DE0929 Project Research by Emma Smallwood

Luxury Sustainability: Oxymoron or Possibility? How Luxury Fashion Brands Can Build a Respectable Reputation

Emma Smallwood W15027049 Project Research DE0929 BA (Hons) Fashion Communication Northumbria University

CONTENTS

04 I N T R O D U C T I O N 06 M E T H O D O L O G Y 08 C H A P T E R O N E THE INDUSTRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;S CURRENT

REPUTATION

10 1:1

UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER

12 1:2

T H E S H I F T F R O M C O N S P I C UO U S C O N S U M P T I O N T O CONSCIENTOUS CONSUMPTION

14 1:3

THE LUXURY SUSTAINABILITY PARADOX

18 C H A P T E R T W O

WHY SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY MATTERS

20 2:1

CHOOSING APPROPRIATE CHANNELS

22 C H A P T E R T H R E E

C A S E S T U D Y: T H E K E R I N G G R O U P

24 3:1

T H E EN V I R O N M E N T A L P R O F I T & L O S S R E P O R T

26 3:2

THE BENEFITS OF THE EP&L

28 C O N C L U S I O N 30 R E F E R E N C E L I S T 32 I M A G E R E F E R E N C E L I S T 33 B I B L I O G R A P H Y

INTRODUCTION

The fashion industry. A multi-trillion-dollar industry which drives a consequential part of the global economy and creates millions of job opportunities worldwide. An industry responsible for optimising supply chain operation to manufacture fast fashion designs for millions of consumers. Yet it is an industry which is scrutinised time and time again for its frivolous and superficial reputation. Frivolity is defined by something lacking in any serious purpose or value, it is often associated with the fashion industry in the media. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The most outspoken detractors are quick to point out the tendency of fashion to focus on frivolity in the face of much bigger social and political issues.â&#x20AC;? (Sachikonye, 2011) This image of fantasy which the industry has contrived and sells to the world through fantastical runway shows and elaborate garments, has limited critics to think of fashion at surface-level. Although many luxury brands have begun to adopt sustainable strategies within their brand values, very little is known about their sustainability efforts, thus creating a research gap. This report aims to provide the information to fill this gap, whilst exploring how the luxury industry can use its power and influence to encourage the fashion industry as a whole to take sustainability seriously by developing positive changes. Thus, constructing a respected reputation in order to be taken more seriously by shareholders and consumers. This report will create an understanding of how fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relationship with fantasy is distracting attention away from serious topics surrounding the industry including; sustainability, supply chain transparency and worker rights.

METHODOLOGY

As part of this research project both primary and secondary research has been conducted in order to produce a creditable and detailed understanding and analysis of the reputation of the fashion industry. Prior to conducting primary research an ethical approval form was signed (see appendix A). A survey of 64 people, entitled Perceptions on the Reputation of the Fashion Industry, was created to achieve a clearer insight into the opinions and perceptions of consumers through quantitative research. For the purpose of this study this survey will be referred to as ‘a new survey’ throughout the study (see appendix C). A focus group entitled ‘Luxury Sustainability Focus Group’ of 3 participants was conducted in order to gain more qualitative research. All participants were briefed before signing informed consent forms (see appendix B) and later debriefed. For the purpose of this study this focus group will be referred to as ‘a new focus group’ throughout the study (see appendix F). Secondary research was conducted through the examination of journals and academic books which cover the topics of luxury sustainability and the reputation of the fashion industry. Mintel was used to analyse reports to gain insights from creditable news sources. This report has been carried out ethically and no participants were exposed to harm. All data collected has been treated with respect.

CHAPTER ONE THE INDUSTRY‘S CURRENT REPUTATION

Luxury and sustainability are currently perceived as two juxtaposing concepts. The definition of luxury relates to indulgence, extravagance and wealth as well as waste and excess. Antithetically contrasted with the definition of sustainability as “maintaining a diverse bio-system while eliminating waste and pollution and decreasing energy consumption.” (Givhan, 2015). If brands can find techniques which encourage these two concepts to work in unison, a growth in consumer loyalty and a respectable reputation amongst shareholders may be the result. However, before brands can act upon this, they must first tackle the current reputation the fashion industry obtains. According to a new survey, 29% of participants believed the fashion industry was superficial or admitted to not taking the industry seriously. 24% of participants thought there are more important industries to be a part of (see appendix C). These statistics illustrate negative reputations surrounding the fashion industry, a result of numerous possible factors. The fashion industry’s tendency to focus on the external as opposed to the internal has gained the industry a superficial reputation. A perception of frivolity has stemmed from a focus on excessive fashion shows or elaborate trends, such as the ‘half on half off’ trend (see figure 1) and a less public focus on important social and environmental issues. Social disasters such as the collapse of Rana Plaza in 2013 which killed over 1,000 garment-factory workers, saw the fashion industry to blame for poor employee conditions in emerging countries and a lack of accountability (Westerman 2017). The fast fashion industry is partially to blame for mass production of polyester which “emits three times more carbon dioxide in its lifecycle than cotton,” (Cheeseman, 2016). The fast fashion industry also contributes to throwaway fashion as the lifecycles of clothes are shortening annually.

Figure 1: Half On Half Off Trend, Source: Chrediv, High Snobiety, 2017

These differing perceptions on the industry contribute to a negative reputation. While there are positive perceptions on the industry, as 60% of participants in a new survey believed the industry creates thousands of job opportunities and 60% thought the industry significantly contributes to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy (see appendix C), it is usually the negative opinions which are the most memorable and contribute to a frivolous and superficial reputation. It is these negative opinions brands must work on and resolve in order to build a respectable reputation.

1:1 UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER

Traditionally, consumers would buy luxury items for a “buying to impress others” type of gratification (Wiedmann et al, 2007). Luxury was and still is affiliated with indulgence and excessiveness - “the antithesis of responsibility” (Hennigs et al, 2012). This sense of personal image is still present when consumers purchase luxury items today. As 23.44% of the participants of a new survey admitted to purchasing a luxury item for the social status it brings (see appendix C). However, recently consumers are becoming increasingly interested in the sustainable manufacture of their luxury products and the brands behind them. This growing interest stems from better education in topics of sustainability and increased media coverage on disasters such as garment-factory accidents. “The luxury industry is extremely sensitive to reputational damage and consumers in all social classes are increasingly concerned about social and environmental issues (Hennigs et al, 2013; Bendell and Kleanthough 2007). Therefore, luxury brands must adopt sustainability as part of the luxury experience into their strategies in order to save their reputation and maintain their clientele.

Consumers are now expecting to be provided with information on the social and environmental efforts of the luxury brands they purchase from, if they are to project a certain image of themselves. The tradition of luxury projecting an image of a consumer with reference to their particular social groups is still apparent today, however now with consideration to the sustainability efforts of a brand. For example, if a woman is wearing a piece of luxury clothing designed by a brand which is sustainably-driven, such as Stella McCartney, she is reflecting an image of herself as someone with interests in social and environmental development. In contrast, if a woman wears a piece of clothing designed by a brand known publicly for a lack of environmental brand values for example, Fendi, she may reflect values within herself as someone uninterested in the future of sustainability. Understandably, this is a theory which may only be relevant to the trained eye in luxury fashion. However, the purpose behind this concept still remains, the idea of what is luxurious is changing. A higher quality in all aspects of a garments manufacture is now desired, rather than just rich materials and a heavy price tag. A luxury product must now benefit everyone involved in the supply chain, in order to satisfy consumers.

1:2 THE SHIFT FROM C O N S P I C UO U S C O N S U M P T I O N TO CONSCIENTOUS CONSUMPTION

67%

23%

...of participants in a new survey stated they are more likely to shop at a brand which they know is sustainable.

...of participants in a new survey stated they now look at luxury brands to be sustainable not just for quality and status.

Conspicuous consumption relates to the idea of spending excessively or purchasing expensive products to “inflate one’s ego or to ostentatiously display one’s wealth.” (Ki et al, 2017). The term, coined by Veblen (1899) has been used by researchers to analyse the psychology behind how luxury consumers shop. However, as previously stated, there is a shift evolving in the way luxury consumers are wanting to relate to brands. “The shift from conspicuous consumption to conscientious consumption leads to responsible consumers who are better informed about brands and products, including controversial issues.” (Hennigs et al, 2013; Cvijanovich 2011). In 2013, Robert Burke, a New York retail consultancy firm stated, “consumers look at luxury brands for exclusivity, quality and status. I’m not sure where sustainability fits in that pecking order.” (Givhan, 2015). However, 67% of participants of a new survey stated they are more likely to shop at a brand which they know is sustainable. 23% of these participants state they now look at luxury brands to be sustainable not just for quality and status (see appendix C). These statistics provide evidence of the shift from conspicuous consumption to conscientious consumption. Conscientious consumption relates to the social movement of purchasing products with an increased awareness of the impact these purchases have on the environment. There are numerous theories as to why this shift has taken place, from better education on topics including worker rights and sustainability, to increased media coverage on disasters in emerging countries caused by a small minority of the fashion industry. Consumers want change. They want to associate themselves with brands “to reveal their aspirations for a better world.” (Ki et al, 2017). Which is why brands must evolve their brand values to better the world around consumers. This shift in consumer behaviour supports the possibility of luxury fashion adopting sustainability within a brand’s values, strategies and product manufacture. Brands making proactive developments to better the world around their consumers and shareholders results in a respected reputation, thus building on the reputation of the luxury fashion industry as a whole.

1.3 THE LUXURY SUSTAINABILITY PARADOX

Gardetti et al (2017) explain the concept of the Luxury Sustainability Paradox as “intuitively, luxury brands should be more sustainable versus normal brands, since consumer’s willingness to pay is high which should allow for highest standards in quality, including sustainability. However, many of the most expensive luxury products appear to exhibit limited sustainability.” Therefore, the amount of disposable income consumers are willing to spend on a luxury item lies on the belief they are buying the most high quality item in terms of material and manufacture. Which is supported by the results of a new focus group as 100% of participants agreed with this statement. One participant stated they would feel anger towards a brand if they found out a luxury product they had purchased wasn’t produced with the highest form of manufacture and materials. Thus, negatively affecting the reputation of the brand (see appendix F). However, many luxury products are not manufactured sustainably. Gardetti et al use the example of the Hermés Birkin Bag, with prices ranging up to $80,000 and one of the most elite and sought-after fashion accessories in the world, one would assume the highest quality of manufacture and material has been used. However, in 2015 Jane Birkin requested to remove her name from the Hermés handbag after a video surfaced by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) displaying the level of animal, specifically crocodile, cruelty which went into the manufacture of the bag. (Chrisafis, 2015).

Figure 2: Céline Long Sleeve Mink Fur Coat Source: Céline, 2017

Figure 3: Fendi Fox Fur & Calf Skin Keychain Source: Fendi, 2017

The Luxury Sustainability Paradox can also be seen in Céline’s £20,100 Long Sleeve Mink Fur Coat (see figure 2) and Fendi’s key rings (see figure 3), which are a result of a mix of rabbit and fox fur, priced up to £1,170. “I think as long as there is a demand for certain products i.e. fur and leather, then luxury brands will continue to use them in their products.” Says Ellie Horridge, Brand Specialist for Céline in Selfridges Womenswear Designer Galleries. “I know Céline as a brand pride themselves on using only the best fabrics and materials and ultimately that will continue if consumers are still desiring this.” (See appendix D). This current consumer desire for real fur and leather may be predicted to decrease in the future as 92% of participants of a new survey stated they believe sustainably sourced materials and finding alternatives to environmentally damaging materials are the most important elements of sustainability a fashion brand can adhere to, in their opinion (see appendix C). Luxury fashion brand Gucci has also signed up to the Fur Free Alliance, “an organisation that promises to end exploitation and killing of animals for fur, as part of a wider sustainability plan.” As the brand has banned fur within its designs from spring/summer 2018 (Shannon, 2017). A concept which other brands may begin to adopt to reach higher levels of supply chain transparency.

Fendi, the Italian luxury fashion brand, is known for its fur and leather products and extravagant runway shows. The brand’s 90th anniversary show reflected the luxury concept of excessiveness, which is explained in the preceding paragraphs. Models were dressed in extravagant designs and appeared to walk on water over Rome’s Trevi Fountain (see figure 4). “Guests were chartered to the show via a private Fendi plane from Paris’s couture collections to Rome.” (Fisher, 2016). The luxury brand offered 2.6 million euros towards the fountain’s restoration project in order to host the show there (Harris, 2016). The fountain itself had to be drained in order to balance a plexiglass runway over the top of it. This is a key example of how a luxury brand has invested time and money into a fantastical runway show to debut unethically manufactured designs. This kind of marketing is what provides detractors with the evidence to consider the fashion industry as frivolous.

Figure 4: Fendi 90th Anniversary Show at the Trevi Fountain Source: Getty, 2016

Fendi and Céline, like other luxury brands, sells their products to consumers at an elevated price to what is available on the high street. “A luxury brand’s premium price strategy makes a certain product more desirable and leads additionally to high margins that may in turn be used to finance more environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing (Hennigs et al, 2013). However, in the case of Fendi, Céline and similar luxury products these high margins are not being used to finance environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing as fur and leather are still being used in the manufacture of their luxury products, thus supporting The Sustainability Paradox.

CHAPTER TWO WHY SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY MATTERS

The term supply chain transparency relates to the extent to which businesses make the information of each step of their supply chain, including sourcing, suppliers, employee welfare etc., readily available to consumers and shareholders. According to the BoFMcKinsey State of Fashion 2018 report, 42% out of 100 fashion brands disclosed their supplier information in 2017. The report states the credibility of sustainability is set to increase in 2018 as “more fashion brands will plan for recyclability from the fibre stage of the supply chain and many will harness sustainability through tech innovation in order to unlock efficiency and transparency.” Therefore, an ethically improved supply chain will lead to an increase in supply chain transparency amongst more brands, as they will be open to allowing the public to witness each sustainable and ethical step of their supply chain, rather than hiding unethical aspects. Fashion Revolution, an organisation which works towards systematic reform within the fashion industry, relates the importance of supply chain transparency to one simply question, “Who made my clothes?” (Fashion Revolution, 2017). The organisation believes consumers can urge businesses to answer this simple question to build a transparent industry. Transparency in supply chains does not singularly relate to environmental issues, but also social issues and a “lack of transparency can cost lives” (Ditty et al, 2017). The 2013 Savar building collapse killed over 1,000 workers, as stated in the preceding paragraphs. The Rana Plaza building included factories belonging to many well-known retailers including, Monsoon and Primark (HuffingtonPost, 2013). Few of these brands knew they even had connection to the factories and factory workers inside the building and it took weeks before this was determined. Had these brands known where their products were being produced and by whom, through supply chain transparency, accountability could have been held a lot sooner, if the accident had even happened at all. Although these brands are all examples of high street stores, a number of high street brands do adhere to elements of supply chain transparency. “Topshop are extremely strict on their ethical policies with factories across the globe.” Says a Buyer’s Admin Assistant for knitwear at UK. “Each factory must have a complete audit carried out on a regular basis and visits from the technical team are carried out frequently to ensure rules are being followed.” This is a key example of how brands can work towards supply chain transparency by being knowledgeable on where their products are being manufactured, by whom and under what conditions (see appendix G).

“

Transparency encourages scrutiny, vigilance and accountability. It’s like opening one’s front door and allowing others to look inside; not yet the full picture, but an important step towards openness and public disclosure. And of course, the more doors are open, the more the picture becomes clearer, the better we can understand and ameliorate supply chain workers’ lives and the environment.” Orsola De Castro Founder and Creative Director, Fashion Revolution, 2017

”

As stated in the 2017 Fashion Transparency Index, supply chains can be long and complex, there are many steps which contribute to the manufacture of a singular product. A garment can be passed through many different countries and hands before it can be bought from a store. Materials must initially be grown which can produce harmful toxins and chemicals affecting the environment. The item must be sewn or assembled, dyed, weaved and packaged etc. Each element of an items manufacture may be contracted to different suppliers in different countries. Retailers may therefore find it difficult to ensure sustainability in each step of their supply chain if they are unaware of where their employees are working and under what conditions. Transparent supply chains result in stronger, more trusting relationships with consumers. In a time where consumer loyalty is remarkably low and a switching economy – “the increasing number of consumers switching to different brands due to dissatisfaction of some sort.” (Halloran, 2015) - is increasing. Showing transparency within supply chains is a key technique to ensure consumer loyalty and trust within a brand.

2:1 CHOOSING APPROPRIATE CHANNELS

As discussed in the preceding paragraphs, “luxury brands have to redefine their business model in response to increasingly conscientious consumers” (Hennigs et al, 2013). One affective technique of doing this is developing a transparent supply chain. However, while adjusting and updating supply chain operations will considerably help the fashion industry to reduce climate change or at least the industry’s carbon footprint, it is not contributing to build a respectable reputation for brands if shareholders or consumers aren’t aware of these developments. In a new survey, 81% of participants agreed they would take the fashion industry more seriously if brands made their environmental efforts public (see appendix C). 88% of participants stated they believed social media campaigns was the best method to do so (see figure 5). According to the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2018 report, “customer attention is tuned to new communications channels. In the Philippines, Brazil and UAE, social media users report that they are now spending more than three hours per day on average on these platforms. This has a profound impact on fashion, as purchase decisions are influenced by social media, peer reviews and influencer marketing.” 100% of UK based participants in a new focus group admitted spending over 4 hours on social media a day, with many participants stating they had lost count of how long they spend on social media platforms. Upon viewing negative and positive reviews of products, 66.67% of participants agreed they would be influenced to make a purchase based on the positive review (see appendix F). Therefore, if purchase decisions are so influenced by reviews consumers read on social media, the impressions consumers have on a brand may also be significantly affected by what they view on these platforms.

Figure 5: Perceptions on the Reputation of the Fashion Industry Survey Results

Social media and sustainability can work together to help brands reach higher levels of transparency. “Brands are blowing a major opportunity to communicate their sustainability initiatives to millions of consumers with social media updates.” (Burrows, 2015). A 2015 study conducted by the Pew Research Centre found that 63% of Twitter and Facebook users admitted that each platform served as a significant news source. (Barthel et al, 2015). A participant in a new focus group stated, “social media spreads information so quickly, I hear about things that have happened around the world through social media before it is even on the news, so a negative comment of a brand can spread so quickly and stick in peoples’ minds.” Therefore, if brands are wanting to target their sustainability updates towards specific audiences, those messages should be communicated through social media platforms which are the preferred mode of communication for these audiences. The participants in the focus group, aged 18-30-years-old, admitted Instagram was their favourite social media platform and they believed it was the most effective form of communication to build relationships. “I think targeting us (consumers) through Instagram builds a better relationship as we are aware that the brand is choosing to appreciate our favourite mode of communication,” one participant stated. Therefore, this is a technique brands can use in order to raise awareness of their sustainability efforts and build loyal relationships with consumers (see appendix F). This importance of using social media channels to communicate the sustainability efforts of a brand is only set to increase according to the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2018 report. As it is predicted “consumers will increasingly look to online platforms as the first point of search, attracted by their convenience, relevance and breadth offering.” By using this technique brands can build a trusted rapport with consumers by targeting information about their sustainability efforts to consumers by their chosen form of communication.

CHAPTER THREE C A S E S T U D Y: THE KERING GROUP

The term ‘Sustainable Luxury’ is currently perceived as an oxymoron, something which Gardetti et al (2017) deemed “very challenging, if not impossible”. As previously stated, a large amount of luxury brands have begun to integrate sustainability into their brand values in order to meet the desires of their consumers. However, numerous luxury brands are still struggling to evolve and update their supply chain accordingly. VerdeNieto (2011) stated purchasing high quality products does not have to result in a compromise of ethics and it is key to remember that “luxury products and services encompassing environmental and social credentials do not have to be contradictory.” (Hennigs et al, 2013). However, there is a development happening within some luxury brands which is making sustainable luxury a possibility.

Figure 5: Stella McCartney Winter 2017 Campaign Source: Stella McCartney, Harley Weir, 2017

The Kering Group is one of the largest luxury conglomerates in the world - “and the luxury industry in general.” (Givhan, 2015). It is the parent company of successful sustainable luxury fashion brand Stella McCartney. The brand collaborated with artist Urs Fischer to produce the winter 2017 campaign which was set in a Scottish landfill (see figure 5). “The concept was an exploration of waste and consumption, two of McCartney’s key brand tenets — 53 percent of her women’s collection is made from sustainable materials, and the brand is vegetarian.” (Iredale, 2017). This is an example of how Kering are evolving their philosophy to cater to sustainability and ethically produced manufacturing within its brands. The definition of ‘high-quality’ has changed over years to mean more than expensive materials and fine manufacturing. It must now stand for benefiting every part of the supply chain and everyone involved in a garments production, as this aligns with consumers’ desires. Brands must evolve their brand values to be taken seriously by shareholders and consumers, thus building a more respected reputation, one that is not perceived as ‘frivolous’.

3.1 THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROFIT AND LOSS REPORT

The Kering Groups’ EP&L was initiated in 2012. The report accounts for all the environmental costs which accumulate during a garments manufacture. The report aims to “measure and monetise the costs and benefits generated by a company’s environmental impact, both within its own operations and across all of its supply chains.” (Kering Group, 2016). The report takes into consideration the air emissions, land use, waste, water consumption and pollution which are by-products of manufacturing raw material processing and production and is said to “make the invisible impacts of business visible, quantifiable and comparable.” (Kering Group, 2016). This report therefore holds the Kering Group and its companies accountable for any pollution caused by their companies’ supply chains, which builds a respectable reputation due to their development into supply chain transparency. Figure 6 is an example of the specific information available in the EP&L report. The table demonstrates the total environmental impact caused throughout the supply chain spread across multiple elements. The most significant impact is caused through the supply chain as a whole; assembly, manufacturing and raw material processing and production, with the latter contributing to 76% of the total. Kering translate these percentages into euros “to estimate how much the production of, say, a single leather handbag costs the environment” (Givhan, 2015). This type of management and sustainably conscious branding contributes to a respectable reputation due to positive sustainable brand values.

Figure 6: The Kering Group’s Environmetal Profit & Loss Report Results Source: Kering Group, 2017

The EP&L is available for anybody to read via Kering’s website. “When you are speaking about sustainability, if you keep it all for you, you won’t change the paradigm,” says MarieClaire Daveu, Kering’s Chief Sustainability Officer. (Givhan, 2015). By making this report public, Kering are encouraging other brands to take sustainability seriously whilst also influencing consumers to purchase from their brands. Something which is supported by a new survey as 81% of participants agreed they would take the fashion industry more seriously if brands made their environmental efforts public, 27% of these participants also state sustainability reports are an effective way of doing so (see appendix C). Kering believe that in order to progress, sustainable adjustments must be made in steps. For example, “the goal is not to ban wool or leather but to find more environment-friendly ways to produce it. Kering and LVMH are moving away from traditional tanning methods that use chromium.” (Givhan, 2015). Brands under the Kering Group are thereby associated with this level of ethical responsibility which results in a business which is respected amongst shareholders and consumers. This reputation opposes the level of frivolity too often associated with the luxury fashion industry, as Kering are thinking seriously about sustainability and how to better their clients supply chains to benefit everyone, from consumers to employees in emerging countries.

3.2 THE BENEFITS OF THE E P&L

Supply chain transparency is becoming increasingly prominent within the fashion industry and through the results of a new survey consumers are wanting to see fashion brands make their sustainability efforts public. According to the Kering Group (2017) the E P&L “enables us to consider environmental impacts alongside conventional business costs and place sustainability at the core of our business decisions.” Thus, resulting in a transparent supply chain. Kering relate their E P&L to five ruling benefits (Kering Group, 2017); 1.

“Better Insight: A deeper understanding of the most significant impacts and what is driving them.”

“Better Policies: A greater understanding of risks and opportunities.”

“Better Relationships: Valuable engagement with our suppliers.”

“Better Transparency: Building trust with our stakeholders.”

“Better Performance: Responding to change and assessing progress.”

Understanding significant impacts surrounding the supply chain leads to the possibility of finding less harmful alternative locations, materials or procedures. François HenriPinault, Chairman and CEO of Kering stated the E P&L “highlights where there are environmental impacts and also business opportunities, to then enable informed strategic decision-making that will underpin a more resilient business in the face of current and future environmental challenges resulting from climate change.” (Kauffman, 2015). Therefore, understanding risks and opportunities enables the business to prepare for any challenges ahead of time. A valuable relationship with suppliers results in knowing exactly where products are being manufactured, by whom and under what conditions. “The reputational and financial consequences can be devastating for a company if consumers trust is lost.” (Brophy, 2016). Therefore, if problems occur within the supply chain which result in environmental or social issues, consumers are more likely to blame the end-supplier (the retailer) rather than a manufacturer, resulting in a loss of consumer trust. Valuable relationships with suppliers can limit this loss of consumer trust. By open-sourcing their contribution to sustainability, Kering is not only holding themselves accountable for their actions but also influencing other companies to clarify their impact on the environment. “As more and more businesses see the advantage of understanding their impacts, business will become more sustainable and we will create more value for our consumers, stakeholders and shareholders.” (Kering Group, 2017). Social media and the web means brands are more exposed to the public and their consumers than ever. Supply chain transparency results in opportunities to build trust with consumers as consumers feel these brands have nothing unethical to hide within their supply chains, resulting in a strong business and consumer rapport and an increasingly respectable reputation.

CONCLUSION

Successful brands are the ones with â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural eco-advantages over they mass-market rivals.â&#x20AC;? (Givhan, 2015). They find the resources to develop alternative production techniques and maintain control over all aspects of their supply chain to enhance durability over disposability. Whilst also being aware of their target market and the knowledge that their consumers are not price sensitive if they are willing spend a high amount on a luxury product. Loyal relationships with these consumers can be improved through affective modes of communication, i.e. keeping up to date with their favourite social media platforms such as Instagram. This effective form of communication can work in unison with brands adhering to the developing sustainable desires of consumers to build an increasingly positive reputation. Supply chain transparency is another technique luxury fashion brands can utilise to improve the reputation of their brand as well as the lives of employees around the world. The Kering Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Environmental Profit and Loss Report is a key example of how brands can make their sustainability efforts public in order to hold responsibility and accountability. Luxury brands can incorporate awareness and innovative approaches to address important social and environmental issues such as worker rights, with the fantastical runway shows and campaigns the industry is so reputable for. This will minimise or replace the idea of superficiality, which often surrounds the industry, with an increasingly philanthropic status.

To be a successful luxury fashion brand in 2017 means more than just using organic cotton in t-shirts or recycled bulbs in flagships stores. It means optimising supply chain transparency amongst sustainable material sourcing. Finding substitutes for resources which are limited or harmful to the environment. Fair worker rights and ensuring the welfare of employees in emerging countries. Reducing waste in the manufacture of garments. Successfully accomplishing all these separate elements and still producing red-carpet glamorous designs.

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