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San Juan

PUERTO RICO

Add a few days pre- or post-cruise to explore one of North America’s oldest cities, where culture, history and delicious local treats await.

By Sarah Steinberg

PHOTO COURSTESY OF MICHAEL OXENDINE/UNSPLASH

Puerto Rico’s pulsating capital city has a rich and complex history: Indigenous, Spanish and African influences show up in both its architecture and its fusionforward dining scene. Don’t miss energetic neighborhoods like Santurce, with a plethora of galleries and public art, and the city’s many beckoning warm-water beaches, such as the swimming-friendly Playita del Condado.

FAST FACTS

Currency

United States dollar

Languages

Spanish, English

Tipping

Some restaurants add a gratuity as a matter of course. Otherwise, tip 15%–20% for good service.

Temperature

Average daily high of 86°F

HISTORY

Circa 1000 C.E.

The Taíno people of the Caribbean settle in Puerto Rico.

1493

Christopher Columbus arrives on the island and Spanish colonization begins.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT LINDER/UNSPLASH
1539

Construction starts on the Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a.k.a. El Morro, one of two fortifications built in San Juan to protect the gold-rich island.

1873

Slavery is abolished.

1952

Puerto Rico becomes a U.S. Commonwealth territory.

THE SOUVENIR

A Piece from Lau Pottery Studio

Artist Laura Serrano saw a need for tableware as unique as the dishes created by Puerto Rican chefs. In 2020, she opened Lau Pottery Studio, where she leads workshops and hand-makes speckled clay stoneware with a wabi-sabi influence.

PHOTO COURTESY OF JENNIFER BLOUNT/GETTY IMAGES.

EAT THIS

Mallorca

This sweet, fluffy pastry, named after the Spanish island of the same name, has achieved icon status in San Juan. Enjoy it as the bun in a ham and cheese sandwich or simply dusted with confectioners’ sugar, as purists do.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CLAUDINE KLODIEN/ALAMY.

DAY AND NIGHT

La Plaza del Mercado de Santurce

The streets surrounding La Plaza del Mercado de Santurce, known locally as La Placita, are packed with restaurants and bars. By day, it’s the perfect place to get a feel for a San Juan neighborhood, browse the fresh market produce and seek out a leisurely lunch or libation. Come night, the streets fill up with locals and visitors arriving to take part in a rollicking open-air fiesta.

JOSEPH MORALES/UNSPLASH

IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP…

Visit El Yunque

The only tropical rainforest in the U.S., El Yunque National Forest is a 45-minute drive from town and features 24 miles of recreational trails, jaw-dropping biodiversity (including one of Earth’s most endangered birds, the Puerto Rican parrot) as well as spectacular waterfalls and natural pools for bathing.

PHOTO COURTESY OF NEWSCOM/ALAMY.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Noche de San Juan

Every June 23, on the eve of the feast day of St. John the Baptist, the unofficial start to the summer season, locals head to the beach to party. Tradition dictates that, come midnight, revelers must throw themselves backward into the water at least three times to bring good luck for the year ahead.

PHOTO COURTESY OF LE ONU/GETTY IMAGES.

IF YOU WANT TO CHILL OUT…

BEACH

Balneario del Escambrón

Golden sand and typically calm waters await at this beach conveniently located near Luis Muñoz Rivera Park.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE OLIVE EXPERIENCE.
FLOAT
Laguna del Condado

Take in the view from the Condado Lagoon on a floating deck replete with a gourmet picnic and a bottle of bubbly.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT V. RUGGIERO/UNSPLASH.

CAN’T MISS

Old San Juan

Vibrant hues, ornate balconies, striking architecture — some buildings in Old San Juan trace their roots to the 16th century. Start exploring at the Catedral de San Juan Bautista and then meander through the cobblestoned calles lined with charming bars and criolla restaurants. Feeling snacky? Pop into Café El Punto for a plate of tostones (twice fried green plantains, an island specialty).

PHOTO COURTESY OF DANR1/ADOBE STOCK.

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Piña colada

Practically the international symbol for “vacation vibes,” this fruity libation was reportedly invented in San Juan. If pineapple doesn’t appeal, try one of the many rums made on the island, like Don Q.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FAIRMONT EL SAN JUAN.

WHERE TO STAY

Fairmont El San Juan Hotel

Iconic since the 1950s (when stars Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. crooned for a sophisticated clientele), this recently modernized hotel is a resort-loving vacationer’s dream. Enjoy four gorgeous pools, a huge stretch of beachfront, a casino and countless restaurants and bars, including the upscale Chandelier Bar (check out its stunning Czechoslovakian crystal chandelier) and Chico Cabaret, with live music seven days a week.

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