7 minute read
Heartland of Australia
from Road Less Travelled
HEADING TO THE Heartland Australia of
Looking to break free of the mundane? Here’s your exclusive guide to an epic adventure right up the guts of Australia
WORDS MICHAEL BORG PICS MATT FEHLBERG, DOMINIQUE BORG & LAUREN GRIGG
Australia is truly the land of adventure, but most of us limit ourselves to overcrowded highways and grid-locked suburban streets for the same crowded camps. Now’s the time to ditch the mundane holiday routine and tackle a truly exciting journey, one that could seriously revolutionise the way you think of your own country, by heading straight up the centre of Australia, through the guts of the Northern Territory.
Arriving in Alice
The true heart of the outback beats around the desert of Alice Springs. One of the most iconic travelling destinations in the country, it’s got all the right ingredients for an epic adventure. While in town, the BIG4 MacDonnell Range Holiday Park has plenty for the kids. When it’s time to explore, visit the majestic MacDonnell Ranges – the striking red desert rocks, picturesque gorges and lush watering holes will dead-set steal your heart. There’s much to do and see here, but activities can be a few hundred of kilometres apart, so allow plenty of time. Visit www.macrange.com.au for more.
Devils Marbles
South of Tennant Creek you’ll �ind the Karlu Karlu, aka Devils Marbles, backdrop to arguably one of the best free camps in Oz. The majestic round boulders of ancient granite seem to emerge out of nowhere having been carefully eroded over millions of years. Here you can weave through tracks to get up close and personal with them too. If you’ve got the time, make sure you spend the night – the Devils Marbles look utterly spectacular at sunset.
Daly Waters Pub
This is a truly historic outback pub. It’s had a checkered history with cattle stampeding through town and the odd drunken brawl between ringers. A good chunk of it is literally written on the walls too, with a few decades worth of visitors leaving mementos behind!
It’s an extremely popular and friendly spot to stop in and visit, though rumours of a ghost named Sarah still haunt staff after dark. But I reckon she’s just trying to get her mittens on the famous 'Crocodile Slider'. Yep, if you’ve ever wanted to taste a bit of croc, Daly Waters Pub is good place to start.
Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve, one of the Northern Territory’s geological wonders
From left: Devils Marbles; Daly Waters Pub and Wangi Falls at Litchfi eld.
Mataranka Homestead and thermal pools
Two hours up the road and you’ll �ind yourself in the quaint little town of Mataranka, one of the �inest natural thermal pools in the country. A quick stroll down a rustic wooden boardwalk from camp leads to the edge of a crystal clear, spring fed swimming hole. If the shimmer of �iltered light through palm tree canopy doesn’t paint the perfect picture, the water temperature sitting at a luxurious 34°C degrees should get the job done. Childfriendly with concrete edges, it has a shallower section down the bottom and a few man-made steps to make access a little easier too.
Bitter Springs
A few minutes north of Mataranka and you better prepare to have your heart stolen all over again. It’s a hidden oasis of natural magni�icence within Elsey National Park that just begs to be adored by the weary traveller. It boasts the same inviting water temperatures as Mataranka Thermal Pools, but is a 100 per cent natural setting save a few wooden step. Mother Nature at her �inest! Oh, and remember the foam noodle, you’ll be �loating downstream for a few minutes of pure bliss. But heed the latest safety advice before you go!
Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)
Nitmiluk Gorge, previously known as Katherine Gorge, is nothing short of mind blowing. Either paddle upstream with a kayak tour or grab an early morning river cruise and learn the stories of the traditional owners of the land. Like the method they used to poison �ish, which made catching them easier when times were tough. Naturally, this place is a real haven for wildlife too. Freshwater crocs can be spotted during the dry season, and the area is closed for swimming in the wet, so always heed the latest advice.
Litchfi eld National Park
Just south of Darwin, a must visit is Litch�ield National Park - an easy day trip, but preferably an
overnight escape. It’s home of the iconic magnetic termite mound, and world-renowned for its towering waterfalls, cascades and serene swimming holes. Wangi Falls and Florence Falls are at the top of the list for a relaxing dip, and if you’ve got a 4WD it’s time to lock it in low-range and explore the weathered sandstone pillars of 'The Lost City'.
Top Tips
Longer distances
Carefully plan fuel stops. There are many fuel stations available, but there’s a lot of blacktop between them too. Consider your fuel range too if you’re towing a caravan or battling a headwind. Also, EFTPOS is generally available, but carry enough cash to cover the bill in case it’s out of action. An obvious one, but make sure you also carry plenty of water on board to keep the heat at bay. And last of all, respect the distance. Two dots on the map might not look far apart, but do the maths and work out the kilometres properly before you take o for the day, and always take maps as back-up in case of a GPS technical glitch.
When to go
The best time to visit NT is during the dry, roughly between May and October. The Top End enjoys warm sunny days and fairly crisp winter nights. Accessibility is at its best during these months, and there are typically waterholes full of the mighty barramundi left from the fl oods.
Staying safe
As beautiful as the Northern Territory is it’s not without dangers. Salt water crocodile encounters are a risk so keep an eye out and only swim at designated swimming signs. Wear enclosed footwear, watch where you walk and check your shoes before you put them on in the morning for spiders.
Must see
The famous Kakadu National ParkAt M is nothing short of gob-smacking and Gunlom Falls (pictured below) was the highlight for me. The dirt road in is rough, though, so expect a bumpy ride! You’re blessed, however, with a massive fl at campsite, wildlife galore and my personal favourite – a gorgeous swimming hole fed by utterly spectacular waterfall. Take the walk up to the top and you’re treated to arguably the best infi nity pools in the country, with mind-blowing views over the park. Back at camp, you’re likely to hear haunting howls of wild dingoes in the distance. It’s Australia at its fi nest.
