Ishikawa Traditional food, served in an exceptional way
by Emma Molley
ishikawa A Japanese masterclass in simplicity, style and substance
Located directly behind the Bishamonten Temple, the black timber-clad building that houses sleek restaurant Ishikawa has itself become a shrine for diners seeking exquisite Japanese cooking in unpretentious surroundings. Kagurazaka was once famed for its geisha girls and here the tradition is being kept alive with the restaurant’s kimono-clad waitresses padding silently between its four private dining rooms. For a more interactive and less formal experience, guests can also choose to sit at the seven-seat counter, made from cypress wood taken from a temple-felled tree, and watch chef Hideki Ishikawa at work preparing the day’s kaiseki menu. The food at this three-Michelin starred restaurant is as refined yet restrained as its softly-lit, wooden interior, with Ishikawa focusing on a number of key ingredients for each dish and sticking to time-honoured cooking techniques. Diners don’t get to choose what to eat, but rather are presented with a procession of courses that typically include an appetiser, soup and sashimi before moving on to larger dishes cooked on the grill. Matching flights of interesting sake are also served on request. The result is a relaxed and humbling experience, with dishes served on ages-old crockery that speak of Japan’s rich history. A meal for the memory-banks, for sure.
exceptional service.
“Fantastic from beginning to end”
5 “of 5 starsReviewed 27 February 2015 An absolutely fantastic meal. Easily one of the best I’ve ever had. The meal consisted of nine courses following a traditional keiseiki order. Each of them were delicate, delicious, and beautifully presented. Absolutely fabulous. The grated white radish sauce was outstanding. My favorite was the delicacy course, which was spanish mackerel with broad beans and mashed taro. I was not expecting much, But what a combination of flavors here. This dish seemed to be extremely elevated comfort food with its warm and inviting flavors. The only disappointing thing was that I couldn’t have a few more servings of the dish. The entire service was fantastic. The chef spoke some English and was very friendly. He seemed truly excited that we came from so far away to eat at his restaurant. We even had a menu printed out in English with our name on it. Also, we got the traditional Japanese send off with the chef and others from the restaurant seeing us off in the taxi.
WVisited February 2015”
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