds to the hardship. declared a National Historic Landmark. Other years walkers brace against cold spring rain or snow flurToday, visitors may still enter a small side room and take a ries. If you’re driving Interstate 25 between Albuquerque and scoop of dirt from a hole in the floor. The blessed dirt is reSanta Fe during the week before Good Friday, you’re likely to plenished by the priest and not miraculously, as once believed. see pilgrims on the side of the highway. In the sacristy, the walls are lined with crutches and braces El Santuario de Chimayó is a humble structure, made of meter- left by those who attribute their healing to answered prayers. thick adobe without a straight line or right angle to be found. For Hundreds of notes expressing thanks or praying for miracles centuries, it’s been believed to be a place of miracles and answered are tucked throughout, and photographs of loved ones left by prayers, with dirt from its grounds being collected by the faithful. those who pray for them stare through the candlelight. It’s a Its twin bell towers cut into dark blue skies, and the Acequia del powerful display of faith, love, and hope. Potrero gurgles past its courtyard wall and arched gate. The paintWhile Chimayó has always had a history of pilgrimages, erly scene poses against a landscape of taupe hills specked with the modern Good Friday tradition is believed to have taken dark piñon trees. Those hills in the indigenous Tewa language shape in the 1940s. New Mexicans were among the first to see are called Tsi Mayoh, which the Spanish who first came here in combat during World War II, and 1,800 were forced into what the late 1600s transliterated as “Chimayó.” With the area isolat- would become known as the Bataan Death March in the Philed for centuries, vestiges of colonial Spanish ippines. Their families back in New Mexiare still spoken here. Chimayó chile is from a co, unsure of their fate, would themselves Good Friday is March 30 Spanish variety grown before the founding of walk to El Santuario de Chimayó to pray this year, but El Santuario the United States, and Chimayó weavings are for them. Later, survivors would make the de Chimayó is open prized for their beauty and traditional craftspilgrimage to give thanks. to visitors all year long. manship. El Santuario de Chimayó’s cool inelsantuariodechimayo.us. terior smells of earth, wood and wax, and it takes a minute for visitors’ eyes to adjust. Votive candles glow in the dim light, each one burning with the love of a person for a person. Retablos depicting the Stages of the Cross lead to the colonial masterpiece of an alter, past rows of wooden pews mirroring the heavy vigas and corbels supporting the roof. El Santuario de Chimayó is a blend of spirituality and culture, beauty and grace, miracles and mystery that define northern New Mexico. It’s also steeped in lore. One story says that a farmer was plowing when he uncovered a cross. Other stories say that a praying priest saw a beam of light emitting from the ground

34

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Pilgrims walk to Chimayรณ from all over New Mexico, arriving on Good Friday.

HHANDR.COM

35


The sanctuary is full of architectural details.

“You don’t have to be Catholic,” says Diana Sainz of Santa Fe, who’s made the pilgrimage seven times. “But for everyone, it can be an act of selflessness, an act of respect and love for other people.” Sainz begins from Tesuque, 20 miles away from Chimayó, and takes about six hours to complete her journey. “My younger daughter invited me to join her the first time,” Sainz says. “It was with a bit of trepidation that I said yes, because she and a college friend had walked the year before and they were crying because it was all so painful. They literally couldn’t walk afterwards and their legs

were very swollen. I have been a daily walker and a hiker for years, but certainly not for 20 miles at a time.” Sainz says the pain of losing her husband and father was foremost on some of her pilgrimages, and helped her feel connected to the meaning of Good Friday. The physical act of walking helped her cope with her losses, she says. Other years, her walks were filled with gratitude for her daughters and other blessings. “I think the pilgrimage is important because of community,” Sainz says. “When we engage together for a higher purpose, I think sacrifice and mystery can meet head-on with spirituality. Somehow we can face our vulnerability, our sins, our pain, our hope.” For Colleen Constance Franco, her walk from Albuquerque began at the behest of her mother-in-law. “My mother-in-law had always asked me to walk with her, but I never took the time from my busy schedule,” Franco says. She takes a week to walk the 90 miles north to Chimayó, to arrive on Good Friday with thousands of others making the pilgrimage. “My very first year, during the beginning of the week, I was ready to give up,” she says. “I was standing in line to take a shower, and met a 90-year-old woman named Sara who had been walking for years. She became my inspiration. I thought to myself, ‘If she can do it, I can do it.’” Franco says she feels a range of emotions during her journey. “The beginning of the week is tough. You’re getting up at 3:30 a.m. every day to avoid the sun. Your feet are blistered and you’re tired. By midweek, Wednesday, you’re all in. You’re taking in all of the experiences. Some are so amazing, you decide not to share them and keep the warmth inside you. Come Friday, you’re sad to see it all end. By Saturday, an emotion comes over you that you can’t explain. It’s spiritual, it’s beautiful, and it becomes a part of who you are. The women I walked with became my family, and you feel closer to God than you could ever imagine...closer to those who have passed on, and closer to the people you will see when the walk is over.”

AT HOTEL CHIMAYÓ DE SANTA FE, Heritage works with the Chimayó Cultural Preservation Association to highlight the village’s intriguing blend of spirituality and creative traditions. The rooms and suites feature original artwork and furnishings created by more than 70 local artists. “We initially met with the Chimayó community to obtain their blessing to tell their story,” says Heritage Hotels & Resorts CEO Jim Long. “We support a program, Los Maestros, that links village elders with younger residents to share their community’s cultural and artistic traditions to reinforce cultural continuity.”

36

WINTER/SPRING 2018


A Center of Hispanic Culture and Learning 20 YEARS IN THE SANTA FE RAILYARD

555 Camino de la Familia, Santa Fe 87501 505-992-0591 elmuseocultural.org

EL MUSEO PROGRAMS

ART EVENTS & EXPOSITIONS

El Museo produces and hosts exhibits, activities and events that celebrate and promote local culture and traditions. We are creating a library and growing our permanent collection. We present both Spanish language and youth classes as well as host community events.

THEATER & COMMUNITY ACTIVITIES

EL MUSEO WINTER MARKET

Every Weekend from September 30, 2017 to May 28, 2018. Saturday 8-3pm Sunday 9-4 pm. More than 60 vendors of Fine Art, Folk Art, Jewelry, Books, Textiles, Furniture, Photography, Rugs, Vintage Clothing and Antiques. www.elmuseoculturalwintermarket.org

Gateway Partner with the Northern Rio Grande National Heritage Area Anri Tsutsumi Painting: “Parallel Fairy Tales of the Clock-men” anritsutsumi.com


At Casa EspaĂąa the mirrors and red plush couches add a grandeur to the venue. Opposite page, an original Spanish Colonial revival mirror adorns the wall. Below, a carved wooden lion from Peru.


Contemporary Antiquity

T

he threads of ancient trade routes

from Spain to Mexico to Asia weave through décor found throughout New Mexico. This style uses heavy dark woods, outsize proportions, ornate carving, stamped silver, and iron handles. It came here with the Spanish colonists but has deeper and more exotic roots. Gold and silver, spices, and furnishings traveled with the Manila Galleons, ships that sailed a trade route connecting Spain with Acapulco in Mexico and Manila in the Philippines. The route ran from 1565 to 1815—the longest continual trade route in history. Later in the 16th century, Juan de Oñate arrived in the New World and settled in New Mexico. Spanish settlers HHANDR.COM

39


40

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Opposite page, clockwise from upper left: Peruvian pieces include a chest from the baroque period and an art deco oval mirror and urn; Mexico and India collide with this urn and candlesticks from Goa, India; a 17th-century sabino wood cheese cabinet; and a theater prop candlestick made of canvas and wood.

sought the familiar in this strange new world. They carried with them woodcut prints of European furniture—heavily influenced by religious pieces and the Moors of North Africa. Local artisans were asked to re-create the furniture, based on these relatively primitive illustrations, says Sam Saunders, an expert in Spanish Colonial antiques. Saunders, owner of the world-renowned Holler & Saunders shop in Nogales, Arizona, has worked closely with Heritage Hotels & Resorts on the décor for Casa España, located west of Eldorado Hotel. “This was a true global influence,” Saunders says. “The Asian pieces were made with the same idea of having local artisans craft the pieces from European models, but they had a little more of an Asian influence.” The first carpenters’ guild was established in Mexico City in 1568. Therein began a system of passing down trade se-

Guests enjoy the cocktails and decor at Casa España.

A screen from the Philippines and a blandino candlestick from the early 19th century.

HHANDR.COM

41


Left, Altar of the Four Scholars, from 18th-century Peru, with a Colonial-era aliso wood chair. Below, Casa EspaĂąa is great for private parties. Opposite page, Sam Saunders of Holler & Saunders specializes in Colonial Contemporary pieces.

42

WINTER/SPRING 2018


I

Brilliant

Art and History. Jewelry to sculpture. Folk art to fine craft. Paintings, prints, and photography.

crets from father to son, from carpenter to carpenter, a tradition that is largely still in practice in New Mexico and is evident in the Spanish Market which takes place in Santa Fe each July. These carpenters copied the intricate carvings and heavy designs in cedar, walnut, cypress and mesquite. However, without any actual pieces of furniture to use as models, proportions were altered and the furnishings had a much more handmade and rough style, Saunders says. Saunders occupies a unique compound in Nogales, where he mixes Spanish Colonial with knife-edge lines and contemporary materials. He also combines modern art with ornate carved pieces. It’s a look he calls Colonial Contemporary—not just for the Spanish Colonial in evidence, but also for the Asian influence that sneaks into the style. At Casa España, the architecture of the original French fur trader’s residence has been retained along with the energy that was once Santa Fe’s red light district—adding to the eclectic atmosphere. Interior designer Adriana Long partnered with Saunders to create a magical environment that boldly pairs Spanish Colonial pieces with contemporary furnishings and art. The décor combines ornate silver-framed mirrors and carved wooden sideboards with contemporary red and blue couches, steel-and-glass tables and light fixtures. The venue, which is available for private events, offers a one-of-a-kind experience. CASA ESPAÑA is an exclusive venue available for private events. Visit casaespanasantafe.com or call 505-988-4455 for more information.

Experience the unique artistic juncture of Native, Hispano, and Anglo cultures on exhibit at Albuquerque Museum.

Albuquerque Museum 2000 Mountain Road NW Albuquerque, NM 87104 Located in the heart of Old Town 505-243-7255 Top to Bottom: Luis Jiménez, 1940 El Paso, Texas – 2006 Hondo, New Mexico Howl, 1986, cast and patinated bronze (1/5), Museum purchase, 1987 General Obligation Bonds, 1988.27.1 Tom Palmore, born 1944 Ada, Oklahoma; lives Santa Fe, New Mexico Survivor, 1995, oil on canvas, Museum purchase, 1993 General Obligations Bonds, 1995.30.1 Tonque Pueblo Jar, Rio Grande Glaze Ware, ca. 1450–1600 Clay, slip, glaze paint, Gift of Richard A. Bice via the Albuquerque Archaeological Society, PC1974.33.9 Cultural Services Department, City of Albuquerque, Richard J. Berry

cabq.gov/museum


At the Roots Chocolate, chile, and wine all have deep history in New Mexico by Nicolasa Chavez

Chile was cultivated in Central America long before taking root in New Mexico. Now it is a staple of our cuisine.


KITTY LEAKEN

W NICOLASA CHAVEZ

HEN SPANISH SAILORS FIRST ARRIVED on American shores in 1492, they caused one of the greatest revolutions in culinary history. Referred to as the Columbian Exchange, this instant cross-pollination of food coming both from and to Europe was perhaps the single most important influence on how we eat in New Mexico today. Such items as chile and chocolate from Central America were of great interest to the Spanish. A century later, these same items made the 1400-mile journey up the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (the Royal Road of the Interior Lands), which connected Mexico City to just north of present day Santa Fe. Indeed, we owe New Mexico’s culinary traditions to the rich intermingling of foods and spices that occurred during the early colonial period. In 1521, Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés instituted an aggressive agricultural policy, calling for every Spanish flotilla heading to Mexico to include fruit and vegetable seeds: apricot, peach, fig, quince, grapes and grapevine cuttings, garlic, onion, cabbage, and lettuce. The Spanish also import-

ed cattle, pigs, and chickens. These foods later traveled north with Juan de Oñate, who established the first colonial settlements on behalf of Spain in what is now New Mexico, and who happened to be married to Cortés’s granddaughter. The Oñate caravan carried 25 pounds of maize (American corn); 37 pounds of wheat; 846 goats; 198 oxen; 2,517 sheep; 383 rams; 799 full-grown cows, steers, and bulls; an unknown number of calves; and 53 hogs. Oñate made sure the caravan also had plenty of cooking supplies, carrying close to 25 pounds of olive oil, 56 pounds of sugar, and another 787 pounds of flour. In 1600, a mix of Old and New World food products were part of another caravan north: It contained 80 small boxes of Mexican chocolate. Settlers at the time included Franciscan missionaries to minister to the Indians. They held Mass every day, and that required a ready supply of wine for the Holy Sacrament. Rather than voyage several months for supplies, the Mission, or Criolla, grapes reached New Mexican soil in 1629, nearly 150 years earlier than grapes arrived in what is now California. For HHANDR.COM

45


KITTY LEAKEN NICOLASA CHAVEZ BLAIR CLARK

Chile, chocolate, corn, beans, and squash are staples of the New Mexican cuisine and have been since the Spanish colonists arrived. Archaeologists have discovered ceremonial chocolate vessels at Chaco Canyon, dating to 900 CE.

nearly 300 years, these plump fruits were staples of New Mexican wine production. In fact, wine production in New Mexico, and parts of South America, was so prolific that growers in Andalucía, Spain, protested, and the Crown attempted to outlaw production in the Americas. But New Mexican production was never thwarted—and the area around present-day Socorro and south toward Las Cruces became one of the capitals of production until the end of the 19th century, when root rot all but killed the industry. It has since been rejuvenated, with more than 60 New Mexico wineries now producing close to a million gallons of wine a year. Both chile and chocolate took root in New Mexican cuisine during this colonial period. Both were cultivated in Central America for thousands of years prior to the arrival of the Span46

WINTER/SPRING 2018

ish, and Oñate and his settlers brought them north. During the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, in which the Pueblo Indians sought to expel the Spanish from their lands, the Puebloans decreed to get rid of not just the Spaniards, but all things Spanish. They planned to burn the chile seeds; however, chile had already become such a staple of the diet here, it claimed its righteous spot next to “the three sisters”: corn, beans, and squash. Today, chile remains integral to New Mexican cuisine—whether Spanish, Mexican, or Native American in origin.

THE FOOD OF THE GODS There is evidence that chocolate came to New Mexico much earlier: The testing of broken pottery sherds found at Chaco Canyon, in northwestern New Mexico by University of


So close you can taste it...

Just steps away from Hotel Albuquerque & Hotel Chaco in Old Town

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 2031 Mountain Road NW 505.766.5100 SeasonsABQ.com


The fixtures at Hotel Chaco represent ancient Chacoan ceremonial pottery.

48

WINTER/SPRING 2018

MINH QUAN

New Mexico anthropologist Patricia Crown, dates the use of cacao to as early as 900 CE. According to Crown’s study, chemical residues found on the iconic black-and-white pottery jar sherds reveal that the practice of drinking chocolate had spread at least as far north as Chaco Canyon, 400 years earlier than chocolate was thought to have reached what is now the United States. How that chocolate came to Chaco is something of a mystery: The closest cacao source may have been central Mexico, some 1,200 miles away. The evidence of both the vessels and the cacao residue, which were used in rituals in Mesoamerica, suggests that the Chaco people acquired the ingredients and the knowledge to perform similar rites at Chaco’s largest structure, Pueblo Bonito. Originally from Central America, the seeds of the cacao tree were first transformed into beverages some 3,000 years ago. Chocolate was used spiritually, medicinally, as monetary exchange, and for its nutritional value. Conquered Central American tribes paid “tribute” fees in cacao beans to the Aztecs. Nearly 100 years after Oñate’s first voyage, Don Diego de Vargas re-colonized New Mexico after the Pueblo Revolt, bringing wedges of ground cacao for use in negotiations and as a gift to visiting dignitaries. His 1704 last will and testament specified that the chocolate in his personal possession was to be used to pay the friar who officiated at his funeral. According to notations in the will, chocolate in de Vargas’ personal supply weighed about 225 pounds and was stored in two large baskets. He also had sugar and chocolate-making accoutrements, including one case of ground cacao paste; two cases of sugar; 39 copper chocolate pots; and eight dozen molinillos (chocolate beaters or whisks), used to whip the drink until a froth formed on top, much like today’s latte. By the 19th century, New Mexico was already famous for its regional cuisine. Visitors who traveled via the Santa Fe Trail were often greeted with a warm cup of the foaming chocolate drink. Ironically, it was the opening of the Santa Fe Trail and the introduction of food from the Eastern United States that eventually killed the daily ritual of drinking chocolate—coffee and tea were viewed as more refined than the thick, bitter beverage. Today, those ancient foods are still a major part of New Mexico culinary tradition. Local fare is a mix of flavors for every palette, born from the fruits of the Columbian Exchange.

WHISPERS OF THE PAST The pottery found at Pueblo Bonito, said to be ceremonial chocolate containers, are replicated today in the Hotel Chaco (Albuquerque) hallways. Lee and Flo Vallo from Acoma Pueblo, about 60 miles west of Albuquerque, make cylindrical clay pottery vessels with intricate black and white designs that are similar to those among the treasures found at Chaco Canyon. Working in the traditional pottery methods, the Vallos mine the clay from a sacred mountain, dry and prepare the clay, form the vessels using traditional methods and hand-paint them with a quill from a yucca plant using natural pigments. The Vallos frequently perform demonstrations at National Park sites and at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque.

Lee and Flo Vallo, artisans from Acoma Pueblo.


EL MONTE SAGRADO 317 KIT CARSON ROAD, TAOS 575.758.3502 ELMONTESAGRADO.COM

Northern New Mexico’s Most Exclusive Luxury Resort

A HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS PROPERTY


Full IMMERSION Notable chef Mark Miller obsesses about flavor, technique, and culinary authenticity. by Kelly Koepke

TALKING WITH MARK MILLER IS LIKE DRINKING FROM A FIRE HOSE: THE IDEAS COME TOO QUICKLY TO SWALLOW. IT’S EXHAUSTING IN THE VERY BEST WAY—AND IT MAKES YOU HUNGRY TO KNOW MORE ABOUT HOW GLOBAL CULTURAL TRADITIONS INFLUENCE TODAY’S RESTAURANT MENUS, HOW PHYSIOLOGY CHANGES HOW WE EXPERIENCE FLAVORS AND TEXTURES, AND HOW FOOD AFFECTS THE WAY WE SEE THE WORLD.



O

FTEN CALLED THE FOUNDER of modern Southwest cuisine, Mark Miller introduced the world to his cooking as the chef-founder of Santa Fe’s seminal Coyote Café. His first cookbook, Coyote Café: Foods from the Great Southwest, has sold over 200,000 copies and features the bold flavors and indigenous ingredients of the Southwest. He has authored 11 more best-selling cookbooks to date. Named one of the most influential chefs in the country by Life Magazine and presented with the 1996 James Beard Award for Best American Chef: Southwest, Miller has placed his stamp on the restaurants of Heritage Hotels & Resorts (see

“I CONTINUE TO BE IMMERSED IN THE SUBJECTS OF FOOD AND FOOD EDUCATION, AS I HAVE BEEN FOR MORE THAN 40 YEARS. SINCE I WAS A CHILD, I HAVE BEEN FASCINATED WITH AND CAPTIVATED BY THE TOPICS OF FOOD, EATING, AND DISCOVERING NEW FLAVORS AND INGREDIENTS, AND ALSO BY HOW COOKING TRANSFORMS AND CREATES FLAVORS.

sidebar) by mentoring some of its chefs. But what really excites him is influencing millions—if not billions—of people. He does this through public speaking and consulting with restaurants, food companies, and hospitality groups around the world. He estimates that one out of every five people on the planet has eaten his food. “I continue to be immersed in the subjects of food and food education, as I have been for more than 40 years. Since I was a child, I have been fascinated with and captivated by the topics of food, eating, and discovering new flavors and ingredients,

52

WINTER/SPRING 2018

and also by how cooking transforms and creates flavors...also the history and culture of food, and particularly the cultural perception of food,” he says. “Most chefs today don’t know that technique equals flavor. There’s a reason you sweat onions at the beginning of a recipe,” Miller says. “I have to teach chefs to unlearn how they do things, and to start tasting ingredients before they use them. Taste occurs over time and place: Is a flavor short or long? Slow or fast? Is the texture soft or hard? All these things matter when you’re making a dish. There has to be a balance and a layering. Good chefs feel the food, explore their sensual education, then rethink everything from start to finish.” When he’s not traveling the world (he’s been to more than 23 countries just in 2017), Miller is in his 1,000-square-foot Galisteo, New Mexico, kitchen or researching books from his 18,000-volume library, a continuation of his anthropology studies in college. “I go out to experience the world, then come back to New Mexico for the quiet,” he says. Miller’s favorite foods are the ones he remembers from his childhood in New England—game birds like quail and duck, cold-water fish, oysters, and lobster. When he travels, his goto restaurants epitomize the flavors of the culture he’s visiting. In London, it’s oysters and cold crab salad. In Spain, he visits a restaurant where all the food is grilled. And when he returns to New Mexico, the first thing he eats is a green chile cheeseburger. “For me, that cements my sense of being home,” he says. The light, space, and freedom from distraction draw him back, too, as does the combination of flavors we experience in New Mexico because of the influence of the varied cultures, ingredients, and cooking techniques here. Fire-roasted chiles and slow-cooked beans, highly spiced grilled meats, stewed corn and squash are all part of the fabric of New Mexican cuisine and culture. For Miller, cooking is all about technique, paired with a deep understanding of individual ingredients. What would he eat and with whom would he dine at his dream dinner party? A meal with four master Dutch painters: Van Eyck, Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Van Gogh. “They are all geniuses of the art world, centuries apart, and deeply dependent on each other. The later ones reinterpreted the world, based on the previous ones. I’d want to taste the food each one ate in his time to better understand their art. Food gives us insight into how people perceive the world. And I’m interested in how concepts develop over time,” he says.


CHEF GIL

A HERITAGE MENTOR Mark Miller influences Heritage menus

CHEF CRISTINA

MARK MILLER has worked with two Heritage Hotels & Resorts chefs so far to develop the menus at three Heritage restaurants, and is now working with Arturo Urreola of Luminaria at the Inn and Spa at Loretto. When Hotel Chaco Executive Chef Gilbert Aragon wanted to capture the layered hues of a New Mexico sunset for the menu at Level 5 Restaurant & Bar, Miller was just the man to help. Level 5 presents food that is unprocessed and simple, with integrity, natural vivacity, and flavor. “The idea was about how native peoples preserved foods—wild herbs, mushrooms, berries, game. Every dish speaks to pulling beauty and flavor from the wild,” says Aragon. This was the second time Miller had worked with Aragon, first mentoring him during the development of Tablao Flamenco at the Hotel Albuquerque. Miller even took Aragon to Seville, Spain, to experience firsthand the food, culture, and passion of the world of flamenco. Cristina Martinez, executive chef at Taos’ El Monte Sagrado, was already a respected chef when she met Miller. Her job interview, in which Miller took part, consisted of her cooking, and Miller tasting. Then the two cooked and tasted together, dissecting dishes and delving into culinary philosophy. Their time together resulted in Martinez drawing inspiration from indigenous and local vegetables, fruits, and meats raised by area farmers and in the hotel’s garden. “El Monte’s culture is rich, with diverse influences,” Martinez says. “So we do fresh, flavorful, and healthy, including vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free.”

A Sampler available seasonally FROM LEVEL 5: Pecan Roasted Venison and wild herb salad with a dark cherry mostarda and pinonjuniper mustard.

FROM EL MONTE SAGRADO: Crispy Sweet Corn Polenta Anasazi bean medley, fried kale, salsa verde. HHANDR.COM

53


Life After Dusk MEMORIES ARE MADE WITH CULTURE AND CRAFT COCKTAILS. By Susan Moore

Level 5 (Albuquerque) Level 5 at Hotel Chaco offers stunning views of the city and the Sandia Mountains at dusk.

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE A GREAT NIGHT OUT —under the stars, dancing, or enjoying a quiet conversation—to cap off a fantastic vacation. And the lounges at Heritage Hotels & Resorts in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Taos and Las Cruces offer the settings for those memorable nights. From outdoor and rooftop lounges to the latest dance hits, your perfect night out awaits. As the sun sets and day turns into a beautiful night, Level 5, atop Albuquerque’s Hotel Chaco, is where you want to be. You’ll want to share the incredible view with your partner when the deep pink hues in the western sky are mirrored by the color of the Sandia Mountains to the east. A moonlit and starry sky above, the soft glow from the restaurant’s 54

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Tablao Flamenco Albuquerque The beauty and passion of flamenco comes alive in this theater.

outdoor fire pits and the beautiful, clean flavors on the plate and in your glass draw you closer together. Prepare to be mesmerized at the Tablao Flamenco Albuquerque, inside Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town, just down the block from Hotel Chaco. This genuine tablao—an intimate space dedicated to the performance of improvisational flamenco dance—hosts flamenco artists from New Mexico and around the world in partnership with the Albuquerque-based National Institute of Flamenco. The tablao’s aesthetic features rough interiors paired with vibrantly Spanish expressions designed by Heritage Hotels & Resorts’ interior designer Adriana Long. Its tempting menu includes authentic Sevillan tapas and regionally inspired fine wines and spirits, the list of which was born of a collaboration between chef Mark Miller of Santa Fe’s Coyote Café and Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town, and Hotel Chaco Executive Chef Gilbert Aragon. Each June, the tablao hosts a not-to-be-missed week of late night performances that are part of the city-wide Festival Flamenco, a world-class dance festival that attracts artists and visitors from around the world. The elite lounge Casa Esencia, at Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town, combines the sophisticated elegance of contemporary decor with the latest, hottest DJ dance and club music for an unforgettable night that’s high on style. The multi-room hacienda, which dates to the 18th century, is complete with elegant contemporary high-end furnishing and custom artwork. And for those pleasant New Mexico evenings, there's a picturesque courtyard. Located within Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town, QBar Lounge offers a playful yet secluded spot to meet friends, enjoy the hottest beats and dance Salsa (including lessons on Thursdays). QBar’s décor features larger-than-life modernist sculptures of faces by acclaimed Mexican artist Yuri Zatarain. The clustered seating and lush drapery give the spot a secluded vibe, perfect for a night out.

Above: Casa Esencia (Albuquerque) Friday nights were made for Casa Esencia, the historic hacienda-turnedclub at Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town. Left: QBar (Albuquerque) QBar, the hottest club in Albuquerque (located within Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town) combines bold-colored plush furnishings and unique décor with creative craft cocktails.

HHANDR.COM

55


Low n’ Slow Lowrider Bar (Santa Fe) Bold colors and chrome are signature elements of the popular Low ‘n Slow Lowrider Bar, located within Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe.

Secreto Lounge (Santa Fe) Tucked inside historic Hotel St. Francis in the heart of Santa Fe, Secreto Lounge invites an intimate date night.

Albuquerque LEVEL 5 AT HOTEL CHACO 2000 Bellamah Ave. NW, 505-246-9989, HotelChaco.com TABLAO FLAMENCO, CASA ESENCIA & QBAR AT HOTEL ALBUQUERQUE 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, 505-843-6300, HotelAbq.com

Santa Fe LOW ‘N’ SLOW LOWRIDER BAR AT HOTEL CHIMAYO 125 Washington Ave., 505-988-4900, HotelChimayo.com SECRETO LOUNGE AT ST. FRANCIS 210 Don Gaspar Ave., 505-983-5700, HotelStFrancis.com LIVING ROOM AT INN AND SPA AT LORETTO 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-988-5531 AGAVE LOUNGE AND CAVA SANTA FE AT ELDORADO HOTEL & SPA 309 W. San Francisco St., 505-988-4455

Taos ANACONDA BAR AT EL MONTE SAGRADO 317 Kit Carson Rd., 505-758-3502, ElMonteSagrado.com

Las Cruces AZUL AT HOTEL ENCANTO DE LAS CRUCES 705 South Telshor Blvd., 575-522-4300, HotelEncanto.com 56

WINTER/SPRING 2018


Anaconda Bar (Taos) Visit the Anaconda Bar at El Monte Sagrado Living Resort & Spa in Taos for the start of a wonderful evening.

Behind stylized iron gates that allure with the promise of what lies beyond, soft candlelight glows off the stone walls of Secreto Lounge at Hotel St. Francis in Santa Fe. The Low ‘n Slow Lowrider Bar, located within Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe, celebrates the unique personality and true artistry of the lowrider culture of Northern New Mexico. Like the ambiance, playful craft cocktails at this bar are far from ordinary. If you’re looking for a dining experience, cozy up in front of the fireplace at The Living Room, located inside the iconic Inn and Spa at Loretto, or stop into Eldorado Hotel & Spa’s vibrant AGAVE Lounge. Both serve creative cuisine in a sociable environment. Eldorado’s CAVA Santa Fe Lounge features shareable dishes that reference Spain’s Basque region and Old World wines. The glow from the lighting shaped like an anaconda across the ceiling and above the bar, and movements of tropical fish behind the bar add surprising and playful elements to the Anaconda Bar at El Monte Sagrado Living Resort and Spa. Shared plates, craft beer, and cocktails delight the palate at this Taos favorite. Luxurious and posh décor of plush color-popping couches, stone carvings, and candelabras at Azul at Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces set the scene for a markthe-calendar night out. The ambiance of seclusion continues indoors, where the hottest sounds ignite the need to dance.

Azul Ultra Lounge (Las Cruces) Day slips seamlessly into night at Azul Ultra Lounge at Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces.

HHANDR.COM

57


Tess Coats started her business in an Airstream trailer; now she’s set up shop in the Sawmill district in Albuquerque.

MATT AND TISH PHOTOGRAPHY

New Life for an Old Sawmill A one-of-a-kind retail store adds flare to the neighborhood. By Ashley M. Biggers

F

OR MORE THAN A CENTURY, Albuquerque’s Sawmill District was the city’s lumber production center. Now, the neighborhood just north of Old Town is gradually evolving into a dining and shopping destination. Spur Line Supply Co., just across the street from Hotel Chaco, is the latest addition. Concept retail stores similar to Spur Line Supply Co. are usually found in major international destinations such Paris, London, and Madrid but rarely in smaller cities. In the Sawmill District, Heritage Hotels & Resorts envisioned a retail store as part of a neighborhood redevelopment plan and partnered with Spur Line to create a lifestyle concept shop that is the first of its kind in New Mexico. The vision was handiwork of owner/operator Tess Coats. The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising grad developed Spectacle Caravan, a vintage Airstream-turned-store, two years ago. Spur Line Supply Co. has expanded the mobile shop’s vibe with an emphasis on local makers and tastemakers like Ashley Arabian, the owner of Wanderer, who chooses the bohemian clothing for her shop in Spur Line. “I’m most excited about being able to have this wide-open floor plan and fill it with products I’ve been loving

58

WINTER/SPRING 2018

for so long,” Coats says. She aims for Spur Line Supply Co., open since September, to be a true shopping destination. A macramé installation from Rope & Root drapes over the central shop floor, and reclaimed wood art displays by Lance McGoldrick, a contributing artist to Santa Fe’s Meow Wolf, set the artistic tone for the space. This isn’t just somewhere to shop; it’s a place to linger over a decadent treat from Bristol Doughnut Co., or a cookie from Alchemy Confections Co. A handful of shops from local vendors wrap around the perimeter. Visitors can create their own bouquets with blooms from Floriography or spin some tunes from Hi-Phy Records. The men’s shop features wallets and jewelry from local Aaron Boyd of Tres Cuervos Leatherworks. In the kid’s shop, named Luna y Luz after Coats’ daughters, shoppers can pick up a purple stegosaurus onesie from Baby Blastoff, a locally grown kids apparel company; and make a complete gift with a quippy card from the Power & Light Press, an import from Silver City, New Mexico. Even with more square footage, Coats hasn’t forgotten about Spectacle Caravan. In fact, it’s parked in the store, surrounded by succulents and home items, from coffee-table books to jewelry, reflecting Coats’ distinctive and impeccable taste.


Heritage Inspirations Immersive Cultural & Active Guided Tours Chaco Canyon Tours | Taos Day Tours | Santa Fe Day Tours Custom & Private Tours from Santa Fe to Taos

575.779.5516 | HeritageInspirations.com


de la Tierra

CULTURALLY DISTINCT RESTAURANTS New Mexico is world renowned for exquisite culinary offerings.

at El Monte Sagrado 317 Kit Carson Rd. Taos, NM 575.758.3502 • ElMonteSagrado.com Enjoy a taste of the local, seasonal flavors that make the region unique. De la Tierra's menu features healthier options including vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free.

Estevan at Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe 125 Washington Ave. Santa Fe, NM 505.930.5363 • EstevanRestaurante.com Estevan Restaurante is New Mexican fusion with a French flare, where Chef Estevan Garcia has created a menu using favorite traditional Northern New Mexico dishes including Chimayo red chile, chicos, posole, and calabacitas. All items are organic and locally bought.

60

WINTER/SPRING 2018

GARDUÑO'S AT HOTEL ENCANTO DE LAS CRUCES


Luminaria

Tabla de los Santos

agave

at Inn and Spa at Loretto 211 Old Santa Fe Trail Santa Fe, NM 505.988.5531 • HotelLoretto.com

at Hotel St. Francis 210 Don Gaspar Ave. Santa Fe, NM 505.983.5700 • HotelStFrancis.com

at Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco St. Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4455 • EldoradoHotel.com

Luminaria Restaurant and Patio is recognized

Tabla de Los Santos is one of the top

Enter a world of celebrated culinary delight

by locals and visitors alike for

restaurants in Santa Fe. Organic, farm-to-table

and libations at the AGAVE Lounge.

its tranquil, inviting setting and inventive, globally

ingredients prepared with meticulous care

This Santa Fe lounge features a menu

inspired menu. We invite you to dine and discover

have made this restaurant a destination

of shared plates, specialty cocktails

the flavors of Santa Fe.

for Santa Fe dining.

and an extensive wine-by-the-glass program.

Level5

Garduños

Garduños

at Hotel Chaco 2000 Bellamah Ave. NW Albuquerque, NM 505.247.0708 • HotelChaco.com

at Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW Albuquerque, NM 505.843.6300 • HotelABQ.com

at Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces 705 S. Telshor Blvd. Las Cruces, NM 575.522.4300 • HotelEncanto.com

Enjoy beautifully layered flavors and

Enjoy authentic regional New Mexican

Savor the distinctive flavors of Southwestern

outstanding panoramic mountain views

and Mexican cuisine in the inviting

cuisine during your Las Cruces visit. Delight in

at Level 5, the rooftop restaurant and lounge

hacienda-style interior or the lush outdoor garden

traditional New Mexican and Mexican favorites

at Hotel Chaco. Savor craft cocktails

patio. Garduño's offers an extensive selection of

and modern twists on the classics at our own

& an unforgettable culinary journey.

tequila, wine, liqueurs, and world-class margaritas.

Garduño's of Mexico Restaurant & Cantina. . HHANDR.COM

61


Hotel Chaco

CULTURALLY DISTINCT NEW MEXICO HOTELS

2000 Bellamah Ave. NW Albuquerque, NM 505.247.0708 • HotelChaco.com This brand-new hotel is a contrast of ancient

Each of our hotels and resorts in New Mexico celebrates the rich, multicultural heritage of the Southwest, drawing from its unique blend of Native American, Mexican, Spanish, and Western cultural and historical influences. Through architecture, interior design, original artwork, landscaping, entertainment, and cuisine, Heritage Hotels & Resorts provides guests with an authentic cultural experience in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Taos, and Las Cruces.

and modern elements. Hotel Chaco is the first New Mexico property designed by legendary global design firm Gensler, which drew inspiration from the Anasazi people and the ruins of Chaco Canyon.

CONNECT WITH US @HeritageHotelsandResorts @HeritageHtls HeritageHtlsandRsts @heritagehtls @heritagehtls newmexicotravelblog.com

Heritage Hotels & Resorts, Inc. 201 Third St. NW, Suite 1140 Albuquerque, NM 87102 HHandR.com Email: contactus@hhandr.com


El Monte Sagrado

Eldorado Hotel & Spa

Inn and Spa at Loretto

317 Kit Carson Rd. Taos, NM 575.758.3502 • ElMonteSagrado.com

309 W. San Francisco St. Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4455 • EldoradoHotel.com

211 Old Santa Fe Trail Santa Fe, NM 505.988.5531• HotelLoretto.com

Offering the best accommodations in Taos,

One of the premier Santa Fe hotels, Eldorado

This iconic Santa Fe property is just steps away

this luxury resort features the eco-conscious

Hotel & Spa is conveniently located near the

from the historic Santa Fe Plaza. Reflecting the art

award-winning Living Spa and exquisite indoor

historic Santa Fe Plaza. Guests experience

and soul of Santa Fe, the architecture is modeled

and outdoor event, meeting and wedding

luxury amenities including an on-site restaurant

after Taos Pueblo and the property features an

facilities. El Monte Sagrado is located just steps

and bars, rooftop pool, world-class Nidah Spa,

award-winning spa, outdoor pool and Santa Fe’s

from the Taos Plaza but surrounded by nature.

and more than 22,000 square feet of indoor

only penthouse suite. The hotel has 12,000 square

and outdoor event space.

feet of meeting and event space.

Hotel St. Francis 210 Don Gaspar Ave. Santa Fe, NM 505.983.5700 • HotelStFrancis.com

Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe

Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town

125 Washington Ave. Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4900 • HotelChimayo.com

This boutique historic hotel embodies the spirit

A boutique hotel in the heart of downtown, Hotel

800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW Albuquerque, NM 505.843.6300 • HotelABQ.com

of old Santa Fe and is named for the city’s patron

Chimayo is conveniently located a half block

Offering historic grandeur and comfort,

saint. The décor features authentic wood furniture

from the historic Santa Fe Plaza and celebrates

Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town exemplifies

hand-crafted by local artisans. It also features

the magical culture of Chimayó, a distinctive

Albuquerque style, with an on-site restaurant and

Tabla de los Santos restaurant, Secreto Lounge

Northern New Mexico town on the High Road to

bars, outdoor swimming pool, romantic wedding

and Gruet tasting room. Hotel St. Francis is listed

Taos.The hotel features the Low ‘n Slow Lowrider

chapel, and more than 62,000 square feet of

on the National Register of Historic Places and

Bar and Estevan Restaurant on site.

indoor and outdoor meeting and event space.

sits just one block from the Santa Fe Plaza.

.

.

HHANDR.COM

63


Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces 705 S. Telshor Blvd. Las Cruces, NM 575.522.4300 • HotelEncanto.com A unique hotel that reflects New Mexico’s Spanish and Colonial traditions, Hotel Encanto has a beautiful resort pool lined with palm trees and 35,000 square feet of meeting and event space. Hotel Encanto features Garduños Mexican

EXPERIENCE VALUE AT OUR LODGES

Restaurant & Cantina and Azul Ultralounge.

Palacio de Marquesa 405 Cordoba Rd. Taos, NM 575.758.4777 • MarquesaTaos.com The boutique hotel Palacio de Marquesa is conveniently located near the historic Taos Plaza.The design pays tribute to the remarkable women artists of Taos. This inn offers custom made-to-order daily breakfast.

64

WINTER/SPRING 2018

Nativo Lodge

Lodge at Santa Fe

6000 Pan American Fwy. NE Albuquerque, NM 505.798.4300 • NativoLodge.com

750 N. St. Francis Dr. Santa Fe, NM 505.992.5800 • LodgeAtSantaFe.com

Inspired by the vibrancy of Native American

On a hilltop overlooking downtown, the Lodge at

culture and traditions, Nativo Lodge features

Santa Fe is just five minutes from the Santa Fe

contemporary artist rooms that provide the

Plaza and minutes from Ski Santa Fe and the

uniquely memorable experience of living amid

Santa Fe Opera. Experience rooms furnished in

large-scale installation Native art.

custom Southwest décor, with an outdoor pool on site and beautiful mountain views.


ELDORADO HOTEL & SPA 309 W. SAN FRANCISCO ST., SANTA FE 505.988.4455 ELDORADOHOTEL.COM

Luxury meets History, Culture & Design

A HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS PROPERTY


INN AND SPA AT LORETTO 211 OLD SANTA FE TRAIL, SANTA FE 505.988.5531 HOTELLORETTO.COM

The art and soul of Santa Fe

A HERITAGE HOTELS & RESORTS PROPERTY


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.