"DO YOU THINK THEY LIKE TECHNO AYE?":AN INVESTIGATION INTO THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN FASHION BRANDS by Emma Ross

BA (Hons) International Fashion Branding “Do you think they like techno aye?”: An investigation into the relationships between fashion brands and Glasgow’s electronic music subculture By

Emma Jane Ross S1507121 Department of Fashion, Marketing, Events and Tourism April 2019 i

Word Count: 10,926 words

ABSTRACT This dissertation investigates the extent to which Glaswegian youth are influenced by the electronic subculture when making clothing choice decisions. The Glaswegian electronic scene has produced a prevalent music subculture within the city through its expansive nightlife offering and underground community, more specifically in house and techno genres. After critically evaluating existing literature surrounding the subject, a gap in the research was identified to gain a greater understanding of the Glaswegian electronic subculture’s attitudes, beliefs and behaviours when making clothing purchase decisions. Interpretivism was used as the philosophical approach for this research with thematic data analysis. Inductive and exploratory research resulted in obtaining qualitative data through one-to-one, semi-structured interviews with 20-22-year-old male and females who considered themselves to be members of the electronic subculture. A comprehensive analysis of the information gathered allowed the Glaswegian subculture to be defined. They are identifiable through a distinct and specific street style – and are known to incorporate both branded goods and vintage pieces into their outfit choices. The purchase behaviours and interests of the subculture are influenced by both influential DJs and peer groups; however, the modern subculture has introduced elements of elitism through the investment of rare garments and expensive brands. Purchasing behaviours of the subculture were analysed using Ajzen (1991)’s Theory of Planned Behaviour model. This identified that the electronic subculture is strongly influenced in their fashion consumption interests and feel as though there is a pressure evident within the subculture to look a particular way. The density of the pressure felt differed between male and female participants. The normative beliefs of the subculture are determined through peer-pressure; however, members feel that there are still elements of freedom to interpret trends to suit their own individual styles. The control beliefs suggest that the Glaswegian electronic subculture is difficult to merge into for a new member, as the style is individual, yet trend driven - therefore making it easy to feel out of place. However, these brands are accessible and once the member is aware of the style, it is easy to imitate. The Glaswegian electronic subculture holds similarities to other UK subcultures due to its Streetwear style – however, Glasgow is able to differentiate itself in brand choice through the unique start-up clothing companies that have launched in the city. Recommendations regarding this research have been considered and suggested for further study.

iii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to take the opportunity to thank various people who have been crucial in the completion of this dissertation. Firstly, I would like to thank my dissertation advisor Nicola O’Hare: your enthusiasm towards my research topic continued to motivate me in moments where I felt lost and overwhelmed. You have provided the upmost support throughout my final academic hurdle, and I am very grateful for the time you have given me. Secondly, thank you to my friends and family who have been patient with me while I’ve frequently gone off the grid to focus on my studies. I would like to highlight a special thank you to Ella Braidwood and Crystal Williams who have both been a crutch through my final stages of university and for helping me to seek the greatest potential in myself. I wouldn’t be here without your continuous support. I would like to thank all of my research participants who gave me their time to be interviewed: without your help, I wouldn’t be submitting a dissertation that I’m proud of. Finally, I would like to thank Sub Club for offering me a position within their team as a content creator post-graduation. It has topped off my dissertation writing process and has made all of the hard work feel worthwhile. I would like to dedicate this dissertation to my family: the abundance of help and support that you have provided to get me through the past 4 years of university has been invaluable. You have set me up to be equipped for the future and I feel ready to go and tackle the world. Thank you.

TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................................. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ......................................................................................................iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................................................................... v LIST OF TABLES ................................................................................................................. viii LIST OF FIGURES ..................................................................................................................ix CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................. 2 Introduction overview ...................................................................................................... 2 The research problem ....................................................................................................... 2 Rationale for research ...................................................................................................... 3 Research Question ........................................................................................................... 3 Research Aim & Objectives............................................................................................. 4 Research Plan ................................................................................................................... 4 Dissertation structure ....................................................................................................... 5 CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................... 7 Introduction ...................................................................................................................... 7 A definition of electronic music ...................................................................................... 7 The existing link between electronic music and the fashion industry ............................. 7 Subcultures & consumer reference groups ...................................................................... 8 2.4.1

A definition of subcultures & reference groups ................................................. 8

2.4.2

The history of fashion & the electronic subculture ............................................ 9

2.4.3

Glasgow’s electronic subculture ...................................................................... 10

2.4.4

Glaswegian DJ’s relationship with fashion brands .......................................... 11

Theory of Planned Behaviour Model ............................................................................. 11 2.5.1

Attitudes (Behavioural Beliefs) ....................................................................... 12

2.5.2

Subjective Norms (Normative beliefs) ............................................................ 12

2.5.3

Perceived Behavioural Control (Control beliefs) ............................................ 12

2.5.4

Behavioural Intention....................................................................................... 12

2.5.5

Behaviour ......................................................................................................... 13

Chapter Summary .......................................................................................................... 14 CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY ........................................................................................... 16 Research Rational .......................................................................................................... 16 Research Aim & Objectives........................................................................................... 16 Research Philosophies ................................................................................................... 16 Research Approach ........................................................................................................ 18 v

Primary & Secondary Research ..................................................................................... 19 Qualitative & Quantitative research............................................................................... 21 Research Methods .......................................................................................................... 22 Method of Research ....................................................................................................... 23 Research Design............................................................................................................. 24 Interview Pilot Testing ................................................................................................. 25 Sampling ...................................................................................................................... 25 Data Analysis ............................................................................................................... 27 Limitations ................................................................................................................... 27 Chapter Summary ........................................................................................................ 28 CHAPTER 4: FINDINGS........................................................................................................ 30 Introduction .................................................................................................................... 30 4.1.1

Interview participants....................................................................................... 30

To identify and critically analyse the electronic subculture within Glasgow ................ 30 4.2.1

The Glaswegian electronic music scene as a subculture ................................. 30

4.2.2

The Glaswegian electronic subculture’s brand and clothing choices .............. 31

4.2.3 Defining the electronic subculture in comparison to other music subcultures in Glasgow 32 To critically analyse the fashion behaviours and interests of the Glaswegian electronic subculture ............................................................................................................................. 34 4.3.1

Social status within the Glaswegian electronic subculture .............................. 34

4.3.2

The electronic music subculture’s fashion choices being influenced by DJs .. 34

To critically evaluate the clothing purchase behaviours of the electronic music subculture using Ajzen’s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model ............................... 36 4.4.1

The attitudes of the Glaswegian electronic subculture .................................... 36

4.4.2

The normative beliefs of the Glaswegian electronic subculture ...................... 38

4.4.3

The control beliefs of the Glaswegian electronic music subculture ................ 40

4.4.4

The behavioural intentions of the Glaswegian electronic music subculture.... 41

To critically evaluate and identify the differences between the Glaswegian electronic subculture against other locations ........................................................................................ 42 4.5.1 The Glaswegian electronic subculture differentiating themselves against other electronic subcultures in foreign countries ...................................................................... 42 4.5.2 The Glaswegian electronic subculture holding unique aspects when compared against subcultures from other cities in the UK ............................................................... 42 CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSION ................................................................................................ 45 Introduction .................................................................................................................... 45 5.1.1 Objective #1: To identify and critically analyse the electronic subculture in Glasgow 45

5.1.2 Objective #2: To critically analyse the fashion behaviours and interests of the Glaswegian electronic subculture .................................................................................... 46 5.1.3 Objective #3: To critically evaluate the clothing purchase behaviours of the electronic music subculture using Ajzenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model47 5.1.4 Objective #4: To critically evaluate and identify the uniqueness between the electronic subculture within Glasgow against electronic subcultures in other cities....... 48 Limitations ..................................................................................................................... 48 Recommendations .......................................................................................................... 49 REFERENCES ........................................................................................................................ 51 APPENDICES ......................................................................................................................... 59 Appendix 1: Schedule of meetings with supervisor ............................................................ 60 Appendix 2: Ethics form ...................................................................................................... 61 Appendix 3: Written explanation for dissertation research ................................................. 66 Appendix 4: Interview questions ......................................................................................... 67 Appendix 5: All interview transcripts .................................................................................. 69 Appendix 6: Similarity report ............................................................................................ 133

vii

LIST OF TABLES Table 1-1: Research Aim & Objectives ..................................................................................... 4 Table 1-2: Proposed timeline for study ...................................................................................... 4 Table 1-3: Dissertation Structure ............................................................................................... 5 Table 2-1: Literature review chapter summary ........................................................................ 14 Table 3-1: Research aim .......................................................................................................... 16 Table 3-2: Research objectives ................................................................................................ 16 Table 3-3: Positivism vs. Interpretivism .................................................................................. 18 Table 3-4: Inductive vs. Deductive research............................................................................ 19 Table 3-5: Primary vs. Secondary research ............................................................................. 20 Table 3-6: Advantages & disadvantages of Primary research ................................................. 20 Table 3-7: Key differences between qualitative and quantitative data .................................... 21 Table 3-8: Qualitative research methods ................................................................................. 22 Table 3-9: Quantitative research methods ............................................................................... 23 Table 3-10: Advantages & disadvantages of one-to-one interviews ....................................... 24 Table 3-11: Probability sampling vs non-probability sampling .............................................. 26 Table 3-12: Limitations............................................................................................................ 28 Table 3-13: Methodology chapter summary ............................................................................ 28 Table 4-1: Question 18 Responses ........................................................................................... 31 Table 4-2: Question 3 & 17 Responses.................................................................................... 32 Table 4-3: Question 4 Responses ............................................................................................. 33 Table 4-4: Responses raising theme of elitism ........................................................................ 34 Table 4-5: Question 5 Responses ............................................................................................. 35 Table 4-6: Question 15 Responses ........................................................................................... 36 Table 4-7: Question 1 Responses (Male) ................................................................................. 37 Table 4-8: Question 1 Responses (Female) ............................................................................. 37 Table 4-9: Question 9 Responses ............................................................................................. 38 Table 4-10: Question 2 Response ............................................................................................ 39 Table 4-11: Question 6 Responses ........................................................................................... 39 Table 4-12: Question 3 Responses ........................................................................................... 40 Table 4-13: Question 11 Responses ......................................................................................... 41 Table 4-14: Question 12 Responses ......................................................................................... 43 Table 5-1: Limitations.............................................................................................................. 49 Table 5-2: Recommendations for further study ....................................................................... 50

viii

LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Theory of Planned Behaviour model........................................................................ 14

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION Introduction overview The introductory chapter will provide an overview of what this dissertation will involve. It will explore the research problem and reasoning for this study to be conducted, alongside the aim and objectives.

The research problem Glasgow’s expansive contribution to the electronic music community has made it an epicentre for electronic music (Macdonald, 2011). Glaswegian basement venue, Sub Club (locally known as “Subbie”), has become an institution for electronic music and was highlighted by The Guardian as the top nightclub in the UK clubbing scene in 2015 (Coldwell, 2015). However, Glasgow’s electronic music scene has been defined by its chaotic nature when compared to its UK counterparts due to the infringement of the 3am clubbing licence – further distancing itself from electronic scenes elsewhere which allow parties to continue into the later hours of the morning (Macdonald, 2011). The electronic scene has been a topic of investigation due to its impact on UK youth culture - as seen with i-D magazine’s short documentary, “Inside Glasgow’s underground after-hours party scene”, which discusses the “artfully rebelling” Glaswegian subculture and the rise of underground, illegal after-hour parties (i-D, 2017). Commonly known as the “afters”, these after-parties are hosted in abandoned warehouses across the city and are seen to last up to 48 hours after the 3am Saturday night curfew (i-D, 2017; Macdonald, 2011). Furthermore, in 2018 Dazed and Confused magazine delved greater into the progression of Glasgow’s after-hours nightlife, highlighting key promoters and events that are “pushing Glasgow’s club scene forward” (Rymajdo, 2018). Electronic music and fashion have been crossed referenced in the past and are often defining aesthetical factors for rave culture in the late 80s and 90s. The electronic subculture is renowned for compelling against the norm in both their behaviours and fashion choices – with their initial style being defined by eccentric colour palettes and baggy clothing (Conner, 2015). The growth in popularity of electronic music has seen the gap becoming more closely intertwined between the two industries, with popular DJ’s embracing their own personal styles as a method of self-branding. In August 2018 South Korean House and Techno DJ, Peggy Gou, announced her fashion line “Kirin” – a streetwear-influenced collaboration with Off-White’s 2

founder Virgil Abloh (Pitcher, 2018). Pan-Pot, a Berlin techno duo, released their clothing line “Nightlife Unlimited” with French designer, Aurelia Paumelle – creating a collection of tshirts, trousers and accessories curated for a long night of dancing (Telekom Electronic Beats, 2017). This highlights an evident link between DJs, fans and the clothes that they choose to wear – showing the influential impact that DJs have towards the subculture’s clothing choices. The electronic music consumer typically presents a jovial, compelling and independent approach to life – which adds to the dynamic nature that can be found in electronic nightclubs throughout Glasgow (Hietanen & Rokka, 2015; Lawson, 2017). The short film created by i-D magazine conveys the Glaswegian electronic subculture as being individualistic, recalcitrant and headstrong to compel against the “norms” of society (i-D, 2017). From this information it can be presumed that there is an evident electronic subculture within Glasgow, however it is unclear whether they exist by the same premise as electronic subcultures in other locations.

Rationale for research Following on from the literature review, a gap in existing research has been identified to investigate the attitudes, beliefs and behaviours of the electronic subculture in Glasgow. This presents the opportunity for the subculture to be analysed in order to understand their attitudes and purchasing behaviours towards fashion brands. The data collected can then be utilised to identify whether Glasgow’s electronic subculture is unique when compared against electronic subcultures from other cities. The subculture’s buying behaviours will be studied using Ajzen (1991)’s Theory of Planned Behaviour model to understand the consumer’s behavioural beliefs, normative beliefs and control beliefs that lead them to carrying out their brand purchasing decisions (Ajzen, 1991). This will allow greater understanding of the behaviours of the electronic subculture, and whether there is a peer influence present when making clothing purchases.

Research Question The proposed research question for this study is as follows: “To what extent are Glaswegian youth influenced by the electronic subculture in clothing choice decisions?”

Research Aim & Objectives In order to successfully conduct this study so that it fulfils the research question, a research aim and objectives have been set.

Table 1-1: Research Aim & Objectives

Research Plan This is a proposed timescale that shall be followed throughout the completion of this dissertation.

Table 1-2: Proposed timeline for study

Dissertation structure This dissertation follows an orderly structure which will be explained as follows:

Table 1-3: Dissertation Structure

CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW

CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW Introduction The purpose of this chapter is to critically evaluate existing literature from relevant and official websites, journals and books. This will help to define the link between electronic music and fashion, the electronic subculture and whether the Glaswegian electronic subculture is unique when compared against other cities renowned for electronic music. The literature review will cover the definition of electronic music, the intertwined impact of electronic music and the fashion industry, subcultures and consumer reference groups and Ajzen (1991)’s Theory of Planned Behaviour model. The understanding of these literatures will help to form a cohesive understanding of the gap requiring investigation.

A definition of electronic music Electronic music – also known as EDM (Electronic Dance Music) – is a broad term given to a multitude of electronic music genres; but is generally known as music created electronically, using synthesizers and computers (McLeod, 2001; Oxford Dictionaries, 2018). The genre can be categorised into many sub-genres ranging from drum-n-bass, to techno and trance (McLeod, 2001). Although, Lee (2018) suggests that techno and house genres are commonly linked due to techno’s derivation from house and disco genres. Since the birth of the UK underground party scene in the late 80’s, an almost exclusive and more intimate collective of people would find a strong resonance with undiscovered, less mainstream tracks of the techno and house genres (Barnes, 2018).

The existing link between electronic music and the fashion industry The fashion and music industry have previously been described by Calefato (2001) as being closely interlinked and supportive of one another. The head of London College of Fashion, Frances Corner, stated that the way that a musician decides to dress can be used as a form of lifestyle and identity-building (Baron, 2016). Whereas, Currid (2007) states that the music and fashion industry are built on creativity, and therefore are able to become closely intertwined as they are able to sustain each other (Currid, 2007 cited from Strähle & Kriegel, 2018). Fashion is used as a method to convey the identity, belonging or lifestyle of a person and how they wish to present themselves amongst society (Sinnreich & Gluck, 2005 cited from Strähle & Kriegel, 7

2018, pg. 10). This is also reflected in the music industry, with music being used to portray their personal views and values (Universiteit Leiden, 2018). Music can be used as a common interest to bind together a group of people who share similar views and ideas (Universiteit Leiden, 2018). A person’s identity can be built around their interests and how they publicly present themselves, therefore suggesting that music tastes and fashion preferences are elements which help to enhance a person’s public image (Baron, 2016; Calefado, 2001; Hellqvist, 2014 cited from Strähle & Kriegel, 2018, pg.10).

Subcultures & consumer reference groups 2.4.1 A definition of subcultures & reference groups Consumers purchase specific brands or products with the intention of creating an extension of their own persona and building their identity (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Purchasing decisions in modern society are heavily influenced on how the buyer wishes to see themselves, or how they wish them to be seen by others (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Consumers wish to buy into brands which they can resonate with and matches their own beliefs and values, as they feel like they are purchasing a sense of their own personality which can be seen by society (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). The products that one decides to use or consume in social settings can be determined by how they wish to be perceived by those around them (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). They will consume particular products as a method of portraying their personality and values to show their association with a particular reference group (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Reference groups can be defined as a group of people who share the same beliefs, attitudes and behaviours (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Members will often look to one another to draw comparisons and as a source of guidance on how they should present themselves (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Reference groups can be further defined by contactual or associative reference groups (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). These types of reference groups are often connected through common interests and can be described as being “close groups with which we interact regularly and where there is a degree of proximity” (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015, pg. 272). In regard to this study, the shared common interest of the reference group may be techno and house music, as these are two genres evident in both EDM culture and the Glaswegian electronic music scene 8

(McLeod, 2001; Macdonald, 2011). However, Raven (1993) suggests that particular members within a subculture could hold social power over others. Members with high social power could be considered as DJs within the subculture, as they will hold referent power over subculture members (Raven, 1993). Referent power can be defined as being influenced by a person because they are admirable, therefore resulting in being influenced to act in a similar way (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Therefore, DJs in the subculture may hold referent power over other members, therefore leading them to be influenced to dress in a similar way as they admire and look up to them (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Cultures are relevant in the case of this study, being defined by “the shared understandings, meanings, and customs” of a group, “which together act as a ‘blueprint’ to guide behaviour” (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015, pg. 309). Cultures are able to determine what is “acceptable” within the group and can therefore shape the consumption behaviours of members (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). However, Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen (2013) argue that cultures are a broad definition and can be defined further. Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen (2013) describes a subculture as a group of people who share similar values and tastes but are smaller and more defined in nature than a culture. Subcultures have a more dominant belief approach and often stray against the mainstream in order to differentiate themselves from society (Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen, 2013). They often share demographic and consumption interests; and for example, can be identified by the way they dress or their music interests (Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen, 2013). Youth subcultures show membership through visual prominence and the way that they present themselves: as seen in previous decades through the Teds, Punks and Mods (Huq, 2007). Subcultures are argued to be a lifetime association between the member and the subculture (Huq, 2007). However, Thornton (1995) states that subcultures can grow and dissolve through the progression and development of individual tastes, therefore suggesting that the boundaries surrounding music cultures are fluid and allow the entry and exit of subculture members (Thornton, 1995).

2.4.2 The history of fashion & the electronic subculture Techno and fashion were the two elements which shaped 90s Berlin club culture (i-D, 2015). Prominent brands from the 90s era are still thriving on the modern-day rave scene – Adidas’ 9

recent collection with Y-3 was deemed “rave-wear” approved, incorporating the iconic 3 stripes and structured shapes to create a collection aspired to be worn to Berlin clubs (Telekom Electronic Beats, 2017). Berlin’s current underground scene has played a key influence for German brand, GbmH - as the “subcultural edge” in their Spring/Summer 2018 collection takes key influence from the garments worn by Berlin ravers (Telekom Electronic Beats, 2017). The Acid House uprising in the late 80s played contribution to the development of the strong bond held between vintage fashion and music (Turner, 2018). The modern rave culture continues to thrive in the UK, in which Barnes (2018) observes that techno and house clubbers are “fashion-conscious”, further expressing the link that exists between electronic music genres and the style that these listeners encapsulate (Barnes, 2018). In the 80s, the “scallydelic” wardrobe trend – a style defined by designer labels, baggy clothing and luminous colour schemes – took over the UK and was the ravers’ dress code of choice (Reynolds, 1998, pg. 95). Whereas the 90s electronic music culture is frequently linked to “baggy, loose fitting, bright, neon-coloured clothing” which resembled the 1960s hippie counterculture (Conner, 2015, pg. 16). Techno and house parties were a space where attendees would go out and wear their most extravagant outfit to be seen, rather than to dance and appreciate the music (Reynolds, 1998). This identifies an opportunity to study how the electronic subculture dresses in the modern day, specifically within Glasgow.

2.4.3 Glasgow’s electronic subculture Glasgow’s “Summer of Love” in the late 80s and early 90s was a prominent era for electronic music, as DJs took to tenements throughout the city hosting parties for party enthusiasts (Brewster, 2018). Glasgow’s contribution towards house and techno communities are reflected through its thriving nightlife and underground scene – with renowned Sub Club taking pride in being the longest running weekly house night in the world with its flagship Saturday nights, “Subculture” (Sub Club, 2019). With Glasgow holding prominence amongst electronic scenes worldwide, this provides relevant appeal into the investigation of the Glaswegian electronic subculture in particular. The rave and dance scene have been prevalent to the growth and development of electronic music subcultures within the UK (Huq, 2007). Huq (2007) defines electronic music under many genres, suggesting that electronic music subcultures cannot be defined under a singular 10

category (Huq, 2007). The variation between group identities and communities throughout the electronic music scene creates a gap for the exploration of the house and techno subculture in Glasgow (McLeod, 2001). There is a gap in the literature to investigate the techno and house electronic subculture and their clothing purchasing behaviours in Glasgow. Therefore, this provides the opportunity for research to be conducted to discover the characteristics of the techno and house market, what their influences and beliefs are, and what behaviours lead them to purchasing items of clothing.

2.4.4 Glaswegian DJ’s relationship with fashion brands Glasgow has been prevalent in the success of DJs who were born and made in the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Macdonald, 2011). Alumni include Harri & Domenic, Optimo and Slam – but more recently, Denis Sulta, Jackmaster and Jasper James have seen proclaimed fame since their initial debuts (Macdonald, 2011; Coldwell, 2015). These modern prodigies hold significance towards this study due to their connections to the fashion industry - which is evident through their brand prominence on their social media channels, as well as brand collaborations. In September 2018, Jasper James collaborated with Glasgow clothing brand Postal to release a selection of retro-futuristic t-shirts designed by the DJ – which were released in Glasgow streetwear store, 18montrose (18montrose, 2019; Cole, 2019). Furthermore, OffWhite creative director Virgil Abloh made his Sub Club debut in September 2018 – defining the link between the Glaswegian electronic subculture and fashion (Sub Club, 2018). This is further demonstrated through the cross-arrow logo used by Off-White, which was taken from Glasgow airport’s branding in the mid-60’s (Williams, 2019). Since the discovery, start-up brands such as Party Chat have interpreted the Off-White/Glasgow Airport logo in their own t-shirt designs, which have sparked demand throughout the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Williams, 2019).

Theory of Planned Behaviour Model The Theory of Planned Behaviour is a consumer buying behaviour framework, which helps the marketer to understand a customer’s reaction and feelings towards a product (Ajzen, 2011; Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen, 2013). Ajzen (2011) describes the Theory of Planned Behaviour as the way “people act in accordance with their intentions and perceptions of control over the behaviour, while intentions in turn are influenced by attitudes toward the behaviour, subjective norms, and perceptions of behavioural control” (Ajzen, 2011). Or alternatively, it is about 11

predicting consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s behaviours and intentions, and the influences behind them (Ajzen, 2011). The Theory of Planned Behaviour model presumes that there are three different consideration processes taken by the consumer when making a purchase decision (Ajzen, 2002). These include behavioural beliefs, normative beliefs, and control beliefs (Ajzen, 2002):

2.5.1 Attitudes (Behavioural Beliefs) The behavioural beliefs or attitudes of a consumer can be described as the positive or negative perception the consumer has on performing the behaviour (Ajzen, 1991). It can also be described as how willing the consumer is to carry out the action (Ajzen, 2002). In this case of this study, it will cover the attitudes of the member of the subculture and whether they perceive the action of purchasing particular clothing or brands to fit in, to be a positive or negative experience.

2.5.2 Subjective Norms (Normative beliefs) Normative beliefs or subjective norms are the perceived expectations of others, creating presumed social mannerisms that a friendship group would expect members to conform by (Ajzen, 2002). This involves how much peer-pressure the consumer may feel to perform such behaviour (Ajzen, 1991). In this case, normative beliefs will be how those in the subculture are expected to behave and act, or alternatively, how much pressure members of the subculture feel like they have to purchase particular clothing or brands.

2.5.3 Perceived Behavioural Control (Control beliefs) Perceived behavioural control, or control beliefs, are defined by how easily or complex it is to behave in a particular way (Ajzen, 2002). The perceived behavioural control is determined by the actions and situation at hand (Ajzen, 1991). This can be defined by how likely the consumer perceives themselves to successfully complete the behaviour (Ajzen, 1991). In the case of this study, this can be viewed as the degree of ease a consumer could integrate into the subculture, through the purchasing of clothing or brands which resonate with the subcultureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beliefs and attitudes.

2.5.4 Behavioural Intention The behavioural intention can be explained as the reasonings and purpose for the behaviour, and what triggers the intention to take place (Ajzen, 2002). It can also be summarised by the 12

amount of effort, or to which extent, the consumer is willing to go to in order to enact the behaviour (Ajzen, 1991). However, the behavioural intention can be hindered by factors out with the consumer’s control, such as money, time or availability (Ajzen, 1991). In relation to this study, it can be considered how easy it would be for the consumer to access the clothing deemed “appropriate” to the subculture. This would include the availability of the clothing or brands that the subculture invests into, and whether the consumer can afford to purchase the clothing in order to feel as though they “fit in” with the subculture.

2.5.5 Behaviour Behaviour is what follows the behavioural intention and is when the behaviour is successfully carried out (Ajzen, 1991). The behaviour being carried out is a combination of both the motivation of the consumer (also known as the intention), and the ability (or the behavioural control), for the behaviour to be carried out (Ajzen, 1991). Perceived behavioural control and behavioural intention can both be used to predict the successful pursuit of a behaviour (Ajzen, 1991). This can be considered through the power of perceived behavioural control – for example, someone with greater perceived behavioural control is more likely to successfully perform the action than another person who has lower perceived behavioural control and doubts their success (Ajzen, 1991). This can also be argued from the sense of experience, a change in behavioural information or an introduction of new elements into the pursuit of behaviour (Ajzen, 1991).

Attitudes (Behavioural beliefs) How will the consumer feel about the consequences of their actions? Consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s judgement on a positive or negative outcome in consequence of their behaviour Subjective norm (Normative beliefs) How much pressure does the consumer feel from the subculture to behave this way? Would the subculture approve of this behaviour? Is this normal behaviour for the subculture?

Behavioural Intention What is the purpose of carrying out this behaviour? What do I expect the outcome to be?

Perceived behavioural control (Control beliefs) How easy is it for the consumer to perform the action? In terms of both self-confidence and in terms of pursuing the behaviour

Figure 1: Theory of Planned Behaviour model

Chapter Summary

Table 2-1: Literature review chapter summary

Behaviour

CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY

CHAPTER 3: METHODOLOGY Research Rational The methodology chapter covers the approach and methods that were used throughout the research (Wilson, 2010). This chapter aims to cover the methods for carrying out the research based from academic literature, describing the research design and the reasoning as to why it has been chosen (Ghauri & GrĂśnhaug, 2002). Finally, it will cover the limitations of the study.

Research Aim & Objectives Following from the research question, a research aim and objectives have been set.

Table 3-1: Research aim

Table 3-2: Research objectives

Research Philosophies The research paradigm can be defined as the method used to approach the research being conducted (Denscombe, 2010). It refers to the practices and beliefs that are relevant when conducting research, based from past philosophies and assumptions made about the world (Denscombe, 2010; Collis & Hussey, 2017). It focuses on ontology and epistemology, which is the understanding of social reality and social research â&#x20AC;&#x201C; however the view of each will be 16

dependent on the paradigm chosen (Denscombe, 2010). Positivism and interpretivism are the two paradigms relevant to business research – they are both formed around the idea of a research question, however they take opposing approaches as to how the results are drawn (Denscombe, 2010). Positivism is a scientific approach to social research, which studies the patterns and regularities in research alongside causes and consequences (Denscombe, 2010). It is believed that the best way to find an authentic result is by using a scientific method, being constructed by using a theory, hypothesis, an operational definition, measurement, testing and verification (Jankowicz, 2002). Interpretivism, also referred to as constructivism or phenomenology, is argued in opposition of Positivism - stating that natural scientific research and the methods used to draw results differ greatly to the study of social sciences and is a social approach to research (Bryman & Bell, 2011; Denscombe, 2010). Interpretivism believes that reality is comprised of various elements such as language, consciousness, and shared meanings, while taking greater consideration for people’s attitudes, beliefs, feelings and emotions (Denscombe, 2010; Dudovskiy, 2018). Interpretivism takes a qualitative approach, in contrast to Positivism’s quantitative approach (Denscombe, 2010). Interpretivism focuses on the understanding of human experience, where research is based on human interactions which are yet to be analysed and theorised (Denscombe, 2010; Jankowicz, 2002). The benefits of interpretivism can be explored, which highlights that it can be used in small-scale research, it gives valuable and authentic research results when researching more complex topics, alongside being a more humanist way to approach research (Denscombe, 2010). Therefore, interpretivism was suitable for this research as it gives the researcher insights into the Glaswegian electronic subculture’s opinions and beliefs, which may highlight whether it is unique when compared against other cities.

Table 3-3: Positivism vs. Interpretivism (Collis & Hussey, 2017; Easterby-Smith et al., 2018)

Research Approach The research approach can be defined by taking an inductive or deductive method to the study. An inductive method involves a “systematic process of establishing a general proposition on the basis of observation or particular facts” (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002, pg. 16). An inductive method is based on empirical evidence, where the theory is derived from the results of the research (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002). Inductive research is linked with qualitative research, but conclusions may carry some risk due to the results being drawn from empirical observations, and not from hard evidence (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002). A deductive method can be defined as “the logical process of deriving a conclusion from a known premise or something known as true” (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002, pg. 16). Results are drawn from logical reasoning and are built from existing literature which is then tested to draw the final result (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002). Data is quantitative in nature, with the theory and hypothesis influencing the deductive research process (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002). This research followed an inductive approach, as the theory was formed or identified once the research had been conducted. This was found through the use of interviews, which was a qualitative approach to research as it allowed the researcher to investigate the thoughts and 18

opinions of the interviewee. Once all the interviews had been conducted, the results were analysed to discover if there were any underpinning themes as to whether the Glaswegian electronic subculture can be considered as being unique in their fashion choices.

Table 3-4: Inductive vs. Deductive research (Bryman & Bell, 2011; Saunders, Lewis & Thornhill, 2012)

Primary & Secondary Research Primary research can be conducted when secondary data is unavailable, or there is insufficient information regarding the research topic (Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002). Primary data can be collected using surveys, questionnaires, observations and interviews (Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002). The advantages of primary data research include that the data will be relevant and consistent to the research being conducted, which will help the analysis of consumer behaviour to be relevant and practical for the research (Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002). Secondary research is when data is collected from previous research that has already been conducted, however caution must be taken when using this information as it may not be relevant to the research problem at hand (Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002).

As there was little existing secondary data on the research topic, primary research was conducted to provide a clear and accurate representation of the Glaswegian electronic subculture. Primary research was collected through interviews with members of the electronic

subculture. Table 3-5: Primary vs. Secondary research (Collis & Hussey, 2017)

Table 3-6: Advantages & disadvantages of Primary research 20

(Ghauri & GrĂśnhaug, 2002, Jankowicz, 2002; Saunders, Lewis & Thornhill, 2012)

Qualitative & Quantitative research Qualitative research is an inductive approach, where emphasis is placed on the creation of new theories (Bryman & Bell, 2011). It is based on the researchersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ability to construct their own theories, which are open to be interpreted and evolved further as they believe that the world is constantly changing (Bryman & Bell, 2011). Therefore, the research should be continuously evolving at the same pace at the social world surrounding it (Denscombe, 2010). Whereas, quantitative research is a deductive method of data analysis which is based around the testing of theories (Bryman & Bell, 2011). It incorporates elements of positivism, in which it follows the theories of the natural scientific model and has an objective view (Bryman & Bell, 2011). In the case of this study, qualitative research was conducted to gain an understanding of the targeted segment. This was due to a lack of already existing data that was needed to conduct accurate research. Therefore, qualitative data enabled the researcher to access in-depth knowledge of the targeted subculture (Bell & Bryman, 2007).

Table 3-7: Key differences between qualitative and quantitative data (Jankowicz, 2002)

Research Methods The research method can be defined as the approach being taken to collect and analyse the information in order to draw results (Jankowicz, 2002). Research methods can either take a quantitative or qualitative approach.

Table 3-8: Qualitative research methods (Bryman & Bell, 2011, Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002) 22

Table 3-9: Quantitative research methods (Collis & Hussey, 2017; Jankowicz, 2002; Bryman & Bell, 2011) In the case of this study, qualitative research was conducted to gain an understanding of the targeted segment. This was due to a lack of already existing data that was needed to conduct accurate research. Conducting the research was flexible and open to interpretation, which allowed the generation of new theories (Bell & Bryman, 2007). This involved taking an inductive approach to the research, making the research more exploratory in nature so that new theories could be built from the findings (Woo, O'Boyle & Spector, 2017). The research was explored through in-depth interviews, which resulted in qualitative findings through gaining a greater insight into the participantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thoughts and opinions regarding being a member of the electronic subculture.

Method of Research To collect primary data, face-to-face interviews were conducted to create more insightful findings into the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Wilson, 2010). Interviews enabled presumed assumptions of a situation to be explored further than a standard conversation would allow (Denscombe, 2010). Interviews allowed the collection of qualitative data, which provided meaningful findings into the attitudes and behaviours of a subculture (Wilson, 2010). Furthermore, interviews were more flexible as the interviewer had the ability to re-structure the questions to suit the interviewee (Wilson, 2010). It also allowed the information required 23

to be immediately accessible to the interviewer (Wilson, 2010). The interview took a semistructured format, involving a set list of questions as criteria, but also included open-ended questions which resulted in further conversation, allowing more detailed and specific results to be drawn (Blaxter, Hughes & Tight, 2010). Open-ended questions create an opportunity for new insights or opinions to be formed in the research than a standard list of set questions would enable, which created a more accurate representation of the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Blaxter, Hughes & Tight, 2010).

Table 3-10: Advantages & disadvantages of one-to-one interviews (Bryman & Bell, 2011; Collis & Hussey, 2017; Easterby-Smith et al., 2018)

Research Design The research can be defined as being cross-sectional in design, as it was collected from a specific moment in time and therefore only represents the Glaswegian electronic subculture at that particular moment (Lavrakas, 2008). One-to-one interviews were conducted with fifteen members of the Glaswegian electronic subculture. One-to-one interviews are easy to arrange due to there only being two participants involved (Denscombe, 2010). As there was only one interviewee being interviewed at a time, it allowed the information to be uninfluenced from other participants (Denscombe, 2010). The interview was a semi-structured, flexible format which allowed new ideas to be developed (Denscombe, 2010). Open ended questions allowed the interviewee to expand on points, develop on ideas and encouraged new ideas to be developed which the researcher may not have previously thought of (Denscombe, 2010; Bryman & Bell, 2011). This allowed the answers to be richer in content, and therefore generated more informed data (Denscombe, 2010).

The interview explored four themes centred on Ajzenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model. This involved understanding the underpinning of the subcultureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s behavioural beliefs, normative beliefs, control beliefs and behavioural intention. The interviews were comprised of 19 open-ended questions, which were asked to each interviewee. The semi-structured interview format allowed the interviewer to ask additional questions which they thought would enhance their research, however these questions were not asked to all of the participants. The interviews were conducted in an informal setting, such as in the houses of the interviewer or interviewee. As the interviewer was friends with the participants, this did not pose a threat or danger to either involved. This also ensured that the interviewees were comfortable to be honest with their answers and what they decided to share with the interviewer (Denscombe, 2010). The location chosen was in the house of the interviewer or the interviewee, as this was in a space which was quiet and where the interviews would not be disturbed or interrupted (Denscombe, 2010). The interviews were recorded using voice recording software, and then transcribed by the interviewer. The interviewee had granted their consent prior to the interviews in order to follow a positive code of conduct. The interviewee was required to sign a consent form to confirm that they agreed for their information to be used in this research. The intervieweeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity will be hidden throughout the research, to comply with the Data Protection Act 1998.

Interview Pilot Testing The interview was pilot tested before being formally conducted. Pilot testing enables the interviewer to determine whether the questions are misleading, flawed, or whether there are general weaknesses in the interview design (Kvale, 2007 cited from Turner, 2010). Piloting interviews must be tested with someone who is similar or would consider themselves as being a part of the targeted group (Turner, 2010). The piloted interview was conducted with someone who was not a formal participant of the research, however still perceived themselves to be a member of the electronic subculture.

Sampling A sample can be defined as a group of subjects which represent a larger population, from which evidence can be drawn to build and define conclusions (Easterby-Smith et al., 2018; Ghauri & 25

Grönhaug, 2002). Samples can be used to gain an accurate representation of a subject, without spending a large amount of time or money investigating each individual element (Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002). Two variations of sampling, probability and non-probability, can be considered.

Table 3-11: Probability sampling vs non-probability sampling (Easterby-Smith et al., 2018; Ghauri & Grönhaug, 2002; Jankowicz, 2002) A larger sample size will ensure greater accuracy in the results, which will make it easier for comparisons to be drawn or to generalise the sample (Collis & Hussey, 2017). However, an exploratory sample allows for a smaller quantity of people to be researched in depth, with greater consideration for how informative the research is, rather than its accuracy (Denscombe, 2010). This allows research to be conducted quickly, at a low cost (Denscombe, 2010). The pragmatic approach to research also argues that small samples can be “sufficiently accurate” and believes that “the aim is to get accuracy that is good enough for the purposes of research within the resources available for research” (Denscombe, 2010, pg. 46). Due to the lack of time and finances available for this study, the sample was built from 15 participants who contributed their views to the research question. Purposive sampling is a form of non-probability sampling (Jankowicz, 2002). It can be defined by when the researcher has an idea of the type of sample that is needed for the research and bases the candidates in the sample from the specified criteria (Easterby-Smith et al., 2018). A theory may be used as a guideline to the research, where the researcher is seeking developments and is therefore looking to target a specific sample (Easterby-Smith et al., 2018). Therefore, members of the sample are chosen from the electronic subculture in Glasgow as their perceptions and views were most valuable to this research. The research sample consisted of 20-22-year-old members of the Glaswegian electronic subculture, as Mintel (2018)’s report suggests that the greatest percentage of regular UK clubbers are millennials. The research was cross-sectional and included both male and female 26

participants. This allowed patterns to form as to whether there are differences in behaviours between genders in the subculture – or whether the participants feel as though the subculture is perceived differently between males and females.

Data Analysis Content analysis can be described as “the systematic examination of communicative material” (Flick, van Kardoff & Steinke, 2008, pg. 266). Content analysis aims to study communicative material – including written, verbal and visual content (Flick, van Kardoff & Steinke, 2008; Elo & Kyngäs, 2008). It allowed the researcher to test theory to enhance understanding of data in a systematic and objective way (Elo & Kyngäs, 2008). Content analysis allowed the words and phrases collected in research to be categorised under relevant theoretical framework (Elo & Kyngäs, 2008). The aim is to summarise the phenomenon to produce concepts or categories surrounding the phenomenon (Elo & Kyngäs, 2008). A thematic approach should be the primary analysis tool a researcher should use as it can be applied to manage large quantities of qualitative data (Braun & Clarke, 2008; Nowell et al, 2017). Thematic analysis identified themes through analysing and identifying research results - which assisted in the understanding of reoccurring patterns in the behaviours, attitudes and interests of the electronic subculture in Glasgow (Braun & Clarke, 2008). Thematic analysis helped rich and meaningful data to be derived from Qualitative findings, which built detailed information relating to the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Braun & Clarke, 2008).

Limitations Limitations were considered in this research project as potential issues which may affect the research process.

Table 3-12: Limitations (Bryman & Bell, 2011; Ghauri & Grรถnhaug, 2002)

Chapter Summary

Table 3-13: Methodology chapter summary 28

CHAPTER 4: FINDINGS

CHAPTER 4: FINDINGS Introduction The findings chapter will define the results discovered from undergoing the investigation into the Glaswegian electronic subcultureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion attitudes, beliefs and behaviours. This chapter will discuss the data collected in relation to existing literature, as stated in the literature review. It aims to understand the stated objectives using information gathered throughout the interview process.

4.1.1 Interview participants 15 participants took part in the interview process. The interviewees were a range of male and females, from various locations, however all consider themselves to be members of the Glaswegian electronic subculture. The age range of the participants ranged from 20 to 22 years old. Their names will be protected, but initials will be used to refer to each participant.

To identify and critically analyse the electronic subculture within Glasgow 4.2.1 The Glaswegian electronic music scene as a subculture To achieve the initial objective, the researcher interviewed participants who perceived themselves to be active members of the electronic subculture within Glasgow. In order to understand whether those who are a part of the subculture in Glasgow are easily identifiable as a group, the researcher asked whether the interviewees would be able to identify those who are a part of the subculture when walking down the street:

Table 4-1: Question 18 Responses Twelve respondents said that there is a specific style which identifies with members of the electronic subculture. Subculture theory states that members will consume and use products as a way to portray their personality and interests to those around them (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Therefore, members will purchase clothing which aligns with the style and beliefs of the subculture, so that it is a public display of their interests to those around them. These findings suggest that the Glaswegian electronic subculture hold differentiating factors when compared against other music subcultures within Glasgow, which will be discussed in section 4.5 of this chapter.

4.2.2 The Glaswegian electronic subcultureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand and clothing choices To discover the Glaswegian electronic subcultureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perception of brand choice, the researcher posed two questions: asking the interviewees what brands they identify with the subculture, and what brands they regularly purchase from.

Table 4-2: Question 3 & 17 Responses There were four reoccurring “categories” when participants thought of the subculture: Streetwear, Sportswear, Vintage, and Footwear. Footwear and Sportswear go hand in hand – as the footwear mentioned are mostly sneaker brands. However, all four categories could be considered to fall under the “Streetwear” title, being defined by Oxford Dictionary as “casual clothing of a style worn by members of various urban youth subcultures” (Oxford Dictionaries, 2019). Modern Streetwear has seen influences merging from skate culture, sportswear and high fashion, which has been reflected in the brands prominent in the Glaswegian electronic subculture (Edwards, 2018).

4.2.3 Defining the electronic subculture in comparison to other music subcultures in Glasgow To understand the ways in which subculture members present themselves in different music subcultures, the interviewer posed the question regarding whether they would wear the same outfit when going to a mainstream/pop music club, than what they would wear to an electronic music club.

Table 4-3: Question 4 Responses The question generated various responses – nine respondents stated that they would dress differently, however six stated that they would dress more casually, with three adding that they did not care about how they look as they will be mixed amongst subcultures they do not interact with. Those who felt that they had to dress differently would dress fancier and more “fashionled” than they would when attending electronic clubs. This further enhances the sense of learned culture that members of the electronic subculture feel – as their beliefs and attitudes lead them to the action of choosing an outfit that they would deem as “appropriate” and “cool” in electronic clubs (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen (2013) states that dress codes are an insight into what a culture stands for, with members of the culture knowing how to dress for specific occasions (Schiffman, Kanuk & Hansen, 2013). The change

of dress code between clubs suggests that electronic music subcultures stand for different beliefs and expectations when compared to mainstream clubs.

To critically analyse the fashion behaviours and interests of the Glaswegian electronic subculture 4.3.1 Social status within the Glaswegian electronic subculture The brand choices noted in section 4.2.2 shows a variety of branded garments which either take a new or vintage approach. Both the higher price point of new branded garments and the limited availability of vintage garments highlights elements of exclusivity from within the subculture. The higher price point and exclusivity of these types of garments suggest that members of the subculture are perceived as “cooler” through exclusive garment choices, introducing elements of elitism within the subculture.

Table 4-4: Responses raising theme of elitism This suggests that more “limited” the garment, the “cooler” the members are perceived within the subculture. This reflects on Reynolds’ (1998) statement of members of the 90s subculture caring more about their appearance, rather than the music. This suggests that elements of the 90s electronic subculture are still prominent throughout the Glaswegian electronic subculture today, showing how the shared beliefs and values have not evolved greatly since the subculture’s inception (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). This also introduces elements of elitism within the subculture which could be further investigated.

4.3.2 The electronic music subculture’s fashion choices being influenced by DJs To further understand the interests and behaviours of the subculture, the researcher wanted to investigate the extent to which the electronic subculture influences fashion brand choice. The researcher posed the question to discover whether the electronic subculture are influenced by 34

what DJs wear, and whether they would have an impact on how they decide to dress. The question directly referenced techno and house producer, Peggy Gou, as a prime example of a DJ who likes to express her brand and fashion choices on social media. The question regarded whether the electronic subculture would be influenced by Gou’s choice to promote brands on her social media channels and would be influenced to shop from the same brands.

Table 4-5: Question 5 Responses This research develops on the existing literature stating that the music and fashion industry are closely intertwined, suggesting that fashion can be a way for a musician to enhance their identity and lifestyle (Baron, 2016). This research has discovered that electronic music DJs, such as Peggy Gou, are able to influence their listeners’ fashion choices – further developing the idea of clothing being a way to show identity and sense of belonging to a subculture (Sinnreich & Gluck, 2005 cited from Strähle & Kriegel, 2018). This suggests that DJs within the electronic subculture are considered as a reference group for members, and they hold elements of referent power that members want to imitate (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). This data shows that the clothing choices of high regarded DJs in the subculture are able to influence their fans and therefore, creating interest in specific brands in the fashion industry. These brands are discussed further in the following section.

To critically evaluate the clothing purchase behaviours of the electronic music subculture using Ajzen’s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model In order to investigate the density of the electronic subculture and the power it has over members, the researcher used the Theory of Planned Behaviour model (1991) to understand the electronic subculture’s emotions and feelings towards fashion and brands.

4.4.1 The attitudes of the Glaswegian electronic subculture The researcher aimed to understand the behavioural beliefs and attitudes that members of the electronic subculture had towards fashion and fashion brands. The researcher asked participants whether they perceived there to be a strong association between electronic music and fashion – to which all participants agreed that there is a strong correlation.

Table 4-6: Question 15 Responses This further highlights the element of clothing purchase behaviour within the subculture, as all participants agree that there is some form of pressure in clothing choice. Participant 7’s statement regarding members dressing “a certain way” highlights Szmigin & Piacentini (2015)’s sense of differentiation against the mainstream in subcultures through consumption interests. This defines an area for investigation of the amount of pressure perceived by the subculture into clothing and brand choice. To examine the density of this pressure, the interviewer asked 36

whether participants feel as though they need to show an association with the subculture in everyday life. This will reveal how willing members of the subculture are to show their identity to the electronic subculture at all times. This question identified a variation of opinions between subculture members. Most of the male respondents answered that they dress relatively the same, apart from taking into consideration that they will be dancing in a club.

Table 4-7: Question 1 Responses (Male) Whereas female respondents perceived their styles to be quirkier and more expressive when compared against everyday life.

Table 4-8: Question 1 Responses (Female) This reveals that there is a differentiation between the pressure felt by subculture members who are male and female. However, the pressure that members feel to present themselves as members of the subculture is only felt when they are attending events. This reflects further on Thornton (1995)â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theory of subcultures, stating that some may have low barriers of entry and exit, suggesting that the Glaswegian electronic subculture do not conform to a permanent particular aesthetic. This suggests that the subculture is fluid, allowing association to be drawn whenever members feel as though they need to portray themselves as being a part of the subculture â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in this case, the members only feel a pressure when they are attending electronic music events.

This led onto the investigation of whether participants dressed in the clothes that they do because it resonates with their personal style, or because it resonates with the electronic subculture. Ten participants believed that their style is both influenced by their personal tastes and those of the electronic subculture, or they believe that they found their “personal style” through being a part of the electronic subculture:

Table 4-9: Question 9 Responses This develops on Szmigin and Piacentini (2015)’s theory of subcultures – showing that those who are members will buy into clothing as they believe that they are investing into a piece of their personality – however, this has been built and shaped around being a member of the subculture (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). This presents the possibility that those who are members of the subculture feel as though they are naturally purchasing clothes that they are personally interested in – however their personal opinions and interests may have been shaped around the associative group they are a part of (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015).

4.4.2 The normative beliefs of the Glaswegian electronic subculture To understand the expectations received by members of the subculture and their clothing choices, the researcher investigated the pressures felt by interview participants when they are making outfit choices for electronic music events. Firstly, the researcher asked whether there is a pressure to dress a certain way when attending electronic music events. The majority of respondents said that they did feel as though there was a pressure to look a particular way. However, this “pressure” was perceived differently. Three participants mentioned that they feel as though they have a self-pressure to portray themselves a certain way. Six participants feel as though there is not a direct pressure to present 38

themselves a particular way, but they believe that there is a certain look that people in the electronic subculture go for and they would feel out of place if they did not conform by that same style.

Table 4-10: Question 2 Response Participant 10’s statement highlights the thinking process of being a member of the subculture – not necessarily feeling as though there is an obvious pressure, however, opting for a certain “look” which will help them to fit in and be accepted within the subculture. This highlights the subjective norms that members feel from within the subculture, and that there is a preconceived standard of appearance that members want to conform by (Ajzen, 1991). The researcher asked participants whether they thought they had to dress a particular way in order to fit in with their friends who are also a member of the subculture. Nine of the participants felt like they did dress in a particular way in order to merge in with their friend group.

Table 4-11: Question 6 Responses This strengthens Ajzen (1991)’s model that friends within the subculture feel a peer-pressure to conform by the same style of clothing in order to fit in with one another, and with others in the subculture. Szmigin & Piacentini (2015) state that contactual reference groups are used by the subculture to guide how they should present themselves. This research therefore shows that members of the Glaswegian electronic subculture use their reference groups to determine their clothing purchases. 39

This followed onto investigating whether participants feel as though they have a freedom to express their personal style, or whether there are trends which present greater emphasis on fashion within the subculture. Thirteen participants thought that there are trends within the subculture that members tend to follow, however, eight participants did not feel like there is a direct pressure to strictly follow those trends and that there is freedom to interpret trends to fit in with their own “personal” style. This suggests that there are elements of peer pressure from within the subculture to incorporate their own interpretations of “trends”, which correlates to Ajzen (1991)’s model of shared normative beliefs between members. However, the pressure that these members feel is small – which correlates with Thornton (1995)’s theory that subcultures are not always reflected in a lifestyle sense and therefore, suggesting that a strong visual identity is not highly portrayed within the Glaswegian electronic subculture.

4.4.3 The control beliefs of the Glaswegian electronic music subculture The control beliefs of the electronic subculture were investigated to understand how easy or complex it is for someone to merge into the electronic subculture, and how easy it is to access the brands and clothes that they wear. To understand the clothing or brands that the subculture is associated with, participants were asked to name the brands that come to mind when they think of the subculture.

Table 4-12: Question 3 Responses Participants were then asked whether they feel like it is easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style. Eleven participants perceived it to be difficult to merge into the electronic subculture as the brands that are worn are expensive, therefore making them more exclusive. Four participants said that it was easy to merge, as although some of the brands worn are expensive, there are cheaper ways that they can be accessed through vintage, charity shops, or online shops such as Depop. Participants also viewed that the style worn by the subculture is unique, but once exposed to it, it is easy to imitate. This reflects on the theory that subcultures 40

tend to show their identity to a subculture through the clothes that they wear, as all participants mentioned brands that fall under the “Streetwear” category (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). However, it may be difficult to integrate into the Glaswegian electronic subculture in terms of style, as the brands are expensive and hold elements of exclusivity (Ajzen, 1991). This suggests that the Glaswegian electronic subculture is difficult to merge into when considering clothing choice when attending electronic music events.

4.4.4 The behavioural intentions of the Glaswegian electronic music subculture Behavioural intentions of a subculture explain the reasoning as to why members purchase particular brands or clothes and take into consideration the barriers that members may face when purchasing these clothes. To understand the accessibility of these brands mentioned, participants were asked whether they are easy to invest into. The results were reasonably balanced – seven participants thought that it was difficult to merge into the subculture in terms of style, as the brands were more expensive which could therefore be intimidating to those who are trying to merge into the subculture. However, participants also stated that appreciating the music held as much importance, and the visual element of showing that you are a part of the subculture should not

be so important: Table 4-13: Question 11 Responses Participant 7’s quote suggests that it is easy to merge into the subculture as long as you show genuine interest in the music, however there are visual elements to the subculture which may enhance your feelings of inclusivity if you were to invest into them. Therefore, most members feel as though it can be difficult to merge into the subculture if you are unaware of the music or the style worn by the subculture (Ajzen, 1991). The high price of the brands worn within the subculture may be overwhelming for new members to embrace and feel as though there is a barrier to entry which restricts them from integrating fully. 41

This followed onto investigating whether members of the subculture would feel pressure from their friends to purchase a particular garment of clothing if it was commonly worn within the subculture. The researcher asked whether the member would feel pressure to purchase into a more expensive brand if their friends in the subculture were investing into it. This question generated varied responses, with a majority saying that they would only be influenced if they liked the brand that they were investing into â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which suggests that the associative groups of the subculture do play a large influence on what members of the subculture decide to purchase (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). However, this also suggests that there are still elements of freedom which members can embrace and incorporate into their clothing decisions, further enhancing Thornton (1995)â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theory that the Glaswegian electronic subculture has more fluid elements, but there is not a strict dress code as to which the subculture follows when attending electronic music events.

To critically evaluate and identify the differences between the Glaswegian electronic subculture against other locations 4.5.1 The Glaswegian electronic subculture differentiating themselves against other electronic subcultures in foreign countries To understand whether the Glaswegian electronic subculture was different when compared against other countries, the researcher asked participants whether they would be afraid of feeling out of place when attending an electronic music event in a foreign country they had never visited. This would lead to understanding whether members would feel as though they would need to research potential outfits in order to fit in. Seven participants said that they were concerned about not fitting in and would therefore think more about their outfit choice. This reflects on Huq (2005)â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s statement that electronic music subcultures overlap, however there are still differentiating factors that determine the individual subcultures. This suggests that house and techno subcultures in different countries do hold similarities, however there are elements of their clothing purchasing behaviours that hold differences, which can be investigated further.

4.5.2 The Glaswegian electronic subculture holding unique aspects when compared against subcultures from other cities in the UK The researcher aimed to identify whether the Glaswegian electronic subculture holds any unique elements to their clothing choices when compared against electronic subcultures within 42

the UK. This will identify whether electronic subcultures hold similarities across all locations, or whether they differ between cities. Five respondents answered that they did see a difference between subcultures in different cities, whereas five respondents said that they thought that the UK as a whole dressed relatively similar. This suggests that there are some elements unique to Glasgow’s electronic subculture which make them stand out: Participant 2 suggested that this could be particularly down to brand choice.

Table 4-14: Question 12 Responses The increase in start-up brands in Glasgow introduces new brands which hold more “unique” elements as they are not as well known, therefore members can still obtain the same feelings of exclusivity as they would by wearing a higher priced branded garment. This highlights that the Glaswegian electronic subculture are drawn to brands which hold elements of exclusivity, and the ownership of these brands reflects that they are members of the electronic subculture. The association between these brands and the electronic subculture enhances Szmigin & Piacentini (2015)’s theory of subcultures, showing that members dress to the “Streetwear” image when attending events in Glasgow. The “Streetwear” image is apparent throughout electronic music subcultures in the UK and refers to the subculture overlap mentioned by Huq (2005). However, Glasgow is able to differentiate itself through the introduction of local “Streetwear” brands which members can invest into. This leaves the opportunity for further investigation into the purchasing behaviours of electronic subcultures in other cities and how they differ from the Glaswegian electronic subculture. The purchasing behaviours of electronic subcultures in other cities can be studied to discover whether they also invest in local brands, which reflects feelings of exclusivity. Overall, it can be considered that Glasgow does hold unique elements in terms of brand selection when it comes to purchasing from homegrown, grassroots brands. Underground, 43

independent brands are prevalent within Glasgowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s electronic subculture which act as a cultural reference to Glasgowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youth. However, when it comes to a general overall style and appearance, electronic subculture members tend to opt for a Streetwear-style look which is a concept seen across electronic subcultures in the UK. Clothes are often baggier which reminisces on 90s rave wear, which can be seen in subcultures in the UK and beyond.

CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSION

CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSION Introduction This chapter provides an overall summary of the findings from this study and how they relate to the aim and objectives of this research project. The limitations will also be discussed alongside recommendations for further research in this project area.

5.1.1 Objective #1: To identify and critically analyse the electronic subculture in Glasgow The first objective was fulfilled by the identification and analysis of the electronic music subculture in Glasgow. The information gathered from this research suggests that the electronic subculture within Glasgow holds a unique and individual prominence amongst music subcultures that exist within the city. The electronic subculture look “trendy” but stand out amongst the traditional norms of mainstream fashion. The subculture can be defined by the fit of their clothes and how individual pieces are styled together – for example, having a trouser length that finishes above the ankle, with a pair of statement socks and trainers. Outfits tend to be baggier, which reminisces on the style of the 90s rave culture which is still apparent within the electronic subculture today. This underpins Szmigin & Piacentini (2015)’s subculture theory, stating that they are identifiable through shared values and beliefs and public consumption behaviours. The shared values of the subculture which were initially evolved in the late 80s are still evident today, and subculture members are still influenced by the same styles to display their association to the subculture. The evidence of this subculture is further reflected in Glasgow’s longstanding electronic nightlife scene, as seen with Sub Club: resulting in an increase in the amount of “spin-off” clubs such as La Cheetah and Flat 0/1.

5.1.2 Objective #2: To critically analyse the fashion behaviours and interests of the Glaswegian electronic subculture The second objective was fulfilled by the researcher through investigating the behaviours and interests of the Glaswegian electronic subculture when they are making clothing purchase decisions. The researcher aimed to understand where subculture members draw their influences from when making clothing decisions, and whether they have a point of reference. The research uncovered a theme that relevant DJs in the electronic subculture hold influential behaviour over clothing and brand choice in members. Members of the subculture may find inspiration through the brands that their favourite DJs are wearing – therefore influencing them to purchase brands or style clothes in a similar way. This further enhances Baron (2016)’s statement that clothing choice and music are closely intertwined. The data collected underpins Raven (1993)’s theory of referent power in reference groups, showing that DJs hold referential power towards subculture members to influence them to buy similar brands and imitate their style. This follows on from Sinnreich & Gluck (2005)’s definition of subculture, further enhancing that subculture members dress similarly to show identity and belonging (Sinnreich & Gluck, cited from Strähle & Kriegel, 2018). To understand the behaviours of the subculture, the researcher investigated the brands that members buy and the brands that are associated with the subculture. The key defining factors of the Glaswegian electronic subculture include branded goods which fall into the Streetwear category, which could take a vintage or modern approach. The subculture is heavily influenced by sportswear brands, which could be linked to being “dressed to sweat” when dancing in nightclubs. The clothes worn by the subculture are heavily branded and hold elements of exclusivity due to their limited availability or higher price point. Elements of exclusivity present ideas that subculture members sometimes care more about their appearance rather than the music - a behaviour that was apparent in the 90s (Reynolds, 1998). Therefore, this suggests that the Glaswegian electronic subculture’s behaviours are still similar to those that existed in the 90s and that the values and beliefs of the subculture still remain (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015).

5.1.3 Objective #3: To critically evaluate the clothing purchase behaviours of the electronic music subculture using Ajzen’s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model The third objective was achieved by using Ajzen’s (1991) Theory of Planned Behaviour model to understand the purchasing behaviours of the Glaswegian electronic subculture and their behaviours behind clothing choice. The data retrieved shows that the Glaswegian electronic music subcultures’ attitudes towards clothing and fashion holds significant importance, and there is an evident pressure to dress a particular way within the subculture. However, members do not feel a pressure to show association to the subculture in everyday life. The pressure is enhanced when attending electronic music events, suggesting that it is easy to enter and exit the subculture and only be associated with it when in the presence of other members (Thornton, 1995). Subculture members feel greater pressure to dress in a way that they perceive as “cool” when attending electronic music events, as they feel like they have more pressure to make a personable impression on other subculture members. Members feel as though their style is a combination between their own personal tastes and the style of the electronic subculture – this underpins Szmigin & Piacentini (2015)’s theory that subculture members’ feel as though they are buying into a piece of their own identity, and also the shared beliefs of the electronic subculture. There is a shared self-pressure between subculture members when making clothing choices when attending electronic music events. Members feel as though they need to purchase clothes that will help them “fit in” with the subculture, as they would feel out of place if they wore clothes that did not conform to the subculture’s style. This underpins the preconceived standards that members feel as though they need to abide by in order to feel like a member of the subculture (Ajzen, 1991; Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). Members feel as though there is a peer pressure to fit in with their friends and will often consider them as a contactual reference group to set the “standard” that they should dress to (Szmigin & Piacentini, 2015). There are trends within the subculture, but they are open to interpretation to incorporate individual styles. The electronic subculture is difficult to merge into as the brands worn are often expensive and exclusive. However, this can be made easier through buying vintage or second-hand pieces 47

which will make the brands more affordable to members. The clothing and brand choice that the subculture represents is not strict, however members do feel as though they need to abide by a “style” to fit in.

5.1.4 Objective #4: To critically evaluate and identify the uniqueness between the electronic subculture within Glasgow against electronic subcultures in other cities. To fulfil the final objective, the researcher aimed to understand whether there are any unique differences between Glasgow’s electronic subculture when compared against cities in the UK and beyond. The findings suggested that although UK electronic subcultures possess a “Streetwear” style, the Glaswegian electronic subculture does hold unique elements which differentiate it from subcultures in other cities. The information gathered shows that Glasgow is more brand orientated when making clothing purchase decisions when compared against subcultures in other locations. There are elements of the Glaswegian subculture which overlap with subcultures in other cities, which underpins Huq (2005)’s theory that there are similarities that tie subcultures together, however, they do not all behave in the same way. The popularity of start-up clothing brands in Glasgow provides members with feelings of exclusivity within the subculture, which differentiate it between other cities who do not have access to these brands. The cultural reference that these brands portray amongst the Glaswegian subculture make it unique when compared against electronic subcultures in other locations.

Limitations Throughout this study, there were factors to be taken into consideration which would limit the research.

Table 5-1: Limitations

Recommendations In conclusion of this research, recommendations can be made for future study of this subject area.

Table 5-2: Recommendations for further study

REFERENCES 18montrose. (2019). Postal Clothing for Men. [online] Available at: https://18montrose.com/brands/postal [Accessed 8 Apr. 2019]. Ajzen, I. (1991). The theory of planned behavior. Organizational Behavior and Human Decision Processes, [online] 50(2), pp.179-211. Available at: https://www-sciencedirectcom.gcu.idm.oclc.org/journal/organizational-behavior-and-human-decisionprocesses/vol/50/issue/2 [Accessed 22 Nov. 2018]. Ajzen, I. (2001). Nature and Operation of Attitudes. Annual Review of Psychology, [online] 52(1), pp.27-58. Available at: https://www-annualreviewsorg.gcu.idm.oclc.org/doi/abs/10.1146/annurev.psych.52.1.27 [Accessed 5 Nov. 2018]. Ajzen, I. (2002). Perceived Behavioral Control, Self-Efficacy, Locus of Control, and the Theory of Planned Behavior1. Journal of Applied Social Psychology, [online] 32(4), pp.665-683. Available at: https://onlinelibrary-wiley-com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/doi/epdf/10.1111/j.15591816.2002.tb00236.x [Accessed 5 Nov. 2018]. Ajzen, I. (2011). The theory of planned behaviour: Reactions and reflections. Psychology & Health, [online] 26(9), pp.1113-1127. Available at: http://web.a.ebscohost.com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/ehost/detail/detail?vid=0&sid=974b5b29-9db64cd9-bbae552d950d05e5%40sessionmgr4007&bdata=JnNpdGU9ZWhvc3QtbGl2ZSZzY29wZT1zaXR l#AN=65551227&db=hch [Accessed 5 Nov. 2018]. Barnes, M. (2018). Illegal raves: How the underground scene has never really gone away. [online] BBC Three. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/bbcthree/article/66df895b-af1c416f-b32a-bb3576dbcb82 [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. Baron, K. (2016). Fashion + Music: The fashion creatives shaping pop culture. London:

Bryman, A. and Bell, E. (2007). The Ethics of Management Research: An Exploratory Content Analysis. British Journal of Management, [online] 18(1), pp.63-77. Available at: https://onlinelibrary-wiley-com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/doi/epdf/10.1111/j.1467-8551.2006.00487.x [Accessed 21 Mar. 2018]. Blaxter, L., Hughes, C. and Tight, M. (2010). How to Research. 4th ed. Maidenhead: Open University Press. Braun, V. and Clarke, V. (2008). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, [online] 3(2), pp.77-101. Available at: https://www-tandfonlinecom.gcu.idm.oclc.org/doi/abs/10.1191/1478088706qp063oa [Accessed 22 Mar. 2018]. Brewster, B. (2018). Raveheart: How house music exploded in Scotland. [online] Mixmag. Available at: https://mixmag.net/feature/raveheart-how-house-music-exploded-in-scotland [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018]. Bryman, A. and Bell, E. (2011). Business research methods. 3rd ed. Oxford (UK): Oxford University Press. Calefato, P. (2001). “Light my fire”: Fashion and music. Semiotica, 136(1–4), 491–503. doi:10.1515/semi.2001.094. Coldwell, W. (2015). 10 of the best UK clubs – chosen by the experts. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2015/feb/19/top-10-uk-clubs-chosen-byexperts [Accessed 25 Mar. 2018]. Coldwell, W. (2015). Club culture: a guide to Glasgow's nightlife – by Optimo. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2015/mar/25/club-culture-guideto-glasgow-nightlife-by-optimo [Accessed 11 Apr. 2019]. Cole, S. (2019). Postal Delivers an Exclusive T-Shirt Capsule via SEVENSTORE. [online] Complex. Available at: https://www.complex.com/style/2019/04/postal-sevenstore [Accessed 10 Apr. 2019].

Collis, J. and Hussey, R. (2017). Business research. 4th ed. New York: Palgrave Macmillan. Conner, C. (2015). Electronic Dance Music: From Deviant Subculture to Culture Industry. Ph.D. University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Denscombe, M. (2010). The good research guide. 4th ed. Maidenhead: Open University Press. Dudovskiy, J. (2018). Interpretivism (interpretivist) Research Philosophy - Research Methodology. [online] Research Methodology. Available at: https://researchmethodology.net/research-philosophy/interpretivism/ [Accessed 26 Mar. 2018]. Easterby-Smith, M., Thorpe, R., Jackson, P. and Jaspersen, L. (2018). Management and business research. 6th ed. UK: Sage Publications. Elo, S. and KyngĂ¤s, H. (2008). The qualitative content analysis process. Journal of Advanced Nursing, [online] 62(1), pp.107-115. Available at: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1365-2648.2007.04569.x [Accessed 14 Mar. 2019]. Flick, U., van Kardoff, E. and Steinke, I. (2008). A companion to qualitative research. Los Angeles: SAGE. Ghauri, P. and GrĂśnhaug, K. (2002). Research methods in business studies. 1st ed. Harlow: Financial Times Prentice Hall. Hietanen, J. and Rokka, J. (2015). Market practices in countercultural market emergence. European Journal of Marketing, 49(9/10), pp.1563-1588. Huq, R. (2007). Beyond subculture. 1st ed. London: Routledge. i-D (2015). the eccentric and extravagant style of berlin techno. [online] i-D. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/8xnemx/the-eccentric-and-extravagant-style-of-berlintechno [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018]. 53

i-D (2017). Inside Glasgowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s underground after-hours party scene. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxijUQpioks [Accessed 14th Apr. 2019]. Jankowicz, A. (2002). Business research projects. 3rd ed. London: Thomson Learning. Lavrakas, P. (2008). Cross-Sectional Survey Design. [online] SAGE Research Methods. Available at: http://methods.sagepub.com/reference/encyclopedia-of-survey-researchmethods/n120.xml [Accessed 23 Apr. 2018]. Lawson, M. (2017). Glasgow's Sub Club is one of the best rave experiences on the planet. [online] Mixmag. Available at: https://mixmag.net/feature/glasgows-sub-club-is-one-of-thebest-rave-experiences-on-the-planet [Accessed 11 Apr. 2019]. Lee, S. (2018). This is the story of a techno revolution. [online] Red Bull. Available at: https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/quickfire-history-of-detroit-techno [Accessed 12 Nov. 2018]. Macdonald, K. (2011). Clubbing in Glasgow. [online] Resident Advisor. Available at: https://www.residentadvisor.net/features/ [Accessed 22 Apr. 2018]. McLeod, K. (2001). Genres, Subgenres, Sub-Subgenres and More: Musical and Social Differentiation Within Electronic/Dance Music Communities. Journal of Popular Music Studies, [online] 13(1), pp.59-75. Available at: https://ir.uiowa.edu/commstud_pubs/6/ [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019]. Mintel (2018). The Leisure Outlook - Quarterly Update - UK - September 2018. [online] Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/display/859385/?highlight [Accessed 14 Apr. 2019]. Nowell, L., Norris, J., White, D. and Moules, N. (2017). Thematic Anaysis: Striving to Meet the Trustworthiness Criteria. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, [online] 16(1-13). Available at: http://journals.sagepub.com.gcu.idm.oclc.org/doi/abs/10.1177/1609406917733847 [Accessed 22 Mar. 2018]. 54

Oxford Dictionaries. (2018). electronic music | Definition of electronic music in US English by Oxford Dictionaries. [online] Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/us/electronic_music [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. Oxford Dictionaries. (2019). Streetwear | Definition of streetwear in English by Oxford Dictionaries. [online] Available at: https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/streetwear [Accessed 22 Mar. 2019]. Pitcher, L. (2018). korean djing queen peggy gou is launching a fashion line. [online] i-D. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/zmkdpe/korean-techno-queen-peggy-gou-islaunching-a-fashion-line [Accessed 17 Oct. 2018]. Raven, B. (1993). The Bases of Power: Origins and Recent Developments. Journal of Social Issues, [online] 49(4), pp.227-251. Available at: https://eric.ed.gov/?id=ED351648 [Accessed 28 Mar. 2019]. Reynolds, S. (1998). Generation ecstasy. 1st ed. Boston: Routledge. Rymajdo, K. (2018) The parties pushing Glasgow’s club scene forward. [online] Dazed. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/music/article/39327/1/the-parties-pushingglasgow-s-club-scene-forward [Accessed 25 Mar. 2018]. Saunders, M., Lewis, P. and Thornhill, A. (2012). Research methods for business students. 6th ed. Harlow, England: Pearson. Schiffman, L., Kanuk, L. and Hansen, H. (2013). Consumer Behaviour. 2nd ed. Harlow: Pearson. Strähle, J. and Kriegel, A. (2017). Fashion and Music: A Literature Review. Fashion & Music, [online] 1, pp.7-30. Available at: http://www.springer.com/gb/book/9789811056369 [Accessed 26 Mar. 2018]. Sub Club. (2018). Show x Sub Club · Virgil Abloh. [online] Available at: http://subclub.co.uk/events/show-x-sub-club-·-virgil-abloh/ [Accessed 8 Apr. 2019]. 55

Sub Club. (2019). Heritage | Sub Club. [online] Available at: http://subclub.co.uk/heritage/ [Accessed 25 Mar. 2019].

Szmigin, I. and Piacentini, M. (2015). Consumer Behaviour. 1st ed. New York: Oxford University Press. Telekom Electronic Beats (2017). Check Out Pan-Pot’s New Techno-Inspired Fashion Line – Telekom Electronic Beats. [online] Telekom Electronic Beats. Available at: http://www.electronicbeats.net/the-feed/check-out-pan-pots-new-rave-inspired-club-clothingline/ [Accessed 25 Mar. 2018]. Telekom Electronic Beats. (2017). Adidas' Latest Clothing Line Is Ready For Berlin's Techno Clubs – Telekom Electronic Beats. [online] Available at: http://www.electronicbeats.net/thefeed/adidas-new-clothing-line-is-ready-for-berlins-techno-clubs/ [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018]. Telekom Electronic Beats. (2017). See The Berlin Underground Style That Became High Fashion – Telekom Electronic Beats. [online] Available at: http://www.electronicbeats.net/the-feed/check-out-the-berlin-underground-become-parishigh-fashion/ [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018]. Thornton, S. (1995). Club Cultures: music, media and subcultural capital.. 1st ed. New York, NY: John Wiley & Sons. Turner, D. (2010). Qualitative Interview Design: A Practical Guide for Novice Investigators. The Qualitative Report. [online] The Qualitative Report, pp.754-760. Available at: https://nsuworks.nova.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=https://scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?h l=en&as_sdt=0,5&as_vis=1&qsp=1&q=pilot+testing+qualitative+interview&qst=i&httpsredi r=1&article=1178&context=tqr/ [Accessed 14 Mar. 2019]. Turner, D. (2018). Acid house fashion was outrageous and we love it. [online] Mixmag. Available at: https://mixmag.net/feature/acid-house-fashion [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

Universiteit Leiden (2018). The Importance and Power of Music in our Society. [video] Available at: https://www.coursera.org/lecture/importance-power-music-our-society/musicand-identity-an-introduction-Bf9yU [Accessed 31 Oct. 2018].

Williams, C. (2019). How one of the world's top fashion labels 'swiped' its logo from Glasgow Airport. [online] Glasgow Live. Available at: https://www.glasgowlive.co.uk/news/glasgow-news/fashion-stole-sign-glasgow-airport14849358 [Accessed 11 Apr. 2019]. Williams, C. (2019). Lift off for sought after Glasgow Airport t-shirts trolling major fashion label. [online] Glasgow Live. Available at: https://www.glasgowlive.co.uk/news/glasgownews/lift-sought-after-glasgow-airport-14932109 [Accessed 11 Apr. 2019]. Wilson, J. (2010). Essentials of Business Research. 1st ed. London: Sage Publications. Woo, S., Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Boyle, E. and Spector, P. (2017). Best practices in developing, conducting, and evaluating inductive research. Human Resource Management Review, 27(2), pp.255-264.

APPENDICES

Appendix 1: Schedule of meetings with supervisor

Appendix 2: Ethics form

Appendix 3: Written explanation for dissertation research This research is being conducted as part of my dissertation, to understand whether the electronic music scene in Glasgow influences the way that the electronic subculture dresses. This research will be able to identify and draw conclusions as to whether there is anything different between the influences of the Glaswegian electronic subculture, when compared to other cities renowned for electronic music – such as Berlin or Manchester. You have been chosen to be interviewed as you identify as being a member of the Glaswegian electronic subculture, and you actively participate and attend in electronic music events throughout the city. You will be asked questions regarding your interests and influences when making clothing decisions, alongside how you decide to dress when attending electronic music events. Questions will be referring to how you feel your decisions are being impacted while being a member of the electronic music subculture. Ultimately, we will discuss whether you feel that there is anything that differentiates the Glaswegian electronic music scene from other cities, and why you think the reasonings behind this is. CONSENT FORM By participating in this research, I understand: -

That I may not receive any personal benefit from being a subject in this research That the information that I give will be used in academic research and findings may be published That I am able to withdraw my contribution to the research at any stage That my contribution to the research will remain anonymous That the research will adhere to the Data Protection Act 1998

Name: …………………….……………………. Signature: …………………….……………………. Date: …………………….…………………….

Appendix 4: Interview questions Question 1: would you perceive your style to be different at electronic music events when compared against everyday life? Question 2: is there a pressure to dress a certain way when you attend electronic music events? Question 3: are there any brands that stick out in the scene? Question 4: if you went to a mainstream/pop club on a night out, would you wear the same outfit that you would wear to an electronic music night? Question 5: do you think DJs, like Peggy Gou, influence their followers to dress how they do as they are so expressive with their style on Instagram? Question 6: do you feel a need to dress a certain way in order to fit in with your friends who are also within the subculture? Question 7: do you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re attending events? Or do you think you show that in everyday life? Question 8: do you think it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture through clothing? Or whether the brands are hard to invest into? Question 9: do you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or because it resonates with the style of the electronic subculture? Question 10: if your friends in the subculture were investing in a particular brand of clothing, which you technically couldn’t afford, would you feel a pressure/desire to purchase that brand or a cheaper alternative to fit in? Question 11: do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Question 12: do you think the electronic subculture can differentiate themselves against other bigger cities when thinking about style? Question 13: if you were attending an electronic music event in another country, would you be concerned about standing out and not fitting in with their subculture? Question 14: as a part of the electronic subculture, do you feel like you have a freedom to express your style? Or would you say that there’s still particular trends that people tend to follow? Question 15: do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music and fashion? Question 16: why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? Question 17: are there any specific stores/brands that you purchase from? 67

Question 18: if you were walking down the street, do you think you would be able to identify those who are in the subculture by how they look? Question 19: would you say you dress for yourself or for other people?

Appendix 5: All interview transcripts A.M. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? Synthesised repetitive beats? What genre would you say you identify yourself with most? Techno, probably Would you perceive your style to be different when you attend electronic music events? Against how you dress yourself in everyday life? No. Pretty much the same? Yeah. Do you feel like you have a pressure to present yourself in any certain way through the clothes you wear when you attend electronic music events? This could be through brands, the types of clothes…Do you feel like there’s a pressure to be investing in anything? Nah not really. You can pretty much wear anything. Like people just wear anything pretty much. Is there any particular brands that come to mind when you think of that sorta scene? Probably like Palace…that’s about it. If you were attending like…Kokomo or Bamboo for a night out, would you dress yourself differently if you were going there, than if you were going to Subbie? Hmm…probably…In what way? Probably not as smart, like I would probably pick out a really nice t-shirt for it. Do you feel like you need to dress any particular way to fit in with your friends who are also interested and go to like Subbie and Flat 0/1? Nah, we all kinda dress the same anyways. Is there any way you can describe your style? Trendy. Are you’s quite influenced by…like…more branded fashion? Yeah, I normally wear brands rather than plain clothes. Do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? I don’t… Do you know of her presence on Instagram? No not really. She’s very flashy on Instagram, wears a lot of brands and tags them in her posts. She wears a lot of like Off White… Like an influencer? 69

Yeah uhu, so the question kind of relates to that and whether you think big DJs who are very expressive in the brands that they wear online, whether you think that influences their listeners and makes them want to buy brands? Yeah I think so. I always remember Patrick Topping he always wears that Off-White top, the checkered one. That’s a nice one. Do you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re attending events? Or would you say you almost have a constant association with them in like everyday life? Erm…nah. Not everyday. Only really when I go out to them. Do you feel like it is easy to merge into the electronic subculture through clothing? Or do you feel like it is quite hard to invest into the brands that people are wearing? To feel like you’re a part of it almost. I think it’s pretty easy. I think, if you’re there, it’s almost pretty welcoming in that scene. Would you say that there’s any sort of positive or negative pressure from people at all within the scene? Do you ever think you’re being looked down on? Or whether others might be looked down upon for dressing differently? Nah I think it’s pretty accepting you can pretty much wear whatever you want. Do you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or whether it’s because it’s influenced by other people? Probably my personal style. If your friends were investing into a particular brand of clothing which you maybe couldn’t afford, would you be influenced to by a cheaper alternative? Whether that’s a knockoff or a more replica of that item? Ehh, maybe. Would that be because you wanted to fit in with them? Or because you liked the item? I would have to like it. Yeah. I don’t feel like I “need” to fit in with my friends. Do you feel like the Glaswegian subculture can differentiate themselves in terms of the clothes that they wear when compared against other cities you might’ve been to? Yeah definitely. Amsterdam was well weird when compared to Glasgow. Like really different. Like…they dress very differently than they do to here just in general. But when we went to Elrow, it was mega different. Like, but I don’t know whether that was just because it was Elrow and it’s a bit of a different scene. Was it more like…comparing it against like Terminal V, would you say Amsterdam was more toned down? Or more expressive than what people are like here? Terminal V is a bit of a different one though, but when compared against like Sub Club and all that, it was very toned up. Just out there, different and weird. But I don’t know if that was just Elrow in general.

Say when you went to Elrow in Amsterdam, did you think about the clothes that you were going to wear to the event and were you concerned with not fitting into the crowd? Ehhh…yeah cause we dressed up for it. So, being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express your style? Or would you say that there’s particular trends that people like to follow? I would say there’s both probably. You see both when you go out. Would you say that they can still merge into one group though? Yeah they’re all still under the subculture group, they’re not actually all split up into like different groups. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music and fashion? Yeah definitely. Would you say that it’s more of like a home for people to be like, sort of, dress more to themselves than what they would in everyday life? Yeah definitely, you get dressed up for it and wear a nice outfit rather than like just going out normally. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it makes you feel? Because I enjoy the music and the people are pretty nice when compared against like, studenty culture, like people can be pretty stuck up. You can pretty much go anywhere or you can go anywhere in the world and people are just like, sound. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? I quite like Palace, it’s probably my favourite brand. Probably Adidas as well. Do you feel like if you were walking down Buchanan Street, do you feel like you would be able to point out people who go to like Subbie by the way that they dress? Probably yeah. They’re definitely younger. And…don’t know. Probably the way they dress as well. But I don’t know, I think it would probably be a hit or a miss as well. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? For myself.

C.M. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? I think electronic music is always in venues that are less well known, kinda…dodgy? I think the music is associated with being carefree, going out and having a good time, not really thinking too much. Like you’re always going to go out and have a good night. What genre would you say you listen to the most? I would say I’m more into disco techno rather than proper solid techno, but I think it depends. Like I listen to more disco techno for enjoyment. But I like hard techno when I’m actually at an event. Would you perceive your style to be different when you attend electronic music events when compared against everyday life? 100%. Definitely. I feel like on a day to day basis i don’t really wear brands, more casual, not put a lot of thought into what I wear, I’m quite girly. Whereas when I’m attending an event, or going out, I dress more like boy-ish, just kinda want to wear brands. Do you feel like you have a pressure to present yourself a certain way when you attend electronic music events? Definitely. You just kinda…if you wear something like Supreme, Palace or something like that then you’re automatically cool? I don’t know what it is, like he’s wearing that or she’s wearing that… Would you say it’s kinda for status? Yeah definitiely. It’s like the level that you’re into your music, is shown through what you’re wearing? I don’t know if it’s kinda to do with the DJs that inspire the attendees too That was a question I was going to lead into later on, was do you think DJs, for the likes of Peggy Gou on Instagram, do you think they influence what people wear? Like if I was looking for inspiration of what to wear to like a rave or something, she’s one of the first people I would look to for like inspiration. But I feel like her content isn’t majorly content on her fashion. Like why hasn’t somebody made a Peggy Gou fashion page or something like that? Like it’s so hard to find inspiration. If you were attending a mainstream club like Bamboo, would you feel the same pressure to dress a certain way when attending there when compared against an electronic music night? I feel like the occasion is totally different. Like, because you’re going to there and like I would probably, well not Bamboo, but I wouldn’t choose to go out to those clubs wearing casual, it would be fancy, like heel and stuff. So, I would dress completely differently. Like night and day. Would you say you’re more girly then when in those sorts of clubs? 72

Oh yeah definitely. Do you feel like you have a pressure to dress a particular way when you’re hanging out with the people that you tend to go to these electronic music events with? Yeah I feel like you want approval. Like “Oh you’re wearing that brand, how cool is that”. Like if your friends are supportive of the brands, you’re wearing it’s a nice feeling.

Would you say it’s like a talking point then? Definitely. But I’ve noticed it more with boys, like boys have more of a bond with brands like Supreme and stuff, it’s not really the same for girls. I feel like there’s not many existing brands that are accessible for girls? But I feel like that would be so cool and you could all get in the hype together. Would you say that you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture every day, or would you say that you only associate yourself with it when you’re attending the events? Well I do listen to electronic music a lot, and I follow DJs and meme pages on Instagram, so it’s not just when I’m attending events, I like to watch back sets and stuff, so I would say it’s almost like in my lifestyle. It’s sorta determined the brands I like and the DJs I listen to. Would you say it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture in terms of the way you dress, and whether it’s easy to merge into? Yes, if someone turned up so preppy you would be like “you don’t like the music, you look out of place” it’s quite judgemental in one way, but there is differences within it. Like some people right into it, who are into vintagey cool things, and then there’s others who are very Supreme but also kinda mainstream and typical? And I think the ones who are more into vintage and cool shirts, I think they’re off their heads even more. Rather than someone who just wants to be a part of it for the status if you get what I mean. Could you list of a few brands that come to mind when you think of the subculture? Palace, Supreme, Reebok, Stussy, Nike like their little bags and that. I’m trying to think more about girls, Adidas, a lot of people like their little Adidas shorts and that. Patagonia. See if I was going somewhere and I was trying to find a nice plain branded t-shirt, I would really struggle because Palace and Supreme are so hard to get, and there’s not one that’s like always accessible. So then I find myself going on Depop to find a nice branded t-shirt, it’s just so, I’ve struggled a lot trying to find something that I want. I feel like boys, if you made the effort to go out and buy a nice t-shirt, like a male product, I think they feel like you’re making too much effort. But if that was accessible to females, I feel like it would be more accepting. I feel like boys look at girls who are wearing a Supreme t-shirt, they’re like “why’s she wearing that, she just thinks shes trying to be cool”. I don’t know that’s just my opinion. Would you say that you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your own personal style? Or because it resonates with the electronic subculture? A little bit of both I would say. I get inspiration from other people who go to electronic music events and stuff, but I like to add my own style into it. I don’t think I’d wear something just because it’s associated with it – even if it’s just one thing. Wearing an outfit that I’d like, that’s sorta girly, and then adding a bag that makes me feel like I’m more a part of the culture. That’s more what I’d do. 73

If your friends were investing into a particular brand of clothing which is quite expensive, would you feel a pressure to invest in the product, or invest in a cheaper alternative? I’d feel like they’re going to get attention for wearing that, so I kinda need to up my game, like I don’t want to look like a state compared to them. I don’t think I would put myself, like, probably if they spent that much money on an item then it was probably a stupid purchase anyways. But I would try and find a cheaper alternative probably. Do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic music subculture in terms of style? Yeah. Just like, with brands you wear, if you go to one you get the vibe of the brands everyone’s wearing, so you just kind of copy. Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture can differentiate themselves in the way that they dress when compared to other cities that you’ve been to? I would say the brands are relatively the same. Like if you were in Sub Club compared against like Awakenings, there’s a lot of the same brands. So I don’t think you really could differentiate that much. All the boys are relatively the same, but the girls, I would say, I don’t know. I would say in Berlin, they look like they make less effort. Whereas the girls here, they try a little bit harder. I don’t think in Berlin and stuff, because they’re used to, that’s their whole thing. But if you’re attending stuff here then you’re going out of your way, it’s like a build-up and people make a lot more effort. So I guess it’s differentiated in that sense. When you went to Awakenings, did you think a lot about what you were wearing and were you concerned about not fitting in because you were going into a foreign subculture? No because I feel like the brands that are all associated with the electronic subculture are all the same, like international you get what I mean? I think that, actually now you talk about it, I think Glasgow is getting a little more different because you’ve got all these small start-up companies who are making t-shirts. Like Eilidh’s boyfriend started a company called Subject Apparel, and I feel like that’s what makes boys become friends because they can connect with the brands that they’re wearing. So I feel like maybe, depending on what country you’re in, they’re might be a smaller group if you’re into more smaller start-up brands. There’s this brand, you know the whole Virgil Abloh Glasgow Airport thing? So my ex and all his friends were wearing these Glasgow Airport knockoff Off White t-shirts, and that’s definitely a talking point and a differentiating factor of Glasgow to other places. I think they’re a really good option for people who can’t afford like Supreme and stuff though, because you’re still coming into part of an identity, but not that particular identity which is more mainstream. And it still holds that element of exclusivity because not many people know about it. And that boy who makes those t-shirts, he’s really into techno so he’s automatically associated with attending those events as well. Being a member of the electronic subculture, would you say there’s a freedom to express your style or would you say there’s still trends that people still tend to follow within it? I think I’d be a little bit, I don’t think I’m as adventurous with it. I don’t think I’d go too far, I feel like there’s boundaries that are set, I feel like people like branded rather than, creative. I feel like I definitely limit my style, rather than what I would usually do. I don’t give myself much freedom, like I have to wear, I don’t know I’d never wear something that’s too out there. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Yeah definitely, because there’s such a hype around it, I don’t know I feel like that’s how you express that you’re into it. 74

If you were walking down Buchanan Street, do you feel like you would be able to point out people and say that they’re a part of the subculture? Yeah definitely. Just, feel like, I feel like it’s more easy to identify more boys than girls, because I feel like girls dress totally differently when they’re attending it. But for boys, it’s more of a lifestyle because they sort of just dress the same on a day to day basis. And it’s also like the haircut, whereas girls all have the same hairstyle. But you can tell when someone’s like a part of it, like their hair, bags, a boy cutting about with a bag you can tell he likes techno. The way they wear their socks and small stuff like that. And the length of their trousers. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? Although you all dress a certain way, I feel like it’s more friendly, it’s easy to get into and make friends. It’s just more accepting and less judgemental than people who go out and listen to normal music. The atmosphere when you’re attending the events is much nicer, and I think the clothes that people wear, I think more consciously than I think, play a bigger part in that. Would you say that Glasgow is friendlier in clubs when compared to Amsterdam or Berlin? Yeah I would say so. I don’t know, like standing in queues and people chat about…like in Berlin, I think people think they’re too cool? Like “oh I’m not making any effort I’m so cool, look at us”. But in Glasgow, people are more approachable and chatty and they’ll ask about the top you’re wearing, stuff like that. I don’t know if people do that abroad. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? I struggle so much! I like to get inspiration from Urban Outfitters mens department, I think their womens is shockingly bad, not many options but I think, there’s a lack of stores where you can get nice things. Websites, I also struggle. END, far too expensive. Would you say it’s a desirable store? Yeah. ASOS maybe? More the mens department. But again, I really struggle so much. I would say more specific brands own websites maybe if it was more like…I quite like Champion, Fila, they’re all associated with the subculture so you can add that in. That’s about it. Do you feel the importance of image and fashion as a way of expressing the subculture? On social media, yeah. And in person, yeah I just think fashion’s important to it. If everyone dressed like, preppy, I just can’t imagine it I don’t think it would give off the same, it gives it more of a personality, like, I don’t know. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for others? A mixture I’d say. I’d say for approval from others, but that also makes you feel good, so I’d say a mixture of both? Like if someone’s complimenting you, and you know you’re wearing a cool brand, then you’re going to feel good so it is more, em, both. But you’re not going to buy something if you don’t like it. You’re not going to be like “oh that’s that brand so I’ll get it” because it is in the subculture, but it is in the subculture so you buy it. But I would say it’s a mix of both.

C.W. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT When you think of electronic music, what are the first things that come to mind? Music that’s created…electronically, with a repetitive pattern, and it has lots of genres What genre would you identify yourself with most? Techno When you go to a techno event, do you perceive your style to be different against how you dress yourself every day? Erm…yes, I suppose it is. Because when I’m going to a techno event, then it’s more quirky I would say? But I feel like I could wear some of the clothes that I wear to techno events in everyday life as well. It’s different because the fashion is very different, I think. But there are some things that I wouldn’t dare to live in everyday life either – I think you would get quite dodgy looks if you did. Like “what are you doing?” You said that the fashion was a bit different – are you able to describe that in any way? Just more like…bold I think and, quirky and like wild. Definitely more no holding back, like anything goes, almost? And you don’t get judged for what you wear, there’s almost like no boundaries to…like normal people who aren’t into that kind of music would probably think that those clothes aren’t acceptable to wear? Well more like isn’t nice to wear and wouldn’t think about wearing it? Whereas, you just sort of let go, it’s a chance for you to wear what you want really. Do you feel like there’s a pressure to be presenting yourself in a certain way when you attend like techno events? Erm…I wouldn’t say it’s a pressure, I would say, well, first of all, I would say there’s more “pressure” for females at these sort of events when compared to males. Because, 1) I think girls have that mindset on judging themselves on what they’re wearing anyways. But 2) I think that the fashion for girls at techno events compared to boys is completely out there and different when compared to boys. I think what boys would wear to a techno event, would be what they would wear in everyday. But girls, it’s more like revealing or…yeah like I hardly see any girls wear what they’re wearing to techno events like down Buchanan Street. But I don’t feel like it’s a pressure, I feel like you could wear your normal clothes, you could wear whatever you want. Like I’ve worn something that I would wear like out to Bamboo and nobody judges you

for it. Like it’s a judgemental free zone. I think everyone’s too busy enjoying the music and in the zone of the party to care about “oh my god you’re not wearing bondage” or whatever. That kinda leads onto my next question: if you were attending Bamboo, would you feel the same pressure to dress a certain way than you would in Subbie? I feel like there’s more pressure in places like Bamboo and that. 1) because of the way that, you have to look a certain way to go to those places, I think the people are different. I personally feel more of a pressure anyways to be looking a certain way in what I wear, when compared to going to a techno event. Would you be able to give me an example of an outfit you would wear to Bamboo compared to an outfit you would wear to Subbie? I think to Bamboo, I’d prpbably more likely wear – depending on the night it was – but a dress maybe? Like, a nice pretty dress that made me look all feminine and was more dressy. Or like a nice skirt without tights, with heels. Just sorta feminine-y clothes like, pretty clothes. And sorta flattering to your figure. Whereas Subbie, I feel like I could wear stuff that’s more chic or…like I’d probably wear more colourful stuff, stuff that’s a bit more out there. I’m not one who would wear like fishnets all the time, but I’d wear them to Subbie. I’d wear trainers to Subbie, because you can’t wear heels to Subbie. It’s more about dancing, whereas you can’t dance in heels. And I’ve actually seen people go to Subbie in heels, and they’re like “I don’t know why I’ve done this” and I was like “oh you’ll learn”. I’ve actually had that conversation with someone. I didn’t think you would get let in wearing heels? Yeah I know, but I saw her and she turned round to me and said “I’ve never been here before, like I didn’t know not to wear heels”, and I was like “it’s okay, you’ll learn”. Bless. Do you feel like there is a need to dress a particular way with your friends who are also into techno music? So this could be anything from the style of clothes you wear, to the brands that you buy in everyday life? No. I think I dress differently in everyday life how I would go to an event anyways. My fashion in everyday life is, actually I’ve got a really broad fashion, I would say I sorta vary. But no, I wouldn’t pick something up and think “oh I wouldn’t be able to wear that to Subbie so I’m just not going to get it”. Okay, so would you say that you feel a particular need to dress a certain way when you go to a techno event with your friends? Probably. I do ask “oh what are you wearing?”, but maybe that’s just a personal thing and maybe I wouldn’t want to wear something, like maybe it’s a personal and confidence thing that I wouldn’t want to wear something that’s completely out there? Like if my friends were all going in jeans and a top…it’s almost like setting a standard and the tone. It doesn’t bother me what everyone else is wearing, but you know that wee whatever group of people you’re going with, then yeah it does sort of set the standards of what you’re wearing. Do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? No I don’t…but I have seen her though! Do you think DJs being very open about the brands that they support on Instagram, do you think that influences the subculture to dress?

No…I think that sort of depends on the type of person you are and whether you’re an influential person? If you’re easily influenced. I personally couldn’t give a damn. Like I don’t care about what Partick Topping’s wearing, or Amelie Lens. Like I wouldn’t see them if they were tagging something really high brand, and think “oh I need to buy that”. I think it’s more just the music that I’m into, and I don’t feel like their style influences my style. Is there any brands off the top of your head that you associate with the subculture? I suppose Converse, Vans, I see a lot of girls wearing them. I suppose like, I don’t know actually. I don’t really wear brands, I just tend to wear high street stuff. I’m not one that really looks for brands either. Probably the ones I would notice are shoes like Converse or Vans. Do you only associate yourself with the electronic music subculture, only when you’re going to an event? Or do you feel like you have a constant need to associate yourself or show association with the subculture through what you wear in everyday life? No, I don’t feel like if you met me, you wouldn’t even know that I was into like techno and that sort of stuff. I do listen to it everyday, but you wouldn’t see it from how I dress or how my appearance is of someone that you would think goes to that sorta thing. So no, I don’t think it’s reflected. Would you say that it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture? Or would you say that it’s hard to merge into? Yeah, I think they would. Because even from personal experience, I remember my first time going to Subbie wearing something like that, or SWG3, it’s not as bad in Subbie but in SWG3 you do get some weird and wonderful stuff, especially with females. Like it’s proper out there, outfit games are on point. And I think you would be a bit like “oh I’m a bit underdressed” or whatever. So I think if you know what you’re expecting and you know the standard, then it is easier for you than being completely fresh and new and not having a clue really. I think depending on what you’re wearing, you could feel uncomfortable? If you were like, underdressed. But I don’t really think that there’s a dress code for places like that? So would you say it’s almost like a personal pressure you put on yourself? Yeah I think so. I think it does depend on the person themselves, and how confident they are and how confident they are within themselves. Because some people might just not care, whereas others might be self-conscious and like to fit in with fashion, and like to stick with trends people are following, they might feel a pressure to dress a certain way, depending on the person I suppose. Would you say that the environment then, tends to be more open to expression and encouraging expression? Yeah I think it almost gives, like if you were to wear something completely different, it would give inspiration to other people on what to wear as well? I know that I get a lot of my inspiration on what to wear from people at the events, like look at what people are wearing and be like “that’s nice”, or I would think about wearing something like that. Would you say that you decide to dress in the clothes that you wear because it resonates more with your personal style? Or because it’s associated with the style that the electronic subculture tend to go for? In everyday, my style is so different. Like it’s just more bold if I’m going out. But at times, it’s not and it’s hard because…I would say that the stuff that I’m wearing to techno events relates 78

to my personal fashion but is probably more influenced by the type of music that it is and the setting that I’m going to. Whereas in everyday life, I don’t feel like I have to dress a certain way, it’s more like casual or whatever. But yeah I suppose I am sort of influenced by the type of music that it is and the type of event I’m going to. Do you think that it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Erm…as in like, yeah, I think so. I think you could, like I said, like I dress completely different and I don’t think you would be able to tell that I’m into sort of techno and that on a day to day basis. But, the way I dress does sort of make me fit in with the culture at those events, so I merge into the crowd and I suppose I do look like someone who would go there? Rather than, like, dressing in a skimpy wee dress and heels and looking out of place. Do you feel more yourself when you are in places like Subbie or in places like Bamboo? Yes I feel more alive in places like Subbie. Yeah I do feel more myself. I think it’s because I personally like these places that play that sort of music and the type of people that go to them are less judegmental, personally I feel like that. And it is more about about a loving and positive environment of who you are, and you can be yourself and you can dance the night away and it’s not about getting with boys or like “oh my god that group of girls over there” you know what I mean? It’s just more about enjoying yourself and listening to the music, and having a good time. Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture can differentiate themselves in terms of the clothes that they wear, if you were to compare them against other places such as Manchester or Amsterdam? Well I’ve been to Parklife in Manchester, and I’d say that it’s kinda the same. I’d say the same, in the terms of the culture that stays the same, so I don’t think it matters what place you’re in. I think it’s the culture of the music that you’re going to that stays the same, because when I went to Parklife it is the same sort of fashion that you’d wear when you go to SWG3 or Subbie. It’s not like a locational difference. Have you been to any other cities for techno? Oh wait yeah we went to Rotterdam, I suppose there it was mellow. It wasn’t the fashion I would resonate with Subbie here, I think it’s more casual there. It was more jeans and a t shirt, a lot more casual than what a techno event would be here. We go all out here. Like all the clothes there were very dark. So taking that time we went to Rotterdam for that event, were you concerned about standing out within that crowd or within their culture because we were in a different country? Yeah I think probably I would’ve been…We did dress quite casual, like we didn’t know what to expect. Like if I had gone wearing something completely out there and I stood out like a sore thumb, I would’ve been completely alienated and self-concsious and been like “oh my god everyone’s staring at me”, when they probably wouldn’t of been. But again I think that comes back to me as a person and how you are within yourself and your confidence within your own fashion taste, but I personally would’ve felt really out of place and embarrassed. Would you say that the electronic subculture has trends that it follows in style? Or would you say that it’s an expression of personal style rather than trends? Yeah I think it’s more of a personal style, but I think there are trends within it in some ways…like I’m not sure what the actual names for it is, but you know when they’re wearing like…bondage stuff? And like, hardly any clothes and chains and hardly anything covering 79

you – I think that was a phase at some point, and it probably still is. But again, I think it depends on the person, if someone’s into following trends, but I don’t think there’s particular trends and it’s more of a personal taste. But if someone wasn’t to wear bondage, people wouldn’t be like “oh my god where are your chains at?” Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Yeah? I feel like, electronic music events allow you to be yourself and express yourself and your personality and who you are, which is associated with the fashion that you can wear as well? I think it’s a very judgemental-free zone, and the fashion is linked. So yeah I think they are associated in ways, but like you said it’s a specific type of fashion it’s not like everyday. It’s not like what you’d see on the high street trends? No, it’s different. But it’s more the way you style it though, and I think the bits that you wear are on the high street, I think it’s just how you style it and how you wear it. Do you think, comparing a night in Subbie compared to Parklife, are there any unique aspects about Glasgow that stands out about the way they dress? I would say…I wouldn’t say I could remember anything that would differentiate the two, I suppose because that was a festival though, and they’re a whole different ball game when it comes to fashion. Like there’s sort of trends that people follow. I wouldn’t say so. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? I like the music and the social aspect of it. And I suppose I do enjoy the ability to express myself in the fashion, I do like getting dressed in different ways to these events and I get excited choosing an outfit and all that than what I do to a mainstream club. I like going because it makes me feel really alive and really happy – I think one of my happiest moments is on the dancefloor having a wee boogie. I feel at home and welcomed and within a community. Is there any specific shops that you purchase from? Primark and New Look, and I did shop online a wee bit at Missguided and BooHoo, pretty little thing, and they’re actually quite good for getting like edgy but sometimes they’re unreliable. I tend not to enjoy online shopping as much anymore. Is there any specific brands that you purchase from? Probably like, Adidas, Converse, there must be other…Actually Palace, but Andrew gets clothes from there and I actually really like them, so I’ve started wearing his ones that he can’t fit into anymore, I think they’re cool. Do you feel the importance of fashion as a way of expressing the subculture? Yeah, I do feel like it helps. It’s a way of making yourself feel good, like “this is what I’m going to wear, this is who I am, this is what my personality is”. You can wear something brighter and bolder and more quirky or you can wear whatever suits you. But I tend to wear more bold and bright stuff. Do you feel like you could walk down the street and point out people who went to techno events? I think some people you would, but actually no, I don’t think people would be able to point me out. I think you’d be able to point some people out, but I don’t think there’s a stereotype for

people who go to these events and people who don’t. I think in some ways you’d be able to tell through their personality or whatever but, someone could dress completely different, so no. Do you dress for yourself or for other people? I would like to think that I dress for myself, but there are times when everyone is influenced by social media and trends and what’s in the shops – visual merchandising can be really good at doing that. I think I do like to dress for myself most of the time but I am aware that I seek other people’s approval on what I wear most of the time. Or if I was scared to wear something that other people don’t like, but sometimes I’m like “fuck it”. Like I got chunky [Balenciaga TripleS], and none of my friends who aren’t in the subculture like them. So like, people that aren’t part of the subculture think that they’re a bit out there, but then, like you and Megan and Danielle all think they’re cool, and Andrew likes them so. And I like them so that’s all that matters.

E.B. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? That’s a very wide question…youth, culture, nightlife, I don’t know I’m just going for word associations. What genre of electronic music would you say you define yourself with most? Probably like techno, house, between those, I don’t really venture out too much Would you perceive yourself to dress differently when you attend electronic music events when compared against what you would wear in everyday life? Erm…against everyday life, yes, because I would make more of an effort. And because I’m going out anyway, but…when I’m going to any event, I would probably dress much the same as what I would when I’m going to a techno event, but, that said, I might think about it a bit more in terms of that club and where I’m going and what the people there would be like. Would you say that you almost feel like a certain pressure to look a certain way when you attend these events? I would say, not so much a pressure, but like a…almost like a competitive thing, because everyone else there you know is going to be…cool and dressed a certain way so you think “I wanna dress my certain way, I wanna look good”. It’s a competitive thing. Would you say you feel that pressure through a brand choice? Or a, certain clothing choice? Or would you say it’s more like, a pressure to fit in or to stand out? Oh that’s a good question…I don’t know, I have like a weird mix between the two? Like on one hand you wanna fit in and be doing the things that everyone else is doing, but on the other 81

hand, that can also make you stand out? I don’t know if that makes sense, but yeah I don’t know. It’s kinda a mix between the two. Like I wanna stand out because I wanna look my best. But that might mean blending in with everyone else, and fitting in with the crowd. If you were attending a mainsteam event or club, like for example, Bamboo – would you dress differently if you were to go there than if you would if you went to Subbie? I think I wouldn’t care as much about what I was wearing, if I went to somewhere like Bamboo because they’re the clubs I don’t go to and don’t like. Because the people that are there aren’t my sort of people, so I don’t care what they think, I don’t want to be their friends, in the nicest way possible they’re not the sort of people that I wanna know? So I wouldn’t even care if I rocked up in like jeans and a top, like something basic or casual. But if I was going on a night out to somewhere cooler, with my kinda people, I’d probably make more of an effort to look cool and represent myself and my own style. Because I think fashion is a good way of meeting people and making friends because it attracts people…as shallow as it may be, your looks and what you wear and your style definitely attracts people. If you were to go to like, a techno event, are you able to list any brands off the top of your head that you might recognise? All…trainers? Nike, air force, I don’t know any kinda things like that. Girls in those kinda like sports bras, I don’t know…Ellesse, Champion these days. Kinda sportswear, like sports brands, and like Nike, Adidas blah blah blah…those kinda things mixed, for girls anyways, mixed with fancier items? Like dressing up sports and streetwear? That’s what I would consider to be quite “techno”, electronic scene. For boys, again, sportswear kinda like sweaters. Oh, Fila! Do you feel like you almost need to dress a particular way in order to fit in with your friends who are also going to these techno and house music events? This could be buying a particular brand or style of clothing… I think, again I don’t know whether this is just me, but I guess any event that I’m going to I’ll ask my friends what they’re wearing so I know what kind of level of fanciness or casualness or level of whatever I should be going because I don’t want to like, be with a group of friends wearing jeans and a t shirt and I’m going to be wearing fucking…bare legs and fishnets, trainers and all that jazz. So probably, not to “fit in” as such but kinda go in the same general, vibe and dress code. Would you say that you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re attending events, or would you say that you almost always portray a sense of association in everyday life? Oh…I don’t know…that’s like if someone saw me on the street on a normal day, would they think that I would go to those kind of events?...Probably not? I don’t know, I think usually when people meet me, and people are like “oh what kind of music do you like?”, they normally always assume it’s kinda like live music and bands that I go to see. When I talk about that, they’re kinda like “ok yeah”. But people do sometimes ask like “do you like techno?”, people have asked me that in the past, I don’t know if it’s because they like it and they see a common ground though? I don’t know that’s a hard question to answer. I kinda just dress the same all the time, well not all of the time, if I’m going out it’s usually always the same but if it’s a techno event then usually it’s more towards like…something else? Without me realising it? Would it be any particular garment that you would opt for something different to a techno event? 82

For me…I don’t know, my classic night out things are usually like, I’ll add fishnets but now that I think about it I think they’re quite associated with it, because I see a lot of girls wearing that kind of stuff. But I don’t really have any sports or streetwear stuff anyway, so even if I wanted to I couldn’t because I can’t afford it. If I had it, maybe I would. Do you have any desire to? Like if you had the money there? Yeah, if I see people, like especially when I worked at Sneaky Petes, I would see a lot of girls with really cool style. And I would think “I would love to dress like that” or “I would love that outfit”, but I can’t afford it. But that would also change my entire style, so what’s the point in buying them? Kinda thing. I don’t know. So would you say that to fit in, with that subculture, it’s not necessarily down to clothing? Yeah I mean I think money is a big part of that. Like to look cool these days, it helps to have a lot of money – and that’s the tea. Would you say that, there was an expensive item of clothing which a lot of people in the subculture were investing into but you couldn’t afford it, but you knew there were cheaper alternatives to the same item, would you invest in that piece? Probably, yeah. Like If I saw someone wearing…just like a plain top that you can get anywhere, and you can style it wear with an outfit that looked in the electronic scene, then I’d probably be influenced by that to like go out and try a similar thing? Not in a like a, “I must conform” way, but if I see someone wearing a style or an outfit that I like, it inspired me to do my own take on it? Or like, see how I can style it. In my opinion, when I go out to these events, it’s less about conformity and your own take in the general style or something. Would you say it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture? Or whether it’s quite a difficult thing to immerse yourself into? Erm…I think, difficult, especially, like when I was working at Sneaky’s, when I was working there, you’re meeting a lot of people and a lot of DJs and having to talk to all these people who are all very knowledgeable and all very held highly. Met a lot of cool DJs, I mean, that kind of always having a pressure to come off kinda like, cooler or come off well because these people are like, highly regarded. And a lot of, I mean this is more in Edinburgh, but the whole scene of people who are always at the same clubs and always at the same events, they would always come in so we would give them discount when we knew who they were. It was kinda like a clique-y thing. The longer I worked there the more people started to notice me and recognise me, which superficially, in a shallow way, feels quite good and feels like you’re in something and that you’re part of something. Which feels nice. So, back to the question, yes and no. Thinking back to all those people, I thought they were all really cool people. Like they were less stereotypical in the kind of, the people you would consider to be the overall style of that culture. I don’t know…I would say…yes and no. I think people usually take one or two expensive items and then pair it with stuff that you can get anywhere. So it’s kinda like if you wanna make that splash and buy the expensive thing, you can if you pair it right. I think it helps when you’re pretty and you can wear shite and look class. Would you say that you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because the clothes resonates with your personal style, or because it resonates with the electronic subculture that you associate yourself with?

I would say personal style, again, but I will always take elements and I’m always growing and evolving my style. My style isn’t just set on one, yano, not just set on having to respresent my personality and fashion is fun, and it’s fun to feel like a different person for a night if you want to dress completely different from usual. Or if you want to dress comfortable, I think it’s more about expressing yourself and exploring different aspects of your personality. It doesn’t have to be, as black and white as it’s this or that. Do you think that the electronic subculture in Glasgow is differentiated when you compare it against other places like Edinburgh or like Berlin? Yes, I would say that, I don’t know how to explain it, especially because Edinburgh is more, like where I’ve been out, like the fashion is kinda the same, but the don’t dress it the same way. Like the people that you see here have more streetwear and sportswear and they’re styling it with different things – well that’s what I imagine being more of the “Glasgow scene”. And Berlin is just a whole other level of like, leather bondage weird men on leads around the clubs. Like people look like they’ve come out the matrix. Like people look like they’ve come out a whole other realm, I don’t think that Glasgow will ever be there in terms of fashion in that sort of culture. But yeah, I can only really compare it to Edinburgh and Berlin because I don’t really know, what it’s like anywhere else? But if you look at fashion in America, it’s like completely gross and shit. I don’t know about the rest of the UK, maybe it’s quite similar to London? The kinda like, streetwear thing going on there. I don’t know. Would you say that Glasgow in particular, do you think about the clothes that they wear, or is it more about the brands, like the bigger the brand the cooler you look? I think it’s a bit of both. People wouldn’t buy the brands unless they knew they wanted to impress people, or it was gonna make them look better in the eyes of others. Unless you’re buying something for quality or whatever. Nobody would really buy something super expensive that isn’t going to last long, or isn’t that great quality, apart from the fact that they will know other people will think they look good and it shows that they have money and this that and the next thing. It shows that they’re part of a culture, that they so desperately want to be a part of, which they can easily be a part of if they spent so much money on a jumper or a top or a pair of trainers. I think it’s kinda like a mix, I don’t really think you can have one without the other. To impress people, you sometimes have to buy the big brands, if that’s how you wanna be. If you went to an electronic music event in another country, would you be concerned about not fitting in or standing out amongst a different electronic subculture if you didn’t dress the same way? I think if I was somewhere else, this might actually go against everything I have said before, if I was somewhere else where I didn’t really know what their fashion was like, like say it was somewhere completely different where I didn’t know what the fashion was like, I would probably just dress completely like, something from my own head, like not trying to be anything at all. Actually yeah when you say it like that, I probably do slightly dress to fit in. Everybody probably does because it’s just like, the culture that we’re surrounded by. So see how you said there about, dressing ideally how you would like to in a foreign place, would you say that there’s almost a sense of safety then? Probably, because you know that nobody knows you, you’re just some stranger and I don’t know, there’s a sort of freedom when nobody knows you. It’s the same as moving to a different city for uni or whatever, you have a sense of freedom or whatever because it’s a fresh start and you can do whatever you want with little to no repercussions. I could wear anything I wanted 84

and nobody could see. So I think yeah, if I was somewhere completely different, I’d just go crazy. And I feel like that’s a good time to go and try new things and not feel insecure or selfconscious about what I was wearing. Being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express your style, or would you say that there’s still particular trends that members of the subculture tend to follow? Yeah I mean like, with all trends, when they come about, I mean just the fact that you’re seeing them so often and seeing them all the time and seeing people look good in them, you’re probably always going to end up jumping on the bandwagon just because you’re so exposed to it so much? Like, if the people in the culture/scene were the type of people you want to be friends with and people you want to know, all begin dressing a certain way. Even if at first you don’t like it, the more you see people wearing it and making it look good, the more you’re probably going to be gradually influenced by it? Like a drip effect over time and you’ll eventually be like “I guess that’s cool, maybe I’ll try it” kinda thing. Who would you say are your key fashion influences? I don’t really know…probably… Would you say that DJs like Peggy Gou have an influence on what people in the subculture wear? Yeah like Peggy Gou posts the most amazing outfits and that’s the kind of thing that I would like to wear if I had the money to buy a full Louis Vuitton suit! But, she’s definitely a big influence like she’s brought out her own clothing line and she’s done colabs because it shows how being in that scene of electronic music, having such a strong influence over fashion means that she can get things like her own fashion label, or deals or colabs with brands because, also probably because she’s really pretty. But people look up to her as a name in electronic music, so they want to be like her and they want to dress like her. And so on and so forth. And even like boys like…Jackmaster, Denis Sulta those sorts of people, they like post outfits. Would you say that the trends that are seen in the subculture run parallel to what we see on the high street? Probably not so much high street, but I would say there’s definitely like, it starts in the electronic scene and even if people don’t like that scene and aren’t a part of that scene, they’ll see these cool people wearing it and they’ll jump on and start to adapt that style and wear it themselves. Like I have friends who wear elements of it, but in a way that I completely never would. But they’ll take bits that they like and use it in their own little scenes, I don’t know. Maybe high street have jumped on a little bit, but I can’t really think so much about what. But I think the whole style is rising. Why are you a part of the electronic subculture and how does it make you feel? Because…it’s sociable, I like the music, it makes me feel good. I think before I was really into that sort of music, like I wouldn’t say I’m completely immersed in the music like I only go because I like it when I’m there and I listen to it sometimes in my free time. I think before I was more in the scene, I didn’t understand it so much and I didn’t really get that kind of music. But then once you’re into it and realise that the music is really good and the people that enjoy that kind of music, have almost a much deeper understanding of music than any other kind of scene because, to be a DJ you have to have such a vast knowledge of so many different genres and to mix it all together to know everything about it, that’s something I really look up to. It 85

feels like a little community almost, like you can be quite accepted into easily, it’s fun, like that’s the only nights out I enjoy now because anything else is like, what’s the point? But even when I was working at Sneaky’s, I would be completely sober, but I loved the atmosphere and everyone around you is having the best time. Everyone’s happy, the music is so good, it’s just like listening to it completely sober and appreciating the music and enjoying it. There’s something special about it. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? Urban Outfitters, on the high street urban outfitters is maybe the only one? I would go to Primark for tights and socks because they’re cheap, but I don’t go there for like actual clothes. I go to like independent brands for like cool t-shirts, Lazy Oaf for all that cool stuff…where else do I like, I don’t shop that much anymore because I’m poor. Artists that I follow on Instagram release cool t-shirts so I like to support my local brands and the t-shirts that they release are cool. Are there any brands in particular that you go back to? Urban Outfitters, Lazy Oaf, Doc Martens, I guess Nike for trainers, used to be Vans but they’ve phased out I guess, they used to be cool. I would say converse but they don’t fit my feet right – I like them but I wouldn’t buy them. If you were to walk down the street, do you feel like you would be able to point out people who listen to techno? Yeah I would say so. Like sometimes I would say that as a joke if someone is dressed fully ridiculously in that kind of style, like “do you they like techno aye?”. I would say so, I mean, you can’t assume all the time. Like some people might be trying to fit in with the culture when they don’t even like it at all. It’s just because people would associate the electronic subculture’s fashion culture these days as being cool as that’s what the cool kids wear, it’s trendy, so even if they’re not that into it then they’re probably going to dress that way anyway, just because maybe their friends are if they’re in that scene, or because they see everyone doing it and they think it’s cool. All those posers you know.

Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? Um…it depends on the day and what I’m doing. I would say for myself, in general, but sometimes for other people. Depending, actually I don’t know. It was like that whole thing I was saying, like I will dress for myself but I will take elements from what I think is good for the place I’m going and what I’m doing. And sometimes it’s cool to try something completely different just for the sake of it. But on a whole, I dress for myself.

E.O. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? I think electronic music is…techno, house, electro music…good DJs and good nights out What genre do you identify yourself with most? Hmm…mainly like harder, raw techno, but depending on my mood I like house music too. But it depends. Are there any brands that you associate with the subculture? Em…Comme Des Garcons – especially their Play collection…sorta like, streetwear kinda stuff? I can picture like Nike Air 95s…Maybe stuff like Supreme and Palace too? But I also associate more vintage-y garments with the subculture too, like the stuff you find on Depop that your parents might’ve worn in the 80s/90s. But that all tends to be like, sportswear brands like Nike or Adidas.

When you go to electronic music events, do you perceive your style to be different when compared against what you wear everyday? I wouldn’t say there’s particular differences, but there are things that I wear when I go to like, Subbie, that I might not wear in everyday life…but that might also be down to it being so cold here, and it being so warm in a club. Like for example, I put together an outfit the other day and as soon as I wore it, I thought “I can wear this out this weekend”, and I took it off and put it away. Can you tell me what the outfit was? Yeah, it was a black cord skirt with a black baby tee, with my leopard print shirt unbuttoned over the top of it. And I wore it with a black pair of tights and chunky “buffalo-style” trainers. Where were the garments from? The skirt and top I bought ages ago, I think from New Look and Topshop, but I tend to not shop there anymore. I got the shirt from a charity shop – a lot of my clothes now seem to be vintage or second hand…those are the kinds of looks I like to go for. Do you feel like there’s a pressure to be presenting yourself a certain way at electronic music events? For me, I think it depends how you define the electronic music event…like I’ve been to Terminal V a few times, and the way people dress there is very out there and extravagant – well that’s what it’s like for girls anyways…and that’s very different when you compare it against like, Subbie, where the dress code is more toned down and casual. I would say for bigger events, people try harder. But in smaller clubs, you do want to look “cool”. If you were going on a night out to Bamboo or Kokomo, would you dress differently to how you would in the likes of Subbie? To be honest, I never felt like I fitted in as such in those kinds of clubs, because I never really enjoyed the music and everyone there tends to be very dressed up…I can’t remember the last time I’ve been there. When I used to go in first year, I definitely wore heels just because I felt like I had to. But if I were to go now, I would just dress however I wanted to, probably because I don’t care about whether I fit in with those people, because they’re not my sort of crowd anyway.

Do you feel like you need to dress a certain way to fit in with your friends who are also a part of the electronic scene? I don’t feel like I have peer pressure, because a lot of the time my friends compliment my outfit anyways and I feel confident in what I wear and my own personal style…but I’m definitely influenced by them, and if I see them wearing something I like, then I will probably buy into that too. I guess it depends on the friends I’m with – some are super artsy so I dress to merge in with them, and then there’s others who are more casual so I don’t feel like I need to try as hard. You mentioned there being two different types of friends…are you able to define them a little more? In terms of style? Yeah…my more artsy friends study art subjects, and I guess you could say that they’re more “edgy” and tend to steer away from like, high street trends. Kinda almost like your “typical” art student type. But my other group of friends are more “girly”, shop a lot more in fast fashion 88

shops, are more immersed in like, pop culture? I think the main difference is that the artsy ones are more into like, indie/rock/underground music, whereas the other group are more into pop and mainstream tunes, as well as house and techno. Do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? Yeah So you know how she’s super flashy with designers and who she supports and all that, do you think that influences her followers and the subculture to dress in a similar way? I think so, I think she’s become super influential in both music and fashion, especially now since she’s designed her own clothing collection. I reckon give it a few months, and you’ll go to a Peggy Gou gig and all the girls in the crowd will be dressed like her. Do you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re going to events? Or do you think you always associate yourself with it in everyday life? Over the past year or so, I think I feel like I probably show association with it in everyday life. People always say that I dress a little edgier, and I think that’s typically associated with that kind of music. I’m definitely inspired by what I see people wearing at clubs, and if I like it, I’ll try and incorporate it into what I wear everyday. Like for example, I originally bought those chunky trainers to only wear to the club, because I could beat them up and not worry if they got wrecked. But now I wear them all the time. My style has kinda merged my “nightlife” style and “everyday” style. Do you think it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Or is it difficult to merge into? I don’t know…I personally think that it’s easy, as long as you’re being yourself? I think there’s a group of people who go to these clubs for the music, and wear whatever they want and don’t try too hard, and just wear what they feel comfortable wearing. But you definitely couldn’t rock up to an electronic music venue wearing a dress and heels, you would definitely feel out of place. But there’s the other group who are all very brand orientated, and if you wanted to fit in with that sort of group, it would be harder to invest into the brands. Do you dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or because it resonates with the subculture that you associate yourself with? Hmm…It’s probably a mix of both? Like I like to think it’s my personal style, but realistically, it’s probably influenced by the subculture or by my friends who are also a part of the subculture Do you think it’s easy to merge into the subculture in terms of style? Again, it’s like I said before, I think it depends on what “style” you go for…I think it’s a space where you are kinda, allowed to express yourself, but you also don’t want to be standing out for the wrong reasons. I think there’s also a degree of people who go there for the music, and go there because it’s become “cool” to like that music. I think maybe those who are dressed more “trendy” and wearing brands, are associated with those who are only there because it’s cool to be there. So I think to me, it’s more about wearing what I like but not being too extravagant so that I fit in. I remember once I wore a midi-style dress to Subbie and the bouncers questioned me and if I knew who was playing, so they probably thought I wasn’t really into the music…So yes, and no?

Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture can differentiate themselves in terms of style when compared against other cities? When I compare it against like, Edinburgh, I think the styles are quite similar. But if I compare it against a night I went to in Holland, the style was much more casual, very dark…not as “spicy” as it is here? Like you could rock up in jeans and a t shirt and blend in every easily. When you went to Holland for that night out, were you concerned about standing out and not fitting in amongst that subculture? I wasn’t really “concerned”, but I did think about my outfit. I kinda presumed that they would dress similar to how those in Berlin would dress, so I opted for an all black outfit with fishnets to play it safe. Do you think that there is freedom to express your style in electronic events? Or is there still trends that people tend to follow? I think you will see trends with people who are the “trendy/fast fashion” attendees. But I think there is always elements of expressing your own style too. Like there’s phases like now, where you’ll see people – both those who are the “trendy” ones and the ones who are more kept to themselves – wearing things like flares that are in fashion, but might’ve started in the electronic subculture anyways? I think it kinda goes full circle. I think people feel more free to be more extravagant with “trends” when in the subculture. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music and fashion? Yeah for sure. I think, like I said, people feel like they can be more daring with what they wear when compared to everyday and not feel as judged. It’s more accepting and less judgemental as what it is wearing those kinds of clothes everyday. Why are you a part of the subculture, and how does it make you feel? I’m a part of it because…I’ve sort of grown up surrounded by electronic music, and my taste has just developed over the years. I feel more at home when I’m listening to it, like it’s some of the only tracks that can give me goosebumps when I listen to it. I feel like it resonates with me personally better than any other kind of genre. Are there any particular shops that you purchase from? Hmm…not really anymore, I more shop in charity shops and eBay. But if I were to purchase from anywhere, probably like Urban Outfitters or Motel Rocks Are there any particular brands that you purchase from? Doc Martens, Nike or Converse for trainers, I look up to more menswear kind of brands like Saint Laurent too, but I can’t afford to purchase from them. I can’t really think of any particular brands really. A lot of my clothes are just second hand or vintage Do you feel like you could walk down the street and be able to point out people who go to Subbie? Again, it depends on the group. The stylish ones, yes definitely…but sometimes, you can just tell by like, the cut of their trousers or something like that. I feel like you definitely can, but maybe not everyone. Do you dress for yourself, or for other people? I would say that I mostly dress for me, because I will only buy things that I feel comfortable and confident wearing. But I do probably adjust my style to fit in with the friends I’m hanging 90

out with – like I’ll try harder when I know I’m going to be hanging out with a particular group. So yeah…that’s a hard one, probably a little bit of both.

I.T. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? For me, confidence. I feel confident when I listen to it, I love it. What genre do you identify yourself with most? Electronic, techno, and indie are my top 3

Would you perceive your style to be different when you’re attending these events compared to what you wear in everyday life? Well yeah, I don’t wear fully leather outfits when I go to uni but I would wear them when I go to electronic music events. I have a style that I wear every day, and a style that I wear to electronic music events. But I still think that both of them are quite alternative? Do you feel a pressure to present yourself a certain way when you’re attending electronic music events? Yeah I think it’s, more of a self-pressure. A social pressure as well, but I think you wouldn’t go, I don’t know, well for me I wouldn’t go out in jeans and a normal top when I’m going to an electronic music event, just because you see people who are dressed in an alternative way and they’re dressed quite differently. And you want to stand out, and you wouldn’t achieve that with jeans. Would you say it’s a safe space to be whoever you want to be? Yeah also to feel more comfortable. Be yourself, but around other people. And it feels good when someone comes up to you and says “those are really cool pants” or “those are really cool shoes”. Would you say that there’s a pressure to be investing into any particular brands in the subculture? Erm…No I guess…that’s more personal maybe? Maybe they promote certain brands as something that’s associated with electronic music? Like you might associate one brand with electronic music, but you wouldn’t associate another, like you wouldn’t associate New Look, but you would associate some clothes that you would find at Urban Outfitters. I think, that’s more personal. It’s about how you dress and how you go out. Are there any brands that you associate with electronic music that you can list off? Well…there’s some independent shops and probably vintage shops too. I would associate Cahart, like if you go to Sub Club everyone’s wearing Supreme or Anti-Social Social-Club, kind of streetwear kind of brands. If you went to Bamboo or Kokomo, would you dress yourself in a different way than you would if you went to Subbie? Well…at the start I used to do that, to dress differently, but then I realised that I wasn’t comfortable in those clothes. But yeah, if you were, I don’t know, there can be pros and cons as well because if you dress in a different way when you go to Bamboo, and you’re wearing something that you would wear on an electronic music night out, everyone would look at you in a different way and that would have pros and cons. But I don’t think now I would do that. I would just dress the way I do normally. Do you feel a need to dress a particular way to fit in with your friends who also listen to electronic music? Erm…I guess, I don’t know, when I moved here and I didn’t have any friends, I still had quite an alternative style but that’s what was considered alternative in Italy, but here it was pretty normal. Then, when I started going out with people who went to art school, to Sub Club, La Cheetah wherever. I did change my style, but not because I thought “oh I wouldn’t be accepted” if I didn’t change my style, but because I realised that I really liked that style, and I felt more confident in those clothes. So, it’s not about…so I guess there is a bit of social pressure into that. But also, a bit of self-fulfilment? Something like, I don’t know, you feel good in yourself 92

when you’re wearing those kinds of clothes. And because my friends like those kinds of clothes, so… You said that you feel quite free in the way that you dress, would you say that they encourage you to embrace the personal aspects of your style? Yeah totally. Well those kinds of friends, that’s the main thing. Let’s say I have two different groups of friends, the ones that I go to Sub Club with, and the ones you go to Mango and Bamboo with. And, when I dress in a certain way with the Bamboo kind of friends, they’re more like “where the fuck did you get that? Where did you get those clothes?” or “that’s a bit weird”. Whereas if I’m wearing the same sort of clothes with the other group of friends, they’re like “wow that’s really cool, where did you buy it?”. Do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? I do yeah. You know how she’s quite flashy in the ways that she expresses the brands that she likes, would you say that, the way she’s so expressive about her brand choices, do you think that puts an influence on her followers and to the subculture? Yeah definitely. I think the main DJs and the main celebrities’ kind of, are part of this environment definitely influence the way we dress as people who follow them. For example, in Italy, or when you go to Berlin, and you see how other people dress or the DJs, let’s say the bouncer outside Berghain, when I’m in Berlin and I’m going to a techno night, I need to wear black, or I need to wear this kind of clothes. So yeah, I think celebrities and the influencers definitely have an impact. Do you only associate yourself with the electronic music subculture when you’re attending events? Or do you think that you almost show an association with that subculture in your everyday life? I think it’s every day. Yeah like, the way I dress, and I listen to that music when I’m alone in my room and when I’m studying. I go and buy vinyl’s and I think it’s just a bit of myself now. Do you think it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic music subculture, or do you think it’s quite hard to merge into in terms of style? Well, that depends on the place you are. Because if you’re in Italy, it’s quite, it’s like an elite thing? Like just certain people can be part of the subculture, and just certain people listen to certain music and they dress in a certain way, they kinda look at other people and look down on them. Whereas in Glasgow, it’s just you go to the club and you can be friends with literally everybody, and all you need to do is share the same taste in music and sometimes, I went to a lot of nights in Sub Club where people didn’t even know the artist, like they’re just going for the brand. And I think its way, way more including here than it is in other places. I think it’s quite an elite thing in Berlin too. So, do you think it’s like, you went into Subbie, and you’ve never been before, and you don’t really know what to wear clothes-wise. Would you say that clothes that people wear to Subbie is quite easy to invest into, and quite easy to imitate to blend in? Yeah, I guess so. Maybe just certain people care about the way that you dress, I remember going with my brother and my brother doesn’t even like techno music. And he went in these jeans and a jumper and nobody gave a fuck. And I guess it’s quite easy, the way I dress is not to conform or because I saw it somewhere else, it’s just because I saw something, and I liked it so I’m going to wear it. 93

Do you wear the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or because it resonates with the subculture? I guess both. It depends on where I am I guess. If your friends were investing in particular brand of clothing, which for example you thought was too expensive or unaffordable, would you feel a pressure or desire purchase that clothing or maybe a cheaper alternative in order to fit in? Yeah I really feel like we have that pressure right now. Like I remember when I used to go out with people from art school and all of those sorts of people, and they would be buying from END, and obviously I’m a student and I can’t afford it. And they were shopping there because they either worked for them or modelled for them, or they had other jobs so they could afford those kinds of clothes. And I did want them, but it was way too expensive for me. So you still feel the pressure. I think that’s also why, I was talking to my friend the other day, that’s also why Aliexpress is so popular nowadays because you can take a picture of the actual product, and then you can find the cheaper Chinese version of that. So now, everyone’s buying from Aliexpress because they can find the cheaper version of expensive brands. Do you feel like the the Glaswegian electronic subculture in particular can differentiate themselves in terms of the way they dress, when compared against other cities? Yeah I think here, it’s more about, I don’t know if it’s even correct but the way I see it, there’s more vintage stuff. Like we do buy more vintage stuff here, and we try to kinda, resemble the 90s style, except from places like, I always differentiate in my mind places like Sub Club to any other place in Glasgow electronic-wise. Because I feel like Sub Club is more, Supreme and streetwear kind of clothing. Whereas when you go to Art School or Berkeley Suite, nobody really cares how you dress. They are more about the weirdest thing they can find in the vintage shop. That’s also different from Italy, and Germany, and wherever I went. Because there, it’s way more about the expensive brands and like Supreme. Would you say when you’re talking about Subbie, and it’s very streetwear orientated, would you say it’s almost like elitist sort of way? Yeah…yeah. I like Subbie because they have the best DJs, but the atmosphere when you’re in there, you feel like there’s more pressure there. Like a kind of elitism. If you went to an electronic music event in another country that you’ve never been to before, would you feel concerned about not fitting in amongst the crowd there? Well yeah, for example, we were in Barcelona, going to a techno event in Spain ever. And all of our group put thought into what we are wearing. One of my friends, she’s really not into techno and wears very “normal” clothes, even her she was like “oh should I wear some of your clothes because I feel like I’m not fitting in”. So yeah, even just the genre of music, puts you under the pressure of what to wear. Okay cool. Do you feel like you have a freedom to express your style, or do you feel like there’s still trends that people tend to follow? It’s a bit of both. Like, you are under pressure wearing certain styles, but also at the same time, nobody cares so…

Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? 94

Yeah definitely. I don’t even know how to expand on it, but definitely. I feel like every kind of music you listen to, but in particular, but if you listen to techno you dress a certain way. I can’t understand that in our minds, but people who have a similar taste in music also have a similar taste in clothes. I don’t know, it’s a bit weird. Like why does that happen? It’s not like because I feel like if I don’t wear those clothes then I won’t be accepted, it’s just because I naturally gravitate towards those clothes. Would you define the electronic subculture in Glasgow to stand out in terms of brands? Or is there any unique aspects compared to other cities? Yeah it’s kinda like what I said, like we like to wear the most extravagant thing in a vintage shop, well that’s how I kind of see it anyways. But there’s also the familiarity when you go to events here against when you go to other techno events. Like I’ve been to the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, Spain, France to these techno raves. But I think France is quite similar to the UK in general, like everyone was wearing the most extravagant thing. Like there was this guy who was wearing this kind of red swim suit with sparkly things? But that’s the kind of things that you would see in art school. Everybody was just loving him and complimenting his suit. And that’s what happens in Glasgow too, it’s just the familiarity of the thing. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? I guess it was because I started liking the music, and I started liking how it feels to go out with your friends because you feel, like when I was in first year and going to Bamboo, and you have to dress a certain way because you have to pull someone. You feel like you’re going to these places just to hit on people, or to be hit on. And I think I feel more pressure going to those places because that’s not me, and I don’t feel comfortable. Whereas when I’m going on an electronic night out, it’s because I’m interested in the artist and it’s because I love dancing to that music or you can even dance by yourself, like nobody is going to ask, “what are you doing?”. I guess just the atmosphere and the music. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? I buy a lot from Monki, I’ve stopped buying from Urban actually, I buy a lot from vintage shops, I have a lot of Cahartt things, and…I don’t know because I’m trying to give up a lot of fast fashion brands, so I choose Monki because they’re the most ethical one, and vintage shops and Cahartt. Are there any brands that you trust like Cahartt? Monki is definitely my first choice. Would you be able to walk down Buchanan Street and point out people who are a part of the subculture? It’s such a typical thing to go on Sauchiehall street and see a group of people and say that they are art school students, you know? You can definitely see the short pants, and the socks and the shoes. Even if they’re not carrying a massive canvas about with them, you can definitely tell them apart and that they go to Art School or La Cheetah or whatever. Do you feel like the trends that emerge in the electronic subculture run parallel to the trends that you see in the high street? I think they are quite connected, because more people have started to listen. A few years ago, not many people listened to techno music but that has started to grow. You see more people wearing these kinds of clothes, so I think they’re closely connected.

Last question, would you say that you dress for yourself or for others? That’s hard…I would say it’s me 80% and others 20%. Me because I want to feel comfortable, but also 20% because I want people to be like “oh she’s cool”. Like I love it when people come up to me and compliment the way I dress.

J.D. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT So the first question is how would you define electronic music? In any sort of words that come to mind. Can be more than one? Ooh…Probably something like…Happiness? Yeah definitely What genre do you listen to most? House. Definitely house. When you come to Glasgow, what clubs do you tend to go to the most? The top two are Subbie and La Cheetah. And when you come to Glasgow to these clubs, would you perceive your style to be different to how you dress everyday? No. Are there any key brands that you can identify within the electronic subculture in Glasgow? Ooh…I’d probably, off the top of my head, the ones that stand out are ones like Fila, I don’t know why. More like sportswear brands. Do you feel like there’s any sort of pressure to present yourself a certain way when you attend electronic music events? I don’t feel a pressure, but I do want to dress a certain way. It’s not, a pressure, it’s more what I want to do, rather than feeling like there’s a need to do it for someone? Say if you were going to a more mainstream club, would you wear the same clothes to that as you would if you were going to Subbie or somewhere? Yes I would, I’d wear the same clothes to most of the places I go to. Do you feel any sort of pressure to dress a certain way to fit in with your friends who are also a part of the electronic subculture? No I don’t. Do you follow the likes of Peggy Gou on Instagram? Yes I do. Are you aware of how she’s quite flashy with the brands she wears? Yes, yes Do you think her being so open and expressive about the brands she supports, whether that influences her listeners to dress in a similar way? Oh definitely, definitely. The platform she has, especially within the last year, 6 months, it’s very very interesting. There’s a tweet I saw, she released a new collection with Nike, and somebody tweeted saying “guaranteed this is how everyone is going to dress at raves for the next year or two”. The platform she has, she can definitely has the space to influence that and people will dress the way that she does as well.

Do you say you would only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re attending events? Or do you feel like you almost show a constant association with the subculture in everyday life? Eh… everyday life. Do you think it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture, or whether it’s quite hard for someone to merge into if they were new to the scene? Personally, I didn’t find it hard, but I think I could understand why. Like some people are really outgoing and confident in the culture, whereas I feel like if it’s more of an acquired person, that could be quite intimidating? Like the way that we dress, I feel like some people might not understand it as well? So yeah, for me personally, no but for other people, I could understand it being intimidating. Would you say that you dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style, or because it resonates with the electronic subculture that you associate yourself with? Hmm good question…can I say both? I think I’m quite an outgoing person, so I also believe, and being in the electronic scene, I do love dance music. So I think that goes hand in hand with both. If your friends were investing in a particular brand of clothing, would you feel any pressure to invest in that brand in order to fit in? Nah, I just buy what I want to buy. Do you feel like it’s relatively easy to merge into the electronic subculture in the way that people dress? Yes, I do. Because you can buy stuff on Depop pretty cheap. You can do it, like you could do it through Urban Outfitters and the big brands and it would be expensive. But you could definitely do it through Depop and stuff like that for cheaper. Would you say that the electronic subculture is quite an expressive space, or would you say that there’s elements of judgement? Very much expressive. You’re allowed to be yourself I would say, definitely. Have you been abroad to any house events? Or even Edinburgh? Yeah I could compare it more to Edinburgh – I go to like Cab Vol, Sneaky Pete’s, La Belle Ange, Mash House and all that. Definitely my favourite is Sneaky’s though. Would you say that the crowd that go to Cab Vol when compared against the people that go to Subbie, would you say that they dress similarly? Or differently? I think they do dress similar. Would you say again, it’s more the kinda sportswear idea? Yeah, it’s like bright colours, sportswear, big brands, vintage or retro clothing. A lot of patterns and nice shoes. You wouldn’t see anyone going in like a nice dress or something. It’s more like, disco pants or something like that. But I think people in Edinburgh dress more for the image and about branded stuff. Whereas people in Glasgow, they’re a bit rougher, maybe grimier? But in general, the clothes are a lot…baggier?

If you were going to, for example, back to Berlin now, and you were planning to go out, would you be concerned about how you would dress and whether you’d fit in amongst their subculture? No, I would just wear what I would wear here. The exact same.

So would you say that the subculture, whether there’s a freedom to express your style, or whether there’s still trends within it? I think, there are still trends in the subculture, but it’s more about expressing yourself. I think it’s about expressing yourself through the retro, vintage clothing. It doesn’t matter what sort of clothing it is, as long as it’s like, older or patterned or bright colours. It’s not like, some people care about the names, but I don’t think many people actually care. There definitely are still trends, but it’s more about how people style them. In a vintage or retro way. Would you say that there’s a strong association between electronic music and fashion? Yes I would. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? Why am I part of it? Hmm…good question…because when you go to the events, everyone’s there for a good time. Nobody is there to fight. Everybody looks out for each other. It’s very rare that you find people who are there to ruin your night or start a fight…and… people are always looking out for each other and stuff like that, and I think there’s a special connection there, compared to your normal clubs. Is there specific stores that you purchase from? ASOS, Depop, Urban Outfitters, Size?, eh…what else…I think that’s covered pretty much everywhere. I used to shop in Primark because it was cheap, but it was shit quality. Is there any brands that you go back to? That you trust? The one that I do love is North Face. I like a lot of climbing and mountaineering stuff as well, they recently released a new collection, it’s like all sorts of purpley bluey black with patterns and stuff across it. I was trying to save my money but I was like “nope!”. If you were walking down the street, do you think you would be able to point out people who are also a part of the electronic subculture? Yes. They like to stand out, but in their own way. They’re not standing out and being flashy about it, but more because they’re different? Rather than wearing big name brands. And the clothes tend to be more baggier. But I would that would be a general term for some people. And final question, would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? I dress for myself.

J.K. DISSERTATION TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? Eh…I guess I would say that electronic music, at it’s simplest, is any music that is made…entirely electronically. But that obviously has like digital instruments and software and blah blah blah. But that’s obviously changed in recent times. What genres would you say that you identify yourself with the most? Probably house music, disco, funk, erm…drum and bass, techno. So would you perceive your style to be different when you go out and attend these events when compared against how you would dress in everyday life? I would say probably not, just because when I’m going to those kinds of events to listen to that kind of music, I’m more dressing for the fact that I’m going to be doing quite a lot of dancing and I’ll probably be quite…sweaty. So I don’t want to wear like, an outfit that I’ve put that much thought and care into because it’ll get ruined in drink and sweat and just, dirt in general. Do you think that there’s any sort of pressure to portray yourself a certain way through clothing when attending electronic music events? Eh I would say that there definitely is, like the vast majority are not there to judge anyone based on their appearance or what they choose to wear. But I do think there is an increasing amount of people who have a sense of…elitism? And they maybe say that people who dress a certain way are ruining the atmosphere for them. Like spiceboys and all that. Is that more people who wear brands? Yeah like certain brands that people associate, they wouldn’t want them in the club. Or I don’t know, style of clothes. Things that are maybe a little more popular on the high street. Is there any brands that you can think off from the top of your head that you can associate with those people? Em…Zara, but then also things like Gucci belts and shoes, Balenciaga, just generally skinnytype fitting clothes that are from places like Zara or high fashion that they can access. So if you were going out for example, to a place like Kokomo, would you wear the same outfit as you would to Sub Club as you would to Kokomo? Probably not. But that’s because if I was going to a place like Kokomo, either way it would be different from what I would wear in day to day life. But, I probably would try and look what I’d perceive as “cooler” when I’m going to somewhere like Sub Club, because for whatever reason I’d have in my head that I’m trying to impress someone in Sub Club, whereas in Kokomo I care less about what the people think there. Whether that’s my own subconscious though or not, I wouldn’t say it’s a general rule. 100

Do you feel any sort of pressure to dress in a particular way to fit in with your friend group who are also really into electronic music too? Eh…speaking for me and my friend group, probably not because I think we’re quite a large group, and I think because it’s music that a lot of people listen to and I go to a lot of events with various different people of different ages and social circles and, nobody does really pass comment unless it’s just to be like “oh I like what you’re wearing”. All of our friends dress quite in their own style anyways, so.

Do you follow, or are you aware of the type of posts that Peggy Gou uploads to Instagram? Em…I’ve certainly noticed things that she’s worn, and thought “oh she looks cool, I like that dress” or whatever. But I’ve never looked into it in any more detail than that. Basically, the question stems on from that as well, and it’s whether you think that the way she’s so expressive in her fashion and what she wears on Instagram, and whether you think that would have an influence on the people that listen to her music and how they decide to dress? Yeah absolutely because everyone does takes influence from people who inspire them or surrounded by or whatever. And if they see her wearing something, chances are they’re gonna want to wear something like that too if they like it. I think that’s a thing with a lot of people, but especially Peggy Gou as she’s a well…not marketed but she’s got a very good social media presence. And she’s clearly styled by someone, to some extent, or maybe has some sort of person helping her. So do you only associate yourself with electronic music and the electronic subculture when you’re attending events? Or do you feel like you constantly show that association in everyday life? Eh I don’t think I necessarily show it through what I wear, because I guess, similar to what I was saying, a lot of the people that I go to these events with all dress differently anyways. But none of us dress up for these events as such, we maybe think more about what we wear, but we don’t necessarily dress up for them. Do you feel like it’s quite easy to feel like a member of the electronic music subculture, or whether it’s difficult to merge into and feel like a part of it if you’re brand new to it? Eh, I mean they may feel out of place. But I guess its just, their own self-conciousness about it but if they actually were there and they got speaking to a lot of these people who go to these events, for the most part, nobody would be like “oh that guy doesn’t look like us” and it wouldn’t hinder them from breaking in and meeting with people in the culture and getting on with them. But I think that, it’s a fairly accessible subculture. Would you say that there is more, in that sense, people would feel more like a self-pressure than a peer-pressure? Yeah, although…there’s maybe some, well I guess this isn’t, but yeah some of the events that are electronic at like, The Art School and Magic City…and those kinds of nights I think because, compared to electronic music, the culture in the art school where fashion is a thing, and in hip hop where fashion is a lot more of a staple in the culture, people do make more of an effort to dress up there and in that kind of night in the subculture, you might dress up more because your outfit is more of a statement on those nights. But it might be harder to break in 101

that way, but with things with house music and techno, I don’t think there’s much of an issue with that. Would you say that you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because they resonate more with your personal style and what you like, or because it resonates with the electronic subculture that you associate yourself with? I would say, for all the reasons I’ve said already, it is more about my personal taste than what it is to do with the music. I just, yeah.

If your friends were investing into a particular brand of clothing, that you technically couldn’t afford or something along that lines, would you feel a pressure or a desire to purchase into either like, a cheaper alternative to that brand or style of clothing in order to fit in? Em…I wouldn’t say in order to fit in? I would say that, for instance, I saw something that I couldn’t afford and has a certain style, for example a red flannel shirt and is by one brand, but I would look for something that was similar to it and dress similarly, but from another brand like maybe like ASOS or somewhere like that. Would you say that it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in the way that you dress? Yes. Would you say that the subculture that exists in Glasgow, do you think that they dress differently when compared to Edinburgh or Amsterdam or places like that? I think, that the styles regionally aren’t as far away as they used to be because people are all shopping from the same places because it’s all online and it’s all on Instagram and whatever. For instance, a lot of the same promoters in Edinburgh, Amsterdam, Glasgow wherever, they’re booking the same acts. So, it’s all very similar, nothing’s really that different. We can get the same clothes, we can listen to the same people, the world’s much more connected so I don’t think regional styles are as big of a thing. So you went to like, Dekmantel, so when you were going to that, did you feel like you had to think about your outfit more and what you were wearing because you would be in another country and you wanted to feel like you wanted to fit into their electronic subculture? I guess a wee bit, because Dekmantel do a collaboration with a brand called Patta, and they’re just one small example I mean, for the most part, I had to dress for being in a warmer country and for going to a festival, no matter what the music was. But I think because I saw those clothes, and because it was a collaboration between Patta and Dekmantel, I wanted to buy that because I suppose, we saw that’s what quite a lot of other people were wearing and it’s a popular brand, and because it was from the festival as merchandise and I just, wanted it as a memento I guess. So, being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel like there’s a freedom to express style, or do you still think that its trend driven? I think there’s definitely a lot of freedom to express your own personal style, and you will probably see that wherever you go more than we used to. Certainly more in the likes of 102

Kokomo, that’s more trend driven. But, when I’ve been to nights in the Art School or Berkeley suite, you see people wearing some quite, out there almost more, runway-like styled stuff. People are less afraid to dress outrageously in these kinds of places. So would you say that there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Yeah. Why are you a part of the electronic subculture and how does it make you feel? I guess just because I like the music and I’ve been listening to it for a very long time before I was a part of the subculture, because I used to just listen to it in my house before I was old enough to go out. But, yeah I guess it’s primarily the music, and also for leisure as when you’re old enough you can go to clubs and you can go to gigs. And you meet likeminded people at those kinds of places, so it’s good. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? I do a lot of online shopping for certain brands, so like skate shops or, I can’t really think of names of the top of my head. Carhart, Route 1, Urban Outfitters, ASOS, END, Flatspot, and then, Pieute. I can’t think of other ones, that’s about it. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? For myself.

103

J.M. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? Like digital stuff, anything that’s been made not analogue What genre of electronic music would you say you identify with most? I don’t know, it’s difficult to say. The shit I listen to is…I don’t want to say trap? Could you name some artists that you listen to? Sam Gelatry, Mr Cormack, more like Soundcloud DJs and underground artists When you go out in Glasgow, where do you normally go/for what music? Erm…if anywhere in Glasgow was playing music that I just mentioned, then I would go there. But if not it’s all kinda house, I go to Flat 01, mainly Flat 01, if not Buff Club Looking at the perception from Flat 01, would you perceive your style to be any different from when you go out than how you dress yourself every day? Not really, but if I was going out to a club that was playing that sort of music, I would probably dress differently. I would dress less…like…out there. So say if you were going to Bamboo…Garage…would you say that you dress differently…you just said that. Do you feel like when you go to Flat 01, would you say that you feel a greater pressure to present yourself in a more out-there way, or is it more personal choice? Yeah personal choice defo. There’s still loads of people who would not dress like that, more normally. But it is more of a place that you can just dress like that and not have prying eyes on you. Would you say that there’s any brands in particular that come to the top of your mind when you think of these places? I don’t wear it, but a lot of sportswear. Like Adidas Originals and Fila. If you were hanging out with the friends you go to Flat 01 with in a different situation, would you feel the same pressure to dress in a certain way to fit in with these people?

104

I don’t know. Not really had the situation, so…I’m unsure. I’m not sure if I’m getting that question right? Let me reword it…do you feel a need to invest into certain brands in order to fit in with your friends? Nah, definitely not. Okay cool. Would you say, do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? Yeah. Do you think that her very extravagant way of showing off brands is a strong influence on the electronic subculture’s desire to invest into bigger brands? Yeah. I think it was kinda there before influencers. Actually, nah I take that back. I think it was always there, and there was always kinda of a scene that like, not like designer labels, but more streetwear labels and sportswear. I think that was always there. Do you only associate with being a member of the electronic subculture when you’re attending events, or would you say that you feel a constant need to show association to the subculture in everyday life? Like…I feel like you always feel a need to sort of associate yourself with things. It only really comes to mind when I’m listening to music, that’s why I don’t feel a need to show it off. Well not show it off…involve it in other things that aren’t to do with that. For me it’s more about the music. Would you say if you wanted to be a member of the electronic subculture, that it’s an easy group to merge yourself into in the way that you dress? Yeah probably. But I think if you went dressed like you were going to another club, I think it would be harder to socialise, people would just like look down on you a wee bit because they would think that you’re not actually into it or something. Which is kinda…shite….it’s pretty bad in that sense. Would you say that you dress yourself in the clothes that you wear because it resonates with your personal style, or because it resonates with the friend group that you associate yourself with. Nah personal style. Cause well you know what it’s like, no one would dress anything like that back home [Inverness], and that still doesn’t stop us from dressing differently. Okay so for example, if your friends were investing in a particular brand, which you technically couldn’t afford, would you feel a pressure or desire to purchase that clothing? Or a cheaper alternative, in order to fit in? Only if I liked what it was, it doesn’t really make a difference if they’re all buying it. Only if I like it. Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture in particular can differentiate themselves in terms of style when compared to other places like Berlin or Manchester or Edinburgh? I feel like Berlin is a lot like…miles ahead in terms of lots of different personal styles. Whereas Glasgow probably can’t really differentiate themselves. I don’t really have a lot of experience with places in England, but I reckon it’s pretty similar. There’s more like….brands in Glasgow. 105

If you went to an electronic music event in another country, would you feel concerned about standing out through what you wore because you’re not merging in with their electronic subculture? Not really but I kinda want to push it more and wear more out-there things because of it and because I can get away with it. So would you say there’s more freedom to express yourself? Yeah, well compared to here. Would you say that the clothes that are commonly seen in the subculture follow the same trend patterns that you see on the high street? Erm…the high street kinda follows on from it. Wait I don’t know, it’s just kinda there. Urban Outfitters will always have stuff that you’ll see on a night out if you’re going to these venues, more so than what you see in Kokomo or Bamboo. So maybe yeah, but maybe more limiting on it. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Erm…yeah I guess so. There definitely is. I don’t know, it’s definitely there. Can you point out any unique aspects of Glasgow that makes it different from other cities in terms of style? I don’t really have a lot of experience, I mean I can compare it against other cities in Scotland? Aberdeen is also very fun and there’s a big techno scene there. But Glasgow has…I don’t know, the people, there’s like a bigger circulation of people of who you’re going out with which is always good. There’s always a need or desire for it in Glasgow. Why would you say that you’re a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? I dunno…it’s fun because you can go out and enjoy the music rather than going out just for going out. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? Charity shops, Weekday, TK Maxx…I got a speaker out of there today, good steal. Urban Outfitters…I dunno Is there any brands that you tend to buy from again and again because you have a sense of trust from them? Brands and stores? Both Yeah I don’t know, I only really buy stuff if it’s on sale. But I dunno, old brands from charity shops, like old designer ones. Is there any in particular that really highlight to you? YSL, Polo, not so much Hilfiger anymore, I used to be really into it. Oh Kangol! Do you feel like fashion is an important way for people who are in the subculture to express themselves? So would you be able to walk down the street and say “they listen to techno, they go to flat 01 etc”? I don’t know. More like…I don’t know, you couldn’t really differentiate between other scenes because it’s becoming more integrated, so like…same with people who go to like more gigs 106

and stuff, they still dress pretty similar to people who…I wouldn’t be able to pick out people and say they’re not involved in the scene, but still involved in like going out and stuff. Just different music and stuff. Final question: Would you say that you dress for yourself or for others? For myself. Well I don’t really know what that means, I don’t dress because I see people and think “that’s cool”, although I’m still influenced by that, if I see something and think it’s cool then I’d wear it…well I don’t know. So it’s like…I don’t dress because of what other people think is cool, more to what I think is cool.

J.T. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music, any words that come to mind? This is going to sound weird, but when I listen to electronic music I just feel free, like you can do whatever and be whatever you wanna be. When you’re going out, what style of music do they normally play? I normally go to techno places, or Spanish music places. But it depends on where I am, like in Scotland there’s a lot of electronic music places, but in Spain it’s quite hard to find them. It’s more Spanish and Latin music. But if there was more choice of electronic clubs in Spain, I would definitely go. Would you say that when you’re going out tom electronic clubs in Glasgow, that you would dress yourself differently to how you would in everyday life? Oh yeah. I think you can wear whatever you want. People are not going to judge you there, they want to have fun and party. They’re not going to judge you like “oh my god look at that girl”. Like one time I went out in my work uniform, but that’s alright because people don’t care. What clubs do you go to in Glasgow? Mostly Flat 0/1 mostly because it’s free, but also sub club, la cheetah, and some raves Do you feel like there’s a pressure to present yourself through brands or anything like that? I think it depends on the club you’re going to, like for example flat 01 is really dark, so people won’t tell you anything and the same as raves, because people are just like crazy there. But maybe in Sub Club, you can see more people wearing brands and cool stuff. And I feel like flat 01 you can wear like anything. Is there any brands that stand out to you when you go to Sub Club? 107

Maybe like Supreme, more streetwear sort of stuff. If you were going on a night out to Bamboo, would you dress yourself differently than what you would wear if you were going to Flat 0/1? Uhu. Yeah, I think like, I don’t know how to explain it, but if I was going to Bamboo I would have more of a “blogger” style, more like girly, not heels because I never wear heels not like Scottish girls. But I just wear something more girly. But for electronic clubs, I would probably wear something like…I don’t know how you call it, like your style, more sort of “out there” and different? Do you feel like you need to dress a certain way when you’re going out with the friends that you go to Flat 0/1 with? With my friends? Because I’m influenced by then? Yeah. Well I can understand why some people might feel pressure, but not with my friends because I feel like there’s a lot of diversity, and everyone dresses like so so different. So we’re so used to it, and we don’t feel a pressure. Do you follow the likes of Peggy Gou on Instagram? No…but if you show me her, I might know her. This is her, she’s very flaunty with her brands on Instagram, so what the question was whether you feel like her expression of the brands she wears influences people in the subculture to wear those kinds of clothes? Oh yeah definitely. If I’m going to see her, I would want to dress like her. I feel like people would be influenced like that. Even if you went to a Billie Elish concert, you would dress kinda more like her style. You wouldn’t want to dress out of place for the person you’re seeing. If you’re walking down the street, would you say you would be able to point out people who go to like Sub Club or Flat 0/1? Yeah definitely. Not all of them of course, cause maybe if you saw me right now you wouldn’t be like “oh my god this girl goes to flat 0/1”, but there are definitely some people you can point out. Would you say that when you’re going out, that it’s quite easy to fit in by the way that they’re dressing? Would you feel out of place if you dressed in a particular way, or do you think there’s some freedom in the way that you dress? Well it depends where you’re going, I think it’s easy to fit here, but at the same time, if you went wearing what you were wearing at Bamboo, people would think “oh that’s weird”, but they wouldn’t really care? People just go there to have fun, and people are drunk, so I don’t think in that moment that people really care, at least not for me. Like I like to go and have fun with my friends, like If I see a really nice outfit, I will be like “oh my god I love it” but if not, I wouldn’t say anything. Would you say that you choose the clothes that you wear to clubs because it resonates with your personal style? Or because it resonates with the style of the subculture? I think it has to be 50/50, like of course I want to represent myself and have my own style, but at the same time if people wear different things to the place that I’m going, I’ll take that but incorporate my own style. 108

If your friends were investing in a particular brand of clothing, would you feel like a pressure to invest in that brand of clothing as well? Or if it was expensive, would you invest in a cheaper alternative? I think it depends what kind of friends you have. I’ve been really lucky with the friends I have because they don’t really judge you, you never feel the pressure that “you should buy this, you should be wearing that” they just don’t care. I think that if my friends are always talking about a brand, or always wearing a brand, like I think I will see that brand and think “oh I should get that as well”. But of course imagine all my friends have Balenciagas, I would be like “oh well! Can I borrow them?” because I can’t afford them. I will try, but if I can’t that’s alright and they’re not going to judge me if I don’t have those pairs of shoes. Have you been to any techno-style events in other countries or cities? I think two weeks ago we went to Toulouse in France, and we went to a techno club and it was crazy. Like we had a lot of fun. Would you say that the way that the people dressed there was different to how people dressed in Glasgow? Yeah, like…I can’t really remember, because I was so in the moment. But I know that when I went outside, people were dressed really cool. But at the same time, people were wearing like, basic clothes. Also, I went to many techno clubs and festivals in Spain, and I feel like people dress really differently from here. Would you say it’s more laidback than here? Yeah I prefer the style in Glasgow much more. I don’t know, like it’s more stylish people here. They all wore the same things all the time. Is it more of a trend-driven thing over there then? Not trend, more basic. They just stay in the basic, I feel like if you wore something different, people are going to judge you. It’s more like, basic normal things. Like they don’t want to express or highlight their personality. They express it, but not too much. For example, I don’t care and I do it. But every time I do it, my friends are like “oh my god that’s so ugly”. But here I wear something and it’s normal and other people are wearing it as well. Like for example, the hair clips, if I wore that in Spain, people would be like laughing at me and say “what are you doing?”. But here, you can go to like Urban and see it and people will say “oh that’s really cool”. Would you say people embrace creativity more here? Yeah for sure. For example, I posted a photo with the hair clips, and my friend were texting me being like “I can’t, that’s so funny”. They’re just not used to it, they’re closeminded. Before you went out in Toulouse, did you think about what you were going to wear and were you concerned about not fitting in with the crowd there? I think I didn’t. I wanted to wear something cool, but I think I was just wearing normal clothes, like the clothes I was wearing to Flat 0/1. I didn’t think about it because people there are so chill and so nice. I really like the environment there, people are so nice and not going to care about what you’re wearing.

109

When you’re going to electronic music venues, would you say that people embrace a freedom to express their style? Or would you say that there’s still trends within that people still tend to follow and is influenced by fashion? I don’t really know how to answer this because we always follow trends. But at the same time I think that people are following those trends, but doing your own style and creativity. And from those trends, you can do what you want from them and do more creative things. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music and fashion? Yeah. Even now, you can see that even more. Like the trends that are in right now, you can find them more in the techno clubs. I don’t know I think people see those trends and think they’re really cool. How does the subculture make you feel? It makes me feel alright. Good connotations? Yeah it always makes me feel good. I don’t know if it’s just me, it just makes me feel happy. What are the reasons you go to those clubs? I feel really free, I feel like I can do whatever I want and people aren’t going to judge you, you can go crazy and jump around and do whatever. And you’re going to be alright. I also think that there’s a really good environment and the people are really nice. Like I like to talk to people, so I can just go and talk to people and they’re going to be nice as well. It makes me feel confident with myself because, if I went to bamboo, you would find more stuck up people, and they would be like “what are you saying? What are you doing?” but in techno clubs, people are going to embrace it.

Are there any specific stores that you purchase from? Urban, but the only thing is that it’s a bit expensive. I also go to Zara a lot. I’ve tried to stop buying from like Intitex and stuff like that, but it’s really hard. And especially because I’m from Spain and we don’t have Urban – we only have it in Madrid and Barcelona. And because of the change over to Euros, it’s more expensive. So if something is £40 for you, it’s €50 for us. And in Spain, Intitex is everywhere and there’s not a lot of creative brands. I guess Glasgow doesn’t have a lot of brands either when compared against London. I think if I lived in a place where there were more brands and shops, I would dress very differently. For example, in my wardrobe, there’s a lot of clothes that I don’t really like and in Spain it’s really hard to find those really cool brands. So everyone is wearing Intitex, so you end up buying it because if you need an outfit for going out and you can think “okay I can either wear this every time that I’m going out, or I can wear this which is different but I don’t really completely like it”. Is there any brands that you like to invest in? Like luxury brands? Anything that you feel a connection to I love Versace and Gucci. I basically really like every luxury brand. I really like Comme Des Garcons. I really like that. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? I think…It depends, for example, I think it depends on the day.

110

Does it depend on who you’re hanging out with? Yeah for example, if I’m going to meet a guy, maybe I’ll wear something more sexy for the occasion. But if I’m going with my friends, I’ll wear something a little more casual, wear a jumper with no makeup. Can I talk about Spain? Yeah go for it! I think in Spain I dress more for people, I’m always dressing really really nice, like Ilaria and all that say “Julia you dress so so different” you can even see it in my Instagram. In Spain, I always feel like I really think about what I’m wearing and I always try to look nicer. I also think it’s because I know more people there and I know I will always see someone if I’m walking down the street, and there’s also cuter guys. So I always try to look cute and here, people don’t really care and I don’t really care either. But anyways, but here, I like to dress nice for myself. At uni, I know that some people feel the pressure and they wake up really early to do their makeup and choose their outfits. And I’m just gonna wear whatever I want, but when I’m going out, I will think a little more about what I’m wearing.

K.S. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? I think that’s so hard to do right now, but I think it’s got a kind of culture around it, normally takes part in a dingy looking club with sweaty people, dressed in funky cool vintage retro kinda way. Would you say that brands are important in the subculture? I think it kinda varies, in Glasgow yes definitely. There seems to be a brand for each genre of electronic music, like if there is a certain DJ playing then you will know that there will be boys there wearing their Fila or whatever. It’s very branded. I went to some techno things in Amsterdam but people were wearing quite nice clothes, like they were dressed for going out, but it wasn’t so brand heavy. Just not to the same extent. There was quite a stark difference, I thought the same about Spain, but yeah brands I’m thinking off are Anti Social Social Club or Billionaire Boys Club. Those kinda more edgy ones. Yeah so streetwear, that sort of thing. I kinda noticed it in Spain, not so much in Amsterdam, but a lot here. What genre of electronic music do you associate with most? I like drum and bass and techno the most, but I don’t really like to associate myself with the people who go to techno events Why don’t you? 111

Because I feel like it’s become cool? Like I feel like a lot of the people who go to these events don’t go for the music, it’s quite poser, they care a lot about Ibiza and how much money they spent in Ibiza. Like you should be there to have a good time with your friends and enjoy the music, sometimes being in those spaces people are weird and shovey and don’t really respect everyone, like those people who are actually there to enjoy the music. Would you perceive your style to be different when attending electronic music events when you compare it against what you wear in everyday life? Yeah definitely. I definitely make the effort. Especially since I know that people who attend these places are really interested in fashion, and I know that fashion is quite an interesting thing so I’ll make the effort to wear something that fits the subculture but I also don’t really wear lots of branded things. What are the key brands that stick out to you in the subculture? I would say streetwear brands…like ASSC is the one that I’m seeing in my mind, Kenzo, Fila, vintage sportswear, I feel like the more obscure the brand the cooler you are. Party Chat people made this Off-White T-shirt but it says Glasgow Airport, a lot of people find that quite cool. I would like to have one but I don’t want to be associated with those people. But I think there is competition to who can wear the most obscure brand. Do you feel a pressure to present yourself a certain way through what you wear when you attend electronic music events? So that can be through the brands you’re wearing and whatnot… I think there’s a bit of pressure but I think at the same time I kind of enjoy the process of thinking of an outfit and choosing what to wear but I think it’s enjoyable. But at the same time I look at other people and the brands that they’re wearing and think that they look really cool, which is not necessarily not what makes you most fashionable or shows that you enjoy the music more than others. Yeah, definitely feel like there is a pressure. Do you think that pressure is a good or a bad pressure? Like would you feel negatively upon yourself if you went to one of these events dressed quite differently to everyone else? I think everything that has a subculture has that kinda vibe to it and also I’m the type of person who thinks that way anyways. Like I have my own style but I also don’t like to stand out in the crowd too much. So I’ll dress differently for work, differently for uni, differently for going out and things like that. I don’t think it’s necessarily bad, I think it’s just sort of a part of life. If you were attending like Bamboo, would you feel like you would have to differently than what you would when you were going to Flat 0/1/Subbie etc? Yeah I definitely feel like I would. Would you say that the more mainstream clubs care more about high st fashion when compared against electronic clubs? Yeah… well I don’t really go to those sort of clubs, but I think there’s more heels, dresses, that sort of thing. It’s a very different look anyways, and they just sort of dress differently. Do you feel like you need to dress a particular way in order to fit in with your friends who are also a part of the electronic music subculture? Yeah, well I think my friends are less brand focused. I feel like we kinda wear what we like to wear, but I definitely wear…ill kinda want to dress in to fit the culture…so I guess we kinda influence each other. 112

Would you say that your association with the electronic music subculture is present in everyday life, or would you say that it’s only visible when you’re attending events? I think it really depends. Sometimes in my every day I will wear the same clothes as I would wear to an event, but it depends what I’m doing in the everyday. Like when I go to work, I dress very differently because I kinda like to keep that separate? But my style changes, sometimes it is reflected in it, it’s not completely separate, but some days it would be like “she would definitely go to a techno event” and other days it would be like “she would not go to a techno event”. I’m quite varied, but yeah. Would you say that it is easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture, or whether it is difficult to merge into in terms of clothing? EG. Would you say that the clothes are easy to invest into, or whether there’s a barrier there? I guess it depends how much you care about, like I care about the music and the experience, so for me it’s easy to just go along and enjoy myself. However, I guess if you really wanted to feel like a part of it, you would want to invest in the brands and the clothes that everyone wears but they’re not cheap. That’s the issue. Would you say the likes of Peggy Gou influences the subculture to wear bigger brands as they are so flashy of them on their Instagram’s? Yeah probably. I think it’s very closely connected, and of course you’re going to be influenced by people who you like and want to be like. So yeah definitely. But I think that is not the most important thing. Would you say that you choose to dress in the clothes that you do because they resonate with your own personal style? Or because it resonates with how the electronic subculture dresses? I think it’s a bit of both. Like I only ever dress the way that I want to dress, but that can be influenced by other people I see, and I guess I spend a reasonable amount of time there. So if I see other people dressed in a way I like, then I’ll be influenced to dress that way as well. I think it’s hard to separate the two, because I am influenced by the subculture, and I like it, and therefore I wear it, but then some days but I’ll be influenced by something completely different. Like on a night I’m going out, I will be like “okay so this is the level that I need to dress to”. So do you dress to fit in with whatever subculture you are going to be around that day? Yeah I guess so…I don’t associate myself with those who wear like big brands, but at the same time I do want to fit in with them when I go out. If your friends were investing in a particular brand of clothing, and you couldn’t afford it, would you feel a pressure or desire to purchase a replica or similar copy in order to fit in? I think maybe if everyone had the same sort of thing. But again, ill look at someone and think “that’s pretty cool” but I’ll never want to look exactly the same as somebody else? So I’ll purposely not get it because they’ve got it. So, I’ll be inspired, but never replicate it. Because one, I don’t want to look like somebody else and two…well that’s it really. But it’ll inspire me to dress a similar way, or if a lot of people are dressing that same style, I’ll want to dress in a similar way, but not buy the exact piece of clothing. Why do you feel like you don’t want to buy the exact same piece of clothing as somebody else? 113

Because I don’t like everyone wearing the exact same thing? Like where’s your individuality? Again, I don’t like to stand out but I like to be an individual. I think that’s what personality and creativity is all about, like taking something and putting your own spin on it. Do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Yeah I think so. If you don’t put too much pressure on yourself and wear what you want to wear? From other people’s perspectives they might be judgemental of what you’re wearing if you’re not wearing something that’s not the usual. But I think if you’re clever about it then it’s easy. I think it is, but then maybe I’m not merged in enough to be in the position to say that. Like I might say it’s easy but other people might see me and think that I’ve not merged in. But I don’t know. Do you feel like the Glaswegian subculture can differentiate themselves in terms of style when compared against other cities? I would be interested to see more places from that perspective, but maybe I wasn’t tuned in enough to it? But I didn’t notice much in Berlin, like everyone looked cool but they were just in black, like not really any brands. Spain was kinda like a mixture, but again, I didn’t really notice it. In the Netherlands, again I didn’t really notice it but people were dressed in mad luminous rave print old school 90s rave things, but then there were also people in a nice skirt and a top. But I would say Glasgow is really big for brands. I think it does vary. If you went to an electronic music event in another country, would you be concerned about standing out and not fitting in amongst their crowd and how they present themselves? Yeah I think I would, I mean I’m probably only thinking this now because I’ve seen a few other places, but I would wonder “what do they wear?”. Like in Berlin they generally dress all in black, and you only get in if you’re all in black so I dressed like that. But at Awakenings [Amsterdam] they would kinda wear what we would wear here, but that wasn’t always the right vibe. So yeah, I think I would. Being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express yourself? Or would you say that the clothes people wear are trend led? There are definitely trends that people follow. But, I never really feel like a massive pressure to follow those trends. I dress to fit in, but I don’t dress to the trends. But again, for me I don’t think that’s what it’s all about? Like if someone was wearing a dress and heels, I would be like “why are you wearing that?”. To a certain extent. Would you say that the trends run parallel to fast fashion trends? Or would you say that they’re quite far apart? It’s hard to say because streetwear and high end clothing are becoming merged. So the brands that are becoming really big are the brands that you are seeing in the subculture. It’s hard to say. I think it’s merging quite a lot. Would you say that there is a big expression in individuality in these clubs? I think it would like to be, but again when I go to these places I’m a bit disappointed because everyone’s wearing the same thing? Like girls wearing these bondage-inspired outfits with cycling shorts like you see in Ibiza and I hate how that is becoming the image associated with the subculture. And the boys in Kenzo T-shirts and that’s it? For me, the music should inspire creativity and diversity – like all the DJs right now come from so many cool places and the

114

samples they play are really cool, it could be so diverse and the subculture is so diverse, so we should reflect that. Do you feel like there is an association between electronic music and the fashion that people tend to follow? Yes, I think when you think of Terminal V then you think of that. There are certain clubs that you can go to and you know that people are going to be dressed a certain way. I think there’s a big link between them. Like those seatbelt belts and luminous vests…like you do your thing and I’ll do mine. Would you say that Glasgow as a city has any unique aspects in the subculture? I think they are very trend and brand influenced. Like I think there is a lot of status and respect on the brands you’re wearing and where you got them from. I think it’s quite money orientated, even If you don’t have money. Wearing your money seems to be a big thing. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, but I’ve just noticed particularly in Glasgow when compared to Edinburgh – like Edinburgh is more grunge-y and toned down. But obviously some people will love the music and wear the brands, but I feel like those who feel like they have to invest into the brands to fit in aren’t actually there for the music. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? Because I like the music, I go to a lot of big events, and I’ve been to a few of them around Europe. And I really enjoy it, I think it’s more of an authentic experience for me than getting really dolled up and wearing a dress and heels and dancing to shite music all night long and boys trying to harass you. I just like to go for the music and that’s the biggest thing for me. Is there any specific stores you purchase from? I do love Urban Outfitters but I don’t actually buy from there a lot, I think I use it more as an inspiration because everything’s so expensive? Is there any brands in particular that you go back to because you feel like a resonance? Not really…but I guess I have a few? But I think I buy an item because I like the clothing, not necessarily for the brand? But if it’s a brand that I think is cool, then I will spend more money on it. But with the Fila and Guess…I think it’s cool, but I’m not like committed to one.

Would you say the importance of image and fashion when expressing being a part of the electronic subculture? Yes, because when you say subculture it’s not just the way you dress it’s the way you live, it’s very intertwined. I feel like it’s really strong, but you can still be a part of the subculture without looking like how the stereotypical image of the subculture might be. Without fulfilling somebody else’s image of you. I’m sure in 50 years when we look back to the subculture, it’ll be like we see the MODS and stuff. Would you be able to identify people who go to Subbie and Flat 0/1? Yeah I think so, but then I’m sure if someone looked at me I bet they wouldn’t even dare to think that I step foot in Subbie. But I think that there are people who are truly in it and they reflect it all the time. Do you dress for yourself or for others? 115

I would like to say for myself, but not really. I’m not completely dictated by other people, but at the same time I am for a certain extent, because I’m only wearing this because someone decided that it should go in a shop. Like somewhere down the line, I am being dictated by others and I do care about what other people think, but it’s more I like what I wear and I wouldn’t wear it if I didn’t like it. But I am influenced, but I still dress for myself more than others.

L.C. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? Is there any words that come to mind? Well I guess it’s a culture kind of? Like, everyone that listens to it is kind of in the same social group, I guess they dress the same. A culture I would say. What genre do you associate with most? Like in general? Yeah. Like electronic, underground, indie-pop.

116

Would you perceive yourself to dress different when attending electronic music events when compared against everyday life? Yeah definitely. Like, I have to really think about an outfit if I’m going to that kind of thing like, I want to say it’s still my style but it’s a different style, I dress more to fit in with others around me. Do you feel like there’s a pressure to present yourself a certain way through the clothes that you wear when you’re attending these events? Yeah I would say I feel more like everyone puts a lot of thought into their outfits? Like you see younger girls going out practically naked. I don’t really like that, but other people dress really cool and have more of a quirky style. I think people feel like there’s more pressure than your standard night out. Is there any particular brands that come to mind when you think of the electronic subculture? Stüssy, Nike, sporty brands. I always think of the crossover/bumbags, Doc Martens as well. I don’t personally buy brands for these sorts of things, I prefer the style of clothes that I wear rather than the brands. If you were attending a mainstream club like Bamboo, would you dress yourself differently than if you were going to like, Subbie? Yeah definitely. I feel like with Bamboo, there isn’t such a culture with it? So you can wear whatever you want, and I guess you still get judged, but there isn’t that same pressure to look a certain way. In somewhere like Subbie, everyone’s dressed quite similar, and if you were to be wearing something outside of that then you might be standing out in the wrong ways? So there is more pressure to fit in when you go to Subbie. Would you say that it’s a negative pressure you would receive? Like would you feel quite negative within yourself if you felt like you didn’t fit in? Yeah, I remember one time I went to flat 01 unexpectedly and I was dressed for somewhere like Bamboo, and I felt like “I feel like an idiot in here”. So you do feel negative in yourself. But I could go to Bamboo in casual or dressed up, and I wouldn’t feel out of place as such? Would you feel like you have to dress in a certain way to fit in with your friends who are also a part of the subculture? Yeah you definitely plan your outfits more. Like there’s more thought and there’s that inclusive thing, like you don’t want to stand out too much. But then, there’s also that thing where you want to look cool and for people to notice your outfit.

Do you follow the likes of Peggy Gou on Instagram? Yeah I do, she’s like so cool. I remember when I was seeing Jackmaster, and obviously they were in a relationship, and she came and she was wearing some sort of football top, and only she could look that cool wearing that. Would you say that the way she’s quite expressive about the brands that she wears on Instagram, would you say that influences the subculture to be investing in brands or look a certain way?

117

Yeah well she once wore, I think it was a Nigeria top? And then I noticed so many people starting to wear it. Cause she’s like, she wears things that are quite different, like not things that people would normally wear. So it does kinda set trends. Would you say you only associate yourself with electronic music when you’re attending events? Or is this something that you can associate yourself with in what you wear everyday? No, like I think I’m not your stereotypical person who goes to these things. I like the music and I definitely do dress different when I go to those sorts of things. But I don’t think that it’s like me, completely. Would you say that it’s easy for someone who’s never gone into one of these clubs, to set an expectation of how they dress and be able to merge themselves in quite easily through the clothes that they wear? Or do you think it’s difficult? I think probably it is. I think the more you go to things, then the more you notice what people are wearing and the brands they’re wearing, and you start to adapt from there to fit in. So if you’re going for the first time, you would feel sort of like an outsider? But it’s the type of place where you can go, and you’ll always enjoy yourself and they’re not so judgy as such, but there is definitely a pressure I think. Do you think that’s like a self-pressure? I would say that it’s a social pressure. Well a self-pressure because of your social group, but there’s definitely a social pressure and it’s the group that makes the pressure because, well I think when I go out with Katie and all that, we all ask what we’re wearing and whatnot. I think there is a pressure from social groups. Would you say that you dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or because it resonates with the clothes that people wear in the subculture? I think it is still my own style, like I’d never wear something I didn’t like anyways. But for example I wear my leather trousers everyday, but I would still wear them but styled differently with different shoes or a cooler top, but it’s still my own style. If your friends were investing in a particular brand which was quite expensive to invest into, would you feel a pressure to save up to buy this brand, or find a cheaper alternative to fit in? For me, it depends, if it’s a brand that I would like to have and my friends started to invest into it then I would start thinking “oh I want that too”, it depends whether I like it. I wouldn’t care if my friends were buying it, I would have to like it myself. Do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? I think it’s, there is a style but it’s easy to interpret. Do you feel like people are free to interpret it in their own ways? Yeah, like you can take it and do what you want with it, but still fit in. That’s what everyone wants when you go to places like that, like you want to stand out and look cool, but then you also don’t want to stand out and feel out of place for the wrong reasons.

118

Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture stands out amongst other cities that you have been to in the way that they dress? Well, they definitely wear a lot less clothes there. Madrid, Amsterdam, places like that it’s a lot more casual. It’s more dressed up, with a lot less clothes. Like the younger girls who wear all these chains and bright neon colours. I don’t see that when I go to other cities, but I feel like that style is starting to define the subculture here. It’s like what you see when you go to Ibiza. Is there any key differences in the brands that people wear? Not that I would remember, but I would say there probably is. Like whatever is the trend in their subculture and what’s popular. Like with the bondage style, there’s lots of brands that do that now and it starts to spread amongst that group. But I think with that group, like that style has only emerged in the music scene within the past year? And before that, it was never a thing. And I think it’s because this music has become more mainstream? So I would say that there’s like two groups. There’s the people who are there for the music, and who have been there from the start. And there’s now these people who are there because it’s popular, who listen to the likes of Patrick Topping. If you were going out for the first time in Madrid, would you be concerned about standing out because you weren’t sure what people would be wearing in the club, and not being able to fit in? Yeah definitely. I remember the first night we went out, we weren’t really dressed up but we were quite dressed up, and everyone that was there looked like they were just going to school. Like they were just wearing jeans, a t shirt and trainers. So we were like “ok” and from then we dressed totally casual. You do worry about what others are wearing, well I do. Being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express your style? Or would you say that there’s still trends that the subculture tend to follow? There’s trends, but I feel like they’re not strict trends, and if you don’t follow them I don’t think anyone is going to think badly of you. It’s just whether you like them, and how you can incorporate them in your style. But there is definitely freedom to do what you want with your style, but there’s similarities across everyone. Do you feel a strong association between electronic music and fashion? I would say the two are definitely linked, but there’s that thing in my everyday life, and I listen to it everyday, I don’t dress the way I would if I was going to one of those nights out. But when you’re going to something like that, then definitely. If you were walking down Buchanan Street, do you think you would be able to point out people who do go to these sorts of clubs? Yeah. You can spot people who are into it. For the people who want to be visibly part of it, it is a way of expressing yourself and a way of creating influence within the subculture. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? See I don’t know whether I’m part of the culture because I think when people look at me that they wouldn’t think that I like the music. But, I guess I am part of the culture. I see people and I know that’s what they like, but I don’t think anyone would look at me and think that. But then you are part of the culture, because you talk about it with all your friends and there’s always a buzz when there’s a new event, but I don’t think I’m visibly part of it.

119

Is there any specific shops you purchase from? I’m quite flexible, there’s not really like a “go-to” for me. Like when I like something I’ll buy it, but for me it tends to be quite plain. But if I’m going to somewhere like Subbie, like my leather trousers, or skirt with boots or chunky trainers. And then usually something like a nice bag or top that’s quite out there that I wouldn’t usually wear. Are there any brands that you associate with? I have a lot of adidas stuff that I wear when I’m going out, but they’re not a brand that I’m like “yes I love that” and I’m like associated with it in that sense. But I like them. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for others? I think that everyone would say that they like to dress for themselves, but I think that you are influenced by others. I think I’ve got my own style, and I would say that I do, but I do worry and care about what people think, especially on nights out. Day-to-day there’s less pressure, but especially on nights out, the social pressures do exist.

L.S. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT 120

How would you define electronic music in your own words? Um…I don’t know. If it’s just like the dance stuff, then it’s kinda like a cool community of very likeminded people who like the sorta bangers What genre of electronic music would you say you’re most associated with? Is it like when I go clubbing? Both…it’s like what sort of music do you listen to and attend, but more in this situation, what genres do you find yourself immersed in when clubbing? It would probably be whatever I’m in the mood for but like usually more varied sets, where there’s like melodic stuff going on rather than constant mental drops and techno And I love hearing stuff that I’ve never heard before Would you be able to narrow that down to a genre? Like…techno, melodic techno, progressive techno? Would you perceive yourself to be different when you go out clubbing when compared to what you wear in everyday life? Wear like clothes wise? Em…no. I think what I wear and the fashion that I’m into is heavily based, so is probably the same. What brands do you associate with the subculture? All the biggies like Adidas, Nike, Reebok etc…and then lots of the more dance music based ones, like Phantasy which is a record label but see a f**k load of their tees about. Also any product that’s aimed specifically at like techno or rave culture tends to totally bomb cause people think it’s cringe as f**k like the new Nike Berlin techno sneakers and stuff Do you feel like there’s always a pressure to present yourself a certain way when you attend electronic music events? So this can be through the brands you wear or the style of clothes that you wear? There’s not quite a pressure but there’s definitely a look that people go for. If you’re immersed in the scene when you will know what’s normal to wear? But I don’t think its pressure, I think it’s like wanting to fit in? So if you were to compare someone who went clubbing in the likes of Sub Club, would they dress differently compared to those who attend mainstream clubs? Definitely. I think there’s an element of being dressed for a long night or like comfort (in electronic music clubs) rather than dressing for other people. Would you say that you are friends with a lot of people who are interested in the electronic subculture and that has led you to be as immersed in it as you are? No I think it’s almost been the other way around. I liked the music before I came to uni and then when I came here, and that’s probably what helped me find people to be friends with through parties, afters, meeting people and likeminded people and stuff like that. Do you feel a need to dress a particular way in order to fit in with your friends? Yeah? But I think it’s more varied, I think there’s more room for being yourself than like you say in other clubs, where you’re just trying to look decent. But I think there is definitely a pressure to look good, or I feel like there is, and I think a lot of people do. Quite a lot of people I know spend a lot of money on clothes that are sorta street fashion. 121

Do you say that you would only associate with the electronic subculture when you’re attending the events or would say that there is a constant association in your everyday life? Yeah it’s like a lifestyle cause I think my interest in music and the culture definitely was before uni like years ago, so it influenced how I grew up. Because I write for lessthan3 and I was heavily into it and reading into it multiple times a week. Would you say that there is a constant association with the electronic subculture in everyday life? Yeah probably I think a lot of things, I wear band T-shirts or record label hats, I like letting people know that I’m into that sort of stuff on the off chance that I might bump into someone and they’ll be like “shit, you know them” that sorta thing. Or even at events where you can spark up a conversation probably in day to day life as well. That’s kinda why you buy those kinds of things too isn’t it? Show resonance and represent. Would you say that is easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture or whether the subculture is easy to merge into? There I think the big problem people have with merging into the electronic music scene is just not knowing the etiquette – without sounding wanky – but hundreds of people turn up to Subbie and they’re just filming and being fanny’s and they just don’t respect the people who are there and have been going all the time and I think those people have a lot of trouble when they’re merging in cause they don’t care about not the rules, but the etiquette. So like 10 people standing at the front and filming the DJ and stopping a lot of other people having a good time. And even people filming the crowd, it puts a lot of people off when you’re on a bad one. You hear a lot of people like, well I don’t know about you, but I wouldn’t like to be fucked and being filmed. It’s not a good vibe. Would you say that the clothes that a lot of the people in the electronic subculture wear are difficult to invest into because they do tend to be more branded goods? Or would you say it’s quite easy to invest yourself into? Yeah I think that’s exactly what it is. People buy into the idea that it’s like expensive to be into like streetwear and it always goes up. Like if someone wears Off-White then someone wearing Gucci is going to look down on them, and then someone above that. But you can definitely fit in and just ignore all the brand names so I think you can easily buy and fit into the scene if you’re clever and don’t become obsessed with the branding. Would you describe it as being quite a creative way of expressing yourself? Or would you say that people invest into the brands because it serves a sense of ego? I don’t like that about it. And I don’t like people who are clearly who are just in it to buy really expensive clothes just for the sake of wearing them. But I do think it’s creative, and people can be creative by picking stuff up at charity shops, yano, finding an old something which was their grandparents that is really cool and out there and combining it with whatever – like that’s when it’s the coolest. Rather than spending a grand on some trendy thing and people will think it’s cool but nah. Would you say that you follow the likes of Peggy Gou, Jackmaster, but like for example, they stick in mind for me about how they express themselves on Instagram and their clothing

122

Peggy Gou to me is a huge fake. Like she is just in it to be the cool looking girl. Like she doesn’t make any of her music, like, she is far too much on the showy off-y Instagram side like she’s making/has a fuck tonne of money but presumably using other people to make her songs. She’s turning up to play these gigs, like what’s the point? Would you say that a lot of the people who would invest into these bigger brands are influenced by these DJ’s who show off on Instagram? 100%. Every time she posts something on Instagram she either tags the company, or there’s 100 people in the comments saying “oh my god I love your shoes where did you get them?”. She is one of the people, but she’s also a bad representation of the scene, because she’s too easily influenced by money and is just in it for the fame. Who would you say are good influences, in your perspective? Fashion wise? Yeah I mean anyone that has that nice parallel with music and fashion. I’m unsure whether that comes from my respect for them or what…there definitely is people out there, I kinda like people who don’t try too hard, down the middle sorta thing. Like Skream, a pair of shoes he had on, I went and looked up after seeing him wearing them. Maybe Porter Robinson? I don’t know. If your friends were investing in a particular brand of clothing that you couldn’t afford, would you feel a pressure or desire to purchase that clothing, or try and find a cheaper alternative, in order to fit in? No, because I would never see someone wearing something and think “oh I need that” because id rather find something cool myself, rather than stealing someone else’s cool brand that they’ve gotten into. Especially if its expensive, I wouldn’t buy something that someone else has. Definitely not Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture in particular can differentiate themselves in terms of the way they dress when compared against other cities? Definitely yeah. I think Berlin people, they have a more clean look, whereas more charity shop things aren’t worn so much in Berlin. It’s more about the colour and the form of the fashion rather than finding a cool old branded thing. That’s from my experience anyways – especially like Berghain is just full of people wearing cool articles of clothing. It’s more about the architecture of the clothing rather than the brand? Yeah definitely. The colour and the shape. If you went to an electronic music event in another country, would you be concerned about standing out from the crowd? A festival? No, because festivals are so full of everything. Clubs? Yeah, me Angus and Jess literally planned our outfits for Berghain like a month before we went, but that’s just to get in so I’m not sure if that counts. But all the times I’ve been to Berghain I’ve really thought about outfits well in advance, but maybe that’s more because it’s a holiday? But no, you really have to plan for that because if you don’t wear the right thing then you’re not going to get in. There’s a definitely a lot of thought in Berlin. But if I was going down to England? Nah, I would just wear what I would wear here. So would you say that the whole electronic scene in the UK is similar in the terms they dress?

123

Down south there’s a lot more technical bum bags and front packs and bucket hats that there is here. I’m not sure what the difference is though. I just want to say they’re more roadman? There’s definitely more of a Grime influence down south though.

Being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express your style? Or would you say there are trends that the electronic subculture follow? There’s more of like a “fit in” look for like DJs and stuff? Like people who are in the music industry rather than people who are just going along to the events. Like looking on Soundcloud, every artist’s profile picture is just a big white t-shirt and a black hat. There is definitely room to be creative, especially if you’re just going along to a gig. How does being a part of the electronic subculture make you feel? Like a part of a community. Like when you’re at the right event, it feels class. The atmosphere is usually unparalleled, like being in a room, and the DJ is in a room for hours and hours and it finally reaches a point where it’s like “oh my god, this is euphoric, and I’m not even on drugs” like there’s this sort of thing and atmosphere, place and time, I don’t know. Is there any certain stores that you tend to purchase from regularly? No, nah. Would you feel a strong association with any brand you like to purchase from? Erm…I don’t know, there’s ones that I trust I suppose? Levi’s, I have 4 Levi’s things sitting up there, usually because they’re good quality. There’s ones that I used to, like Adidas stuff, for no reason but I thought it was cool. But I don’t think there’s like one or a couple, but I have a few favourite jumpers that I feel like I’ve never seen before, and I associate myself with them quite well. But not because I buy it all the time, but just because I have this one unique jumper. Would you see the importance of how you look and the way you present yourself as being a strong factor in expressing the electronic subculture? To people who are not in it. Like would you be able to walk down the street and see people who are in the electronic subculture? Definitely, I think so. You definitely see people that you know go to Subbie all the time. Especially if you’re at a party where you’re able to speak to people without it being weird. Like last night I went to my friends’ house and he had people from France over, and I knew that they were definitely into the subculture. Would you say that you would be able to recognise anyone from any country then? If you can say that you knew that the French boys were into it? Erm…any country is probably a push, but the countries I’ve been to, yeah probably. I think there’s definitely obvious giveaways but maybe there’s a lot of people in Glasgow who you wouldn’t know go to Subbie all the time? I don’t know it’s a tough one. But there’s definitely characteristics that give away that you’re in that scene. Would you say they’re personal characteristics? Or external characteristics?

124

No it’s definitely the look and dress and how they cut their hair or do their makeup – it’s definitely more avant-garde and you know, sort of playing on what is normal and getting the shaved bits on your head or crazy eyeliner. There’s definitely trying to express that look. Would you say that these people would care about what’s trendy on the high street? I think there’s definitely a trend in liking the electronic subculture from people who were loving the sort of EDM, and they’re going like “oh that’s a bit shit and cheesy” and they’ve shifted onto techno/tech house/Peggy Gou, it’s gone commercial. And in that sense, it’s definitely gone mainstream and there’s brands who were never involved in the culture who are now being like “oh shit, we better jump on that because it’s the cool thing” and it’ll come and it’ll pass the same as it did with EDM. It’s 100% becoming a trend. And I think like, a big factor in that is like when a band tours, it’s a huge expense to lug their stuff around the world. But a DJ pops on a flight with hand luggage and can play 3 gigs in 24 hours. It’s crazy the tours that DJs do, and that’s how you see so many DJs on all these line ups. That’s why it’s probably so popular, because everyone can see everyone they’ve heard of. Would you say that you dress for yourself, or for other people? Eh…myself. But, I don’t know. Yeah, there’s definitely times where I’m like “oh I’m going out with these cool people”, but I’ve already got the clothes, it’s not like I’m going out to buy something to fit in with someone.

125

M.S. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT I’m going to start off broad and ask how would you define electronic music? Any words….umm…dancey….happy…..like digital…yeah, a bit good? What genre would you say that you identify yourself with most? Techno, trance maybe? Jon Hopkins genre – that. Would you perceive your style to be different when you’re attending electronic music events against what you would wear in everyday life? Yes. I feel like I dress a bit more…like…out there? A little more different, more colourful, a bit weirder. Would you say it relates more to your personal style than what your everyday style is? Yeah maybe. Just like, I wear quite boring clothes normally. I feel like, it’s not like you’re not allowed to wear it normally, but I feel more comfortable wearing it to something like that? Do you feel like there’s a pressure to be presenting yourself a certain way when you’re attending electronic music events, through clothing? I wouldn’t say pressure, no. I mean, I might feel a bit dumb if I turned up in jeans and a vest or something, I don’t know. Or, like, a ballgown. Like maybe not. But I don’t think like “oh nobody’s going to like me” because of what I’m wearing. What brands do you associate with the electronic subculture? I don’t know…maybe like sporty ones? Like Cahartt and Adidas, Nike etc. But I think that might be because that’s just what people wear when they’re going out maybe? If you were attending like a mainstream club, would you feel like there’s the same pressure or would you dress differently going to that than what you would going to an electronic music event? Yeah I would dress more casual. Or not care as much, or think about it as much. Do you feel a need to dress a particular way in order to fit in with your friends who are also associated with the electronic subculture? Hmm…no? Not really, maybe a little, maybe I feel like I need to try harder, like if I’m coming out to Glasgow, but think about like what I’m going to wear, if I’m just going out to the union or something I’ll just be like “oh well, I’ll just wear the first thing I can find”.

126

Do you follow Peggy Gou on Instagram? I don’t actually, no… She’s quite like, flashy in the way that she tags all the brands that she’s wearing, she’s a very like fashion focused DJ. Basically the question leads onto whether you think that influences the subculture and the clothes that they buy? Hmm…maybe? Meaning that, cause she’s posting these things? Wait can I look at her page? … Ahh yeah probably, cause you would probably look at it, and think “she’s a cool DJ and I want to look like her”? You know? And her clothes are nice so, and this is basically what you wore last night to Subbie! Maybe subliminally…You’ve been Peggy Gou-d! Do you only associate yourself with the electronic subculture when you’re attending events? Or would you say that you have a constant need to show association with it in everyday life? Not really, I don’t really think about the clothes that I wear showing that I like that kind of music? I listen to it and stuff, but I don’t feel a need to promote that? Like “hey everybody, I like techno”. Like sometimes I’ll maybe say I’m interested in an event on Facebook or something, just to see. But that’s only so I remember the event. Would you say that it’s easy to feel like a member of the electronic subculture or whether it’s quite difficult to merge into in terms of the way that you dress? I feel like…umm…maybe more importantly, for fitting in, is talking about the music more? Like knowing not as well-known artists and being able to talk about it, and then being able to fit in because yous have the same interests? Rather than wearing the same clothes. Would you say that you dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your personal style? Or resonates with the electronic subculture? Hmm..I don’t know actually, I don’t know if I have a personal style? I just wear things that I like. Sometimes I would wear…like I don’t look up “electronic music clothes” like, and see what people are wearing. But maybe if I’m at a gig, and see what people are wearing that I liked, then maybe I would get inspired from that. If your friends are investing in a particular brand of clothing, which you technically couldn’t afford, would you feel a pressure or desire to purchase the clothing or a cheaper alternative in order to fit in? Maybe when I was like 15 yeah. But now, half my wardrobe is charity shops. I really don’t care, I just like the look of something and maybe I’ll try it if I see someone else wearing it. But, nah. Do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Oh like, by what they wear? Um…I don’t know, I don’t think so because I feel like everyone has different styles? So, I don’t know. And there’s so many different styles, so it’s hard to define one. Do you feel like the Glaswegian electronic subculture can differentiate themselves in terms of the clothes they wear, when compared against the likes of Manchester or Dundee? I feel like with Dundee, no, like last night [when we went to Subbie I didn’t see too many people wearing different sorts of stuff. But I feel like when I do go to Reading Rooms and stuff that people, do dress a little more out there, louder. 127

Is that more out there in terms of like heavy logos? It’s more like in terms of colour, weird stuff… If you went to an electronic music event in another country, would you feel concerned about not fitting in or standing out amongst a foreign electronic music subculture? No…I think it would just stick to the norm? Because that’s what you know, and then maybe if I was there for a long time, but if I was just there for a day, I would just wear my clothes because I can’t change my style in a night. Do you feel like there is a freedom to express your own style or would you say that there are still trends that members of the electronic subculture still follow? Eh…yeah probably trends I’d say. Yeah, like trying to be a little more different than what everyone else tries to look like, a little more weirder, which is technically a trend I suppose. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Yeah I’d say so. I mean with like rave culture in the 90s is like, I don’t know, neon lace and stuff like that. So you almost associate a music time with it. So it’s like with 80s, there’s a certain style with that too. So do you think as music has become more modern and progressed to become more popular, the fashion almost has as well? Yeah they’re kinda going together, and they’re like following each other in sync. Is there any other aspects from going out in Glasgow which differentiate it from Dundee? In terms of the people? If I went to Reading Rooms, probably not it’s pretty much the same. But compared to the Union, people there are a lot younger and are like freshers, almost like a little more immature. Would you be able to compare it against Inverness? Like when you went to Outdores? I don’t know…I feel like people might be more chill in Glasgow? In comparison to Inverness, and it’s also a lot busier in Glasgow too. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? Because I like the music – I think that’s the only reason really. I mean, friends that go as well usually. I don’t know, I just really enjoy dancing to good tunes. Is there are specific stores that you purchase from? It’s mainly charity shops, Primark because it’s cheap, I like Topshop a lot – I like their clothes and they’re good for basics and stuff. I honestly don’t really do brands really…Converse? I like my converse. That’s about it. If you were walking down Buchanan Street, do you think you would be able to point those who go to like Subbie and Flat 0/1? Probably yeah. I feel like they tend to be a lot artsier? I mean I go to art school so I can tell them off from a mile. I just feel like people dress slightly different? A bit more…edgier? Like less normal…but I don’t know. But there’s also so many people who are just edgy that it’s becoming the normal.

128

Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? Myself…? It’s such a hard question. It would depend if I was going to [Reading] Rooms, I would try and dress differently, a little more…edgier, I don’t know why I just do. Or if I’m going to a party or something, I’ll maybe think about who’s going and then be like “oh what are you wearing”, because I always ask my flatmates before we go out what we’re planning to wear. Just so you can kinda get a... initial vibe – like whether it’s really casual, sorta medium or fancy – that sort of thing….

P.G. DISSERTATION INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT How would you define electronic music? Um…in like a cultural sense…it’s kinda edgier, not as many people like it? But definitely there is a certain type of person that likes it, just the way, like how they sesh in a way compared to how you would sesh if you went to a cheesy event. And then also, like, how you dress for sure. Also like areas. So I would say that Glasgow is an incredibly more electronic-y techno vibes than Edinburgh from personal experience. What genres of electronic music do you listen to the most? Probably like, techno, or disco, or a disco-tech combo in there. Would you perceive your style to be different when you go out to a techno gig, when compared against what you would wear in everyday life? Um..yeah, well, actually, yeah for sure because…I could probably spend my life in running leggings. But yeah, kinda more, out there clothes? Than a sort of, standard night? If you were going to a standard event, you would dress very white girl. How would you define “white girl”? Trend focused, fast fashion. Like I’d say Topshop mainstream…whereas edgier events would be more Urban Outfitters. Are there any brands that you think of when you’re at an electronic music event? A lot of sports labels will stand out, like Adidas or Umbro, stuff like that. A lot of regular clothes, or shop brands like Urban Outfitters kinda thing. But also a lot of vintage clothing, you’d never really see two people wearing the same thing. Like definitely all the same style, but people seem to me more into getting stuff off Depop or that sort of retro vibes. Do you think there’s any pressure to present yourself any sort of way when attending electronic music events? I wouldn’t say there’s pressure, but I still probably subconsciously do it, because…I dunno…because it’s a techno event.

129

Do you feel like it’s a place of expression rather than a bog standard club? I would say there’s way more pressure going to a bog-standard club night compared to a techno, electronic music event. It’s definitely more about expressing yourself for sure. Do you feel like you need to dress differently when going to a mainstream club, rather than a techno club then? Yeah for sure. I would feel more pressured to wear makeup and heels and a dress. I feel like I can be a lot more casual at like…techno events. Do you feel like there is a need to dress in a particular way to fit in with your friend group who are also a part of the electronic subculture? No, I would say everyone has their own sort of style…you can tell that everyone’s wearing edgier clothes, but they’re not all the same style or they all have their own sort of take to it? Nobody rocks up wearing the same thing, so I think it’s more…yeah, definitely more about doing your own style. Do you follow like, Peggy Gou on Instagram? I have just started following her Do you think her posting the clothes that shes wearing would have an influence on the people that listen to her music, and would influence them to dress in the same sort of way? Em…yeah I mean, again it’s incredibly expressive out there clothing. I feel like a few people would follow the exact same style, but then other people would see it as like, “shit she’s wearing wacky, out there clothes so I’m going to do the same, but with ones that I like and not necessarily like, the same. It would probably give people the confidence to dress more “themselves”. Would you say that you only associate yourself with electronic music, through the way that you dress, only when you’re attending the events? Or would you say that you almost dress in that sort of style everyday? Um…I’d say, I have started to dress more in that way? Just because, I feel like I look good in that clothing, but I don’t feel as conscious in it as I would if I was in a skin-tight jeans with a tiny skimpy crop top. I feel like it’s more comfy clothing anyway, and you just kinda feel, because you’re expressing yourself through your clothes, you feel happier in the clothes you’re wearing so it’s nicer to wear it anyway. Would you say that it’s quite easy to merge into the subculture through the way that you dress, or whether the clothes are quite difficult to invest into and therefore feel like you’re a part of it? I feel if you went for, the ones with big names on them and big brands, you’d probably end up spending quite a bit of money. But then, you can totally do it through like, Depop and secondhand shops and you don’t have to spend so much money – it’s probably more time consuming, but it’s possible. Would you say that you dress in the clothes that you do because it resonates with your own personal style? Or because it resonates more with the electronic subculture? I’d say my personal style, but I’d say, the electronic subculture probably helped me find that, if that makes sense 130

If your friends were investing in a particular brand of clothing, and was quite a big spend and difficult to invest into, would you feel a pressure or desire to invest into a high street, cheaper alternative in order to fit in? Em…nah, not really. Well, nah I don’t think so. Do you feel like it’s easy to merge into the electronic subculture in terms of style? Yeah for sure. Because it’s not like a set style, like you can’t, like so many people have their own take on it. So it’s very much quite easy to do it your own way I suppose. When you come on a night out to Glasgow, is there anything that you think stands out when you compare a night out in Glasgow against a night out in Edinburgh? Em…I definitely could say…if you were to go to a club in George street in Edinburgh, you’d probably see people in like heels, stilettos, and like skimpy short dresses and sorta like, spice boys in really skinny jeans you know what I mean? Like the classic look. But then in Glasgow, especially in Sub Club or whatever, nobody would be wearing heels but if they are, they’ll be like chunky like small ones, nobody would be in stilettos. It’s more like Nike Air Force Ones and stuff like that. And you probably wouldn’t see anyone in a teeny tiny dress. It’s more baggier clothes, that’s probably one of the main things. Instead of skinny jeans, it’s like straight cut jeans and like stuff like that. If you were to go to a techno event in another country, would you be concerned about not fitting in if you wore the clothes you would wear out here, or would you try and restyle an outfit to how you would think the subculture in another country would dress like? Yeah, I think I’d probably stick with the same. Like it’s not a very judgemental environment, at all. Yeah I wouldn’t change. Being a member of the electronic subculture, do you feel a freedom to express your style or do you still think that there’s some trends that people tend to follow within it? I think there probably are trends, definitely. But you don’t feel pressured to follow them at all, and, even with those trends, you can kinda have your own take on it and sorta, jazz up the bog standard average outfit with something that expresses you. Do you feel like there’s a strong association between electronic music events and fashion? Yeah I think there is, but like…what am I trying to say, like obviously like yeah there is with everything. But there’s not a set way to dress, it’s very much how you want to do it. Why are you a part of the subculture and how does it make you feel? I’m a part of it because I like the music, and I have a lot on friends in it. And I like the environment, rather than…you get in other types of places. And, yeah it’s just a good time and it makes me feel happy. Is there any specific stores that you purchase from? Yeah well if I’m going to treat myself, I’d probably go to urban outfitters. You can find a few funky things on like Motel Rocks and stuff. Where else…it’s kinda random, I wouldn’t say I have a set shop, I just browse and browse until I find the right thing I want. I love like, second hand things as well like, big time. Is there any particular brands that you go to, time and time again?

131

My shoes I wear all day everyday are the Nike Air Force 1’s. Em…probably like, Adidas. I have so much Adidas. If you were walking down the street, do you think you’d be able to point out people who listen to techno? Erm…yeah probably. I feel like you can do that with most types of music though. Is there any distinct factors which differentiate people who listen to that sort of music when compared against others? By the way that they look? The clothes are just way edgier. Not like, classic high street fashion. Would you say that you dress for yourself or for other people? For myself, for sure.

132

Appendix 6: Similarity report

133

134

135

136

137

138