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david olkarny
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h e i g h t : 1 m 7 5 / 5’9 bust:
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h i p s : 89 e y e s : black h a i r : black a g e n c y : carrera models
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C O N T R I B U T O R S FOUNDER BRIAN DEAN
CO-DIRECTOR SIDDICK MOHAMED
FASHION EDITOR ALEXANDRA ISAACS
FASHION EDITOR IVICA MAMEDY
PHOTO STYLIST SARAH SENEQUE
PHOTOGRAPHER CHLOE IP
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I N T E R N A T I O N A L
M O D E
DANCE INTO THE SPRING 2012 Sodalite Blue, a classic maritime hue, brings order and calmness to mind. Like an anchor to a ship, this dependable shade works with every color in the palette. Cockatoo, a tactile blue-green, is sure to make your spirits soar. This unusual hue adds a whimsical touch to the palette and will surely make a statement this spring. Margarita, a piquant yellow-green, lifts spirits with its refreshing and stimulating glow. Reminiscent of a blossoming garden on an early spring morning, fragrant Sweet Lilac evokes the fresh scents of summer. This delicate pinkish lilac adds a touch of romance to any wardrobe. Natural versatile neutrals add practicality to this season’s brights. Driftwood, an adaptable blend of beige and gray with a slightly weathered feel, and Starfish, a perfect warm summer neutral, complement all colors featured in this season’s top 10.
For an ultra-bold vibrant look this spring, try mixing Bellflower with Tangerine Tango Provocative Tangerine Tango, an enticing juicy and Cabaret. Combine orange, is a vivacious and appealing refresher to Margarita with Sweet enliven anyone’s outlook this spring. Providing a jolt Lilac and Cockatoo for of energy, Solar Power radiates warmth and cheer. a subtle alternative, or comFanciful Bellflower, a distinct ornamental purple, bine Margarita with exudes uniqueness and creativity. Scintillating and Sweet Lilac and Driftsexy, Cabaret is a sensual and intense rosy-red — wood for a more an excellent practical variation. choice for summer clothing and cosmetics. Solar Power is best juxtaposed with Sodalite Blue. For a safer bet, add a natural neutral like Starfish to the mix.
Source: www.pantone.com
For spring 2012 designers are inspired by diverse influences, showcasing a range of styles and lifestyles, from free and playful and light and breezy, to contemporary classics. Colors likewise reflect these differing moods, encapsulating vivid brights, soft muted tones and funloving pastels. “Consumers look to spring for renewed energy, optimism and the promise of a brighter day,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “They have learned how color can help them alter a mood and provide the vitality and enthusiasm that enables them to experiment with new looks and color combinations.”
The inaugural Vogue Festival kicked off this friday 21st April with a glamorous crowd arriving to hear Burberry’s chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey talk about ‘My influence and Burberry’. Following a rousing, almost emotional video showing the brand’s journey from a small 19th Century raincoat company to the well-oiled global brand it is today, Bailey, who is credited with turning Burberry into such, spoke with Vogue’s editor Alexandra Shulman, giving the fashion fanatics present an insight into how a brand like Burberry works. Considered to be a leader in the digital world of fashion - having pioneered the ‘Tweetwalk’ and collecting 10 million Facebook fans - this ethos is also present behind the scenes, as Burberry has created an internal social network, not unlike Facebook, to connect each and every employee all over the world. “The bigger the company has grown, the more connected we’ve become” explained Bailey. And bigger they certainly are: Bailey revealed that under his leadership, the company have inflated their 200 man team to an army of 9,000, with offices as far flung as Hong Kong and New York, and growing all the time. A new flagship store on London’s Regent Street, which is currently under construction, will be their biggest in the world and will continue the digital theme, potentially revolutionising the retail experience with in-store videos showing the process of manufacture behind certain garments, which are activated when a customer picks up a particular item. Stars fill the front row at Burberry Prorsum autumn/winter 2012 show “I want Burberry to feel welcoming and inspiring, not intimidating or uncomfortable, that’s why we want so interactive”, Bailey explained to an impressed crowd. If one thing became clear throughout the conversation, it was Bailey’s love for his ‘baby’ Burberry, describing it as “an incredibly beautiful diamond that had been trodden into the dust’ in need of “a beating heart” and “a bit of love and care” which he has brought to the formerly ailing brand.
So, he wouldn’t have taken the Dior job if he’d been offered it then? “Wow… ummm… well… that’s a toughy” Bailey improvised when questions were taken from the crowd. “I’m totally content in my role at Burberry and Raf is an incredibly talented designer - he’s going to be a rockstar there”. Glad we’ve got that one cleared up.
Introduced on stage by Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, who described her as one of the most successful models of the 21st Century, she dispensed the following insight into her fiery personality: “Anyone who has been in Natalia’s eye line when she wants you to do something, knows it is jolly hard to get out of doing whatever it is that she asks, and she’s used this talent, along with her profile and the contacts she has made through modelling, to raise huge sums of money for her Naked Heart Foundation.” During the hour-long discussion, the subject of eating and healthy body image quickly came up. The spotlight was placed Herzigova, who was forced to admit that unfairly, she and her model friends were “just born with” their enviable physiques. Cue a comment from Vodianova, who was quick to relate to Eva and added: “I respect my body, my body is my temple”. She explained further: “If I eat like a pig, I am going to feel like a pig. Sometimes I have a huge, delicious five-star dinner with my grandparents with seven courses. In the morning you wake up and you feel like s**t. If I feel like that, OK, I am not going to be able to feel good about myself.”
British beauties Dunn and Cole might have had the English mother tongue on their side for the discussion, but they were quickly out-talked by the Russian beauty Natalia Vodianova.
Source: www.fashion.telegraph.co.uk
The presentation theatre at the Royal Geographical Society on Saturday 22nd April was jam-packed with Vogue Festival attendees craning to take a peek at and listen to what top models Eva Herzigova, Lily Cole, Natalia Vodianova and Jourdan Dunn had to say.
Intellectual model Lily Cole then offered her cultural take on body image ideals, recounting a story about how the people at a tribal dance in Botswana she attended shouted “Fatty! Fatty! Fatty! Fatty!” at each other, later realising that it was a complimentary term and that the locals must have found her own lithe physique very unappealing. Keen to have the last word, Vodianova chipped in with: “C’mon guys, you know it’s better to be skinny than to be fat”, a comment which was met with both surprise and applause. “NHS are fighting against obesity” she continued, “children taken away from their parents because they are too fat - read Daily Mail.”
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Interwoven between the article are the beautiful pictures featured in Cosmopolitan India January 2012 issue. I was a sort of communications-liaison officer between the magazine and the Mauritian industry professionals, helping them choose the model. Laetitia Darche was chosen, and I must point out that I was so impressed by her total dedication to the shoot, her willingness to embody the vision of the team, her enthusiasm and professionalism on set. One of the best models working here today.
(Anu Sumputh, Oriya, Possal by Sweetie Ramlagun, In’Am, Sanjeet Boolell, Veronique Lionnet, Lionnet & Fauzou Ltee, Lida O’Reilly amongst others) rather than buying from foreign shops and brands here. We excel quality wise, no mistake.
The fashion industry here is booming. Many very talented designers are cropping up, making themselves known and are establishing themselves as forces to be reckoned with. It’s all ante up on competition, innovation, partnerships, experience and knowledge. That side of the industry is growing perfectly well, and I firmly believe that the outside world is going to take notice very soon (and has taken notice already!).
Concerning photographers-well here, things are taking a slightly sour turn. Yes, we are extremely lucky to benefit from incredible fashion photographers working here. I’m talking about the likes of Kunal Jankee and the En Mode photographers, amongst many others. But-and sadly, there is a but-many amateurs are declaring themselves as professionals, believing that once you have acquired a DSLR camera this elevates you to the status of a professional. A photographer, after understanding the very foundation of photography, goes on to specialise in some select (even one, at times) fields-wedding, fashion, portrait, advertising (commercial), nature and so on and so forth. Jack of all trades, Master of none. Remember that.
I would like all of you to support this innovation and make the Made in Mauritius label known worldwide, not for resale under different brand names but as a solid identity. That means always choosing to buy a Made in Mauritius label from our local designers
Now if the photographer in question fully acknowledges that he or she is an amateur, or doesn’t have enough skill, that’s perfectly OK, because he or she has stated it. Most of us post photos for fun. We don’t create pages on Facebook
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for photography unless we are serious and demand constructive criticism to help us further build upon our photographic technique. But once this photographer declares he is a professional and (worse) states that he is perfectly capable and has total proficiency in undertaking (paid or free) jobs instead of a true professional photographer, this becomes a problem. And this is a big issue here. I’m working on a list of the who’s who in the photography world here that will be published soon, so that you have a better idea. And concerning modelling? Now that is a major problem. I wrote e-mails, specifying the standards, to help people actively involved in the matter here. I didn’t want to write this at first, hoping that with persistent and continuous effort the problem would go away, but its here. It’s bad. I won’t name drop, but: 1. Payment is still a problem here. I used to think delayed payment was the worst thing, now that thought looks positively naive. Some agencies don’t even pay their models! It’s NOT a fame game. Modelling is not about making you famous, and if that was the reason you entered the industry in the first place, then hit the ground running as fast from the industry as you can. Same applies if you accept to work freely for an agency that in particular circumstances could have paid you (that is, in some cases, it cannot be helped. For instance: models are generally not paid for editorial spreads in magazines. However, for campaigns they are paid big money). Modelling is about the heart. How many beautiful women have graced the covers of magazines around the world and you don’t hear that much about them again? The aim was to create art. Modelling comes from the heart and soul.
in fashion and swimwear modelling (very athletic bodies, which I prefer to the painfully thin variety) would have to be: Height: Above 1m71 Bust: Around 34 inches/ 86 cm Waist: Around 24 inches/ 60 cm Hips: Around 34 inches/86 cm This is not respected. And what’s worse is that there is only so much I can do. I can make the issue known, but if the designers, photographers and other actors in the industry don’t adopt the standards either there is no hope.
4. “Like” contests are making things worse. Sure, they provide great exposure to up and coming mod2. Many ‘models’ working here have to realise that els who have the potential (and measurements, not everyone can be a model. You are the expresaccording to the type of modelling they specialise in) sion of an artistic vision. Not everyone has the but they also drop the standards to an embarrasscapacity to do that, even those that fit the measureing level. It’s not just about a pretty face. You have ments. to work up to and be the whole package. You can’t claim to be a model after someone took a couple of 3. There are different categories of modelling, each pictures of you at the back of your house. You need having their own set of measurements and standto work to establish a reputation, work towards a ards. career, create contacts, sign up to a credible agency For example, a model working in Mauritius (and I with hard, solid contracts. Only then can you claim to adapted the criteria to Mauritius!) specialising be a model.
LOOKBOOK
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- What made you want to start photography? Many things led me to start photography. The superb photographs that I could see on the web made me dream, then I was amazed by the quality of the photos that resulted from my new toy and the prospect of being able to immortalize intense scenes and even create them made me shudder. I had to become a photographer, it was obvious.
- What kind of photos do you like or would you do? Montage very sharp, full of emotions. Real stories in one picture, I can suggest a narrative that the reader is free to interpret. It is not yet the case, but I work strongly in that direction.
- How do you select your models? Mainly on the web, Facebook is ideal for this approach. I favor the models that have “a mouth” not necessarily a pretty girl with a symmetrical face, but rather a person capable of providing an evocative wide range of expressions of all styles.
- In your opinion, what are the qualifications to be a good photographer? Overall I would say a lot of patience, creativity, imagination and be open minded.
-Where do you get your inspiration? The cinema or just in my daily life: driving in my car, I spot places in the queue of a shop I am struck by the expression of a face, I look in the forest trees with the eyes of Snow White or the furniture of my house seems too static and I want to “move”.
-How do you imagine yourself in ten years? In a perfect world, I would just live my passion.
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COLORS
photographer:chloe ip model:amber van der linde a s s i s t a n t : r y a n c h a n make up:malikah beharry
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nasty gal c o l o r s o f t h i s s p r i n g
Talking about fashion, Talking about colors! First, let’s start with the new collection of the American brand Nasty Gal. The fashionistas glorifying the uniforms and vintage originals are in heaven with this collection that we saw lights in bright colors and patterns. And to represent these wonders, the brand uses the beautiful Chrishell Stubbs, who is currently the new face of Nasty Gal.
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lazy oaf
Caution! You’re a trendsetter and you do not really feel like the others, discovers the British brand Lazy Oaf. This London brand is best known for its unique and offbeat clothing that mixes all kinds of crazy colors and graphics, such as fruit, hamburgers or emoticons to a rather surprising result. Lazy Oaf was started by Gemma Shiel in 2001 and is now available in over 150 countries. And no more waiting if you’re looking for originality I suggest you take a ride on the website of the brand most fun in London!
kenzo Being a big fan of the Vans skate shoe I had to write about their latest collaboration with the luxury brand Kenzo. The result is simply stunning with flashy designs and original. Kenzo completely customize the model of Vans Era in something unique. I totally agree with this collaboration that I can already imagine these little wonders with the feet. It’s hype, cool and quirky!
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tom ford spring/summer
2012