Slow travel: Warm and Bountiful Auvillar

By Renée S. Suen

A pilgrimage to the Occitanie region and its enchanting villages in southwest France is a must for gastronomes.

Am I dreaming? Can melons taste this juicy and sweet? Or are my senses being reawakened after 16 months of seclusion in my cramped Toronto home? I’ve ruminated over many things, but never about melons, including the exquisite Quercy melons I’m binging on while basking in the fresh country air in southwestern France. It’s my first trip abroad since travel has resumed. I’m in Occitanie/Pyrénées-Méditerranée to attend the annual Jazz à l’Hospitalet Festival in Narbonne. I’d heard rumors about the region’s incredible culinary scene.

AERIAL VIEW OF GARONNE RIVER

© RENÉE SUEN

The fruit is part of the bountiful breakfast spread at my luxury B&B, surrounded by undulating hills patchworked with bright yellow sunflowers that’s not far from Auvillar, a tiny village with less than a thousand inhabitants. I have everything from a saltwater swimming pool to an indoor games room at my disposal, but I choose to while away my morning in my suite’s sprawling, sunny lounge to savour some of the freshest local flavours.

LE FARAT BREAKFAST

© RENÉE SUEN

There are traditional cheeses from local producer La Ferme du Ramier, along with cured meats, pastries and bread, plus fresh sheep’s milk yogurt with homemade preserves.

Though stuffed, I still down fistfuls of tree-ripen Roussillon red apricots purchased from a modern self-serve grocery market near the village’s restored Church of Saint Pierre with an original wall dating back to the 12th-century.

Blessed with well-preserved history and contemporary comforts, this is the rejuvenation I didn’t know I needed until I became immersed in it.

VALENCE D'AGEN MARKET

© RENÉE SUEN

That’s the charm of Auvillar, lauded as being one of the most beautiful villages in France. Famed for its earthenware and goose quill pens, the former port district is a recognized stopover point on the UNESCO-classified Chemin de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle – a historic route that religious pilgrims have been following since the 11th century on their way to Santiago de Compostela. It’s also the kind of place one goes to escape, relax and take things easy. Here, slow tourism reigns.

AUVILLAR'S, PICTURESQUE 17TH-CENTURY CLOCKTOWER

© TOURISME TARN ET GARONNE

“This is a real village. It’s not a theme park or tourist attraction, but where you get the true feel of France,” explains Muriel Pelissier-Chambaron, director of the Deux Rives tourist office, as we roam Auvillar’s cobblestone roads.

She and I are now on an impromptu tour of the Gallo-Roman city, which began as a chance encounter when I asked her for a map and restaurant recommendations. The unexpected hospitality was an incredible welcome after my long hiatus from travel.

TRADITIONAL CHEESES FROM LOCAL PRODUCER

© TOURISME TARN ET GARONNE

Like stepping back in time, we visit Auvillar’s charming community-run museums and pass by the village’s small, picturesque 17th-century clocktower. We stop in at attractive red brick- and stone-lined triangular square, Place de la Halle, where Pelissier-Chambaron points out the unusual circular market hall. Built in 1825 strictly out of wood and stone, it used to sell grains, but today, it’s a Sunday-only fruit and vegetable market. We meet weary hikers resting their tired feet on the roadside with Pelissier-Chambaron stopping to welcome them and offering directions to a shaded picnic spot created for travellers to rest during their pilgrimage.

Celebrated for its unspoiled rolling landscapes and gastronomy, the region of Occitanie was created from the unification of Languedoc-Roussillon and MidiPyrénées. Drinking well shouldn’t be a surprise in this land of vineyards. The area is a global leader in producing wines of origin, including those by renowned independent winemaker Gérard Bertrand, aka the King of the Languedoc, the largest producer of biodynamic wines in the world, from his Domaine de l’Aigle Chardonnay with its white peach aromas to the elegant Clos d’Ora. My favourite is Bertrand’s Clos du Temple, a unique rosé boasting freshness, balance, and scrumptious flavours.

ROSÉ FROM LOCAL WINERY DOMAINE DE THERMES

© TOURISME TARN ET GARONNE

Occitanie is also well known for organic farming, so I explore the superior produce at Valence d’Agen’s sprawling Tuesday-only farmers’ market. I find tables overflowing with plump orchard fruits and handsome vegetables (most of which are a product of the rich soils of Tarn-et-Garonne), next to vendors selling fresh truffles and foie gras.

Knowing how delicious food depends on the quality of its ingredients, I quickly learn how easy it is for gourmands to dine well, and often, in the region. It has 53 Michelinrecognized restaurants all of which are relatively affordable – including the one Michelin star Trama in Puymirol, known for his foie gras hamburger. I’m smitten by how good food and wine is so integral in everyday life. B

ut it wasn’t until my visit to this underappreciated region that I realize the area is inhabited by the friendliest people full of kindness and generosity. I’m reminded it’s possible to find a sense of belonging even when I’m far from home. It shows that, even the staunchest city dweller, like myself, can find comfort in a quaint village in the countryside.