Spotlight : Istanbul by Boat

By Tim Johnson

It’s a unique pleasure to glide through the waves, from one continent to the next in the matter of a few minutes – and rarer still to sail to hidden neighbourhoods in one of the world’s greatest cities.

Forming a blue slash that divides Istanbul and a strait that separates Europe and Asia (and connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara), the mighty Bosphorus is plied by dozens of ferries every day, with some 17 million people living along its shores. Here are the best neighbourhoods to explore, by boat.

BYZANTINE PORT: YENIKAPI

One of the busiest ferry docks in the city and the gateway to the oldest part of Istanbul, archaeologists have discovered that Yenikapi was also once a Byzantine port, its waters scattered with undersea treasures, amphoras and other artifacts. Dating back to the 5th century, the surrounding area is also ancient – leave the ferry and walk out to some of the oldest ruins in Istanbul, the remains of walls and fountains and churches, all within a few blocks of the water.

YENIKAPI

HIPSTER NEIGHBOURHOOD: KARAKÖY

Founded as a rough-and-tumble port (and still bustling with boats, which arrive and depart every few minutes), this tightly packed neighbourhood has recently gone hipster. Once gritty and packed with industrial workshops, it got a big boost when the Istanbul Modern gallery opened here 15 years ago. Now its cobblestone streets are lined with record shops that still sell vintage vinyl, barbershops that offer a hot shave, and all sorts of tiny, bustling cafés, plus a few restored hammams, where you can indulge in a traditional Turkish bath.

HIPSTER NEIGHBOURHOOD: KARAKÖY

LOCAL CUISINE: KADIKÖY

The first thing you notice, upon docking in this hub on the Asian (Anatolian) side of the strait is the people – Kadıköy’s streets and lanes teem with shoppers, walkers and diners. Disembark and wander amongst multiple markets, then settle in for one of the finest kebabs in the world. A small, unpretentious Çiya Sofrasi, Chef Musa Dağdeviren, recently featured on the hit Netflix series, Chef’s Table, has dedicated his life to keeping traditional village cuisine alive. He created his menu, which features dozens of different versions of the simple dish, after travelling extensively across Turkey, spending time in the homes of small-town cooks, and in the process, getting their recipes right. Named to the Diners Club 50 best restaurants in the world, they make their spices in-house and source their ingredients from village producers, and their meat from their own farm.

FINEST KEBOBS IN THE WORLD IN KADIKOY

THE SPICE BAZAAR

Just a few blocks from the busy ferry port of Eminönü, and steps from the famous Galata Bridge, the Spice Bazaar has been one of the most famous markets in the world since it opened in 1660. Take one step inside and the fragrance hits you, first, the combined (and stimulating) smell of hundreds of spices, plus dried fruit and sweets like Turkish delight. As you stroll through the crowds, any of the dozens of vendors will be happy to give you a sample tasting of saffron, paprika, oregano, masala, and everything else they have on hand.

SPICE BAZAAR

GATEWAY TO TOP SITES: BESIKTAS

Feeling like a village within this massive city, this port neighbourhood on the European side extends a warm welcome once your ferry docks. Street vendors sell all sorts of savoury treats, and the area is home to some of the best kokorec (lamb roasted with spices on a spit) joints in the city. And from here, you can access some of Istanbul’s most distinctive landmarks, such as the Bosphorus Bridge, Dolmabahçe Palace, and the glimmering Zorlu Centre, with its high-end restaurants and designer shops.

DOLMABAHCE PALACE