Emily May Butcher
-bringing something into existence. - generate / produce / design / fabricate. - fashion / build / construct. - cause something to happen as a result of ones actions. power / honor / frame / wealth.
- the action of making known ones thoughts or feelings. - the conveying of feelings in a work of art. - a look or emotion of someones face.
ambition to create novel expression. - an earnest desire for some type of achievement. - state or result desired or sought after. - goal / aim / wish / plan. - drive / determination / commitment.
- a fictious prose narrative of book length typically representing character and action with some degree of realism. - novella staria = new story. -interesting new or unusual. - new / original / unfamiliar / unconventional. - unorthodox / different / creative / modern / pioneering.
- examples of ideas: giving birth / developing skins / growing hair / cooking / building and construction / growing up / 2D to 3D transformation.
- building and architecture is a massive inspiration interest of Jonny Johanssons, creative director of ACNE.
bringing something into existence. - bringing something into existence links in with Acne Studios way of working in the sense that the company puts all their effort into forming their ideas into an art expression.
- this topic of bringing something into existence has allowed me to explore the inspirations that help shape the company. Aswell as what brings in the strong sense of Swedish history that is involved due to the brand and CEO being Scandinavian.
d+ project topic.
final collection.
a collection inspired by swedish architecture, formed from the background of acne studios.
design focus: length and layering.
designs focus: rounded shapes + sharp diagonals.
design focus: multiply layers.
designs focus: pockets + necklines.
techincal sketches for final collection.
These are my techincal sketches for my final collection for my D+ project. I used Kaledo to created the outfits and add small details such as the fastenings, stitching and fit of the garments. Techincal sketches show you the key details of the clothing and explain the construction of the garment and are also used for range plans which is a line up of the collection with the chosen colours, fabrics and season in which it was created for.
detailed techincal sketch: front and back of chosen garment.
After having a group dicussion about my designs, it was chosen that the garment I would make out of my final collection would be a mens lightweight sleeveless shirt with overlaying panels and a large patch pocket. In the process to make the pattern for my garment, I created a detailed techincal sketch which displayed all the important information such as the fit of the garment, the length of the panels and the sizing of the pockets compared to the rest of shirt to give a sense of the propotion.
First garment pattern: Mens sleeveless shirt with panels and pocket.
The next step I took was to use fashion tape and a mens mannequin to measure out on the body space where I wanted my panels and the hem line to sit on the body, recording down all the measurements to put into Modaris. After I had got all the measurements for the arm hole, panels and garment length, I found a mens shirt block to adapt to how I needed it to be in Modaris. From the block, I lengthed the front and back pieces along with creating a Grandad collar, a button wrap and the two sized panels all through measuring the block pattern pieces, adding points and lines to then cut the pieces from. I didn’t face any problems when building my pattern on Modaris but I did come across errors when trying to print the pattern after creating the markers. This error message was called ‘paper:095’ and displayed that it had a problem with the front pattern piece. To solve this issue, I looked over all pieces in Modaris and then went through and renamed all my files for the pattern and markers, making sure none of the names had spaces in. This solved the error and my first shirt pattern printed well.
Paper marker.
A marker is created by using a variant of a pattern made in Modrais. This is my paper marker of my first pattern created for my mens sleevless shirt that I created from a mens shirt block. Markers are made so all the pattern pieces are placed in the economical way for printing, giving you high efficiency.
fabric markers.
These fabric markers were created in the same way as the paper makers; through seperatley made variants in Modaris but serve a different purpose. With my fabric markers, I had to make to two different ones due to different pattern pieces being different materials, some denim and some space mesh. Therefore two markers were needed so I could see how much of each farbic would be needed for my final garment.
Testing the fit of the garment is a very important process and can tell you a lot about the patten it is made from. This process can be done using Modaris and 3D software, where your pattern is connected and placed onto the mannequin. From this you can view how the garment will sit and look on the body without even having to print. It was important to me to see how the main pieces of the garment; the front and the back would fit the body as these were the main pieces that build the frame for the garment. I connected my front, back and button wrap pieces together by using the ‘desk of stitches’ tool within Modaris were I stitch each seam together, for example the shoulders, and the side seams so the garment would be connected in the right places. I then added split points to the pattern pieces which are indicators to tell the software which opening goes to which part of the body when placing the garment on the 3D model, for example, the neck line, arm holes and right or left waist.
I was very pleased with how my pattern looked on the 3D model, I felt that the garment hung smoothly and had the straight cut look that I was looking to achieve. I was worried at first about the length of the garment, however looking on the 3D model at all angles, I learnt that the shirt finished at a comfortable place meaning that the pocket would sit at a similar place to the bodies hand, making the use easy. The neckline was a focus point of me as well, I wanted to check how far up the neck the neckline sat on the body as my Grandad collar would be short in height but be fastening around the neck. Therefore I needed to check where the neck would sit to assure a comfortable fit when fastened.
Once I had created my first toile from the pattern I had made on Modaris, I had a toile review where we dicussed the fit, the look, material choices and any changes that needed to be made to the construction. It was finalised that I would adjust the fit by dropping the arm holes by 2cm to leave room to layer clothing underneath. As well as added two invisible pockets, a yoke and using interfacing within the collar and button wrap.
Images of my model wearing my first toile of my design for my review. These images show how clean and straight cut the garment is on my model with enough room in the back for movement and layering. Through the length of the garment and panels, I could see how putting two invisible pockets on the right side of the garment would work ergonomically to the body. Also viewing the toile on a body, I could visualise where abouts the yoke could go and what measurement would work well with the design, shown in the third image.
Techincal Sketch: New design: front, back + details.
2nd Modaris pattern: New pattern with added yoke, invisible pocket and interfacing pattern pieces for collar and button wrap.
evaluating construction.
Due to a few problems and changes happening to my final garment, I wanted to document and evaluate how I tried to solve these construction challenges. On the center front of the garment, on the left side there is a pin hole mark made from pinning the layers of fabric together. On the right side of the button wrap, there is a pull in the fabric due to the thickness of the layers g oing into the button stand. To try and resolve this, I unpicked the stitches and tried to ease out the fabric however, there was a fold in the fabric let from where the tuck had been stitched down but the tuck is a lot better than perviously.
challenges and resolvutions.
Another problem, similar to the pin hole in the sense that I couldn’t solve it that well was a stain on the under side of the right hand side panel. The blue denim had marked the white space mesh and left a circular stain which I tried to wash out, however it did not fade at all. The last problem that I faced was a cut in the fabric on the yoke. I noticed this cut after I had constructed the garment after it had been hanging up ready to press for a photoshoot therefore I thought it may have been a small cut in the fabric and then made worst from hanging. To try and resolve this, I hand stitch from the back and tried to catch the ripped fabric to close the gap.
Final garment: Mens sleeveles shirt with layered panels, invisible pockets and popper fastening.
I teamed up and collaborated with two photography students to complete a photoshoot of my final garment in a style that would fit my chosen company Acne and my project background. I choose to shoot my final garment in a ‘still’ style so I could adapt them into a publication and garment tag to give information to the customer about the inspiration, details and ideas of how to present the garment in their own way.