Exploring the Future of Male Fragrance by emmawaite

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EXPLORING THE FUTURE OF MALE FRAGRANCE EMMA WAITE N0299843 FASH30001 NEGOTIATED PROJECT STAGE 1 002

fcp3

School of Art & Design ba

Declaration Form 2012/13 Module: Negotiated Project Stage 1 Module Leader: Tim Rundle Ref. no: FASH30001

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

signed .................................................................................................................... date .......................................................................................................................

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Introduction p.009

Methodology p.013 - 017

Context p.021 - 025

Market

p.029 - 033

Case Studies p.037

Retail

p.041 - 047

Consumer p.051 - 055

Strategic Outcomes p.059 - 063

Conclusion p.067

List of Illustrations p.068

List of References p. 069 - 070

Bibliography p.071 - 074

Word Count: {Excluding Quotes}

7,097

ENTS 004

CONT 005

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‘And so he would now study perfumes… He saw that there was no mood of the mind that had not its counterpart in the sensuous life, and set himself to discover their true relations, wondering what there was in frankincense that made one mystical, and in ambergrise that stirred one’s passions, and in violets that woke the memory of dead romances, and in musk that troubled the brain, and in champak that stained the imagination; and seeking often to elaborate a real psychology of perfumes, and to estimate the several influences of sweet-smelling roots, and scented pollen-laden flowers, or aromatic balms, and of dark and fragrant woods, of spikenard that sickens, of hovenia that makes men mad, and of aloes that are said to be able to expel melancholy from the soul.’ (Wilde, 1891: 124)

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INTRODUCTION Fig. 1. What do I wear in Bed? 2012

y interest in this brief comes from a personal, longstanding fascination with the fragrance market. This lead me to seek a job selling scented products, for the company Jo Malone London. My relationship to scent guided me to initial research investigating the market. According to MINTEL Woman’s and Men Fragrance (2011a) fragrances are forecast to grow 45% between 2011 and 2016; growth will be driven to a large extent by the women’s fragrance category, which is, ‘roughly twice the size of men’s scents’. The recession has inevitably made its mark on the market, with many fragrance brands slashing advertising expenditure and price increases deterring some male consumers, who could be particularly value-conscious

brands flood the market and fewer and fewer new products survive past the first year. However, as countries recover from the recession, creating and maintaining consumer interest will be vital. Brands will have to offer more in terms of originality, quality and the ability to thrill. when it comes to fragrance. A combination of the crowded market and the recent popularity of owning more than one fragrance should encourage for greater input into how the fragrance smells, and what feelings it evokes, the concept of customisation in fragrance could be conveyed to the mainstream market instead of just being coveted to luxury fine fragrances, there are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation. There seems to be a certain amount of fragrance fatigue, as celebrity endorsed 009

My aim is to fully research and have an in-depth understanding of the historical, cultural and social aspects of the growing male fragrance market leading to an authoritative report regarding the future of male fragrance. I will need to use this understanding in order to develop and answer my key research question, How to make the male fragrance market perform better? Leading to contextual investigations of market, fragrance development and consumer.

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‘If we knew what it was we were doing it would not be called research would it?’ (Einstein in Coughlan, 2011: Online)

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OLOGY R

esearch was undertaken to discover the current status of fragrance amongst males and what strategic outcomes could then be implemented into the scent market. The initial start to my research process was to identify a clear research question, to enable focus, depth and impactful research to my report. This involved understanding: how to make the male fragrance market perform better? Primary and Secondary research was carried out to answer this question.

PRIMARY RESEARCH A range of primary research was undertaken to target the richest outcomes for my investigation. An email interview was conducted with Giovanni Castelli and Antonio Zuddas, founders of the fragrance brand Blood Concept, to discover key thoughts behind the unusual source of inspiration and

METHOD

innovative concept. To gain a stronger understanding of the male consumer, 2 opinion formers were selected to conduct indepth focus interviews and a number of tasks were carried out to investigate menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s response to the marketing and packaging of fragrance. I visited the IJS Global Ltd office in Ashford, Middlesex to orchestrate interviews with 25 of the male employees, aged between 20 and 66, to enquire into their fragrance preferences and examine their attitude towards future recommendations for the fragrance market. The stylists at Jo Malone London, Kingston store were questioned to learn more about the process of selling fragrance and interactions with male customers. I also undertook Ethnographic research in a first hand study of working and selling fragrance. I worked for 3 weeks in Jo Malone London, Kingston Store, Fig. 2. Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, Film. 2006.

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using the method of self observation, keeping a record in a diary. Primary visual research was carried out with visits to stores such as, Bentalls, Boots and Jo Malone London, to survey the retail environment where fragrance can be brought.

SECONDARY RESEARCH Secondary sources were used to explore the cultural, social and historical aspects of fragrance. A key source of information was Ian Denyer’s BBC Four Perfume Series (2011) composed of 3 episodes. These provided insight into the fragrance industry and global trends. Van Troller and Dodd’s book (1991) ‘Perfumery: The psychology and biology of fragrance’ outlined interesting theories behind the emotional relationships individuals can form with scent, forming a starting point for later research undertaken. The novel ‘Perfume: the story of a murderer’ (1985) by Patrick Suskind supported research and painted vivid descriptions of the profound effect of scent. Future trend forecasting website’s were used to gain current news on innovation’s within the fragrance market. Further marketing visual research was gathered through various Men’s magazines.

Fig 3. Pages from Perfumery: The psychology and biology of fragrance. 2012

Fig 4. Jo Malone London, Kingston Store. 2012

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Fig 5. Eugene Marais. 2013

Fig.6. Bentalls Store, Kingston. 2012

Fig 7. Perfume Series, Episode 3 ‘Bottling the Memory’. 2011

Fig 8. Perfume: The story of a murderer book, 2012

Fig 9. Email with Blood Concept. 2012

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WHO

WHY THEM

RESEACH OBJECTIVE

Giovanni Castelli

As the founders of Blood Concept, they

To understand the thoughts behind this

and Antonio

were contacted on the hope of being the

unique concept of fragrance, learn whether

Zuddas Interview

Zuddas, founders of best possible resource to offer information

any of the fragrances had gender bias and

the Blood Concept

asses the potential of the brand adapting to

on the brands innovative identity.

Fragrance brand.

future fragrance possibilities.

Michelle Hughes

As a lecturer for my course BA(Hons)

To learn about CB I Hate Perfume’s store

Interview

University lecturer

Fashion Communication and Promotion

environment

on Fashion

I was aware that Hughes had been to

Marketing at

New York fairly recently and from previous

Nottingham Trent

conversation visited Christopher Brosius’s

University

New York store CB I Hate Perfume.

Opinion Former’s + Eugene Marais and

They were both chosen based on previous

To understand individual fragrance choices

Consumer

interactions I had with them and knowledge

and the reasoning behind them. To inquire

of their contrast in purchase behavior and

after purchasing habits of fragrance and

preferences concerning fragrance. Also,

see what they would possibly change

both men are within the target consumer

about the retail experience. To provide

age range, so their insights I believe

insight into male fragrance promotion,

to be valuable to my understanding of

and finally to analyze the strategic outcomes

the consumer and my decision making

for male fragrance and their personal choice

throughout this research. However, It

of development. From the initial interview,

was recognized that these opinions and

I then decided to complete consumer profiles

observations cannot be representative of

on both men, as I felt that they would fall

the whole of the male population.

within the target audience of my project.

Chris Young

Profiles

Male employees at

25 Male employees, All participants are full-time workers, men

to learn about men’s attitude to fragrance

IJS Global Ltd

20 participants work in two different but common occupations

and to see what they would prefer to

Focus interviews

in the IJS Global

and aged similarly to MINTEL (2012a) ‘core

develop in context of the strategic outcomes.

Offices in Ashford

volume users’.

and 5 work in the Warehouse, same location.

Jo Malone London, 4 Jo Malone

As working stylists their observations are

To understand the differences between

Stylist Interviews

London, Stylists

first hand and due to the brands work

helping a male consumer find a scent

which work in the

ethics, interaction with every customer

compared to a female. As well as common

Kingston store.

within store is necessary so they are able

descriptive words male’s use when

to give an authoritative report on observed

considering a fragrance to help assess

consumer journey and behavior.

men’s consumer journeys.

o WHAT

WHY THAT

METHOD EVALUATION

ETHICS

Jo Malone

Working in the Jo

Jo Malone London is a unisex brand, so stylists have interaction

Ethnographic

Rota,

London,

Malone London,

with both genders. Each fragrance has a story, as a stylist you

Research

Visuals,

Kingston Store

Kingston store for 3

need to know each individual narrative and the key descriptive

(Appendix 1)

Work Diary

weeks

words to be able to accommodate your customer with a fragrance which would best appeal them. This method allows me to witness the consumer journey from door to till, and contribute to the selection of products. 016

(Appendix 6)

METHOD

METHOD EVALUATION

ETHICS

6 questions were emailed to Blood Concept on 04 December 2012. They replied on 04

See Email Interview

Email interview

December 2012.

A (Appendix 1)

(Appendix 2)

6 questions were emailed to Michelle Hughes on 18 January 2013. I received a reply on 19

See Email Interview

Email interview

January 2012

B (Appendix 1)

(Appendix 3)

A 40 minute face-to-face interview at 8pm on 03 January 2013. The interview took place at

See Focus

Consent forms,

Eugene Marais and Chris Young’s shared flat in Ashford, an informal conversational tone was

Interview, Video

Transcription of

used to put both participants at ease due to the nature of the interview and the need for them to

Recording

interview, Visuals

engage in tasks. The ‘Blind Scent Test’ was videoed.

Responses

(Appendix 4)

(Appendix 1)

In the words of De Vaus (1993: 54) ‘Do not take the risk. Pilot test first.’ Due to the importance

See Pilot Test A,

Consent forms,

placed on these interviews for the outcome of my future recommendation, I conducted a pilot

Interviews,

Transcription

interview to test the questions in which I was to prompt my participants with and to check that

Photographed Data

of Interviews,

my explanation of the future recommendations was clear and easy to understand. This process

(Appendix 1)

Visuals

is detailed on pages 089 - 091 in the Appendix 5.

(Appendix 5)

10 minute face-to-face interviews conducted on the 21 December 2012, 22 December 2012 and 04 January 2013. Future recommendation choices were then photographed to produce contextual visuals and to help further engage the interview participants. The interviews took place in Ashford where the IJS Global Ltd Units are based. The questions I intended to ask were first piloted to ensure that the quality of the data was

Pilot Test B, Written

Consent forms,

relevant to my project and that the questions were easily understood. This process is found in

Questions and

Appendix 6 page 144.

Answers (Appendix

Answers, Visuals

6 Questions were asked of each stylist, between the period of 08 December 2012 to 02 January

(Appendix 7)

2013. Each stylist replied on the same day they were asked.

WHAT

WHY THAT

METHOD EVALUATION

ETHICS

Field

In store observations and visual research of

To improve my understanding of

See Field

Notes,

Research

Department store fragrance areas: Bentalls, Kingston

mainstream and luxury store environments, Research

and Boots, Nottingham. In addition, to London

comparing the differences and similarities.

Fragrance Boutiques: Penhaligon’s, Covent Garden;

Observe male consumer behavior, and

Visuals

and Diptique, Leadenhall Market.

the interaction between the sales assistant

(Appendix 8)

(Appendix 1)

Consent forms and

and customer in the different retail surroundings. Fig 10. Primary Research. 2013

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Ancients sacrificed man, then beast, then precious fragrance.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Dove, 2010: 21)

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CON TEXT P

erfumery is one of the earliest recorded crafts and the basic techniques of today’s perfumers are essentially the same as those of their Egyptian predecessors 4000 years ago. Ancient Egypt saw the use of fragrance as a ‘gift to the gods’ and was linked to immortality. The term ‘perfume’ was born from ‘per fumum’ meaning ‘through smoke’ (Jo Malone, 2012: 34) Ointments and Perfume Creams, were important in the hot Eastern climate. Creams protected the skin against the heat of the sun and counteracted body odors. Fragrant aromatic substances, including ointments, anointing oils, and incense are referenced in the Bible. They were used for religious, health,

personal and funeral purposes. From the Old Testament a formula considered a priestly scret was given by God: ‘And you shall make from these a holy anointing oil, an ointment compounded according to the art of the perfumer. It shall be a holy anointing oil.’ (The Bible, Exodus 30:22-25) Such holy perfumes were presumably intended to evoke a spiritual atmosphere, or a heightened awareness. Also, if we remember the Magi brought to the infant Jesus, precious gifts of the costliest perfumes of the East, (The Bible, Matthew 2:1-12). History tells us that the motivations in the different classes of society for using, buying or wearing 021

Fig 11. Aqua Di Parma. 2009

perfume have changed over the centuries. Yet the primary forces remain the same; they are money, power or seduction. During the 17th century we find that perfume was already perceived as a status symbol. Patrick Suskind’s (1985) novel, ‘Perfume: The story of a murderer’ narrates the story of a perfumer called Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, who has the peculiarity of having no personal odour. Grenouille lives only through smells and odour and becomes one of the most terrifying murderers of all time in his quest for the perfect perfume. One that will make others see him as handsome, charming and incapable of evil. Supporting fragrances tantalising possibilities of success, Van Troller and Dodd (1991: xvii) note how ‘smell retains a mysterious element’ because of the uncertainty of its function. The 19th century saw major social changes, giving people access to comfort such as, running water, electricity and beauty products. The discovery of mass production chemicals allowed for exciting new synthetic aromas and methods of extracting raw materials from natural resources. This made way for true creative perfumery, such as the fragrances of Fougere Royale and Jicky heralding the ‘golden age

of perfumery’ (Dove, 2010: 30), and recognition for many fragrance houses. As Carol Kino states, ‘There is another way to appreciate fragrance: as a pure art form born near the turn of the 20th century, like Modernism itself.’ (2012: Online) Fragrance exhibitions have been emerging, which aim to re-educate visitors on fragrance and their own sense of smell. The most recent exhibition ‘The Art of Scent 1889 - 2012’ featured at the Museum of Arts and Design, New York. The exhibition is curated by Chandler Burr (2012) who wrote the book ‘The Emperor of Scent’ (2004) and used to write fragrance reviews for The New York Times. The exhibition will use 12 fragrances to chart the evolution of modern perfumery. The minimal design of this exhibition will intrigue visitors, as it doesn’t rely on packaging or descriptions of raw ingredients in a scent. Visitors will enter a simple white cube whose walls dispense puffs of fragrance. The idea of scents being presented without marketing and packaging is new to the consumer. (Hotcher (2012) in Kino 2012: Online) Unlike almost any other kind of product on the market, Van Troller and Dodd (1991) explain

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‘the appeal of fragrance is predominantly psychological’. People feel strongly about fragrances yet it does not make anyone younger, richer or thinner. Humans have a deep-felt need to smell of something, and to perceive an odour emanating from others, as long as that odour is not their own body. Daly and White (1930), noted that the functional significance of perfume may not be for the purposes of disguising or masking natural body odour, as it is widely thought but to heighten and fortify natural odour. Supporting this theory, Pratt (1942) later suggested, perfumes ‘unconsciously reveal what consciously they aim to hide.’ This is another concept explored in Patrick Suskind’s novel, when Grenouille learns how to trap human scent with animal fat and oil (1985: 195). His intentions for this are to make a perfume; with the intended result of him being worshipped as a god. In reality, the idea that human odour informs identity is explored in Martynka Wawrzyniak’s (2012) exhibition “Smell Me”, at envoy enterprises gallery, New York. The show features vials of the artist’s scientifically extracted hair oils, sweat and tears. Suggesting that natural human odour is not as undesirable as previously believed.

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Fig 12. Preserving Scent, Perfume: The story of a murderer. 2006

‘I wanted to isolate these primal human essences and deliver them in an environment devoid of other sensual distractions. The piece represents the true essence of a woman – free of visual prejudice.’ (envoy enterprises, 2012: Press Release).

Fig 13. Smell Me Exhibition. 2012

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All cultures are aware of the attractive powers of pheromones. These have often been exaggerated, not least by advertisers trying to sell pheromonebased scents and sprays which claim they will make men irresistible to women. Haselton and Gangestad (2006) state through scent, humans can subconsciously tell if a potential mate will pass on favorable traits to their offspring. Research on human mating has found that the effect of scent on males and on females differs. Part of this difference is caused by the different motives each gender holds for mating. Kate Fox (2012) describes how all male pheromones are not equally attractive, Androstenol is the scent produced by fresh male sweat, and is considered attractive to females. Whereas Androstenone, is perceived as highly unpleasant by females which is produced by male sweat after exposure to oxygen. So, unless men are constantly producing fresh sweat and are either naked or changing their clothes every 20 minutes to remove any trace of the oxidised sweat, their pheromones are not helping them find a partner. However, in

the past, men it seems have felt less need to enhance their desirability with perfumes, or any other cosmetic. Their complacency is eloquently explained in this poem:

‘Essence of roses, fragrant aloes, paint, perfume and lust: All these are ornaments of women. Take a man; and his testicles are a sufficient ornament.’ (Moslehoddi Sadi (13th Century) in Fox 2010: Online)

Innovative new dating schemes allow participants to choose partners using odour recognition. PhD candidate Yongsoon Choi studies at Keio University in Japan, and is the project lead for Emphatic Fashion Media Sound Perfume. Sound Perfume is to be used as a new dating prototype, the existing system is designed as a pair of wearable glasses (see Figure 15), from which sound and smell are emitted.

Yongsoon (2012: Online) designed a system, that helps create memorable auditory and olfactory impressions when face to face with a partner. A person’s personalized sound and perfume is sent through the glasses from one user to another, establishing a scent and sound impression. The current format allows the user to pick from a choice of sound and fragrance samples. This idea of personalisation of scent and sound isn’t new, but combining these in fashion accessory could ‘inspire new developments in this area.’ (STYLE SIGHT, 2012a: Online) Fragrance is being used to develop science and technology especially in healthcare settings. Ode is a well being product which is harnessing scent to boost appetite especially for those who suffer with Dementia. ode was born from a collaboration between The Olfactory Experience and Rodd Design, funded by the Living Well with Dementia Design Council and the Department of Health. If successful, these sorts of projects can help reduce the financial strain placed on healthcare. For instance, ‘37% of residents in care

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homes are malnourished. Malnutrition costs the NHS around £13 billion a year compared to £5.1 billion for obesity.’ (Living Well with Dementia, 2012: Online) My ode organisation (2012: Online) explains how the discreet, unobtrusive product releases authentic, high quality food aromas at different times of the day to encourage interest in eating. Fragrance specialist, Lizzie Ostrom notes extensive research methods which were undertaken, and the many different food fragrances they tested with the occupants of the day cares, to see what scents they preferred. Ostrom mentioned clear successes with ‘traditional cakes’ and ‘nostalgic’ food scents. (Ostrom (2012) in STYLUS 2012a: Online). Ode is currently in final testing phase before being ready for pre-order. Once Ode is recognised for making an impact in nutrition and produces positive results, It can then be developed to involve different variations such as ‘calming moods or stimulating attention’ (Living Well with Dementia, 2012: Online).

Fig 14, 15, 16. Sound Perfume. 2012

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Letter to Hora For you, I dissolved the fragrances of time You circle my wrist. In this endless dance, you give me the light of time. And I offer in my turn, this perfume that will make tomorrow. (Nagel (2006) in ICONOfly 2011: Online)

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MARKET F

ragrance has proven to endure as the market has continued to grow despite the recessionary economic climate. However, growth is becoming more moderate of late, with mass-market products outperforming. Regardless of this, “fine fragrances continue to generate the lion’s share of value sales at 82%.” (MINTEL, 2012) According to Ian Denyer (2011) author of BBC Perfume Series, fragrance market does 60% of its business in the last quarter of the year. If the next big thing doesn’t fly off the shelves it will get pushed out the spot light and into the bargain bin. In relation to this idea, since 2011 there has been a designer fragrance boom. Fashion and beauty brands have staked lower price points on their fragrances. Both niche and mainstream fashion houses have made additions to their fragrance families with many joining the perfume market for the first time. STYLUS (2011a) reports that prestigious multi-retailer Harrods launched 27 new fashion

scents in 2011, with 9 more to debut. While department stores such as, Debenhams and Boots launched 24 and 21 new fragrances in 2011. Fragrance expert, Roja Dove, explains the reasoning behind the designer fragrance popularity as designer scents represent a ‘trustworthy choice’ in uncertain time. The allure of a major fashion brand’s name allows consumers to feel they are involved in a current brand (Dove (2011) in STYLUS, 2011a: Online) The market is also expecting a major shift in fragrance authority. Ann Gottlieb from the (2011) BBC Perfume series in the episode ‘The Smell of The Future’ concludes the Axe project by informing the audience that scent tastes which have been driven by the States or Europe are going to be directed by China, Brazil and India. Marketers are already preparing for a cultural shift, so in ten years scent could be guided by Chinese preference.

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Fig. 17 & 18. Perfume Series, Episode 3 ‘The Smell of the Future’. 2011

GROWTH will be driven by the women’s fragrance category. Women’s fragrances are expected to grow by

48%

between 2011 and 2016, while Men’s, are expected to

37%

report an increase of in the same period. (MINTEL, 2011: Online)

Fig. 19. Fragrance Growth between 2011 & 2016. 2012

Fragrances are

USED by

85% of British Women 69% of British Men.

Fig. 20. Fragrance Daily Usage. 2012

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The majority use fragrances daily, ‘two thirds of women and as much as 73% of men’. (MINTEL, 2012: Online) These statistics highlight fragrances importance as part of peoples daily beauty and grooming regime.

Fig 21. AH+OH Studio Concept Fragrances, 2010 Fig 22. Eight & Bob Packaging. 2012

Trends influence almost everything: industry, design, and the world of perfume. Success in the crowded market will come from products of unique appeal, that have stand out characteristics, their brand or product story needs to intrigue their target consumers. Brands which have been accentuating this narrative trend have done so in a packaging oriented fashion. Eight + Bob, JKF’s favourite fragrance, was sent to the US from France in cut-out books to avoid Nazi seizure in 1939 (STYLE SIGHT, 2012b: Online). The encasement symbolises how a scent can have a story, and how it’s identity is not just

it’s outer wrappings, the content is what makes the narrative. Another brand which took inspiration in great literature, was AH+OH Studios focusing on the distinctive, strong characters within their pages. In 2010, they created a concept of 4 male fragrances, each named after an author. Literature and fragrance are combined in angular shapes while the contrastingly modern lids represent a character from the author’s most renowned work. The bold, capitalised typography and strictly monochrome palette reflect the masculinity of the fragrances, which aim to convey the ‘dark sides

of men’s nature’ (AH+OH Studios, 2010: Online) Innovation is key in development, so when companies wish to capitalise on a trend and embrace it to resemble their brands identity, they need to be innovative. However, in the world of perfumery creativity has no limits and can transition into fantasy easily. Fifi Award winning Perfume Company Six Scents Parfums, continues to surprise the fragrance market with its unusual collections. The project announces its Series 4, Six Scents Characters: A Divine Narrative. In the past, Six Scents Series were constructed around themes, Six Scents: 031

Characters continues this tradition through a character study in the context of perfume. Six Scents (2011: Online) describes the collection to be ‘a collection were designers become authors, perfumers become narrators, scents become characters, and your experience is the story’. With each fragrance, physical, psychological and symbolic human attributes are assigned to every note to slowly reveal a fictional character imagined by 6 designers who collaborated with 6 perfumers.

In addition, food’s association with fragrance seems to be a reoccurring trend. The restaurant scene has witnessed dramatic innovation as restauranteurs are capitalizing on the relationship between taste and smell, allowing diner’s to literally feast on fragrance. Award winning Chef, Anne Sophie Pic’s Paris Restaurant, ‘La Dame de Pic’ explores the concept of a scent menu. A guest will choose their course by first smelling cards (STYLESIGHT, 2012a: Online) each card is infused with scent which is associated with flavours in the kitchen. Pic collaborates with Perfumer, Philippe Bousseton who helps her in the creation of the olfactory menu. Fragrance expert,

Chandler Burr is another who’s unique approach to scent has earned him and his experiments recognition in the fragrance market. Burr’s Scent Dinners are an intersection of fragrance and fine dining (Burr, 2009: Online). The ‘interactive gastronomic’ experience offers guests paper dipped in gourmand perfume, they must then guess which ingredients will be represented in the extravagant 7 course edible dinner (Burr, 2008). These dining experiences allow guests to choose their food, just like they would a perfume. The interaction between food and scent does not just conform to restaurants, perfumes are being inspired by cooking creations. Chef Philippe Di

Meo looked to stocks and broths to create his ‘Eaux Bouillantes’, Givaudan perfumers, Shyamaia Maisondieu and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto helped to transform the three broths into perfumes. The notion of finding food aromas attractive is due to things appealing to both our mouth and our noses which is why we think its ‘sexy’ (Gottlieb (2011) in Perfume Series, 2011). By developing scents relationship to food, fragrances could even be used to deter people from over eating. Released in 2011, ‘Prends–moi’, is the first fragrance to claim slimming benefits, from French perfumer Velds, developed at the perfume house Robertet. The Daily Mail reported that more than 6,000 British women

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had signed up to the waiting list for the product. The research study by Centre of Biological Research and Cutaneous Experimentation trialled the fragrance on women aged between ‘18 and 70 years of age, who were not on a diet, found that 75% felt the perfume limited the need to snack and 73% felt a feeling of pleasure.’ (London, 2012: Online). The perfume contains ‘betaphroline’ which release B-endorphins present in the skin. This triggers a sensation of well being and increase in contentment reducing the need to overeat. (STYLE SIGHT, 2012a: Online). This development in weight loss could also gradually lead to other areas of overall health improvement through the application of scent.

Fig 23. La Dame de Pic Restaurant. 2012 Fig 24 & 25. Chandler Burrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Scent Dinner. 2012

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‘Unlike fashion and nature, fragrance disregards age, colour and vantage… Our clothes begin to show lumps and bumps we wish we didn’t have but, like a true friend, fragrance is loyal, unjudgemental and kind.’ (Dove, 2010: Foreword)

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Fig 26. Harrods Fathers Day. 2012

our illustrative cases were selected with the aim of investigating how each brand’s identity has made an impact in the fragrance market and with the public.

identify each brands current relationship with the public and the strategy executed to achieve this status.

This research has focused on the traditional brand Old Spice, the popular classic Giorgio Armani, the innovative Blood Concept and the co-creative brand CB I Hate Perfume. Case studies can adopt different types of ‘quantitative and qualitative research paradigms’ (Eisenhardt, 1989: 532), and selected multiple data sources, such as detailed observations, documents, archives and interviews. Furthermore, case studies may also be used to build theory and are particularly useful in this context of trying to understand the complexity of the flooded fragrance market. The purpose of this research was to

To gain a stronger understanding of each brands individual qualities and to achieve the most relevant results for my research, I devised individual research questions for each case study. These included, how has Old Spice remained current? How has Giorgio Armani remained popular? How has innovative fragrance brand, Blood Concept developed in the current market? And, What is the CB I Hate Perfume co-creative perfume experience? Information from the brands websites, press releases and other public materials such as men’s magazines and market reports were used to compile an understanding of the brands most noteable selling points. (Case Studies can be seen in Appendix 9)

CASE STUDIES 037

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Behind the counter of light boxwood, however, stood Baldini himself, old and stiff as a pillar in a silver-powdered wig and blue coat adorned with gold frogs. A cloud of the frangipani with which he sprayed himself every morning enveloped him almost visibly, removing him to a hazy distance. So immobile was he, he looked like part of his own inventor. Only if the chimes rang and the herons spewed - both of which occurred rather seldom - did he suddenly come to life, his body folding up into a small, scrambling figure that scurried out from behind the counter with numerous bows and scrapes, so quickly that the cloud of frangipani could hardly keep up with him, and bid his customer take a seat while he exhibited the most exquisite perfumes and cosmetics.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Suskind, 1985: 48)

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RETAIL

Fig 27. Confused Customer. 2012

hen dealing with such an emotionally motivated purchase as perfume, creating an atmosphere of desire and sensory stimulation is essential. The sense of smell invokes a system of communication, whether that is a personal journey through tastes and flavours or in a store trying to acquire an education on fragrance. From primary research undertaken I observed both department stores and luxury perfume boutiques as both retail environments provide a different experience and visual motivations to purchase for consumers. According to Kate Shephard, Beauty store specialist, the best perfume stores offer completely ‘multi-sensory experience’ (STYLUS, 2011b: Online). Yet, due to consumer’s

prior interactions and knowledge of the familiar department store this emphasis on product immersion is not expected, as there visual merchandising is oriented largely towards displaying a large quantity of brands to popular appeal. However, improvements have been suggested such as gender differentiation in fragrance areas. Chris Young (2013, Appendix 4) says that fragrances are ‘not clearly marked’. This product confusion appeared apparent to me when carrying out field research I observed Alex Newbury in Bentalls, Kingston (see Appendix 8) seen in Figure 27, who appeared confused as he studied shelves of cologne for 10 minutes without interacting with a fragrance. Sam Naish (2013, Appendix 5) suggested that lack 041

of navigation was the cause of him not changing and trying other fragrances. Department stores rely on a pre existing brand awareness to communicate a fragrance’s identity, so the consumer has a set of expectations when interacting with the fragrance area. Brands are now allowing its fragrance to be sold in places is would not allow its clothing to be. Fragrance is the best way of ‘money-tising’ celebrity and brand, since you can sell it at a less premium price (Burr (2011) in Perfume Series, 2011). This demonstrates how sometimes a product is judged on the pricing and the advertising rather than fragrance contents, suggesting consumers wish to buy into the ‘desired lifestyle’ (Van Troller and Dodd, 1991: 191).

Van Troller and Dodd (1991) highlight that fine fragrance has always been sold on a service basis, the success of the interaction between the sales assistant and the customer depends heavily on the quality of the training given to sellers. As an employee of Jo Malone London, induction training is required to learn about the brand, scents, stories and in store service. After which, update training is an annual occurrence as well as attending training for new fragrance launches to learn about the scent and how it should be sold. This tuition is crucial to Jo Malone London as the stylists are the brands representatives to the public and need to be knowledgable so that they can help the customer make an informed purchase decision. A perfume is an intangible product, if a list of all the ingredients, descriptive words and narrative was on the bottle, it would still help the consumer little. Fragrance is based on emotions and sensations, the role of a sales assistant, is to assist

customers in decoding them. Selling perfume involves interaction between the consumer and the sales assistant. From primary ethnographic observation and responses from Jo Malone stylists, on many occasions men can be the initiators of dialogue. Stacey Penny (2012, Appendix 7) describes men as being more ‘direct’ this could account for them expecting a faster service then what a female consumer would. However, in a later answer she recalled how a male customer wished to smell the individual notes of the fragrance before he bought it, a time consuming, detailed request. This conveys how unique and personal a fragrance sale can be. Aiding an individual to find their own scent can give you insight to their personality, either by them explaining what they want or the seller prompting them with questions to discover their fragrance requirements.

whose customer service has become ‘legendary’ (Hathaway, 2012: Online), the brands philosophy claims to believe that the world doesn’t need more products, it needs better products (MiN, 2010: Online). MiN’s retail environment gives the impression of private home that owner Chad Murawezyk opened to the public, see Figure 28. WWD journalist Matthew W.Evans reports ‘the lettering on the shop window says it all: ‘MiN New York Apothecary & Atelier Men’s Grooming, Fragrances & Curiosities’. Building a partnership with customers is vital, the service needs to be impeccable to encourage consumers to return to the ‘showroom.’ (2010: Online) The store welcomes fragrance fan gatherings, independent niche lines and in-store perfumer visits, which has made them the nexus of the New York male fragrance enthusiasts.

MiN New York, is a store

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Fig 28. MiN Store, New York. 2011

Fig 29. In Store Jo Malone London, Kingston. 2012

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Fig 30. Spice Bomb by Viktor & Rolf Advertisement, 2012

Fig 31. L’Homme by Yves Saint Laurent Advertisment. 2010

Fig 32. Legend by Mont Blanc Advertisement. 2011

Fig 33. Aramis Advertisement. 2012

LIGHT/UNDERSTATED, BOLD/POWERFUL,AROUSING/SENSUAL, ROMANTIC/FEMININE, PLAYFUL/FLIRTATIOUS, MYSTERIOUS/EXOTIC, EARTHY/MUSKY, FRUITY/TASTY, MEDICINAL/BLAND, VELVETY/CREAMY Fig 34. Pairs of Adjectives. 2013

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Fragrance has no functional benefit to the consumer which could be considered a significant challenge when it comes to advertising. As you cannot sell perfume based on its features, consumers motivation to purchase can only be inspired by way of visualisation in the media. Busch (2003) explains that the human senses do not work independently, but in tandem to influence desires, decisions, and emotional responses. This feature of human perception suggests that fragrance advertising has the power to affect consumer expectations and convey the scent of the advertised fragrance. The most used suggestion is that the use of such fragrance will help the consumer in the accomplishment of one crucial social task: attracting romantic partners. This is never more obvious then when marketing fragrance to men, throughout history it has been ‘based around the power of attraction’ (Tungate, 2008: 15) and the representation of the male body. Toncar and Fetscherin (2010) explain that these sensory expectations result in the consumer evaluating the product based solely on its advertisement. To investigate this theory I compared my opinion former’s visual expectations from male fragrance advertising in the print media to the actual product evaluations. Four different fullpage advertisements for men’s fragrances from GQ (Jan 2013)

magazine were selected for this study. GQ was used for several reasons, for more than 50 years, GQ has been a premier men’s magazine, providing coverage of style and culture. The target audience is males and it is the ‘only publication which speaks to all sides of the male equation’ (Condé Nast, 2013: Online) The four advertisements used in this study were Spice Bomb by Victor and Rolf (see Figure 30), L’Homme by Yves Saint Laurent (see Figure 31), Legend by Mont Blanc (see Figure 32) and Aramis (See Figure 33). These specific advertisements were selected due to their prominent visual imagery and lack of written description. Four advertisements were chosen as I believed that multiple advertisements would provide broader inspection of my research objectives than a single advertisement would. Furthermore, when laid out side by side the consumer can clearly recognise and register subconsciously the obvious similarities between them, a key observation in my research. The selected pairs of adjectives in Figure 34, were used to identify the key elements of the visual advertisement and used again in the product evaluations. Since prior knowledge or experience with the fragrances used in the experiment could have an impact on the opinion

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former’s expectations and product evaluations, I asked them both whether they had seen any of the 4 adverts and whether they recalled smelling each of the fragrance. Only Eugene Marais had experienced L’Homme by Yves Saint Laurent (see Appendix 4) before the experiment, he expressed his admiration for the scent which I took into account when he gave his response. In my results, the visual advertisements appeared to generate fragrance expectations that were not met when the product was tested. It is arguable that advertisement creates a fantasy product, consumers are not buying the fragrance alone, but the imagery that is associated with the product. However, once consumers try the scent, they will either disregard the advertisement or change the association of the scent to become instead the overall brand image, particularly if that image is wellestablished and understood. Eugene Marais refers to the Aramis advertisement as ‘bold/powerful’ however, once tested he described it to be ‘medicinal/bland’ and commented how he thought of an ‘old man’s cologne, brands been around for a long, long time’ (2013, Appendix 4). This suggests a symbolic relationship between the visuals in the advertisement, the overall brand image and the actual scent of the product.

To further investigate into the meaning of advertisement, I conducted a Blind Scent Study (see Appendix 4) to see the initial reaction and interpretation of scent when all forms of marketing and packaging were removed. The results from this test were video recorded, as from experience I have witnessed that the first initial reaction of what the nose smells is conveyed by facial expression, screen shots have been taken from the videos displayed in Figures 35-38. Dove (2010) explains the reason for such physical and sometimes violent responses to fragrance illustrates the profound effect a recalled negative olfactory memory can have. In my results, what I considered intriguing was the change of authority in the participants reaction, when previously testing the advertised fragrances their responses and evaluations were efficiently stated, as such ‘this one has a more powerful/bold smell to it’ (Chris Young, 2013, Appendix 4) when analyzing the blind fragrance the participants appeared to hesitate and develop their opinion, as Eugene Marais evaluates ‘Its too fruity, the more I smell it’ (2013, Appendix 4). This suggests that when brand identity is unknown, men will respond to the scent differently whilst evaluating their own perceptions of the scent. Can advertisements featuring a handsome, obviously successful male inspire men’s purchase decisions? When discussing this theory with my opinion former’s it was evident that no current male celebrity endorsement was going to motivate buying (2013, Appendix 4). However, whilst on the subject Eugene Marais (2013, Appendix 4) expressed approval and enthusiasm for the Jean-Jacques Annaud directed, J’adore Dior fragrance Advert (2011),

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he mentioned how if he was a woman he would buy the fragrance due to the marketing. This suggests that, men’s engagement with fragrance could be energized by rejuvenation in male fragrance marketing. It appears that there is already a foundation of fragrance interested men thanks to the proliferation of fragrance enthusiast websites such as Basenotes, Fragrantica and Now Smell this, whose ‘most rapidly growing demographic is male’ (Long, 2012: 266). Online appears to be the medium in which men are discussing and producing their testosterone-charged fragrance reviews, blogs are being dedicated to educate on fragrance, such as Fragrance Bros and Scentrist. Another popular form of sharing information is through the viral video platforms, where reviews are sometimes recorded on the go. For example, Eddie Libassi’s YouTube channel Frunkinator features reviews behind the wheel of his car tagged ‘Frunk in Motion’ (2012). Acknowledging these fragrance opinionated, self educated men’s dedication to online communication could be the solution to engaging them with the marketing of fragrance. Designer, Diane Von Furstenburg launched in 2011 her ‘Diane’ fragrance, exclusively at Sephora in France, by staging a flash mob scenario on the banks of the River Seine in Paris. The celebration drew in quite a crowd and a video was then uploaded to viral platforms and shared all over the world.

Fig 35-38. Eugene Marais & Chris Young Blind Scent Test . 2013

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Is a man satisfied, merely because he is perfumed himself, to mingle with a malodorous crowd?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Bellemy, 1996: 62)

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CON SUMER Fig 39. Key Role of Consumer Preferences in their perception of Scent. 2013

Affective Response

hen individuals are choosing a fragrance, the choice and the following purchase, is a result of personal preference. The investigation into perfume preferences by Milinski and Wedekind (2001: 140) mentions how both woman and men wish to boost their sexual attractiveness by applying perfumes, evident from the advertising campaigns that have accompanied the marketing strategies of the perfume industry in the past. Also, the Bible describes fragrances involvement in sexual communication through verse, ‘fragrant is the scent of your anointing oils, and your name is like those of oils poured out; that is why maidens love you’ (The Bible, Songs of Songs 1, 3). However, even if the consumer had the intention of finding a partner, they would not wear or purchase a fragrance which they did not like themselves.

Approach/ Avoidance Reaction

As Gulas and Bloch (1995: 91) state ‘scent preferences are physiological in origin, others may be conditioned responses to experiences’ as your brain forges links between smells and memories. When you encounter the smell again the link is already

Objective Scent

Acuity Individual Characteristics Age Gender etc.

Physiological Predispositions Past Experiences

Perceived Scent Scent Preferences

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there to generate a mood or memory. This is why not everyone likes the same smells. In addition, research has indicated that scents paired with an experience often become powerful cues for that experiences for years to come (Laird 1935; Richardson & Zucco 1989). Figure 39, displays a conceptual model showing the key role of consumers preferences in their perception of scent. This diagram is congruent with the drawing of the Influence of Ambient Scent on Consumer Responses (Gulas & Bloch, 1995: 90) it incorporates the same ideas that appear when explaining the role of scent preferences within the consumers reaction to scent. My Primary Research findings highlighted however, that although scent preferences are strictly individual, the reason to why people wear fragrance has an almost unanimous intention, to ‘smell nice’ (see Appendix 5). Feeling good about yourself is a basic human wish and ‘olfactory ecstasy’ (Van Troller and Dodd, 1988: 168) was discovered very early on, resulting in fragrances fast adoption into the morning grooming ritual.

BRAND BRAVE

I USE THESE.

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Fig 40. Brand Brave Consumer. 2013

I SLEEP HERE.

Eugene Marais is a 27 year old, Key Account Manager. He currently uses 10 brand fragrances alternating everyday. His grooming routine consists of using brand fragrance shower gels such as, Caroline Hereira: 212, Black XS and Diesel: Only the Brave. For his face he uses, Bull dog skin exfoliator and Nivea sensitive moisturizer. When he wants to be clean shaven he uses a cut-throat razor, however, most days he will just use a beard trimmer. Describes his personal style as Smart/Smart Causal in the weekday and Preppy on the weekends. Can speak 4 languages and has started learning British Sign Language as his 2013 New Year’s resolution. He has a mild form of OCD and buys everything in pairs, arrange things in lines, shapes and sizes. In addition, for the past 8 years, when at home he has been eating all his meals with the same fork. He has a self diagnosed “condition” called Misophonia, the sheer annoyance of repetitive sounds. Loves to travel, especially to cities with great architectural structures which he can photograph. Enjoys working up a sweat being active, whether it is in the gym, playing rugby or extreme sports. Interested in furniture restoration, bespoke furniture and would happily go antique furniture shopping all day. He watches Restoration Man, Grand Designs and How it’s Made religiously. Along with X-Factor and Britain’s Got Talent when there on TV. Has a vast interest in music, some of his favourite artists include: Counting Crows, Tracey Chapman, Zac Brown Band, Mumford & Son’s or anything Country. His perfect meal involves a BBQ and a Carlsberg, with a full English breakfast the next morning to ‘cure’ the hangover. 053

SMART AND SPARSE

I USE THESE.

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Fig 41. Smart and Sparse Consumer. 2013

I SLEEP HERE. Chris Young is a 34 year old Accountant. Originally from South Africa, Cape Town. He moved to England 10 years ago and is now currently living in a shared flat in Ashford, Middlesex. He owns 3 fragrances which are Terre d’Hermès, Aqua Di Parma Essenza and New York Oud. However, he won’t wear them everyday, mostly on occasions such as a night out, event, etc. His grooming routine consists of a wet shave, or using a beard trimmer. He uses Dermalogica post shave moisturizer and Nivea non greasy body lotion. Describes his personal style as Smart/ Smart Casual, enjoys wearing a suit which is lucky as his job requires one everyday. Has skin allergies and suffers from eczema. Needs to be extremely careful when trying new products on skin, normally avoids perfumed products if he can. Enjoys cooking, favourite meal is steak and eggs. He will drink at least 7 cups of coffee/tea a day. Has an extensive collection of DVD’s and enjoys watching anything by David Attenborough, Live at the Apollo, The Big Bang and Natural Disasters. Interested in woodwork, would like to find the time to make more things, however thinks he might have lost the skill. Would like to move to a place that has a garden, thinks he would be good at landscaping.

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Men do change, and change comes like a little wind that ruffles the curtains at dawn, and it comes like the stealthy perfume of wildflowers hidden in the grass.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Steinback, 1954: 17)

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STRATEGIC OUTCOMES W

ithin my research I have explored possible directions for the development of the fragrance market. My study highlighted four possible strategic outcomes in which fragrance could progress, I presented my findings to my opinion former’s to gather intelligence on what a consumer would rather see evolve and flourish.

that there will be a shift in fragrance authority. No longer will we be influenced by London, Paris and New York instead our future tastes will be decided by Shanghai, Mumbai and Sao Paulo. (Gottlieb (2011) in Perfume Series, 2011) These locations will dictate the emerging scent trends rather than the traditional scent houses of Europe. (STYLE SIGHT, 2012a: Online)

My initial outcomes included the innovation in the consumption of fragrance with consumers striving for customisable products and tailor made experiences, digestible perfume is being developed. Self-defined as a ‘body architect’ Lucy McRae along with acclaimed Harvard biologist Sheref Mensu are in the research phase of producing ‘Swallowable Parfum’ (McRae, 2013, Online), a cosmetic capsule that enables human skin to emit a scent unique to each person. The development of which will open discussion with the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, fashion and technology industries, challenging the way we could consume perfume in the future.

The taste targeted trend of gourmand perfume is another direction which could flourish in the future, along with the continued study of the relationship between scent and over eating. This could see development of fragrances which benefit weight loss and other areas of overall health.

Research into the market indicates

Finally, looking at male fragrance advertisements from the past fifty years shows that the industry has depended on the effectiveness of ‘alluring slogans, provocative imagery, tactile packaging and scintillating perfume names’ (Van Troller and Dodd, 1991: 228). It has become clear that the visuals of the past will no longer be effective in the motivation of male purchasing. In this sophisticated age of instant 059

information, fragrance messages need to be engaging and fulfill there product promise. From my discussion with opinion former’s we analyzed each outcome, Eugene Marais appeared to favour the edible perfume (see Appendix 4). However, we did not arrive at a clear critical recommendation. I wanted my strategic outcome to develop from men’s perception, as realistically the future of male fragrance depends entirely on the consumer’s engagement with the concept. Consumer research was required to provide focus and clarify a direction for the future strategic direction. I conducted 25 interviews with the male employees of the Logistics company IJS Global Ltd (see Appendix 5) to see what there recommendation would be. I began each interview by asking about fragrance and purchasing habits to help set the participant at ease and further introduce him to the subject of my research. Afterwards, I explained the recommendations in a numerical order, which had the purpose of providing a precise choice. Furthermore, a photograph was required to conclude the interview.

SHIFT IN FRAGRANCE AUTHORITY

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EDIBLE FRAGRANCE

24%

MAN vs. SCENT vs. FOOD

20%

EVOLUTION OF FRAGRANCE ADVERTISING

52% Fig 42-67. IJS Global Ltd Interview Participants Future Recommendations. 2013

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Fig. 68. Tom Ford For Men Advertisement. 2007

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It is intriguing to find that the recommendation which received the most attention was the most simple yet has the potential it seems to be the most effective. Increasing awareness and appreciation of fragrance can be accomplished by re-evaluating and remarketing male fragrance. There has been some great press in mainstream media on the growing male fragrance market, as well as male fragrance reviewers legitimization on the internet. However, the audiences for these articles is primarily in woman’s fashion magazines, print media are still describing male enthusiasts as ‘guys who spray their sheets’ (Warrington, 2012: 22). Andrew Buck a ‘suit-andtie-wearing business consultant’ (Long, 2012: 266) writes a blog called Scentrist, inquires ‘When will GQ or Esquire wake up and recognize the need for better coverage than mediocre ‘best-lists’ of low-brow designer scents?’ (2012: Online) This observation can be redirected to fragrance marketers who need to recognize that men do like

fragrance, have individual tastes and don’t all want to smell like a business man in a suit, sailor or a cheating Casanova. Communication cues for men should be kept simple, a ‘straightforward approach’ is best (STYLE SIGHT, 2010: Online). Eugene Marais expressed his great dislike of the flowery aesthetic currently seen in Woman’s fragrance advertisement (2013, see Appendix 4). So when generating advertisement for men, it must get to the point and immediately explain the problem, solution and technology. Fragrance messages have often become superficial and vulgar, for example see Figure 68. As well as further visual sophistication, consumer’s will begin to demand for scientific substantiation of the advertising claims for fragrance to be met, especially if fragrance is to develop into new, exciting areas that will have some claiming health benefits. Online platforms show great potential for scent marketing, as male fragrance fans

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have already shown a particular interest in this medium. ‘People like to talk about brands. We now mention 20 or 30 brands a day during a regular conversation. So the world of mouth challenge is to get people to talk about your business. (Sernovitz (2008) in Ferguson 2008: 108). Viral marketing is becoming an essential tool to the marketing world, there are near to 1,000,000 video uploads every day and countless platforms for these to be shared such as YouTube, Google Video, Vimeo, etc. However, most professional uploads fail as they are commercial, contrived and inauthentic. Whilst viral campaigns are great for fast brand recognition, through the word-of-mouth or through social media. Creativity will be the key in gaining the fragrance market a receptive audience, combined with exposing the campaign to the market across multiple medians.

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‘The interesting thing about perfumes is that whereas you’ve seen all of the colours you’re ever going to see; you’ve heard all of the musical tones you’re ever going to hear. With perfume, you can actually have new smells’ (Burr (2011) in Belcon, 2011: Online)

{

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CONCLUSION Fig 69. Charl Marais Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty. 2012

n summary, of my investigation into the future of male fragrance and in answer to my research question, how to make the male fragrance market perform better? The strategic outcome I recommend is to develop more sophisticated and innovative marketing strategies for menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fragrance to rejuvenate there current dated and demeaning perception. It has been made clear from my research that all around the world

there is an increasing awareness and appreciation of the role of fragrance, and the role of the sense of smell in each of our lives. It is imperative that we heighten the awareness of the public to the sense of smell, including the

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historic, contemporary and future roles of this sense. Furthermore, if scent is to develop and adapt to a super-technological environment, consumers need to have the basic foundations of knowledge on scent and be encouraged to engage with fragrance, so that they are prepared for future scientific olfactory evolution. Harnessing the attention of the male consumer through advertising now, will be instrumental in helping to integrate future scent possibilities in their lives later on.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1. ‘What Do I Wear In Bed?’ 2012. By Aaron Francis Walker. [Editorial Image]. From Notion Magazine Issue 06, p.71

Fig 23. La Dame de Pic Restaurant. 2012. By Alexander Lobrano. [Online]. Available at: http://hungryforparis. squarespace.com/blog/tag/alexander-lobrano?currentPage=3

Fig 2. Perfume: The story of a murderer. 2006. By Tom Tykwer. [Film Still]. Available at: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/ perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/images/27191129/title/ perfume-photo

Fig 24 & 25. Chandler Burr’s Scent Dinner. 2012. By Pitti Immagine. [Online]. Available at:http://www.artinfo.com/photogalleries/slideshow-scent-dinner-by-chandler-burr?back_to_ article=node/827083#image=all

Fig 3. Pages from Perfumery: The psychology and biology of fragrance. 2012. Own Photograph

Fig 26. Harrods Fathers Day. 2012. By Arthur Woodcroft. [Online]. Available at: http://www.arthurwoodcroft.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/06/arthur-woodcroft-fragrance-harrodsfathers-day-aramis1-760x520.jpg

Fig 4. Jo Malone London, Kingston Store. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 5. Eugene Marais. 2013. Own Photograph Fig 6. Bentalls Store, Kingston. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 7. Perfume Series, Episode 3 ‘Bottling the Memory’. 2011. By Ian Denyer. [Screen Shot]. Available at: http://www.bbc. co.uk/programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Fig 8. Perfume: The story of a murderer book. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 9. Email with Blood Concept. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 10. Primary Research. 2013. Own Image Fig 11. Aqua Di Parma. 2011. By Craig Cutler. [Online]. Available at: http://www.details.com/images/homepage/ NovemberIssue/StyleSection/ Fig 12. Preserving Scent, Perfume: The story of a murderer. 2006. By Tom Tykwer. [Film Still]. Available at: http:// www.fanpop.com/clubs/perfume-the-story-of-a-murderer/ images/25053432/title/perfume-photo Fig 13. Smell Me Exhibition. 2012. By Envoy Enterprises. [Online]. Available at: http://www.wired.com/ underwire/2012/10/smell-me-martynka-wawrzyniak/ Fig 14, 15, 16. Sound Perfume. 2012. By Yongsoon Choi. [Online]. Available at: http://yongsoon.me/soundperfume Fig 17 & 18. Perfume Series, Episode 3 ‘The Smell of the Future’. 2011. By Ian Denyer. [Screen Shot]. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Fig 19. Fragrance Growth between 2011 & 2016. 2013. Own Image Fig 20. Daily Fragrance Usage. 2013. Own Image Fig 21. AH+OH Studio Concept Fragrances. 2010. [Online]. Available at: http://ahandoh.com/new/portfolio/scent-stories/

Fig 27. Confused Customer. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 28. MiN Store, New York. 2011. [Online]. Available at: https://minnewyork.com/manufacturer/min-new-york/ Fig 29. In Store Jo Malone London, Kingston. 2012. Own Photograph Fig 30. Spice Bomb by Viktor & Rolf Advertisement. 2012. By Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. [Advertisement]. Available at: http://www.creativeboysclub.com/viktor-rolfspicebomb-campaign-by-inez-vinoodh Fig 31. L’Homme by Yves Saint Laurent Advertisement. 2010. [Advertisement]. Available at: http://www.yslbeautyus.com/ L%27Homme/fragrance-lhomme,default,sc.html Fig 32. Legend by Mont Blanc Advertisement. 2011. By Peter Lindbergh. [Advertisement] Available at: http://models.com/ work/campaign-mont-blanc-fragrance-ss-11 Fig 33. Aramis Advertisement. 2012. By Nathaniel Goldberg. [Advertisement] Available at: http://www.glamourboysinc. com/2012/05/aramis-all-man-is-new-fragrance-for-men.html Fig 34. Pairs of Adjectives. 2013. Own Image Fig 35-38. Eugene Marais & Chris Young Blind Scent Test. 2013. Own Photographs Fig 39. Key Role of Consumer Preferences in their perception of Scent. 2013. Own Image Fig 40. Brand Brave Consumer. 2013. Own Images Fig 41. Smart and Sparse Consumer. 2013. Own Images Fig 42-67. IJS Global Ltd Interview Participants Future Recommendations. 2013. Own Photographs Fig 68. Tom Ford For Men Advertisement. 2007. By Terry Richardson. [Advertisement]. Available at:http://visualbuzz. tumblr.com/page/2

Fig 22. Eight & Bob Packaging. 2012. [Online]. Available at: Fig 69. Charl Marais Men’s Beauty. 2012. By Charl Marais. http://www.tatler.com/news/articles/december-2012/christmas- [Online]. Available at: www.charlmarais.com/wp-content/ 068 beauty-nine gallery/beauty/b20.jpg

LIST OF REFERENCES Wilde, O., 1891. The Picture of Dorian Gray. Hertfordshire: Wordsworth Editions Ltd MINTEL, 2011. Men’s and Women’s Fragrances - UK September 2011. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 08 August 2012]. Coughlan, S., 2011. Looking for the next google [online]. Available at: http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-12733522 [Accessed 18 January 2013] Perfume Series, 2011. [TV] BBC Four, Written by Ian Denyer. Originally broadcast on BBC Four, 12 July 2011.[Available at:http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Accessed 05 November 2012.]

Wawrzyniak, M., 2012. Smell Me, Exhibition held at envoy enterprises, New York, 20 October - 18 November 2012 [Exhibition catalogue] envoy enterprises, 2012. Martynka Wawrzyniak SMELL ME. [press release], 20 October 2012, Available at:http://gallery. mailchimp.com/6d625f41df0a2253a4d81aa7d/files/Martynka_ Wawrzyniak_press_release_final.pdf [Accessed 14 December 2012] Haselton, M. G., and Gangestad, W. S., 2006. Conditional expression of women’s desires and men’s mate guarding across the ovulatory cycle. Hormones and Behavior.,(49), pp. 509–518

Van Troller, S., and Dodd GH., eds., 1991. Perfumery: the psychology and biology of fragrance. London: Chapman & Hall.

Fox, K., 2010. The Smell Report. Social Issues Research Centre [online]. (September 20 2010), pp.13-15 Available at: http://www.sirc.org/publik/smell.pdf [Accessed 14 December 2012].

Suskind, P., 1985. Perfume: the story of a murderer [Das Parfum]. Translated from the German by Woods, JE. London: Penguin

Yongsoon, C., 2012. Do politicians ‘get’ transparency? Yongsoon’s DigiLog [online blog], 26 December. Available at:http://yongsoon.me/info [Accessed 27 December 2012].

MINTEL. 2012. Men’s and Women’s Fragrances - UK September 2012 [online]. London: Mintel Group Ltd. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/590313/ [Accessed 04 November 2012]

STYLE SIGHT., 2012a. Features: Scent & Seibility 11.06.12 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 03 December 2012]

De Vaus, D. A., 1993. Surveys in Social Research (3rd edition). London: UCL Press

Living Well with Dementia., 2012. About 04 ode [online]. Available at:http://www.livingwellwithdementia.com/ ode/#about [Accessed 04 December 2012]

Dove, R., 2010. The Essence of Perfume. London: Black Dog Publishing

Ode., 2012. About [online]. Available at: http://www.myode. org/about/ [Accessed 04 December 2012]

Jo Malone London., 2012. Raw Materials/Ingredients. The Update, (Spring/Summer), p.34.

STYLUS., 2012a. Vision>Scent and Dementia Sep 3 2012 [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 03 December 2012]

The Bible: contemporary English version., 2000. London: Harper Collins. Kino, C., 2012. Fragrances as Art, Displayed Squirt by Squirt. The New York Times [online], 15 November. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/16/arts/ design/the-art-of-scent-at-the-museum-of-arts-and-design. html?pagewanted=all&_r=1& [Accessed 20 December 2012] Burr, C., 2012. The Art of Scent 1889 - 2012, Exhibition held at Museum of Arts and Design, New York, 20 November - 3 March 2013 [Exhibition catalogue] Burr, C., 2004. The Emperor Of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession and the Last Mystery of the Senses. London: Random House Group Daly, C. D., and White, R. S., 1930. Psychic reactions to olfactory stimuli. British Journal of Medical Psychology., (10), pp.70-87 Pratt, J., 1942. Notes on the unconscious significance of perfume. International Journal Psychoanalysis., (23), pp. 8083

ICONOfly., 2011. The Watch - Art Portfolio - Christine Nagel [online]. Available at: http://www.iconofly.com/en/celebrates/ the-watch/art-portfolio/christine-nagel.html [Accessed 28 August 2012] STYLUS., 2011a. Fashion + Beauty> Designer Fragrance Boom [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 03 December 2012] STYLE SIGHT., 2012b. Trend Alerts Book Notes 09.04.12 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 04 December 2012] AH+OH Studios., 2010. Scent Stories [online]. Available at: http://ahandoh.com/new/portfolio/scent-stories/ [Accessed 08 December 2012] Six Scents., 2011. Six Scents: Characters [online]. Available at: http://www.six-scents.com/#/6S3_character [Accessed 08 December 2012] 069

Burr, C., 2009. What is a Scent Dinner? [online]. Available at: http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/page0/ScentDinner.htm [Accessed 09 December 2012] Burr, C, 2008. Chandler Burr: Astonishing Smells. [Podcast] January 2008. Available at: http://poptech.org/popcasts/ chandler_burr__poptech_2008 [Accessed 08 December 2012] London, B., 2012. The world’s first ‘weight loss fragrance’ revealed... and it already has a waiting list of over 6,000! The Daily Mail [online], 30 July. Available at: http://www. dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2181045/The-worlds-weightloss-fragrance-launches-waiting-list-6000.html [Accessed: 05 December 2012]. Eisenhardt, K. M., 1989. Building theories from case study research. The Academy of Management Review. 14(2), pp.532 STYLUS., 2011b. Retail>Alluring Perfumeries [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 04 December 2012] Young, C., 2013. Accountant: Interview with Emma Waite, Ashford Middlesex, 03 January Naish, S., 2013. Customer Logistics Manager: Interview with Emma Waite, IJS Global Office, 04 January Penny, S., 2013. Store Manager: Interview with Emma Waite, Jo Malone Store Kingston, 04 January Hathaway, A., 2012. The year in fragrance 2012: Part two, the movers, shakers, happenings and trends [online]. Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/the-year-fragrance2012-part-two-the-movers-shakers-happenings-and-trends [Accessed 06 January 2013] MiN, 2010. Philosophy [online]. Available at: http:// minnewyork.com/philosophy [Accessed 06 January 2013] Evans, W, M., 2010. MiN New York’s Niche Approach [online]. WWD. Available at:http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industrynews/retailing/min-new-york-s-niche-approach-3197933 [Accessed 06 January 2013] Busch, B., 2003. The scent of advertising. Global Cosmetic Industry. (June), pp.24-26.

Long, A., 2012. The Goodmellas. ELLE Magazine, November, p.266 Frunkinator, [pseudonym of Eddie Libassi], 2012. Frunk in Motion Summer 8-2012. [video online] Available at: http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQjSnNm7Cic [Accessed 20 December 2012] Bellamy, E., 1996. Looking Backward 2000 - 1887. New York: Dover Publications Milinski, M., and Wedekind, C., 2001. Evidence for MHCcorrelated perfume preferences in humans. Behavioral Ecology, 12(2), pp.140-149 Gulas, S, C., and Bloch, H. P.,1995. Right under our noses: Ambient scent and consmumer responses. Journal of Business and Psychology, 10(1) (Fall), pp. 87-98 Laird, D. A., 1935. What can you do with your nose? The Scientific Monthly, (41), pp.126-130 Richardson, J. T. E., and Zucco, G. M., 1989. Cognition and olfaction: A review. Psychological Bulletin, 105(3), pp. 352360 Gulas, S, C., and Bloch, H. P.,1995. Right under our noses: Ambient scent and consmumer responses. Journal of Business and Psychology, 10(1) (Fall), p.90, diag. Steinback, J., 1954. Sweet Thursday. London: Penguin McRae, L., 2013. SWALLOWABLE PARFUM [online]. Available at: http://www.lucymcrae.net/swallowable-parfum/ [Accessed 04 December 2012] Warrington, R., 2012. Goodsmellas. The Sunday Times, 3 June, p.22-23 Scentrist. [pseudonym of Andrew Buck], 2012. 2012 Fragrances: Highlights and the year in review. Scentrist [online blog]. 25 December. Available at:http://www.scentrist. com/opinion-2/2012-fragrances/ [Accessed 05 January 2012] STYLE SIGHT., 2010. Feature: The state of men’s grooming 08.06.10 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 04 December 2012]

Tungate, M., 2008. Branded Male: Marketing to Men. London: Kogan Page

Ferguson, R. (2008) Word of mouth and Viral Marketing: Taking the Temperature of the hottest trends in Marketing, Journal of Consumer Marketing, vol.25, no.3, p.179-182

Toncar, M., and Fetscherin, M., 2012. A study of visual puffery in fragrance advertising: Is the message sent stronger than the actual scent?. European Journal of Marketing, 46(1), pp. 52-72

Belcan, A., 2011. Olfaction, Chandler Burr’s Scent Dinner. [online] Available at: http://www.anothermag.com/current/ view/1548/Chandler_Burrs_Scent_Dinner [Accessed 19 January 2013]

Condé Nast., 2013. GQ [online]. Available at: http://www. condenast.com/brands/gq [Accessed 28 November 2012] Marais, E., 2013. Key Accounts Manager: Interview with Emma Waite, Ashford Middlesex, 03 January Annaud, J, J., 2011. J’adore Dior Fragrance advert [TV Advertisement]. Palace of Versailles, France 070

BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS Aftel, M., 2001. Essence & Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume. Utah: Gibbs Smith

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Burr, C., 2004. The Emperor Of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession and the Last Mystery of the Senses. London: Arrow De Vaus, D. A., 1993. Surveys in Social Research (3rd edition). London: UCL Press Dove, R., 2010. The Essence of Perfume. London: Black Dog Publishing Ellena, JC., 2012. The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the life of a Parfumeur. London: Particular Books

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JOURNAL AND NEWSPAPER ARTICLES

Gilbert, A., 2008. What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday. New York: Crown Publishing Group

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Busch, B., 2003. The scent of advertising. Global Cosmetic Industry. (June), pp.24-26.

McCandless, D., 2009. Information is Beautiful. London: Harper Collins Wilde,

Chui, D., 2011. The Best of the FiFi Awards. GQ [online], (15 April) Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/ articles/2011-04/15/gq-grooming-fifi-fragrance-perfumeawards-2011-chanel-bleu [Accessed 05 January 2013]

McCartney, W., 1968. Olfaction and odours. New York Springer-Verlag. O., 1891. The Picture of Dorian Gray. Hertfordshire: Wordsworth Editions Ltd

Daly, C. D., and White, R. S., 1930. Psychic reactions to olfactory stimuli. British Journal of Medical Psychology., Vol. 10, pp.70-87

Reichert, T., and Lambiase, J., eds., Sex in Advertising: Perspectives on the Erotic Appeal. New Jersey: Lawrence Erlbaum Associates

Eisenhardt, K. M., 1989. Building theories from case study research. The Academy of Management Review. 14(2), pp.532

Schroeder, J., 2005, Visual Consumption. London: Routledge

Ellen, P., and Bone, P., 1998. Does it matter if it smells? Olfactory stimuli as advertising executional cues. Journal of Advertising, 27(4), pp. 29-40

Scott, L. M., and Batra, R., 2003. Persuasive Imagery: A Consumer Response Perspective. New Jersey: Lawrence Erlbaum Associates Sherrow, V., 2001. For Appearancesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Sake: The Historical Encyclopedia of Good Looks, Beauty and Grooming. Connecticut: Greenwood Press

Ferguson, R. (2008) Word of mouth and Viral Marketing: Taking the Temperature of the hottest trends in Marketing. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 25(3), pp.179-182 071

Fox, K., 2010. The Smell Report. Social Issues Research Centre [online]. (September 20 2010), pp.13-15 Available at: http://www.sirc.org/publik/smell.pdf [Accessed 14 December 2012].. Gilbert, A. N., and Kemp, S. E., 1996. Odor perception phenotypes: multiple, specific hyperosmias to musks. Chemical Senses, Vol. 21, pp. 411-416 Giuliani, F., and Burton, C., comps., 2012. Eau De Divinite. [Editorial]. 1883 Magazine. Vol.7, pp.120-122 Gulas, S, C., and Bloch, H. P.,1995. Right under our noses: Ambient scent and consmumer responses. Journal of Business and Psychology, 10(1) (Fall), pp. 87-98 Haselton, M. G., and Gangestad, W. S., 2006. Conditional expression of women’s desires and men’s mate guarding across the ovulatory cycle. Hormones and Behavior. Vol. 49, pp. 509–518 Hirschmann, E. C., 1986. The effects of verbal and pictorial advertising stimuli on aesthetic, utilitarian and familiarity perceptions. Journal of Advertising, 15(2) , pp. 27-34

Punter, J., 2012. Arabian Nights. British GQ, January, p.173 Richardson, J. T. E., and Zucco, G. M., 1989. Cognition and olfaction: A review. Psychological Bulletin, 105(3), pp. 352360 Schroeder, J. E., and Zwick, D., 2004. Mirrors of masculinity: representation and identity in marketing communication. Consumption Markets and Culture, Vol. 7, pp. 21-52. Seitz, V., 1998. Direct response advertising in the US and European markets: a content analysis of fashion products. European Business Review, 98(5), pp. 268-75 Stoddort, M., 1986. The role of olfaction in the evolution of human sexuality: an hypothesis. Man. 21(3), pp.514-520 Toncar, M., and Fetscherin, M., 2012. A study of visual puffery in fragrance advertising: Is the message sent stronger than the actual scent?. European Journal of Marketing, 46(1), pp. 52-72 Warrington, R., 2012. Goodsmellas. The Sunday Times, 3 June, p.22-23

Jo Malone London., 2012. Raw Materials/Ingredients. The Update, (Spring/Summer), p.34.

Wyckham, R., 1987. Implied superiority claims. Journal of Advertising Research, 26(1), pp. 54-63

Labows, J. N., and Wysocki, C. J., 1984. Individual differences in odour perception. Perfume Flavour, Vol. 9, pp. 21-27

MARKET RESEARCH REPORTS

Laird, D. A., 1935. What can you do with your nose? The Scientific Monthly, 41, pp.126-130 London, B., 2012. The world’s first ‘weight loss fragrance’ revealed... and it already has a waiting list of over 6,000! The Daily Mail [online], 30 July. Available at: http://www. dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2181045/The-worlds-weightloss-fragrance-launches-waiting-list-6000.html [Accessed: 05 December 2012]. Long, A., 2012. The Goodmellas. ELLE Magazine, November, p.266 McQuarrie, E., and Phillips, B., 2005. Indirect persuasion in advertising: how consumers process metaphors presented in pictures and words. Journal of Advertising, 34(2), pp. 7-21 Milinski, M., and Wedekind, C., 2001. Evidence for MHCcorrelated perfume preferences in humans. Behavioral Ecology, 12(2), pp.140-149 Ohloff, G., 1978. The importance of minor components in flavours and fragrances, Perfume Flavour, Vol. 3, pp. 11-22 O’Sullivan, JM., 2012. Twelve. [Article]. Notion Magazine. Vol. 061, pp.70-77 Penn, D., and Potts, W., 1998. How do major histocompatibility complex genes influence odor and mating preferences? Advance Immunology, Vol. 69, pp. 411-436 Pratt, J., 1942. Notes on the unconscious significance of perfume. International Journal Psychoanalysis., Vol. 23, pp. 80-83

MINTEL, 2011. Men’s and Women’s Fragrances - UK September 2011. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 08 August 2012]. MINTEL. 2012. Men’s and Women’s Fragrances - UK September 2012 [online]. London: Mintel Group Ltd. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/590313/ [Accessed 04 November 2012] STYLE SIGHT., 2010. Feature: The state of men’s grooming 08.06.10 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 04 December 2012] STYLE SIGHT., 2012a. Features: Scent & Seibility 11.06.12 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 03 December 2012] STYLE SIGHT., 2012b. Trend Alerts Book Notes 09.04.12 [online]. Available via: STYLE SIGHT [Accessed 04 December 2012] STYLUS., 2011a. Fashion + Beauty> Designer Fragrance Boom [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 03 December 2012] STYLUS., 2011b. Retail>Alluring Perfumeries [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 04 December 2012] STYLUS., 2012a. Vision>Scent and Dementia Sep 3 2012 [online]. Available via: STYLUS [Accessed 03 December 2012] 072

ONLINE AFP Relax News., 2012. Prends-Moi, the ‘world’s first weight loss fragrance,’ takes UK by storm. [online]. Available at: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/health/prendsmoi-world-weight-loss-fragrance-takes-uk-storm-article1.1126692#ixzz2JY9NbBHE [Accessed 29 November 2012] AH+OH Studios., 2010. Scent Stories [online]. Available at: http://ahandoh.com/new/portfolio/scent-stories/ [Accessed 08 December 2012] Argent. [pseud.], 2012. The Whiff: Average Guy Fragrance Enthusiast & More. [online blog]. Available at: http://whiffguy. blogspot.co.uk [Accessed 10 November 2012] Armani., 2013. Fragrances - For Him. [online]. Available at: http://www.armanibeauty.co.uk/fragrance/for-him/acqua-digio-men.aspx [Accessed 07 December 2012] Basenotes., 2013. What’s new? [online blog]. Available at: http://www.basenotes.net/activity.php [Accessed 11 November 2012] Belcan, A., 2011. Olfaction, Chandler Burr’s Scent Dinner. [online] Available at: http://www.anothermag.com/current/ view/1548/Chandler_Burrs_Scent_Dinner [Accessed 19 January 2013] Belezina, J., 2011. Glasses emit personal sound and smell to boost your social life. [online]. Available at: http:// www.gizmag.com/sound-perfume-glasses-emit-smellsound/20886/ [Accessed 21 November 2012] Bendeth, M., 2012. The Proliferation of Perfume Communication and its Impact. [online] Available at: http:// theperfumemagazine.homestead.com/FEB2012/FEB-MarianBendeth-Proliferation-of-Perfume-Communication.html [Accessed 06 January 2013] Bishop, A. B., 2012. Diptyque. Fragrant Moments [online blog]. 02 January. Available at: http://fragrantmoments.net/ tag/diptyque/ [Accessed 16 December 2012] Blood Concept., 2013. Concept. [online] Available at: http:// www.bloodconcept.com/EN/concept.php [Accessed 10 November 2012] Brosius, C., 2013. Custom Blended Perfumes. [online] Available at: http://www.cbihateperfume.com/customperfume.html [Accessed 19 November 2012]

[online]. Available at: http://www.cafleurebon.com/real-menwear-perfume-interview-with-the-goodsmellas-100-min-newyork-gift-certificate-draw/ [Accessed 18 January 2013] Duncan. [pseud.], 2011. Sephora Sensorium – Lucid Dreams from the Sensory World. [online]. Available at: http:// theinspirationroom.com/daily/2011/sephora-sensorium-luciddreams-from-the-sensory-world/ [Accessed 16 November 2012] envoy enterprises, 2012. Martynka Wawrzyniak SMELL ME. [press release], 20 October 2012, Available at:http://gallery. mailchimp.com/6d625f41df0a2253a4d81aa7d/files/Martynka_ Wawrzyniak_press_release_final.pdf [Accessed 14 December 2012] Evans, W, M., 2010. MiN New York’s Niche Approach [online]. WWD. Available at:http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industrynews/retailing/min-new-york-s-niche-approach-3197933 [Accessed 06 January 2013] Fragrance Bros. [pseud.], 2013. Fragrance Reviews. Fragrance Bros [online blog] Available at: http://www. fragrancebros.com/fragrance-reviews.html [Accessed 10 November 2012] Fragantica, 2013. Fragrances and Cultures. [online bog] Available at: http://www.fragrantica.com/news/Fragrancesand-Cultures/ [Accessed 11 November 2012] Gallucci, J., 2012. He Hates Perfume. [online] Available at: http://moreintelligentlife.com/story/he-hates-perfume [Accessed 12 January 2013] Hart, H., 2012. Smell me Artist transforms Body Odour Into an Olfactory Self-Portrait. [online]. Available at: http://www.wired. com/underwire/2012/10/smell-me-martynka-wawrzyniak/ [Accessed 19 December 2012] Hathaway, A., 2012. The year in fragrance 2012: Part two, the movers, shakers, happenings and trends [online]. Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/the-year-fragrance2012-part-two-the-movers-shakers-happenings-and-trends [Accessed 06 January 2013] ICONOfly., 2011. The Watch - Art Portfolio - Christine Nagel [online]. Available at: http://www.iconofly.com/en/celebrates/ the-watch/art-portfolio/christine-nagel.html [Accessed 28 August 2012]

Burr, C., 2009. What is a Scent Dinner? [online]. Available at: http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/page0/ScentDinner.htm [Accessed 09 December 2012]

Living Well with Dementia., 2012. About 04 ode [online]. Available at:http://www.livingwellwithdementia.com/ ode/#about [Accessed 04 December 2012] McRae, L., 2013. SWALLOWABLE PARFUM [online]. Available at: http://www.lucymcrae.net/swallowable-parfum/ [Accessed 04 December 2012]

Condé Nast., 2013. GQ [online]. Available at: http://www. condenast.com/brands/gq [Accessed 28 November 2012]

MiN, 2010. Philosophy [online]. Available at: http:// minnewyork.com/philosophy [Accessed 06 January 2013]

Coughlan, S., 2011. Looking for the next google [online]. Available at: http://bbc.co.uk/news/business-12733522 [Accessed 18 January 2013]

Now Smell This., 2013. Perfume Houses A to B. [online blog]. Available at: http://www.nstperfume.com/perfume-houses-ato-b/ [Accessed 10 Novemeber 2012]

Devine, M., 2012. Real Men Wear Perfume: Interview With The Goodsmellas + $100 MiN New York Gift Certificate Draw.

Ode., 2012. About [online]. Available at: http://www.myode. [Accessed 04 December 2012]

073org/about/

Old Spice., 2013. Fragrance. [online]. Available at: http:// www.oldspice.com/en-US/products/by-type/fragrance/ [Accessed 07 December 2012] Parfum d’Empire., 2013. Events. [online] Available at: http:// www.parfumdempire.fr/en/evenement/4/exposition.html [Accessed 16 November 2012]

‘The Smell of the Future’, 2011. Perfume Series, episode 3. [TV] BBC Four, Written by Ian Denyer. Originally broadcast on BBC Four, 12 July 2011.[Available at:http://www.bbc.co.uk/ programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Accessed 05 November 2012.]

Paris by Mouth., 2012. La Dame de Pic. [online]. Available at: http://parisbymouth.com/la-dame-de-pic/ [Accessed 17 November 2012] Raif, S., 2012. Prends-Moi – First Ever Weight-Loss Perfume Hits UK Shelves. [online] Available at: http://www.buzzpatrol. com/prends-moi-first-ever-weight-loss-perfume-hits-ukshelves/ [Accessed 22 November 2012] Scentrist. [pseudonym of Andrew Buck], 2012. 2012 Fragrances: Highlights and the year in review. Scentrist [online blog]. 25 December. Available at:http://www.scentrist. com/opinion-2/2012-fragrances/ [Accessed 05 January 2012] Six Scents., 2011. Six Scents: Characters [online]. Available at: http://www.six-scents.com/#/6S3_character [Accessed 08 December 2012] The Scented Hound. [pseud.], 2012. Abbreviated fragrance reviews from one man’s perspective. [online blog]. Available at: http://thescentedhound.wordpress.com/the-scentedhounds-fragrance-collection/ [Accessed 10 November 2012] Voguepedia., 2013. Giorgio Armani (Brand). [online]. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Giorgio_ Armani_(Brand) [Accessed 13 December 2012] Yongsoon, C., 2012. Do politicians ‘get’ transparency? Yongsoon’s DigiLog [online blog], 26 December. Available at:http://yongsoon.me/info [Accessed 27 December 2012].

AUDIO VISUAL RESOURCES ‘Bottling the Memory’, 2011. Perfume Series, episode 2. [TV] BBC Four, Written by Ian Denyer. Originally broadcast on BBC Four, 05 July 2011.[Available at:http://www.bbc.co.uk/ programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Accessed 05 November 2012.] Burr, C, 2008. Chandler Burr: Astonishing Smells. [Podcast] January 2008. Available at: http://poptech.org/popcasts/ chandler_burr__poptech_2008 [Accessed 08 December 2012] Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, 2006. [DVD]. London: Pathé Distribution, 2006 Frunkinator, [pseudonym of Eddie Libassi], 2012. Frunk in Motion Summer 8-2012. [online video] Available at: http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQjSnNm7Cic [Accessed 20 December 2012] ‘Something Old, Something New’, 2011. Perfume Series, episode 1. [TV] BBC Four, Written by Ian Denyer. Originally broadcast on BBC Four, 28 June 2011.[Available at:http:// www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b012hs5p/broadcasts. Accessed 05 November 2012.]

074

APPENDIX 1

Research Method Evaluations p.076 - 078

APPENDIX 2

Blood Concept Email Interview p.079

APPENDIX 3

Michelle Hughes Interview

APPEN DIX

p.080

APPENDIX 4

Opinion Formers + Consumer Profiles p.081 - 088

APPENDIX 5

IJS Global Ltd Male employee Interviews p.089 - 143

APPENDIX 6

Jo Malone London Stylist Question + Answer p.144 - 150

APPENDIX 7

Jo Malone London, Kingston Store Ethnographic Reseach p.151 - 156

APPENDIX 8 Field Research p.157 - 159

APPENDIX 9 Case Studies p.160 - 163

APPENDIX 10

Tutorial Record Sheets p.164 - 170

APPENDIX 11 Time Management p.171 - 172

075

APPENDIX 1

RESEARCH METHOD EVALUATIONS

EMAIL INTERVIEW A I conducted the interview with the fragrance brand Blood Concept founders Giovanni Castelli and Antonio Zuddas to gain further information for my case study research. I found my results to be disappointing as the answers I received to some of my questions, were vague, undoubtedly rehearsed and not seriously considered. What I found challenging with email interviewing was the lack of personal communication and the restriction on the number of questions you can send as to not bombard your email recipient. In addition, email interviews lack the flow in which face to face interviews provide. Yet, I feel in this case it was the most convenient method to use due to the recipients being working professionals and living in another country. I resorted to secondary research to gather the rest of my information. If I found that I had needed to re contact Blood Concept I may have tried another method, or made sure my questions were worded in a way which would provide me with direct answers communicated in a serious tone. EMAIL INTERVIEW B I sent Michelle Hughes 6 questions via email. To inquire about her in store experience in CB I Hate Perfume. I found that this method of research was quick and convienient. It provided me with satisfactory responses to all of my questions. This method was chosen due to the nature of the specific subject of information required from Michelle. Acknowledging that I personally know Michelle, and she was aware of what my questions were in need for, may have provided a better understanding of the interview requirements, for example, detailed answers. FOCUS INTERVIEW I felt that the focus interview was the best method of primary research to use with my opinion formers, Eugene Marais and Chris Young. It provided me with in-depth insight into their thoughts on fragrance and their own personal association with it. I found that also due to the length of the interview we were able to progress to an informal chat so when I introduced my tasks which I wanted them to partake in, I received a better reception then if I was to try to ask them in a shorter, less familiar setting. The interview took place in Eugene Marais and Chris Youngâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shared flat, to make sure they were comfortable as I felt this would help me in gathering better results. A criticism of the focus interview was its tendency to go off topic quickly, as the researcher it was vital that I kept the conversation directed towards my initial questions asked. However, prompting conversation was a great way to reveal some really interesting perceptions on fragrance especially when it came to advertisements.

076

VIDEO RECORDING RESPONSES This was a method which I used within my Focus Interview, the positive results reflect on the success of the interview. Video recording was used to capture scent reaction, in the Blind Scent Test which I set my opinion formers, Eugene Marais and Chris Young. I found that even in the relaxed setting and reassurance of its confidentiality, there was still hesitation of being filmed. This made me question this method for future uses, as I feel it would present restriction in responses. In this case, I found the method to be extremely relevant, due to scent reaction being displayed most prominently through facial expressions. PILOT TEST A I used a pilot study to pre-test an Interview I intended to have with men about their fragrance preferences, shopping habits and the future possibilities of the male fragrance market. One of the advantages of conducting a pilot study is that it might give advance warning to any questions which may be unclear resulting in irrelevant answers. Pilot studies may also identify any potential problems in the research procedure. My initial form of gathering research was to be a questionnaire. I piloted the questions on a 27 year old male, Daniel Monrad on 10 December 2012. I annotated the questionnaire and unfortunately found it lacking in engagement and some questions were not necessary or the answers were too short for my liking, for example, the question on swallowable perfume. However, this then lead me to consider the possibility of using consumer insight in the process of evaluating my future recommendations. From this first study I then went on to develop my research method into a face to face interview, I re-worded a few questions which would be the backbone of my conversation. I administered the interview with Daniel Monrad on the 11 December 2012. This study was extremely helpful as I was able to prompt Monrad with another question, if I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel that the answer I received was satisfying. Also, with explaining my future recommendations it was essential that the information was easily understandable. So the pilot study was key in hearing Monradâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comments to identify any difficulties with comprehending my questions. It should be recognized pilot studies may also have a number of limitations. These include the possibility of making inaccurate predictions or assumptions because of pilot data; Completing a pilot study successfully is not a guarantee of the success of the full-scale survey. PILOT TEST B A pilot test was also administered to test my questions intended for Jo Malone London, stylists to gain information on there observations and interactions with male consumers. I found that due to being a stylist myself that the questions were easy to structure. I tested my questions on Laura Harverson, a current Jo Malone London stylist on 02 January 2013. I found her answers to be relevant and provided insight, so I did not alter the initial questions. I conducted the pilot test exactly as the real study was to take place. Due to this and the unaltered question I have included my pilot test into my main results for the question and answer method. INTERVIEWS I conducted interviews with 25 IJS Global Ltd male employees. This method was chosen due to the results of pilot test A. The interviews provided me with interesting and revealing answers, which would not have been achieved with a questionnaire. Although I did intentionally structure the interview in to a question and answer format, but the novelty of a face to face interview allowed me to probe into a question further if I was not satisfied my the given response. The interviewing process was time consuming yet I found that the results were extremely beneficial to my future recommendations. 077

PHOTOGRAPHED DATA I took photographs of all the IJS Global Ltd interview participants future recommendation choice, due to a pre considered data visual I wished to include within my report document. However, I found this to be a good closing for the interview process as it signified that their participation was extremely important to my research. The men hesitated to having their photograph taken, similar to the video recording method. I felt that because I had spent time conversing with them they conceded faster than if I would have been a complete stranger. Highlighting the added benefit of face to face interviews. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS I wished to further my male consumer understanding by asking other stylists to answer questions on their interactions with male consumers. I found this method useful, even though every encounter with a customer is individual you do find reoccurring themes of responses. I choose this method due to its simplicity, initially I intended to conduct a focus group with the Jo Malone Stylists, yet I had not took into account how busy the store would be over the Christmas period and taking into account that the store is open 7 days a week it would of been had to arrange a time for all stylists to participant. I felt that this method complimented my ethnographic research, I printed out sheets of the questions as well so that they were able to fill their answers in their own time, I feel that this achieved more detailed responses. ETHNOGRAPHIC RESEARCH I conducted ethnographic research by working in Jo Malone London, Kingston store for 3 week to understand male consumer values, needs and vocabulary. It required faithful reporting of what I experienced or observed, avoiding any interpretation or evaluation as far as possible. I felt that this method was essential to gain a full understanding of male customers and the selling of fragrance itself. The method I used to report my finding was through self-observation, which included me keeping a â&#x20AC;&#x160;dairy. Although this method involved the my subjectivity in the data collected, I still feel that it was valuable to get a report of working life, and my daily observations. FIELD RESEARCH Field research was achieved by by visiting a variety of stores which sell fragrance, to observe the different store environments comparing the differences and similarities of luxury boutiques and department stores. I was observing covertly to gain the most natural form of consumer behaviour. If I wished to use details of specific consumer behaviour of an individual I approached them after to ask for their consent and explain my project to them. This was to make sure my research followed the ethical guidelines. This method provided me with key observations and visuals, which allowed me to develop my research.

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APPENDIX 2

BLOOD CONCEPT EMAIL INTERVIEW

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APPENDIX 3

MICHELLE HUGHES EMAIL INTERVIEW

Verbal consent was sought and allowed to use Michelle Hughes answers within my work. 080

APPENDIX 4

OPINION FORMERS + CONSUMER PROFILES

CONSENT FORMS

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INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT Me: So welcome to this focus interview I will begin by explaining what will be involved in this evenings interview and just introduce you to my third year project studying a BA (Hons) Fashion Communication & Promotion course at Nottingham Trent University. So as part of my programme of study I am undertaking research project into The Future of Male Fragrance. To enable me to answer my research question I want to talk to you both about your opinions on fragrance and the shopping experience involved in buying it. Also as two of my prime consumers your opinion on future recommendations for male fragrance is invaluable. The focus interview will be a focussed discussion and will take approximately 40 minutes. We will concentrate on the following…Discuss your views on fragrance, your reaction to scent and shopping behavior. There will be two small tasks in which we will see what your preconceptions of current aftershave promotion material are and then if they are the same when your actually experience the scent. Then a blind scent test to truly see the reaction to scent when you take away the packaging and brand identity. Then after I shall explain my findings of possible future recommendations for male fragrance and discuss your views on them. The focus interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. Eugene: Yes ok Chris: Yeah Me: So why do you wear fragrance? the reasons behind it? Eugene: (shrugs) yeah i suppose so, just what you do same as you use shower gel to shower in Me: What kind of fragrance do you use at the moment? Brands? Bespoke? Eugene: Brands Me: What brands do you use at the minute? Eugene: (laughs) I’ve got quite a few, that’s a bad habit of mine. So many. My favourite is Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce, um i’ve been using diesel only the brave..you’ve got..

Me: No, whys that then? Chris: Haven’t been bothered in going shopping for one just yet. Me: Ah ok (to Eugene) so as someone who uses a lot of different fragrances, do you think there is alot of variety of fragrance for men out there? Eugene: Yes Me: What made you choose these particular fragrances? Eugene: Choose them? Me: Yeah Eugene: I suppose you go by what smells the best, but then again it’s always good to get testers to sample things first as nothing seems to stick on me y’know. I’m one of those i”ll use it once and i wont like it after a while but urm what made me choose it i suppose.. Chris: The advertising plays a pretty huge role.. Eugene: Yeah.. Chris: To see it be advertised on telly, you might end up buying it because of that Me: Because you see it Eugene: Yep Me: Do you find sometimes though, is it the same with men? That sometimes you wear something and I think because you wear it alot you can’t even smell it yourself Eugene: Yep Chris: Yeah Me: Would that factor in to you ‘moving on’ Chris: Yeah Me: Or as i’ve found from working in a store which sells fragrance people will come in with that complaint but instead of choosing a new scent will buy the same and just use more of it so they come in and say “i couldn’t smell it on me so i just kept spraying myself now i’ve run out again” Chris: Well thats good for the perfume company

Chris: I’m not using anything at the moment so.. 082

Me: Oh yeah thats great but..

And cause its not clearly marked and you stand there looking at this bottle of...j’adore and you go right wrong place

Eugene: I..I tend to do that. Me: If you cant smell it?

Eugene: And another thing that they do tend to let themselves down on is they hardly have any of the testing paper.

Eugene: If I can’t smell it the more I put on. Probably walk out the door and everyone musta goes euggggghhhhhhhhhh Me: Work from the feet up spray spray spray?

Me: Yeah so you end up spraying all over yourself..from observation I find men don’t like to spray on their skin that much

Eugene & Chris: (Laugh)

Chris: Yeah

Me: So where would you go to buy fragrance? Is it a department store or would you go for a brand shop?

Me: You ask if they would like to try and they say “no, no, it’s fine” “no dont want to” so testing paper is a valued aspect. So Chris when you are choosing a fragrance what type do you go for?

Eugene: Normally Debenhams Me: Debenhams

Chris: I’m allergic to most of them, so i’m very picky about which ones I go for. I have to test them first and then decide on one.

Eugene: Yeah that’s where I would usually get it from but maybe the odd fragrance store you get in Staines

Me: So you would have to test on your skin?

Me: Yeah, so would you browse a fragrance department/store even if you know you wasn’t going to buy?

Chris: Mmm Me: Do you ask for the tester vials?

Eugene: Yep

Chris: Yes

Me: Yeah, you would. Do you think that triggers when you buy more than the one fragrance?

Me: I wouldn’t think that all brands offer their tester though? Do you find that most mainstream brands are willing to give them to you?

Eugene: Yes definitely Me: Would you ask someone for assistance? Eugene & Chris: No

Chris: no not really. I usually have to go into the brand store or somewhere where they only have that fragrance.

Me: But in Debenhams though what i’ve personally found, i cant tell, you just walk past the thing, you dont know if it’s men’s or woman’s..

Eugene: At the moment how it works is I have to buy the perfume for him to test. There you go thats the answer to why I have so many.

Eugene: Exactly yeah thats the thing with Debenhams its not very clearly marked is it?

Me: Ok so that’s the end of the general fragrance and purchasing habit questions. The next stage is the analyzing of current fragrance advertisements. So the first Advertisement is Spicebomb by Victor and Rolf so just from looking at this advertisement if you could choose one or two adjective pairs from the list (light/understated, bold/powerful, arousing/sensual, romantic/feminine, playful/flirtatious, mysterious/exotic, earthy/musky, fruity/tasty, medicinal/bland and velvety/ creamy) to describe what you presume the scent of the fragrance is like

Me: No that’s why i didn’t know if maybe that made a change to how you shop for fragrance? Would you be more comfortable shopping for fragrance if you differentiated it a bit? Even if you moved it completely away so you had a woman’s fragrance section and then a mens? Eugene: Yeah Chris: Yeah cause at the moment if you walk into debenhams, its the majority is obviously womans perfume then right in the back corner, you have to walk through all the womans perfume to get to the mens. 083

Chris: Just from looking at the picture? Me: Yes

Eugene: Mysterious/Exotic Chris: Yeah, I agree Me: The next advertisement is for L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent

what you originally thought, especially you Chris. Next Mont Blanc’s Legend, so...let me peal this away (scent tab) Eugene: Very clean, really clean smell. I would say...

Eugene: Smells fantastic. I love it!

Chris : I think this one has a more powerful/bold smell to it

Me: Just from the advertisement though how would you presume it smelt?

Eugene: Yeah. It’s quite..quite a sort of go out on a date kind of sort of scent for me. Quite romantic

Chris: Mysterious

Me: So not bland then?

Eugene: Is it wrong if I say arousing?

Eugene: No definitely not.

Me: No not at all. Then there is Mont Blanc Legend advert

Me: That’s what I want to look at with this as at the minute the advertising is so bellow parr for some really great scents that people just don’t realise from the ads. Finally again there is Aramis...

Eugene: It looks bland.. Chris: I would say earthy Me: Finally, there is Aramis “all a man is” Eugene: bold/powerful Chris: Yep Me: Ok so the next step is that we will actually smell each scent, and after smelling it if you could again look at the list and choose a pair which you feel now truly represents the scent. If we start a again with spice bomb, if you smell that and then tell me what you think Eugene: It’s not really strong enough, again thats me like I like to overdose Chris: It’s got an old place smell to it, like it makes me think of an antique store Everyone: Laughs Chris: So I guess musky? Eugene: I would now actually say that it’s bland after having actually smelt it so obviously completely different to what I thought of the ad Me: Moving on to Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Chris: Are we suppose to choose one? Me: Yep an adjective pair if you wouldn’t mind Chris: I think playful now i’ve smelt it Eugene: I think it’s quite earthy. I really nice smell. Me: That one is nice. So again, thats quite different to

Eugene: I always think of an old man’s cologne brands, been around for a long, long time. It’s medicinal/bland I don’t like it. Yeah it’s definitely like Old Spice. You love it or hate it Chris: I don’t like it at all.. medicinal Me: (after smelling) it smells like something...It smells like soap. I think it smells like the lush shop. Chris: Yeah Eugene: Yeah exactly, y’know it’s very not like a fragrance. like you’ve used a bar of soap. Just had a shower. Me: So thats all of our advertisement test. So have you seen all of these advertisements before in magazines and such? Eugene: I..To be honest I haven’t seen Spice Bomb. I’ve seen all the rest. Chris: No I’ve never seen it before Eugene: No neither have I Me: Um so next is what I’ve titled a ‘Blind Scent Test’. I wanted to do this as obviously packaging and advertising the whole of the fragrance marketing is really strong and overpowering when it comes to influencing fragrance. So I’ve taken away the scents identity, you don’t know what’s in there. So it’s just going off what you think of the fragrance scent. Now I know with you Chris I need to test on paper, but would it be possible to video your response just so I am able to see what your initial reactions are visually? It will just be recorded on my phone so nothing big and intrusive 084

Eugene: It’s not HD is it? Me: I don’t believe so. Eugene: Good. Oh that’s fine Chris: Sure Me: So Eugene if you wouldn’t mind spraying on your skin or scent strip.... What do you think of that Eugene: I like it. I actually do. If I..obviously I don’t think it’s one I would normally go for, as its abit too fruity for me but I do like it. Smells a bit feminine though. I would still wear it though. I wouldn’t normally buy it. Me: Why do you say that? As you don’t know what the advertising or packaging is, from this scent how would you describe that? Eugene: The advertising if.think y’know a well groomed gentleman, sort of almost like Mont Blanc’s advert. I think thats the kind of advertising they would do for this. It too fruity, the more I smell it. Me: How about if you spray it on yourself? Wash it off straight after?

Eugene: I love it i’ll have it Me: The Lucy McRae Swallowable Parfum is still in the research phase. But from the research I have done into the product, you take the capsule, swallow it and then the scent emitted will be personal to you and the strength of it is down to personal attributes like how much you exercise, sweat etc. This capsule however, is said to produce golden droplets from your skin so I dont’ know how... I know Chris: very strange

Eugene: But I’m already covered in.. guess I could put it here Me: The scent of fragrances do change after a while. Eugene: On myself it’s quite quite zesty like erm lemon actually very it is. Just shows how different it can smell on your skin Me: Everyone smells different with the same perfume. Sometimes you think “god what have you got on?” and then you try it on yourself sometimes and it’s just not right. Eugene: Obviously after trying it on myself I don’t think I would buy it. Its abit too fruity. Me: No, that’s good that we tried that on you’re skin then. So Chris if you would like to spray the fragrance yourself on a piece of card and say what you think Chris: It’s almost like womans perfume.. Me: Really? Chris: It’s very spicy, it’s too strong. I don’t like it. Me: Initially you don’t like it, but what would you say the advertising for this fragrance would look like? Chris: I can’t see it on a guy. I see it as a woman’s perfume so I see more lady in red type advertising for this. yeah definitely woman.

Me: The top notes last for the first 10 minutes, then the heard notes come into affect and after half hour you will have the fragrances true scent. So the next stage is where i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. These are some visuals taken from a presentation I just wanted you to see some visuals so you’re able to get a clearer idea. So the first one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So what this is a capsule you take and then your skin will emit scent throughout the day

085

Me: It is a very strange concept but this is wear fragrance could be heading. Is to actually have digestible fragrance. So if I explain all of the briefly and then we can go back and discuss. The next one is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what ‘good’ scents smell like but um from research it now apears to be moving to more the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So thats who would be choosing and dictating scent tastes. The thing is the Middle East love rich and heavy same as Russia again they like the heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So it’s something that will be a seeable/smellable change. At the moment the current scents see men’s fragrance like the same as women’s having a real clean fresh scent to them. So these could be changing into more heavily perfumed tastes. The third one is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two example visuals here, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths, a french beef based Pot Au Feu, Japanese Miso which has seaweed and tofu ingredients to it and Vietnamese Pho? sorry my Vietnamese isn’t brilliant, which again I think has a vegetable base to it. What he did was team up with Givaudan perfumers to create, these perfumes which essentially were based around his broths.

Now, there are even restaurants where they have this whole scent dining experience, where before you have your meal, you choose, the menu is scent strip chosen. So you smell these strips and then you choose the meal from the which scent is most appealing to you.

Eugene: Then with mens advertising y’know in all the pages on pages of adverts, as long as they put scent strips in and I can smell them thats a good idea for me and I will then go into Debenhams and go try the actual bottle.

Eugene: ok

Me: Advertising does have a huge part in the selling of it

Me: So that’s another thing, there is a restaurant La Dame de Pic in Paris which is based on a scent menu. And then another kinda of concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which I cant remember the name of but it stimulates feelings of well-being which will then deter over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Then the final one, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising, whether this is something which needs updating, as even just having a flick through some of the popular men’s magazines they do appear to be all quite similar and with where with women now they’re starting to go into social media, bigger launches and events, but men’s are staying the same they have a man on the page, they have a bottle...

Eugene and Chris: Yeah Eugene: I think we’re so use to the man and the bottle on a page y’know I don’t see anything wrong with it. To me that seems better to me than sort of some of the woman’s advertising at the moment y’know it’s all flowers. Give us cityscapes and men dressed in suits and i’ll try it. Me: Ok thats fine so you’re interested in the swallowable? Eugene: Yeah Me: If it works successfully it could be great take a capsule and smell all day. But obviously there is a lot of things with it that could go wrong. All health kind of things so..

Eugene: The usual, absolutely it’s pretty much the same for every fragrance

Chris: Will you need a doctors letter to go buy a perfume? Bit of proof

Me: and it’s been the same thing for years now so maybe that needs to be updated before all these great concepts emerge, focus on the small things to get men more engaged with the fragrance market. So they are my four future recommendation I am thinking of making so now its really what are your opinions, you’re both men you both wear fragrance where would you like to see fragrance develop? I know there was alot of information just there.

Me: Medical all clear?

Eugene: I personally just think y’know if it comes in a capsule I think it’s brilliant er bring it on erm obviously as you know choice of perfumes comes from France/ London and they give us that clean smell that we all like I cant really see it, like China I just really cant see it. I don’t know to be honest. Me: China are leading the way with most things Eugene: Yeah I suppose Chris: I wouldn’t smell like food. It..its more of a I get it but I dont want it. (Eugene: No?) I don’t want to smell like water. I prefer to know what I’m gonna get when i bought it. erm I don’t like foreign smells so i don’t think thats a good idea. I think the market European perfumes in Europe Middle Eastern perfumes in Asia.

Chris: Pick them up like a prescription Me: Exactly, could this ever kind of work? Eugene: So its all your hormones which could effect it and it can bring on any smell? Me: Well thats the thing because it is only in its research phase, not alot has been said about the smell at all. All that has been mentioned it depends on your own kind of self your skin your smell your lifestyle whether you smell strongly or if its only a light fragrance, and that golden droplets appear on your skin as it’s emitted. So if someone perspired alot compared to someone who kept it in. Eugene: So is it going to be like the fabric softener? Y’know the fabric softener advert erm where these characters move and the more they move the more it emits a smell? Me: Yeah Eugene: Is that kind of it. Me: From looking at all the sources I could find I think 086

it is based on perspiration, that is how in the end the scent is emitted I believe. No the whole idea is on how much you move, sweat I think Eugene: So the less you move the longer it stays in your body

Me: Yeah, do you think that’s had a big impact, especially the Chanel advert with Brad Pitt? Eugene: To me that is one of the worst adverts. Chris: I dont get it

Me: They will definitely need alot alot of tests.

Eugene: no

Eugene: So you could end up with smelling exactly the same for a week. In a scent you could possibly hate because you’re not really active you dont sweat it out

Me: But thinking on that one they’ve said it’s either the worst advert or the best but it got everyone talking about it either way.

Me: Thats the thing will they have just one capsule or lots with all different kinds of smells as you would get with perfume. The other type of edible perfume was the drinkable perfume and this one was based on a value of water, it was for an exhibition. I doubt it smelt like Davidoff Cool Water however... but erm that was another thing under the same kind of idea. So it is definitely something in the works this different way of applying fragrance.

Chris: They got the advertising Me: And it was for Chanel No.5 which lets face it will never go out of style or not be brought. So it was purely for people to talk about it. Chris: But why do they use celebrities? Because a celebrity isn’t going to change my mind whether I’m going to buy it or not. I would say it needs to be updated or something, I’m always watching TV and there is not one which appeals to me

Eugene: I’ll definitely try it Me: Chris you might need to...

Eugene: Well put it this way celebrity can still y’know sort of i dont know. I suppose people think ‘I wonder if it smells as good on me as it would on them?’ Y’know to the extent you look at Charlize Theron for J’adore

Chris: I’ll probably die. (looking at the advert) Is that the golden drops? Me: Yeah thats the golden drops but obviously as this being an advert they might have exaggerated as I can’t think thats what it will actually look like because that is a bit extreme, walking down the street like that wouldn’t be ideal

Me: Oh My God.

Eugene: it is. It looks like woman’s body glitter. I’m slightly confused.

Me: If it would change me into her then yeah. We’re talking about the advert with all the old stars in like Marilyn Monroe etc?

Eugene: Y’know I love that advert. I think it’s brilliant. If I was a woman I would go out and buy that perfume just for that.

Me: No I think that is just an advertisement for it I dont think you would actually, well I hope you wouldnt because that would look awful.

Eugene: Yeah big big Marilyn Monroe fan Me: To be honest that is one of my favourite adverts I have to admit

Chris: It would. End up looking like a Martian. Eugene: Still try it though. Especially as y’know as you said like Men’s Health (magazine) is littered with adverts for mens perfume

Eugene: And the Gossip song as well

Chris: Its mostly adverts in them kind of magazines Eugene: Yeah... Me: I do get some strange looks now when I go in and buy all the men’s magazine these days. Eugene: GQ yeah and obviously using celebrities to advertise perfume...

Me: Thats interesting so you think everything affects it? So I still believe that advert is really inventive. So as a man, you know you have alot of half naked men jumping into water, dressing in a suit, like if they did something like j’adore would that be new and influence do you think? Something they haven’t seen for men? Not the standard advert. Eugene: Yeah, er well its obviously like the Hugo Boss advert where Ryan Reynolds walks in casually gets dressed er yeah like thats going to persuade me.

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I suppose that’s all down to whether you’re adventurous or not or if you’re quite upmarket that will probably appeal to you, you could be him, that looks like your life etc. I’ll buy that. I just want something that lasts long enough because when I can’t smell it I change. I don’t even think at work there is anyone’s perfume I can smell well maybe except Vicky Huges she covers herself head to toe. That the great thing about it you can use it and then make yourself feel nice. Me: Thank you both very much you’ve been a huge help.

Eugene Marais and Chris Youg in their flat where the interview took place

Chris Young’s DVD Collection

Eugene Marais’ Fragrance Collection

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APPENDIX 5

IJS GLOBAL LTD MALE EMPLOYEE INTERVIEWS

PILOT TEST - DANIEL MONRAD, 27

089

ANNOTATED PILOT QUESTIONNAIRE

PILOT INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT Me: Hi Dan, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview

will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Dan: To make myself smell good for a night out or for a special event 090

Me: When do you usually apply fragrance?

what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Dan: Just before I go out Me: What brands fragrance do you like? Dan: Paco Rabanne and Black XS Me: So you own more then one fragrance, why is this? Dan: Yes, the other one was given to me as a present Me: So would you personally buy yourself more than one? Dan: No probably not Me: Would you be able to describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics are if the scent was to best express your personality using adjectives such as warm, dry, sweet Dan: A warm, sweet almost happy smell with a touch of musky scent to it Me: Do you have a special scent, one that has a meaning behind it? Dan: No cant say that I do

Dan: Number 4 I think advertising needs to be improved first, not sure on all the other suggestions

Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? where do you go to buy them?

Me: Thank you so much for taking the time out to help me one last thing if you don’t mind writing the number down so I can photograph you. Thank you

Dan: I normally buy them online for myself Me: Would you be interested in a personal tailored scent made just for you? Dan: To be honest I’m really not that bothered Me: Next step i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations. So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are 091

Due to the vast amount of information delievered within this intwerview I constructed a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Your Questions Answeredâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sheet, which I handed out to every participant.

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093

PAUL SMITH, 43

Me: Hello Paul, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So Paul why do you wear fragrance? Paul: I wear it to feel fresh and clean. Also, to make myself pleasant to others, need all the help I can get! Me: I’m sure that’s not true. When would you say you usually apply your fragrance? Paul: I use it mostly when going out. Me: Do you not wear fragrance in the day then? Paul: Sometimes, if I’m in a rush in the morning it will be the most likely thing I’d forget to put on. Me: What brand names of perfumes do you currently prefer? 094

Paul: Paul Smith, the brand not my own personal scent! But it sounds pretty good if someone asks what I’m wearing. And Jean Paul Gautier the blue man bottle one. Me: Do you own more than one fragrance? Paul: Yes! Me: Why’s this? Paul: They were mostly gifts... Me: If you can would you be able to describe your ideal fragrance characteristics to me? Characteristics which would best express your personality, adjectives such as warm, dry, sweet... Paul: Hmm (pause) warm, light and spicy (laughs) Me: Do you have a special scent in your collection of fragrances? One which has a special meaning to you Paul: Yeah Old Spice, it remind of my Granddad Me: One of my case studies is on Old Spice, they’ve excelled in there re-branding have you seen the adverts? Paul: The smell like a man? Guy in the shower, on a horse and what not yeah I’ve seen them. That’s not why I bought it though! Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? where to you usually go to buy them? Paul: Not bothered about the shopping bit really, would go to a store, have been dragged around most of them! Me: Do you think you would be interested in a personalized, bespoke scent?

Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Paul: Number 3 definitely Me: Now If you could write that number down for me and let me photograph it that would great

Paul: Yes!

Paul: Do you want me to pose?

Me: Why would that be? Paul: To be honest (pause) it would most likely be along the lines of the LYNX effect HA! (laughs) Me: So the next bit is where i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) 095

Me: No au natural is fine. Thank you very much, its really is appreciated.

CHARLES HALL, 44

Me: Hey Charles, thank you for agreeing be be interviewed I will start by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So Charles why do you wear fragrance? Charles: To smell fresh and clean Me: When would you usually apply the fragrance? Charles: If Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going out for the evening and when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve finished showering in morning Me: What brands do you prefer to use at the moment? Charles: Tom Ford, Prada and Aqua Di Parma are my favourites Me: Do you own more than one fragrance?

096

Charles: Yes I own three, to change them daily I don’t want to smell the same everyday

concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Me: What would be your ideal fragrance be though? One which would best express your personality use adjectives such as dry, warm, sweet... Charles: erm zesty lemon and ocean fresh Me: Interesting choices, do you have a scent which means something to you? Charles: Yes, my Aqua Di Parma cologne Me: Why’s that? Charles: Rather not say Me: That’s fine, would you say that you like shopping for fragrance? Where do you usually buy your scents? Charles: Yes I do like shopping for them. I usually go John Lewis or House of Fraser

Charles: Number 4 fragrance advertisements are crap Me: Can you write that number down for me and let me photograph you holding it please i’d really appreciate it Charles: Ok sure, here

Me: Would you be interested in a personalized, bespoke scent for yourself?

Me: Thank you very much, you’ve been a big help

Charles: No it doesn’t interest me Me: So the next bit is where i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other 097

DARREN WHYTE, 33

Me: Hello Darren, thank you for agreeing be be interviewed today I will start by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So my first question is why do you wear fragrance? Darren: to smell good Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Darren: In the morning and when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going out Me: Are there any brands which you prefer at the minute? Darren: I like Diesel and Hugo Boss Me: Why do you own more than one fragrance? Darren: For some variation

098

Me: Describe to me your ideal characteristics of a fragrance which will best express your personality, using adjectives for example dry, warm...

eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Darren: Active and fresh smelling Me: Do you have a fragrance which has a special meaning to you? Darren: Nope Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? Where would you buy your fragrance?

Darren: Number 1

Darren: I don’t mind shopping for them, I usually get it from fragrance shops

Me: Thank you very much for taking part, the last final bit is the photo so if you would be able to write the number down and hold it up. (pause) thank you very much

Me: Would you be interested in having a bespoke scent? Darren: No, because I’m not that fussed about the scent being personal to me Me: The last part of this interview is where i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over 099

JOE FITZGERALD, 66

Me: Hi Mr Fitzgerald, Joe: Call me Joe Me: Thank you Joe, for agreeing to be interviewed I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information

you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) Joe why do you wear fragrance? Joe: It helps me to feel fresh after showering/shaving etc. for very long periods Me: When would you be most likely to apply your fragrance? Joe: After shaving and after the shower in the morning and prior to evenings out Me: What brands of fragrance do you wear? Joe: Dior 100

Me: Do you own more than one fragrance?

one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Joe: No just Dior Me: Why’s that then? Joe: I’m very happy with my preferred fragrance Me: That’s nice how long have you been wearing it for? Joe: Oh years and years Me: What would you say your ideal fragrance would be if it was to express your personality, could you please use adjectives Joe: Well it would need to be long lasting, dry and warm. But not too sweet or sickly Me: Do you own a scent which has a special meaning to you? Joe: Yes my Dior is special to me, my wife bought it Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance, where do you purchase from?

Joe: Number 4 I’m tired of seeing the half naked men with half naked women, at Christmas its the worse, every advert is fragrance.

Joe: Not really I only go to replenish my Dior at department stores Me: Would you be interested in a personalized scent for yourself? Joe: No, if I was to switch there are plenty already on the market to choose from.

Me: Thank you Joe, now would it be possible for you to write that number down so I can photograph you holding it? Joe: Yes

Me: The last part of this interview is where i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this 101

Me: Thank you very much

DEEPESH PISAVADIA, 34

Me: Hi Deepesh, Deepesh: You can call me Dee Me: Thank you for agreeing to be interviewed Dee, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information

you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) Why do you wear fragrance? Dee: After a shower or bath, it’s important to continue feeling fresh and smelling fresh. It represents hygiene to others and a sort of identity. Also you can cater to one’s mood and environment. Me: So when else do you usually apply fragrance? Dee: Mainly after a shower/bath, when I’m going out or meeting the girlfriend and generally when i know I’ll be amongst other people Me: What are the brands you currently use? 102

Dee: I use quite a few D+G, Paco Rabanne, Calvin Klein, Jean Paul Gaultier Me: Whats your reasons for owning more than one fragrance? Dee: They were all give as gifts...but I guess it’s good as I have a choice for different occasions and events Me: What is your ideal fragrance characteristics which would best express your personality if you use adjectives Dee: I like a combination of oriental/sweet. Sometimes when people use excessively it can be very sickly, so something subtle and long-lasting Me: Do you have a fragrance which has a special meaning to you? Dee: Not really, I’m quite flexible and like to try new things...I don’t make a conscious effort to purchase new fragrances, but it’s nice receiving as gifts. This helps me choose something when I do decide to purchase. Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? Where would you go to buy it?

starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Dee: Number 2, that sounds interesting. I think I would be interested to smell the scents that come from the Middle East I can imagine they use some beautiful ingredients

Dee: If I was to buy my own I’d usually go online or down the high street. And normally i’d prefer to go to the brand store Me: Would you be interested in getting a personalized scent bespoke to you?

Me: Thank you Dee now if you ca write the number down and hold it up so I can take a photograph that would be great. Thank you so much for your help

Dee: Theres so many to choose from that I don’t think i’d personally have the need for it Me: Right Dee, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is 103

DAN MORRIS, 24

Me: Hello Dan, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So Dan, why do you wear fragrance? Dan: Out of habit really, guess I wear it to make an impression Me: When do you apply it? Dan: In a morning before work and before going out in an evening Me: Do you have any brands you prefer to wear? Dan: Yeah, Diesel and Jean Paul Gaultier Me: Do you own and wear more than one fragrance then? Dan: Yes 104

Me: Why is this?

benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Dan: Well some were bought for me as presents and then some I’ve bought myself Me: If you were to describe your ideal fragrance characteristics which would best express your personality such as dry, warm, sweet.. Dan: Distinctive, long lasting, clean and fresh Me: Do you have a special scent which has meaning to you? Dan: Yes I do Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? Where would you go to buy them?

Dan: So I know I just said I I like freedom of choice etc but number 1 sounds really cool

Dan: I’m not particularly keen on shopping for them, if I do it’ll be duty free at airports. Less fuss and cheaper

Me: If you would be able to write that down and hold it up so I can take a photo that would be really appreciated. Thank you very much for being interviewed

Me: Would you be interested in a personalized fragrance? Dan: No I wouldn’t want a bespoke scent, I wouldn’t want to get fed up of it and I prefer freedom of choice. Me: Right now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming 105

ALBERT BULLEN, 49

Me: Hello Mr Bullen, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So to begin why do you wear fragrance? Albert: On occasions when I go out with my partner Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Albert: Normally after shaving Me: Do you have any brands whose fragrance you prefer? Albert: None really that I would describe as a favourite Me: Do you own more than one fragrance? What would you say your reason for that is? Albert: Yes I have been given them as presents 106

Me: Can you describe you ideal fragrance to me which would best express your personality using adjective works like dry, warm and sweet Albert: Erm clean and fresh Me: Do you own a special scent that has a personal significance to you? Albert: Yes I do, Coute Igor, my partner bought it for me when we was in Italy Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? where do you go to buy them when you do?

discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Albert: Number 4, advertising is so uninventive and ridiculously repetitive Me: Thank you for taking part in this interview, If you wouldn’t mind writing the number down and letting me take a photograph I would really appreciate it. (pause) thank you very much

Albert: I haven’t bough a fragrance in years Me: Would you be interested in a personalized scent, bespoke to you? Albert: Not really Me: Now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being 107

JON WICKS, 30

Me: Hey Jon, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So to begin why do you wear fragrance? Jon: I wear it to smell good Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Jon: In the morning and after having a shower Me: Do you have any brands of perfume you prefer? Jon: Yeah, Calvin Klein, D&G, Clinique and Issy Miyake Me: Do you own more than the one fragrance? Jon: Yes Me: Why do you think that is? 108

Jon: For variety

stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Me: Can you describe to me using adjectives, what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if it was best to express your personality for example dry, warm and sweet Jon: hm warm, sweet and spicy Me: Do you own a fragrance which has any significant value to you, a special scent? Jon: No I don’t

Jon: Number 4 advertising is the one I actually think needs changing/improving

Me: Would you say that you enjoyed shopping for fragrances? Where would you go to buy them?

Me: Thank you very much now if you wouldn’t mind writing that number down and letting me photograph it, I would really appreciate it thank you.

Jon: No I don’t enjoy it at all! I buy them at the airport Me: Would you be interested in a personalized scent just for you? Jon: No far too much effort Me: So Jon, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces 109

ROBERT PARKIN, 34

Me: Hello Robert, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So lets begin why do you wear fragrance? Robert: I wear it to smell good and it makes me feel clean and refresher Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Robert: Daily and in the morning when I get dressed and I will put it on again in the evening if I am going out Me: What are the names of brands that you currently like? Robert: Hugo Boss, Davidoff, Joop and Issy Miyake Me: Do you own more than one fragrance? Robert: No I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t 110

Me: Now can you describe to me what your ideal scent characteristics would be if you were to have a scent that best expressed your personality using adjectives such as dry and warm

Robert: Warm, spice, cool. Not to effeminate, light Me: Do you have a special scent which has a personal meaning to you? Robert: No Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances, where do you go to buy them?

Robert: Number 4 I think. There has to be a better way to advertise scent that this rubbish

Robert: I buy my fragrance from boots. I neither enjoy or dislike buying fragrance it is just something I do

Me: I think so too, now would you be able to write that down for me so I can take a photograph please. Thank you very much for you help

Me: Would you be interested in a bespoke scent tailored to you? Robert: Yes, it would be more individual to me Me: Yes plus no one else would have the same scent as you. So now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces 111

SAM NAISH, 36

Me: Hey Sam, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So why do you wear fragrance? Sam: I care about my appearance and how I smell is part of that, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel ready to go out without wearing aftershave Me: When do you apply your aftershave? Sam: Always before Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m leaving the house and maybe again while out if it is available Me: Do you have any brands which you currently prefer at the moment? Sam: Yeah I do, Issy Miyake and Caroline Herrera Me: Do you own more than the one fragrance then? 112

Sam: Yes! Variety is the old spice of life Me: I like that saying! Would you be able to describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if it was to express your personality? Sam: Errrrrrrrrrr warm? Not too sure, I don’t think of fragrance that way Me: Do you have a special scent? One which has meaning or personal value to you? Sam: Nope Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? where do you go to purchase? Sam: No I don’t like shopping for them. But usually boots or the airport. There is always too much choice and the displays are hard to navigate. So you stick to what you know rather than changing.

create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Sam: Number 4 the rest sound complicated and pretty unnecessary

Me: Would you be interested in your own bespoke scent, just for you? Sam: Not really, sounds overly fussy

Me: Thank you very much, now if you would be able to write that down for me so that I can take a photograph i’d be very grateful. Thank you

Me: Like to be quick and easy then?

Sam: My pleasure

Sam: Yes definitely Me:So now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to 113

PETER VENNER, 54

Me: Hello Mr Venner, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Peter: To make me smell good Me: When do you usually apply fragrance? Peter: In the morning after my shower or shave Me: What brands fragrance do you currently prefer? Peter: I like Chanel Bleu at the moment Me: Do you own more then one fragrance, why is this? Peter: Yes I do, I like to vary the fragrance

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Me: Would you be able to describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics are if the scent was to best express your personality using adjectives such as warm, dry, sweet

Peter: A musky, woody, dry fragrance for me Me: Do you have a special scent, one that has a meaning behind it? Peter: No Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? where do you go to buy them?

Peter: Number 3 is the most appealing to me Me: Thank you so much for taking the time out to help me one last thing if you don’t mind writing the number down so I can photograph you. Thank you

Peter: Not particularly, well not at all to be frank. I buy my aftershave at the duty free in the airport Me: Would you be interested in a personal tailored scent made just for you? Peter: No I’m really not that bothered Me: Next step i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over 115

MICHAEL WALTON, 27

Me: Hello Michael, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So Michael why do you wear fragrance? Michael: I wear it to smell nice, well nicer (laughs) Me: When do you apply fragrance? Michael: Before a night out always Me: What brand names do you prefer to use? Michael: David Beckham and River Island Me: So do you own more than one fragrance? Michael: Yeah I get them as presents from friends and family

116

Me: Can you describe what characteristics your ideal fragrance would have if it was to best describe your personality? Such as warm, dry, sweet

Michael: Nope

Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances, where do you buy from?

Michael: Number 4, there so boring something needs to be done

Michael: I don’t mind it really, bit annoying. Always just go to Boots. Me: Would you be interested in having a bespoke scent made for you?

Me: Thank you Michael would it be possible for you to write that down and then hold it up so I can take a photograph please? (pause) Thank you very much for your help

Michael: No not at all

Michael: No worries

Michael: Dry Me: Do you have a special scent which has some sort of meaning to you?

Me: Right i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being 117

MICHAEL MCCLOY, 36

Me: Hello Michael, thanks so much for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Michael: I wear it to smell nice Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Michael: Either when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to work or going out Me: Is there any brands which you prefer at the moment? Michael: Yeah Cool Water, Eternity and Joop Me: Why do you have more than one fragrance? Michael: To have some variety

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Me: Now if you can describe to me what the characteristics of your ideal fragrance to express your personality would be using adjectives like dry and warm

which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Michael: Mine would be warm and fruity Me: So do you have any scents which are special to you, have a personal meaning? Michael: Well Cool Water and Eternity remind me of when I was younger or times in my life when I first wore it, so that’s quite personal Me: Do you like going shopping for fragrances? where to you go to fins them?

Michael: Number 3 sounds good but it might be because i’m hungry now? No all joking aside it would be great if they could work out actual health benefits of using fragrance and food does smell delicious not sure of broths though but I love fruit

Michael: Not really. I shop online or maybe when I’m going on holiday at the airport, etc. Me: Would you be interested in having a tailor made scent just for you?

Me: Thank you very much for your time now if you wouldn’t mind writing the number down on a sheet of paper and holding it up so I can take a photo. Thanks again you’ve been really helpful

Michael: I guess, if I thought it was unique to me Me: No copycats then, so now I’ll tell you a little bit about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it 119

JAMIE SHEEHAN, 23

Me: Hi Jamie, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So why do you wear fragrance? Jamie: Sounds silly but to smell nice Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Jamie: Normally after showering Me: Do you have any brands which you prefer at the moment? Jamie: Ralph Lauren and Gucci the new ones Me: Do you use more than one fragrance then? Jamie: Yeah I use one everyday and the other is only for special occasions 120

Me: If you can, can you please describe using adjectives what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if it was to best express your personality Jamie: hmm different but not over powering Me: Do you have a fragrance which means something personal to you? Jamie: nah nothing like that Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? Where do you go to buy them? Jamie: I don’t like shopping period. If I’m buying one I haven’t had before I like to buy from a department store for the variety Me: Would you be interested in having a customized personal scent just for you/? Jamie: Not really I think it sounds expensive and with so many already being available I don’t think there is a need. Me:So now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it 121

LENNOX LLOYD WALTERS, 20

Me: Hi Lennox, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So lets begin, why do you wear fragrance? Lennox: To make myself smell better for the opposite sex Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Lennox: Before I go on a night out usually Me: Is there any brands which you prefer to use? Lennox: Yeah I like Diesel, Gucci, Paco Rabbane Me: So do you use more than one fragrance? Whyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that? Lennox: Yeah I do, there all for different occasions 122

Me: So if you can, can you please describe to me using adjectives what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if it was to describe your personality?

Lennox: No not really

Me: Do you like shopping for your fragrances? where do you go to buy them?

Lennox: Number 4 pretty bored of the advertisements they don’t appeal to me at all, I dont get it.

Lennox: erm occasionally, any fragrance shops not fussed as long as they have what I want

Me: Thanks so much for your time one last thing if you don’t mind writing the number down so I can photograph you. Thank you very much

Lennox: Hmm sweet, clean smell Me: Do you have a special scents ones that mean something to you?

Me: Would you be interested in a bespoke scent made personally for you? Lennox: No not for me Me: Next i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being 123

LOUIS MARTIN, 20

Me: Hello Louis thank you so much for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Louis: To smell nice Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Louis: Everyday without fail Me: Do you have any brands of perfume which you use or prefer? Louis: Lacoste, Joop, Hollister and Diesel to name a few Me: Why do you think you own more than one fragrance?

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Louis: I enjoy having a choice, different fragrance for a different day

Me: Do you like going shopping for fragrances where would you usually shop for them?

Louis: Not particularly, I usually get loads for Christmas/ Birthday but if I do shop for them I normally go to department stores

Louis: Number 3 I love my food, I can spray the foody smelling one on when i’m allowed to eat what I want and wear the slimming one for the diet days

Me: Would you be interested in a personalized scent for yourself?

Me: Thank you for taking the time out to help me one last thing if you don’t mind writing the number down so I can photograph you. Thank you very much

Me: Can you please describe to me your ideal fragrance characteristics which would best express your personality using adjectives such as warm, dry, etc. Louis: Subtle Me: Do you have a sent which is special to you? Louis: Yeah Joop Jump, as I would buy one every year from the airport on my way home from a family holiday

Louis: Not really it would be difficult to decide on how I would want it to smell. I’d be too influenced by others so it would be just like the others Me: So now i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other 125

CONNOR AXTEN, 20

Me: Hi Connor thank you for agreeing to be interviewed, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why would you say you wear fragrance? Connor: To smell nice mostly Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Connor: In the morning before work and whenever before a night out Me: Do you use any brand fragrances? Connor: Yeeeeeeees, Paco Rabanne, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, D&G and Lacoste Me: Quite a few then. Why do you own more than one? Connor: I know I own quite alot, I like to variety 126

Me: Can you describe fragrance characteristics which you would want your ideal fragrance to have for it to best express your personality

Connor: erm sweet and/or musky Me: Do you have a special scent which has a personal meaning to you? Connor: I use Jean Paul Gaultier a lot as this was the first fragrance I was brought Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances, where do you go to buy them?

Connor: Number 1 sounds so interesting I’d go for that

Connor: I do like shopping for fragrances, I usually buy from beauty base or the fragrance shop

Me: Do you mind writing that down so I can take a photo of it and you together. Thank you very much for helping me

Me: Do you think you would you be interested in a bespoke scent which has been made just for you? Connor: Yes I would as it would be unique to myself and no one would smell like me, I’d like that Me: Now the next part is i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces 127

SIMON BROWN, 31

Me: Hello Simon, thanks so much for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Simon: To smell nice and feel dressed up Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Simon: Normally before going on a night out Me: Do you use any branded fragrance? Simon: Yes Channel, Issy Miyake and Fahrenheit Me: So you have more than one fragrance, why? Simon: Yes I do most of them are presents bought by others

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Me: Simon can you describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if the fragrance was to express your personality using adjectives like dry and warm

Simon: Erm yeah so golden brown Me: Do you have a scent which is special to you? Simon: Yeah I do Me: Would you mind telling me what one? Simon: Of course not, Fahrenheit it reminds me of adolescence Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances wheres your normal place to hunt for them?

Simon: Number 4. I really really hate the advertisements for fragrance especially the Brad Pitt one playing all the time now.

Simon: No I don’t but I don’t like shopping at all, if I have to go it would be to a department store though. Easy buying Me: Would you be interested in a personalized scent for yourself? Simon: Yeah I believe I would be, it’s always good to be individual Me: Right the next part is Simon i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other 129

Me: Do you mind just writing that down for me so I can take a photo of it and you together. Thank you very I really appreciated your help

TOBY NAISH, 32

Me: Hello Toby thank you for agreeing to be interviewed and letting me do all this for my research dissertation, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your

contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why would you say you wear fragrance? Toby: I wear to smell nice and boost my confidence Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Toby: In the morning before work and before going out in the evening Me: Is there any brand fragrances you like? Toby: Yeah there is, 212 by Carolina Herrera, Hugo by Hugo Boss, the Issy Miyake one and Happy by Clinque Me: Do you actually own more than one fragrance? Toby: Yes 130

Me: Why do you think that is? Toby: Usually due to purchasing at duty free on offers Me: Dangerous territory Toby: You bet Me: So can you please describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics are if it was to best describe your personality using adjectives like dry and warm and sweet Toby: Err a strong fresh lasting scent Me: Do you have a special scent which has a personal meaning to you? Toby: I have used the same scents for many years so maybe they all have some meaning to me, I’m not sure Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? Where do you go to buy new scents or replenish? Toby: Usually only purchase at duty free before holiday to get a good deal and kill some time

di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Toby: I’m going to say Number 4. I’m not a fan of the advertisements there is not one I can say I like Me: Would you mind writing that down for me so I can take a photo. Thank you very much for your help Toby.

Me: Would you ever be interested in a bespoke scent thats tailored to you? Toby: Not really something I would be interested in would imagine it would be very expensive Me: So now i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe 131

GRAHAM BARRETT, 47

Me: Hello Graham, thanks for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So firstly why do you wear fragrance? Graham: I wear it to smell good and feel good about myself Me: When do you usually apply your fragrance? Graham: Normally prior to going out Me: Is there any brands of fragrance that you like at the moment? Graham: Well theres NEXTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Signature, Happy by Clinque and Gucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rush Me: Do you own more than one fragrance?

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Graham: Yes they were presents mostly but clinque I noticed on someone else so I went out and bought it Me: Can you please describe to me your ideal fragrance characteristics which would best express your personality using adjectives such as warm, dry, etc. Graham: For me it would be soapy and clean Me: Do you have a sent which is special to you? Graham: No I don’t Me: Do you like shopping for fragrances? Where do you go to look for scents? Graham: I go to department stores and I’d like it more if it was more male dominated department away from the female scents Me: Would you be interested in a bespoke scent tailored to you? Graham: No I’ve got no need for one Me: This is the last part now where I tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have 133

slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop. Graham: I think Number 4 thats the only option which would mean anything to me Me: Now if you wouldn’t mind can you write that down for me so I can take a photo. Thank you for your help

MICK BEENHAM, 41

Me: Hey Mick, thanks so much for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So to begin can I ask why do you wear fragrance? Mick: I wear fragrances because I like to smell fresh and clean Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Mick: Normally I spray it after a shower Me: What brands do you currently prefer? Mick: I do not have a preference to a particular brand Me: Do you own more than one fragrance? Mick: I do own more than one, these are usually given to as gifts though 134

Me: Now can you describe to me what your ideal scent characteristics would be if you were to have a scent that best expressed your personality using adjectives such as dry and warm

Mick: It would be dry and fresh Me: Do you have a special scent which has a personal meaning to you? Mick: No I don’t, I’m not that bothered about it Me: Would you say you like shopping for fragrances, where do you go to buy them? Mick: I do find the large choice of fragrances a distraction when shopping in large department stores so not really

Mick: Number 1 as this seems the most out there if you will and future like Me: Thank you very much now would you be able to write that down for me so I can take a photograph please. Thank you for you help

Me: Would you be interested in a personalized fragrance? Mick: This would be interesting to try as a fragrance differs between person to person Me: Yes plus no one else would ever smell quite like you. Now, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have 135

DALE PEARCE, 29

Me: Hello Dale, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed

to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) Can I ask why do you wear fragrance? Dale: I wear it to smell good Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Dale: I forget to put it on quite alot so nights out or special events are normally my main times like birthdayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out Me: Do you have any brand fragrances which you prefer? Dale: Hugo Boss and Armani are my favourites Me: So do you own more than one fragrance, why? Dale: Yes I do and they were gifts from different people 136

Me: Can you describe for me your ideal characteristics of a fragrance which would best describe your personality using adjectives like dry and sweet

Dale: I would have to say warm and subtle Me: Do you have any fragrances which have a special meaning to you? Dale: No none of them are personal Me: Do you like going shopping for fragrances? Where do you usually go to get them?

Dale: Number 1, sounds crazy this one interests me the most if I’m honest

Dale: I do not like shopping for fragrances, if I do it it’s usually for others and in a regular department store

Me: Thank you very much now if you wouldn’t mind writing the number down and hold it up so I can take a photograph that would be great. Thank you so much for your help again

Me: Would you have a bespoke fragrance created for yourself? Dale: No I am happy with the scents on the market don’t need any more Me: Right Dale, i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over 137

DANIEL WITTERIDGE, 32

Me: Hi Daniel, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So to start can you tell me why do you wear fragrance? Daniel: I wear it to smell nice Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Daniel: Normally before work or before going out Me: Do you have any brands of fragrances you currently prefer? Daniel: Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three, Joop, Paul Smith and Calvin Klein Me: Why is it that you own more than one fragrance? Daniel: Because I think it is nice to alternate

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Me: Can you please describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics would be if it was going to express your personality using adjectives like dry, warm, crisp

Daniel: Sweet and warm for me Me: Do you own a special scent which has a personal meaning to you? Daniel: No can’t say I do Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? where would you go to buy them? Daniel: Generally I have them bought for me, but I generally just don’t like shopping so don’t know if that will help? Me: It does thank you, do you ever buy fragrance as gifts for people?

Daniel: Number 1 grabs my attention the most

Daniel: No I never return the favour, mean huh?

Me: Thank you for your time could you now write that number down on a piece of paper and hold it so I can take a photograph? Thank you again for taking part

Me: I’m sure you get them some equally nice gifts. Would you be interested in a personalized, bespoke scent made just for you? Daniel: Not particularly I am happy with what is available Me: Now i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to 139

MARK CAPEWELL, 46

Me: Hi Mark, thanks so much for agreeing to be interviewed, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So can I ask why do you wear fragrance? Mark: Main reason is to smell nice Me: When do you apply your fragrance? Mark: In the morning after shaving Me: Do you have any brands which you prefer to use at the moment? Mark: Yeah there is Diesel and Armani Me: Why do you own more than one fragrance? Mark: I like to have a change each day

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Me: Can you describe your ideal fragrance characteristics if this fragrance was to best express your personality can you please use adjectives like dry, warm, sweet

Mark: Well it would be fresh, sweet and charming! Me: Of course. Now do you have a special fragrance which has a meaning to you behind it? Mark: Nope Me: Do you like going shopping for fragrances what stores would you visit?

Mark: I’d like to see advertisement develop it is definitely in need of some rejuvenating and spicing up. I don’t even acknowledge what brand/scent it is any more when I see it in a magazine

Mark: No I detest it. But I do like them being bought for me as presents for Birthday or Christmas, I don’t care where they buy it from Me: Would you be interested in a personal, bespoke scent made just for you?

Me: Thank you very much for taking the time to have this interview with me now if you wouldn’t mind writing the number down on some paper and holding it up so I can take a photo that would be great. Thank you.

Mark: Yes I would to be individual and have my own unique scent Me: Now I am going to tell you a little bit about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it 141

AARON PEACHEY, 22

Me: Hi Aaron, thank you for agreeing to be interviewed today, I will begin by explaining what my project is about, I want to investigate how to make the male fragrance market perform better. There are endless possibilities for innovation and experimentation in the fragrance world. My brief is to research the market, product and technological development, also consumer insight and their perceptions is key to this brief as the consumer will ultimately lead the future of trends and market growth. If you would be able to answer a few questions regarding your views on fragrance and your shopping behaviour. Then after I explain an overview of future recommendations I have developed from research, decide on one which you feel will progress male fragrance the furthest and take a photograph of yourself holding a sheet of paper with the number of the future recommendation written upon it. The interview will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to

you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and the transcripts will be kept on a password protected computer. Both will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. (Pause) So, why do you wear fragrance? Aaron: When I want to smell different from wearing just an antiperspirant and smell better than usual to attract the opposite sex. Me: When do you usually apply fragrance? Aaron: Not every day, some times not for weeks probably only when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going out, bar etc. Me: What brands fragrance do you like? Aaron:I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really know enough about different brands and their fragrances, but I do own Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein Me: So you own more then one fragrance, why is this? 142

Aaron: Yes, the other one was given to me as a present

based around the scent of food. Excuse my appalling attempt at french pronouncing here, chef Philippe di Meo created three broths: Pot au Feu, Pho and Miso, what he did was team up with perfumers to create ‘Eaux Bouillantes’ perfumes which essentially were based around his broths. And then the other concept which involves scent and food is a ‘slimming benefit fragrance’ its a french perfumer called Veld’s whose fragrance Prends Moi which is meant to have slimming benefits because it has an ingredient in it which stimulates feelings of well-being and reduces stress that can diminish the wearer’s likelihood for over eating. So thats another kind of thing which is being discovered with this whole food and scent partnership. Number four, is looking at men’s fragrance advertising (showing examples of men’s fragrance advertisements), whether this is something which needs updating to adverts which entertain and educate in a non demeaning fashion. (pause) So they are my four future recommendations which I think will define the future of male fragrance, so now if you could choose a number of what recommendation you personally would like to see develop.

Me: So would you personally buy yourself more than one? Aaron: Yes. I purchased one and have been gifted others. Me: Would you be able to describe to me what your ideal fragrance characteristics are if the scent was to best express your personality using adjectives such as warm, dry, sweet Aaron: Dry, Warm, more musky and masculine than flowery. Me: Do you have a special scent, one that has a meaning behind it? Aaron: No Me: Do you like shopping for fragrance? where do you go to buy them? Aaron: No I don’t. But if I was going to buy a fragrance, I would go to a department store and smell the product before getting it

Aaron: Number 4 Me: Thank you so much for taking the time out to help me one last thing if you don’t mind writing the number down so I can photograph you. Thank you

Me: Would you be interested in a personal tailored scent made just for you? Aaron: Yes I think would be in to that, that’s basically the idea of wearing a fragrance is to be different but that way it would be entirely unique Me: Next step i’m going to tell you about some future developments of scent and where the fragrance market can go. So the number one is that they are now creating a swallowable perfume capsule, so what in the work’s now is an edible perfume. There has even been one that you can drink. So your skin becomes the atomizer, the potency of the scent is determined by each individual’s body response to temperature, stress and exercise. (pause) Number two is a shift in fragrance authority. So at the moment obviously Europe, the USA and England/ London are the leaders of scent authority at the minute like all the major perfumers are from these areas these are who dictate what your aftershave, etc. smell like but um from research it now appears to be moving to the Middle East, China, Brazil, more exotic locations.So Middle East love rich and heavy, China prefer light and airy and Brazil loves fruity. So these categories are what your future fragrance tastes will be. (pause) Number three is a new fragrance trend which is starting to develop, scent and food, so this is another experimental concept. I have two examples, this one is where fragrance has actually been created 143

APPENDIX 6

JO MALONE LONDON, STYLIST QUESTION & ANSWERS

Each set of research questions was accompanied by a ‘Your Questions Answered’ sheet. As I found them particularly helpful when explaining my intentions for the interview process with the male employees of IJS Global Ltd.

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PILOT TEST - LAURA HARVERSON, 24

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APPENDIX 7

JO MALONE LONDON, KINGSTON STORE ETHNOGRAPHIC RESEARCH WORK ROTA

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APPENDIX 8 FIELD RESEARCH BENTALLS, KINGSTON - Fragrance area situated at the back of the store on the first floor, behind cosmetics and next to hats, scarfs and hosiery. - Men and Women’s fragrance put together, very unclear gender division - No sign of any sales assistants within the area, two female sales assistants chatting at a till, based close to the scarfs. - Brands stream into one, shelf upon shelf of fragrance, Eau de toilettes were next to Eau de parfum. Consumers could easily mistake the types of fragrance. - I was observing covertly to ensure that I’d witness true consumer behaviour. I found a young gentleman’s behaviour intriguing as I observed him obviously deliberating over fragrance options but not interacting with the products. He continued this behaviour for 10 minutes, after which I approached him to fully explain what I was doing, supplying him with ‘Your Question’s Answered’ sheet seen in appendix, and inquired after his consent to use this observation within my report. After which he agreed I asked whether I would be able to take his photograph for visual documentation of this consumer behaviour. See Alex Newbury’s consent forms below, his photograph can be seen in Figure 27. - Sales assistants lack of interest in consumers was evident when I took a photograph in store and no one reacted.

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BOOTS, NOTTINGHAM - My initial observation about the Boots fragrance area in Nottingham was the association to a barricade. Fragrances were positioned behind plastic cabinets with sales assistants standing in front of them two spaces apart. - I felt intimidated approaching the area, and staring at the fragrance through the case. It was similar to Bentalls where there was no differentiation. - Fragrances were in there packaging and not all scents were available to try. - The retail atmosphere I found to be quite hostile and uncomfortable, I would not wish to stand there browsing, even testing the fragrance would be a rushed process. Having to ask the sales assistant to release the perfume from the case I also found to be a negative attribute to the retail experience. However, that observation could be a personal evaluation.

PENHALIGON’S, LONDON -Penhaligon’s visual merchandising is undoubtedly lovely, but what excites the initial interaction is the scent, a concoction of ever evolving fragrance combinations. -The customer service was impeccable, warm and friendly. When they acknowledged that I was ‘browsing’ they left me alone to my devices. -Penhaligon’s offer fragrance profiling service to enable customers to try their own signature scent, the appointment is free and generally lasts from 45-75 minutes. If I had more time available I would have definitely made an appointment. Although I doubt I would have been able to afford the final outcome of my time.

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DIPTYQUE, LONDON - I wanted to visit the newly designed Diptique store situated in Leadenhall Market in London. UK based designer Christopher Jenner has developed a store space which is influenced by english patterning and french luxury. -The store is very small but Jenner has created a cozy retail environment that marries both new and old design details. Exuding an air of highend luxury, the interior embraces its Victorian architecture, and the space’s existing coloured glass and, with oversized library cabinets, furnished with multi-layered classic mouldings, fitted with secret cupboards in English brass, stained-glass fretwork and antique Mirror. - The store environment feels very different to previous Diptique retail spaces. One criticism is that it could be considered ‘over done’ the displays are quite over powering. - There was no other customers in store while I was there which made observation of consumer interaction with the retail environment difficult. Also, due to the small size of the shop I did not feel like I could stand in there waiting, unobserved.

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APPENDIX 9 CASE STUDIES

HOW HAS OLD SPICE REMAINED RELEVANT?

Started in 1937, Old Spice consisted mainly of an aftershave and cologne business. The classic clipper on a white background was a signature of old sailors and their grandfather’s dresser. Procter & Gamble Co. acquired the brand in 1990 and sought to develop a more youthful image whilst keeping the masculine and rugged attributes that were a residue from years of advertisements featuring a whistling sailor with a ‘girl in every port’. The brand had to achieve one of the ‘hardest tricks in marketing: repositioning a familiar brand.’ To set up the campaign, it was important to define clear goals to reach a youthful, and technologically sophisticated target audience. Proctor & Gamble Co. refocused the brand on performance, targeting guys 18 to 34, ditching the sailor motif and launched a new campaign encouraging men to ‘Smell like a man, man’. The humour laden advertising had former

American Football Player, Isaiah Mustafa, directly engage the viewer, succeeding in harnessing the attention of the audience, was the root in rejuvenating the brand’s dated image. The underlying success of the ‘Old Spice Man’ campaign stemmed from a triumvirate of media penetration including paid advertisement, an attractive website, and a highly successful viral campaign. Old Spice has become the #1 ALL-TIME Most Viewed Sponsored Channel on YouTube with 94 million+ views. (Widen and Kennedy, 2010: Online) By adapting to a market that has become increasingly detached from the influence of traditional means of advertising, traditional television adverts got the brand message to a broad audience while the viral campaign helped to put Old Spice into a more youthful spotlight. Old Spice was able to engage a new generation of consumers on their own terms.

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HOW HAS GIORGIO ARMANI REMAINED POPULAR?

Giorgio Armani is a brand which conjures a distinctive look, a subdued, sensual, European kind of simplicity which they apply to their extensive span of products. Since the 1970s, when Armani introduced itself to the fashion market with his unconventional suits and menswear, he has been consistent in his message of easy elegance. The brand expanded throughout the late 1970s and early 1980s, offering a variety of collections in different price points, jeans, undergarments, accessories, and through an agreement with L’Oreal, fragrances and beauty products. Giorgio Armani Beauty introduced Armani for Women in 1982, followed by Armani for Men in 1984. These two scents are part of a long and successful series of fragrances issued by this brand, continuing to a fragrance base of 89 perfumes. The earliest edition was created in 1982 and the newest is from 2013. Bergdorf Goodman’s president told Vogue in 1984.

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‘ You reach into the closet in a rush, and there’s that good old Armani blazer.’ The concept of Giorgio Armani being easy to wear has it seems transitioned to apply to its fragrances as well. Reviews by cformosa4, pseudonym, on YouTube channel Fragrance Talk comments on Aqua di Gio a popular Giorgio Armani fragrance as ‘easy to wear, very safe’ (2012). The choice of the word ‘safe’ gives insight into the consumers perception of the brand. The Giorgio Armani fragrance won the FiFi 2012, ‘The Fragrance Hall of Fame’ Award and Armani Code Sport was a top 5 finalist for the 2012 ‘Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Luxe’ category showing Giorgio Armani’s ongoing popularity. This could stem from the brands reliability to produce casual classics which appeal pleasantly to the mass crowd. These characteristics can be desirable when consumers are faced with the vast, complex fragrance choices presented to them on the market these days.

HOW HAS INNOVATIVE FRAGRANCE BRAND, BLOOD CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN THE CURRENT MARKET? Blood Concept was established fashion designer, Giovanni Castelli and photographer Antonio Zuddas, the brands inspiration for there collection comes from an unlikely source, blood. At the beginning in the Italian perfume house created four unisex, scents based on the four major blood types, A, AB, B and O. I conducted an interview with the founders Castelli and Zuddas via email (2012, see Appendix 2), asking them what inspired this innovative idea? In their reply Castelli and Zuddas expressed how ‘Blood is universal: Blood is unique. We all have blood, but no one of us has the same. It’s inside us, it tells lot of information about us. Each Blood Type was born out of an important changement of our lifestyle.’ Since the first collection Blood Concept has expanded to create the +MA fragrance, a clean and white unisex scent, as well as the RED+MA scent which transitions from white to red, representing lost innocence and

forbidden dreams. Each fragrance incorporates he usage of a dropper system for the application reinforces the medical aspect. The fragrance collection offers a quirky alternative to the everyday scent. Castelli and Zuddas express that, ‘each Blood Type sketches a different identity. The question people should pose facing our scents should be “ Who am I?”’ (2012, see Appendix 2) the emphasis on ‘identity’ and ‘individuality’ appear to be the base of the brands creative drive. The brand has previously mentioned on their website of growing and expanding into areas such as fashion, design, art and communication in the future. The development of a fragrance brand into a ‘lifestyle’ brand is a new concept, as usually ‘lifestyle’ brand fragrances are extensions after the brand has established itself in another product market.

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WHAT IS THE CB I HATE PERFUME CO-CREATIVE PERFUME EXPERIENCE?

Christopher Brosius is the perfumer behind CB I Hate Perfume Gallery, located in Williamsburg Brooklyn, New York. It opened in July 2004, Brosius’s mission stated on his website is to ‘capture every possible pleasant scent.’ Chrstopher Brosius creates scents which are not limited to a single note emphasis like most retail fragrances today. He adds to his own collection of CB perfumes each season which are available to buy through limited supply chains or from in store, each purchase is wrapped in a scroll inscribed with his personal manifesto, written in free verse, which begins: “Perfume is too often an ethereal corset trapping everyone in the same unnatural shape/ A lazy and inelegant concession to fashionable ego.” Brosius’s passion for unique, personal scents lead him to make custom scents for clients. However, it should be noted that on his website Brosius has declared that he ‘will not be accepting new custom clients until further notice’ due to a demanding schedule. When creating a custom scent the process is co-creative, the client tells Brosius what they desire the scent to smell of. Christopher Brosius’s custom blending has to be by appointment only due to the ingredients having to be decided upon by both client and perfumer. The blending stage is a drop by drop traditional process,

so the client is present to smell after each additional accord is added. The point is for the client to possess a scent that smells like them, an invisible portrait of who they are. After which a ‘try on’ period is necessary to make sure the client is completely satisfied with their fragrance. In addition, adjustments could be needed in which case a second appointment would be required. This strategy of co-creation emphasizes the generation and ongoing realization of mutual firm-customer value. CB I Hate Perfume offers a personalized product and a unique experience for the customer. Co-created values arise when a customer is able to personalize his or her experience. I was disappointed to discover from an interview with Michelle Hughes (2013, see Appendix 3), who had visited CB I Hate Perfume Gallery in January 2012, that the service in store did not communicate the brands custom service, describing Christopher Brosius as ‘nonchalant’ and the staff as ‘not that helpful’. CB I Hate Perfume’s proposition of co-creating a product investment can form strong, loyal customer relationships. Yet, this potential could be unachievable if the initial in store environment and service is not satisfactory, as why would a consumer wish to invest their time in a place they do not feel welcomed.

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APPENDIX 10

TUTORIAL RECORD SHEETS To help make the most of my tutorial sessions throughout this module, I completed record sheets to manage my research, and organisation skills. They helped set clear objectives for progress each week.

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TIME MANAGEMENT I found that hand producing my time management struture helped enforce specific dates in my mind, which I was physically able to cross off once completed. This method helped me progress daily to the next objective, as I found the satisfaction of completing a task set in writing to be motivating.

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