19 minute read
VII. Appendix
1.1 Comparative Shop - MANGO (UK)
Comparative Shop
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Store Details
Mango 235 Oxford St, Soho, London Thursday, February 27 12:00-12:30 PM Cloudy, windy Near other high street brands, close to Oxford Circus station
Exterior & Windows
Window displays: two small window sections showing one male mannequin and one female mannequin Entrance: huge open entrance with a display of mannequins posing on podium displays in the front of the store
Exterior and Windows aren’t really dressed, engaging, or eye-catching compared to Mango’s neighbours; Bershka, Gap, Topshop, H&M
There is only one entrance and exit which is open and staffed by a security guard located on the busy Oxford Street, however the store doesn’t generate much interest because there is minimal displays in the windows that aren’t attention grabbing
Interior & Layout
Ground Floor: women’s, accessories, committed line, “second chances” recycling box First Floor: women’s (workwear, outerwear, denim), shoes, handbags, 3D printed jewellery, fitting rooms, committed line Second Floor: men’s, kids, online collections, returns/exchanges, mango outlet, fitting rooms
Music: pop music, alternate pop Lighting: spotlighting Scent: no Atmosphere: not busy/crowded, organized and neat displays of clothing, fun and stress-free shopping experience
Customers: don’t have many items in their hands when shopping, they pick things up and put them back down, not many male shoppers, not many customers on first and second floor but more on the ground floor
Marketing
(Mango Covent Garden) Staff wears uniforms, mainly consisting of black clothing without labels. The store seems overstaffed.
Branding on labels, tickets and carrier bags is very minimal and mainly consists of the brand logo, which is in a minimalist sans serif font on a plain, neutral background. Branding in-store is very minimal, signs and graphics are very limited. The only signage in the store is the occasional price sign. Sales are visibly marked with red labels, and mainly placed in the back of the store. There is no ecommerce. The promotion and marketing is in line with Mango’s minimal branding and aesthetic.
The Customer
(Mango Covent Garden) The customers are mainly 30/40yo women, little to no men, with the occasional college student dropping in to look around. Customers are mainly attracted to the accessories, very little interest in the actual collection.
Sunglasses, bags and jewellery are particularly popular. The more basic pieces attract some attention, but not enough for anyone to actually try anything on.
Merchandise Display
(Mango Covent Garden) Product is mainly displayed hanging from walls, coordinated by outfit or by collection. The different areas have a distinct overall look. Product gets more basic / less high fashion the more you move back into the store.
The colourful, high fashion, very trend-based product is in the Platinum zone, right when you enter. The more you move back the more basic and neutral the products become. Sale is located all the way in the back. The sustainable collection is placed somewhere in the middle, but still, strangely enough, slightly hidden away. Focal points are on mannequins, which are placed in the center of categories. There’s very little use of props and decorations.
The Product Range
Tops / jumpers / jackets / coats size range: XS, S, M, L, XL Trousers / skirts / size range: 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 The same size ranges are available both instore and online.
The ranges were generally displayed cohesively and the pieces in the same areas made ‘sense’ together. The store layout guided the customer around the different ranges.
Mango’s chosen pricing strategy included many prices ending in 0.99.
The staff were generally passive and did not approach customers to offer help. If asked by a customer for assistance, they would help, but otherwise did not initiate customer engagement.
The neutral tones and smart style seemed appropriate for the customers shopping in the store.
The website displays a much broader selection of stock, featuring some products of a brighter colour which were not evident instore.
Best Sellers Worst Sellers
Printed midi skirt, £29.99
Mom-fit jeans, £35.99
Leather biker jacket, £139.99
Essential structured blazer, £39.99
Classic cotton trench coat, £69.99 Leather heel loafers, £35.99 (originally £69.99)
Combined knitted cardigan, £15.99 (originally £19.99)
Trekking sole shoe, £35.99 (originally £59.99)
Product category
Total Number of Options by Category Fashionability Options (core/fashion/high fashion) Country of Origin Price Points
Entry Mid Exit
Jackets
102 Core: 80 Fashion: 22 High Fashion Morocco Vietnam £29.99 £59.99 £199.99
Coats
48 Core: 36 Fashion: 12 High Fashion
Italy Vietnam £49.99 £74.99 £339.99 Woven Tops 281
Jersey Tops 212
Knitted Tops 175
Bottoms
301
Skirts
66
Dresses
315
All in Ones 35
Shoes
145
Bags
187 Core: 268 Fashion: 13 High Fashion
Core: 212 Fashion High Fashion
Core: 173 Fashion: 2 High Fashion
Core: 173 Fashion: 2 High Fashion
Core: 62 Fashion: 4 High Fashion
Core: 301 Fashion: 14 High Fashion
Core: 32 Fashion: 3 High Fashion
Core: 132 Fashion: 13 High Fashion
Core: 176 Fashion: 11 High Fashion
China Vietnam Bangladesh
Egypt Portugal Myanmar £17.99 £35.99 £69.99
£6.99 £17.32 £39.99
Morocco Turkey £17.99 £29.99 £139.99
China Myanmar Vietnam £9.99 £35.99 £229.99
Turkey Pakistan £19.99 £35.99 £369.99
Vietnam Morocco £17.99 £39.99 £169.99
Vietnam Turkey £29.99 £59.99 £119.99
India Spain £19.99 £49.99 £259.99
China £12.99 £29.99 £119.99
Display Units / Options
Tops : Bottom display ratio
Total Tops / Total Bottoms = Tops-to-bottom ratio 668 / 301 = 2.2 2.2:1 (for every 2.2 tops there is 1 bottom).
No. of units displayed per option
Core: Total Core / Total Options = 1753/11 = 159.4 Fashion: Total Fashion / Total Options = 114 / 11 = 10.4 High Fashion: Total High Fashion / Total Options = 0/11 = 0
Website & Online Presence - UK
The product is first separated by different customer (Men, women, Girls, boys), and in each tabs it is divided by garment
And all products are display on model in picture. Pricing is subtle The feature of product is different from the physical store, online exclusive product are existed.
All the categories are clear enough for searching. Comparative Shop 1.2 Comparative Shop - MANGO (USA Online)
Website Details
Mango USA https://shop.mango.com/gb Wednesday, April 29th, 5:30 PM - Link to Mango USA is the first option to come up on Google with the “Ad” sign next to it - Links to ‘Women’, ‘Clothing’, ‘Dresses’, and ‘New Now’ are displayed in the search engine - Popular products are featured on the search engine with links to Mango’s social media accounts
Home Page
- Shows a slideshow with a Mother’s Day discount, women’s loungewear, men’s basics, kids SS 20 campaign - Offers a quick shop of the newest garments for women, men, boy, and girl - Can shop the hashtag #MANGOGirls - Subscription and discount of 10% off pop up page and available at the footer of the page - Links to Mango social media - Header of the page shows tabs ‘New’, ‘Women’, ‘Men’, ‘Girls’, ‘Boys’, ‘Plus Size’, ‘Edits’ and options for a search bar, to sign in, wish list, and shopping bag - Announcement of the measures they’re taking in relation to the coronavirus pandemic
Department Pages
Men - Discount of 50% for their ‘Spring Palette’ - Shows ‘New Now’ - Appeals to the male target customer by having a mix of casual and tailored looks - Very easy to search for items in the Men’s department - More studio model shots and less editorial shots of the items on the landing page
Women - Discount of 30% for Mother’s Day - Shows ‘New Now’ - Appeals to the female target customer by having fashionable and trendy looks - Very easy to search for items in the Women’s department - More studio model shots and less editorial shots of the items on the landing page
Marketing
- The site has a page explaining what the Mango app does and that it’s available for Apple Watch and on Apple
TV - Mango App: shop on the go, barcode scanner to find sizes online if you can’t find them in-store, can find nearby stores, notifies about current sales, promotions, and exclusive offers - Mango has an outlet page where you can shop last season’s styles at a discounted price - Current advertisements are for Mother’s Day and the new S/S 20 collections - Information about how Mango is adapting their services in relation to the coronavirus pandemic
Merchandise Display
- Every product in every department is featured which is different to the stores in London where the men’s department is very minimal compared to the women’s department - Product is initially displayed on models and once clicked on the product there’s an option to view on a flat surface - Pricing is displayed in bold and same font size as the description of the item - Product descriptions and details on washing instructions are available - Size guide available - Similar pieces to the product you’re currently viewing are available to shop - Options to complete the outfit with what the model is wearing in the photos plus other options to wear the item with - There’s no chat box or customer service option when shopping
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1.3 Comparative Shop - ZARA (USA Online Website, UK EDITED) Zara Comparative Shop
Website Details
Zara USA https://www.zara.com/us/ Thursday, May 7th, 9:20AM - Link to Zara USA is the first link to come up on a Google search - Links to “Woman”, “Kids”, “Man”, “Special Prices”, “New In”, “Dresses” are displayed under the Zara search heading - Social media profiles are linked in the search with background information on the company
Home Page
- Home page shows a slideshow of the new spring/summer collection for Men, Women, and Kids in an interactive scroll - Men collection is shown first with clothing, then shoes and bags, then “Stories” of the collection, then “Join Life” to learn about the clothing production and sustainability - Women collection is the second slide showing the new collection and a video of a woman wearing the clothing, then shoes and bags, then “Stories” of the collection, then “Join Life” - Kids Collection is the third slide showing “new in girls”, a collaboration with Bo & Sara Blomqvist, the collection, shoes and bags, then “Stories”, and then “Join Life” - An update on Zara’s actions being taken during the coronavirus pandemic - A newsletter sign up at the bottom of each scroll section - I found it hard to navigate the scroll because it kept on navigating to different pages when soft scrolling down, although there was a down arrow, there was no up arrow to navigate to the slide you just saw - The site made my computer overheat - Side bar shows department pages - Offers accessibility navigation at the footer and a help section at the header
Department Pages
Men - No general landing page, you have to click on a section of “New In”, “Campaign”, “Collection”, or “Stories” - New In page shows editorial photos of the spring/summer collection mixed with some flat/cut-out shots of the items, some still life shots of shoes and bags - Some videos of the items on models in movement - Can shop all of their collections in one scroll under “New In” - Very easy to search for specific items with a search bar in the header of every page
Women - No general landing page, you have to click on a section of “New In”, “Campaign”, “Collection”, or “Stories” - New In page shows editorial photos of the spring/summer collection mixed with flat/cut-out shots of the items - Can shop all of their collections in one scroll under “New In”
- Very easy to search for specific items with a search bar in the header of every page - No favorites or wishlist
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Marketing
- There is a whole page of showing how Zara is becoming more sustainable and transparent - Discounted items are called “Special Prices” instead of sale or outlet - Current advertisements are for their spring summer collection for men, women, and kids and how they are adapting to the global coronavirus pandemic - no application but they link their social media sites at the footer of the home page
Merchandise Display
- Every product of the collection is shown in an editorial shot - Product pages can be shopped through outfit building, if you click on an item you can immediately buy the items worn in the product photos on the model and even click on the individual items - Product is displayed on models and when you select the item to add to your cart, they’re displayed in flats - Product description available and once clicked on the individual items the composition and care instructions are available as well as a size guide based on your personal height, weight, and fit preference - Shows options to wear the item with and similar products - Pricing is a subheading to the name of the product which is in bold - Customer service chat available
The Product Range
Women’s Shirts: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Men’s Shirts: S, M, L, XL
Women’s Jeans/shorts: 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 Men’s Jeans: 30, 31, 32, 34, 36
Women’s Pants/skirts: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Men’s Pants/shorts: XS, S, M, L, XL
All pricing ends in .90 cents
Best Sellers (Based on Zara USA’s current “Best Sellers” page, in USD)
WOMEN: - White colored items - Summer dresses - Blouses - Straight Leg, Mom fit, loose fitting jeans - Sandals
($89.90) ($39.90) ($49.90)
MEN: - Skinny Jeans (mainly white colored) - Printed shirts - Sneakers - Basic Tshirts and sweatshirts WOMEN: - Mostly accessories- shoes and bags
(£15.99, originally £29.99) (£19.99, originally £39.99)
(£25.99, originally £39.99)
MEN:
(£49.99, originally £59.99) (£12.99, originally £19.99)
Worst Sellers (Based on EDITED currently discounted items, in GBP)
($39.90) ($49.90) ($49.90)
Product category
Total Number of Options by Category
Fashionability Options (core/fashion/high fashion)
Jackets
Coats
M: 251 W: 237
M: 92 W: 101 M: 185 (Core) 56 (Fashion) 10 (High Fashion) W: 193 (Core) 42 (Fashion) 2 (High Fashion)
M: 41 (Core) 48 (Fashion) 3 (High Fashion) W: 56 (Core) 35 (Fashion) 10 (High Fashion) (£29.99, originally £49.99)
Country of Origin
(Check Care label)
N/A Online Price Points
Entry (Lowest)
M/W: £15.99
Mid (Mid Point)
M/W: £49.99
Exit (Highest)
M: £179.00 W: £239.00
“ ” M/W: £15.99 M: £69.99 W: £59.99 M: £179.00 W: £399.00
Woven Tops
Jersey Tops
Knitted Tops
M: 12 W: 1
M: 107 W: 60
M: 14 W: 23 M: 9 (Core) 3 (Fashion) W: 1 (Fashion)
M: 93 (Core) 14 (Fashion) W: 59 (Core) 1 (Fashion)
M: 12 (Core) 2 (Fashion) W: 23 (Core) “ ” M: £19.99 W: £49.99 M: £25.99 W: £49.99
“ ” M: £21.66 W: £12.99 M: £25.32 W: £16.59
“ ” M: £19.99 W: £12.99 M: £27.99 W: £25.99 M: £89.99 W: £49.99
M: £33.66 W: £31.99
M: £89.99 W: £49.99
Bottoms
M: 74 W: 70 M: 74 (Core) W: 62 (Core) 8 (Fashion)
Swimwear W: 5 W: 5 (Core)
Skirts
W: 13 W: 10 (Core) 3 (Fashion)
Dresses
W:54 W: 41 (Core) 11 (Fashion) 2 (High Fashion) “ ” M: £18.39 W: £12.99 M: £30.79 W: £25.29 M: £53.19 W: £69.99
“ ” W: £12.99 W: £14.79 W: £15.99
“ ” W: £25.99 W: £29.99 W: £89.99
“ ” W: £12.99 W: £39.99 W: £119.00
All in Ones
W: 4 W: 4 (Core) “ ” W: £19.99 W: £39.99 W: £49.99
Other (Footwear & Accessories)
M: 53 W: 86 M: 46 (Core) 4 (Fashion) 4 (High Fashion) W: 82 (Core) 1 (Fashion) 3 (High Fashion) “ ” M: £17.99 W: £12.99 M: £37.99 W: £28.99 M: £134.00 W: £124.50
May 7, 2020 Data from: https://app.edited.com/#market/dashboard/413851/401533?analysis_view=strategy&brands=zara&dropped_da te_range=month&gender=men%2Cwomen&market=UK&price_type=current&primary_pivot=default&secondar y_pivot=gender&vertical=apparel&view=analysis
1.4 Customer Survey - 62 Respondents https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DZ8PKSW
What is your gender?
Female - 80.65% (50) Male - 19.35% (12)
What is your age?
Under 18 - 3.23% (2) 18-24 - 90.32% (56) 25-34 - 4.84% (3) 35-44 - 1.61% (1)
What is you shopping preference?
How often do you shop at Mango?
Once a week - 1.61% (1) A few times a month - 1.61% (1) Once or a few times a year - 35.48% (22) I don’t shop at Mango - 61.29% (38)
If you shop at Mango, what do you usually buy? (Select all that apply)
Basics/Loungewear - 19.35% (12) Workwear - 11.29% (7) Occasion wear - 8.06% (5) Outerwear - 11.29% (7) Accessories - 9.68% (6) Denim - 6.45% (4) I don’t shop at Mango - 59.68% (37) If you shop menswear, what do you think most ranges are missing? (ex: graphics, more colors, etc.)
Responses included (in order of most answered to least) more colors, graphics, more options, more trends, balance between streetwear and chic casual menswear, more colors, more fun, groovy patterns - stuf for teens/early 20s
What other stores do you shop at? (Select all that apply)
H&M - 54.84% (34) Zara - 72.58% (45) The Gap - 14.52% (9) Bershka - 24.19% (15) Pull & Bear - 9.68% (6) & Other Stories - 41.94% (26) Other - 27.42% (17) “Other” responses included Topshop, Monki, vintage shops, Uniqlo, Urban Outfitters, Nike, Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Madewell, Arket, Cos, Anthropologie
How much do you know about Mango’s current sustainability approach? (Select all that apply)
‘Committed’ product range - 14.52% (9) 3D printed jewelry range - 6.45% (4) ‘Take Action’ program - 11.29% (7) ‘Second Chances’ recycled clothing drop box - 14.52% (9) I was unaware of any of these initiatives - 77.42% (48)
How important is sustainability to you when purchasing from stores/ brands? (10 being the most important factor)
Average response was 6 after all respondents answered on a scale from 1-10
Are you more likely to invest in items that are made sustainably?
1.5 Mango’s Current Sustainability Approach
BSc (Hons) Fashion Management/MSc Strategic Fashion Management: Year 1
Student Name: Emily Freund
Retailer: Mango
What is the current sustainability approach & practices of your retailer?
- 3D printed jewelry made from sustainable materials such as biodegradable plant-based plastics, woods, and ceramics - Committed line: a womenswear line featuring pieces responsible with environmental sustainability, reducing the impact on our environment – produced in nearby countries (reduce emissions) - “Take Action” program with sustainable actions directed to improve processes & work environment – goal: 50% cotton used in collections sustainable origin by 2022 - Better Cotton Initiatives = organic cotton, recycled cotton - 25% reduction of water consumption in denim production
How does your retailer score on the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index?
Overall: 18% 1. Policy & Commitments 58% 2. Governance 25% 3. Traceability 0% 4. Know, Show & Fix 9% 5. Spotlight Issues 21%
What do the rankings tell you about the retailer’s approach to sustainability?
Mango definitely has room for improvement in their transparency of disclosing their factories, processing facilities, and raw material suppliers
Do you agree with the rankings? Why?
Yes, I found it hard to discover details about Mango’s sustainable practices within the brand relating to their supply chain of sourcing, production, manufacturing, and distribution.
List the most common fabric/material scores/country of origin by product category of your retailer.
Product Category Most Common HIGG Score (%) Made-By Score (A – Country of Origin Material/Fabric E, unclassified)
Outerwear (coats & jackets) Polyester 44 D
Cotton 98 (organic: 49) E (organic: B) Cambodia
Dresses Viscose Acrylic 62 52 E E Mongolia
Cotton 98 E Pakistan
Bralettes Elastane 44 E
Does you retailer have any of the following sustainability certifications? Add date joined if known
BCI – Better Cotton Initiative 2018 Bluesign Cradle to Cradle Fair Trade GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard 2018 Global Recycle Standard 2018 Good Weave Made By OE-100 Oeko-Tex SAAS – Social Accountability Accreditation Services SCS Certification USDA Certified Organic Zque – Merino Fibre WFTO – World Fair Trade Organization Fair Wear Foundation Two Organic Standard Certifications ETI – Ethical Trading Initiative B Corporation – Certified B Sourcemap Cotton Made in Africa Responsible Down Standard Responsible Wool Standard PETA – People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals 2018 Fashion Revolution Sustainable Apparel Coalition 2020 HIGG Index Ecolabel Index Outdoor Industry Association ACT – Action, Collaboration, Transformation Textile Exchange SEDEX – empowering responsible supply chain 2018 Amfori – sustainable trade 2017 Fashion Pact 2019
How does the retailer’s current sustainability approach relate to Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible consumption and production, ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns?
- Mango offers customers to donate clothing and shoes to be recycled - Signed up for the organic content standard, recycled contents standard, and the better cotton initiative - Training of the sustainable development goals
Using the ‘Apparel Entrepreneurships’ 9 Steps to a Sustainable Brand as a guide; how do you intend to develop this approach to deliver SDG12 through your innovative product range plan proposal?
Mindset and Awareness - Honesty about where their recycled clothing goes and what happens to them - Transparency about the sourcing of materials, production process, and the factory operations - Awareness of more sustainable practices - Committing to achieving some sustainable development goals
Innovative Idea and Customer Need
Design and Collection
Sustainable Materials
Ethical Manufacturing
Logistics - Educating consumers on sustainability and what this product range is doing for it - USP: dry-dyed clothing made out of durable fabrics - Small range of clothing, bought through preorders to minimize mass production and mass consumption of the clothing - There’s a need for this product range to raise awareness of the harmful production and consumption habits the fashion industry - Designs will be in line with the contemporary Mediterranean designs Mango already does but with a completely sustainable process - Designs are made out of organic and recycled fabrics that can be broken down to new fibers for new clothes to be made into - Have a younger generational approach - Color palette includes greens, blues, and natural colors - Recycled Cotton: Evrnu’s approach to recycling cotton from cotton tshirts –
NuCycl - Air-Dyeing technology - Recycled/organic cotton, recycled nylon, recycled polyester, viscose, rayon - Evrnu is a manufacturer of recycled materials with durability - Sourcing through ethical and sustainable factories with workers who are paid fairly and have basic worker’s rights
- This line will have a smaller amount of items than Mango’s usual ranges and pre-orders will take place to know how much of the range will initially be made
Product Care and After Life
Certifications
- Clothing can be recycled through the already implemented recycling drop box and any clothing that can’t be donated will be stripped to recyclable materials and given to manufacturers to reuse - Textile Exchange inspires and allows manufacturers, retailers and brands, suppliers, and farmers to become more sustainable in textile sourcing and use - Collaboration with Fashion Revolution to create a more transparent supply chain - The collaboration with Fashion Revolution will educate consumers on who is Education making their clothing and where the suppliers are from - Educating consumers on the entire recycling process of the clothing they donate
How does your innovative product range deliver SDG12 whilst supporting the business in:
- Having preorders reduces mass production and a limited amount of in-store merchandise reduces mass consumption - Sustainably sourced raw materials and production processes promote responsible production
Driving Growth - Developing the menswear sustainable line which isn’t the focus of the brand in the current product range
Customer Engagement
Market Share - Customer’s will be engaged by learning about how to be more circular and responsible in their purchasing habits through purchasing less, purchasing more sustainable, and recycling old clothing - Penetrating the market through product development of the menswear sustainable clothing range that isn’t included in their Committed line
