FOOD HERO
Sandor Katz
S
andor Ellix Katz’s journey with fermentation began as a child. Growing up in New York City, he developed a penchant for dill pickles, a Jewish delicacy in the area: ‘I just loved that salty, sour taste. I would spend all my pocket money on them.’ But it wasn’t until 1993, when he moved to a commune in Tennessee, that he found himself faced with the age-old agricultural dilemma: surplus produce. ‘It was having a garden, and facing the seasonal over-abundance, that got me investigating fermentation as a strategy for preserving vegetables. I couldn’t believe how easy, delicious and satisfying it was to do, so started seeking information about world fermentation traditions.’
Bacterial beings
From there, his obsession began. And what started as a personal passion soon grew into a career path: ‘My home-experimentations got me invited to teach an annual sauerkrautmaking workshop. One year I missed the workshop, so decided to write my recipes in a self-published pamphlet – Wild Fermentation. This led to a book and evolved into a career of sharing fermentation techniques.’ 102
Sandor hosts fermentation workshops around the world
It was through meeting people at his workshops that Sandor became aware of the misconceptions surrounding fermented foods. He found people were often worried about getting ill and doing it wrong, ‘despite the fact you are more likely to fall ill eating raw fruit than anything that’s fermented’. In fact, Sandor thinks we are worrying about the wrong things altogether. ‘We are bacterial superstructures, with ten times as many bacterial cells than human cells. Bacteria play a role in almost every organ system and functionality of our bodies. It is our frequent exposure to chemicals such as antibiotic drugs, antibacterial cleaning products and chlorine in water that causes the problems, by diminishing the biodiversity in our microbial communities.’ Indeed, it is through ingesting bacteria-rich probiotic foods, such as sauerkraut, that we can start to restore our gut’s biodiversity.
The war on bacteria
Of course, fermenting food is nothing new – people have been doing it, across cultures, since the beginning of time. But what is new is a growing interest in creating and
Words: Emma Winterschladen. Photograph: Catherine Opie
Introducing the ‘fermentation revivalist’ – Sandor Katz has spent 25 years spreading the word about good gut health, before it was cool. He speaks to us here about the ‘war on bacteria’, the joy of live foods and why good bacteria really is so good – for both body and mind.
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consuming live-foods in the West, beyond wine, cheese and beer. This comes after half a century of what Sandor calls the ‘war on bacteria’. ‘Science didn’t know of the existence of bacteria until 150 years ago. Then you had the earliest triumphs of microbiology involving the identification of pathogenic bacteria. And that’s what all bacteria became in the popular imagination.’ It is this fear of bacteria in all its forms that filtered down into food production and eating habits to create a ‘culture of sterility’ that Sandor believes we’re only just starting to break free from. ‘Science is now telling us a much more nuanced story; one that recognises the importance of bacteria.’
Wild Fermentation was first selfpublished in 2001
Gut feeling
Today, an increasing body of research is supporting what Sandor has known to be true for years: fermented foods promote better health. ‘I’ve been living with HIV since 1991, and was always interested in nutritional strategies for health and wellbeing. Fermented foods are not a cure for HIV, but I would say that they’ve been an important part of maintaining my health. Fermentation makes nutrients more available, enhances vitamins and contributes unique micronutrients. The bacteria in live – uncooked and unpasteurised – ferments can improve digestion, immune function, and maybe even mental health. Who couldn’t use help like that?’ This understanding that bacteria may have benefits beyond physical wellbeing is an important one. With new studies looking into the correlation between mental health and gut health, Sandor thinks we’re only at
the tip of the iceberg. ‘It’s been revealed that serotonin and other chemicals that determine how we feel and think are regulated by intestinal bacteria. I’m not a medical researcher, but I hear anecdotal stories all the time that support the connection between live-culture foods and mental health.’
Bacteria in live ferments can improve digestion, immune function, and even mental health
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A culture of change
This interest in the health benefits of live-foods is making its way into the mainstream. Sandor tells me that over the course of his career he’s seen a shift. ‘People are more interested than ever. News about the microbiome, in particular, is raising awareness that bacteria aren’t only vectors of disease; they are beneficial foods. Although people have always eaten fermented foods, it’s the process of fermentation – and often, doing it yourself – that we’re seeing more of.’ And it’s the process of doing it yourself that can often bring so much
satisfaction, but with it – in the eyes of many – a lot of faff too. Sandor disagrees: ‘Many people imagine that fermentation is time-consuming. The actual preparation is relatively simple and quick, then there is some waiting involved, but of course you can do other things while it is fermenting. I find that the fermented veggies make my meals feel far more substantive – not to mention delicious.’
Looking forward
So, what does the fermentation renaissance mean for the future of food? For Sandor, it’s a good thing. ‘More and more live ferments are commercially available, and chefs are playing with fermentation as a tool for creating compelling, unique flavours. The future is bright for fermented foods, and bacteria can help make us more adaptable and resilient.’ For Sandor’s books Wild Fermentation and The Art of Fermentation, along with information on his upcoming workshops, head to wildfermentation.com